Excellent video!! You didn't just talk about something, you actually showed it. Often guys will just say something like, "you need to tap on it and it should come out". Something very vague and not show what needs to be done. You were very clear and specific. Thank you. Really good video.

This is the best step by step for a DIY mechanic.

Great idea spraying the strut/knuckle joint with marking paint. Next time you have to replace one of these arms try using Sil Glyde on the bushing. It will slide in place much easier and make removal in the future easier. The WD 40 will cause the rubber bushing to swell over time and make removing the arm harder. The Sil Glyde wont swell the bushing.

Folks: If you are doing a control arm job do yourself a favor and remove the bolts that hold the stamped steel plate to the suspension cradle. This includes the large, long bolts, with rubber isolators, that hold the cradle to the unibody. The only exception might be with an extremely rusted vehicle where the long bolts might break. (If the vehicle is in that bad a shape it is probably close to being junked, anyway.) Loosening the second long bolt securing the cradle - there are two on both left and right sides of the vehicle - also makes it easier to remove the front control arm bushing bolt. In fact, if it is easy to jack the engine/transaxle up to clear that bolt, your engine mounts might be shot. The rear bushing on the control arm is located by a rib on the bushing, and the bushing must be trapped in the cradle assembly in the proper position. This is difficult if not impossible with all those bolts in place. (As noted, the two 15mm bolts by the rear bushing must be removed in any case.) And yes, this is the time to have an air wrench. Marking the strut/knuckle relationship with paint or a scribe can be useful, but if your suspension work is extensive it is well worth the modest expense, especially given the cost of tires today, to have an alignment done. And inspect those four axle boots closely for tears, as the CV joints will fail quickly once they occur. Might as well get everything done at once. A note about tightening torque: The big bolts are in the 120-pound range, which basically means as tight as you can get them if you are not using a torque wrench. The most important bolt to tighten sufficiently is that long one through the front control arm bushing. The suspension cradle is cast aluminum and everything else is steel. If that bolt isn’t tight, movement of the control arm over time can enlarge the holes in the cradle bracket, allowing play in the control arm. I sure hope that second control arm from O’Reilly’s has a better bushing. The quick failure of the first is downright scary.

Learnt a lot! Cheers Pal.

Nice job very informative thanks for sharing 👍

Thank you

I wish I knew that trick with 'tire mounting paint' before I replaced my first strut. Would a fine permanent marker pen work? I'll try that (on the other side).

A few years ago I paid $900 to have those done 🥶

I have the same vehicle. Why didn't Chrysler design a small plate attached with 4 short bolts specifically to hold the rear bushing? I'm replacing my outer tie rods, sway bar links and struts. The control arms will be one of my summer projects.

Andy. Look for the Hood light and cordless ratchet at OReilys. Probably not boxed by Wally Martino

@Andys_Auto

Жыл бұрын

I got the hood light and they also gave me a Hart Bit set. I didn't see a ratchet though. Is there more than one package? They literally just now gave them to me. Once again thank you. I really appreciate it.

@craigdavis3212

Жыл бұрын

Xerath is the name of the ratchet. Just delivered less than an hour ago is the email I got. There’s two other ratchets that I’ll send once they’re available. Maybe a few weeks or so. The two priority mail boxes are coming from my CA address so it may take a few extra days. Your absolutely welcome. It’s great to see young men working hard for what they get. I’ve never done the videos on KZread. Just some instructional how too videos long before the internet. But I remember how painful it was to try and make them. And I know it slows you down a lot. Anyways, I’m not giving you anything. You’ve earned them. Best of luck to you!

@Andys_Auto

Жыл бұрын

Ok ill keep an eye out for the other packages. They just gave me the hood light and the bit set today. Thanks again brother.

@Andys_Auto

Жыл бұрын

Hey Craig. I wanted to let you know that unfortunately one of the idiots that works at oreillys actually stole that ratchet before I was able to recieve it. Oreillys worked it out with me and bought me another one so I have it now. I also got those sockets you sent. In the future if you would like to send anything else, shoot me an email at Birdmanafq@gmail.com and I'll just give you my home address so that doesn't happen again. Thank you once again for your generosity. I will put these tools to great use!

wait a second how did i do this without removing anything thing but the one bolt holding it and loosen the cradle a bit. turned a 1 hour job into at least a 5 hour

Andy I own the same year and make van and I use it for my mail route. Lately I’ve been noticing I’ll be driving down the road smooth as can be and suddenly there’s a wicked vibration as if you were hitting a rumble strip, then it goes away again. Do ya think this could be the issue?

@Andys_Auto

Жыл бұрын

It is definitely possible. I would recommend lifting it up and seeing if there is any free play in the ball joint or the bushing to be sure.

@bwcastillo

Жыл бұрын

@@Andys_Auto 10-4. All in all she’s been a pretty reliable vehicle I gotta say.

Anyone know the part number for that pivot bolt for the bushing.

Hello what was the master pro part number and was it heavy duty or standard suspension that u used? the back side bushing is different the heavy duty one has only 1 rubber molding in the middle the standard duty 1 has 3 molded ones on it and doesn't have the pin going past the bushing that actually holds it into place could you please let me know by Gmail me back thank you for your time

How in the heck does a control arm fail after 7 months. They should last 7 to 10 years.

@nelsontempleton2857

3 ай бұрын

you always want to tighten the suspension arms with the suspension under load, with the car on all 4 wheels on a level surface. premature bushing wear otherwise.