So I changed out the actuator on my 2009 F150 last year, but sadly it didn’t make a difference. My wife asked me today to make an appointment to get it fixed by Ford. Tonight I watched your video and picked up the little nugget at the end about pulling fuse #15, then turning on the key for 30 seconds to allow the system to calibrate the new actuator. Boom, it’s working great now! Thank you so much. Your videos are awesome. Thank you!

I just changed out the above mentioned motor on my 2011 F-150 XL w/ Ecoboost. As stated many times below, Great Video!! Two (2) tips for anyone in the future. 1. For the rear screw, once you break it loose, wrap tape around the socket, one wrap, then twist and wrap again with the sticky side out. This will allow you to use your finger tips to loosen the screw the rest of the way out, adds grip to the socket. 2. For normal operation of the Temp. adjuster Knob, Do Not go 100% Hot or 100% Cold, always dial it back one click from 100%. That will take the "stress" off of the gears. I was told this by a friend of mine who was a 19 year Ford mechanic. Changed out a $#!+ Ton of "old style" blend doors that were broken. The motor would break the arm on the door holding it closed 100%. From 2011 to now (12 1/2 years) first motor I'm changing out. - FordTeckMakuloco -, please keep up the Awesome work, sooo much appreciated.

I wish they'd be more technicians like you! Your attention to detail,thoughtfulness and cleanliness is fantastic! Ford is lucky to have a technician like you and we are lucky to watch your videos! God bless!

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Nick Nicu Why thank you

@bakugousleftcroc6079

9 жыл бұрын

FordTechMakuloco Ford Tech Makuloco if your out there check this out. Ford fx4 2010. I just replace my upper actuator because I had fully functioning driver side and passenger side not working only blowing ambient air. After I buttoned everything up and checked the system.. Now the passenger side is blowing out heat only.. So the replacement changes something but it is still not functioning correctly. I just posted something on f150 online forum but have no responses... What would your recommend i do from here? Any suggestions?

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

was the replacement one a YH1933 from motorcraft?

@bakugousleftcroc6079

9 жыл бұрын

FordTechMakuloco No. Air Door Actuator - Temperature Quick ViewQuick View Dorman - OE Solutions Air Door Actuator - Temperature Be the first to review Part No. 604-234Warranty Details Exact Fit for your 2010 Ford F-150 Lariat

@zionboy768

9 жыл бұрын

FordTechMakuloco I have the same problem and did use YH1933. Replaced the actuator, reset the fuse and now I have only heat on the passenger side ALL the time. Great video BTW and it was not too much trouble to replace it. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

Thank you for this video. I was able to change the actuator. It took me about 3 hours, 15 minutes to take the dash apart, and 2 hours and 45 minutes to get the screws out. The back screw is really tough, I think the neighbor kid that was outside may have learned some new swear words from me.

@joe1071

3 жыл бұрын

Your persistence is noteworthy! I would not have survived almost 3 hours removing two screws. Wow!

@MetalManiac1911

Жыл бұрын

That back screw is a whore

@fixingitrightish

Жыл бұрын

I think I spent about 90 min getting that screw out and back in. My hand is really torn up. Edit: the job took me 2 1/2 hours total. Everything went back together very quickly

I’ve been watching your videos for a long time. Very detailed. Saw the blend motor one day before yesterday. No heat made me attempt the repair. A simple work 2009 F 150. Used a cutoff 5/16” much like the one you had on your tool for rear screw. Used my fingers to take off and replace. Worked like a champ! Thank you very much! (By the way, a tiny round magnet inside socket held the screw from falling out.)

Did this repair today following your video. Can't thank you enough sir! Excellent workmanship and instructions. Greatly appreciate it!

Thanks for the video! I never would've thought I could fixed this myself before watching your video. It took me about 2 hours to completely finish it (and a lot of cursing at that back bolt), but I was able to replace it myself. Thanks for the videos, they are super helpful!

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Ryan Geraghty Awesome!

I just did this repair. Shockingly my 1/4 inch 8mm fit onto that back capscrew just well enough I didn't have to use the open ended wrench! Works like a charm now, thank you!

Love to see you do an update to this blender door repair on the 2015 and newer F150. Thanks for these videos you do!

All your videos and tips are beyond great, many thanks for disseminating this info for people who like to do their own work and do not want to pay the high rates for dealership repair. I have had to replace these temp blend door actuators about once a year on my 2010, a real pain, particularly getting to the bolt closest to the firewall. I actually ended up using an 8mm combination wrench that I had heated up and twisted torsionally (the box end close to the box) and grinding the outside of the box thinner for more clearance. I also removed the passenger airbag for better access and visibility. This time I will try unclipping the wire harness which is above the actuator. Since my truck is manual temp control, it makes me long for the days when the blend doors were operated manually by a lever and cable. Progress, I guess.

I just experienced this issue yesterday and ordered the part at the local dealership. This video is very helpful to brief myself for tmrws project. Thank you so much for the awesome guide video!!

Great video. Very detailed. I replaced mine in about two hours. Instead of fighting the back bolt to remove the part I just broke it off then was able to access that bolt. Now tightening it back up was a pain but it worked. I've seen some others suggesting to not even bother with the back bolt and will be just fine.

Thank you so much for this video. I have a 09 FX4 and I've been hearing that clicking noise for the longest time. I still have heat, but I'm still going to change it before it goes out. Thank you again!!

Changed out the lower actuator motor thanks to your video. Nice having heat again! Watching the rest of your stuff now...coolant flush is next. Thanks again for your videos.

Thank you!!! Got the part from your provided link and was able to replace mine in 45 minutes!! You saved me a lot of money I am sure!

We have heat (for both of us)! I just finished replacing the blend door actuator before our big Christmas trip north from southern Virginia. Thanks for this and your other great videos!!

I appreciate you sharing this video. After watching I changed mine & it's nice to have heat again..! Very detailed and helpful!

Great video and explanation, and particularly clear and well-lit camera work. I replaced one of these upper (manual) actuators on my 2010 last year, and need to do it again, so searched youtube until I came across the best, which was yours. I bought a cheap 8mm combination wrench, and heated and bent the box end (twisted it actually, torsionally), and ground the outside of it to make the wall much thinner, making it much easier to get that box onto that stupid rear retainer screw, in order to get it loose enough to remove with my fingers (as you showed). I actually removed the passenger side airbag in order to gain easier access and visibility for this whole task, but this time will try to do it without removing the airbag. Thanks FordTechMakuloco, for helping the average guy to not have to pay $100/hour for replacement of such an inexpensive part.

Thanks for your video. Easy installation you saved me $400 it only cost me $44 at the Ford dealer I used a small ratchet with a 8mm socket it only took 1 hour to do.

That was the exact steps needed! I changed mine out in an hour and am back to everything working. Thank you thank you thank you!

Thank you very much for the detailed vid!! That back bolt was a son-of-a...but I couldn't have done this without your video. Thanks!!

God bless you sir and keep you always safe! THANKS so much for all your videos. I replaced the same actuator on my '09 F150 XLT yesterday. That rear screw is indeed a HUGE PITA!. I took your advice and removed Fuse no.15 and did the calibration (some other KZreadrs claimed they didn't have to do this, but I prefer to go with what you say/do) and in the end it was another succesfull DIY repair. Dealer quoted me 8.5 hrs labour as they wanted to remove the dashboard. I was done in an hour. Now to go buy some Aloe Vera for the scrapes on my right hand !!! LOL. Keep up the great work you do and once again, a BIG THANK YOU!

@thangquach3624

2 жыл бұрын

How did you do the calibration? i was able to change the actuator but I don't know how to do the calibration. My truck is 2011 F150. When you remove the fuse the engine is OFF or ON? Thank you

FordTechMakuloco-You sir, are a god. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I used your Amazon link and did the work yesterday. Took me about 2.5 hours and only lost one socket to the bowels of Ford dash hell. Again, thank you! Merry Christmas!

Excellent video! I have a 2011 F150 Lariat and the passenger side was blowing hot air while the driver side was cold. It did not make any clicking noises, but this fix still worked! I used the TechSmart F04002 since it is the same thickness as the original part. The Dorman part is quite a bit thicker so I returned it and used the TechSmart part.

Great video! Thanks for a great explanation. The dealer fixed my 2011 F150 the day I drove it off the used car lot but this will be good to know to fix it myself if it ever happens again. Thanks

Just finished this in about 3 hours for me. I have the flow through console so I referenced both videos. Hardest part was putting that back screw back in... I went about it by using masking tap to leave the back screw in while setting the new actuator so it was already lined up in the hole, and that worked pretty well. Good luck and keep a level head. Anyone can do this job and save an absurd amount of money with the help of this video.

@juanferdin5891

2 жыл бұрын

Can u please post the link for the other video please. With the flow thru the console. Thanks

I have a 2012 with dual zone climate control and the passenger vents was blowing steaming hot air. Living in southeast Louisiana, that is not a option! I followed this method and it worked just as explained and saved us hundreds on a $25 part. Thanks for taking your time to make this video!!!

Thank you sir. Once again one of your videos has been a massive tool for keeping my ford beast alive and well.

Sir, Great tutorial, had my wife help me with the back screw on the Motor with her smaller hands. Thank you for your assistance.

What an outstanding tutorial video! Thanks so much for the time and effort you expended to produce and post it.

I was disgusted with the fact that my truck was making a loud knocking noise behind the dash. My truck is a 2011 f150 ecoboost with only 50,000 miles on it. The dealer wanted 1200 dollars to fix it. I watched this video and followed the instructions and I fixed the problem myself for 40.00. I am impressed with this video and how much it helped me. Thank you.

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Nice!!

WOW! I have arthritis bad and spent the weekend replacing the top actuator basing my diagnosis (location of actuator) on other videos. I have dual climate control with a center console like in your other video. You can imagine my disappointment after I managed to get by with just removing the radio and airbag then being able to still barely access the back screw/bolt having it not work when finished lol. Warm air still came thru the driver’s side vents. I popped the old apart looking for damage. If I had seen this could have save $25. Probably best I go ahead and spend the extra $25. The parts guy told me they did both if they to do one on warrant to save the money and eliminate risk of the other one going out. I will be replacing the other one this week based on your video, the only one that specifies that the dual climate one is on bottom. Thank You!

Great step by step video and I got the job done easily as a result. Tip for Lariat owners - loosen flow through console from floor and slide it back about an inch after freeing the shifter from bottom of console by removing four screws. No need to disconnect shifter cables/wiring. Just leave it free in console when you slide console back. You have to lift it about a 1/2” when sliding the console back to clear a plastic pin. Now you can get those 2 7mm screws holding the trim around your centre controls.

Wow, thank you for this well informed and filmed tutorial!! You have saved me (and a bunch of other folks) a lot of money!! I had a few issues that I wanted to comment on. First off, it's very important to have the correct tools. I only had a straight, mini, non ratcheting 5/16 (8mm) wrench and I think one would benefit greatly by having a ratcheting wrench. I tried a couple of different things...a socket held by needle nose pliers (lost a 5/16 into the depths of the dash) and a mini socket wrench that proved too short and too thick as well as a socket finger drive. My biggest problem was that my hands were simply too big to maneuver very well inside the dash. That being said, PATIENCE and CALM are important here! But, I just wasn't able to maneuver well enough to remove that back screw. So, I got a couple of turns on it and decided I could break the tab and get actuator loose. In putting the new one in, I installed it without the back screw knowing I would never be able to work it back in. It felt snug enough and with the front alignment tab near the electrical connector, seemed stable enough to work. Also, if I ever have to do this again, it won't take nearly as long. In the end, Mission Accomplished! Calibration went perfect and there is now heat for my passengers! This video is by far the best of all that I could find on the subject, thanks again for high quality information. FYI, mine was a 2009 F-150 Lariat.

@petko618

6 жыл бұрын

I hear you brother......did mine yesterday. I left the back screw out. After I tightened the front screw I tried to rotate the actuator to see if it would 'turn' but it wouldn't budge. Plus the plastic gear is so long that even if the actuator lifted up, the gear would still remain engaged. I was on such a 'high' when everything worked again. Dealer quoted me $1,200 CAN to replace!!! I was done in an hour. Thanks very much to KZread and guys like FordTechMakuloko !!

Great tutorial (I combined this with your other video for both the upper and lower)! I really appreciate your approach in how you perform the work!! I did this repair on a 2010 F-150 Lariat with navigation screen. I approached this guided by a number of other comments from forums and viewers of these videos describing their experience. First, try resetting the climate control system by removing the fuse associated with the system for 1 min., then turn ignition to on but not start the vehicle and allow the actuators to calibrate, this is the same procedure outlined at the end of this video. I read this tip elsewhere, unfortunately it did not work on mine and I am not sure if it would work, it may save you a lot of hassle and avoid replacing the actuator. I kept fasteners organized in a Harbor Freight 20 Bin Medium Portable Parts Storage Case and used sticky notes to label each bin / location it was from (no HF plug intended here, just a copy/paste from online of what I used). I did need to remove my front seats, roll carpet back and remove the additional ductwork for rear air that routes under the seats. This is not hard and was necessary (as mentioned by another viewer). I broke the eyelets on both units during removal and did not damage any other components while doing so. I was able to get both screws in on the upper unit and only one on the lower during install. I had to cut the post that was in front of the lower actuator using an oscillating multi-tool, I adhered this back in place after the new unit was installed using Loctite Epoxy Instant Mix and after 20 minutes, already felt trustworthy that it would hold. I helped support the actuator with some high-density foam I had laying around (similar to the foam used for organizing tools or router bits). I used this same foam underneath the ductwork that is just below the lower actuator, everything felt secure and would hold in place. Overall this was 7 hours (including a short lunch break). The repair is complete, clicking is gone, heat and A/C blowing as it should and saved $$$.

Hey thanks man. I've been debating doing this my self and now I'm going to get it done. Keep up the videos. We need more tech like you. 👍

Thanks for the video. I just did this replacement on my 2010 FX4. Took a while but I did get that back screw out...however, I did not put it back in. I have a flow through console, so I had to use both your videos to figure it out. I’ve been watching your other videos as well, I didn’t know three valves had these issues. I will definitely stay on top and of my oil changes and look to do timing belt/phasers at some point. I currently have 108,000 miles, so far so good.

Got the dreaded click, click, click from the dash a few weeks ago on my 2011 F-150. Your video was extremely well done and allowed me to replace the blend door actuator within an hour, The only problem is I ordered from your link and it was the wrong part(#YH-1881). I had to go to the local Ford dealer and get part# YH-1933. This is the actuator you show at the end of the video. I also had to remove the two screws under the gauge cluster dash overhang so I could remove the left side trim piece. Just wanted to add this for others who will likely have this part fail on them, my buddy's 2011 FX4 has had this clicking for awhile now. Anyway, thanks again for a great video that saved me a ton of money by allowing me to do my own repair.

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Yeah I see that weird fixed now sorry about that! Good to hear it is all fixed in the end.

Great info here..changed it and the one by the gas pedal to give me a defrost in less then 2 hours on a 2009 lariat...Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

This video was spot on for my 2011 crew cab Lariat with dual heat. My symptoms were some heat for driver, no heat regardless of settings for passenger. I had no clicking sound being made. I ordered the part from Amazon and had it the next day. HINT: I took an old 5/16 socket from a cheap set and ground it down about 1/2 inch. This left about 1/4 inch to grip the bolt head, but allowed me to get a standard 1/4 ratchet on both bolts and do 90% of the R&R from the top only. HINT II: I wrapped a garbage bag wire tie under the shoulder of the rear actuator bolt. I could then bend the wire tie to position the bolt into the back hole from the top. Once the bolt was started, I pulled the wire tie off and finished tightening the rear bolt.

Thanks!!! Great Video!! Covers all of the highpoints without wasting timing on the entire step once you convey the idea. I replace the actuator on my 2010 Raptor with no problems at all. During this video, you refer to your video for a lower actuator removal that details steps to take if your truck has a console. In that video, you remove the entire console for the lower actuator which is necessary. However, I did manage to complete this job without removing the shift lever and only pulling back the console. Thanks again! and please keep the video's coming.

Thank you for your time and effort. The video was very informative. I changed mine out in a little over an hour.

One of the best videos on this I have found.

Thank you so much for your videos, just saved me a bunch of money doing this myself.

Thank you for the GREAT video, no way I would have ever figured this out on my on! Took me about an hour and a half including a couple of stops to re-watch parts of video. Only issue was my replacement was Dorman from Autozone which is slightly bulkier and less rounded making the back screw even harder to install... open end all the way. I lost my wrench down into the dash about halfway in and called it good enough.

Experiencing BSK Garage's page, I'm glad you're here. At least you know what you're doing!

Thank you so much for posting this. I wouldn't have had the confidence to try and do this myself were it not for seeing this. Sure, it took me way longer than I want to admit, but the job is done and my passenger vents are no longer blowing a steady stream of heat all the time. Thanks again.

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

kevin mau Awesome to hear!

thanks everyone. Just did this on my 2012 Raptor. Passenger and rear seating was blowing only cold air, swapped with the part mentioned in the video and it only took me about 45 minutes start to finish. Immediately started putting out hot air. I also verified dual climate was still working as it should. I didnt both putting the rear screw back in as the front screw holds it very tight.

thanks for this video, it really helped me out with fixing this...what a pain that back bolt is!

Terrific video. Went smooth especially helpful when my wife and her very small hands helped with back screw removal and install. One hitch is my airbag warning light is on now. Not sure why that would happen. Thanks for great video.

Worked! Love the video! But, I took a page from another book. I tied a strong piece of thread to the screw and one to the wrench. Just in case I dropped them. Total time about 2 hours, not too bad if you have replaced a radio, before. I'll buy a spare part just in case too! Thanks again.

Perfect now my 2009 f-150 has hot air again. Thanks for the great video. David

This guy is amazing. Which more mechanics where as good as him and honest.

Thanks very much for this detailed video. I bought a used 2011 F150 last year and a couple weeks ago it started making the clicking noise if I turned to full cold on the temp. Then last week it started making the clicking noise at all times and no air would come through the vents. I found your video and ordered the part through Amazon. The part came in yesterday and I swapped out the part in about an hour. Apparently this had happened previously as the rear bolt was not installed. So I got lucky and didn't have to deal with the rear bolt but I was ready with your video. All is working again, no clicking noises and air coming through all the vents.

Awesome vid!! Ford wanted to charge me 100.00 for diagnosis, 700 for labor, and 45 for parts... this video saved me 800.00. Mine is the 2011 FX4 with Sync, NAV, and Sony, with flow through air to the back seat. I was able to take the back screw out with a small craftsman 7mm wrench using the closed end, without any issue. Thanks again for the great tutorial!!!! took me less than an hour from start to finish

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

David Chandler Nice!

@stevespensley3876

5 жыл бұрын

Nice! Was your rear vents blowing the same temp as your passenger side? Im having the same issue in my 2010.

Thank you SO MUCH! Notes for others- 1. My truck is a 2010. Disassembly instructions were basicly the same however, I just dropped the radio down. no need to disconnect it. I absoulutely could not get any wrench on the rear bolt. But I pushed on the motor and it was loose, I figured that someone had replacved it before and left out the rear bolt. so I pried the motor out and that was no easy task, the old motor is quite thick and it was getting jammed on the metal dash bracing. This took the most time, just getting the old thick motor out. Once I did get it out, I could see that the rear mounting tab was broken off. Now I don't know if I did that or not, but it was still agift from above not having to remove that bolt (until after the motor was out.) On examining the inside of the old motor, my gears were all intact and looked like new. My heart dropped. UntilI saw that the splined shaft was broke, where it meshes with the largest white gear. I took this piece of shaft and inserted it into the blend door and could not turn the door. Second heart drop, is blend door jammed and this broke the shaft? So I took pliers on the piece of shaft and moved the door, it was hard at first I believe it was jammed shut into cold position. After moving it back and forth with pliers it worked freely. I installed the new thinner motor with only the front bolt as suggested by people. I plugged the two connectors into the dash panel and started the truck, the door now moves and I have heat! :) On further teardown of the old motor, the clocking boartd was covered in black grease, I suspect that the motor couldn't find home and just jammed the vent door into cold position so hard that the splined shaft broke.

Hi, thanks for this video. I have one additional question/issue that popped up after performing this repair. I had the issue described in the video in my 2010 F150 King Ranch (heat working on driver's side and ice cold on the passenger). I used the replacement part# you list in the description and followed your step by step guide to replace it (had to reference the other video to get my console out of the way first, which was extremely helpful thank you for that too!). This fixed the issue of cold air coming from the passenger vents when the heat was engaged. However, now for my new problem. It has since gotten warmer outside and I noticed while running the AC the passenger side isnt cooling (not hot, but definitely not as cold as the drivers side vents). I put it the system into dual zone mode and played with the drivers side temp until it roughly matched the passenger side and it feels like the passenger side is stuck at 75 degrees or so even though the temp display on the dash shows lower. I also noticed that when I have the driver side controling both zones, if I turn the temp knob I can hear the actuator motor cycling, but when it gets below a certain temperature (76-72 or so) the noise from the actuator stops, the drivers side continues to cool all the way down to 60 but the passenger side stays at the same temperature. I also notice occasionally on startup I can hear the actuator cycling back and forth like it is hunting for the right position, this is usually occuring before the engine is up to temp so I have no idea if it is actually changing the temperature. I have performed the climate control re-set routine of pull fuse 15 and wait as described in both your videos twice and the issue persists. So my question, did I just get a bad actuator (used brand new motorcraft part) or is this a separate issue?

Great video. I was having an extremely hard time getting the rear screw out. I ended up breaking the clips of the actuator which allowed me to take the top of the actuator off and this way I was able to easily access the rear screw from the front. I was unable to get the rear screw back in but still seems to work fine.

Thank you for the instructions. I placed order through your link you listed.

Just used this video to fix a 2011 Platinum passenger blend door. Very helpful.

I just did this for my 2011 Ford Expedition. Went just like the video showed! Definitely the most challenging part of the job is that rear screw on the actuator. The Dorman Actuator (part number 604-234) fits and I found to be the better choice over the 604-241 or 242 as it's slighty lower profile and offers just a bit more "hand room" to get that rear screw back in. My Ford dealer quoted me $600 to fix this as they have remove the dash. Typical overcharging dealership service center. Took me an hour to do it myself following the video. Would have been quicker if it wasn't for that tricky rear screw.

Thanks for the extremely informative video! I'll be doing this job on my mother's truck this coming weekend. I've already done it on my Impala twice, it's just as fun lol

thank you very much for your video! Exactly what I was looking for.

U make the BEST VIDEOS!! So informative and helpful, THANK YOU!!!!

This video saved me a bunch of money!! Thanks for your help

Love the vids- I am dealing with same issue, and I have the DTC w/ navigation on my 2010 Lariat- Before ripping things completely apart, I got another "code read" for 49$, and found out that my problem is related to the controls in the front. (FURNACE on the D/S, and P/S is nice and cold. Been like this for few weeks- This morning, just before arriving to work, started hearing a weird noise from the blower assembly (shut climate off, and went silent") so have to investigate. I would add one piece of tidbit helpful that I learned over the years- When using these self-tapping screws into any kind of plastic that you removed from, if possible, counter clockwise turn the screw until you feel the thread seat into the existing 'cut thread" in the plastic from original install. This will prevent creating new "threads" and help eliminate stripping the the" existing threads, leaving with with no ability to secure the screw. Stuck w/ another problem (I do this with almost everything self-tapping into plastic. (Just a good habit to get into.) When fails. "some good glue or sealant that works with plastic I use to fill in the stripped threads Thanks for vids. Now- To find out what EXACTLY is my problem B8010-10/11 codes- indicating electrical short. $$$$$ :( I am not taking to "stealership"

Great video. I offer if you have a 2010 with navigation it's a bit different getting the trim and HU out. 1. Follow the video to remove the center arm console. You just need to slide it back, so don't take the shifter out. 2. The left side trim bolt on the bottom will now be exposed, use a 7mm socket, so you can then remove the trim and continue access. 3. The rear bolt for the blend door, I had sticky dynmat like rubber wrapped around my 8mm socket. After I got it initially loose, this helped to hang on to it for removal and install. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the vid. I'm at work right now about to do one and was looking at the back screw and was like "how in the hell to I get that out of there?!" Used an old 8mm wrench and chopped it in half to get a better swing on the screw. Worked great.

Lower Blend Door Actuator Replacement- kzread.info/dash/bejne/omms2M6bmcTedpc.html

@homemaintenanceprosllc4633

9 жыл бұрын

I'm a new sub just started following you on KZread and on here, I have a question concerning my 2010 f150, it's blowing cool on the drivers side and warm on the passenger side in the heating mode, it also has the center console, would this be a lower blend door actuator problem and would dash removal be necessary?

@FordTechMakuloco

9 жыл бұрын

Marcus English Drivers side is the lower yes.

@homemaintenanceprosllc4633

9 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feed back, now would that apply to the center console back air vents as well

@rusty1030

9 жыл бұрын

Marcus English back center console are tied to the Drivers side if i recall.

@2010FordFX2

9 жыл бұрын

FordTechMakuloco Brian what 1/4" impact wrench are you using? I wouldn't mind owning one, it's compact enough to get into tight spaces. Great videos, keep up the good work.

nice job on the video..just did one in a 2009 xlt in less than 30 min......thank You

Well done brother !!!!! Thanks for taken the time to show how to do this and saving a ton of money by not goin to the dealer.. Very good and clear details. THANK YOU

Thanks for this. Works like a charm now.

Amazing! Thank you! Greetings from Edmonton, Alberta!

Just finished on my 2010 f150 what a big pain in the ass working to get to that back screw with my big hands but it’s done no more clicks thank you

I used this video to figure out and change the dual temp blend door on an FX4 with NAV. Basically pop off the trim a little bit and 4, 7mm bolts around the screen. Squeeze your hands in the dash and pull out the old actuator. Wire was tricky to get unhooked and the NAV trim didn't come off due to the USB and cigarette lighter that I couldn't get the connection off. It worked though and I now have AC again.

Awesome video and detail. I have the same problem with my 09 Lariat. Vents are warmer on the Passenger side. Seems do-able with this video for reference. Going to order the actuator. Only thing is there are 3 per Oreilly Auto parts. Gotta find the right part #

Thanks for making the detailed video just ordered part from your link. Just wondering if I should disconnect battery before starting the job?

Things could be worse, on the 90s explorers the top of the blend door breaks off and you either have to remove the dash or work it in thru the evaporator housing. Similar tight procedure on many other fords, common failure item... For the rear bolt on others I have used a magnetic socket and a special disc type ratchet. It is about the size of a quarter and can adapt to a socket. Keep up the great videos!

Great vid. Thanks man.

I just did this repair. Thank you for your video. I did find that I could easily start the rear screw by rotating the blend motor around backwards after clocking the door. Once started, rotate the motor around to its place and tighten it down. Not looking forward to replacing the other blend door. I'm sure that is right around the corner.

You are awesome man. I just ran across your channel and subbed immediately. This old dog (me) can learn a lot of new tricks from a young articulate smart young mechanic such as yourself. Thanks for doing what you do. I will be spending a lot of time learning new things from you I'm sure. I am a Ford man through and through and really do bleed blue if I cut myself, it looks blue to me a least. If something comes up for me down the road that I need a little guidance with - do you take questions? I wouldn't want to beat you down with one if that is not a part of what you do here. Thanks. Go Fords !

Many many thanks. Once again, you have saved me some serious coin. 2009 F150 FX4, dual zone. Hot air coming out of passenger side at all times. Followed your instructions down to the letter, and everything works as it should now. That rear bolt was rough and by far the most difficult part. Center console made it a touch more difficult to pull the right side trim to get enough clearance, but I managed with some good auto trim removal tools I ordered off amazon. Where's the donate button dude?

@FordTechMakuloco

7 жыл бұрын

Donate button is on the main page for the channel.

@scotthughes5390

7 жыл бұрын

what is the part number for the 2009 FX4 with dual zone?

Awsome video. You really helped me out.

thank you my friend! once again help me with your videos!!

Thank you for this very nice stuff.

Thank you SO Much. You just saved me 1100 dollars.

perfect. don't know if you could make a better video for this repair. particularly at the end when you mention the difference with the 2011 manual temp control. This is my second time doing this repair. First time with Doorman part that did not last a year. Bought Motor-craft this time. Also I pulled fuse 15 last year and 46 this time so hopefully getting proper calibration helps this part last longer. Thanks!!!

I have a 2009 f-150 fx4 with the floor console and this video works for that too. total time was about 30 to 45 minutes. as the video states the worst part is the 8mm wrench threw the glove box, but that is very easy.

@mikereandeau4943

8 жыл бұрын

Problem... passenger vents are stuck on hot even when console reads 60 degrees. Driver side works normal. I spilt coffee on buttons for temp control ( bottom up and down buttons)and around sync ports. Navigation and all options work. The passenger side is stuck on hot no matter what console reads. Question...is this a button problem or actuator?

You just saved me 500 bucks, Thanks yo!

Good video i have changed 3 since I have had mine but i have a platinum so it is a floor shift which calls for a few more steps

Thanks this video was very helpful

To whom it may concern, on my 2012 lariat the side pieces of trim don’t simply slide up. You have to remove center console to discover 1 screw on each side. Once these screws are removed the side trims can be removed then the radio trim.

45 minutes in and out. Helps to have long skinny fingers! Excellent video!

I just completed this job a few minutes ago. If you remove the top tray and speaker, it is possible to get a 8mm socket on a long extension to the back screw from there. I took some effort but it worked. When I reassembled it, I had to start the threads with a ratcheting box end and the put the long extension on it to tighten it down. I hope this helps someone else.

Wicked helpful, only thing I was able to get a stubby 8mm socket on the back screw through the front

"place our lizards and frogs up and out of the way" hahahaha. I can only imagine all the shenanigans you find in other people's vehicles. Video idea, story time covering all the funny and bizarre things you have found in peoples cars

NICE TO WATCH A VIDEO THAT WASN'T FILMED DURING AN EARTH QUAKE...LOL

Awesome video, thanks. I changed mine out over the winter, though now that it's summer, my ac doesn't seem to be quite as cold as it was last year. Couuld this be the cause? It's still cold, just not nearly as cold as it used to be. Also, when I go all the way to cold on my temp adjustment, and then back it up a single notch, it clicks 1 time. But only at that one spot and only 1 time. Bad actuator maybe?

Took 3hrs, broke 1 of 4 tabs on shifter assembly when prying shift cable off. Tapped hole and cut to length drywall screw fixed it secure.

Awesome video very detailed. Do you have a video with the same issue for upper and lower blend door actuator replacement for 2014 Ford F-150 , Im planning to change both since the dash board is already open might as well do them. Thanks and more power to you and videos to post!