Another thing you can do with that gear and axle would be to add a slightly undersized through hole up the middle that you can tap and add a bolt to. The bolt adds compression force and makes that joint MUCH stronger.

To make a vertical print a lot stronger (if you cannot make rounded corners so it sticks to the part completely) - you can insert a screw inside it. Then it would hold like crazy.

@AnotherCG

5 ай бұрын

Then why bother printing?

@s-w

4 ай бұрын

@AnotherCGv Because a screw isn't a gear...

Thanks I been printing screws lately this greatly improved the durability of the parts

This video was a huge eye opener, thanks a bunch!

I am also a woodworker. I think of layer lines the same as grain in the wood

This was actually great, I came across issues like this in the past when making a smart mirror.

1:40 the axle also breaks off easier because it's only attached to the surface of the part which has layer lines oriented in a different way. If the slicer was a bit smarter, it would create a shell that goes through the gear itself, improving the connection between layers.

@suit1337

Жыл бұрын

simple solution for such problems is actually modelling the axle hollow and then placing an infill yourself directly in cad - this way, the slicer thinks that the axle is not a solid but rather an "outside" surface

@Pfaeff

Жыл бұрын

@@suit1337 Simple yes, but a bit tricky to execute.

@davebarkerdesign

Жыл бұрын

takes a bit more filament but increase your infill to 85% or more. The added filets are also a must as you suggest!

If only it were that simple. In lots of situations, fillets like this introduce a mechanical interference.

@josemanuellepe3492

Жыл бұрын

It's not a rule. Those are just tips you may take into account and implement if the model allows it :D

@jero37

Жыл бұрын

Hmm I wonder if instead having a curved recess into the part would acheive the same effect while lending the desired clearance.

@daliasprints9798

Жыл бұрын

@@jero37 Yeah I was thinking something like that too.

@ABSforBrains

Жыл бұрын

@@jero37 yup. Its called an undercut and is used all the time

@WouterZtube

Жыл бұрын

If that’s the case I just make an undercut. I usually just subtract a small cilinder

Simple and to the point. Thanks for sharing

the most useful video in the past 1 year for sure...thanks

I add holes down the middle, round or square, add extra wall or two, and then print a slightly undersized pin (dowel) laying flat to have layer lines long ways, and drive it into the hole. Make's it very tough to break. Add slow cure super glue or epoxy makes it extremely hard to break along layer lines.

Nothing new for me, but true and helpful for new people in 3D-Printing.

Flat surfaces that you want to be tougher, or denser - almost like 100% infill, but not in other areas of the model... you can perforate with a grid of tiny holes - then add more walls in the slicer. Boom - selective infill.

For those wondering, how you would create a fillet, when mechanical interference with other parts might be an issue: In the example of the gear, make a recess into the gear and create a fillet inside the recess

@Mawyman2316

Жыл бұрын

You can also just fillet both the internal and external faces. Internal of the outer part and external of the interfacing part, give a tiny bit of clearance and call it a day.

@glazedfaith

Жыл бұрын

​@@Mawyman2316 easy. I like it

@Arterexius

11 ай бұрын

@@glazedfaith It may not be easy. For complex geometry, complex gear assemblies and/or complex mechanisms, @ichbrauchmehrkaffee5785 gave the best solution, as it would take more time to fillet the internal and external faces, compared to just making a recess in the gears and fillet that. As a side note, doing both in simple geometries, mechanisms and gear assemblies, can actually increase the strength of the part, as you both introduce more rounded surfaces, as well as more surfaces in general, which increase the strength of your parts... given you apply it correctly. A good example of how more surfaces can increase the strength of a part, is looking at the shape of a trailer plate, which is bent in a somewhat odd shape. However, this shape is what gives the trailer its strength, as it's now a lot more capable of resisting forces from both the side and the top, than a flat piece of metal, all done by just bending the piece, adding more surfaces. If this sort of stuff interests you, I suggest looking into mechanical engineering and material science. It sounds complex, but the basics are easy to understand and apply, as seen in both this video and in this comment section

simple and to the point. subscribing.

Solid advice. Thanks for the upload and not dragging it out for 10 minutes! If I see more from you in my feed, I'll be sure to check it out. :)

@glazedfaith

Жыл бұрын

Here's my life story, what I printed, why I printed, the problems I had, a built in ad, more exposition, the solution, a recap, a begging for likes and subscribes, and finally an outro with animations and loud music

I always talk about those tips (and others) to my students, but with this video, I hope they understand better. Thx.

Kudos on these ideas!

great topic, thanks 👍

Thanks for great tips!

Thanks, this is very useful to know

Very helpful! Thank you Sir

Small simple tips that help!

Useful , thanks !

This is so useful. Thank you so much ;)

Thanks for this information

Nice! Simple but effective

Great video!

Thank you for this video

Very good tips and ideas from the comments. 🤘

Super helpful!

Ive found that printing some parts at an odd angle helps strengthen them too. Or making the part in mutliple pieces that are at different angles then glued together, like plywood. You have to look at it as if its made of wood.

thanks. nice basics

Thank you very helpful

Good idea . I do a infill mod and print critical zones solid or more infill ! 😜

excellent !

Awesome now my prints will be INVINCIBLE

Thank you!

Watching at 3 am even I don't have 3d printer

Greate video. I had a problem with 3d printed gear so i printed it in 45 degre angle and that fix the problem.

@markortiz1506

Жыл бұрын

Can you expand on this? What was the problem and how did tilting the gear solve the problem. Much appreciated

@xitalianm

Жыл бұрын

Printing at an angle was better because no lines in any of the axes which would be stressed when using the part?

@bogdanbaclawski5014

Жыл бұрын

@@markortiz1506 The gears are subjected to vertical and horizontal forces, so rotating the model allowed the force to be split and the transitions smooth. The problem was the gear in the toy for my godson

@bogdanbaclawski5014

Жыл бұрын

@@xitalianm Exactly as you're saying

I'll remember that. Thanks, pal

Hey Steven, I was wondering if you have any experience with painting 3d prints, like, what's the best paint, material for 3d printing, etc. Thanks!

yes but if you need to have axle at the 90 degree either concave the gear around the fillet or print the axle as separate piece in stronger orientation

Noticed the planetary gears in your outro. I'd love to see those STL files if you have them handy and any advice on how to design them for low friction high-speed applications. I'm using Fusion 360 if that helps.

Thank You.

Interesting!

thank you

Did you mention print temperature? Raise the heat to increase the layer strength. Makes a huge difference in shear force resistance. But of course, the hotter, the more warped a feature becomes. One must experiment per each type of print.

I use bamboo skewers epoxied into any shaft that has to be printed vertically as my skills at CAD are less then a 4th grader on Tinkercad but adding an extra hole here and there to glue wood rods in is silly easy for a moron like myself.

Nice video

Thanks!

@3DPrinterAcademy

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Bob!

Woooooow, a really good video. Thanks for your time and help. One question ❓ Are you using PLA for making the gears?

@3DPrinterAcademy

Жыл бұрын

yes

Basic, but good 👍🏻

what free modelling programme can i get to adjust the models?

Clever design is everything.

Awesome

Are there gerneral ways to tell the printer to make certain places on the parts with more in-fill or thicker walls?

@Mr850man

Жыл бұрын

At least not in Cura Slicer

Another way of making the print stronger is to treate the print surface with super glue and let it dry. I was did this to petg but unsure how well it would work on other plastics.

When you are rounding those corners (1:46), which software is that?

@cromyjr1592

Жыл бұрын

Fusion 360

@JaXxX410

Жыл бұрын

@Mircea Croitor thanks. Way back I learned some 3D modeling of Autodesk Inventor. This Fusion is the software that seems to keep coming up as the one to learn and tye interface there looks a good bit like what I remember from Inventor.

What Im doing when i print an axle, is to reinforce the part with a bolt or a cylindrical pin.

Great video!!! like!!!1

How about L shaped parts with holes on both flat sides?

This guy is amazing KZreadr can you make a video on cura settings

@tartatovsky

Жыл бұрын

Don't you know how to use periods in your sentences? Or are you just talking fast?

@Marvinzock34

Жыл бұрын

What xD

💪

I've been 3D printing for 4 years and I now realize your content is not meant for me.

Now talk about how it will melt when using toy plastic (PLA).

Metal gear please

As if stuff you print always have those simple shapes

Third

More walls

Welcome to 2017 year

👍

Engineering would be helpful guys -

in other news, water is wet :P

1:40 using snips as pliers is a good way to break snips. I learned this the hard way. 1:54 clearly parts aren’t so strong when you cut them with snips

oh heyy my old friend, captain obvious...

Tesla moon?

Here’s a big tip to designers. You DONT need to make everything indestructible!! It’s insane how strong people design stuff to be even for just little boxes or decorative things. Not to mention how much more material it uses, how much longer it takes to print, etc. I have a bunch of little SINGLE WALL vase mode boxes that are plenty strong enough to store little desk things. And it doesn’t have to be that much thicker to be much stronger. It doesn’t need to be 6cm thick to be good enough for it’s intended use.

@Arterexius

11 ай бұрын

I partially disagree. There's strong enough for its originally intended purpose and then there's strong enough to be capable of doing whatever the person printing it, wants it to do. The latter is crucial for publicly released designs, as overengineering will save on material used in the long run, compared to "just strong enough", which will see more parts breaking, resulting in far more wasted filament. Furthermore, making durable parts doesn't have to be done with 6 cm thick walls. It can be done by clever use of geometry, specifically triangles and circles. Use those shapes properly and it's possible to design really strong prints, while simultaneously saving on material

Thanks for the effort but sorry it isn't a trick if you have to change the part itself. Especialy with that chamfers where it will interfere with something in 99% of cases. Same with the corners, you can't just round it when you want, its called a corner not for nothing

Earlier than the wafflehouse

Wow, are you hiding comments that people post?? Good thing I have screenshots of it.

very genius.... not really