32. DIY Boat Building: Finding Issues isn't FAIR!
🚨Attention KZread viewers!🚨 Join me in my backyard as I build a boat from scratch using SaltBoatworks.com plans. No experience? No problem! Watch as I transform into a boat-building expert with my own hands. 🛶🏠
From cutting the pieces to gluing them together, I'll show you every step of this exciting DIY fiberglass boat-building process. You won't want to miss a single moment of this thrilling adventure! 🌟
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#DIY #FiberglassBoat #BackyardAdventure #BoatBuilding #SaltBoatworks #FRS18 #FRS18Flats #PlywoodBoatBuilding #DiyBoatbuilding #Boatbuilding #Plywood #PlywoodBoat #FiberglassBoat #Fiberglassepoxy
When we get to 1000 subscribers, we are giving away a set of plans. More information to come.
Products I have used:
Paint & Prep:
Total Boat TotalFair: amzn.to/4bJWJ0U
32 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3I5SUFw
20 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3SM6lzE
10 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3I6IcP9
Foam Paint Roller Kit: amzn.to/3T45k7k
Sanding Pads (Soft Density): amzn.to/3UK346x
Dura Block Sanding Block: amzn.to/3UMnDiw
Dura Gold 80 Grit Roll Sandpaper (Adhesive Back) amzn.to/3UK3BW5
Total Bilge Paint: amzn.to/3I5Xy6H
3M Respirator: amzn.to/49GBcEC
Dura Gold 5" RO Sanding Pads (Hook and Loop): amzn.to/49CVtvf
Nitrile Gloves (textured): amzn.to/49oXJ90
Red Tree Mini-Mohair Rollers: amzn.to/3IsfQ2h
Squeeze Bottle for Denatured Alcohol: amzn.to/3OMpP5J
Dura Gold Tack Cloths: amzn.to/3OS0PKm
16" Paint Roller Red Tree: amzn.to/3OMq8xp
4" Roller Paint Liner Trays: amzn.to/49mWlE1
4.5" Grinder Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3SNiXX5
Replacement Dust Cartridges for Respirator: amzn.to/49D72So
Dura Gold Guide Coat Powder: amzn.to/48rWsgj
Fiberglass Tools:
Plastic Putty Scrapers: amzn.to/4bORz3R
Fin Rollers: amzn.to/48yh0E0
2" Chip Brushes: amzn.to/49D584c
Denatured Alcohol: amzn.to/3OTsJWt
Plastic Scrapers for making Fillet Tools: amzn.to/3uKDUtN
Small Epoxy Mixers: amzn.to/3UPF3uS
Heavy Duty Zip Ties: amzn.to/3I7ZNGx
Power Tools:
File Sander: amzn.to/3UNk8Zm
Bosch 12V Drill: amzn.to/4bWCywW
Wen Plunge Router: amzn.to/3wqHDxa
Bosch Random Orbital Sander: amzn.to/3SP6DFF
Tool Accessories:
Stanley #4 Hand Plane: amzn.to/42PDDCp
Hole Saw Kit: amzn.to/49JQqsg
Aluminum Radius Templates: amzn.to/3uFEs4c
Rabbet Router Bit Set: amzn.to/49Lq2OX
Small Filleting Tools (Cake Set): amzn.to/3I9UMNQ
Shop-Vac Dust Bags (16 Gallon): amzn.to/3SPKEOY
Forstner Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/4bHEkBL
Boat Fitting & Components:
Garboard Drain Plug: amzn.to/49kc0Eb
Bow & Stern Eyes: amzn.to/49sc3h5
Stainless Pop-Up Cleats: amzn.to/49ICMWl
Lenco Trim Tabs: amzn.to/42PDXkB
T-H Marine MIcro Jack Płate: amzn.to/48rttJw
1.5" Attwood Thru-Hull Fittings: amzn.to/49zVsry
Groco Thru-Hull Strainer: amzn.to/3UPEyku
White LED Cockpit Lights: amzn.to/3uGJldf
LED Livewell Lights: amzn.to/3UHywSS
Moeller Marine Fuel Tank Brackets: amzn.to/3UHyAC6
Red LED Cockpit Lights: amzn.to/42PKvzB
27 Gallon Moeller Marine Fuel Tank: amzn.to/3SFlNxa
Deck Drains (90 degree - 1.5" Stainless): amzn.to/3I8rn6p
Shelter & Work Space:
Advance Outdoors Tent: a.co/d/3E3KgZ4
LED Tent Lights: amzn.to/3I5SoY6
Power Strip & Charing Station: amzn.to/3uGkLZY
Tarp Grabber Clips: amzn.to/3UP19h8
Video Equipment Used:
GoPro Hero 8 Camera: amzn.to/49HFStP
External Hard Drive 5TB: amzn.to/3OTyhAl
Topics we hope to cover: DIY boatbuilding, Homemade boat, Boatbuilding, Plywood boatbuilding, Stitch and glue boatbuilding, Wooden boatbuilding, Boatbuilding techniques, Boatbuilding plans, Boatbuilding materials
Boatbuilding tools, Boatbuilding tips, Boatbuilding projects, Boatbuilding for beginners, Boatbuilding videos, Boatbuilding community, Boatbuilding forums, Boatbuilding blogs, Boatbuilding courses, Boatbuilding books, Boatbuilding supplies
Follow along by subscribing to @Bigeaux20
Пікірлер: 37
Hello from Siesta Key Florida
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Hello there!
A tip for next time. I use a straight edge and go around the boat and skim coat the low spots, power sand the skim coat and keep applying layers only low areas of the surface until all the obvious low spots are filled. Then I trowel the hull with the skim coat and lightly power sand it. Then I guide coat it with a contrasting colour mist coat of automotive single pack primer and attack it with my long board. I know how much work is involved and I applaud your efforts because that is how I used to do it 50 years ago before epoxy came along and the fillers that we used back then were very hard to sand. I have been following your adventure and enjoying watching how you address problems as they inevitably arise even to the experienced builder. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I appreciate it. I know there are plenty of people that would have been done with this part of the project by now with their experience, but I don’t have that luxury. But, I am a pretty quick learner by and large, and I am almost past this part. I am just about sure I will go with a high build primer next and guide coat and keep moving the ball ever so slowly towards the goal. I appreciate you following along. Make sure you let me know when I am straying.
Again, mighty fine looking boat. Your persin
@stevejackson4136
Жыл бұрын
Oops, your work will pay off. Keep it up!
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
It will all work out in the end and I will have one hell of a story to tell...
I really hope you'll consider putting your guide coat of primer on after you sand this coat of fairing compound. It's way easier to find low spots, and primer is so much cheaper than fairing compound. Clearly you're not worried about saving a dollar on the build, and VERY clearly you're not afraid to put in the work. You're at the point where you're sanding off 90% of what you've applied. This is the point of diminishing returns. Priming (or scratch coating) and sanding will give you a perfect indicator of low spots, which you can individually fill and sand and move on from this step. I would have primed *before* this coat of compound, but we've already had some discussion about technique in past videos :) As always, I appreciate your dedication to perfection and hard work.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
That is definitely my plan to put primer on next layer. And please don’t take my statements as being argumentative but as an attempt to provide clarity. I really want all the advice I can get. I care about cost and effort insofar as I don’t want to waste either, but I’m not looking to cut corners of that makes sense. I wouldn’t say I’m sanding off 90% with the sanding of the spot corrections, but it’s hard to know how much. I think by and large we are on the same page theoretically, it’s just that my execution is sucking. I think I’ll be ready to go to primer after I sand back the spots I skimmed. I may ir may not have to come back with a little fairing after that first step. Now the question is high build or finish primer?
I have a lot of experience with sanding and blocking, just have some tips for you. grind the corners or the spreaders round so you don't dig into filler materials when you spread the filler, having a bit more materials higher better than lower where have to re-apply. and area on reverse chine(with angle), before blocking the flat surface, wrap sandpaper around a copper pipe maybe 6" in length, carve out the reverse crown hull body line first to 95%, and use masking tape to mask the lowerest part of the carved line, before blocking the flat area (obviously don't let sandpaper dig into the taped area), once one flat side is complete, remove the tape and retape the carved outline but on the other side of the lowest part of the carved line(the side you now block down flat). and then block the hull part. carving the line first and follow with the tape trick, to get you an even smooth reverse crown bodyline. I had a decade of autobody experience before and this's how body tech work with filler. it is so much easier to show in action than words. first is to get the line out of the reverse crown hull body line with a small pipe, 2nd is to take out(sand) the material on one side of the flat spot but with tape to protect the lowest part of the carved line. 3rd is to take out the materials on the other side of the flat area but this time the masking tape has to tape the other end. obviously, you don't want to block beyond the taped area during the whole process. without the tape trick, it will be extremely difficult to get a straight even reverse crown bodyline just by sanding block. I am building a flat-bottom boat too you can see my very last episode but I am up North, the weather is too harsh to start yet.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I'm going to spend some time trying to visually put this together and I really appreciate you taking the time to write it out. I may come back with some questions if possible. Really appreciate it.
Having just faired a 27 foot center console, I feel your pain. One energy saving tip is to use an orbital sander to knock off those ridges and obvious high spots before moving to a long board. As I got closer to final fairness a powdered black guide coat really helped out (as per Andy). And it is best not to think of the many hundreds of dollars represented by all that fairing compound dust being blown away!
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Yeah I don't mind the longboard because it gives me a lot of feedback. I'd worry I'd screw something up with the orbital. I'm almost done with this part, so I still think the long board will ensure the best finish. I have some powdered guide coat, but I want to get high build on it before I use it. That shouldn't be too much longer. Appreciate you checking it out.
Hey, Oscar Lot of hard work , hats off to you. I believe there’s a lot of areas on any boat that you can use a straight edge to check for high and low spots- even after the primer. The transom for instance, if it’s a flat one get yourself a straightedge, I know it will help. Anyway, small bites and one step at a time. You’re doing great. Texas
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I appreciate it. Just doing the best I can. I thought there were more straight surfaces as well, until I tried to use a straight edge. I covered that a few videos before. I'm okay with her having curves. The good ones always do.
Just when you think you're done and you're ready for paint, you'll find another area with exposed fiberglass weave that needs to be filled!
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Yep. But little by little we are getting closer to being done. The next time (God forbid there is a next time), I will know a whole lot better what to do.
I have just used a cheap sandable primer in the past as a guide coat. Just mist it all over. I have used it over total fair and not had any problems.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I've heard that but with my luck it will be the one primer that will kill any bond I will have with the future coatings. I am very reluctant to get off the straight and narrow with paints and primers. Appreciate it.
@daviddailey4959
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 call Jamestown Distributors, their tech support is phenomenal. I understand the reluctance Oscar, you have put a ton of work in that hull, good stuff buddy.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I’m going to do that. I’ll let you know what they say. Maybe I can beat a sponsorship out of them.
Once again-super helpful video (and very nicely produced)
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks again!
Hard work for sure, but it looks good and you’re making progress. 😎
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
That's the plan! Appreciate it!
Would renting a Air long board sander help you out More then over working your Arms?
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Maybe, but for how long. If I was working the boat every day it would probably make sense. This last video was probably over about a three week span where I think I got about 3 total days of working on the boat and one day for only about an hour. It just doesn't make sense. I really don't mind the physical part of the sanding. It's a fine teacher. Appreciate the options though.
Wet it out with water and a drop of soap, you can see anny humps and bumps in the reflection
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
May give that a try. Appreciate the tip.
@ErikKrijthe
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 Great project by the way think you're doing a pretty good job
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
@@ErikKrijthe I appreciate it. Just doing the best I can with the knowledge and experience that I am gaining. This one and one more will be two I've built.
You got some patience Idd be using orbital and longboard air sander She looks awesome coming together bro. I got full confidence that this is going too end up with a good finish
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks 👍
@michaelfisher9829
Жыл бұрын
One suggestion would be to tint each layer of fairing compound. It will help too better see the highs and lows
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I kind of feel like that's what I have now, which is multiple layers and/or colors of compound because event he same product doesn't always come out the same tint. I'm thinking about taking the whole thing to high build just to get it back to the same color.
@michaelfisher9829
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 The boat is really looking good. My dad used to work for Chris Craft. The contrasting helped to really show the highs and lows. Best of luck.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Man those old Chris crafts were awesome. Appreciate the advice. I’m listening I promise.