It may need cleaning up but it is still a pretty nice piece of equipment for the money. 👍

The next time you get it apart, you should change the hex key bolts to hex head bolts to make removing the chuck easier if you ever get it off.

$200 Chinese dividing head plus $300 worth of careful rebuild labour = priceless! 👍🙂

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

Hobby machining in a nutshell. Cheers

@alienmoonstalker

2 жыл бұрын

It's still amazing to get the head for only 200.

@pieterveenders9793

5 ай бұрын

That pretty much sums up any metalwork machinery and accessoiries from China, unfortunately.

@pieterveenders9793

5 ай бұрын

@@alienmoonstalker That's some expensive head, you need to find better street corners man.

@clasdauskas

Ай бұрын

Alternatively, you could buy a used 'high quality' dividing head for $500 and then spend $500 rebuilding it ...

Sorry for poor English, but I'm try to explain. Since the worm have not firm position against worm gear (worm installed in rotating eccentric part that can engage and disengage the gear, and also you can adjust the backlash in gear by rotating the eccentric), it is impossible to use proper worm gear. I have dismantle some dividing heads and rotary tables, Soviet and European made, and there is always helical gears, it's typical.

You can put threaded studs in the chuck's screw holes, and use tall nuts against the body to press the chuck off. I used this variation to get the chuck off a mini lathe spindle. Mike Taglieri suggested it to me.

That hole that was full of chips is there because this dividing head can be made with a half workm gear to rotate the whole head with a handle about 100°.

I have just received my VEVOR Dividing Head, And have had EXTREME difficulty removing the 4" chuck. I removed the bevel gear shaft to protect the gears and did not use the locking peg because I did not want to damage the unit. The shaft lock was inadequate to hold while I battered the chuck with a lever and a hammer. I tried heating the chuck moderately with a MAP torch to no effect. Not wanting to damage the chuck (more than I may have already) I removed it from the backing plate, to do this I had to file flats on the sides of the 3 cap head screws holding it on, and then used the cap head screws to push the chuck of the backing plate by winding the screws back against the the 24 hole plate behind it. worked very easily. I used pairs of 8mm nuts on the backplate screws to provide leverage points, but more hammering and heating (this time until the release oils smoked) no avail, Noting that you said you made something to help, I hit on the idea of using an ALLEN KEY as a brace to stop the 24 hole plate turning, I found a 3/16" 2.5" long Allen key fitted through a hole from the rear of the plate down to the cast iron foot of the unit was a perfect jamming device. The next attempts with a hammer succeeded fairly quickly in releasing the backplate, which still remained reluctant to come off easily. Inspecting the threads showed a nasty bur on the inside edge of the threads which was causing the backplate to bind up when refitting it, I filed these off with a needle file and smoothed off the tops of the 1st few threads at the rear. After several attempts the backplate fitted more easily. the threads in the backplate are also very roughly finished at the same point, but are so hard I needed a diamond file to smooth them just a little. The supplied thread protector fitted extremely well at all times. Vevor's online description says there is an MT2 in the Chuck end of the main shaft, with a supplied MT2 centre. The online spec also mentions an MT2 tailstock but as far as I can see so far it is a solid bar with a half centre machined on the end. The MT2 centre fits well into MT2 to MT3 convertor that I have, and a mt2 ER40 Collet fits extremely tightly. I suspect that these BS-0 Dividing Heads are made market specific, and USA models may be BS7 as stated in the manual (and original spec)

Outstanding!👍👍👍👍👍

We bought one just like this earlier this year, thanks for detailed information 👍

Thanks for doing this. I've been looking at buying one for myself and this helps. I look forward to watching you use this.

Nice job!

im happy that you did not cut stock by hand.

Great video. I've been looking at one for months. Glad you got the chuck off.

Thank you - yes, I definitely learn something every time you post. Merry Christmas 🎄 👍👍😎👍👍

Great video's of your Dividing Head. I have the same one. I have had it several years. My eccentric adjuster for the worm gear broke because the slot for the adjuster bolt was machined excessively wide. Thanks for the nice video.

Thanks, bought one today. 😊

very nice review,thank you for sharing.

Before changing the worm wheel, remember the cam adjustment adds a sideways component. Also are you sure it is a Morse taper? Page 2 of the manual lists it as a B&S No.7

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

My manual says the same thing, though it seems that manual is copied from another companies BS-0. My parts list lists this as mt2, and all the mt2 tooling seats just as well as it does in my lathes tailstock. Cheers

One of our guys on the ship I was on stripped the worm gear hammering on the chuck to remove it. Easy fix was to remove worm gear and reverse it, tooth contact sufficient to use again.

Interesting video mate. Thanks:))

I gave you a "like" because I now know what those keys are for. I got 4 of them. I also now realize two are for the tailstock as well. Thanks! I think it's a great value! I've had mine about a year now.

The worm gears are non-enveloping. This is why you don't see the concave features. If both the wheel and the shaft have concave features, then it is called a double enveloping design. D-enveloping can carry more torque. Being made of steel is not surprising for the application. Being made of steel they probably didn't deem necessary to add enveloping.

I'll also agree that this is a pretty nice tool for the price point. Still shocking that the factory can't clean these parts of the chips/grit and debris before assembling them. This is so common with many things made in China. Brand new carbs have to be disassembled before use to clean them.

@MyTubeSVp

2 жыл бұрын

They just don’t care. As soon as they do, we’ll all be out of jobs …

@Eluderatnight

2 жыл бұрын

@@MyTubeSVp If they increased the price by $100 they could make it perfect. Phase II is a good example of a quality chinesium brand.

@angrydragonslayer

2 жыл бұрын

Friend bought a chinese turbo and didnt clean the inside before bolting it on his car :)

Thanks, I have the same one but wasn't able to clean it yet

Your lucky to have bearings. Mine is a tapered fit and it’s very difficult to get the preload just right

A chain vise grip do a better job on removing the chuck, it allows for more leverage, hold the grip on the adapter plate because it`s rougher and use a wood sick to tap the vise grip.

@anemac9

2 жыл бұрын

Also with a brass rod and a hammer you can separate the back plate from the chuck. So you could also replace the 3 jaw chuck for a 4 jaw or collet chuck. I used a no-name 5c import and it fits nicely.

Not a bad dividing head for the price

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Well, I think their decision to use a steel instead of bronze worm gear is actually okay. This is because a manual indexing table doesn't see the number of revolutions like a regular gear reducer throughout its useful life. Considering phosphor bronze can cost some 8 times the price of medium carbon steel. And eat through hobs twice as fast. I can see why they cut some corners there.

Where did you purchase your dividing head please

👍💯👍

Still impressive for 200$.

Glad to see it is well tighthened. i dont want to see it unscrew while working. hopefully you disengage the worm gear while trying to remove the chuck. these are presision screw and not very solid.

Spherol fluid grease might be a better option

Look like a bath in lacquer thinner would help

You done good buying one they’ve doubled in price and I put off buying one for months and am now kicking myself royally

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

Really? I was checking out the Vevor store on AliExpress before I posted this and they are going for about $250 AUD. Might vary depending on country I guess. Cheers

@gangleweed

2 жыл бұрын

@@artisanmakes The reason you have a straight cut worm wheel with teeth angled and not one cut with a helix is because the worm rotates on a cam and the worm then moves sideways slightly.....if the worm wheel was cut like a worm wheel in a gearbox ....which is fixed......the worm would jam in the teeth with any sideways move..........I did mention previously with the first review of this dividing head that the worm wheel was cast iron and not bronze but the "experts" disputed this............I have the same dividing head and stripped it when I first bought it for various reasons. BTW......the chuck is screwed on with a right hand thread like a lathe, and as the milling cutter rotates clockwise against a work piece it imparts a force that will tighten the chuck on it's thread........if the cutter is applied against the opposite side of a work piece it could cause the chuck to loosen as happened in an industrial accident many years ago. This is the same as running a lathe in reverse with a screwed on chuck.

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

That makes sense with the worm gear. And I had no reason. Not to believe you when you said it was cast, I just wish that the listing didn't list it as bronze. I'm sure that the manual is ripped off another companies BS-0. Cheers

@qcnck2776

2 жыл бұрын

@@gangleweed Ian, I have a knock off BS-1, and I recently decided to open it up partially to look at the state of the worm gear and worm. Now, I am having trouble getting the worm shaft to go back in and put the mounting bracket back. It seems to be slightly misaligned. Any tricks, thoughts?

@gangleweed

2 жыл бұрын

@@qcnck2776 That's a bit of a puzzle.....make sure the worm eccentric body is rotated slightly as you insert it as it's eccentrically mounted for adjustment of the worm to the worm wheel so you might have it too full in the depth engagement.

One way these manufacturers lower the cost is by skipping a few cleaning steps along the way. Also hardening is often a bit lower than usual, often in the high RC 40s rather than the high 50s. It’s ok, and for the amount of use these will get, wear won’t be a problem with proper lubrication.

Nothing stopping you making another direct index backplate with other divisions for example a 101 or any other division that you can't do normally achieve. You could make alternate size locking pins for tighter devisions if swapping the existing locking plate or Bolt a second locking pin further out from centre probably on side of the body with a larger diameter plate you could have the new dividing plate machined to bolt over the existing one temporarily removing the chuck to mount and dismount as needed. It would probably take less time to swap the wheels than it would to use the indirect dividing handle especially if you are machining multiple parts Common divisions in automotive work are 36 (for 36-1 trigger wheel) and 60 (for 60-2 trigger wheel) Another option would be to index the outer edge and have a radial locking pin, it would obscure the degree marks though.

Great work, you are giggling now. You may be able to mount a four jaw chuck. A face plate may assist with clearance when in the horizontal mode?

i blows my mind that they leave so many chips behind b4 assembling them in the factory, i want to pick one of these up so bad but the price an the mill i have is smaller than what u have so i dont know if i could even use one this size on my mill so ive just been looking to pick up a 4" rotary table instead but it would still be nice to have one of these.

Can you machine a threaded bushing to use a 3 jaw puller from auto store on the backplate?

I reckon that hole full of chips can be used as an oil reservoir

how is the run out on the MT taper? i want to use a MT2 to er collet chuck.

Good video, I would be interested to know if the high quality ones are made in the same factory or if they are a copy, cause all these knockoff versions remind me of my Fake rolex years ago that was only fake because the watch maker wasn't allowed to use the real faceplates or loose whatever deal he had going with the factory

To remove the chuck could you not turn a bar with the same thread as the spindle and hold another bar in the chuck jaws? Rotate the screw to add pressure and then tap with a hammer. Might work.. Great video as always. 😁

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

Yes but my lathe probably wouldn't be up to turning threads that big. I'm sure I can get it to cut imperial threads, but probably not threads with such a low TPI

Thank you for an excellent video! Please may you explain how the spindle lock/clamp works? (Not the indexing pin) Cheers

@keithmiles8228

Жыл бұрын

is it shown at 4:19? does the lever on the side close the clamp?

@artisanmakes

Жыл бұрын

The clamp is just a split collar, as you tighten the lever it clamps on to the shaft that connects to the worm gear and chuck, which clamps everything ok place

@Artisan Makes you just got a subscrider! Really good and quality content! Keep on sharing videos!👍👍by the way, what camera are you using?

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers, glad you like the video. For most work I use a cannon 600d and a cannon 80d with a EFS 18-135 for most shots, and a EFS 35mm for macro stuff.

I have looked at these online and wondered about them, were they boat anchors or actually worth having. In the new year i might take a chance and buy one. Did yours come with a tailstock and different indexing plates ?

@leslieaustin151

2 жыл бұрын

Watch the previous video to see all the parts he got with it. Les in UK

I need to remove my chuck and you said "jig" bit didn't show it. I want to know how to safely lock thr head without ruining either the indexing plate/bass rod or worm gear.

Well chuck me

Hello i just bought a BS-0 DIVIDING HEAD AND BOOK SAYS THE CENTER IS A B&S NO 7 ON PAGE 2

@artisanmakes

Жыл бұрын

Maybe your one does, but my one is MT2, which is not what was originally used on these BS dividing heads.

Where did you find one for 200?

@cellzapper

Жыл бұрын

Currently back in stock ay VEVOR in the UK for £195 inc shipping

@foam_blaster

Жыл бұрын

@@cellzapper very good, thank you

That's actually a BS taper, not a Morse. My rig required a lot of deburring as well.

@artisanmakes

2 жыл бұрын

They are very similar, though it's a bit up in the air to what this is. My manual says BS 7, although it's just ripped from someone else's manual. The parts list says this is mt2 and the dead centre is listed as mt2. It seats mt2 stuff decently. Might have to blue it up to see what the contact is like

@fredflintstone8048

2 жыл бұрын

@@artisanmakes The model in the video is exactly the same as mine. It's a chinese knock-off of the BS-0. The actual Brown and sharp - 0 manual is downloadable off the web and fits the unit perfectly in all ways if one needs a manual. It's handy because it has a table for setting up the dividing plates for milling gear teeth as well as the other features. In the manual it also specs the taper as a bs taper.

@cellzapper

Жыл бұрын

I looked up the difference between Morse and BS tapers they are no way compatible if MT2 fits, then it IS MT2

@fredflintstone8048

Жыл бұрын

@@cellzapper Depends on what you mean by 'fits'.. Since you cannot look in the bore after sliding in another taper it may be touching at one point and feeling snug.. That doesn't mean the tapers actually match.

@cellzapper

Жыл бұрын

@@fredflintstone8048 You are of course correct it fits where it touches, I have revisited the Taper Data and the MT2 will be very loose at the big end, being 20 thousands smaller, and the the taper is different but it is giving me a headache trying to visualise the info, needless to say the taper is also different. I have just received my VEVOR Dividing Head, and their online description says MT2 in the Chuck end, with a supplied MT2 centre. The MT2 centre fits well into MT2 to MT3 convertor that I have, and a mt2 ER40 Collet fits extremely tightly in the dividing head. I suspect that these BS-0 Dividing Heads are made market specific, and USA models may be BS7 as stated in the manual (and original spec)

What is the thread on the "spindle"?

@qcnck2776

2 жыл бұрын

1 1/2" - 8 (1.5" x 8 tpi) according to the manual

@robert574

3 ай бұрын

I saw something that said they used the MyFord thread which would be Whitworth 55 degree. Can anyone confirm this?@@qcnck2776

Just think how successful of a product it would be if they hit it with an air gun and spent less than a minute with a file on it (ones of the right shape). The difference between a worm mesh and a cross helix is massive in load capacity. Worm mesh has a line of contact while a cross helix has point contact. So in this application cross helix is probably ok so long as you never turn the head under cutting load... I really don't know what the failure mode would be, excessive wear sure, but would it really fail? IDK

How can a 3 jaw chuck be accurate enough to make gears?

@artisanmakes

4 ай бұрын

Depends what tolerance you are working to. Involute gears are pretty resilient to a bit of run out

@sblack48

4 ай бұрын

@@artisanmakes a 3j can easily have 4 or 5 thou (~0.1mm) of runout. That’s not an issue for a gear?

I didn't see worm 😕

Finding chips inside a new piece of equipment is indicative of the lack of quality control within Asian imports.

The timeline 6:20 😧👉 Never use hammer direct on the spindle! Use the 3 screws to mount the bearing house on the indexing head. If you are knocking the spindle then you can damage the tapered roller bearing.

CHI-NA

... what we see here is the quality control, or lack thereof, in Chinese manufacturing ...

You do realize that if that spindle thread were on a cap screw it would take several hundred lb/feet of torque to bring it to full spec? I wager you were not using even a fraction of that before it came off. I'm not saying it wasn't too tight. Just keeping perspective.

It would probably be better to buy the thing unassembled and do that work yourself.

@artisanmakes

Жыл бұрын

Not sure if you could buy it unassembled.

@mikegarwood8680

Жыл бұрын

@@artisanmakes It would save a lot of time.

It's not really a 200.00 dividing head- more like a 400.00 unit, but the Chinese government is dumping thousands of products on the market at below cost to drive out competitors and boost their failing export industry.

What thread is that chuck? 39x4? If that is the same as the Jet/Enco 9x20 lathe it would be amazing.