You should heat up the block before removing the heat break (so you don't break it) and also tighten the nozzle while it's at the highest temp you print at or you're going to have a leak.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

So I took a propane torch to the stock heat block to try and get it off with no luck as well. That being said I know that the thread lock should weaken when hot but I had no luck. As for tightening the nozzle fully when it's up to temp, that is how I normally change out any of my nozzles. I thought that was common knowledge but thinking about that more, I should have talked about that in the video seeing that people new to this wouldn't know that. Anyways thanks for the comment and info. 😁👍

@thorntontarr2894

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay Thanks for your update on Mark's first point and while I too only tighten nozzles when hot, your recognition of a novice's knowledge shows you do understand the point and why you should have commented about it. Well done, mate.

@zhennik263

Жыл бұрын

Thermal block costs 2$, not even 8. It is easyer to buy barrier and block together

@eaman11

8 ай бұрын

@@randymay Don't use a blow torch, just heat the extruder as usual and then wiggle the heat breaker gently and then unscrew it. Run a PID each time you mess around there.

Dude thank you for making a video about this, I've been looking for a teardown / tutorial about how to replace the hot end on this printer for weeks, now I can upgrade my printer without having to worry if elegoo used some non standard parts. I'm also way more confident that ill be able to fix the printer if the nozzel ever gets clogged up. So overall thank you and I hope your channel gets the recognition it deserves in the 3d printer community because this video was very well made and very information.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Well thank you very much and I'm happy to hear that this video has been that helpful for you. 😁👍 If you want to help with growing the channel feel free to share any of my videos if you find them to be useful to others.

Hey man, your video was super helpful/insightful. Love how clear sounding your audio is, and your style of delivery is perfect - not draggy and straight to the point. Thanks!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks and that is the goal of this channel for the most part. I've got sick of seeing videos that just waste your time and get to the point after 20 minutes.

I found that removing the 2 screws that hold fan shroud but waiting to disconnect the fan wires and remove the shroud until after you remove the whole assembly from the printer makes removing the fan wires then the fan shroud much easier. But thank you for the tutorial and the links for the parts. Very helpful

Legitimately this is what I've been looking for over the course of days. Thank you!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I've seen a lot of talk about it so I just took the plunge bought the stuff and did it. So hopefully this is helpful to a lot of people now and I'm happy that you were able to find the video. 😊👍

This was a lot of help. I recently broke off my nozzle when tightening it. Then I tried to use a screw extractor and cracked the whole block 🤦 This video helped me with the disassembly and it also gave me some tips when I'm gonna buy a new one. Thanks for the great video /Bo Ps. The problem was a bulge in the filament so the extruder couldn't feed it in. I of course realized this efter I broke the nozzle.

Thank you so much for this. My 3D prints had started having more and more errors, so I took a look at the condition of the nozzle. It was ... unsatisfactory. I have new hot ends, a new heat block, M2 bolts, and different sizes of nozzles on the way, thanks to your advice. :)

@dracosummoner

4 ай бұрын

My materials arrived today. Printer is happily printing a little happy Buddha (personally I always thought it was Budai since Siddhartha wasn't fat). I don't think I've ever fully disassembled and reassembled anything at this level of complexity before, and it's all thanks to you. Thank you so much.

@dracosummoner

4 ай бұрын

I don't suppose you would happen to be able to help with this, but for some reason, my heat block is now covered in what looks like caramelized residue, as was the old one. Do you think my silicone heat cover may have partially melted somehow?

yo you really saved my ass man. i lost a nozzle that broke off in the heat block i was loosing my mind, thank you

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

I'm happy I was able to help in around about way haha 👍

Thanks for this. Went with the Copperhead and copper block. Right now I just want the headroom this affords and the ability to print more exotic like material down the road. Appreciate the video. Thank you.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

No problem and let me know how that all turns out

@jayfc3

Жыл бұрын

I know it's been ahile but I think I may have finally gotten it working well. I had intially taken it back out because I experienced clogging. Reinstalled it all and PID tuned, then ran an elaborate retraction file. Upped retractions from 2 to 3(.5?) and so far so good. Upped retraction speed as well from 60 to 120 and it works, the test said it would, but I'm still feeling that's high. Anyway, thanks again.

@JackOiswatching

Жыл бұрын

@@jayfc3 I noticed retraction issues after this upgrade as well and was able to drastically reduce hot end temperature. Did you see a similar effect?

Nice video! I just got the N3pro for Christmas been working awesome but the screen lock up on me and the touch screen doesn’t work now..lot of people said to up the firmware..and thought you might want to make a video on that to help me and others out thanks

Just stick the heatblock on a gas stove, or heat reaaaly hot with a propane torch to melt up the thread locker...then unscrew so it won't snap off the thin neck of the heatblock

@randymay

6 ай бұрын

I used a torch and it didn't help and I didn't want to over do it and melt the aluminum

Thanks a bunch dude! Very nicely done tut on how to do it and thank you so much for including a parts list! Saves me a bunch of headache and time, superb!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Glad I could help! 😁👍

@jubb1984

Жыл бұрын

Every part is as advertised =) forgot to buy the damn screws tho, gotta wait a few more days xD dammit DONT forget to buy the screws...apparently they are super uncommon in shops nowadays (at least where i live).

One of the best printer videos I have seen, saved for future use :)

@randymay

9 ай бұрын

Well I'm happy to hear that 😁👍

Great info. ALWAYS do a PID tune after making changes on the hotend (even just removing the silicone sock).

Right on point, AMAZING editing and very clear video, kudos to you sir! 🙂

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks 😁

Title says $25 upgrade but like the guy I have none of the odd stuff so need to buy a whole pack of stuff 🤣will add everything from the description and do a stupidly large amazon order aha great video :)

At 1:46 , you should apply a lot of thermal paste there. the whole copper(cold side) should be covered in thermal paste. Over time when its cold & heat up repeatedly the surface contact will have a gap. It might have filament heat creep & stringing soon. There is no way they can manufacture(heatbreak & heatsink) it with 0 tolerance. Unless its a 1 piece hotend like bambu. So thermal paste is necessary in modular hotend for heat transfer. DO NOT USE LIQUID METAL as paste. It will put hole in your aluminium heatsink. Use boron nitride for best performance. If it hard to get, you can use thermal grizzly kryonaut from most pc shop. It will help extrusion & retraction become accurate. Meaning your print will become more beautiful just by applying thermal paste.

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

Yeah it would definitely help with heat transfer and I believe I said that you can add it if you like but I can't remember. I do have links to some in the description of the video.

@varkanoid

10 ай бұрын

Sorry dont quite understand where should the thermal paste go ?

I too have to go for this modification with all metal filament insertion eliminating that 'obnoxious plastic tube that has caused me considerable problems and not only to me. I have a Kobra first series and I have done several trials installing the Kobra2 extruder but in the end I was not successful. When I first insert the filament it goes through smoothly but at the time of printing it does not come out properly. Solutions? Thank you very much.

@randymay

29 күн бұрын

You are still going to want to put that tube back in there just to act as a guide it will work without it but it works a lot easier to align your filament down into the hot end after switching it out. You'll need to cut the tube down to about 30 mm

nozzle keep hitting the bed after this upgrade. ... do we need to adjust ABL sensor as well?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Make sure to measure all of your new parts and make sure that they're the same size as the original ones.

That was an excellent video, short but to the point and well put together. Thanks!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks 😁 happy to help

@moji3812

Жыл бұрын

Yeah👌

You should heat up the heatbreak before removal, use a ligther or heatgun, mine becomes so loose you can unscrew it without tools, just don't burn yourself.

Great video. I want that boba fett STL!

I've done the upgrade. I manually leveled my bed and hit out level and the printer screen is stuck on booting. any idea what I did wrong? is this why I need to do that PID tune?

Auch ich muss mich für diese Modifikation mit Ganzmetall-Filamenteinführung entscheiden, um das unangenehme kleine Plastikröhrchen zu eliminieren, das mir erhebliche Probleme bereitet hat, und nicht nur mir. Ich habe einen Kobra der ersten Serie und habe verschiedene Tests durchgeführt, indem ich den Kobra2-Extruder installiert habe, aber am Ende war ich nicht erfolgreich. Wenn ich das Filament zum ersten Mal einführe, geht es problemlos durch, aber wenn ich drucke, kommt es nicht richtig heraus. Gibt es Lösungen? Ich danke Ihnen vielmals.

Black & Decker were bought out years back by DeWalt. You could use the same batteries on either brand, thought that was funny. Not sure if it is still this way. It was about 25 yeas back.

this was awesome...buuuuut, :) i did everything you did except changing the thermistor but now my nozzle does not heat up in time and my printer yells at me. any ideas?

@randymay hey man it turns out I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat pipe thing. But I was able to just use a angle grinder to change the length.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Well I'm happy to hear that you're able to at least get it working and figure out what the problem was

Hey 2 questions. When I thread the heat brake into the block there’s not much thread on the other side for the nozzle. Did I do something wrong. And 2nd when I just put in the metal heat brake it’s hard for the filament to go into the hole. I’ve actuslly been unsuccessful at getting it to work at all.

I did this upgrade but when I did the Thermistor the nozzle temperature can't hold at target, keeps going above or below

Thanks for this! Had already ordered the heatbreak and block from your previous video, looking foreword to putting everything in action soon! Based on your measurements from the last video, I've ordered some 2020 extrusion and connectors to build the enclosure frame. I've got a pre-cut 32" x 42" plywood base to build everything on.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Very nice let me know how all that stuff turns out once everything comes in. 😁👍

This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for making this video.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

No problem and I'm happy to hear that it was helpful. 😁

@randymay Hey I followed the tutorial and got a new heatblock but I am haveing issues with my nozzle pushing into the bed when I try to auto level the printer. Any ideas?

@yosomoghty

Жыл бұрын

This happens while it is returning to zero

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

If you can use some digital calipers and measure your heat block and your old heat block and make sure they're the same thickness other than that you need to make sure things are screwed in flush when it comes to the heat break into the heat block.

@yosomoghty

Жыл бұрын

Ok thank you, I’ll try it and let you know how it works.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Ok

It would be so cool if you did a series fully upgrading the Neptune 3 max to the ultimate large high temperature printer 😅

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

Yeah that would be cool but also very time consuming. That being said I might need to get it setup to print ASA and Nylon for a large project I'm wanting to do for the channel.

@Oblithian

5 ай бұрын

Elegoo should just sell the components as an after purchase upgrade.

Did you replace the TPFE extrusion feeder back into it?

@randymay

18 күн бұрын

I did you just need to cut it down to about 30 mm long and it will just act as a guide now.

Hello my friend. Thanks for your video. I have a little question for you. How can I increase the nozzle max temperature using software? I want to print at 300 degrees with my printer.

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

According to Elegoo if you update the firmware to the newest one you can print at higher temps

@s0d4c4n

8 ай бұрын

I have not found a single person who has successfully got the firmware to go over 260c. I spent a lot of time and money trying.

Are there any upgrade thermistors that come pre-equipped with the proper connector. I'm not the most technical person in the world and while I think I could make it work I'd be willing to pay a few dollars extra for the peace of mind.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

I wasn't able to find any with the proper connector but cutting the original wires and soldering this on was very easy to be honest

After doing all the steps exactly on a neptune 3 max, I cannot get the filament in :( the little curvature the filament has makes it stuck in the heat break. it seems there`s a gap between the new hot-en and the aluminium heat break... I`m not sure how to proceed - trying to reuse bits of the PTFE lining does not help :/ Anyone with similar issues ?

@randymay

5 ай бұрын

Cut the PTFE tube down to about 30 mm and put it in it'll act as a guide.

How did you make the bimetal hotend snug on the all copper heat block? There's a lot of play unless if i screw it completely in, but then the heat block is sitting on the extruder.

This video is super well done and perfectly concise, thank you! Quick question, you mentioned using an enclosure, which is what I want to do for my N3 Pro, but I know it’s recommended to move the PSU outside the enclosure for most printers, is that the case here? Or can the stock PSU hold up in the hotter environment? Thank you again!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Yeah it is always best to keep the PSU cooler but you really don't have to worry about it in my experience. Typically the enclosures get to around 100° f .

@GR-jd8re

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay oh awesome thank you!

This is GREAT! Thank you! I literally bought an SV06 in addition to a Neptune 3 Pro, because the SV06 can go up to 300 degrees stock. I'm going to use my N3Pro to print TPU and lower temp filaments. But I love the idea I can so easily swap my N3Pro over to high temp. I may be buying some of these parts just to keep on hand, just in case.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Honestly not a bad plan and yeah being able to upgrade it for fairly cheap is nice as well so you can have two high temp printers.

@float32

Жыл бұрын

How do you like the SV06 compare to the N3Pro? I would have had an SV06 if they were in stock at the time.

@MrOrange645

Жыл бұрын

@@float32 I just got my SV06 a week ago and haven't had much time to play with it, but I love it so far. My N3Pro should be here tomorrow.

@loc4725

Жыл бұрын

@@float32 I was going to buy an SV06 but the growing screams on Reddit over their hit & miss build quality have put me off. And now I know how to upgrade the '3 Pro there for me at least really isn't any advantage.

@Chlef

Жыл бұрын

@@loc4725 i bought an sv06 and i have not had 1 successful print yet. i was told its such a good printer and that its the best printer for beginners, yeah no its horrible. ive tried everything to fix it and nothings worked. i plan on returning it and buying a neptune 3 pro.

Another great video. keep up the great work.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Well thank you and that's the plan haha 😁👍

I made the upgrade (Neptune 3+) with the solid copper heat block, all Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, and the ptfe tube. Halfway through a next print it blocked up and I had to take it apart again. What might have caused it with Elegoo PLA? Also, I am doing a flat print and the surface is now not as smooth as it was before the upgrade. Any thoughts what I am doing wrong? UPDATE: I cannot get it to print successfully now. A print starts and after a while no more filament comes out. I am so frustrated. @randymay

@ArkySouls

2 ай бұрын

I did the same thing and it instantly clogged up. No idea what to do now. Probably gonna go back to stock block tbh.

@Randy May. Reviewing your parts list. I noted that some of them are for Creality printers, perhaps the parts are all the same, it would be handy to be aware of that.. for the novice, details can matter.. Perhaps updating the notes or updating the video to be more specific on what parts maybe needed... Support for many of these printers seems hard to come by... and the clearer the information the better for all. This video is pretty good, but adding a few more details would not hurt either.. it's sort of scary to start repairing one's Elegoo printer.. so far other than some minor printing issues, I don't think I need to start changing parts, but one ever knows when it might be needed.. thanks

@randymay

8 ай бұрын

Yeah the Creality parts I listed fit the Elegoo printer in the video

Can I use these same links to replace the parts on my Neptune 4 plus?

I noticed some of the bimetal heatbreaks have different lengths the one you linked eg is 20mm (copper section), but the one available on amazon AU is 13.5mm. Would this matter?

Question for you. I did this and now for some reason the printer isn’t trying on at all. The fuse is perfect the power switch lights up but nothing happens

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

Did you ever fix this problem? Doing this shouldn't do anything like that to the printer

@marshallellis6222

10 ай бұрын

@@randymay my board died elegoo is sending a new one

Thank you for this video. Has anyone had a problem getting your N3P calibrated after doing this? I adjusted the height then ran the auto calibrate and the nozzle hits the bed and pushes on it so far that I can see the plate move down. The whole nozzle assembly is lower than stock and its like machine can't "sense" that it is touching the bed. I ended up having to go back to stock as it was unusable. EDIT: Just read the newest comments and seems like I'm not alone. For what its worth I'm using the Copperhead heat break C-E, and the High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block listed in the video description.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

You might need to check all the parts you got to make sure everything is the same size. Because if anything is longer thicker then you will run into problems.

@philmaiewski1257

11 ай бұрын

@@randymay But in your video you say the set up required longer screws. Was that a consequence of the specific heat block's holes not being sunk as far as the stock, or the heat throat being longer than the stock one?

@donnbrasco31

10 ай бұрын

@@philmaiewski1257 I just took mine apart and the stock heat block's screw holes are set quite a bit farther than the one he replaces it with. I don't have it on hand yet. Just looking at the one in the video.

Thank you for sharing. This helped me a lot.

late to the party, but would anyone know if this would fit on the neptune 3 basic, not the pro, max or plus, just the neptune 3 model.

Very well detailed thank you. Just received my Max a few weeks ago and may consider this upgrade as i do ABS from time to time

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Let me know if you end up doing it and how it works out for you. I did find that it started to under extrude a little bit so you might need to tune your retraction settings after doing this. A good starting point is 1 mm retraction at 27 mm per second.

@Spirited282

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay Thank you i will for sure

The 2 bolts (allen head) holding the heater block to the hot end assembly, what size are those? Most of the allen head bolts to remove the fan assembly and the hot end were 2mm, but these two INSIDE the heater block appear to be smaller? Even smaller than the 1.5mm allen I had. Very confused here...

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

I honestly don't remember 😅

Well I ended up having to try doing this on my printer, as the original had a major clog (Filled up the silicon cover and made that all useless.). Unfortunately, even with the snippet of the tubing, I couldn't get this to reliably feed the nozzle without it jamming up near the motor (Looks like it just binds up and bunches the filament up in the internals).

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

What material and temps are you printing at?

@iamlocknar

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay just pla, 210. Its almost like it goes into the feed and scrapes the edges until it sticks and then the motor crumples the filament into itself.

@RealJerz

11 ай бұрын

Did you put the blue filament back in ?

Clear and concise. However, have you investigate either the Volcano style hot end or the multi-port nozzles? I am keen to print faster rather than print hotter.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks and I haven't really looked into different hot end setups for this. I know that if your doing to print faster you are going to want more heat to keep up with the flow of the filament.

The thermistor you had in you listing could be causing me grief. I cannot do any printing as I get a thermal runaway error now. :(

Do you have a tutorial for doing the thermistor wire clips?

@randymay

9 ай бұрын

I don't

By default there a small cut of tube inside the hot end. Do you not need to add that piece with this heat break? Shouldn't there still be a tube pressing against the bottom of the heat break?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

The point of this is to remove that tube from the hottest part of the hotend assembly. You can cut the default tubing down to about 30mm in length and put it back in to make it easier for the filament to get to the top of the heat break.

you always disassemble using heat they don't use Loctite. Its the melted plastic I use a propane torch or heat it up with the heater on the printer .

Hi there - was wondering how you would suggest proceeding as I have just opened the unit and noticed that a) the PTFE has become exposed slightly away from tubing, b) the whole unit head seems to have been decaying after only a few weeks of use, and c) I cant actually remove the heating rod....

Thanks very much. Well done. Do you have a video that shows how to adjust the Z-offset anywhere? Do you have a video on how to use the Neptune 3 (plu) anywhere for newbies?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. I don't have any videos showing how to use the z-offset but I think it can be found under leveling or tuning when printing.

Does thus make it so you don't need the ptfe tube at all now?

@randymay

3 ай бұрын

You don't need it but it does help a lot to keep it. You do have to cut it down to about 30mm long

@bdc7273

3 ай бұрын

@@randymay can I print at the higher temps with it still? I'm aiming for 300 degrees

Where are the parts you mentioned would be in the description down below, particularly the 0.4mm filament heeded name, model#, seller?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself: All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2 Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7 JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to: Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support

So I'm a novice to working on the print head and all the parts associated with it so I have a question: When replacing the HeatBreak and the Heat Block, do i need to put the blue tube back in the Heatbreak like it was when i take it off?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

It's best if you put the PTFE tube back in to make it easier to load filament. That being said you do need to cut it down to about 30mm so it will fit.

Yeeesssss awesome!!! Thank you mate 😊

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, let me know if you end up doing this.

You can use the Ender 3s1 pro 300c thermistor, but it seems to require drilling into the heat block.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Good to know.

With the upgrade are you still using the PTFE tube? It doesn't look like that gets installed on the new copper head.

@randymay

Ай бұрын

It makes it a lot easier if you do install it again but you do have to cut it down to be about 30 mm long it pretty much acts as a guide

@AngelVirusX

Ай бұрын

@@randymay Thank you. Will the base PTFE be enough for the extra heat you would be putting it all through?

@randymay

Ай бұрын

It will be fine because it wouldn't be all the way down in the heat block anymore.

Привет, как смог поставить 280 градусов? У меня не получается. Прошивка последняя. Какая у вас стоит прошивка?

Would you have a video on the settings you use for the Max and Plus? I don't see a profile for them in Cura.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

I don't but you can download the Elegoo version of Cura and get all that info if you like. Here is the link drive.google.com/file/d/1fLB4Z-bNiXrswew_Bic5BTAtMd5Ku3U6/view

Hello my friend, first of all thank you for the great video you shared with us. I would like to ask you few more questions, I just got into 3d printing few months ago and I'm the average noob user so my questions might be silly: - I've read somewhere online that it is recommended to change the PTFE tube every month (i've never done it so far and have consumed 3KG of PLA so far), should I do that? If I upgrade the hotend like you in the video with the all-metal, that does not "burn" the PTFE anymore, so I should not replace that, is that correct? - Can you make also a video on how to dismount all the roller wheels in case they wear out? I was able only to reach and disassembly only the print-plate wheels, but probably the wheels on the print head I can dismount them after dismounting the print head, but what about the Z Axis? There's one wheel per side on the Z Axis I am not able to understand how to disassembly. Thank you so much in advance for your help man

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

If you upgrade the hot end to what I did you won't need to change out the tube pretty much ever unless you wear a hole in it.

Can I use this on the Neptune 4 plus? Any help appreciated, had the stock hotend/extruder explode with plan

Why do you it need the blue tube on the new one? The metal parts are the same length? I just ordered all these pieces, but want to make sure I understand it all. Thanks!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

You can use it without the blue tub but it will make it harder to load the filament. I suggest cutting the tube to about 30mm long and put it back in and you will be fine.

You need to update some of your links as they point to discontinued products.

Thank you for the tutorial! When fusing the thermistor cables, do i have to look after the polarity?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks and it doesn't seem to matter which cable goes to what wire.

Is it a MK8 or M6 nozzle? And thank you for the video for sure 👋

I heard if you do this you need to run a PID tune. Is this true? And any video on how to do the PID tune.

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

Yeah you should do some PID tuning but I don't have a video about it. I'm sure you can find something about this on KZread.

My hotend screw is rounded, so I can't unscrew it. This printer is a pain since I am experimenting a lot of clogs, and now I can't even change the teflon tube. Any advice for solving this?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

Is this your first printer? Also are you using the supplied Allen keys that came with it because they like to strip out if you can get your hands on some better quality ones you might still be able to get that screw out without having to drill it out. I'm assuming you're printing in pla but what temperatures are you using and how cold is the room that you're printing in.

I have been having nothing but issues with that copperhead heat break. Does the bowden tube need to be firmly pressed against each end as to not have it move? Because there is a tiny amount of play, which is enough for it to build up a thin disk. That cools and clogs the heat break. I tried removing the bowden tube all together. And all that happens is the filament curls in a spiral in the inner chamber of the heat break. Till it's not able to curl anymore, which leads to it not feeding anymore. I had to put the stock heat break back because I was sick of having to keep tearing down the hotend to unclog the heat break. I messed about with retraction all the way down to 1mm of retraction with zero change in stringing from the stock slicer settings of 6mm (temp tower also didn't yield any change in stringing as well). And even then it still clogged. Whereas the stock heat break runs flawlessly. What am I doing wrong with the copperhead heat break for it to keep clogging. I thought that thing was supposed to stop clogging, all it has been doing is clog. Thanks!

Jus a FYI - the link to the 2-pack of heatbreaks is a slightly different product. Notice the taper at the bottom end of the copper. This causes the heatbreak to thread too far down into the heater block, whereas the nozzle has no threads to grab on to on the other side. If you back out the heatbreak a bit, the threads are quite loose and wobbly, so that wouldn't work. TLDR: DON'T buy the 2-pack: "AIEX 2pcs All Metal Smooth Heatbreak"

@randymay

6 ай бұрын

They must have changed the item listing at some point I'll have to find the proper one and have that link updated

Thanks for the video! I would like to know please: will all these changes and parts work in a Neptune 3?…I really want to upgrade one of my N3 to be able to print ASA…thanks in advance if you can answer this question!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Yeah you should be able to use these on that printer as well.

Thanks for this. Lots of interest in it~~!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

No problem 👍

Have you switched to a larger nozzle? If so, what settings did you change to?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

I did used a 0.8mm nozzle and all I did was use the default profile and changed the nozzle size in the slicer. I did fine that I needed to mess with the retraction a bit due to it under extruding a lot but that was it.

Added these mods to my Neptune 2s and they work great. Getting ready to do this on my 3 Plus soon. Does the PTFE tube serve any feeding function in the Neptune 3 printers? The upgraded heatbreaks don't have the deep "cutout" for the tubing to be inserted, but there is a little bit. In the video, you seem to leave it out entirely, so I'm guessing you no longer need it at all. Just wondered if it should be cut shorter. When the filament is loaded, it won't bind in the direct drive system?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

So the PTFE tube does help when loading the filament so if you cut it down to about 30mm it fits back in there and helps.

@BryanBalak

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thank you!

This video helped a lot! The only problem I'm having is that when I set my temperature to anything over 260 in cura, my hot end will not heat up at all. If I try anything under 260, it does just fine though.

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

Have you updated the firmware on the printer?

@tylorkelly168

9 ай бұрын

@randymay Yes. I updated it maybe 2 months ago

@s0d4c4n

8 ай бұрын

I have not seen a single person that has been able to get the firmware to go over 260. I spent a lot of time and money trying.

@randymay

8 ай бұрын

Have you tried emailing Elegoo and asking if they had a solution?

@s0d4c4n

8 ай бұрын

@@randymay I'll be happy to invest more time in this if I get confirmation that at least one other person has actually done this in real life

Great video!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I'm happy to hear that you like it and hope that it makes this a little easier if you're planning on doing this.

Doesn't it need PTFE tube?

@randymay

8 ай бұрын

Need? No but I found out it makes it a lot easier to load. Cut the ptfe tube to about 30mm and put it back in and it works perfectly

What about laser heads can this printer do laser cutting and engraving? Thx!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

I have seen people put laser heads on 3D printers that being said I have never done it.

Hello I have aittle question because I'm not 100 percent sure about it. You mentioned using thermal paste on the description. Where to use it if I may ask? Sorry if its obvious I'm new to it and wanna learn as much as possible. Thank you

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Around the copper part that goes into the heat sink

@shyperson8133

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thank you very much

Really appreciate this. Thanks!

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

No problem 👍

Is there a heater block that you know of that'll fit a Neptune 3 pro that can take a V6 nozzle?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

No that I know without having to make some custom stuff.

Do I have to replace the ptfe tubing on the inside or can I just leave that out?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

You can leave it out but it making loading filament a lot harder. I did put it back in but you have to cut it down to about 30mm long.

How did you level the printer? My print head wants to return to zero and keeps jamming the nozzle into the print bed due to the parts being a different size

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Honestly everything should be around the same size. I guess measure everything you have and see if something's off by a lot.

Hi. Excellent vid. Just a tad confused when it comes to the ptfe tube, did you or did you not put it back in with the new hot end? Thanks

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

In the video I didn't put it back in and as you saw it worked but I did put it in later. You do need to cut it down to about 30mms due to it no longer going all the way down to the nozzle.

@andyfox7107

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thanks so much for the reply. V much appreciated. I’ve just had the Neptune 3 Max for a few weeks and I’m so nervous taking something that big and expensive apart, but your video is so reassuring. Thanks again.

I don't have the Iwiss IWS-3220M crimper, but I already have the SN-01BM. Does that work?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Honestly I have no idea 😅

One question as i finally ordered the parts: How do i know how far i have to screw the heatbreak in?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

You just want it flush with the top of the threads

do you think it is possible to mount a volcano V6 system? to increase the volumetric flow

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Well technically yeah you could do just about anything to these but it's going to take some retrofitting and design work to make that work. 😅

Amazing video dude!! one questiion. how you know what parts fit hot end? i mean how do you know that ender 3 parts fits n3p?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

I'm happy that you liked the video. I know they all work because I bought all of it and tested it all to make sure it would work before I made the video haha.

Just a question, don’t you need any new tube to change the ptfe one? You put the new Metal black without any tube.

@randymay

10 ай бұрын

So I did install everything without the tube and it did work. That being said it made it a lot harder to change out the filament due to not being able to see the hole to line it up. All you need to do is cut the ptfe tube down to about 30mm long and install it at the top of the new all metal part.

Why do you need a replacement thermistor? Can you use the old one if you don't want to print high temp?

@zachrhodes8932

9 ай бұрын

Also can you use the old silicone sock on the new block

@randymay

9 ай бұрын

Yeah you can use the old one if you aren't going to print too hot. You should be able to use the sold silicone sock still

I have a question do you forget to put the PTFE tube back ?

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

So I was just trying it without it but found that it makes it a little bit harder to load if it's not in there so I did end up putting it back in. You do have to cut it to about 30 mm to work with the new setup.

My neptune 3 is missing some specific areas in my prints. Nothing helps, but I broke the fan that blows on the heat block and can’t find a replacement. Its also too loud stock.

@randymay

Жыл бұрын

Contact Elegoo for a replacement.

@matthewantos4776

Жыл бұрын

@@randymay I had to contact them 4 times for them to finally send one.

When you say with the right nozzle, I'm guessing you mean a larger one? Totally new to this 😬 also would this upgrade allow the use of nylon filament?

@randymay

11 ай бұрын

So this will allow you to print using nylon but you are also going to need an enclosure to keep the heat in so the nylon doesn't warp. I have no idea what I meant by the right nozzle due to not having context or a time stamp to what I was saying. 😅👍