1950 Chevy Truck (Ep 76) Hood Prep for Primer - Underside of the Hood
Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары
Today we get the hood flipped over and get to work on getting everything sanded, smoothed, deburred and some body filler on the dent repair we did previously on the exterior of the hood. I have some tips on making the old hood look that much nicer when it is all painted and installed.
If you have a project you would like to showcase at the end of one of my videos just email me a few pics and a short description to: foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com
Пікірлер: 19
Very nice attention to detail, Mark😊 JR 🇨🇦
Nice work Mark, good tips and your attention to detail is outstanding.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Rodney. Most of what I know came from mistakes I made or things I wish I had done BEFORE I sprayed the color. Mark
Thanks Mark. I really learn a lot from your videos. I’m a long way from paint, but I’ll go back and review these when it’s time.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
I appreciate that Robert. Just keep slugging away at that 49 and little by little you will get there. Warm weather will be here soon enough so it will be easier to get motivated. Mark
Hey Mark Another good one. BTW. There’s a lot of great info in your replies to the comments. Thanks.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Jack I appreciate that. Mark
Your attention to detail Mark is second to none. I have the same mindset. This will help me to work on my hood later on and see where I might have challenges. I did have one question for you. I have the same die grinder from Harbor Freight. The nut on the underside of the collet keeps backing out on me. This is a left-hand thread. I'll tighten it back up and then it backs itself out again. Does your tool ever do that? Do I need some thread locker on there maybe?
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
None of mine have ever backed out like that. Sounds like you got a bad one. Take it back or I guess thread locker should do the trick. They are cheap enough to just toss them when they act up.
Nice work crown panel are tough (for me) much easier to make panel flat
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
Flat panels can be tough over all on a long car since a large wave can show easily but you are right correct they are easier to work out. Mark
Thanks for the video. Would there be any advantage to painting the hood in 2 halves? Is there going to be a problem getting the trim piece back in? Thank you for your time.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
Those rivets are a bear to deal with and replace getting them as tight as factory. The center trim molding will be test fitted in prime to make sure it will go back on as easily as possible once it is all in paint. Painting it all in one piece makes sure the color lays down nice and even and looks great with the sun shining down on it. Great question. Mark
@lazyhoundracing9621
Жыл бұрын
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Great explanation. I guess I haven't looked that close at mine. I didn't realize they were riveted. I live in Indiana so it won't be long before I can get on the chassis and body of my 53 3100. I need some big ticket items on my engine like a $7000 intake but I can do body work while letting the budget build. I don't like to do heavy cutting and welding in my small shop. Thank you for your reply.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
@@lazyhoundracing9621 I guess you could bolt the halves back together and it would be just fine, just not factory but your truck is far from factory isn't it? Down the center would be easy but there are rivets that attach the hinge brace too. Body work is cheap compared to engine parts so that should keep you busy while the budget rebounds a little. Mark
I have the same style truck 1949 3100 . I'm working on prepping it for paint now and your videos have been very helpful. One question I have is my truck currently has a couple layers of paint, the original paint and then a respray with a single stage lacquer paint job many years ago in red. It needed a few patch panels and needs some filler in a few areas from some minor dings but overall is in good shape. I am debating on whether I should strip it down to bare metal 1st then epoxy primer, body filler, high build primer then base coat/clear coat. Or just skip taking it down to bare metal and da sand the exiting finish to rough it up then start from there with the epoxy primer and filler. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
I am glad I have been of some help to you Austin. On this truck it was cost and time prohibitive to strip the truck but that is always the best way to go on vehicles of this age. If the lacquer has not checked and crazed (caused be shrinking) after all these years you are probably okay to sand it really well and then apply primer and go from there. Since this is your truck and your time is free going all the way back down to bare white metal is a good choice, especially since you haven't owned the truck its whole life and there could be some janky repairs hidden under all that paint. If you think there is hidden rust and you plan on keeping the truck a long time then stripping it would be best. Let me know if you have any other questions and be sure to send me pics of your project so I can showcase them. Mark
@austinwilken8022
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the help. I definitely will send some pictures over. What's the best way to get pictures to you?
@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Жыл бұрын
@@austinwilken8022 You are very welcome Austin. You can email me at: foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com Send a few pics and something about your project. Mark