THANK YOU so much for watching! Let me know what you think in the comments - I read every single one :)

@brandoneich2412

Жыл бұрын

Maybe look into garolite/fr4 as an option for ASA. :)

@agatasoda

Жыл бұрын

No sir thank YOU, some of these tools are things I wouldn't have put much thought into.

@agatasoda

Жыл бұрын

For bed adhesion plus a few other tips have a look at this one it might help ;P kzread.info/dash/bejne/rKWdxrWGXbfeirg.html

@thedamnone

Жыл бұрын

The reason IPA stops working on your bed is you need different solvents for polar and non-polar contaminants. Alcohol will not remove sugars and some plastics, like PLA, when heated will degrade to sugars.

@joshstarrett9931

6 ай бұрын

With your cigar lighter torch..another useful tool that I use is a METAL chopstick. With both ends being rounded and one side a bit larger than the other, you can smooth out whatever part you heated up to fix (better than a butter knife) plus you can heat up either end to help weld parts together. Just an idea.

The 15-20 minute length is a sweet spot for me when the material is presented in a clean and cohesive fashion. I am subject to interruptions when I spend too long watching videos (wife, kids, cat, household emergencies, etc.) so being able to cherry pick videos based on length is a habit I have fallen into post-covid. Not to say I don't watch longer videos (Critical Role, anyone?) but I get to watch them in sections.

@impetus444

Күн бұрын

He speaks clearly enough that the video is very easy to watch at 2x playback speed :) lets see some 30-40 minute videos!

I store my in-use filaments in an IKEA SAMLA container with weather sealing added to the lip. It's filled with 4L of reusable silica in fine mesh bags. I use some printed PETG SAMLA clips to keep it sealed tight. Easily holds 8 spools, and could stuff another 4 or more if I really wanted to pack it full. The reusable silica can be dried out again in the oven. I think I saw the first iteration of this idea from CNC Kitchen.

A 3D pen is definitely useful. I was printing a planet carrier for a planetary gearbox, the planet carrier would require a lot of support to print it as is, so I split it up into the main body of the carrier and the pins. I printed the pins with a hexagon pin on the end and the carrier with a hexagonal hole. These fit together well and then I used a 3D printing pen to melt them together, making the join almost as strong if not as strong as the rest of the print. Another cool application I just thought of is to use on wear surfaces on your prints, when it wears down you could just use the pen to add another layer of material on top, sand it to the required shape and then use it again, without having to reprint the entire piece. Similarly you could just use it for repairing 3D prints.

this was definitely a very useful video. I’m a newbie to 3d printing and am interested in learning more about 3d printing. I love videos that talk about all the tools you need and where to get them. Thanks for adding links and also thanks for sharing other youtube channels that you follow. I definitely prefer shorter videos so that they are more frequent and not have to wait a long time for the next one. Thanks for sharing 😊

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

You got it and thanks for the feedback

I wipe down my head bed with isopropyl alcohol with a fresh paper towel before every print and about every two weeks I wash the build plate with good dish soap. These steps really help the curling off the build plate. Thanks for the vids

@joshstarrett9931

6 ай бұрын

I’ve been washing mine after every print. I’m NEW to this.

I've never tried Voxel PLA, I need to correct that! I laughed at the manual pump option. I only did that about twice before I went to the electric pump! Love the tool list, so many great ones and I need that low profile wrench, that thing is fabulous!

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Courtney! Honored as always that you're watching. I hope you'll join our Discord, I'm setting up a mastermind with myself, Stefan from CNC Kitchen, Uncle Jessie, Albert from 247, etc... you are of course welcome to join :)

No lie, that cigar torch hack to fix curling/lifting is incredible. That one is gonna save a lot of grief.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

So glad, I was worried people would give me a hard time for it lol

When you cut or drill metal you are left with a little material around the edge of the cut or hole, this material is a very thin layer of very sharp metal, that is what a burr is. The deburring tool runs along these cut or drilled edges and removes the unwanted metal, it helps with the finish of the part and it removes the razor sharp burrs, making it safer to handle. So it is a tool for removing unwanted material from edges, which is why it is also very good for 3D prints and cleaning up edges.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Nice. Thanks for the education!

As a new member of the 3D printing community (Ender 3 S1 Pro + Halot One Pro), you have my gratitude. I've been constantly searching for new ideas, tips, tricks, and everything in between; your videos have been the most helpful by a longshot.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad you like!

I just started the video and you have already provided me a great tool I would never have thought of. Curling prints- I never would have thought to use a lighter to heat and then flatten the area before the situation becomes a horrible outcome. Thank you!! Now, back to the video.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Glad to be of service. Subscribe, more coming soon

@5:00 isopropyl will dissolve the alcohol but it isn’t necessarily all picked up by your rag. a lot of it remains on the plate, requiring dish soap and water to remove. this is well documented.

Great video! I don't know if you were joking or not but just in case you weren't... Deburring tools are indeed designed to remove burrs. A burr is something that machinists like me encounter a lot. Whenever you cut a piece of metal, whether it's with a milling cutter or on a lathe or with a saw, it always leaves a raised rough edge called a burr. Burrs are problematic, because not only do they constitute a scratching or cutting hazard for your poor fingers, the fact that they are raised means that they can cause parts that have tight tolerances not to fit together properly. We use deburring tools in the shop a lot remove these birds so that parts fit properly and don't cut anyone. Also, two straight cuts meeting at a 90° angle can leave a very sharp corner. Even though it may not be a burr as such, we used to bring tools to break these hard edges. I hope that was informative! I get the impression and forgive me if I'm wrong, that before you got into 3D printing you didn't do much other making except probably wood working. Coming from an automotive and metal working place to watch making and then to 3D printing as part of a general Maker's journey, I find it interesting what tools people do and do not know are out there. I also find that the most interesting things come from people who have two intersecting maker specialties that may not necessarily always be combined. I am looking at getting into 3D printing in this video is extremely helpful please keep up the good work and keep making great content.

For one who's about to really get into multiple different types of handy craft stuff, this is very helpful. Trying to learn graphics design, 3d modeling, programming, soldering, and electric wiring, is gonna take a decent bit of time xD

It is good to see a channel is growing solidly 👍Keep on good work man

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Hoping and hoping to get to 100K!

Big thanks! I'm just about to enter the '3D printing world', and your very helpful videos are essential viewing for folks like me.

Absolutely try the different filaments for the 1st time. The channel has taught me a ton as a nub to 3D printing.

Nice list! Adding the wrench to my kit. The others I was already using. 2 tips I've come across related to these tools. Tip 1: Instead of the cigar lighter look up butane soldering irons. They usually have small heat gun attachment that can very precisely heat or clear strings. Along with the torch and metal tips you can use for shaping or cutting prints. Berkling BSG-568 is a quality unit, but there are other cheaper ones. Tip 2: There are other blades for your deburring tool! Noga is a high quality brand that has so many attachments it will make your head spin. One I want to feature is the S150 blade that will drop into your current tool. It is designed for plastics and has a much finer point that the typical S10 style, which is great for getting into tight spaces on your 3d prints. Nice job explaining the uses of each item featured!

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Wow great tips (no pun intended) THANK YOU

I'm new to the 3D printing world and just got a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. I made a few prints in PC which was no problem at all on the PEI build plate. Made sure it was dry then it ran just fine. :) I really like the texture of PC, very smooth.

I see the 3D pens are basically mini mig-welders. Had my main printers PSU's explode while I was making custom ductwork for a clients PC build on a tight timeline - redesigned the parts to fit on a smaller unit (chopping each piece into sections with lips / pins and chamfers all around...) super glue to locate parts, 3D pen to fill the chamfers, sand flat. Seamless perfection with not a whole lot of extra work. Given that the seams are also "100% infill", yay stronk, you can use a higher temp than normal printing without worrying about stringing. That and dragging the hot tip across the printed surface while depositing new stuff allows the new material to both fully fuse, and key in with the base material.

"I dont even know what a burr is." ...Then proceeds do define it perfectly spot on, LOL! Love the channel, new subscriber. A tip when ordering rotary burr knife blades: For 3D printed parts, be sure to order blades designed to use on aluminum and soft metals, NOT the ones for hard steel. They have different cutting angles, and the one for steel will chatter as you pull it along a part edge, leaving a worse edge than you started with. Also be aware that the blades made for soft materials are ground at different angles on each side and are designed to cut in one direction. If you cut along an edge, and then cut backwards going the opposite direction, it will chatter and make a saw-blade-like edge on the part. These can be found in right and left direction. The blades made for hard steel have the cutting edge ground equally on both sides of the blade and work in both directions. Generally, a right handed blade is designed to draw inward (right to left direction)or toward yourself with your right hand, which gives the most stable control and smoothest cut. Vice-versa for a left hand blade in your left hand. These tools work incredibly well for de-burring or breaking the sharp edge of holes. With a right handed blade, whip it around the hole edge in a clockwise direction, and vice-versa for a left hand blade. In the machinist world, we call this tool a burr whip, and used correctly and with some practice can create a very fine, precise edge bevel or hole chamfer that looks as clean as if it were machined that way.

A "scrap" soldering iron for setting inserts, smoothing 3D pen repairs and reworking holes etc. really comes in clutch.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Nice idea!

I don't know if you will see this, but if you do, I would like to offer my thanks for your videos. I'm an old dog trying to learn a new trick, and I'm brand new to 3D printing. Your videos have been extremely helpful to my learning process. I appreciate your time and energy in bringing this to us. In answer to your question, I am a fan of longer videos as long as they aren't full of fluff. Thank you!

@thenextlayer

19 күн бұрын

Thanks for taking the time!

I like the way you think. Cigar lighters are a great option for applying focused heat. :)

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Yes they are!

Excellent tips on tools to get. Not sure if you mentioned it on the Microfiber cloth part, but they're pretty fairly cheap at most hardware stores (Harbor Freight takes the W on this one.) Something that I'm looking for, as I'm in a basement apartment with pretty bad sound insulation, is a 3D printer case, shelf, box, display, Something to let me put it in, close the door, and still be able to monitor it without worrying if there's enough room in there, or vibrations causing the ripple effect on the print. It can also potentially help with the smell of PETG that, while "safe", isn't pleasant to have your apartment smell like. I can see you've got one in the background, but you haven't yet gone over how well it works and how you made it/got it.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

I have a video coming about this, probably at the end of the month or early January, stay tuned you’re gonna love it and make sure you’re subscribed

Files and sandpaper are must-haves for me as well.

Paper towels are literally biodegradable and come from renewable sources (trees). +1 on microfiber towels though.

I also use a 3d pen to strengthen the glued parts together when there is enough space. What I also recommend is a pyrog (I don't relly know its name in english) I use it to smooth and strengthen printed models. For example a cilynder base and a tube printed together, the tube will break too easily to hold a model, but after some heat treatment with this thing, and the base is strengthened with a 3d pen, its really sturdy.

Awesome Video! I wish I had this video when we started our print farm.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! And thank you so much for making this video possible!

I have great luck in easily keeping my filament dry. I bought a clear air-tight storage box and keep a rechargeable color changing silica dryer (the type you hang in a closet) in there. Now I keep open spools in the box, and the humidity stays around 27%-35%. A spool that's been on the printer for days dries quickly when I swap it for one in the box. It holds full size, mini, and sample spools (12 spools is my record). Plus, with no bags, it's easier to see what's available.

Yes. please do the nylon and hard material new time problem solving. Great videos. Thank you

Thank you for this video. the 15-20 minutes are a lot easier for me to get through but I would watch longer as long as you have the chapters still so nicely set. =]

@thenextlayer

8 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

KZread definitely rewards frequency over video length however watch hours are also important. It’s KZread so you don’t have to have a super polished video with tons of editing and multiple takes to get it right. Don’t be afraid to go raw so to speak.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

I’m too much of a perfectionist!

Regarding the space bags and electric pump- I have a small hand vacuum that I 3D printed an adapter for (obviously) that mates with the valve on the bags, all the air's gone in a couple seconds!

I'm getting ready to purchase my first 3d printer. Your videos are really helping me make sure I'm ready.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Great to hear! Did you see my video on why everyone needs a 3D printer? Came out a week or so ago :)

@ChrisPurdie

Жыл бұрын

@@thenextlayer Yes I have. I've been diving into your videos all day between tasks at work.

Nice Video 👍🏻 I haven’t watched your second video on that topic but for this video i definitely miss a soldering iron, clamps in different sizes and a rotary multitool (dremel). Not a tool but as far as hardware goes, all kinds of screws and especially heat inserts are missing. And since you said you don’t know what a burr is: when you are milling through open edges it can create really thin razorsharp blade on the edge. To get rid of it and make the part safe to touch you cut that „blade“ with a deburring tool.

Happy to see and listen to ypur videos' Great sense of humor. About the length, don't short them too much, also too long cause people to skip the last part. I guess that for 10-15min is a good lenght. Greetings from the Galilee

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for the inPut

A "burr" is commonly present in injection plastic pieces where there is a union in between the 2 negative molds, when releasing the final product, the seam where there was the union of the 2 molds leave a line, (the plastic wants to get out in the weakest point) it tends to be this union, and if plastic indeed get out, it leaves a "burr".

I used microfiber cloths instead of paper towel for a long time but ended up finding that it didn't absorb contaminants nearly as well. Switching to paper towel was a game changer. Hardly ever have to wash the build plate with dish soap anymore.

I was just about to order a couple spools, I’ll give voxel a try 😊

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Nice! You’ll enjoy it. It’s become my go to if I just need a print to not give me issues, like for an Etsy order

A food dehydrator is a good way to dry your filament and generally a lot more useful and cheaper than buying an actual filament dryer.

Great tips on tools. I have sliced my pinky open with a debur too though, got the scar to prove it. So please all be careful it's still a blade.

I find that normal hair spray helps extremely well with bed adhesion, of course the bed gets all tacky and dirty, but your prints will never separate from the bed

I use brake clean to clean my bed plate. It works on my pei and factory ender mat just a tiny bit on a towel but I like the microfiber towel. I'll try that.

A burr is an unwanted bump left over from the manufacturing process.

99% isn’t necessarily better than 70% iso. It depends on the situation, but having some water in the mix improves a fair amount of processes

i Have had success printing Nylon and NinjaTek materials with Prusa MK4 or 3S+ with satin plate and their default settings

Use Bambu build plate glue stick. It creates a thin barrier between the part and build plate. It makes the part stick and also the part comes off the plate easily. It cleans off with water. Bambu printers come with it.

Silica gel packages, I weigh them and write it on the package once it has been in the dryer for a few hours. You can easily measure how much water is in them. (need a sensitive electronic scale, I have one up to 200 g sensitive to 0.01 g)

I send my glass plates through my dishwasher and they work great. I still use glue stick on them because otherwise I can’t get anything to release lol.

@joshstarrett9931

6 ай бұрын

I didn’t know you could do that!!! Thanks, I’ll try it next time

I have a glass print bed. I use cheap hair spray for adhesion. Wipe it down with alcohol one a week. Once a month it gets wiped with acetone. granted, I pretty much only print in PLA, so take it with a grain of salt. I also bought a cheap food dehydrator, modified the trays so I can fit two spools plus one regular try to put silica packs (even the non-reusable ones) and put it on low for 9 hours. everything gets dried and I can reuse the packs as well.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

PLA will stick to anything. Try using ASA lol.

Great video! Waiting for the next one.

I also use the 3D Pen to fix supports that have broken off so that my print doesn't fail later on.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Ooooh smart!!

Good information thanks!

יש לי המון לילמוד בתחום ואני אצפה בסירטונים קצרים או ארוכים , העיקר שיהיה מעניין ומעשיר את הבנתי בתחום :) תודה עבור השיתוף :) (: THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL

Using a textured pei works so good you don't ever need to clean the bed nor need to heat the corners, I've done hundreds of prints without even looking

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

I guess you’re just better at not getting your grubby hands all over it than I am, because even those I have to clean periodically

cool and very unexpected list :) can you share the voron progress ?

People make 3d printing more expensive and troublesome that it needs to be. You're the second video I watched tonight exclaiming the usefulness of isopropyl and microfiber rags. I have two Ender3s. I use the cheap kindergarten glue sticks from Amazon. When the build up gets crappy, I run the build plates under warm tap water and use a sponge to remove the glue. Then I put down a new layer of glue and go. If it doesn't stick, I probably need to relevel my bed. As to hygrometers. I keep a one-room dehumidifier next to my print station and run it year around with a setting of 50%. I've never had a filament, no matter how old, to give any problems. And by the way, they sit out unwrapped. But-- Is there an unusually high humidity in Israel?

Most pharmacies (at least in the US) carry 90%/91% alcohol, it should work just fine for bed cleaning. The 99% and 100% alcohols will evaporate so quickly that it becomes a challenge to accomplish the CLEANING. Even 91% evaporates pretty quick. For the ball end Allen Keys, I strongly suggest these 4 brands: Allen, Bondhus, Wera, PB Swiss.

My opinion: 15 to 20 minutes sound good... I like the way you talk and describe like in this video. Keep up the good work and I hope your channel keep growing 👍

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Appreciate your kind words and input

Hey man love your videos keep up the good work

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! The best is yet to come :)

Those ball head allen keys are great until you try to use the ball end to finish tightening bolts then you start stripping metal. If you do end up using ball end wrenches do not tighten all the way with the ball end, ball end should do 90% of work getting bolt in with final torque coming from flat end to make sure you dont strip bolts. I ran a bicycle shop and hate ball end allen wrenches with a passion because my techs never cared how to use them

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Great advice, thanks for sharing!

I think shorter videos more often will also help with viewer retention as well. +1 vote for shorter more frequent videos

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Awesome, thanks. I'll do that, then

I've had great success using vinegar instead of isopropyl alcohol for degreasing the buildplate. Even better than alcohol in fact. This was recommended to me by my 3D printing friend.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Oh wow that's surprising. But...the smell!

@MrTypowy1

Жыл бұрын

@@thenextlayer IPA isn't exactly pleasant too 😆 If someone doesn't care for the smell or just in a pinch - it's worth a try. I mostly use spirit vinegar but even rice vinegar works, it's fancier and less aromatic ;)

I just store my filament in a big box with a big silica gel container inside. When it saturates i just put it in microwave in a galss bowl to refresh it. Works for my PETG in Netanya.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, space is tough for me here, but I need to find a better solution for sure

You should check out the Airlock bags that printed solid sells, they are even better than the eibos ones IMO! Eibos ones are still better than most cheapo ones, but I had a few not hold their seal. Haven't had that issue with the airlock bags and they are super thick material, also will work with your little electric pump.

To clean my bed, especially to remove built up glue stick, I use mostly glass cleaner and a lint free cloth. As for filament storage and drying, I store my filament in an air tight box and have a tub of Damp Rid in that box. For drying the filament, if you don't want to shell out for a dedicated filament dryer, you can get one of those cheap round dehydrators and use it instead. Benefit of the dehydrator is that most can be run longer at a lower temperature.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Interesting. I wonder if it harms PEI tho?

@matthewjbauer1990

Жыл бұрын

@@thenextlayer I haven't had any issues with my PEI flex bed.

A bur is usually a sliver of metal around the edge

Hi thanks for your great videos and tips and tricks for 3D printing i like your printer enclosure very much did you build it yourself or is it avalable to buy?

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Custom made but I have a video coming out all about it very soon

@paulcallesen8903

Жыл бұрын

@@thenextlayer Nice 😃

Love your videos, one thing I was curious about as I haven't seen it anywhere. That hexagon grid system on your wall, what is that called and how do I get it?

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Honeycomb Storage Wall... enjoy :) I might do a video about it

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Check this out, I just made a new subreddit so we can all discuss: www.reddit.com/r/honeycombwall/

I use simple green to clean things. Its environmentally friendly smells better and much cheaper . $10 per gallon vs $40 for 99% ipa

i actually like the 10-20 min videos.

The amount of torching my gridfinity caliper holder has also been subjected to...

you would be surpised how well polycarbonate and nylon sticks to the printing bed if printing bed is polycarbonate (yep, a thin sheet from Amazon) or nylon clamped to the bed all around, or in absence you print with 20mm brim around and clamp down the brim after the first or second layer, before it lifts up, using some thin metal long plates and paper clips.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Oh damn that’s pretty smart. I didn’t think about just getting a piece of poly carbonate. Does it heat up as much as you need?

Printing surface for nylon. First use a borosilcate glass bed and heat it to 100C, print within an enclosure, I get my enclosure up to 40C (you can use the bed to do this but I have an additional chamber heater as well. 250C nozzle. Use glue stick on the glass, I use six layers (no really). Print slowly with no part cooling fan. I print Nylon-CF, but also strimmer cord that works well (I like the colours). I tend to print with a 0.6 nozzle because of the nature of the parts I'm printing, the printing times, because I'm printing slowly, and because though you can print PA-CF through a 0.4 nozzle 0.6 is better (to prevent clogging, also use a toughened steel nozzle, CF is abrasive to brass, though I do use a ruby brass nozzle with a S/S insert instead of the PTFE tube). My 3D printer is a Qidi X-Plus which is doing me good service.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Great tips, thank you!

I prefer to use a ratchet undoing my nozzles. That way I can make sure I'm not tightening it by accident, as I always get confused when it's upside down. To insert a new nozzle, I use an Olsen tool that has a set torque limit and makes sure you don't overtighten.

Great channel. Subscribed

For not knowing what a "burr" is you sure defined it really well 😂

Yes please try polycarbonate and nylon that kinda materials

hey can you provide a link to the white cabinet that you have the prusa in at the beginning of the video?

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

It’s custom. Follow and subscribe to notifications. Video coming out about it next month

I would love to see hou try Nylon or ASA. I bought 2 rolls myself, bit haven’t tryed it.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

I print a ton of ASA

7:09: YES!

🤞I haven't had to dry out any of my hygroscopic filaments yet. I put them straigt into IKEA based dryboxes as soon as I take them out of their bag, and haven't had any problems yet. (reusable dessicant and air tight seals). At 25NIS/8USD per box, maybe 5nis/1USD in gasket material, the rest is printed. It's a pretty good solution for the money.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Nice :)

Fully support breaking up videos. It helps you and makes the content more digestible

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

You got it

4:09 - Another thing is to maybe wipe the bed when it's cool, so some of the alcohol doesn't evaporate through the high heat.

70% ipa is better for cleaning. It doesn't evaporate as quickly giving you more working time before you need to rewet your rag. Overall you'll clean your mess faster and with less ipa.

You can use a dehydrator as a cheap heater for your filament. It actually works/

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

True, true

The whole vacuum bag and air tight storage container thing is overkill, unless you're planning on storing your filament longterm. Dehydrate the roll, put it in a large zip-loc with a container of silica beads, suck the air out from an open corner and then zip it shut. As long as the silica beads go in dry, it doesn't matter if there's vacuum - there's so little air flow that the beads will keep the roll dry until your next use. Much easier and less costly.

@thenextlayer

11 ай бұрын

Good point

good tips

great video!

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

great video keep it up 👍👍

When you started talking about alcohol and you made that comment about using it on your bed. I had temporarily forgotten that this video was about 3D printers... I was really really confused.

Us price for Voxel pla is $16.99/kg. In Canada, at Amazon, Voxel pla sells for $25.99/kg. So at 15% exchange rate on the Canadian dollar it should be $19.54/kg... not $25.99. As soon as something comes across the border into Canada, companies seem to think that they have been given freedom to gouge rights!

I found IPA in spray cans as disinfectant (with added odor). What suppliers can you recommend in Israel? Also, I think 70% is good enough for cleaning for FDM.

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

I ordered from some industrial place, they sent me like 5 liters... need a better suppliers. Spray cans is a good idea

With the dish soap bit, it’s all sodium lauryl sulfate. But don’t use anything with glycerol in it.

what is the hecagon weall behind you i need that :)

@thenextlayer

4 ай бұрын

I did a whole video about it

@francimor_clips

4 ай бұрын

oh i found it thx

Free Shipping in the USA for orders with 3 spools or more!

The deburring tool may have a rounded point, but you can still cut yourself pretty badly if you aren’t careful. Just FYI 👍

What kind oft pegboard is that in the background? Can you make a video about it?

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

It’s honeycomb storage wall and yes I can do a video about it thanks for the request

@thenextlayer

Жыл бұрын

Check this out, I just made a new subreddit so we can all discuss: www.reddit.com/r/honeycombwall/

I found the bags for vacuum storage of filament were not that sturdy and ended up with holes in them from pushing them into places they were not meant to go. In the end, I bought a food vacuum sealing machine and use rolls of heavy-duty vacuum bags. They cut to size and are so cheap they are disposable. As the bags are made for cooking in boiling water, they are really strong. The only problem I have found is my wife nicking the machine to seal food in and leaving me out of rolls of bag plastic.😖😖😖