Hello from Siesta Key Florida

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Hello there!

A tip for next time. I use a straight edge and go around the boat and skim coat the low spots, power sand the skim coat and keep applying layers only low areas of the surface until all the obvious low spots are filled. Then I trowel the hull with the skim coat and lightly power sand it. Then I guide coat it with a contrasting colour mist coat of automotive single pack primer and attack it with my long board. I know how much work is involved and I applaud your efforts because that is how I used to do it 50 years ago before epoxy came along and the fillers that we used back then were very hard to sand. I have been following your adventure and enjoying watching how you address problems as they inevitably arise even to the experienced builder. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate it. I know there are plenty of people that would have been done with this part of the project by now with their experience, but I don’t have that luxury. But, I am a pretty quick learner by and large, and I am almost past this part. I am just about sure I will go with a high build primer next and guide coat and keep moving the ball ever so slowly towards the goal. I appreciate you following along. Make sure you let me know when I am straying.

Again, mighty fine looking boat. Your persin

@stevejackson4136

Жыл бұрын

Oops, your work will pay off. Keep it up!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

It will all work out in the end and I will have one hell of a story to tell...

I really hope you'll consider putting your guide coat of primer on after you sand this coat of fairing compound. It's way easier to find low spots, and primer is so much cheaper than fairing compound. Clearly you're not worried about saving a dollar on the build, and VERY clearly you're not afraid to put in the work. You're at the point where you're sanding off 90% of what you've applied. This is the point of diminishing returns. Priming (or scratch coating) and sanding will give you a perfect indicator of low spots, which you can individually fill and sand and move on from this step. I would have primed *before* this coat of compound, but we've already had some discussion about technique in past videos :) As always, I appreciate your dedication to perfection and hard work.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

That is definitely my plan to put primer on next layer. And please don’t take my statements as being argumentative but as an attempt to provide clarity. I really want all the advice I can get. I care about cost and effort insofar as I don’t want to waste either, but I’m not looking to cut corners of that makes sense. I wouldn’t say I’m sanding off 90% with the sanding of the spot corrections, but it’s hard to know how much. I think by and large we are on the same page theoretically, it’s just that my execution is sucking. I think I’ll be ready to go to primer after I sand back the spots I skimmed. I may ir may not have to come back with a little fairing after that first step. Now the question is high build or finish primer?

I have a lot of experience with sanding and blocking, just have some tips for you. grind the corners or the spreaders round so you don't dig into filler materials when you spread the filler, having a bit more materials higher better than lower where have to re-apply. and area on reverse chine(with angle), before blocking the flat surface, wrap sandpaper around a copper pipe maybe 6" in length, carve out the reverse crown hull body line first to 95%, and use masking tape to mask the lowerest part of the carved line, before blocking the flat area (obviously don't let sandpaper dig into the taped area), once one flat side is complete, remove the tape and retape the carved outline but on the other side of the lowest part of the carved line(the side you now block down flat). and then block the hull part. carving the line first and follow with the tape trick, to get you an even smooth reverse crown bodyline. I had a decade of autobody experience before and this's how body tech work with filler. it is so much easier to show in action than words. first is to get the line out of the reverse crown hull body line with a small pipe, 2nd is to take out(sand) the material on one side of the flat spot but with tape to protect the lowest part of the carved line. 3rd is to take out the materials on the other side of the flat area but this time the masking tape has to tape the other end. obviously, you don't want to block beyond the taped area during the whole process. without the tape trick, it will be extremely difficult to get a straight even reverse crown bodyline just by sanding block. I am building a flat-bottom boat too you can see my very last episode but I am up North, the weather is too harsh to start yet.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I'm going to spend some time trying to visually put this together and I really appreciate you taking the time to write it out. I may come back with some questions if possible. Really appreciate it.

Having just faired a 27 foot center console, I feel your pain. One energy saving tip is to use an orbital sander to knock off those ridges and obvious high spots before moving to a long board. As I got closer to final fairness a powdered black guide coat really helped out (as per Andy). And it is best not to think of the many hundreds of dollars represented by all that fairing compound dust being blown away!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I don't mind the longboard because it gives me a lot of feedback. I'd worry I'd screw something up with the orbital. I'm almost done with this part, so I still think the long board will ensure the best finish. I have some powdered guide coat, but I want to get high build on it before I use it. That shouldn't be too much longer. Appreciate you checking it out.

Hey, Oscar Lot of hard work , hats off to you. I believe there’s a lot of areas on any boat that you can use a straight edge to check for high and low spots- even after the primer. The transom for instance, if it’s a flat one get yourself a straightedge, I know it will help. Anyway, small bites and one step at a time. You’re doing great. Texas

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate it. Just doing the best I can. I thought there were more straight surfaces as well, until I tried to use a straight edge. I covered that a few videos before. I'm okay with her having curves. The good ones always do.

Just when you think you're done and you're ready for paint, you'll find another area with exposed fiberglass weave that needs to be filled!

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Yep. But little by little we are getting closer to being done. The next time (God forbid there is a next time), I will know a whole lot better what to do.

I have just used a cheap sandable primer in the past as a guide coat. Just mist it all over. I have used it over total fair and not had any problems.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I've heard that but with my luck it will be the one primer that will kill any bond I will have with the future coatings. I am very reluctant to get off the straight and narrow with paints and primers. Appreciate it.

@daviddailey4959

Жыл бұрын

@@Bigeaux20 call Jamestown Distributors, their tech support is phenomenal. I understand the reluctance Oscar, you have put a ton of work in that hull, good stuff buddy.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I’m going to do that. I’ll let you know what they say. Maybe I can beat a sponsorship out of them.

Once again-super helpful video (and very nicely produced)

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Thanks again!

Hard work for sure, but it looks good and you’re making progress. 😎

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

That's the plan! Appreciate it!

Would renting a Air long board sander help you out More then over working your Arms?

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Maybe, but for how long. If I was working the boat every day it would probably make sense. This last video was probably over about a three week span where I think I got about 3 total days of working on the boat and one day for only about an hour. It just doesn't make sense. I really don't mind the physical part of the sanding. It's a fine teacher. Appreciate the options though.

Wet it out with water and a drop of soap, you can see anny humps and bumps in the reflection

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

May give that a try. Appreciate the tip.

@ErikKrijthe

Жыл бұрын

@@Bigeaux20 Great project by the way think you're doing a pretty good job

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

@@ErikKrijthe I appreciate it. Just doing the best I can with the knowledge and experience that I am gaining. This one and one more will be two I've built.

You got some patience Idd be using orbital and longboard air sander She looks awesome coming together bro. I got full confidence that this is going too end up with a good finish

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

@michaelfisher9829

Жыл бұрын

One suggestion would be to tint each layer of fairing compound. It will help too better see the highs and lows

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

I kind of feel like that's what I have now, which is multiple layers and/or colors of compound because event he same product doesn't always come out the same tint. I'm thinking about taking the whole thing to high build just to get it back to the same color.

@michaelfisher9829

Жыл бұрын

@@Bigeaux20 The boat is really looking good. My dad used to work for Chris Craft. The contrasting helped to really show the highs and lows. Best of luck.

@Bigeaux20

Жыл бұрын

Man those old Chris crafts were awesome. Appreciate the advice. I’m listening I promise.