Interesting video. Having spent 40 years on the back side of a Stihl, the first thing I noticed on your chain was the blunt tips of the teeth. Second, although more difficult to judge, was the apparent difference in length of the teeth from one side to the other. A general rule of thumb is whenever you can see or feel the tips losing that sharp point, stop and give the chain about three strokes per tooth. Make a serious effort to keep the teeth the same length to prevent sawing in a curve. The long side will always cut faster. Good luck and please use your safety equipment!!

Lesson: Don't loan out your chainsaw.

You still have a lot to learn about filing.

I guess I’m part of the 2 %. When I sharpen a saw with nothing more than a round file I get big flakes of dust and it cuts like butter.

You need to use a 3/16” file not the larger 7/32 or 13/64 file. That is smaller .325 pitch chain on the stihl 250. Smaller tooth profile needs smaller diameter file. Also set up a saw buck for cutting mill ends to keep you from sawing the dirt.

You been hitting the ground with that chain you rounded the cutting point on the teeth. Do not hit the ground or dirty logs it dulls chain fast.

I can see the chain's blunt from here!

Wouldn't it help to secure the bar and use the handles on the sharpener?

Files are only to be against the tooth when cutting. When drawing back, no pressure is on the file so it's not wearing the file.

I put the chainsaw in a vise. It makes sharpening easier using the 2-in-one sharpener. You can press down lightly when sharpening.

I bought a cheap electric dremel sharpening tool and wow did it work awesome, took me 5 min so sharpen and it made a world of a difference compared to my file which I was probably doing incorrectly.

I just put a new chain (Oregon, so not as hard of steel as the Stihl chains) on my 1972 Homelite after restoring it and am getting set up to cut a few cords of wood given to me by a friend clearing his land. I hadn't considered what you detailed here when sharpening my chain but I'm glad I happened upon your video because now I'll know what to keep an eye open for when I do have to sharpen it.

You used the wrong sized file.

I just ran across your video. As a retired STIHL tech I'm always like watching sharpening videos. I don't file ar grind out the gullet. That is the strength of the tooth. The file, or grinder, should only sharpen the top plate and side plate. plate

Are there any tel tale signs when to replace the files?

The first thing that I would do is get rid of that clunky sharpening tool and just use a file. Also I saw you or one of your guys going back and forth while filing the tooth. Always file the theeth one way only and that's starting with file handle close to the engine and pushing towards the tip of bar. Never file towards the engine!! Your eyes are your best guide for sharpening your saw and you obviously won't learn it in a day but once you learn you will never take your chain to have the shop sharpening it and will never use one of those crazy guides. Good luck!

Thank you for sharing this, I have the same sharpener which was an improvement from just using a rat tail file. I have a small STIHL for around the home and upgraded to the STIHL easy-sharpener which was an improvement from just using a rat tail and small bastard file. Now I realize I was not putting quite enough downward pressure and also better understand what the profile should be now, thanks to this video.

You don't need that dumb thing get a stump vice and a reg file

I'd use a 3/16 file and mabey not do so many strokes and follow the angle of the teeth and it should fill smooth....... best thing is to just go buy the regular 3/16 file with the handle and a practice

Not enough chain left

what size is the file

How does this video have a million views and no comments?

The paint and words on your bar says a lot..

You nailed it. I watched another video where the guy says "pull up". Well guess what that will do, right, eliminate the curve.

I’m amazed that you haven’t had a serious accident with your chain in such poor condition. You also need to elevate the pitch to the correct angle when sharpening your chain, no matter what method you use 👍

Thank you for the information. Good info.

I too had that problem at one time sharpening my saw until I met one of my buddies and he was a lumberjack and he showed me how to sharpen it now they sharpen all the guides out. I don’t but he showed me how to sharpen my saw. He told me he been shopping saws for 25 years and his daddy showed him how to do it so I guess I’ll take his advice and I did take his advice. Let someone who sharpens 20 or 30 times a day and they do it fast too.

Thanks ,been having problems for ages,let's see what happens now👍🤞

Cheers fella a good help😊

I've used a Stihl sharpener for years. They keep your teeth sharp and raker height correct in the same motion. I use a c-clamp on the bar for stability when sharpening a saw on my tailgate or a stump in the woods. You're measuring tool should be the longest length you cut. Drill holes in your pvc pipe at any shorter interval you cut then run a zip tie through the hole to measure shorter cuts.

take a flat file and hit those rakers a couple times. makes the world of difference.

You are sharpening it wrong

Just got off the ladder(yeah I know better) topping the rest of a tree for the bird houses to sit on. Now I need to find someone who can tell me why my saw cuts to the right. About two inches on a 12 inch cut. I sharpen my own. Cheers

@kerftools

7 ай бұрын

You’re right teeth are taller than your left teeth. Sharpen all teeth to an equal height = straight cut.

The file guide has two handles. If you put two hands on it you'll have an easier time putting force in the correct direction. I've found them to be ok, but people tend to not look at what the tooth looks like since they were using a guide. You know which shape it should have, and the guide can get you there, but if people just file without looking you're gonna file your teeth into little recliners.

You are right that the gullet needs to be filed across straight. However there are several other problems with that chain. All the teeth need to be the same size or only the tallest ones actually cut. This chain has some taller and some shorter (more worn). File them all to the same size (that of the most worn tooth). The depth gauges have all been filed down way too much. Now the chain will try to bite in too much bogging down the saw and slowing the cutting process. Several of those teeth have seen dirt. The top corner of the cutting edge is rounded over. That matters. It is the edge that actually does the cutting. If rounded, it wont be a sharp edge that contacts the wood. It needs to be sharpened past that point, and then all teeth down to the same point to match. This chain has already been ruined and will bever cut well again. Its time for a new one.