Man I was waiting for a year and a half for this thing, finally delivered yesterday. It surprised me how small it is in person, it's on a whole new level compared to the other controllers out there, it even looks bigger looking at it in these videos, the package was very small.

@de-bodgery

Жыл бұрын

A lot has changed since I made these videos! The latest firmware for the LCD and controller is still more or less "like" this, but a lot has changed as well. These controllers are pretty hard to get outside of Russia what with all the sanctions!

@testtor2714

9 ай бұрын

@@de-bodgery They opened a Hong Kong company to sell them though. Still a problem?

@de-bodgery

9 ай бұрын

@@testtor2714 THat's probably good for getting these controllers.

Finally did get this thihng to work... holy hell is it a beast when it works. I know its not totally dialed in right. Im looking at your Phase amps etc. With a 72v batter whats the highest amps I should go? like right now on setting three I have it set to 500 amps is this way too high?

@de-bodgery

Жыл бұрын

What's your pack capable of delivering? That's what you set battery amps to.

Can you edit power settings like this using asi bac controllers ?? Thanks

@de-bodgery

2 жыл бұрын

what are you asking about? This video is for the Nucular controllers, not ASI controllers.

Hi man, thanks for you video, Ive ordered 2 kits of 24 fet. I was wondering if you could explain to me how I can charge from the controller (I saw the diagram but still not sure). Do you need a power supply? I saw a guy (cyberbike) that just plugs his bike, but between the plug and the controller, is there something? Thank you!

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

I don't use this functionality. I use an independent charger. There are implications to using the motor and controller for charging. I chose to NOT do this. Building a charger is easy or just buy one and save yourself the oddities this brings to an EV. This is just not something I'll ever use. To answer your questions... The motor is 3 large inductors. The controller uses it's mosfets and the motor to create a high current DC-DC BOOST converter. A BOOST converter up converts a lower DC voltage into a higher DC voltage. You can buy small DC-DC BOOST converters on ebay for around $20. So then, you need a power supply such as a 50 amp 12v PSU. It gets connected to the controller which then up-converts that 12v to your battery pack voltage. Why I don't do this: 1. It adds complexity to the controller and motor setup. 2. It's pretty inefficient. You will need to down convert from 120v AC to something like 12-24v DC and then up-convert back to pack voltage. Why bother? Just down convert 120v AC to pack voltage one time for the best case charging efficiency.

@matthiasvaillancourt8877

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks for the great and clear answer. Now I know I wont try to charge that way and I know why! What do you think about progressive regen?

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

@@matthiasvaillancourt8877 I use variable regen as my primary method of braking. My first EV had a freewheel on it so the back wheel spun free of the motor for coasting. I wanted regen. I always want regen so I recover mechanical energy as electrical energy. I soon bought a controller that supported this and of course ditched the freewheel. That was 2015. I've been using regen on all my EV builds since then. I refuse to build without regen. Why waste the energy of slowing down when it adds miles to your tide time? It's not miraculous and you will only recover like 20% of your original charge, but hey, I'll take every extra mile I can get! Especially free recovered miles!!! Nucular controllers and others support variable regen via a second throttle or fixed regen when you hit the brakes or just let go of the throttle. I variable regen much more than I ever did fixed regen. With fixed regen, I would set it in the controller to whatever would let me coast down a minor slope. This got me some recovered energy without having to use power to roll down hills. With variable regen, I have it set up so that regen is capable of decelerating just as hard as I can accelerate. This means pretty aggressive regenerative braking. With the regen throttle, I can then adjust how much I slow down. Sometimes the car in front of me is slowing just a little so a light amount of regen is all I need. Sometimes I need to brake really hard and then I crank that regen throttle. Under most situations, I squeeze my right brake lever just enough to turn on the brake light and then do all the actual braking via regen. It's ONLY when I need seriously aggressive braking that I turn the regen throttle and squeeze both brake levers. Variable regen is a great thing to have!

@matthiasvaillancourt8877

3 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks bro for all the answers and explications again. Very interesting and it will help me a lot knowing what to do now. So ya I know what you mean about a fix regen, really not nice to use I think (cuz you can only choose one value at a time) and also it give a little hit in the wheel every time so it’s not fluid at all, that’s why we can regen way more with progressive regen. Im hesitating between qs205 v3 50h (85 pounds bike) and qs273 40h (105 pounds) I use good dh bike, and my target is to do 0-100kph (60 mph) in 3.5-4 secondes.. if ever you have a suggestion, im really open! 27kw peak for 5 sec I think its more then enough to achive it? Thanks!

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

@@matthiasvaillancourt8877 I have suggestions! 1. I don't use hub motors if I can avoid them! They do have advantages, but at significant cost. 2. Hub motors for the cost and weight are the worst solution for powering an EV. They are heavy and tons of spinning mass is bad for everything. 3. Hub motors are going to have very high turn counts in order to get the low Kv needed to match wheel RPM. This makes phase resistances quite high compared to an inrunner or outrunner. Resistance = heat losses! 4. A 4kw QS205 v3 (I have one) weighs almost 40 pounds! A 4kw outrunner weighs 2 pounds and is 1/8th the physical size. A 4kw inrunner is about 6-8 pounds and 1/5th the size of the QS205. Weight...even fixed weight is a loss of performance to you and hubs ARE the worst! 5. Hub motors suck at cooling. The stator sees no air flow and has no direct path to outside air for cooling. The stator is trapped inside dead air space. All heat exchange has to happen via conduction through dead air to the aluminum shell or to the magnet ring. This is BAD in many ways! An outrunner is open. Good air flow to the stator is guaranteed by the spinning armature. Inrunners have the stator in physical contact with the motor shell. Heat exchange with external air is guaranteed. Hub motors absolutely suck at cooling! 6. To enhance hub motor cooling, fero fluid or mineral oil is often times used inside the motor. Either option is messy and adds resistance to an already HEAVY motor. They do make for a better heat conductor than air, but leaks happen and then you are spraying nasty crap everywhere. IF you ever need to service the motor, you first need to get rid of the mess. No thank you! Even then, you still need to add heat sinks to the magnet ring area. In every way I can think of this is a poor solution to cooling. 7. The only way I'll run a hub motor is with vented side covers. This potentially exposes the motor to road grime and water. Better than nasty oil and ferro fluid, but the motor can get dirty inside. 8. A 4kw hub motor such as the QS205 will cost you $500. I have this exact motor. I bought it purely out of curiosity and by comparison to a $500 outrunner, a far inferior option! www.aliexpress.com/item/1845650900.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.40624c04fjiacf&algo_pvid=7a5fea23-3ee2-40ca-a272-6269f7b1bb3e&algo_expid=7a5fea23-3ee2-40ca-a272-6269f7b1bb3e-1&btsid=0bb0623916045172188502224e9caf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 9. A 4kw outrunner such as the C80100 at 80kv will cost you including shipping about $200. I have 4 or 5 of these motors. alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/80mm/c80100-sensored-outrunner-brushless-motor-80kv-7000w/ 10. A hub motor has fixed gearing. The only way you can adjust for the motor Kv and torque is with a smaller or larger tire/rim. If a larger or smaller tire is available for your rim, this still requires removing the back wheel to replace the tire. If you also need to replace the rim, then you need to restring the wheel with a new rim. An inrunner or outrunner and a couple of sprockets allows for easy re-gearing for whatever it is you are wanting to do and a low maintenance chain line. On most of my EV's, I can loosen chain tension and pull the motor sprocket off the motor in less than 5 minutes. Increasing or decreasing a tooth on this sprocket changes EV performance significantly. Maybe 20 minutes later with doing nothing other than loosening chain tension and a couple of set screws on the sprocket, I have changed my gear ratio. Accommodating a 26" tire or a 6" tire is just different gear ratios and the same motor. IMHO, this is MUCH easier to do than anything on a hub motor. 11. A hub motor is nearly silent as the only noise is from the winding's pulsing. A mid-drive adds sprockets and chain or a belt which does make more noise. Done right with 219 chain and dead straight this is still very quiet. Most chain noise is poor chain and sprocket alignment or cheap chain choices. For example T8F chain in perfect alignment is much noisier than 219 in perfect alignment. 12. A hub motor does have ease of installation going for it. Assuming your dropouts can handle all the motor torque on the shaft flats, then it's a matter of sliding the motor onto the forks and doing a little wiring and you are done. Adding torque arms doesn't add a lot of complexity either. 14. Unsprung weight is your enemy. A hub motor is 100% unsprung weight and a giant gyroscope right inside your wheel. Ride quality, responsiveness of the suspension and other components all suffer for this big hunk of spinning metal in you back wheel. A mid-drive solution while having a bit more complexity can place almost all the bikes weight inside the suspension and diminishes spinning masses to a very small portion of the total EV weight. 15. Hub motors are slow spinning. It is common knowledge that brushless motors are most efficient at higher RPMs. A typical hub motor might achieve 200-1300 RPMs while an inrunner or outrunner will spin at more like 3000-6000 RPMs. *** I could go on a while about why hub motors suck and why outrunners are the best option, but I think by now you get the point. I'm not a fan of hub motors for many reasons and the added complexity of a chain line is no deterrent to me to using an outrunner in a mid-drive configuration every chance I get. I have personally built or heavily modded 8 EV's. 2 still have hub motors. The others all use outrunners. The performance gains from outrunners and significant cost and weight savings far outweigh the added complexity of a chain line and the minimal maintenance chain needs. I own several hub motors (10+). Most will never see use! A few that I have will get reworked to take away tons of weight and then rewound for 60-70kv and used as an outrunner in a mid-drive configuration. One of these as a hub will make a piddly 500 watts. Converted into an outrunner and rewound it becomes a 10kw motor. On this stator, 32 turns per tooth gets 8kv and 2 strands of 20 awg wire. UGG!!! At 10 turns or about 80kv, now there is room for 14 strands of 20 awg and MUCH MORE wattage. *** If you are doing a fresh EV build don't use the worst possible motor solution. Hub motors are expensive, heavy and very low power density. Use something good that delivers optimal performance for very little weight and cost. Outrunners are the BOMB!

Is the 16/1 ratio for the 48T sprocket if so what is it for 56T or how would I find it out please help

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

It's jsut a gear ratio. Set it to whatever you have. So if you have a 56T sprocket put that in there instead. 16:1 could a 160t sprocket and a 16T sprocket....or whatever. These are totally settable values. Since I'm using a hub motor, my ratio is 16:16 or 1:1 or 1356:1356. As long as the ratio you have is preserved that's what matters.

can you have preset modes for example street legal mode and offraod mode?

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

Short answer: yes Longer answer: set up the 3 speeds modes so at the flip of a 3 position switch, you can access whatever power and speed settings you program into the controller. *** I've heard rumors about European cops being somewhat tech savvy. Hide your switch so they can't find it. The switch needs maybe 200mA contacts so it can be quite small. In the USA, the cops are pretty lazy. They know nothing about your EV. So just avoid getting caught for speeding and you are OK. Even then, they are usually watching cars and motor cycles, not people on bicycles and scooters. I've ridden past parked cops with their lidar/radar guns trained on traffic and rode right by with the traffic.

I could not get this thing to work with my bike. I kept getting Hal sensor errors and my throttle does not work for whatever reason. Throttle worked fine with the stock controller. Now how do I return this hunk of junk to Russia =[

@de-bodgery

Жыл бұрын

PM me on facebook...Richard Gumfaw. Lets see what you have. Might be easy to get it going or worst case, if you have one of the new versions of the 24 fet, I might buy it from you.

@marcussmith4913

Жыл бұрын

@@de-bodgery okay thank you sir I will Pm you later when im free.

Can you make a video on how to set a password for the Nucular Controller, Thanks

@de-bodgery

3 жыл бұрын

Here's the docs page for Nucular. Feel free to read them. wiki.nucular.tech/en:display-setup