Love that you filmed all of this. I can’t say I am going to go as far as you but I just picked my 23 10R up on the 4th of January 2024 already finished the TST tail light and fender elimination. Changed out the wind screen and added the superbike lifters from woodcraft. Will probably be out riding tomorrow to try and get more break in miles, still looking at flash options but probably going with a Yoshimura AT2 3/4 system for the exhaust and a sprint filter up top.

@NINJAof1

6 ай бұрын

Thanks for the comment and congrats on your new ZX10R. Looking forward to see what you do.

My new '23 ZX10R was delivered to my driveway just 3 weeks ago. Pulled the ECU out today to send it to 2 Wheel DynoWorks to get flashed. Watching your video was a big help, thank you! Keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤🏍 Randy

@NINJAof1

6 ай бұрын

Glad to see the series helped you. I'm currently preparing a detailed instruction sheet to accompany the video series. You'll be able to download an Excel or PDF listing step-by-step instructions, a link taking you to the video and exact time within the series, part name/number/manufacturer/vendor, and price. There will be more videos after this including my H2, ZX14, and of course, the ZX10. Thanks for the comment and subscription. Be sure to like and share.

@NHlocal

6 ай бұрын

@@NINJAof1 😎👊

👍

What are those two hoses you connected to the tank at 2:52 ? Can I plug either one, if so which one?

@NINJAof1

Жыл бұрын

The hose on the left is the fuel overflow line. You definitely don't want to cap this off either. This hose allows excess fuel to flow down and under the engine as it expands in the tank due to heat (Sun). One thing to check for that I forgot to mention is the overflow hose routing from top to bottom; make sure nothing is pinching the line. I noticed that my overflow line was pinched near the radiator hose on the bottom left side of the engine. It was like this from the factory. Good question. Hope that helps. The hose on the right is the fuel tank breather hose allowing excess fumes to pass through the emission canister located under the right side dash cowl. Once I removed the canister, the end of the hose was routed just above the radiator next to the radiator filler cap. This allows excess fumes to escape far enough away from the bike so that you don't smell fuel while at a stop. Do not cap either of these hoses. Hope that helps. Thanks for the questions.

Did you list this adapter in the initial mods list?

@NINJAof1

Жыл бұрын

I'm not sure what you're asking. Please specify the video and time mark or further explain. Thank you

@joras18

Жыл бұрын

The OBD connector you mentioned at 11:36. You said you had to purchase it because it did not come with the scanner

@NINJAof1

Жыл бұрын

@Jose Rojas jr. Yes, I do mention this adapter in the parts list and this is also mentioned in the video link below: 'm.kzread.info/dash/bejne/pZmt1LBwfZWcd6g.html&pp=iAQB At time mark 12:47 The OBDII (2) Diagnostic Scanner and ZX10R adapter (red plug) was all purchased from Moore Mafia. The parts list is provided within the same video at the end of the previous chapter (9:32). Hope that answers your question.

How did you get seat latch screws out? I broke 1 and can't get it to budge with extractor.

@NINJAof1

6 ай бұрын

The screws I took off for the passenger seat were the passenger seat locking mechanism bracket screws (that's what I call it in the video). I used a large Phillips head screwdriver bit-kit. This way I had a choice of bits that would properly fit in the screw head. There's a lot of locktight on those screws, for good reason. Once I knew I had a properly fitting bit, I just put all my weight down and turned. Taking the locking seat mechanism off allowed me to remove the small angle bracket used to secure the ECU. I hope you're not talking about the two small hex bolts used as a mounting point for the sliding bracket. This is the bracket that secures the rider seat. Let me know which you're talking about. Thank you

@johnklein6322

6 ай бұрын

@NINJAof1 passenger seat locking mechanism. 1 snapped and extractor can't get it even with heat. Guess I'll have to take to machine shop unless you have a suggestion. I'd rather finish myself, everything else is done. Other screw still in there, was able to twist mechanism to get to bracket holding ecu

@NINJAof1

6 ай бұрын

@@johnklein6322 There's a lot of locktight on those screws. I believe it is blue. Heating, Small drill in the center of the screw and extractor is the preferred way. Worse case scenario, you may have to drill out the remainder of the screw and use a heli-coil kit. You want to be able to replace with the same size screw because it has to go through the locking mechanism bracket. Sounds like going to a machine shop is a good start. Let me know what you did. Hope that helps.

@NINJAof1

26 күн бұрын

@johnklein6322, how were you able to get those two screws out for the passenger seat locking mechanism bracket? Another person experienced the same thing you did and asked me. Your response will be helpful. Thank you

@johnklein6322

26 күн бұрын

@@NINJAof1 I had to drill out and re tap.