A suggestion: whoever drilling into a place where you dont want shavings, grease up the flutes of the drill. Most of the shavings will stick to the grease and not fall into where they are not welcome.

@davidhirschboeck6872

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much was helpful for me :)

@frrapp2366

4 жыл бұрын

also works with taps my 01 ford pu blew a plug and the mechanic put an insert in and used grease to keep shavings out of the cylinder

@arlynsmith9196

3 жыл бұрын

A few shaving in the water jacket will not harm a 70 year old engine. I promise. It is not like shavings were going into anyplace where they would matter.

@DoRC

3 жыл бұрын

@@arlynsmith9196 I understand that. It was more of a general piece of advice.

Freezing water is impressive. Had a Small Block Chevy 307 hold a 1/2 crack all along the water jacket. Ran beautiful, but mixed water with the oil.

@mustie1

7 жыл бұрын

a milk shake maker

@alericjohansen6775

3 жыл бұрын

I remember they did an experiment somewhere where they made a solid steel ball have water in it, and it broke through it. I know that's an old comment, but wanted to add my 2 cents, lol

@markhenry5294

3 жыл бұрын

@@alericjohansen6775 Nothin wrong with that!

@squatchhammer7215

3 жыл бұрын

@@alericjohansen6775 nothing at all, there's an industrial process that uses water to form steel into various shapes.

I realize this is a year old video but I wanted to add you can fix a crack like that with JB Weld. We had the same thing on a Ford 7000 years ago and I took a grinder and and slightly opened the crack just a little and then filled it in with JB Weld. A couple of days later I grinded it to look smoother and then we decided to just repaint and label the tractor. You could never tell it. JB Weld is amazing.

Hey Mustie, I just retired from being in the automotive business with exhaust shops and we mig welded a lot of cast iron manifolds and they held!,,, You did such a great job on the preparation that I swore it would have worked!

What a hoot to watch you tinker! Same thought on that broken pulley. Things like that make one wonder how many surprises are awaiting on the rest of the tear down. Can't believe the rebuilder didn't put coolant in right off the bat where cooling systems rust up so fast without or at least - make it well understood to the owner that just water was used.

@mustie1

7 жыл бұрын

it gets better the more we go to the internals

@sheilamclaughlin963

4 жыл бұрын

Anti freeze will mess a new rebuild if it leaks, water doesn’t when u know everything is ok then put antifreeze in it

Hey Mustie1 I admire your effort, I think you learned a lesson and allowed many others to learn the same. Another great video with excellent narration considering it's all as you go along with no script. Keep them coming my friend, I really look forward to watching and learning.

I bet the last people who worked on it lost two of the head nuts and replaced them with regular hex nuts. Prior to WW2, nuts were made a larger hex size than the same size bolt. In order to save material for the war effort, they started making them the same size. You can still buy them today sold as "heavy hex nuts". When we come across them in the field we just refer to them as "WW2 nuts".

@FredMiller

7 жыл бұрын

I appreciate your explanation! Always like those kind of off the wall history facts! Fred

In 1964 Dad had a1953 AC tractor with a cracked block and we took the engine to a man that heated the whole block, then welded it and buried it in sand for several days to cool it slow and it's still holding. Catapiler sent engine blocks from Wisconsin to Texas to get blocks welded, that's how good he was.

@kylesimukka

6 жыл бұрын

That is an excellent tip. Do you happen to know if the sand has to be dry? I would assume any moisture in the sand would contradict the intended goal of cooling the engine block slowly.

@williamsmith455

5 жыл бұрын

I had understood that cast iron is very complicated to try to weld. If you heat it up unevenly, it will crack. Sounds like this guy knows what he is doing.

@martianshoes

5 жыл бұрын

Probably talking "Grey" or flake cast iron. You would be looking at >3% carbon and 2% silicon...not an easy combo for welding. The part where he heated it up was pretty cagey...iron mongers of the last 500 years would heat it up and hammer it together... Best way to achieve fusion if it is feasible.

@aquaticthumb5193

5 жыл бұрын

Kyle Simukka Duh

@danokerr9929

5 жыл бұрын

When my grandfather and I were building 327 Chevy we had a few blocks that were destroyed from the corvette fuel pumps being drilled crooked the blocks are from the 60s and we wanted to use them. We took a old oven we had in our barn and got the oven up to 500 degrees. Took a torch heated up the block and brazed the block. Still runs and we still have 4 spare blocks

Good try! When I saw you talking about welding a cast iron block crack, I've think to myself "If this guy could do it so easy, it will be a miracle." I like the honest way you show all the mistakes. Best regards!

I have a 1955 chevy 235 cu in a 1949 GMC 1/2 ton pickup that I have been driving for 24 years. The engine has a cracked block that was repaired with JB Weld. still running without a leak.

@kennethkustren9381

4 жыл бұрын

It is sealed, not repaired. Try an OXYHDROGEN TORCH. AKA... HHO ... A SIMPLE ELECTROLYSIS OF STAINLESS STEEL ANODE AND CATHODE, IN WATER.

@leonleclair3471

22 күн бұрын

@@kennethkustren9381

Thing was cracked all over yet still started up and purred like a kitten. Good old reliable tractor. It's too bad that both the mechanic shop and the owner failed to check for antifreeze. You'd think that to be second nature in New England. Heck even down here in Dallas I check the coolant on everything at least every fall. And we may or may not see any below freezing temps for more than a few days during any given winter. My father was no mechanic but as a shade tree do-it-yourselfer one thing he taught us was to always check the fluids, filters, hoses, and belts.

I learned how to drive on a 1953 model. Thanks for the memories.

Thats a might nice shop you got there, friend.

@mustie1

7 жыл бұрын

thanks

My uncle has a FARMALL that was abandoned by the city of my town. They said he won't get it fixed and it will never run. I told the worker it's a FARMALL made in USA. I watched and assisted him when he was working on it for a few days then eventually got it running! They are soo simple high quality products and your rig is a testament that they don't make'em like they used to!

I absolutely love you're channel! I wish I could have your knowledge but then again I'm watching your videos.

impressed with your knowledge of the older engines.

Really enjoy your videos, all straight forward and easy to follow.

I love farmall (IH). Especially the antiques. Very cool! Nice job!

70 degrees in PA today and two Mustie vids in 24 hours. Good times, man.

@mustie1

7 жыл бұрын

took a motorcycle ride for 2 hrs today

@iamrichrocker

7 жыл бұрын

yes Sir..life is good...and we don't take this good weather for granted up here in Buffalo..

@jasonmurawski126

7 жыл бұрын

0fend0 now it's cold here in Michigan

@marksweldingmech.srvcs.9881

7 жыл бұрын

You should of been using castolin utecktic stick rod for cast iron

@marksweldingmech.srvcs.9881

7 жыл бұрын

I wouldn't even show this, you didn't even re wire wheel the shit out of it before trying to weld it and ya don't tig cast iron and please accept my apologies for sounding like a bitch session.

Mig welder works good on cast iron. I have welded several cast iron projects with a mig welder. Haven't had anything crack yet knock on wood.

As a certified welder, many tears ago, engine blocks are castings ... made with lots of air bubbles, impurities and just about everything else under the sun, they are a BITCH to weld.

Really enjoying this series of the Farmall A because when I lived in New Hampshire I had one.

I think that pully is cold fitted i;e heated then put on the shaft and cooled down to make a perfect seal and the bolt in the end has gone in a field yrs ago. Great work and much respect for trying to repair that block Mustie1.

Heating the cast iron around the area to be welded is your friend, I had a friend that was a VERY good welder and we ( I ran the rose bud torch as he welded) Would heat the area to be welded with a rose bud and he then welded up a cast iron block on a John Deere tractor and it worked like a champ. Not trying to be negative it worked for us. Great video!!

Must've. I found a free 1968 camaro. Gonna try to get it running after 25 yrs. love your vids and outside the box thinking. That's missing in 90% of our youth.

Subd! I appreciate that you shared how you approach fixing things. You probably learned so much by trying to weld that crack and probably know exactly what doesn't work the next time you try it.

Awesome job Mustie1, watched the dismantle n rebuild.........................its so satisfying when everything goes back together and no bits left over and it goes well !

My Dad was a welder for 40 years. He was one of the old school guys. I've seen him braze up allot of engine block with a gas welding tip and brass rod.

What a great video!!! (well, ALL of your videos are awesome). I learned to drive on the same McCormick Farmall Cub when I was 5yrs old, haha. Farm Life, I guess.

Lapping some valves and watching some mustie......what a great day.

Ferro nickel stick welding would have worked for that crack much more forgiving. Preheat still required. Great video as always!!

Another thing to consider about the cracked block. I had a Farmall B that had the same problem. Was not cracked but rather had a hole rusted through. These tractors are 70/80 years old now and the internal corrosion over the years leaves the block thin. I fixed mine by making a 4/4 inch flat plate and centering over hole I drilled 8 1/4 inch holes in block and tapped them. I installed the plate which looked like an inspection plate. Lasted for at least 4 years then I sold tractor. I had tried to weld mine with brass before but never would hold. My 2 cents

Brian!! (I have never met him, but he is a friend and confidant of Mustie. You know he's good.) I met Mustie once. We are acquaintances. Really nice man.

Watching with interest as I drove one of these when I was about 5 or 6 on a farm.

Love the vids, keep em coming!

You could always practice fixing the crack once you have the old block out of the tractor. Be fun to try anyways, just a thought. Great video as always.

Always been partial to the nickel rods for Cast Iron, very manageable, but you need to peen the bead after laying it. skip beading an inch at a time also helps a bunch, keeps the heat from soaking up too much.

Watching you weld that block, made remember watching my Dad do the same thing on one of our tractors. He always would use nickel rod with a stick welder. Get me your address and I'll send you a tube of nickel rod ,which seem to work well for this application. Great video, you should have kept going I think you could have saved it. I really enjoy these video,s keep making them.

awesome video mustie. i purchased a super c with a cracked block pretty close to same position. i used a arc welder and nickle rod together with torch and air chisel. i pre heated welded an inch and then hammered the hell out of it with chisel. preheat and repeat. i got really lucky though. pain in the butt. keep them coming:)

amazing. The engine actually holds that tractor together. Never seen that before!

Oooh I used to drive one , with the mower deck! :) great little tractors! and a Hoot to drive! I don't think it was an "A" though started differently .. had a spring loaded foot pedal that would hit the ground lug on the starter to get it to start :) :)

we had a super A with a 4 inch hole the same place as yours cut a grove in the crack and J B weld lasted 15 years took 2 hours to fix

When you pointed the camera to the "problem". Yikes!! Made me shiver.

@georgelequin5070

4 жыл бұрын

Roger that T.C.

I grew up on a dairy farm my dad had an International 400, had a cracked block, my btother in law tried tig weldin it, it kept cracking also, before you even started preppin it to weld, i already knew you probably were not going to succeed, im a union pipefitter, and so was my bro n law, we worked in nuke plants and all over the country making exray pipe welds, those blocks are hard to repair, all their is to it, you do a great job on all yr videos though 👍👍👍

good day. In the 80's we bought a allis WC for $65. it had a patch bolted on, everytime we worked it alittle harder it would foul up a spark plug. The top of the block was probably cracked on inside like the A. anyways it was learning experience for all of us. Thanks

All your video's are great! Even keel always (no screamin' or breakin' stuff) very nice! It's neat how you think about things before jumpin' to the point of no return. Please keep 'em comin'...

@___PK__

2 жыл бұрын

The absence of swearing and screaming is always nice. Not exactly how we work here but ... definitely something to strive for lol.

At 32:34 I saw why it sounded pretty much the same without the muffler that was warm to the touch. Thanks for the video.

I was given a Ford 8n Tractor with a cracked block. They had brazed it and epoxied and still leaked. I bought a parts tractor for less than a block and just swapped engines. Mine was tired and this one seems much better.

@garyronan5568

7 жыл бұрын

There's A company that makes several kits to replace N series engines with other Ford engines including flat head and ohv V-8's. You can see some of the conversions at awesomehenry.com

Chrome sockets on impacts will help keep your local dentist in business.

@zarb88

4 жыл бұрын

I would worry more about a trip to the eye surgeon.

Gotta love these old machines... *has a 10" crack in the block* Tractor: "Ok I'm ready to go to work"

MAN that A cranked right up with ease. you've got a new subscriber my friend! thanks for all your videos. very enjoyable.

what a beautiful machine, hello from Yucca Valley.

when doing cast iron,you drill 1/4 " hole at each endnof the crackthen grind a bevel ans drill a 1/4" hole every inchheat up the area to be welded weld each inch after arc welding then tap witha chipping hammer until warm to the touchnif the casting is of good quality when done there will be no leaks,job done .

Every high school in Los Angeles had one of these tractors to maintain their athletic fields and tracks.

That is way too much snow on the ground there! Sweet looking red tractor.

I watched an older man fix about a four inch crack in a B Farmall block back around 1970. He drilled the holes at both ends and veed out the crack almost to the bottom to give it a lot of surface area. Then he built a small fire and built a bed of coals and put some bare lead battery terminals in a tin can and melted them down. He them put some sulphur in it for a flux and it brought all the impurities to the top and poured them off. He then took a piece of yardstick and paddled the clean lead into the crack. He let it cool to the right consistency and paddled it on. I raked hay with that tractor for several years after that.

Sperry welding in Capac, Michigan used to weld engine blocks by heating the whole block in a furnace. They welded a 9n Ford with the same type of crack for me in 1980. It worked, but ‘sweated’ very slightly. They are long gone now.

Excellent video here! Both entertaining and informative. Great job my friend.

Look at cold stiching the block hope this info is ok just watching some of your back dated vlogs big thumbs up from the UK

I don't know about welding engine blocks but I remember Dad welding a crack in the final drive on our Farmall Cub and he used nickel rod and just welded a section at a time and let it cool off good between times,it was still holding good when we sold it 24 years later.

Santa sez, I've seen your welding and you're getting a grinder for Christmas!

I actually enjoyed 'the living hell' out of this video!

We had one of these growing up for skidding 4 foot logs for firewood and using the PTO to run a cordwood saw.

Thanks for this series. Working on my own 52 Super-A. At the point where I need to order the rebuild kit. Like that lift you have there. Was that a hydraulic pump under the distributor? Didn't think the regular A model had hydraulics. Maybe not the original engine? Think the pulley was just pressed on. Mine didn't have a bolt in it, either. Have to order a new one as mine broke getting it off. Understand that it's pretty common for them to break when removing. Everything I've read on removing them is that they are bear to get off. I just had a jaw puller and it busted mined when removing it. Good effort on the welding. Thanks!

I really enjoy watching you work. I've learned a lot so far. Is there anything you can't do? Mechanically speaking of course.

My dad had a Super A that I grew up in NY concord grape country. Row crop tractors are so unique. Tippy, but unique.

ran really good for having a cracked block!

welding cast you have to drill a hole on each end of the crack or it will crack past the weld

280,000 views Mustie, well done lad!!

Name one thing you don't know how to fix it look like your knowledge is endless , I really enjoy watching I learn so much thanks.

mustie you get all the cool toys!! love the old tractors.

you have all kinds of neat project's laying around Thierry. that place is like a thinkers heaven keep it up I enjoy seeing your videos I just joined if your wondering..

A bit late now but the answer to a cracked cast steel block or transmission is the use of an arc welder and Duralloy 5283 low hydrogen high tensile welding rods. The idea is to run a single continuous bead along the entire length of the crack followed up by lateral one inch long "stitches" across the bead every inch or so to aid in holding the welded sections together under load. The procedure worked for me on a Belarus tractor with a cracked block and again when the same tractor literally snapped in half across the gearbox section. In that case the tractor was set up with jigs and clamps to pull the two halves together before welding. Afterwards the tractor returned to full service.

Wow, that brings back memories. I worked my rear end off every spring/summer along with all my male cousins running a tractor just like that. Those machines are fantastic, simple, reliable work horses for those that know what they're doing with one. Grandpa was a great teacher, so were my older cousins.

Too check the oil, open the bottom valve under the carb on the oil pan. Fill until oil comes out. If you open the top valve and oil appears it's over filled. No dipstick on any A' s I've ever worked on. I used to restore antique farm equipment and tractors in Colorado. Loved them old ones.

Am gonna get something to eat and enjoy this video, thanks mustie for making these videos

I was taught to always keep the push rods matched to the same rocker. Just make a simple piece of scrap lumber with appropriately sized holes numbered to match the engine.

Industrial boiler cement, or Durmetal. The Durmetal kit is a bit expensive for one time use, but its great stuff.

My father rebuilt a 1947 Farmall trike in our garage when I was a kid. We used it to pull hay wagons in the summer time..

I bought an old 1939 John Deere A 2 cylinder tractor years ago and it had froze and busted the head right around the drain plug for the water. I took it to my neighbor's and he welded it up with 7018 welding rods. He was going to use Nickel rods but was out of them at the time. I ran that tractor for several years like that.

@granskare

7 жыл бұрын

we had several 2 cyl jds - 46 a, 49a 48 d, and a 52m :)

what about cold stitching?

" I always wanted to work on one of these " ;)~

Our up north church had one of these for a mowing tractor. The engine had been replaced with one that was used on a combine. It operated OK but the oil fill was now in the wrong place making adding oil difficult.

I would skin back the suspect area and use an Magnaflux brand dye penetrant kit. Super effective on any flaws in cast iron.

I weld cast frequently with Arc. Preheat in a small forge then place it back in after the repair and turn the forge off to cool, or place the part in a sand bucket and cover. Have a pretty high success rate.

Back when I was 16~17 - 40 years ago, I fixed a cracked block on a Buick Gran Sport 350 from common sense I had very little knowledge of doing such a thing, but I thought if I drill a hole on each end just past the crack and it would find its end then I got some 1/4 inch plate steel and started to heat it up and shape it, when it fit as I wanted I drilled hole in the plate then the block and threaded it. I cut out some flexible high temp gasket and bolted down, cleaned out all metal and I filled it with water and it held so I drained it and filled it with "anti freeze". My friend was really happy because he couldn't afford a engine, but worked for years until he got in a major accident. The engine was fine, but a monster truck drove over the car doing 60mph and ripped the knuckle and all off the truck, both my friends looked in bad shape picking glass out of their faces. It's a good thing they ducked because it crushed the roof down and he wound up using the engine and transmission in another car from a junk yard.

such a shame...when people work on your engines and equipment...everyone needs to check for coolant-antifreeze in the block-radiator. Shame , shame shame...both parties guilty as charged.

@felinespirits

7 жыл бұрын

True, owner should have checked. But then again, what repair place would even THINK about putting straight water in an outdoor equipment engine...in New England? Seriously.

@LarsonFamilyFarm-LLC

7 жыл бұрын

Feline...that's what i was thinking...any good or hole-in-the-wall repair shop will add antifreeze without a thought....it's how everyone does things for the customers. It's almost expected...but then the owner should check too.

@MrPotatochips4

7 жыл бұрын

"what repair place would even THINK about putting straight water in an outdoor equipment engine...in New England? Seriously." I'm guessing that was Bongwater Motors in Dubietown.

@ty2010

5 жыл бұрын

Was likely drained and collected water, I just brought out a Mercedes I mothballed for 10 years that I drained completely when parked and dumped a quart of straight antifreeze into the block after. When I pulled it back out it only took 3/4 of a gallon water when it has over a 2 gallon capacity, was rusty sludgy stuff too. I drained originally because it's aluminum head and didn't want the antifreeze to break down to gel and water due to dielectric reaction. .

@ronbennett6396

5 жыл бұрын

Accuracy Marked Don't know if that farmer bought the tractor new, probably not, but I would think he'd have taken the time to try and learn everything he could about the tractor. Even see if he could find a manual, or at least talk to someone who'd know more than he does. Not using antifreeze is just plain laziness in not finding out everything possible about the tractor when he bought it.

Grind it out and stick weld it. I cant wait to catch up on this mini series

Thank you Musty1 this is exactly what I needed before I started working on my SuperA

Farmall. American classic. I love international harvester. I would clean it grind a v shape drill a small hole on each end of crack to stop spreading and weld it. The difference between you and all the trolls is your actual doing and not sitting at a computer. Your doing fine.

I've always heard that cast could only be brazed welded. But I had a cracked cast iron frying pan and I thought I'd try to weld it with a flux wire welder. I put it on a very low setting like 1-4 and it welded it without burning through. and it's still holding till this day. Wounder if you could do the same with a cast engine block or head.

That's a great looking tractor. I like it.

@muddysledge

5 жыл бұрын

It is. I enjoyed the cockpit view. Didn't realize it was offset like that. Interesting, and a wonderful beast of a tractor.

Old tractors are fun to work on. That's a real bummer there was no antifreeze.

How many times did you get caught on those studs sticking out of the back wheels?

Do you end up selling some of the stuff you get running? Like the generators and stuff like that? Would you say you generally make a enough to justify the time? Or is it just a hobby that you try to just breakeven on? Love the context been binge watching your videos

Assuming this is cast iron like a head, you can weld it with a nickel rod on low heat stopping every inch or two and tapping it with a hammer to stress relieve it. I have welded cast iron heads this way. Drilled the holes same way to prevent further cracking.

I wonder heating it with a rose bud type torch and brazing it with a oxy acetylene torch and brass brazing rod might have been the better method? welding with gas would keep the temperature of the block up too.

thank u 4 the video. we have a farmall A thats locked up, i was not sure on how 2 take the upper haft of the motor off. but i have an idea now :)

I stopped at 44:20 and what I would have done is ................... exactly what you did - haha. I have a feeling you and I both get enthused and a bit excited pulling the accessories off and especially when we open the covers and pull the head just to see all that was going on inside her! Am I wrong? Don't get mad, but when you were gonna tig that crack, I said to myself: O cmon really?, you aren't really gonna do that? You do better work than that. Until I realized you were just trying a little something for your own curiosity (which I might have done). Sooo glad it didn't work and you realized it without having put to much effort and time into the brazing just to realize after opening her up that there was a lot more cracking. At any rate, she will get a new body (time at the spa) and with you working your magic on her, a very well done new lease on life! BTW, thanks for being upfront and honest showing us your tig skills (or necessary practice needed - haha). You can still practice your tig skills on the old block, right? This is very interesting and a joy to watch! Guess you don't need me since Brian is helping, so I'll just sit over here in the corner and watch if you don't mind?!

@mustie1

7 жыл бұрын

you can still hold the light

This is a tough repair. I know of a cold process out of Buffalo, New York. It"s called metal lock service and I've seen it used on cast Iron, 25 ton press. We used it on our industrial air compressor heads. I know they could fix cracks like this with ease.