Hey bud, I'm brand new to the motorized bike scene, I've been wanting to put an engine on my mountain bike but could never seem to find the time. Then my best bud shows up at my house with a mountain bike with a bbr 66/80. It is the coolest thing I've seen😅. I'm a small engine mechanic so maintenance won't be an issue. In all of my 2 strokes I use Amsoil 40:1. It's crazy I'm 49yrs old and just got into this hobby, any sorry for the long comment just want to tell you your knowledge on these engines is awesome. Keep up the awesome work bud

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

Thanks. I glad you find the hobby enjoyable.

Absolutly great video!

Great video well explained.

I modified one of these engines awhile ago and got some decent power out of it. Expansion chamber exhaust carb tuning better plug and wire as well as making a thinner head gasket from an aluminum can and setting squish distance. Ended up with 160psi of compression after milling the head down slightly as well. The thing would rip but the power was pretty hard on the bottom end.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

Heck Yeah. Thats what I did with these engines. They produced a good amount of power, but ive found that porting is what really does the trick.

Great vid! Thank you!

Thanks so much man this helped so much

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

6 күн бұрын

@@Ebartcustoms thank YOU. Your support means a lot.

For back pressure just straight pipe the stock exhaust pipe

I bought the cheapest 80cc kit from ebay that I could find. That was 5 years ago. I've only ran used motor oil as a two cycle oil and did nothing to the engine but install and ride. I now have about 4,000 miles on it. Around the 3,000 mile mark, the wrist pin bearing gave up. I ended up replacing the wrist pin, wrist pin bearing and piston and reused the original cylinder. Those parts were about $15. I'm not recommending used motor oil, but it's saved me probably hundreds of dollars Vs. buying 2 stroke oil.

@jaredreck882

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing

great video i didnt know that these engines can be this badly made im definetly gonna check all those things on my 100$ 80cc engine before i start it for the first time

ive never had an issue with the stock exhausts blowing gaskets whether modified or unmodified. regardless good video!

@loud.p500

9 ай бұрын

my bike isnt even done its second tank of gas and its already blown its exhaust gasket lol. its not really big enough to let a noticeable amount of air through, but my engine gets covered in oil

@lntegrate

9 ай бұрын

@@loud.p500 damn that ain't good. I'm mainly talking about them blowing head gaskets, I've never had that happen. I had a cylinder head crack and literally split in half but never EVER blew a head gasket

@alecmesa7563

8 ай бұрын

Same here. My bike has been using stock exhaust and original exhaust gasket for 3 and a half years with no issue.

@lntegrate

8 ай бұрын

@@alecmesa7563 seems like its just very on and off for people. it either works or doesn't aha

when you said about the pistion ring you wanna take it of and Preap? them what that mean ? sandin them down ? 1:48

My son will love this ✌️🤙

Very well explained..... I followed

Just wanted to share some of my findings: Another good plug is the Bosch wr8ac or Champion l86c or rl86c. From an air cooled vw beetle engine, they never get hot and last forever. Cutting the baffle out of the muffler and running 18:1 castrol 2t snowmobile oil on the first richer setting has proven beneficial in my experience. Spraying some penetrating oil down all your cables will help them be more snappy. Using 3/16 fuel injection hose with nice clamps will prevent fuel lines leaking or cracking. Putting nyogel in your magneto connectors will waterproof them and taking care to make sure your carb is level horizontally will save you from a bent float later on.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for the info, man. I made this video a while ago and ive learned alot since then, so im planning on revising a my videos and this is definitely one of them.

For all your motorized bike needs, helpful info, build guides, etc, visit the AMB Garage Reddit page at www.reddit.com/r/AMBMotorizedBikeGroup/

This was a great video! From a mechanical standpoint you had everything spot on! When I first got my engine I could tell that it had never seen gas or even oil! The inside of the engine was bone dry except for just a few dabs of shity Grease on some of the main points but the cylinder, piston and rings were bone dry!!! I think that's absolutely crazy to ship an engine out like that with absolutely zero lubrication.... No wonder people get them and then they just blow up within a mile. I think a lot of people just don't understand how engines work and what they need. I also did some of the things that you showed. I immediately replaced the head with one of those nicer solid aluminum high compression ones, right off the bat you can see how much better the mild aluminum one is. The cast one is complete garbage! I also got a better magneto and that was the second thing I checked, the spindle was rubbing the magneto extremely hard on one side so when I put the new one on I centered it up. I also took and lubricated the clutch a little bit as well after installing a better carb.... That's another thing I'd recommend that I didn't hear you say was a better carburetor, the ones that come with the engine are really simple and look like they wouldn't produce much flow at a high RPM. The stock muffler is complete trash as well, I'm going to be welding up a expansion pipe for the little motor! I bet just by changing the pipe alone you probably can gain 10 mph minimum. Putting a pipe on 2 cycles really makes them haul serious ass!!

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

3 ай бұрын

Thank you very much for watching. I completely agree. That is why I make these videos, to help people. As for the carburetor, the stock one is usually satisfactory for most riders, but especially after you do a few mods, youll definitely want to upgrade that carb to something like a Nibbi PE19 or a VM18. As for the exhaust, you are completely right. Even a decent pipe will double your power compared to stock. lol.

@eriklittlebigg7440

3 ай бұрын

Q1q+qqaa@a@

Hey, nice video man. Additionally as a #6, these engines pretty much all come with metal flakes scattered inside and out, its best to clean them out completely with some kerosene or gas. A #7 is the crank bearings come with the metal shields still installed and should* be removed which requires a full engine disassembly unfortunately.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the support and additional info. From the countless engines I’ve dealt with, none of them have had metal flakes inside or metal shields. I’m in the process of a second “10 necessary mods” video, so I’ll definitely make sure I include stuff like this.

@trenthighvoltage

10 ай бұрын

"crank bearings come with the metal shields still installed and should* be removed" Metal shields only removed, on the inside (facing the crankshaft), not on the outside side.

@DylanGoebel

10 ай бұрын

Look at any name brand manufactured 2 stroke crank bearings and you'll never find a bearing shield on them. @@trenthighvoltage

@thirdeyesurvivor3886

8 ай бұрын

Why would you remove the metal shield? Is it cause it can pop inside the engine?? I think this is what happened to one of my old engines as it started making a rattling sound and that sound started getting worse and worse until it fully blew and I found what looked just like a bearing shield twisted up into a ball inside my engine. Destroyed the whole thing.

Ey AMB, nice video. The motor usually tuns stock, Just poorly. Like 20 mph max and no torque. The aftermarket head aswell as the compression fix makes a huge diference.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Yeah. For some reason, this one didn't run out of the box, but was notified that it was a bad batch, and I got a partial refund. The aftermarket heads (especially the CNC heads) definitely provide great power for a bolt-on mod, but for all of the engines I've built, a performance head is never "necessary," unless it is damaged or faulty from the factory.

@Tazeu1225

Жыл бұрын

It shouldn’t be doing that you should atleast see minimal torque and acceptable top end power it sounds like you might have a air leak somewhere possible the top end gasket releasing air and not holding compression

At-At! Thanks for sharing.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Sure thing. Thanks for the support

good job buddy great informative video I was skeptical at first glance because of your age but you impressed me and taught me something thanks

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

Thanks. I'm learning alot in the hobby and love to help others with info that wasn't readily available when I started. In the near future, I'm going to be uploading a few more information videos (include a reboot of the necessary mods video), so watch out for those. Also, I recommend the Keagan Hache KZread channel. He also has great videos on these little bikes.

thx for the Vid

Hello, nice video but you never mentioned exactly what prepping the rings involve. What did you do to prep the rings?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

7 ай бұрын

Look in the description. I have many links and sources in the description. You can also check out my reddit post on the subject: www.reddit.com/r/AMBMotorizedBikeGroup/comments/10emfkp/absolutely_necessary_mods_for_your_engine/

How can I measure the squish gap and what’s the best way to remove material?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

In the description of this video, I have a few sources whoch include an LA Hover video with a time stamp of the proper way to measure squish gap as well as how to deck the cylinder.

Great vid, thank you. You mention a silencer for the mz65. Any recommendations? Thanks!

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Ай бұрын

This one works great. www.amazon.com/BADASS-SHARKS-Motorcycle-Exhaust-Muffler/dp/B07YZ74PGM/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0MfF8_e1cR0j2ztcKi4OEKXFRrWkEM3Gx-LlZlr6dEaeIcKoXEHXHM9Ft6JGi9OoMQ_ojq2YB6AI5pKimpXOJxZ_Dwy1F7G6mj0BytUla0XY4K9QYzvMaB8-w-a3pLD77Q_aHnx9EV1oEC0HYgPe54mPagnh3UYizShLWetDsLvMQdpu0D9Qaphi3vIOiYJ1dhBEUYfVOlKW-MsQBGLqfHzUDUFdP3FHaA4gR2o6flecdNll6kpeTE1arfSFe2A1fXR3yPQqko_H2BOZsnozzHW_OSBPB-8hYwFiIuTvhLc.8-ZHoqpMn6Cub1BxkVaDtzQlt5yZ_o8jlwZcRrs94p0&dib_tag=se&keywords=22mm%2Bsilencer&qid=1719004186&sr=8-2&th=1

@MikeXwolf

Ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 awesome, thank you!

Please make a video explaining further and showing us how to address issue #5 regarding squish gap. Thanks. ☺️

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

If you look in the description, there is a video from LA Hover that I have a link to, as well as a time stamp as to when you can find a great in depth tutorial in that video. I just feel that I couldn’t make a better tutorial than his, so I wouldn’t even try. Lol.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the support BTW

@Cooldude-tm5rs

10 ай бұрын

Basically shave the cylinder head down so that the gap is smaller and the piston makes more compression

I know you say the white wire is pointless, but couldn’t it run a front light if I chose to put one on? Or would it drain too much of the energy for the spark plug?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I don’t know if I was using the right headlight, but when I tried using the white wire to power it, the engine barely ran and did not accelerate at all and it seemed as if there was not nearly enough power supply to light headlight enough to even make itself useful. Lol. I don’t know if you would have better results, but it seems that most sources agree with my results. I was using a 6v headlight and the engine would barely run. Even if the 6v headlight had been fully powered, they are not very bright at all and aren’t very useful for night riding. To actually have a useful headlight, you’d have to use a 12 or so Volt system, which Will DEFINITELY NOT run off the white wire.

@itsmethatsit.2934

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 yea I figured as much and have heard the same things but I’ve never tried it myself. My first build I just threw a battery powered light on there and that lasted me half a ride in the middle of the night. Nothing like flying past cornfields able to see nothing more than glare off the road.

Could you use the white wire to power small bicycle lights? Using the frame as an earth?

@cockshoemagoo2

Жыл бұрын

.5 Amp and 7v

@jaredreck882

2 ай бұрын

I want to know this too

Good video bro

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thank you

I probably have around 500 miles on my Zeda engine. When i bought it I didn’t do any of these things. Right now I can hear a rattling sound like maybe a few tiny pieces of metal are inside the engine or something. It runs fine tho. What would you recommend I do to fix this and prevent any issues down the road. I hear you can take the cylinder off, pour some gas inside the engine and swish it around to clean out any debri from inside the engine. I have a dremel too. I dont have any experience with port work and the last thing I want to do is destroy my engine. It runs fine right now and I want it to last a long time.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for the question. Sometimes, the engine sounds like there is stuff in there, but if you didnt clean up the casting flaws before hand, there is most likely debris in there. I would remove the cylinder, check for scoring and remaining casting defects of the cylinder, and then pour gasoline into your engine to remove anything that might be down in there (I've also been told E85 or diesel works better than gasoline, but ive never tried it). If there is still casting flaws (such as little metal pieces sticking out from the ports), you can use a dremel and either a sanding bit or a carbide porting bit or a standard file to remove them. If the cylinder is scored enough to fit the tip of your fingernail into the score mark, then youll need to replace the cylinder and piston rings, but if there is visual wear, but you are only able to feel minimal bumps, or none at all, you can reuse the cylinder and piston rings and reinstall everything as normal. KEEP IN MIND: When you do ANY work the the ports, or even remove the cylinder, it is recommended to file down the edges of the ports so they arent jagged and/or sharp.

@thirdeyesurvivor3886

8 ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 alright im going to take the engine off my bike and take a look inside, clean it out and file down the edges around the ports. Thank you for the advice I will let you know how it goes.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

8 ай бұрын

Cool cool. Good luck.

Great video

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for all the support.

@Mike-gi6ef

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 You're welcome bro i love your videos about 2 stroke little engines

hi i live ijn a city that mostly hills every 2 blocks so i need a exhaust with more power what do i get

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

4 ай бұрын

Here is an exhaust guide: kzread.info/dash/bejne/jHaOuJKxiKnQnLA.html (on Reddit) www.reddit.com/r/AMBMotorizedBikeGroup/comments/16oilc9/how_to_choose_the_right_exhaust/ For torque, really any upgraded exhaust will give you A TON more torque and power across the board. I reccomend doing this mod especially, but I highly reccomend tuning your carburetor and gearing your bike properly when doing this mod.

Hello, nice video. How do you measure a squish gap? How did you measure your squish gap to know it was 3mm?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

11 ай бұрын

I have a link in the description of the video that explains how to properly check squish gap. All you really need is a caliper (or a VERY accurate measuring tape) and some solder.

@jozefsk7456

10 ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 how about a platicine toy clay - just without sparkplug turn over the engine, then remove the head

I was wonder what do you guys think of the banana expantion chamber?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

3 ай бұрын

The bannana pipes dont really perform any differently then the stock exhuast. In fact, you want more power than the banana pipe, simply remove the cap off the stock exhaust or drill holes in it for more flow. If you want to get an exhaust, I HIGHLY reccomend at least getting an MZ65 clone. Here is an exhaust guide for you: kzread.info/dash/bejne/jHaOuJKxiKnQnLA.html I also highly reccomend listening to the performance upgrade discussion on the most recent episode of me and Keegan's podcast (around the 20 minute mark): kzread.info/dash/bejne/iIWpm6t9ctmxZtY.html

thumb ups good video

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the support

How fast should it go with only exhuast modification

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Speed COMPLETELY depends on the gear ratio and wheel diameter, but if you upgrade your pipe to a fat belly, such as the MZ65 style pipes, your bike will run like a scalded dog, even if it ran good before. You’ll not only get TONS of bottom and mid RPM torque, but you’ll also gain a good amount of high end RPM.

please give me 80 cc all parts name

If you do this right out the box chances are youre going to mess something up while “ inspecting” your new engine and you wont be able to remember what you did to isolate the problem

How do I get my motor to quit running so high

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I’m guessing you’re talking about the idle being too high. On the left side of the carburetor, there is a (usually) flathead screw. To lower the idle, loosen this screw SLOWLY while the engine is running, and to raise the idle speed, tighten it a tad. When making these adjustments, make sure your engine is running and you are making the adjustments SLOWLY, as turning the idle screw too quickly can result in inaccurate results. You can decide for yourself what a good idle sounds like, but I personally set it as low as possible, so it still idles strong, but if it went much lower, it would die. If this doesn’t really work, and adjusting the idle screw doesn’t do anything to the idle, you might have an air leak. I’ve also found that having a leaking head gasket and/or exhaust gasket can also cause the engine to run rough and/or cause the idle to go weird.

you didint explain anything about how to take material off the top of the cyclinder

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

4 ай бұрын

I put all the needed info and video guides in the description. Though, here is the way I do it: kzread.info/dash/bejne/c6ehmtdtcrzMqtY.html. You can also use a belt sander, a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, etc.

I found a ton of the “cylinder defects on the exhaust and intake port, I’m going to use a dreamer and grind it off

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

9 ай бұрын

Sounds good, though, make sure you don't remove too much material from the top or bottom of the ports.

Winging it pretty strong there. Consider researching the topics and offer a bit more than 'surface depth'. Immediate reaction advice that held well thru to the end.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

7 ай бұрын

Yep. I definitely need to revise this video. Mainly cause there is a LOT of things I know now that I didnt before. Not that much of the info is downright bad, but I would definitely say things differently.

For what is the white cable is this an power Output?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

The white wire is supposed to be a power supply, however, its wired directly to the ignition system, so if you plug anything into it, would override the ignition system and the engine wouldn't even run (what happened when I attempted to plug in a little 5v light).

@dreaclassa3703

9 ай бұрын

oof .-. but thx for the answer@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

ive built a few motorized bike before and nevenr done these checks, u shouldnt have any issues but these chinese things can be sketchy. the bt 100 and bt80 are especially good and dont usually have any casting imperfections.

@marcusprince3999

11 ай бұрын

Where do you find one of these motors that isn't Chinese. I've been told that they all are?🤷‍♂️

@SuperGrapeAp3

10 ай бұрын

@@marcusprince3999mines coning from cali🤷🏾‍♂️

@marcusprince3999

10 ай бұрын

@supergrapeap3312 Ok. Well most of Cali gets them from Chinese manufacturers, Lol.🤷‍♂️ If you find out otherwise, let me know.🙏

900th Subscriber!!

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

9 ай бұрын

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

@voltage_rc6786

9 ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 hell yeah man!

@voltage_rc6786

9 ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 just ordered a minarelli 2 stroke kit with a ported piston and a majority of heavy upgrades from smoklic!

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

8 ай бұрын

Sorry. I didnt get a notification of your comment. I hope your bike turns out nicely. That is a BEAST of an engine and you cant really go wrong with ANYTHING that has Smolik's name on it. Just make sure you use a proper minarelli exhaust and carburetor, and youll most likely need to upgrade the cylinder head so it doesnt overheat (you can use pretty much any CNC chinadoll head).

@voltage_rc6786

8 ай бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 heck yeah!

3:08 "The real important thing here, is this white wire, which is not important at all, so i just cut it off." 😂😂😂😂 couldn't have said it better myself.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

10 ай бұрын

LOL :)

Kick Ass Video!

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

7 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching. For better information, I recommend checking out the newly released "Dem Bike Boys" Podcast: kzread.info/dash/bejne/pWGmxLCOgpuum7Q.html

What oil ratio do you run

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I personally use full synthetic mx premix at a ratio of 40:1, and I've NEVER had an issue

@Gavin-oq5nl

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 is it ok to run 50:1 echo red armor oil? That’s what I use runs extremely clean and keeps he carb clean is that cool?

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

@@Gavin-oq5nl If you havent had any issues with it, its fine. However, you may notice a slight increase in performance and a large decrease in engine wear if you mix your fuel yourself using a 40:1 mixture with full synthetic oil. Youll notice it costs a LOT cheaper too, as well as being better for your engine (Aproximetly $5 - $6 per gallon compared to $40 a gallon with the Echo Red Armor stuff).

@cockshoemagoo2

Жыл бұрын

They say 20:1 in the manual

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

@@cockshoemagoo2 whoever made those manuals smoking the good stuff. For any motorized bike, anything richer than 32:1 will foul spark plugs and clog the carb and anything leaner than 40:1 will run the risk of not properly lubricating the engine.

Hey just so people know what you're talking about the pin you pulled out is the bucking bar the piece that's in the cover is the clutch cam nice video though thanks

That white wire. Is your 6v wire for lights guys just fyi

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

8 ай бұрын

Yes, your right, but the wire draws power STRAIGHT from the ignition coil, not a battery, which causes an insufficient amount of power going to both the light and the ignition system, resulting in both a dim light (or one that doesn't work at all) and a spark plug that wont generate a strong enough spark to make the engine run well (or at all). It would work completely fine if it was wired differently, possibly if their was some sort of battery or an amplifier going off the white wire, but because the ignition system (WITHOUT anything connected to the white wire) only generates 5 or so volts at idle, and around 11 at high RPMs. If you use a 6v battery, or even a 3v light connected to the wire, the bike wont even run. When I first built my motorized bike, I tried plugging in a 3v headlight, but the engine would not start at all.

Lube 🤯

but i love my exhaust, its so nice and quiet compared to just a straight pipe

@selfactualizer2099

Жыл бұрын

You don't get wild

The white wire is the wire you would attach to the kill switch

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

There are some magnetos that have the white wire for the kill switch, but it is not common. Usually the kill switch only uses the two (usually black and blue) wires and the white wire provides some sort of current from the ignition system. This wire is a hindrance more than anything due to not having the capacity to supply enough power to power anything while also keeping the engine running and can cause short circuits, etc, hence why I recommend removing it.

@mikksaia8373

10 ай бұрын

isn't the white wire the + for a headlamp and you can get the ground from tho body@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

.5 mm squish gap... good lord.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

3 ай бұрын

I have since set all my engines to no less than .8mm squish and I agree, anything less than .7mm is a bit excessive.

Forget that I'm not going through all that I'll get a Ebike.

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I don’t blame you. They are nice and pretty low maintenance, but I do this for the gear heads and the ones who can’t afford an E-bike.

I need a quiet exhaust for my neighborhood

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

7 ай бұрын

For improved performance, I would upgrade to an mz65 clone and use a slip on 22mm silencer (a.co/d/gO4RqRR) and you’ll not only gain a TON of power, but it will be almost as quite as stock. Though, if you are looking for the QUIETEST exhaust, I would stick to the stock exhaust these bikes come with, since there aren’t any other that are any quieter without SIGNIFICANTLY decreasing performance.

@adamsmy8121

7 ай бұрын

​@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 i gotta find somethint quieter than stock the stock is not quiet at all

your video has no audio volume

Best pipe is actuall a modified jog pipe or a modified dirtbike pipe.. if I was u I’d get the mz65 replica and weld a washer of 17mm to 15mm sized hole on the assend of the stinger

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I have no doubt that the absolute best pipes are the jog pipes and the MX pipes, but the main goal of the video is to make beginners familiar with what issues these engines have out of the box, and how to EASILY and CHEAPLY fix them.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 oh ok well I listed a few mods ya really need to do for a most reliable engine File ports and flanges flat use better handmade gaskets File back of magneto flat and it’s mating surface as well Clip internal tube on cap leave 2-3inches Level deck and head mating surfaces Punch holes in carb cap Polish exhaust or as close tonpolished as possible smoothnintake Skirt piston Run it 32:1 during and after break in may add an extra 0.5oz during first two tanks Port edges smooth and chamfered Rings looked over piston looked over Upgrade to Hp magneto and cdi Your choice of sprocket. Bang it at 39/40 mph after break in with all this fixin up… and don’t blow gaskets and have better torque more reliable over all engine.. u welcome

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

@@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90 Thanks. I plan to make a couple upcoming videos going more in-depth about this kind of stuff. Thanks for the great information. I'll make sure to include some of these.

2 stroke 4 stroke. Factory plugs all suck. NG best bet.

For gas

Also the blue 3 wire magneto sux ass and it’s cdi and itself keep blowing… look for the hp red wire 2wire cdi and magneto ya can even actually use the killswitch a lot… not blow it so easy… or even better yet the power storm ignition on dlh-performance great magnet great timing great reliability

Shave the head down ten thousands , check and keep the head torqued down especially after first few rides I put tapered nuts all over mine so nothing comes loose anymore

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the additional info. I don’t know about your engine, but with these engines, I needed to take over 3mm off the surface of the cylinder, so I didn’t really check it until I got about .5mm within the wanted height.

#1 upgrade is wheels w 12g spokes

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

This video is primarily on the topic of the engine. I plan on making a video primarily going over bicycle components, as well as what components included in the kit need upgrading.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 ok well how bout this one to deal w the ex. Gasket failure issues: 1: remove cylinder 2:paint/marker/ink the flange of pipe and mating surfaces of cylinder 3: file/sand the flanges and mating surfaces of cylinder flat til no ink is left or as little as possible.. 4: use a thinner gasket of make your own from gasket material best bet is thin copper sheet thrown on stove to anneal and soften metal. 5: use ultra grey hi temp hi torque or Yama/Hondabond gasket maker/sealer to seal ex and intake flange to mating surface If don’t correctly you can just use plain ole hi temp silicone instead of a gasket and it will seal if flat all the way across as well as a sheet of card stock etc. or felt and silicone or even fiberglass… also makes a good gasket.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 other engine mods to help 1remove all slag and ridges from intake and ex ports w file and sandpaper.2smooth the port walls down then swap to finer grit 3 polish ex side only but leave the intake with a textured/rough finish basically in layman’s terms unpolished yet smooth.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 another upgrade is to sand/file the magneto down in mating side and smooth mating side both flat so ya get a foot connection and use conductive electrical grease to get a perfect connection. Also can use very thin softened copper behind it.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

Another upgrade for the pipe is to remove cap then cut the tube that is on the cap down to about 2-3 inches long and replace cap back on it. You may also gut it but need some back pressure to keep from blowing it.

What the hell are you talking about ring snag And then you said you wanna prep the rings I have no clue what you're talking about I've been working on motors my whole life I think maybe you're just trying to sound important So cause you probably Say so cause you probably a nice kid

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

4 ай бұрын

I have all the needed info and links to further videos and info in the description. When it comes to ring snag, it isn't an issue with every engine, but a lot of the lower quality engines have a lot of defects, casting flaws, and burs around the ports. If left unchecked, these defects can catch on one of the piston rings (ring snag) and/or damage the piston. As far as prepping the rings, its not something that needs to be done, but I have found it to be a good habit since it speeds up the break-in process and is less likely to scoring the cylinder.

@claybornlewis276

4 ай бұрын

OK professor

Blow head gasket? Lol well… ya didn’t modify it correctly…

@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665

Жыл бұрын

I've always had issues with the stock exhaust. If I dont modify it and keep it stock, it DESTROYS exhaust gaskets, but if I remove the cap, my head gaskets blow. You have to find a median, which usually results in cutting out the insides and/or cutting holes in the cap, but to get a good running exhaust that way, it usually requires trial and error. There is a FINE line that you need to stick to in order to modify it correctly, and you go through all that trouble to get a barely noticeable difference in performance. You are better off upgrading the exhaust for $30 and get a true 2-stroke pipe with an expansion chamber, which will give you not only great reliability but a HUGE power increase.

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 yes true any expansion chamber is better than stock pipe well except don’t get banana pipe lil bitty pos it sux assholes

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 and just trim the tube on the cap… can gut it if ya want leave 2-3 inches of tube on cap works great for stock don’t blow gaskets

@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90

Жыл бұрын

@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 file the exh. intake and pipe flanges and cylinder mating surface flat and smooth w cylinder off engine mark w paint ink marker to ensure highs lows are gone.. ya may then seal with nothing but ultra grey ultra copper… or your own handmade gasket thinner the better thicker means more pushing area for pressure and higher chance of cracking more movement also… so use a thin sheet of copper annealed or aluminum or gasket material and some Ho temp hi torque gasket sealer

These engines make so much noise and are a menace to anyone's sanity.

@Cantbreakitifitsnotfixed

7 ай бұрын

😢😢

I call BS on the exhaust issue! All that is needed is to remove the small tube on the outlet side and enlarge the hole to about 1/2 inch. works wonders to open up the engine.

I should have went with my first instinct as soon as I heard him talk and knew that he was going to be worthless for useful information about motorized bicycles. You couldn't even complete an entire video without cutting feed? Some of the stuff that you're saying is useful knowledge and basic, extremely basic. But what happened to the end of your video bud?