Thanks Zach, for your brilliant video on removing the injector, cleaning & replacing in detail. Very educational. It has given me the courage to service mine with confidence !!

Thank you for the video, it helps me to recognise the problems in my injectors. Greatings from Bulgaria, keep doing your staff! Thank you again!

Looking at buying one of these. Trying to gather all the data/risks I can. Really well done. I enjoyed seeing someone take care in the details as well. If I tackle it myself, I take my time and make sure everything is super clean like yourself. Thank you!

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

I love mine!

As an enthusiast, and owner, of several of these beasts; they will ALL suffer this. Anyone who finds your video has gotten there because they have this issue. Your cogent and thorough video is *perfect* for this procedure. Thank you,

@pacobacchus9118

2 жыл бұрын

Imagine taxi drvers with this problems in their cars .... in Spain the solution used to avoid this problem is to modify the holes for using bolts to 8mm diameter, instead of the 6mm. I did the modification in 2014 and never again had this problem. And still I can use the car without problems.

@johnadams9041

6 ай бұрын

@@pacobacchus9118 I am thinking to do this also. *mm may be will be ok

J'ai vécu récemment la même chose (vis cassée au fond sur 1 cm en resserrant) avec un ami mécanicien. J'avais acheté exprès une petite clé dynamométrique car la mienne, une grande, ne démarrait qu'à 20 nm. Il avait commencé à serrer et n'a pas fait attention au déclic de la clé. En effet, 7nm ce n'est pas grand chose. Et il continuait de serrer et commençait à s'inquiéter de ne pas entendre le clic. Moi non plus je n'avais pas fait attention au clic à chaque fois qu'il recommençait à serrer. Cet outil était neuf et je ne l'avais encore jamais utilisé.Au moment où mon intuition me disait il faut arrêter, il venait de casser cette vis que je savais pourtant fragile. A savoir encore qu'il faut très bien nettoyer le filet et le trou, et même repasser un petit coup de taraud, car cela fausse le couple sinon. C'est de là que vient sans doute le problème; Enfin, ce n'est pas très sérieux pour MERCEDES de construire durant des années des voitures en continuant d'ignorer ce problème. Pour la réparation, comment avez vous fait ? Avez-vous mis un hélicoil en M6x1. Quelle longueur fait-il ? Ca aurait été intéressant de faire une video à ce sujet, car le problème semble assez fréquent. On devrait aussi ouvrir le cache culbuteurs et changer tous les joints toriques. Car si de l'huile reste au fond du pas de vis, là aussi le couple de serrage est faussé. Et merci encore pour ces explications très détaillées.

Very nice and comprehensive video.. thanks from london

Thanks for this, mines just started throwing it out on No6, No2 leaked slightly for years so going to do the lot, you're bolt snap hopefully saves me doing the same

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Haha I wish I could have been calm enough to record the extraction (lots of cursing lol). If you have any questions let me know. I'll help the best I can.

Great video! You show the procedure for removing the diesel return lines which is very nice. Some people recommend using the honda 2.2cdti seals. They are 0.3 milimeters larger in diameter and 0.5 milimeters thicker and last longer.

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I have heard about the Honda seals doing good things for stubborn injectors. If anyone is reading this and needs the part number, here it is:16472-RBD-E00.

@pfoxhound

4 жыл бұрын

I tried to put double and found a lot of some from exhaust, just 1 injector and alot of smoke. As I found the location inside combustion chamber is extremely specific and better to comply with it...

Thanks for sharing this video of all the steps you took. I'm looking into getting an older sprinter van and It's nice to go into it feeling prepared. Not to beat a dead horse here, but I do think you ought to compare your torque wrench to another known good torque wrench, or invest in having have it calibrated. Torque wrenches are very important precision tools, especially for component mating surfaces that are comprised of different hardnesses and that will behave differently while enduring extreme temps. There needs to be a precise measure of torque so you can have confidence the torque stabilizes over time, keeping those injectors properly seated with equal force on the seals--which will hopefully prevent premature recurrence of the leaks. I agree with others here in what looked like a much greater torque than 7nm (roughly 62 inch pounds)... which is a pretty light torque, and just about right for a bolt shank of that diameter. I hope this doesn't sound judgmental and shitty on my part... I'm grateful you shared a very thorough and informative video... I'm just a big advocate of using torque wrenches. Having said that... if i were in your shoes under those circumstances and not getting my torque wrench to click, I'm sure I would have done the exact same thing and snapped the bolt... so these things are easier said than done, especially as the audience...

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

I totally agree with you. I think torque numbers a very important. You're also probably correct about getting a new torque wrench haha. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching! Glad I could help!

Omg , I would have had palpitations when that bolt snapped, good on you for getting it out , job well done, all the best to you 👍👍

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

Haha thanks and yeah my stomach sank....luck was on my side when it came to getting it out tho and everything is still holding up to this date...

@garygangster2414

Жыл бұрын

How were you able to get it out.. great video and thanks for sharing.. just noticed I need two to change..

verry nice job.. well explained and helpful :)

Best vid out there ! Keep up the amazing work mate :)

Excellent explanation

Good video .. I did mine with steps slightly different from you, maybe you can see if some of my steps can help you next time: 1. I pre-prepare the engine ... When the engine is hotI dug out as much of the black tar as possible and used Carb cleaner to clean as much of the injector and surroundings as possible. It's easier to clean when hot since the tar is like treacle that you can "peel" out a bit at a time. Then I drive again and get the engine hot again. That will soften the black tar again or it will get hard. 2. I loosened the hold down very slightly. The pressure from the engine will push the injector up and again heat up all the tar. You will now have a bigger leak. You should probably consider covering with a rag on the injector you are fixing so it does not spray every where. 3. Turn off the engine. Now when the engine is hot, and the injector has been dislodged slightly and the tar is still gooey, you can remove the clamp, lines etc ... from the injector and it should now just wiggle out. If not then you can use the slide hammer tool. You bought the same one that I did that is actually for OM613 (predecessor to OM648). I also had to grind mine down to fit properly. 4. Remove the copper o-ring if it is in the bore. Sometimes need to bend a steel coat hanger to pull it out if it is bad. 5. Blow compressed air around glow plug to prevent dirt getting in. Remove the glow plug while engine is hot. I use the glow plug side to blow air into the cylinder later and blow dirt out of the hole. I also lubricate the glow plug as well since those can seize too. 6. Clean up as you did. I put paper towels down the holes (injector and clamp bolt hole) to soak up carb cleaner. 7. I have a tap and chase the threads on the clamp bolt to clean them out thoroughly and also carb cleaner with long q-tips. Repeated this like 4-5 times. 8. Cleaned out the injector bore with carb cleaner. Plugged the hole at the bottom with a steel plug and o-ring that came with an injector cleaning kit I had. Cleaned out as much as possible. 9. Remove the plug and used 150 grit on a dowel to clean the seat. I have injector seat cutter also, but it doesn't seem to work that well. 10. Clean up the injector with carb cleaner (be careful with the tip). I also used sand paper to clean the injector seating surface as well. 11. Use compressed air to blow into the glow plug area and dirt will come out of the injector port. 12. I used a thicker copper seal ring than the Mercedes one. It will last longer and is a bit softer so should seal better. 13. Insert the injector with the seal ring. 14. Install clamp and bolt (7NM + 2x 90 degrees). 15. install fuel lines and tighten. 16. Cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel system. It should start faster .. only learned this one after my second injector install. Hopefully some of my steps can help you and others .. I keep wanting to make a video but keep forgetting to do it ... Very good of you to take the trouble to do it.

@Al.Tchumbadze.

3 жыл бұрын

Step by step thank you

@arvindmulleth3481

3 жыл бұрын

@turbo97se how many times did you have to change these seals? I've had to do this on 2 injectors of my E220 and it's leaking again barely a year later.. Any advice?

@turbo97semax

3 жыл бұрын

@@arvindmulleth3481 If it is leaking again, you must've done something wrong. Here are some possibilities to check: 1. Did you pull out the old copper sealing ring? When you pull out the injector, the copper ring does not always come out with the injector and you have to fish it out with something (like a coat hanger). If not it will leak very soon. 2. Did you clean the injector face? I cleaned the injector seat in the head using 150 grit and checked it with an endoscope to make sure it was clean and also poked a hole in the sandpaper to clear the injector tip and cleaned the injector face side that sits against the copper sealing ring. Those are the only parts of this that would cause a seal failure. Stock seals should last around 130-150K miles. I am hoping my thicker seals will last longer than that. If you have to pull again, check exactly where it is leaking from, it should be somewhat clear where the leak path is as there will be additional black soot and then make sure to clean that interfacing area. Miine is still holding up well after well over 10K miles.

@arvindmulleth3481

3 жыл бұрын

@@turbo97semax Thanks for tips.. I did remove the old washer and grind down the seat.. And it did hold up for nearly a year and 10k kilometers.. Maybe this happened because I didn't sand the injector face or I used the OEM washer in place of the aftermarket (Honda?) type? Say is this a common issue? My E220 had run just 100k kilometers when I ran into this problem.

@turbo97semax

3 жыл бұрын

​@@arvindmulleth3481 I put thicker ones in as I felt the stock ones may be on the thin side, but even then mine lasted >130K miles on stock. Mine were genuine Bosch seals but I do not have the part number handy. I believe they are used in Hondas and they are about twice as thick as stock. But I don't think that is your issue here necessarily. Is your car tuned perhaps? It is an E220 vs our E320, believe the design should be pretty much the same, just with two fewer cylinders. Did you torque to spec and do the two 90 degree turns on the hold down bolt? The second 90 I did not quite make (more like 75 degrees) through fear of snapping the bolt. Did you replace the bolts? I did all new hardware to be safe but for the injector hold down itself it should not be necessary.

Nice Video. For someone who admits they are "not a mechanic" you did a great job ! , would have been nice to have shown how you managed to removed the snapped bolt, that cannot have been easy. The black death was invented by Mercedes, pretty much every one of their diesel engines will develop this problem at some point, very often on cylinder 1 for some reason ? . For anyone else attempting this I would have one piece of advice though, ALWAYS use genuine Mercedes parts. Good job though :)

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much! and thanks for the tips! (sorry I didn't show the bolt extraction, I was really upset lol)

good job, very good you put new bolt , they are not reusable ,if you reuse them next time you try to loosen them up they will break and you are in big s.it. they are made of special steel which works like a spring ....

Thank you, very helpful!

You should also use some ceramic grease on the injector

A common solution is to replace the seals with ones meant for a Honda accord 2.2 diesel injector. They are slightly thicker and made from softer alloy providing a better seal longer lasting seal

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

Yep! In the below comments I gave the Honda Part Number. I have actually used them and they DO work well!

@milch13

3 жыл бұрын

@@oztihcs 👍

The black death is one of the easier to fix issues on this engine. So IF you see a used E320CDI with this problem (and many owners think thats the end of the life of the engine) it is entirely possible to get a good price on the car due to this "HORROR" around the injector....but it is not the end of the world. Be patient with a stuck injector, it WILL come out! Hot engine, etc etc...

Hey man what a great video!! Easy to follow, including tool links. I have 2 that I m going to have to fix and I had to dig for about 2 hours to get all the carbon build up out. Do you have part numbers for the bolts and seals? Your video makes me confident that I can do it. Although the broke. Bolt is horribly scary

Great video, very helpful! If interested, I can share my airmatic experience on my S211 E320 CDI...

Nice ideo and good work. The Mercedes CDI started injectors problems with the 6mm bolts, and the fire rings. So every time an injector is remove the Bolt and O-ring mus be replaced. Taxi drivers knew this problem and the remedy for them was to replace the 6 mm bolts by new 8mm, That work must be done by specialist precision repair shop. I had this problem 3 times in same car, and decided to take the 8mm modification, and never again. My E320 CDI is 22 years old with 200.000 miles and the engine works brilliant. Mercedes engineering is not perfect and they keep using the 6mm bolts for many CDI engines along many years. Metal pieces before break elonge loosing resistance, and cannot be used any more. So bolts replacement is mandatory. Best regards

@mbz4652

2 жыл бұрын

Why can you not replace the bolts by 8mm bolts yourself? Do you need special equipment for tighting the bolts?

Very good job

Very helpful

Great job

very good my brother

You should have cleaned the threads of the bolt as they build up with gunk as if you don’t this happens! Next time clean the threads with parts cleaner and cotton buds! Till they come out clean then run a tap through it 1time! Then the torque can register on your torque wrench!!! You need the exact torque as if it’s to tight the bolt will stretch and not hold the injector at the required torque during warm up!! And it will fail within a few weeks!! Get a good torque wrench and clean the threads!! These are key to being successful at fixing the issue! Hope this helps!!!

My heart went, when that bolt sheared. 😱

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

Mine too haha!

Question, can you get in there before removing the fuel line with say air? Or is that not a good idea? I was thinking blow out as much as I can first, then pull the lines, then brake clean it as good as I can and proceed with removal.

Great video, I am doing one right now. I think you set your wrench incorrectly 7nm is only about 6 foot pounds. That is a very low value and should have been reached at little more than a snug turn. Followed by two quarter turns and you would have been fine. Glad it turned out good in the end.

Where do I get o rings?

Thanks for the video; I would change all of them if I were you.

the seal curve must be down nice vid!

First, I would stay with OEM retaining bolt. Secondly I would't go with the specified torque for the bolt since it is obviously of lesser grade steel. I am amazed that no after marketing manufacturers came up with complete kit for servicing injectors and Black Death prevention/treatment. It seems that every DIYer uses his own technique and improvises his own materials.

@jadesluv

2 жыл бұрын

Hold down bolts,copper washers,orings for return line are in a FCPEuro kit

Thank you for great video! I actually new that you will break bolt, to much tork I’m curious how did you get out broken bolt? You should break (LOL) it again and film it how to remove it. Thanks again!

Can you tell how you solve the problem with the broken bolt and what kind of solvent you are using to clean so gut the sludge? Also can you provide the length of the bolts ? I bought car with a broken bolt for the injector bracket and over this broken piece the genius "master" make a tread into the valve cover 8 . mm tread and bolted the injector bracket to the valve cover. Very "smart".So I will be very thanks full if you provide this valuable info. I will try to fix this problem some how . Thanks in advance.

What size seat cutter

how were you able to get the extractor within such a tight space? I did the same thing but it is very tight for space - can you let me know the specific extractor, tools you used and what sizes?

@aviator97msncom

3 жыл бұрын

I know its been ten months but I will tell you what I have done. I use a stick welder with voltage set too low on purpose and end up welding the rod to the broken bolt. If you do not have one you can get one pretty cheap at harbor freight. I used it on a 4.6 ford head bolt last year. It was recessed about 4 inches below the deck. Came right out.

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry this is so late (I have been super busy), and it probably isn't useful for you at this point. However, for anyone reading this: I just used a simple extractor kit. I was really REALLY careful while drilling the pilot hole for the extractor. This helped the extractor get a good bite. I knew I only had one shot so I made sure the pilot hole was deep enough. Also, to drill the pilot hole it is going to need to be a small bit. These small bits are going to try to walk around. If they do, they will snap and even worse they might snap in the hole they drilled. So: It is super important to keep your drill straight and prevent any flexing or walking of the small drill bit for the pilot hole.

Think you missed the part about tightening to 7Nm and then a QUARTER turn on top, you turned it another full 1-1/2 revolutions!! Your very lucky you managed to get that bolt out.

@jadesluv

3 жыл бұрын

I knew that bolt was going to snap! its only 5 ft lbs, or 62 inch pounds.

@jadesluv

2 жыл бұрын

I counted 2 full turns past the click when it snapped, but you could see the spring was out of it at 1-1/2 turns. If that music was playing I could see how Zack would miss the 7nM ping.

This is eazy when they are bosch, i have an OM646 EVO and it uses delphie, as soon as you try to remove it, it breaks into pices. I sent theme all to service since the return plastic pipe broke as well...

Quick question, in case of a very bad Black Death, can I just replace the valve cover with the injectors attached to it instead of cleaning it?

@ElMoeMan

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah you could do that it shouldn’t be an issue if you can find a cheap clean valve cover! Just did all my seals today after a horrible Black Death but engine is running rough and can’t figure it out :(

@vincentrolfe1384

2 жыл бұрын

@@ElMoeMan after replacing all the injector seats to spec and the motor is rough; you may have something in the injectors or the injector fuel line seals are past due for replacement-leaking.

Zach. Thanks for posting this. I have an 05 cdi with 133k. No visible carbon yet but getting ready to do this job preventatively. Did you use a nm torque wrench or a ft.lb or inch lb conversion one?

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

My wrench had both units. Also, I would strongly advise against doing this without absolutely having too. I have replaced other injectors that have leaked multiple times after the job was done.... So as the old adage goes 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'. Thanks for watching and good luck if you do decide to do this job....

@lw4mma

4 жыл бұрын

@@oztihcs Gotcha. I've heard that from others as well and will heed your advice. Just want to be prepared and catch it early if I see a leak. Thank you again!

@aslankok7357

2 жыл бұрын

@@lw4mma Just got this done and apparently the worse the leak the easier to extract the injector because all that black tar acts as a lubricant when hot. That's why you should only do this when the engine is hot and on a leaking injector. If there is no leak then chances are it will be very tough to remove the bolt or the injector and you could very possibly brake either one which isn't ideal in any circumstance.

I believe your seating copper washer was incorrectly torqued at the factory. Thanks for showing us the washer. Probably one in a million to have that washer show up like that. They must install those injectors VERY quickly at the factory with fancy electronic torquing tools.

Thx

After this leaking goes on for a while it turns into whats called "Black Death"...sounds ominous but is actually not a huge problem UNLESS you cannot remove the injector! So, If this starts happening, it is easy to see and you should rectify the problem promptly, and chances are the injector comes out EASILY even without buying the removal tool. So take heart, order the new retainer bolts, they are NOT EXPENSIVE use a torque wrench and put this back together, after cleaning etc! Nothing to be afraid of. And ..in addition I was surprised to see that the original retainer bolt was so loose it was ALMOST HANDTIGHT, if you can believe it. After I put everything back together I keep checking around the injector but it is shiny and clean just like it should be! What a relief! Oh and do yourself a favor by sealing all the diesel orifices with something to keep dust out!

Is there any reason why you can’t leave the covers off?

@JB-zb9zo

3 жыл бұрын

From my research, you could leave them off. However, then rats pose an issue and a few people who removed the covers did mention noticing rat biting marks on the wires.

Nice job, fair play to you for taking on such a job. Is yours the IL6 or V6 engine, thanks. I have a chuffing injector right at the rear of the engine. After watching your video I feel I can undertake this job. Does the slider and re seat kit come to much money? Thanks

@floridaman5125

8 ай бұрын

IL6 best engine they ever built.

I used the seat cutter same kit and same size as yours but it didn’t get all the way to the bottom, only around the edge right on top of the seat.

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Hmmm, I can't say why that is. I can tell you however that once you start cutting the seat to make sure that the seat is completely reamed and smooth and shiny. If you have any dull spots or spots that look like dirt, your seal will fail again.

@chriswilliams2652

4 жыл бұрын

just to be clear, the objective is to remove carbon and gunk from the injector seat correct? Your not trying to ream into the aluminum seat?

@JB-zb9zo

3 жыл бұрын

@@chriswilliams2652 I am sure this is too late, but you ream after it is all cleaned. You are trying to remove some aluminum material but very minimal, in fact, you don't put any pressure on the tool at all. Do this too many times and you will have to get a thicker crush washer.

When the injector was leaking did the car was start difficult , and was smoke and misfiring until warm up?

@oztihcs

6 ай бұрын

No, the car started and ran like normal.

My car sounds loud, the engine sounds loud w211 2005 e220 model. Do you rekon injectors need replacing or something else.

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

A blown injector seal just sound like and extra loud "puff" from the exhaust or rather a more pronounced injector solenoid sound...I believe you may have another problem...how's your engine running otherwise?

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

O Also, I have no experience with gas engines...

@roycunningham5334

3 жыл бұрын

It is like a chuff chuff sound and I can actually see the exhaust puff up from the injector. I’m about to try and fix mine in next days. Hope it comes out ok. 😉

Hello, how was the process of removing the broken screw?

@oztihcs

2 жыл бұрын

It actually went very smoothly. I just went very slow and methodical.

Do you have to bleed off fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel lines?

@ahsanafzal48

3 жыл бұрын

You can remove the fuel fuse out from the fuse box and that will automatically depressurise the fuel system.

@JB-zb9zo

3 жыл бұрын

I didn't I just went ahead and disconnected the lines. A minimal amount of diesel came out. Like a drop if any.

Some holes are really nasty but others can be real nice!

Do you know what 7 NM is??? It's 5 ft.lbs.!!!!

Zach - I busted off an injector bolt in the head on my number 1 just like you. I over tightened to 9nm by mistake. What did you extract your broken off injector bolt with?? Those bolts seem very hard and since you had success I'd like to use the same type of extractor.

@Gamerpoint-lh5pi

4 жыл бұрын

Can you send me a link? to the extractor you bought.

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

To be honest I am not sure what brand/size I used. I have a large box of taps/dies/extractors that I have accumulated over the years. However, I simply drilled a hole approx 1/4 inch deep into the snapped off bolt. I used a drill bit that was about 1/3 the size of the bolt. Then I used an extractor to extract it.... Word of warning... If you do not keep your drill perfectly straight relative to the axis of drilling and you do not keep it from wobbling or sliding off the center of your drill point... You will snap the small drill bit. Drill bits are nearly impossible to drill out. Hope this helps! And remember keep your drill straight! No limp wristing here!!

Where are the links to parts?

@oztihcs

3 жыл бұрын

Looks like they got removed. I will add them again. Sorry about that!

Please use pipe wrench don’t use open wrench to loosen or tighten fuel line. Thanks for video

The injector seal has a bow/belly...you didn't say which way the go ... which way do they go???

@jadesluv

3 жыл бұрын

I need to do my #2 first, I don't have the washers yet but I would put the belly up against the harder injector as opposed the belly down against the aluminum seat.

IF you try to use this general MB injector slide hammer puller with this particular claw (modified as here); it will not work with the CDi Sprinter 5 cylinder or 6 cylinder models due to the lack of head room above the injector (Cylinder 3,4,5) and the extra height length of the slide hammer bolt. So try the kit (CTA-1094) on Amazon that has the unmodified claw and get a shorter 16MM X 1.5MM bolt of length 90MM and 120MM to clear in the space above the injector. When you remove the stretch bolt-used grind a bevel at bolt end 40 degrees and chase the threads with that to remove crap in threads (easy does it). Use a smaller welding rod with bent end and paper towel to clean crap from bottom of bolt hole. Same approach on injector hole and bottom landing where copper washer seats. Keep fishing crap out til there aint no more. That little mirror she keeps in that black Coach purse; use that to see what youre doing.

Jeeso... I have always maintained torque settings are the work of the devil.. Far too many anomalies. You got seriously lucky getting it out!

It is an engine, not a motor, diesel engine, electric motor, but that said I don't understand why it twisted off in the head? Were you not tightening to spec?

@jadesluv

3 жыл бұрын

MOTOR is interchangeable with ENGINE, depends on what part of the world you live in. In England for example its common to hear motorcar, who ever says enginecar...no one! Try to get out more if you can. His torque wrench is probably a crap one from Harbor Freight and not a $300 one.

You can actually hear the click at 7nm 🙂

@28:44 it clicked! That was 7NM!

@jadesluv

3 жыл бұрын

Yes and you could see the bolt head springing backwards a degree in-between the ratcheting, that bolt could easily handle 5 ftlbs, probably had 10 ftlbs on it before it snapped, then the tell-tale weakening right before the the snap, its inexperience with torque wrenches. Good thing it snapped instead of pulling out the threads!

@JB-zb9zo

3 жыл бұрын

@@jadesluv yeah, I just did this job myself went with 7nm + 90 degrees + 45 degrees. 7nm felt tight and was about 1/2 turn past finger tight. First 90 degree was extremely tight and the next 45 was nerve wracking but I assume the bolt was stretching at that point. Didn’t dare to go much more than that. It is really tight

Why not to change all of them?

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

You can if you desire, however I found that sometimes you don't get them sealed just right on the first shot. So many times you might have to do this job twice. Therefore if an injector isn't leaking you probably shouldn't mess with it. The old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Also other than an exhaust smell in the cabin and some gooey carbon on top of the motor, a blown injector seal doesn't really do a whole lot in the short term.

@pfoxhound

4 жыл бұрын

@@oztihcs I had a broken bolt inside head, ended with m10 1.5 thread, and the clamp had to be drilled out alot bigger.

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

@@pfoxhound That sucks! Sorry to hear that!

@roycunningham5334

3 жыл бұрын

I now understand why one of mine has a stretch bolt with a bigger head than the rest😉

I do not understand, you already knew 7 Nm and 2 90 degrees has to be applied but you failed to do so, why?

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Because the bolt snapped before I even got to 7nm.

@SJ-we9ui

4 жыл бұрын

@@oztihcs that was way more than 7nm, I would double check your torque wrench

You have spend so much money on the extractor tool. And you didn't need to. I have removed a much more difficult injector just by twisting the injector with a 29 mm wrench. But nice job anyway.

You needed a quarter inch torque wrench

The Bolt gets 7nm. Your Hole wasnt cleaned well and you compressed the dirt and overtorqued the bolt.

I would feel better buying ONE $40.00 BOLT, if necessary to be confident, that is was made of strong enough METAL to... NOT break in half, as that bolt did! I would also consider cleaning that bolt HOLE... extra well, to remove any gunk in the threads, before installing that Bolt! JMO Good video.. THANKS!

u did say 7Nm but it looks like u do 70Nm ;)

Use a longer t40 next time

Why you need a torquewrench? You know how much 7 newtonmeters is?? Its nothing and you broke the bolt😂

Your torque wrench was the problem. You have to use a small torque wrench that reads only on inch pounds. One that reads foot pounds isn’t appropriate for this job and isn’t completely immaculate. 7 nm is a VERY low torque.

7Nm is not tight at all. I don’t think your torque wrench works

17 new dont use the big cheap that goes to 25 kilo

@heinz490

Ай бұрын

17 new 1,7 kilo

Bad perfomed repair, no ceramic greas jused, bolt not correct torxt , need = 27 nm en not 270 nm.

17 mm by 7 like what bru be more clear

Why ? you not buy Mercedes parts? That bolt never should of broken. IDI PARTS sounds like cheap chinese crap. Thanx letting us know never buy from them.

When that spanner slipped I stopped watching

You say 7 mn. But you make min 30nm. I habe this Problem you must vuy a kit for the raipair. Helicoil

You forgot to put the ceramic grease on the injector body, so it be easier to remove next time!

@oztihcs

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tip! I will do that if another seal fails.... That said I'm not really sure how much it would have helped given the condition of the injector body when I took it out. Did you see all that carbon, yikes lol.

@zech007

4 жыл бұрын

@@oztihcs The grease is only helps in removal if there's no carbon formed. So if you catch the seal failing early and have the injector body greased up with the correct "ceramic grease" (NOT ANTI-SEIZE for spark plugs) it will come out like hot knife in butter with the engine warm up to operating temp. These injectors seals and bolt replacement are considered maintenance service.