Have never understood everybody taping off the seams on the bottom of a car before applying seam sealer. Up until the advent of robotics applying perfect beads of seam sealer, it was all put on by hand and just nicely (kinda) smeared over and along the seams. They didn't waste time and money pissing around masking off the seams to make them look pretty after the seam sealer was applied and the masking removed. Run a nice bead then use a stiff bristle brush to smooth out the seam sealer along the seam and DONE, leaving it looking just like I did when it rolled off the factory floor.

Loving your ingenious rotisserie for the body!

One thing U-pol aggressively mentioned to me when I contacted them about their product being used to coat the bottom of a car after a restoration, was to never spray their raptor liner directly over a seam sealer without first applying a primer or adhesion promoter over the seam sealer first.

That rotisserie is just ingenious well done man enjoying your content

Another great video! Learning lots. Post videos for everything. Your vids are on point for the home diy'er

Great video man. Getting ready to do the exact same thing today on my '55 Chevy. I appreciate the good info!

Raptor liner rules, nice job as always, ya here in TN my body working is done till late February early march, thanks for all your hard work

This turned out awesome man.

I love the Raptor liner, I used on my 69...turned out great!

Most people don't appreate what that adds to protection on the bottom of any vehical! Looks awesome, I bed linered mine and no regrets!!!!

Looks great 👍

Just found your channel, liking the work. Regarding your question to us, the audience, about seam sealer: According to collision repair standards (moving target) which follows the manufacturers recommendations along with constantly updated science, best practice is to seam seal everything on all sides. Any collision repair and new welds get seam seals even if it wasn’t that way from the factory. The thinking is that the manufacturers usually dip the vehicles and use electric charge to suck zinc and corrosion inhibitors into the seams. Once thats disturbed we can’t replicate that so we follow a sandwich of protection. Now given its a 70’s era vehicle its very different then most vehicles on the road, but a sandwich of seam sealer/adhesive and 2k primers along with cavity wax in all cavities post paint is the way to go. Your work looks great though and most people dont bother with seam sealer anyway, even the collision repair shops that are supposed to be doing it and know better lol.

Nice work my friend.

Nice video with good info. I am a belt and suspenders guy so on the bottom of doors and rockers where the factory stamp raise weep holes to escape, my 67 C10 cab will be bare metal (Chemical strip / I bought 15 gallons of the good aircraft stripper w/methylene chloride in it and keep a hand held sand blaster for hard stuff.) I noticed price change with no explanation until Oct 2019 hit. The EPA claimed that 41 souls had been lost since 1976. Seriously? They loose that many in Chicago on a weekend. What a shame. The truth is, they can't keep track of waist! That's it, nothing else. But I welded weak spots and had very little rust but no history on where it spent it's life. I used Dynaglass top & bottom, seam sealer everyplace two sheet metals came together. In NE, water still splashes up and a thin layer of dynaglass, epoxy, black bottle Raptor went on the frame and the cab (Inside and out, over seam sealer like your, epoxy then Raptor. I did paint the frame black w/ clear using a catalyzed commercial paint with lots of air/sun bake. I draw my schematics for wire and fittings used for fuel & brake lines. The remaining holes where welded shut as if never there. I did the inside of both doors but just seam sealer and epoxy. Nothing on threads or moving parts as they were removed or plugged. $5 at a swap meet got me 50 corks small to 5/8". Verify that all openings for water to drain are open. Retired give me time and about $1k a month to progress forward as I have seen techs with their Falcon or "F" body in 3-4 colors get married, have kids and come to work in a minivan one day. It's my turn as I get close to my mid 60's to see the leather buckets, PCM, BCM and Tach module from an "LS" swap to my bench built 4L60 and cruise. It's a driver! Best of luck with your project. I make a service manual for my truck to make it easy, cell by cell. That's the part most forget as right there is the diagnostic flow chart. Look up the code, follow instructions, replace or repair, part numbers and company but 98% GM off the shelf in stock. Connectors marked, numbered, wire colors, size and photos of each in location. Paper, thumb drive and CD. If they can't figure it out, go to the dealer. Same stuff. Same with paint! Ain't that where we started! You bet cha! Have a lucky one. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78

Dan that turned out really nice.

Moisture is going to penetrate from outside in. Unless you’re hosing out the interior of the vehicle, exterior seams are the most important to seal. Leaving exterior seams unsealed will only guarantee rust. Seal both interior and exterior. Just be careful to leave engineered drain channels open. Note: seams are not drain channels.

@bentonmaxton7812

2 жыл бұрын

i guess im randomly asking but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can give me

@bentonmaxton7812

2 жыл бұрын

@Kamden Jimmy I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@bentonmaxton7812

2 жыл бұрын

@Kamden Jimmy it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thank you so much, you saved my account !

@kamdenjimmy7707

2 жыл бұрын

@Benton Maxton You are welcome :)

@whiteviper1979

8 ай бұрын

Yea it's actually better if you weld both sides as well top/bottom/interior/exterior but if you only weld one I'd personally weld the exterior one and then seam seal top coat it after you prepare everything of course with that being said seam seal the interior as well!!!

Great jobb!

Looking good Dan! There was seam sealer on my 70 between the wheel tub and quarter panel flanges and trunk drop and flanges. I think you did what was necessary with the Raptor. That should seal the flanges I would think. I used Raptor on a 53 1/2 ton Chevrolet truck, color tinted with good success so far on the wheel tubs. It has been two years and so far I am happy with its performance with rocks, water, etc. You can cut if needed to get the final finish you want. I didn't want a really rough texture.

Ear plugs! I used it to fill the bolt holes laying lizard skin and it worked like a charm

A seam seal was used to fill the gap in the joined panels. Later up to today seam seal is used to fill the small holes left from welding burn thru.

nice bro looks good got 1 question for you tho why did you go raptor liner instead of something like por15? Also TIP when painting instead of tape wads to fill bolt holes try foam ear plugs squeeze them put them in and let them expand and fill the hole thanks again man love these videos they keep me movtivated on my project keep it up👊

@akeelshah7904

2 жыл бұрын

Por15 is a rust converter and raptor liner is a undercoating sort of thing protects truck beds and steel in general

Don’t be afraid to BLINK! Essential for keepin those lookers lubed…

Tell me there’s a video on how you made that wooden frame. 😮

hello dear. Got any updates to post? looking forward.

Looks great! What pressure was used and coats? Thanks boss

is u-pol gravitex more rubberized? would u-pol raptor bedliner be more resistant? esp for undercoating?

what kind of compressor did you use to spray that raptor liner?

Love the rotiserie. Curious how much product to do the underside? Just one coat? Thanks

Before spry the raptor , what was the black color that chasisi had

how is this raptor lining holding up ?

Should’ve been able to look under your nova and all the seam sealer areas should’ve been pretty much the same.

I wanna know how you made your rotisserie I've never seen one out of wood and I need 1 for my 67 Camaro build and I want to know how to build 1 for myself

Hi Dan, glad to see your back on the project, I would love to have all that room you have in your new shop. I just started on a 1981 trans am and just purchased Detroit speed sub frame connectors, do have a video of installing yours ? Thanks,Scott

how many bottles to spray the bottom?

Is it still Holding up

The wooden tip over jig you made, did you make it like that so you can move the plywood to the other end, so you can flip it the other way? Nice one. I was thinking of making one that has castors so I can move it around. Great Job mate.

@jaliennation9169

2 жыл бұрын

need plans for that jig asap!

I see you were using seal, isn't better welding it? 🤔👍🏁🌎🇺🇲

I have a 70 waiting to be worked on...and I have to do the same

Why didn't you mini-tub it? Or even mini mini-tub it ... never heard of anyone doing that but it appears the back inside corner of the wheel wells are what limits going up a size or 2.

You don't upload video any more?