A very thoughtful and solid approach to welding in new pans.

I always use and tell everyone to use a Whitney hole punch which is more accurate from the edges and faster. It leaves a nice hole to weld through.

beautiful and clear video. Awesome work. Perfect. Thank you for showing us.

Great job of illustrating what it takes to do this, you edited out a lot of unnecessary footage which is appreciated. I also appreciate leaving the mistakes. We have all been humbled and can relate.

very good video, Thank You for sticking to the points and not talking about stuff that doesn't matter. I will keep watching your videos.

My son and I are doing a 1968 Mustang Coupe. and we are following you step-by-step on floorboards and torque boxes. you're absolutely awesome!!!!thank you very very much!

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Skotiedog You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.

@oldsgamer72cutlass19

7 жыл бұрын

I'm also doing the same. love the details.

Good work , good job . Thanks for posting ..

Great Video, love your attention to detail and explanations

@JoDaddysGarage

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Good job it's coming along

Wow... really nice job.... Thanks for video...

Great job SIR !! Fine workmanship you can work on my car any-time, hard to fine true professionals these day's . Hfx NS. Canada

Awesome stuff, thanks

Great video. I had planned on doing this to my '68 fastback but health problems have put a halt to this and I sold my Mustang. :-( Keep up the great work though!

I am working on a 65 Mustang coupe.. One thing I'm able to do when putting hope around a flange is I have a hand punch which for me speeds things up. I have learned a lot watching your videos. The project has a big learning curve for me. You are truly a master craftsman. Keep it up.

yep, its all in the details!

Really enjoyed your video. Very educational. I noticed that you were not mig welding the floor panel. I am beginning to learn welding and have some floorboards to replace. Can you explain the advantage and disadvantages of the different welding techniques and why one is better than another? Keep the video's coming. they do answer a lot of questions.

@JoDaddysGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Actually I mig weld everything. I prefer that over flux core as mig is cleaner.

Thank you for this! I am restoring a 68 fastback and was debating whether to go full floor or separate sides and your videos are very helpful. How did you address the bottom of the pans? Did you do any welding around the pan from the bottom or just seam sealer? Keep 'em coming Thanks!

@JoDaddysGarage

6 жыл бұрын

I typically do a full perimeter weld on top, and trim excess from bottom, and blend, treat, and seam seal.

new subscription... love your work. Learning a lot but, you keep saying that you drill out holes for plug welding but surely you use a pneumatic punch/flange tool, right? If not, get one!!! So much easier and faster than drilling that it's actually fun:)

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

I had one at the body shop. They're great, but don't have much depth. I will likely get one at some point.

First off - Love your videos. Very inspiring. My question is this - what will you do about the lap joint from underneath? Will you fully weld that seam as well? I have a '64 el-camino I need to do this to. Problem being that I want to lap my pan flat along the rocker as I have seen, BUT that will leave an exposed lap between the floor and the frame of the car. The only way I can see to deal with (lap or butt) the back side would be to lift he body off frame to address this issue. Any other suggestions?

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Herb Kaup Thanks for the comment. I will not weld the seam underneath. It's not necessary. I will lightly hammer the edge flat, spray with epoxy primer and seam seal. It will be water tight, and plenty strong. Being that you have a full frame car, you may not have a choice but to get the body off of the frame.....sorry.

nice work. im getting ready to do my front driver frame rail. i watched your video where you patched one, but do you have any tips or information to replace the whole thing. ordering a new driver side rail, have floor extensions already and new floors like what you just installed.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+callofgeorge I have not done a full rail. If you can make sure the car is level and square, you should be able to make measurements from the old one and verify the location of the new one as it goes in. Might even be able to tack up some rigid contact point to make sure it's in the right place.

Thanks for the great video. Can you tell me what size welding wire did you use and can you tell what the setting are you using on your welder are?

@JoDaddysGarage

6 жыл бұрын

Wire is .025. Power level is 2, and feed is between 2 and 2.5

Bear it looks great! I was wondering lap versus butt weld. Some guys insist on the butt weld for body panels. What is your opinion comparing them? Thanks

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Dave Brittain For body panels, I would prefer the butt weld. (Quarter panels and such) for floor pans, I prefer the lap weld. It's strong, and it won't warp. If I was worried about appearance, I would do a full floor.

Thanks for the great video. I'm about to attempt the same repair. I cant tell in the video, but reading the comments they indicate that you're doing a lap weld at the kick ups, trans tunnel and rear curve area. My local body shop says that they add a flange along the trans tunnel. Then cut the new floor pan to fall into the flange. Do you see any problem with that? I dont see how the curves can be flanged, or how the ribbed area in the kick up can be flanged.

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I do a lap weld on the tunnel and rear area. The side, I do spot welds. I haven't see anyone add a flange like that. I normally lay the new pan in place after some trimming, and trace it. Cut about 1/2" below that line, and reset. I try to leave about 1/4" overlap, and weld solid. I will then go underneath, and blend down the rough edge with a sanding disc. Leaving just a little to hammer flat. Spray with etch primer or epoxy, and seam seal later.

Great Work. In the section you were drilling out holes for the seat belt mount, would it be fair to say you use those drill bits for drilling out your spot welds? If so, in a different video where you drilled both pieces of metal on a torque box, then match the holes up to weld it back together, would you use a piece of copper as backing on the holes to weld the torque box together?

@JoDaddysGarage

2 жыл бұрын

You could use a drill bit like that. You could also use a backing plate if needed.

I have a question. when you're welding a new floor pan do you overlap the new pan with the old metal or is it better to butt weld? thanks....awesome video!!!

@JoDaddysGarage

6 жыл бұрын

I typically do a lap. It's stronger and can be easily hidden. I will weld the top, trim the bottom, treat and seal.

Like to see the car now in 2020😎if you still have it.

Would there be an issue created if you used self taping screws to fasten the panels down and in place? Then after welding the holes around the spaced screws, remove the screws and plug weld the spaced out screw holes? I was thinking that it might be easier to adjust and place the panels. Thanks for the video.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+amtpdb1 I've done the same thing before. It works fine.

I've noticed on your old floor pan and the new floor pan that you've installed the distance between the seat pan and the seat belt is different also.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Stangresto Guess I never really noticed before.

I'm in the process of installing floor pans in my 65 mustang and I noticed that the seat belt bump out are not in the same location, they are moved about 6" towards the rear. Are all the new floor pans made the same? Does this cause any problems with the belt? Thanks

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Stangresto Hmm... I've not seen that before. I don't think it would hurt other than it takes up some of the seat belt length.

Your thoughts on panel quality and manufacture supply. You had stated premium panel.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Dave Lowell There are a variety of suppliers. Panels will vary from each. I have been pleased with dynacorn, and just about anything that states "original tooling". It stands to reason that typically if you pay a little more, you end up with a better panel. I get my sheet meal from Mustangs Unlimited. Mostly because they are only about an hour from my house, and I can actually see the pieces before I buy them.

Why do you fully weld the lap joint on the trans tunnel and not on the flange side that's spot welded? Just curious. Great work btw

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

Good question. The reason for the full weld at the tunnel, is I want to replicate the structure that was there. On the side, it had factory spot welds every few inches. I replicated that.

@cturboaddict

4 жыл бұрын

@@JoDaddysGarage makes sense. I was curious if it was a structural integrity thing or not. Thanks for the tip.

did you use a shrinker/strethcher for your home made patch panel

@JoDaddysGarage

7 жыл бұрын

I did not. Shaped by hand/hammer/dolly.

What is that black tube/ support you got connected to the frame rail end? Do you have a name or brand of it? Thanks i love whatching your videos/facebook to learn and go on my own route on my 68

@JoDaddysGarage

Жыл бұрын

The square tube under/around the frame rail is the floor support.

What do you use to weld the pan in mig or tig

@JoDaddysGarage

5 жыл бұрын

I use a mig.

I've got rust on both sides of the rear floor pan at the drain plugs on my Torino would you replace that section without the plugs.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Leonard Gilbreath You mean eliminate the plugs?

@leonardgilbreath9004

8 жыл бұрын

Jo the replacement pans that are available don't have them and if I can make that small section and just eliminate them.

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

+Leonard Gilbreath It only matters if you're trying to look original. Those holes were there for jigging purposes when on the assembly line. No need to keep them.

Another great video! If that corner hadn't been so poorly "repaired" before you got to it, would you have left the parent material there when you put the pan in, or would you still have made your own pocket piece?

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

I likely would have left the corner, and formed it to fit.

Hey Barry. That outer perimeter weld is that a butt weld or is there a slight over lap/lip on the trans tunnel?

@JoDaddysGarage

3 жыл бұрын

I do an overlap in the trans tunnel and perimeter. Spot welds on the inner rocker like factory.

@sammyp881

3 жыл бұрын

@@JoDaddysGarage thank you so much again. You are such an amazing asset to this community. If you're ever in Oklahoma City please let me know. THANKS!

Hi! I've been following your videos and would like to get in contact with you about a 70 mustang. I've got some questions I hope you can help me out on. What is the best way to private message you?

@JoDaddysGarage

8 жыл бұрын

You can email me. jodaddysgarage@gmail.com

Where'd you get your pans?

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

These came from Mustangs Unlimited.

Where did you get the Floor pan from?

@JoDaddysGarage

6 жыл бұрын

Mustangs unlimited.

@calvinameigh855

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Keep up the good work. You are helping me with my 1965.

Nice work !! Keep it coming are you for hire ?

@JoDaddysGarage

5 жыл бұрын

Possibly. Lots of projects still to do.

@marsyard5445

5 жыл бұрын

@@JoDaddysGarage nice , well whenever you have some free time I wouldn't mind chatting about a few things

@JoDaddysGarage

5 жыл бұрын

Send me an email. jodaddysgarage@gmail.com

How do you tell if a car is too far rusted away to be worth it?

@JoDaddysGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Rough question. I’ve started with some pretty bad cars.

So you didn't blend the underside of the tunnel? You just over lapped it and filled it with sealer? Let me guess cuz nobody will ever look underneath?

@JoDaddysGarage

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, no. I blend the underside without making the metal thin. Spray with epoxy and then seam seal prior to undercoating. It leaves an obvious transition, but then again, I don't try to hide the repairs. I guess you could do it another way and lie to people.

Grind that black junk off and use epoxy primer but make sure your ready for 2 k primer 15 hrs😮