I have my Mom's old White 999 sewing machine from the 80s and I love it. She's an ugly duckling but she's a smooth running workhorse and easy to maintain. I just today picked up this White 534 serger (1985 I believe). I know the looper gear is broken - first thing I checked based on this video - but I only paid $35 USD for the machine, so no big deal. The part is $50 USD here and hoping that will get her running. Will find out when local shop opens if they can do the repair and for how much. In the meantime I will work on cleaning this filthy girl up. My husband said he would just by me a new one - only a couple hundred bucks on Amazon he said - I told him no, thank you though, as I know those will be all plastic and cheaply made. I know if we can get this old solid hunk of steel running again she'll probably out live me.

Thanks very much for your video. Just had a customer bring her machine in with a broken gear, and as the machine has sentimental value she insists on having it repaired. We have managed to source a new gear for AUD $90, so I will be starting repairs on her machine early next week. Would like to say your information was quite helpful, and I like the suggestion of drilling a small hole in the front of the machine to be able to use a pin punch to move the shaft. I will give you an update when (if) I get it sewing again...lol.

I have the same machine, I am in Canada, here is was labeled as White. Mine is a 4 thread overlock I got it new in 1986. I will have to check on this gear problem. Mine has been in storage for about 10 years, will be interesting when I take it out and see. Thank you so much for your great videos and wonderful knowledge

That gear wax looks like ear wax, ewwww! This is such a pretty vintage serger and so light! I love the look. I just saw this machine for sale in a shop and wondered about them. It was branded White, and I have seen them also branded as Husqvarna White, so must be made by Viking. Yup, the wheel was stiff. So great to see what the problem is and how to fix it. I bet we could 3D print these up of some harder material and not be faced with hunting down spares. Polycarbonate (Lexan) is a hard material and heat resistant. I wonder if we can make them out of Lexan? Why can't we fabricate this gear ourselves out of metal? The part number for this is Looper Timing Gear White 11226. This is for the White branded model. I am sure it is the same for Globe, Frister & Rossman, and White Husqvarna as well. Here is the Ebay wording " GEAR, LOOPER TIMING #11226 fits WHITE 503, 504, 523, 534 " Made in Taiwan. On Ebay best price is $48 free ship. Your channel is invaluable to me. So very grateful for all your insights into vintage sewing machines. I am in love with them, as they are mechanical jewels and I see the beauty in their design and mechanisms. Fixing them up is a gift to humanity, as they are so well made. What sort of grease is best for plastic gears?

Extremely helpful video thank you. Same problem with my machine, been driving me mad plus the threadholder has snapped off. Was wondering if repairs were possible but it sounds like its probably not worth it.

Great video. I have a M-34 model. Not sure how to adjust the thread tension. It’s wrinkly on the material. Your guidance is appreciated. Thank you. X

Thank you, very helpful. I found my gear is still good, but the timing is out , so that's why I couldn't turn the wheel easily, as the loopers were rubbing. I found the bolt for lower looper, but not sure where the upper looper is. Could you do video about correct timing , 🙏, 😊thank you

Yup I was given one. Opened it, cracked gear. It'll be fun trying to change it out 🤪

Video chiarissimo e molto utile,grazie!

I live in South Africa and have an Empisal Knit lock M34 and it has a tooth missing in a nylon gear. Watching your video I do wonder if it is worth trying to fix my machine.

Very timely advice. I have been looking at one online today. Would this affect the function of the fabric feed mechanism I wonder?

@InStitches

Жыл бұрын

If the gear has failed completely it affects the entire workings of the machine as it can keep the machine from turning over. Thanks.

Could you please let me know where you can buy the replacement gear for the machine especially in metal form ?

I got this for $10 and the gear is certainly cracked, even worse I broke that oil wick and I would need to replace that I believe or it may not work? Is it worth it for me to try and replace the gear myself? My reasoning is I can’t afford a serger and I saw this broken one for $10 and thought I could fix it. It seemed very taunting

Hi, can you also share where I can find the replacement gear preferably with a ‘reasonable’ price and of course acceptable quality? Thanks.

@tomscrafts

6 ай бұрын

Try a web search for: looper timing gear 12266 I'm only an amateur, so please don't take my word as gospel that it's the right part number! My Globe M-98DF also has a stiff spot, so I'm about to join the party by opening it up for a look.

Ok, Friday afternoon, and a follow up on the split plastic gear removal. First I loosened the clamp screw on the right hand bush and by twisting a flat bladed screwdriver, I managed to move the bush out sideways till it was flush with the inside surface of the machine casing. This gave me about a 4mm gap between the right hand side of the split plastic gear and the inside face of the casing. I loosened all the locking screws on the shaft except for the split gear. Again using a flat screwdriver I twisted it and this moved the shaft and the gear to the right until it touched the casing. I then loosened the screws on the gear and moved it to the left as far as it would go (without moving the shaft). I tightened the screw on the gear again and repeated the process. This moved the shaft to the right in about 4mm increments, so it was just rinse and repeat (in 4mmm increments) until the shaft had moved out enough, then I used a piece of new emery cloth in a pair of Multigrip jaws and just pulled the shaft out the rest of the way. The shaft is difficult to remove because of the burrs caused by the grub screws. I filed the burrs off using a Warding file, then put the shaft in our bench drill chuck and gave it a polish using fine emery cloth. Installing the shaft is a breeze as it just slides in with no effort at all. I have re-timed the machine but I'm still putting it back together, but it looks ok by Mark 1 eyeball...still have to sew it out, next week.

@InStitches

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Thanks for your procedure. I ease the shaft out by loosening the gear, pushing it sideways, tightening it on the shaft again and then pushing the gear the other way. Then I repeat the procedure. The shaft slowly works its way out doing that.

@TheMonopodi78

5 ай бұрын

I did this today on my M-34 but i don't have any instruction to time it.

I too have been looking at one of these. Although as a pro repair man you wouldn’t do it would it be possible to drill a hole in the front face to allow that shaft to come out the front enough to mount a new gear? I’m a machinist so it doesn’t faze me to do that.

@InStitches

Жыл бұрын

I think drilling a hole in the front, even as a professional repair person is acceptable if it's done tidily. Maybe a little plastic bung could be used to cover the hole. I have plenty of these machines in the junk pile so I'll take a look at that option some time. I'll post a video if I do and you can see the results, however I'm not a machinist so it will likely be done with a hand held drill :) Thanks.

@tonyray91

Жыл бұрын

@@InStitches Yes a bung would be good, it could be 3D printed. It looks like you will need to drill through the front face at an angle. Once you have marked the location, centre punch or use a 1.5 mm or so twist drill to aid drilling. When going through with the final drill, start perpendicularly to the face until you are confident that the drill will not slip when moved to the correct angle. WD40 is a good lubricant for aluminium. I’m not sure what size you will need to clear the shaft or how thick the case is but you might find a step drill will do a nice job.. At least you can practise on that graveyard model.

@InStitches

Жыл бұрын

@@tonyray91 Thanks for the info.

Hi, have you got a thread holder for an M34 Globe..?? If so I would be interested… Regards, Mark

@InStitches

Жыл бұрын

Hi. Yes I do. You can contact me via email. Thanks.

@maxwang2537

10 ай бұрын

@@InStitches I also want one, or two. Where can I find your email please. I looked at the channel but didn’t find it. Thanks.

@InStitches

10 ай бұрын

@@maxwang2537 Hi. I have them in stock and you can email me at info@institches.co.nz. Thanks.

Through the upper looper opening there is enough space and a shallow enough angle to give good access the top of the gear shaft . Using gentle impact you can drive the gear shaft beyond the upper looper balance piece. Next, bring the upper looper to its lowest position and remove the pin holding it (2 screws). Now it should be possible to remove the upper looper and the balance piece. There is now enough space to easily remove the upper looper pivot bush (2 screws) and use its opening to finish driving the gear shaft with gentle impact. Reassembly is just a reverse process and no adjustments are required beyond simply pairing the components without play or bind. This method should make the job much faster and not require drilling.

@gwenarcidiacono2096

2 ай бұрын

Thanks, copying these instructions for my Fitter son to see what he can do 😊

@nickrobinson9629

2 ай бұрын

​@@gwenarcidiacono2096 if it helps. You can remove the upper looper shaft as the first step and have even more room to start on the gear shaft through the upper looper opening. But that isnt necessary and it can be a little tricky to push the pin beyond the chassis. My comment mentioned that no additional settings are changed with these steps. But the job itself still requires setting of the upper and lower looper timings. If they know how to set those, the job should be very achievable.

greetings. I've just pulled my M34-8 out of storage and yup, handle locks at a certain point. So going by your very helpful vid it's munted. Very disappointed as it was a little beaut I bout 2nd hand in early 90's. Is there anywhere that might like it for parts - reluctant to send to landfill. I understand that as you say, you have a graveyard full of pre-loved machines, but is there anywhere I can donate it for parts. I live in the windy place. Cheers and thanks for the vid - really helpful.

@InStitches

9 ай бұрын

Hi. Unfortunately these machines generally fail the same way so it makes it difficult to make a good one from two, therefore they are not much use as parts except maybe the throat plate and blades, motor and foot controller (maybe needle bar and loopers). Not sure who would take it or want it. You could try Trade Me at $1 reserve or scrap it at a metal recycle. Thanks.

@robyndebird6135

9 ай бұрын

@@InStitches thank you. Good suggestions

This video is great. Well made and well explained. Thank you very much. I have two of these as a non-sewer (both bought as faulty or condition unknown but both fixed - I thought!). The reason is, exactly as you said, they are beautifully made! One question for you, is it true that the ones with good timing gears, and without other problems, will never have the ‘tight spot’ when turning the wheel by hand? In other words, such symptom surely means a problem somewhere? Thank you.

@maxwang2537

10 ай бұрын

I think you said that at the beginning.

@InStitches

10 ай бұрын

If the machine has the plastic looper driver gear, it can split at any time causing this issue. I have seen the odd model like this with a metal gear, in which case would last for a long time. Thanks.

@maxwang2537

10 ай бұрын

@@InStitches Thanks. My both machines have this symptom. Now opened one up, no surprise - exactly as you predicted - a fairly badly cracked gear. Like some of your clients, I’m planning to replace it no matter the cost. One thing is, I need to make sure I will make all the relative timings right. So is there a good video from you or somewhere else that can be used as a guide when putting things back? Otherwise the only way I can think of is taking photos and videos of the key bits before pulling it apart. But really the little machine and its mechanics are so delicate that the potential of failure makes me a bit nervous!

@InStitches

10 ай бұрын

@@maxwang2537 The key is to take note of the looper positions prior to loosening anything. From memory, I take the needle bar to bottom dead centre and take note of the looper timing from there. Always goes back together well when you do that. If you email me, I can price the gear for you. Thanks.

@maxwang2537

10 ай бұрын

@@InStitches that’s great. But sorry where I can find your email? Would you mind putting it here? Thanks!

@taniawheki5418 0 seconds ago Hi thanks for the video. Mine had been sitting in my shed, I was just about to sell it then tried it out but gear wouldnt turn so I took it apart and saw the crack. Was very educational. Recycling bin it goes, can’t be bothered fixing it.

Hello please Can l Ask you ??

Drill a hole at front on scrap machine to push shaft out. If it works it saves machine.