Even if it wasn't as strong, that mold forming idea was awesome!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Thanks, I was taking a page from the Book of Woodworking (Section for steam bending) Didn't quite work but it was at least a cool idea. Thanks for the comment!

@802Garage

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt I subbed to see the next ideas. 😁

The way each piece was clamped during the bending test is partially responsible for the results. The square edge of the table under the piece concentrates most of the stress at that very point on the part.Then, the upper clamp position determines how much that zone can flex. The closer the clamp to right above that corner the less the part can flex. It'll therefore snap earlier and right at that spot. Which can clearly be seen on your 1st test at 10:10 Then notice how the clamp position is inconsistent from test to test. Material test equipment uses standard contact points / curves and well thought out clamping strategies so as to reflect the true characteristics of the material with as little influence from the jig as possible. And also to guarantee repeatability. This said, great example of solution optimizing. And forming the shape via heating + shaping molds was genius. Never thought of that, will have to experiment with it. Thanks for the food for thought 👍

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Certainly a little bit of hill-billy setup, you have pointed out the many flaws of my testing. I completely agree that it was not so precise. What I'm really interested in is real-world testing and in the follow up video I'm working on, I've printed a wide range of materials, and I've made a 'DUMMY' radio which matches the size and weight of the real one and I'll see if I can produce the most likely condition of tripping and dropping it. Most of the time, it would be to take light abuse, but I think on occasion it would be ideal to be able to take heavy abuse and even if it breaks, it would prevent damage to the radio by absorbing the impact (crumple-zone-style). The trick of post-forming is similar to steam bending wood, I borrowed the concept to see if it would apply... it works, but didn't perform as well as I had hoped. I'd still like to try it on some other materials, this ability that PETG has to fracture like glass isn't ideal, maybe ABS would have better properties for this technique?

@marcus3d

5 ай бұрын

Exactly. I was shocked to see so different clamping positions, completely invalidating any test results. What a waste of time and effort by OP.

The void-in-the-middle hack is awesome !

Good video! I think the best way to increase strength is just to design better in this case. However, I would like to see how much stronger those prints would be if you printed slower.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I think so to, it's one of those things, tunnel vision trying to make a design stronger that isn't ideal in the first place. A piece like that looks more like something that should be made from Alum, or sintered. I think I should do a re-design and also print with a few different materials and do some re-testing. I'd really like to do some drop testing with a 'dummy' radio to see what the damage looks like, which parts break, is the 'radio' protected well enough if it hits something hard from waist height let's say. Printing slower for sure a great option. Now that I have the taste of speed, it will be hard to print slower, maybe an overnight print and I won't know the difference.

@meisteredel3021

4 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Yah. I use TPU-CF for applications like that. Can't destroy the parts. Dont need to design it 120% accurate and they will last a long time. But if sth. has to be replicated by others in the community solutions like bending them after printing oder using expensive materials are not to way to go :D

Very interesting video, thanks! One additional interesting sample would have been the original design printed on its side. You would have needed more (tree) support but the layer lines should be oriented quite nicely for endurance (along the long axis of the part).

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Ah, that's a great point, I didn't think of that kind of tunnel vision, but I think that one could have been the best. I was thinking about making a follow up video to show a best way to do it, rather than trying to modify a design. On it's side and have the rail solid, or semi-solid with some type of webbing to avoid supports, also allowing for venting, these radios apparently like to get hot. That could work really well. I have some Prusament that I've been dying to try out. What do you think about the webbing idea?

@tobins6800

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Try both ideas if possible. One might work better for one side and the other better for the other. Projects like this make me wish it were easier to make a mold and melt material into the shape. In that way layers are eliminated.

@mihyouko

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeItYes I understand. I only started considering the part orientation while printing after watching a video a few years ago (CNC Kitchen? Maker's Muse?). But now I automatically do it (also a kind of tunnel vision, I guess...). An additional structure that increases rigidity and get's rid of the need for supports also sounds a good idea. Actually I agree with @tobins6800 commentary, a comparison of both ideas sounds fun. The only thing I can think of that might be critical in this printing orientation is that your screwing direction will no longer be perpendicular to the layer surfaces. But I guess as long as you are not using countersunk screws you should be fine.

@dynameis

4 ай бұрын

+1 to this ,since watch CNC Kitchen I always design/print parts with the extrusion path in mind ,turn off cooling can make layer adhesion better but come with other down side and still not storng as axial orientation

@patrickriggs3433

4 ай бұрын

You can see on the screen recording of the thingiverse page that the OG designer printed theirs on its side. I agree that for the original design, this would have been the most optimal orientation for part strength.

Nice story, and I've never seen post-forming done with such precision before. It may not be great for strength, but I see a lot of use for more aesthetic prints.

another very strong way that i do sometimes is print the part with 0-5% infill to make it hollow and then make a hole at a place to pour in some resin to fill the cavity (have to make sure that the structure is water tight from inside so that the resin doesnt drip out) i dont fill the cavity fully but just fill those places that might face more stress

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Ah, that's a cool technique, that would cause an exothermic reaction, but I guess as long as it's slower it would be okay? Would you recommend using a higher temp material like ABS or PETG?

@v1ncen715

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt It really depends on the resin, filament and design used.. I had ASA and ABS deform a bit when doing this, bust mostly due to very thin walls in my 3D design..

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

@@v1ncen715 I suppose a very sparce gyroid might work well to help a bit with that. I think it's a great idea, basically a form which stays part of the final product, it's cool, and if the resin bonds to it, that's even better.

@newolde1

5 ай бұрын

​@@v1ncen715 what kind of resin would you suggest?

Deep diving you designs, I like it. I usually run thru atleast 3-4 prototypes before I'm happen and what I tend to do is write on my pieces and add notes to them in regards to what to improve.

Great video. Definitely gives me an idea. I make a lot of RC parts and this makes me think of "forming" some of my chassis ideas. Get a combination of the bets layer properties yet achieve the final shape I want. I used to design stamped sheet metal components, I didn't even think about "forming" plastic parts until this video. Good work!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Which material do you use for your parts? I wonder whether I should try this with ABS as well, maybe it will perform better because it doesn't tend to fracture like PETG. I thought it would perform better, it's similar to steam bending wood in a way, but a lot quicker. Printing a solid part and annealing it could work also, my fear with that is the deformation, it would expand what about 3% during heating as well and I'm not sure how the shape would hold up. At that point we may as well injection mould the parts. Thanks for the comment! Lots more videos to come. I'm working on a follow up to this one, but maybe I'll have to do a video on forming some different materials and testing their performance.

I think I'd print it in a hard TPU. That seems very appropriate for a bumper.

@jeremyglover5541

4 ай бұрын

Ha!! Didnt see your comment until i posted exactly the same. I don’t know why the hard shore strength TPU filaments arent used more often. Everyone thinks of tpu for the really flexible stuff, almost never see people using the harder versions. Its very strong. Not that cheap for the good stuff, but well worth it imo

Thanks for sharing this very informative video. If you look at the original design page at the 3:43 mark of the video, you can see that they are printing it on the side. Granted, it will require the use of supports, but it also changes the layer line directions to favour strengthening the sections that seem to experience most stress. Would be interesting to see the same test applied to the part printed in that orientation.

Very interesting! Thanks for your video

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

You're welcome! I have a follow up to this video coming up in a few days, we should have some better results.

Very thoughtful video, thank you!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I'm glad you thought so and thanks a lot for taking the time to write a comment!

Great video! Interesting to see both the 3D modeling, modification & tests. Hope you upload more, Subbed 😃

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Hey thanks. For sure, I have 2 vids/wk and I would love to get to 3. I'm working on a follow up video to this one right now, there were a lot of suggestions, I'm trying to take as many as I can and put them to the test. Thanks for the sub! my goal is to get to 100k in 1 year, hopefully with regular uploads and lots of work we can make it happen.

@Dyaltic

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt You for sure can go well past 100k as long as you keep up these interesting vids, no doubt about it. May I suggest a possible video to do in the future?!

Great video. Very interesting experiment. Keep the good job!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Hey thanks, I really appreciate that!

Very cool video, I never thought about using ABS as a mold, thanks!

excellent research

Great video and explanation 😉

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate you taking the time to write a comment.

Very clever!

I have made these exact same brackets for my radio. I experimented as well and settled on ASA since my radio will often be stored in a hot vehicle/ While this video is more about strength and less about these particular brackets, I was excited to see them!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Ah, cool. ASA is probably a good choice, did you happen to print these on their side? That's a good point about storing in a car, or even outside in the sun. I have another video on the way with a few slight adjustments to the rails to make them stronger and better to print on their side. If you were to drop your radio, what is the most likely height it would be dropped? I was thinking that it would be max 30" high and a person might be walking with it. I'm trying to come up with a realistic test to see how impact resistant they are with a variety of different material choices.

This looks like an ideal part to experiment with non-planar printing, since it has only a gentle elevation and is mostly flat.

Subscribed. Awesome content. As soon as I saw the thumbnail, I knew what it was and had to click! Thanks for the video.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Awesome! Yeah it was an interesting project and though my idea didn't work out so well, I think there were some things we could take away from it. As much as I hate to break things, it needed to be done to see which performed the best. I'll be testing some TPU next, it's something that I've been wanting to do for a while and we'll see how it performs, if it doesn't crack and it can offer good protection, it may be the way to go for anything needing impact protection. I'll have to research how to design using TPU and whether to print it solid or is it better with infill, or variable infill maybe. Lots more videos to come, I'm working on 2 video/wk and I would love to get to three, that'll be a push. Thanks for your support and for taking the time to leave a comment!

I really don't like using PET for anything unless I really need it. I almost exclusively print ABS and that solves most of the issues you're having. It's stiffer but still flexible enough for most anything you need. And your idea to heat/bend with a jig is a great idea!

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

A while back I moved away from ABS for a few reasons, not having a great enclosure, warpage issues, and the smell. On the other side of it, I think you're right, it's strength to weight ratio is pretty high. I have a follow up test on the go right now, it includes ABS as a contender as well as PC. This time I'm doing real world testing for the exact purpose it was designed for. Hopefully these tests provide some interesting results.

I would take a different approach. Instead of trying to copy a fragile frame, I would think of making a plate. I can't see any reason, why the outside could not be flat. So the plates become thick and chunky, perfect for 3D printing and very durable. If you make the outside flat, you can arrange the mounting points an all needed features easily on the inner side. The plate was a perfect for making a clever designed hole for the belt, and you could arrange a channel for the power-cable too. And towards the front you kann taper the plate on the inner side, so you achieve the "curved" look of the bent frame. I would imprint hexagons on the outside of the plate, so the look would be very nice too. Greetings from Vienna!

Great video ! I'd try the same mods with ASA. I'm looking forward to the video, in case you try it.

Great analysis of an interesting problem! Fyi many slicers have the ability to set infill in specific areas, so you wouldnt need the micro gap. I guess it could be nice when redistributing the model though.

Like your simple approach to this testing method. Since your are using translucent materials, you could back light and use a uniform load at different directions and positions to see where the stresses are applied. The light diffraction on the part would help show where to focus your attention. After collecting a few images of the various loaded stresses, look at all of the areas to focus on either increasing rigidity or flexibility (depending on what behavior you are looking for based on the parts use). Would be interesting to watch that as an experiment😁

Awesome video, Mike! I really like the combination and balance of engineering and making in your videos. There somehow seems to be an 'everything needs to be printed' mentality in the 3D-Printing community. Did you consider using aluminium tubing as top and bottom rails that will be connected and capped off with 3D-prints? (Use off-the-shelf strong parts for structure and 3D-print the unique and intricate parts. Assemble into 1 solid and strong part).

@stevrgrs

4 ай бұрын

that was my thought as well. You could either insert them halfway through the print or make a mold of that part and insert it then :D

@Conserveblikje

4 ай бұрын

@@stevrgrs Exactly!😀😀

While it may not have worked for strength, I like the forming idea as a way to print parts without supports or bridges, and that curve would have had obvious layer lines if printed that way. Obviously, there's the overhead of printing the forms, but for creating a lot of the same part, where you can reuse the forms, this could be a great technique. It would have been interesting to see which was strongest when used as intended. That is, bolt it properly to something rigid, and put a strap through the loop, and hang the weight off the strap. I suspect the formed part might have fared better in that test.

Super interesting! I expected the heat bent version to do better because they're basically continuous layers. You should try the same with rigid TPU. Something around Shore 60D or harder. Hard TPU is underused IMO. It's some of the most indestructible out there and probably wouldn't have snapped at all.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I did too, I think maybe I need to try it in a different material, I can do a short with the results, maybe ABS or ASA would do better? PETG seem to be very sensitive to temperature causing that brittleness. I'd love to try TPU, I have some, but it's fairly flexible, so that's great advice, I'll add that to the list, love to see something that doesn't break at all.

@X7Hide

4 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeItalso PP is like middle ground between ABS and TPU for stifness. I use it a lot for practical aplications. 98A TPU is really good as well. I have printed a part with ABS and 20D TPU. Abs snapped off from that thin section. TPU was indestructable.

Great video, I have the same experience with afterheating and forming: not only does is become brittle (because it breaks where it cooled down the quickiest), but deforms completely, any infill will also shrink, and or become weaker. Printing slow is not the thing, the temperature is. Some PetG's print better at 270°C and 300 mm/s. But I can't see your settings, because the file you uploaded is not a Bambulab file. Diminishing the model fan definitely helps, bacause the complete model stays hotter (that is why high temp and fast printing are sometimes better with Petg, and only with Petg, other materials have other specs)

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Ah, that's good to know, from what I had been reading about this, the cooling was the biggest issue. I wanted to print all of the samples with the fans off, including the cabin fan and I also kept the door closed, which resulted in some pretty ugly overhangs. At least we have slow even cooling. After the print finished I let it cool completely before removing it as well. With the one print that I post-formed, I could have probably re-heated the entire part to just below the transition point to see if that could help. I have a follow up video I'm working on right now, trying to take all of the suggestions from this video into account to come up with something that won't break at all, but rather bends and absorbs the impact. I have several PETG samples again, but I also have PC and ABS. That video should be out in a few days. I'm nearly at the point to start testing, so hopefully we get some interesting results.

Definitely unfortunate that the formed version didn't work out better, I was definitely expecting it to as well, but I suppose fair's fair when it comes to essentially pre-fatiguing something 🤷🏿‍♀️

What you want is a hard TPU like 98A or higher. Printed relatively solid and it's pretty rigid and practically indestructible.

I made some legs for the couch from PETG. Total weight was something like 1.3KG. Printed with 4 walls orso then 8 bottom and 8 top layers. I oversized them for good reason. So then I was looking at the strength of them and while they were good, I also knew they could be better. So I turned on the oven at 70 celsius and threw them in. 20 minutes later they had gotten taller and less wide so they were a extremely snug fit at that point. I think given that clearly it had somewhat remelted it should be stronger than it was. So a couple weeks later my dad finally disassembled his chair that had a broken gear for the rear tilt mechanism and I printed a replacement. I had the orientation wrong so I had to print it again however before printing it I put it in the oven at 60 then slowly increased the temperature to 80. That caused a similar change where it got longer and less wide. So I plugged the numbers into Cura and printed it again but this time in the right orientation and after putting it in the oven it was a perfect fit. The part takes on the weight of who ever sits in the chair so it was crucial it was strong. What I am saying is: If you need a functional part you might want to test printing it several times edit any flaws and measure everything just to make sure its the right size. When I just got my printer I tried printing a replacement for the aluminium part of my window. It broke. Using the same method I might be able to make it properly. Also from my testing there is basically no difference between fan full speed or fan off with PETG apart from lots of strings. That is my testing. Which is by no means accurate. So test it for yourself. In this video fan off seems to have helped so try it.

I use printed parts on a milling machine and a lathe. You should make the parts bigger so it is not bending. With bending the layers coming lose and your lose your structural strenght of the part. What I do on PETG : Use 5 to 10 degree higher printing, set the extrusion to 1.05, 100% solid. If you have a design of alu, make it 2x thicker for PETG (more volume). Remember bending and flexing is bad for the layers unless you use TPU.

Nice thinking. Now we need a version made with topologic optimalization generative design. 😉🤓

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I wish! I lost that portion of of Fusion license, but I'd love to experiment with it more down-the-line.

Gotta love the Scientific Method! :o)

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

It's like semi-scientific. Wing-entific?

@Chad.The.Flornadian

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt But did it feel Scien-tasmi-gorical while doing it?

Beyond just annealing, the work hardening factor would be interesting to investigate further. I’m sure you can work on tempering as well instead of full annealing.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

If we could print the model solid, and then create a mold and anneal it that's a pretty good idea, especially if you make the same parts all of the time. Work hardening, that's something I don't hear anything about with plastics. This is something that we have with metals, but I'd have to do a bit more research to see how the structure of the plastics would be affected. My first thought is that melting the plastic just enough to fuse it would be the best, cooling it correctly, and slowly so it can form strong bonds seems to make sense, but work-hardening it, would that be flexing it just to a point before it's MOE?

very nice video. I wonder if your redesign for mod 2 would fair better if you continue the strap holes the entire length of the part. It was the only part to snap past the main opening. what would look like extra strap slots to your user would be a massive increase in strength and small amount of extra plastic.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I think so, it could probably carry quite a bit more weight before breaking, I was really impressed with the amount of weight each of them took considering it was right at the end. I suppose it would depend on the goal, I think with this design we're looking for a bit of flex to absorb some impact when it hits the ground. I'm trying TPU right now to see if there is any chance it might do better, but I'm not so sure that it's rigid enough for this purpose. It might be a bit too flexible. I'd also like to try ABS, and Printing the part completely solid as well. TPU is very slow to print, I'm using the Bambu settings, but I think it could be ramped up at least a little bit. Again no fans, and a variety of infills right up to a solid part, maybe it's the ticket?

Instead of heating and bending you could also changed the print orientation from flat to one side, so 90 deg, change. The layer lines would also all be unidirectional and non interrupted with similar results but with less manual labor. Also as one can see, more rigid does not seem better. Just compare the iPhone 4 with the nice glass backplate and aluminium housing where the glass would shutter and the aluminium permanently deform, compared to the plastic samsung of that time where the backplate would simply fly off and absorb any shocks.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That's probably the best way and then re-design so that we remove the areas requiring support. Even having a thin un-interrupted areas with some vents built-in would probably work really well.

@sierraecho884

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt "...then re-design so that we remove the areas requiring support. ..." Yes exactly, the part already looked pretty well suited for that, some of the designs didn´t needed that much support from the looks of it. Not saying your design is bad or your idea with the forming, it isn´t. It´s actually a pretty clever solution for cases where print orientation is difficult and can´t be altered easily. I just would always try the version with least manual labor and then go to the next best thing. Especially if you want to print them in larger amounts, maybe you want to sell those or something IDK.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

For sure, post-processing is best to avoid, and that's normally how I'd do it. Sometimes I have an idea and go with it, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't and sometimes they REALLY don't. It's a cool concept, but to get it right and to have any benefit it needs to have performed far better, it seems like this one may not need to make another appearance unless I can understand the annealing process fully. There are lots of good ideas, a material switch to TPU may be the best option to prevent any sort of cracking and also provide that protection I was looking for. In this case the design was by someone else, I would not sell the part unless I had permission from the designer. I may end up re-designing from scratch using just the bolt holes along with including all of the ideas you and others have suggested. When I look at the model, I also see that the bolting setup is weak as well, those bolts should really not be inset, they'd need to sit against the most outside surface with a washer as well. I'm thinking that this design was taken from something made from Alum. I'd have to do some digging to be sure, but it's fairly thin profile and skeletal features lead me to think that. Or the Nylon they have it made from professionally is plenty durable. I'm a bit of a glutton for punishment. Nothing like a good challenge to keep the gears turning. Great comments @sierraecho884 as I get deeper into this, I'd love more feedback.

@sierraecho884

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt "...another appearance unless I can understand the annealing process fully...." maybe I can help, I am not a chem. "kind of guy" but I am a mech. engineer. Don´t forget you can´t anneal any type of plastic. only ..I think semi cristalline it was ? I need to look it up again. Basically PLA woks but PETG does not. And annealing will warp the parts a lot so going through that hassle you can just as well create a mold and use PU instead or something and ditch the layer lines all together. "...TPU may be the best option to prevent any sort of cracking and also provide that protection I was looking for. ..." Yes TPU is awesome for those kind of applications. I think it would perform the best. Additionally TPU is rather slow printing and difficult to work with you can come up with designs like a "TPU sock" over a PLA Print for instance, sine PLA is way faster printing. Like a rubber casing or rubber insert for the precious gear inside, or both. "...not be inset, they'd need to sit against the most outside surface with a washer..." Use the 90degree countersunk bolts instead, you increase the area but the bolt head does not stick out. "...Nylon they have it made from professionally is plenty durable. ..." We use the same SLS machines professionally (Automotive engineering) and yes they are incredibly strong parts. I think that´s what they used. "....I'm a bit of a glutton for punishment. Nothing like a good challenge to keep the gears turning. Great comments @sierraecho884 as I get deeper into this, I'd love more feedback...." Thank you too, you seem to be a real awesome person, very receptive to criticism and I really like your out of the box thinking, I have watched a couple of your videos and I must say very well done mate. I am glad if I can help or inspire, also subscribed to your channel.

Do some testing with all of the iterations connected to something with the 2 screws. I'm more curious how they'd fare in a test closer to how they will work in their application

For the weight holder, make a wooden J so you can just put the weights on. You need it, make it. :)

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

LOL, I know so bad, just using junk from around the shop for a hill-billy setup. Will you accept...'it's organic' as an excuse?

That strength is impressive! I am experimenting with PC - it is very strong and dimensionally accurate . As it has all the good and strongest qualities, I think to use it for everything that requires strength. But I am tuning profile for best layer adhesion. This what I want to work with - strong material but having less dependence on direction. Mytechfun did experiements with Prusa pc and pc-f, layer adhesion got to about 40%. Cnc kitchen experimented with transparent petg and achieved 80% layer adhesion - nofans, slow speed. Petg less strong than pc by 30%, but also much less impact resistant by x2

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

These are really good ideas, I have some PC as well, I should give it a try! I think a material show-down would be great, but I'll have to print something smaller, these take hours each to print. PETG doesn't seem to be such a good choice for anything taking impacts, that ability for it to take loads and then all of the sudden fracture is a little bit concerning. ABS, ASA would probably be good choices also. I'll have to add PC to the list to test out. I may have to make a follow up video with some of your ideas.

@vim55k

5 ай бұрын

​​​FYI about slow My experiment from today. Achieved volumetric flow 20 (at 25 doable but noticeable disordered waves) (15 with no waves) on qidi plus3. Temperature set at 330 instead of the max 260 for this Noname PC filament . Speed 224 for line width 0.6, layer height 0.2. Simply 0.6mm width walls. It is transparent, insanely flexible/unbreakable. This is without cooling. So I make walls long enough for the material to be cooled enough. I will have to solve the issue of overheating - adapt the speed and flow rate depending on layer time or something. This is my first experiment at this temperature, will be continued. Very strong bed adhesion at this temperature! 300mm/sec for 0.44mm width set for the top solid fill. Trying slowdown bellow layer time setting ​@@NeedItMakeIt

When you formed the last one, it looked like it had the same dimensions as previous ones. So the forming pulled/stretched the loops. It also appeared to break roughly where it was stretched for the loop. I wonder if you would have gotten a different result if you made the original longer to account for the forming of the loops, such that when the loops were formed, they didn't get stretched because there was enough excess material to make the shape without stretching? Cool experiment though, I never considered forming my prints.

Is it going to far to print the "beams" in two parts, perhaps with little pegs to connect them and a channel in the middle, heat and bend them, and then place a wire bent in the same way between the two halves? Or perhaps print them halved but otherwise in the final shape you need and to put a wire in there?

For the inner-void trick, bear in mind that it lets you shape and direct as much of the inner “fill” as you want. I’d try extending the void channels all the way, curved around to the screw holes and continue down and around the full length. That way the stiffened section doesn’t just end internally, perhaps acting as an even-worse vertical shear/break point.

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

That's a good point, having it stop short caused the stresses to concentrate just beyond the solid area. I have a follow up video as well which went over a few other options and materials and there was one that stood out from the rest, it was pretty impressive actually, the 'tear-drop'

@AndrewPlumb

4 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt yup. Watched that one after this one!

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

@@AndrewPlumb Nice, thanks! I think you're right, I'll have to do some more tests, I have a TPU version that I want to make as well, so many people say that TPU is the way to go, but it's so much different, I need to work with it a bit more and figure it out. It's super slow to print and more like a rubber, so mounting it and having areas which are stiff is something I need to think more about.

Иногда можно напечатать две половинки и склеить их - так получится как бы ребро жесткости дополнительное. ☝☝ По крайней мере на PETG и если его клеить дихлорметаном - получается, что это сварка, а не адгезивное склеивание :)

Im building a Printer, Ive had a nightmare trying ABS and ASA for the parts, even enclosed curling has spoilt every try. Then I see eSun's ST-PLA. Super tough dont you know. And it is, Prints perfect, vey little shrinkage if any and it lives up to its name, Printing 100% Concentric infill gives you solid really strong parts.

Great video, i think a very hard tpu would be great for this application , almost impossible to snap. Was looking at Python flex 98a

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I keep forgetting that TPU is available in so many different durometers. That's a great idea. The ability for something to flex and absorb an impact would be ideal. It would be better to mix materials, or infill settings to have rigid areas and flexble areas like a crumple zone on a car. Python Flex 98a, I'll have a look and add it to the list to test out. I need the gods of YT to send some more money my way so I can buy a bunch of different filaments to test out!

@peaceorpieces8343

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt mixing materials would be great, my new bambu lab a1 is awesome. Im now also regretting not getting the p1p with ams because 4 colour is cool but more colours are needed. Hopefully bambu lab will make the a1 multi ams compatible.Also need more filament, the faster printers eat filament so fast

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Already, wow, that was quick. They've certainly got the right ideas of what to make that people want and need in a printer and also adding some innovation of their own into the mix. I'm not sure where Bambu is going with the AMS, It'd be great to have something that is more universal for sure. It seems like it'd be possible.

Interesting learned alot. Shortcut would be just printing it on its side?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

It can be, to do this, I think I would add some webbing to prevent the supports, and that would be a great option.

Nice video. 👍 I do want to say something though. As the opinion of a previous owner of a 3 3dPrinting company for high performance parts. You shouldn’t have to treat part design like wood. If you are having layer separation it will happen in the weak areas of the design. That just means that you have your print temp too low and the design is bad in that area. Materials means a lot so different materials will have a different outcome on the amount of abuse it will take. ABS is one of the best materials for this type of stuff. Pretty much what the video shows. Best of luck with your channel! 🤙🤙

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Thanks, if nothing else, it was an interesting concept. With PETG I don't usually have problems with separation, however PLA tends to be quite weak, I would attribute it to printing too fast, as well as too much cooling. I'll have to experiment a little more on that. Thanks for your thoughts on that. Love to hear from people with experience printing parts that are meant to take abuse. I'm in the process of making a follow up video, I wanted to take some of the ideas from the comments and see if we could put them to use. I have some ABS so that's on the list. I wanted to try TPU as well, that was a common suggestion, but I think it's a bit too soft even though it's a 95A. I'd also like to re-test higher quality PETG and PC as well. I've also done a slight re-design to print on it's side, and instead of having supports I've added webbing, it may not print perfectly, but I think that if we need supports, we may as well integrate them into the design. I've been trying to stay away from ABS, but it seems to have some properties that the other materials can't compete with. I think what I'll do in this video is mount the rails to a fake radio and do some drop tests from desk height, I'd like to see if they can truly protect the device they're meant to. Thanks for your comment!

it would interesting to see if you added modifiers to one of these mods, in certain areas, to see how much more weight the part could take

@NeedItMakeIt

2 ай бұрын

It's a great idea, I am getting setup for some more testing videos like this, it should be good!

Forming was a neat idea. I wonder if heating it in a controlled way just enough to make it pliable would work out any better?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I think so, in order to do that, I'd need to print it solid, and I probably need to make a video on that. I'll have to do some more research on this. I also want to try ABS, I think it may not be quite as sensitive as the PETG, what you think?

I have watched many many 3D printing videos and the overwhelming conclusion I've drawn is that the best trick is to just print everything as standard as possible. No baking it in sand, no embedded fibers, not super slow or super fast, just 0.2mm layer heights with regular speeds. If it needs to be stronger, change the design.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Avoiding post-processing is one of the biggest benefits of 3d printing, best to take advantage of it for sure. I just released a follow up video to this one to show off some of the different properties of the materials. No post-processing, aside from using supports because I printed all of the parts on their side. Performances ranged from poor, to extremely good using ABS/PC/PETG and Prusament PETG also. I'll be testing TPU next, but I need to wrap my head around the material a bit better, it is far different than the other materials and requires a different approach I think.

I've seen PLA and PETG get brittle after heating it up after it's been printed. this might be something where an extreme amount of temperature control is necessary, of maybe just annealing afterwards. Sounds like there's a fair bit more experimentation to do.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

There is some potential for sure, but yeah I think with these materials, it's going to be hard to get those properties when heating and cooling as uncontrolled as I was doing it. I want to try doing the same with ABS, it may not react the same at all. I have another video in the works as a follow up to include all of the suggestions from this video, hopefully we can come up with something that can take some abuse and not break at all.

Hard TPU would work way better for something like this than any other normal FDM Material. Take a look at Ant weight BattleBots, the are almost exclusively made in TPU for durability. Also it would offer just a slight amount of shock absorbing would would probably be better than something stiff if that radio did fall. Just watch some videos about TPU as settings can play a big difference in stiffness of TPU. Lost in Tech has some good TPU videos

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I think it's a great idea, my only hesitation with it is the print speed, but that's all good if it performs really well. I'm happy to get some material and give it a try. If it's good for battle bots, it's good for what I need to use it for. I'll check out some of the videos, thanks for that. Are there any major drawbacks aside from print speed?

@kiiiddd

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt For the use case in this video nothing really other than just normal TPU stuff like drying the filament. And with direct drive extruders you can print TPU reasonably fast now of day's. It was Bowden extruders that were the main culprit of slow TPU prints

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Going back to my Ender days, I stayed away from TPU, but with the DD on both printers I use now, I think it's time to finally see what it's all about. It seems like a great option and I'm curious about how I might get some areas to be more stiff than others. Adding more walls/infill or is there some way to mix TPU within one print and still have good bonding.

@kiiiddd

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt do you know about adding modifier areas in your slicer? Doing that you can have some areas with more walls or infill than other areas of the same object. Walls and infill will greatly change The flexibility of TPU

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I have on occasion used modifiers, I find them a little annoying, but recently I thought about adding parts within the original model and bringing them all in as a multi-part model, those extra pieces which are in the right place already can be changed to be a modifier and that should help. Is there a way to have infill which changes density continuously? I think CNC kitchen did a video on this a while back, more spare towards the center. Something that is similar to Voronoi/Bone structure seems like it would be the most adaptive and flexible while also being strong.

Would also want to play with infill (super slicer has a setting to do extra perimeter every other layer to "lock" infill), or no infill and just increase number of perimeters so it is solid and re-do the tests... would be interesting to see.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That's a good one also, yes, I think Orca has that feature as well thanks for the tip!

Are the center openings needed? If not, why not fill it in all the way and print it on its side so that the layer-lines follow the curves? And even if the holes are needed, that orientation and using support (if possible with a PLA separation layer) might still be better if you need the curves. Of course, printed completely flat (so at least one side fully flat on the bed) and completely filled would be easiest and very strong if your usecase would allow it. The current part just looks like it was designed for injection-molding, not optimized for 3d printing.

I have to lead with a question. The raised area in the middle of the rails, what is the purpose? Is the idea to add a bumper as protection for the radio, or is it a clearance requirement? If the idea is to simply add more of a barrier for impact protection, simply make that area thicker as opposed to bent. Stick with the same dimensions, but fill in the space where the bent/raised area leaves space.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That is supposed to be where a strap can be added in order to secure an additional device to the top. Apparently is isn't really necessary, but I wanted to keep it like the original design. I'm working on a follow up video and I am taking all of the suggestions including yours and hopefully we can get something that performs a lot better. I have PETG/ABS/PC and I will do TPU, but I think that'll have to be a video on it's own.

Very interesting indeed. At 5:55 you mention a void, could you explain in detail how this will increase the strength of the part?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Thanks, yeah a neat technique, and I think I'll have to try this with ABS, maybe it'll do better. The void that I added is there so that when I form the part, it doesn't collapse, similar to bending hollow steel tubing. Usually I add these when I want to make something withstand a lot more compressive forces. when it comes to parts in tension, I had never tried it for that... apparently it didn't help. Hopefully that helps!

Hi great video. Do you have any experience with compliant mechanisms? I have a specific project that I'm working on and I'd love to get your advice.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I don't have much, it's not a path I've ventured down much, I'm happy to help in whatever way I can.

Good Video. CNC Kitchen have a nice Video to this problem "The STRENGTH of 3D prints REMELTED in SALT " Can you test this Method to?

Put a Steel wire in it to add the strength

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

You're the first person to suggest this, same concept as rebar in concrete, that's an interesting one. A piece of wood may also work well. Should the steel be heated?

Well. Could it be that by reapply heat and bending you accelerated the crystallization of the PET and therefore it got more brittle?

I'm curious is this an enclosed or open-frame print? Because i wonder what the influence of ambient temperature is on PETG layer welding quality. I wonder about the performance of enclosed print with fan weak and elevated bed temperature to create higher enclosure ambient.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I've been printing all of my structural parts in an enclosure with no fan, and as long as the parts are long enough they seem to have enough time to cool before the next layer comes along. Some of the overhangs aren't perfect, but It's a small price to pay. I'm working on a follow up on this video taking in to account as many suggestions from this video as I can. I'm trying some TPU, ABS, PC, and PETG, I've also adjusted the design just a little bit so it can be printed on it's side. Should be interesting to see how each of them performs.

Anyone ever told you that you look like Alton Brown? Missed opportunity to name the channel "Good Prints." 😂👍

interesting idea to print, then press it in a mold, it might not have worked for this project, but im sure the idea will have its own usefulness on one some where. Its a idea ill have to try to remember.

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

It's a little bit like steam-bending wood, which works really well... though it is pretty slow. I think there is still some potential, but there are some things that need to be better understood about this material first. I wonder if ABS is a better choice for forming in this way?

@ZOMBIEHEADSHOTKILLER

4 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt either way, it earned my sub.

The material choice is critical, I would not produce those or basically anything in PLA since PLA is a non engineering material. PETG, PA, PC, ASA would be best for a product like that. Since PETG is the most hasstel free I would design it for that, it flexes nice and is very sturdy also the interlayer bond is great, it does not melt in the sun like PLA does etc. Any other additional process like, interlayering with metal mesh, remelting using epoxy whatever is well more effort more cost more time.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

A one and done is the best way for sure, I had higher hopes with the forming method, but hey we had to try it, and no biggie if it didn't work out. These samples were all PETG, I agree about the PLA. PETG seems really hard to get to stretch rather than fracture, I was impressed with the flat model having been able to be loaded and also stretch. But a complete re-design is probably going to happen because we can do a lot more I think.

@sierraecho884

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt "...But a complete re-design is probably going to happen because we can do a lot more I think...." I am sure you can. "...PETG seems really hard to get to stretch rather than fracture..." Hmmm this one is interesting and keeps me thinking. I already wrote on an other comment that maybe you can "condition" the part with PETG, I am not sure. Do you know what I mean ?

Did you try printing on it's side? the layer lines then are all running along the full length of the design and the shorter width wont' get as much force.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I haven't tried that mainly because the design would require a lot of supports, but I'm working on a follow up video where I slightly adjusted the design to be able to print on the side, I think you're right, it probably would be much better printed sideways. I'm also printing a bunch of different materials to see which would work best to protect this radio.

@tribalrhino

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeItPETG supporting itself will add cost to the product, time to the print and frustration to the removal, but it's all a journey :) Looking forward to the rematch :)

at 5:57 you mention the split in order to force 100% infill... why do this instead of adding a modifier in your slicer?

Have you looked into putting it in salt(to keep shape) and then into an oven?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

This is something I thought about a few years ago, but it seemed that using a method like that would produce a shape which is not exact. I'd have to test it on my own to be sure. There may be a way to avoid this by having a clamping pressure applying force to keep everything in the position it's meant to be in. Definitely an interesting topic and I may have to test this in a future video as well!

What I do when designing something for 3d printing is think on the stress direction the structure is going to experience, and depending on it I design the object taking into consideration the direction of how is it going to be printed

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That makes the most sense, in this case it would be best to print something like this on it's side and adjust the design around that position rather than trying to make it work another way. The model printed with the strap areas flat worked really well, I was pretty happy with that, but printing it on it's side with a re-design would probably work better. Great points @HmegaB

Very interesting concept the reforming. Shame it doesn't work out well.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I really though it would do better but after mounting onto the table and seeing how springy it was, I wasn't so sure. I wouldn't mind testing the idea of annealing inside of an ABS form, I'm not sure it would work well due to expansion and warpage of each material, maybe annealing in salt/baking soda. Alternatively I could re-design the model so that it can be printed on it's side, and maybe include some webbing to allow it to vent the radio properly.

interesting thx

Print in TPU. Great layer adhesion, almost indestructible parts.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

TPU is going on the list. Do you have some ideas about how to show real parts being tested with TPU? I can do these same parts again of course.

Smart.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for that!

Add more material where the high stress areas, where the material failed. This means adding gussets at the transitions in directions.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I'm at a bit of a cross-roads and I could use some advice. If we add more material we end up with something that's stiffer and can take more loading, but it doesn't flex as much, and with PETG I would imagine it would result in a fracture if it can't flex enough. Is it always better to add more material than less? Or is it better to size the material dependent on how you want it to behave under certain conditions. If I drop the radio, and I want those front rails to bend a bit and absorb the impact for example. Thoughts?

The best way to print this would be to print it on the side. This way you are working with the grain on the carves and not dealing with the layer lines.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Absolutely, I agree. This was something I wanted to do, but the massive amount of supports needed was saying that it was not designed to be printed that way. That said, I am working on the follow up for this video taking all of the suggestions, including yours and trying to come up with the best option. It should be released in a few days, and I think we're going to see some better results. I also want to do some actual drop testing to see how they stand up to real abuse. Adding weights to something is all well and good, but the actual real-world testing is better I think.

did you use electric cables as a rope to hold the weights?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That's right, I'm 1/2 farm boy. I have plans to melt my wire down when I get some time.

3:35 Are you sure you didn't simply print the model in the wrong orientation? Looks like you printed it flat but based on your wood grain comparison you should print it upright so those bends stay mighty strong. Which is also exactly what the creator of the model shows on the thingiverse page.

MOD2 had more surface area under the clamp so not really good test. I assume the 15lbs is around the max for the material.

Have you considered using the method of heating it in popcorn salt?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I haven't, but it's probably a better use for popcorn salt than eating it. I will definitely have to try it out.

@jmr

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt It seems to eliminate layers line weakness pretty well.

Might want to try a hard shore strength tpu

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

I'm just about to setup to test 95A TPU, but I'm not sure it's hard enough, it seems anything harder is "too hard" or at least that's what people are telling me. From my testing so far, the 95A seems a little too flexible.

@jeremyglover5541

4 ай бұрын

Yeah, 95A should be good for this purpose, but in all honesty you need to revisit the actual design as well IMO. I feel that thickness, print orientation and print speed/heat/nozzle size will all play into how this performs. There is no reason that a well designed part in 95A, that is well attached, will not be strong enough. As other have mentioned ABS/ASA work well too for strength. PC is about the strongest, but its also the most difficult to print properly and its also a material that suppliers on the cheap side seem to mess with and screw up. Has to be a decent brand/quality IMO. Good luck. Like the videos. I like that you provide a more realistic use case. You cant just 3D print everything and i like that you, like myself, mix media and techniques for best results and tactile feel.

Did you ever order a part and test IT?

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I haven't but I have a company that wants to support my channel with 3d Prints that they make professionally, I could reach out to them and see if they could produce the same part, I could do some more for testing and we can see how much better a pro version would be. Do you have any examples of parts you'd like to see tested?

I think you're expecting too much from this particular design. Redesigning is the way to go

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That I can agree with. I think to take the outer shape and re-design it to have the piece continuous and then print it on it's side. We can build in vent holes, and I think we'd end up with something that performs far better. I'm not solid on the PETG, maybe ABS or PC would be better choices. Some have mentioned using a harder TPU, I don't have enough experience with TPU, but I've heard a lot of good things... other than slower printing requirements.

The Linus DumbTips way, flex stuff cause all products and parts need to be solid stiff.

Petg-CF. Problem solved. Dry, 30% fan at high speed extrusion and 70% fan on overhangs. I have parts I am manufacturing for mass production and they need to withstand 50-75lbs of pulling force.

@NeedItMakeIt

3 ай бұрын

I'll whip some up, I have some PETG-CF, I've found my prints with it in the past to be brittle... but it was the cheaper stuff, I'll add it to the roster to try again!

You also tested only 1 part in one orientation, this does not reflect real live use. I would habe simply printed it on one side since all the transitions are roughly 45 deg. And increased outer perimeter count.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Yup, I plan on doing more. The test was supposed to reflect how the original part was broken in the best way I could think of. Full and complete testing would take months of work and a lot of money. I have little money and 2-3 days. I'd love to do more, and I will be, we can always follow up with another video using feedback from everyone. These parts are fairly large and take over 2 hours to print, I'd want to change the design to something else that's smaller and re-test as you say in different orientations. The part is intended on taking abuse and protecting from impact. Testing for impact resistance would be good to include in future videos as well. The reason I like to test real parts is because it's far easier to understand and relate to real life, testing tiny thin pieces of plastic helps to understand and compare materials, but it's hard to apply to real-life.

@sierraecho884

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Testing is very time and money intensive. "...The reason I like to test real parts is because it's far easier to understand and relate to real life, testing tiny thin pieces of plastic helps to understand and compare materials, but it's hard to apply to real-life..." This is the difference between material tests and geometry tests. You can shorten it through FEM however the results will vary widely. Especially with 3D printing where the parts are non isotropic, kind of like wood (which you mentioned). You choose a really hard topic for your KZread channel I must say. Theere are sooo many parameters, from material, to nozzle, size, to extrusion width, temp, fan speed and what not. All of which have an influence and that BESIDES the geometry of the part.

Why not print it in Nylon?

It would have been helpful to understand the radio and why the print is designed this way in the first place.

14:40 Did you mean Mod #1?...

The problem has more to do with the ape handling it. Once mounted and the ape can not longer paw at it, it shouldn't exceed it's physical limitations. If I smash my porcelain on the bench it's going to break, too. Does it mean there's something wrong with the design? The customer more than usually is not right.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

That's an interesting perspective. My point of view is a little different, and it goes like this: If I sell something and someone breaks it, I'll be replacing it at my cost. It doesn't matter how it breaks, I'd need to replace it in order to keep my customer happy. The custom is always right thing, yeah, with you on that! Customers are people, and people are only right some of the time. A better way to look at it is, how are you going to make sure you keep your customer happy so you can continue to do business. My first job years ago was in retail; that brainwashing was one of the first things they'd tell us. No thanks. Funny story, I had a customer come in asking for a timer for his Fridge, this is when I was 15 years old BTW. He said he wanted it to save money on his bill. I had to explain that his fridge turns on and off automatically based on the demand, adding a timer would not work. He never bought a timer that day... at least not from our store.

@UnitSe7en

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Yes. I mean more fully that I do understand that point of view. I've sold things to people before - Even working retail for a small shop I can't help but feel responsible for the quality of the products that I take people's money for. I have a really hard time taking people's money. I can't ever sell anything I own because I feel constantly responsible for it's longevity and performance. - But that's mostly a ridiculous way to think and I'm aware of that. If an item left my hands working, I shouldn't be responsible for it after that. If I sell a box that's come packaged from China and it breaks, I shouldn't be (personally) responsible for that. How much does the extra effort impact the cost of the part and profit to you? Time and effort to manufacture? Is it _really_ necessary to take on what should be other people's self-responsibility or compensate for their mistakes? -Sometimes, maybe. When the part is mounted as intended then it works perfectly within spec. When an cro-magnon tries to twist it over on itself, then it will break. Perhaps there is some compromise between blaming the customer for being a chimp and trying to make it totally fool-proof that isn't going to impact your R&D and manufacture? - It could be just as simple as a warning or notice to instruct people how to not 'misuse' the product? Because there seems to be nothing _wrong_ with your product. It works. Does what it's meant to, nothing it isn't. I'm not certain that it needs fixing. Obviously you should do what makes _you_ feel most confident in your product. But maybe you don't have to take all the blame for every failure of it as a failure of yours, is all.

I think when you heated up the PETG with the heat gun, it didn't reach a high enough temperature for maximum strength and became brittle. For annelling parts with better strength, you'd have better luck reflowing the whole piece using flour salt and the piece itself as the mold. This method only works if the part is printed with 100% infill and works best with PETG. Check out the original video of this method here kzread.info/dash/bejne/oIaArJaynKq6dsY.html. CNC kitchen tested this method kzread.info/dash/bejne/dq11rdaMYcWZg7Q.html

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I'll check it out, that sounds really good. My thought about re-heating in a mold was to try and keep it as accurate as possible, but packing material down around it could work as well. I'll have to check these out. 100% infill isn't a big problem. I wonder whether 100% infill is best, or 100% Walls, we could probably do one wall and the rest infill. Or would it make any difference?

@H34...

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Shouldn't make a difference either way, since in the remelting process it all becomes one homogeneous/isotropic plastic piece. I believe in CNC kitchen's testing he showed the Z axis strength was on part with the XY strength of the part, so if the layers had no trouble fusing i doubt adjacent extrusions will have any trouble fusing. The major downside of this process is that is is very time and labour intensive though.

I would have print it sideways. Printing sideways would increase strength and you don’t need a heat gun and time to get the correct shape. And as others commented TPU would be a good choice too.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Sideways is a good option as well, it would make the rails strong, and the front and back sections could be re-designed to be a bit stronger to have a bit larger cross-section, or make them thinner and more flexible. it creates a lot of supports, that could be avoided by adding a thin webbing between, if you're printing supports why not have them as the structure? TPU is big on the list. I also want to do a re-design from scratch using just the hole positions I'd like to get some ideas from other people about how they'd do it and then maybe we can make a little competition out of it.

@Todestelzer

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt you would be surprised how long you can be bridging without supports. I think you could print this model without supports at all. You only need a well tuned extrusion multiplier.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

Yes great point! The design could easily be adjusted to reduce the spacing as well for a better bridge, nice thought on that. I think you're right about sideways. I think this is a case of the designer wanting to sell their pro-version made from nylon and not really thinking much about printing our own, it really shouldn't have been designed this way. I was thinking about testing some TPU, how does it bridge? I have honestly never printed with any, I was stuck in the mindset of Bowden from my Enders and I had never tried it to avoid trouble. It's time to move on to TPU and see what it can offer for protection. I also want to print some cases for my wireless mics to keep them a bit more well protected. TPU is white, which looks pretty awful, but I'll go with it for now.

@Todestelzer

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt I would use PETG for this part when printing sideways. It should be plenty strong. You can use PLA as interface material if looks matter. 0 distance and 0 interface spacing. I don’t print TPU that often but bridging isn’t good with it.

Have you tried just annealing your entire prints?

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

I haven't but I am working on a follow up to the follow up to this video and I can try and integrate that. I have been thinking that TPU is the way to go, maybe using a 98A for some flex, but still has stiffness to it as well.

Maybe try to print it on a side?

@NeedItMakeIt

4 ай бұрын

Check out the follow up video! I took all of the ideas that I could from the comments and I made a video out of them. Very cool results in the 2nd video. I have one more video left in the series, I want to test TPU, but I need more experience with it first, it's nothing like the other materials!

Concrete hint?.... rebar ; )

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I mean, yeah, if you can tension it, I can see something like that having an affect. Printing hollows and adding steel rods with some JB weld might work well, it's just a fair amount of extra work.

I can't get my head around how to design a part.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I can try to help, which stage are you at?

Alex Labs has a great video on making strong 3D prints. Video is called '#7 I FOUND IT!!! Perfect material for Real Iron Man suit. 3D print + carbon fiber + electroplating'.

@NeedItMakeIt

5 ай бұрын

I've never heard of it, I'll check it out thanks. I just finished my test rig for some REAL drop testing on these rails, and geez... feeling the weight of this thing I'm not sure there's a lot that would survive a drop. The goal with the next set of tests is that the rails make sure that the device stays protected, so... hopefully at least one of the options does that. I've seen a video or two on electroplating prints. It seems like we've all gotten a bit carried away with out 'little' 3d printing obsessions. What do you think it is about 3D printing that draws so many people in?

@HaloWolf102

5 ай бұрын

@@NeedItMakeIt Give your average joe the power of being a manufacturer, and the world becomes small enough to grasp. True creative freedom to make whatever you want for a fraction of the price. It's liberating.

i dont believe the formed one was weaker per say. my assumption that the area you formed became stronger the rest. the point of which that sat on the edge that wasnt heated and formed is where the bending occured. you can see the bridge that was formed showed almost no bending under stress. how ever both ends of either side of the bridge bent significantly, by hardening the bridge the new weakpoints became where the harding started and ending on both ends of the bridge..

@KnuXx28

4 ай бұрын

with that said try making a form for the entire model and heat form it in all in one go.

@KnuXx28

4 ай бұрын

im curious to see how this would effect the model in its entirety. by doing this i also believe itll be stronger but you will lose the pliability of the item making it brittle. thanks for this video. good stuff!