CMP member since 2002. Avid M1 Carbine collector. Also like Winchester M1 Garands. My grandmother assembled them at the Winchester factory in New Haven, CT and later met my grandfather there prior to being drafted into WWII. These videos are dedicated to them, thanks Gram and Poppy.
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I don't know if anyone mentioned this before, but if you want to get the pouch to fit better and to put the mags in, turn the mags around. If you noticed the way there in one side is rounded and the other is squared. It will make the pouch a bit lose to get them in. I don't know if anyone mentioned it but I thought I would.
Great idea for anyone. Thanks for sharing it!!!
This is the best video of all on the history of the M1 cleaning kits on KZread. If you pay attention, you'll be able to purchase authentic new old USGI issue gear and have the cleaning kit of your chosen time period.
Thanks for the high praise!
That castle nut set screw is the biggest pain the ass to get back on. I tried tightening it back on with an Allen wrench, but it just wanted to keep cross-threading on me and the SOB just broke on me. Do I really need that screw if I'm just using the rifle for recreational shooting?
The screwdriver tip seems to be best as you can feel the resistance better than an allen wrench in my opinion. When threading screws back in I will align the best I can and turn counterclockwise to hear/feel a click and the screw will fall in a little bit which tells me the threads are aligned before tightening. Great question and hope the info helps.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks. I appreciate the reply. I'll just leave it as it is without the set screw. I really don't feel like paying $3 for a part that probably didn't cost them 3 cents to make.
If you're not interested in accuracy then it may be fine but I wouldn't trust it not having one. $3 is not worth being injured.
I have my late father's. All matching and pretty scratched up from many miles banging around in the saddlebag of his old Gold Wing. He was a desert rat and took the firepower he was trained with from his service days as his companion. But, I have it and it's got a great classic feel and shoots well with a new Wolff recoil spring.
Cool.
Thank you 4 the video.
You bet! Take care.
Thanks ! I also got stuck 😂
I have many times too :)
Wow you are a wealth of information. Thanks. Working through a few issues on a nice underwood I picked up
Great to hear! Thank you!
hey i love your vids! quick question Norwich, my safety's' on, bolt cocked, but i can not unscrew the bolt head, even when i depress it, ive watched both your bids. Any help would be greatly appreciated! thank you
Does it move and fire in a rifle?
@@norwich93CMP The rifle fires. I ended up getting it unscredwed and dissasbled using an uncoventinal method, however now the saftey will no longer enegae. rifle still works, but unless i use a mallet to flick the sfatey on, i can not move it
Also , the second part. The bolt should close into full battery on. Go gauge. Not close on a No Go gauge. When it wouldn’t close on the NoGo, there seemed to be a problem? I’m confused. Your videos are very helpful! If you could give Some clarification about this one discrepancy.
I believe I corrected it in the text below the video, check there. It should close on the GO, and not close on the NO-GO and FIELD.
Thank you! I have done this multiple times, and still have to come back and watch this video every time I take one apart.
I do the same thing for working on cars!
Excellent demonstration®
Many thanks!
nice one!
Thanks!
You helped me tremendously. Just getting the bolt out and back in without disassembling/reassembling the rifle was driving me nuts (and made a mess of cuts and scrapes on my fingers and knuckles)! Many sincere thanks. Just an aside to all my male counterparts out there: when will we ever learn to go to KZread first?????
Glad it helped you out!
Great information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Bloody legend
Nice!!!
Just got my first garand! This is the video I was looking for! I want my m1 to be complete and you went above and beyond for the viewers! I appreciate this!
Great to hear that!!!
@@norwich93CMPI second that. I haven’t received mine yet but it is ordered. I can’t wait to get my hands on it, but in the meantime I’m looking for a cleaning kit and now I know which one to look for! I also need to get me a proper sling. It’s a SA 1943, not sure if I need a leather or a webbing sling. Thanks for the awesome video!
I just wanted to make sure those grooves at the end of the muzzle were as they were when I took off the brake in the first place so I didn't do anything stupid like try and hammer the brake back in when I was done cleaning. Thank you
You're welcome
Класс Бро спасибо видео с отстрелом будет за ранее спасибо 😊😊😊😊.
Thank you👍
Welcome 👍
Noice! Ain’t these lil carbines cool?!
5.5 pounds with lots of pews!!!
And where can I get the sling and oiler tube? PLEASE HELP!!! Thank you 👍
At gun shows and online auctions, get USGI not reproductions!
Brother, your Garand videos are the best. Thanks for posting them.
Excellent and thanks!!!!
Tried looking for that tool can’t find it anywhere
Can someone tell me the actually name of the tools used for castle nut?
"Wrench - 779493 Rifle M14"
I'm throwing this out there for guys as unlucky as I, my extractor was impossible to install without tools, grap a pair of vise grips, a small pair, and ensure that you are hooked on the collar, not the bolt and apply light pressure to the collar and slip the extractor on, I could not do this with just my hands. Thanks for the video man!
Your welcome! (I don't recommend vise grips :) )
Man, I wish my front sight was that easy to install. I've been hammering at it for awhile and it just does not want to move. I'm going to have to use a bigger hammer tomorrow. It was a real nightmare to get off too, even after soaking for 2 days with penetrating oil.
I just bought a 1943 quality hardware carbine and when I try to chamber a round, the round falls all the way out of the barrel. Any idea as to why that is??
WOW! Probably reamed out for a different caliber, which obviously is larger.
Should the Carbine's Recoil Plate screw be screwed down tight with no wobble or movement on the Recoil Plate? Or Should it be loose?
Good question. Just prior when I reassemble I ensure the screw is about half way out of the recess. Once the action is the stock and hand guard in I will first tighten the barrel band then tighten the recoil screw last. If it is stiff when putting the action in it might split or chip the wood around the tang of the recoil plate.
@@norwich93CMP I took the action off, then unscrewed the Recoil Plate screw until the head of the screw stuck out. I then placed the whole action back onto the stock (with the Hand Guard also in place) then tightened the Barrel Band (not super tight, more like finger tight snug just enough no wobble). Lastly, I screwed down the Recoil Plate screw until it was flush with the Plate. Afterwards I wanted to check if there was any play on the Recoil Plate, so I took the whole action out again and there was some play on the Recoil Plate but i didn't tighten it anymore and left it as is. Is that Okay?
Your short video provided all the answers I had been searching for, for an hour and half previously. Very concise and informative. Much appreciated.
Very nice compliment, thank you.
I’m new to the M1 garand community and learning all I can about disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, and reassembly. Great video, and thank you for taking the time to share.
Awesome to hear it!!!!
Nicely done. Thank you.
Thank you too!
Great video Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Hey quick question, My grandpa gave us one of these rifles before passing away , the bolt is damaged looks like some body tried to weldit and they didn a realy Bad job and it won't fire the round , do You think thsts the reason why I won't shoot ? I keep on trying and it finally detonated the round but it took like 6-or 7 trys , I was thinking to order the bolt to replaced and see if that would help
When you get the better bolt have it headspaced before shooting!!!!
This video was so helpful. Before I went to the video, I spent probably a few hours trying to get the damn slide on the think
Glad it gave you a shortcut to use in the future.
I refer to this video often. Again, thanks so much!!!
Wow, thanks.
Thank you! I replaced my hammer spring, recoil spring and clip latch spring, your videos were very helpful!
Great to hear!
Thanks for this video, I installed a new spring and it worked like a champ!
Glad it helped
That answered my question. Thanks!
Glad to help!
Is it possible to replace the Mini-14's rear sight with the Garand's one (T105E1)?
I doubt it.
A WORD OF CAUTION - if the rear handguard band is glued in place real tight with old linseed oil, when you re-assemble the handguard onto the rifle, you will bend the handguard and it can snap along the grain. Take a guess how I know that.
I DO NOT BELIEVE IT. THERE IS FINALLY SOMEONE ELSE BESIDES ME WHO KNOWS HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR HANDGUARD ON A GARAND. FINALLY. FINALLY, THERE IS ONE OTHER PERSON ON PLANET EARTH WHO DOESN'T PRY IT OFF WITH TWO SCREWDRIVERS. I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR THIS MOMENT FOR LITERALLY DECADES. IS THIS REALLY HAPPENING? SOMEONE PINCH ME, I AM CLEARLY DREAMING.
LOL!
Thank you so helpful 😊
I had one blow out. Had to rethread the chamber as well as replace the bolt.
There is a slot on the side of the striker to put the rim of a cartridge case in there so you can pull the striker back. No need of using the side of a workbench.
Do you know if there is a torque spec on the gas piston lock nut? I can't find anything in the book other than "be sure to lightly stake the nut after its seated." Upon inspection I found mine to be loose.
Hey besides greasing the peripheral rub areas, do u use any oil on the firing pin or other parts of the bolt. I ad 0ne drop to the rear of the pin...
I never oil the firing pin. Just a coating to the extractor leg and light coat to the extractor spring. The firing pin is designed to float in the bolt. If oil it then deposits will build up after a while and could prevent the firing pin from moving freely.
I made my own gas piston wrench out of an old piston casstellated nut.
That will work well, smart idea!
I just got a ‘43-‘44 Saginaw M1 Carbine. On the large flat part next to the piston, have you ever seen people/soldiers etch their SSN on it? I googled and came up with nothing.
No I have not.
Very helpful!
Thank you!
In 1981, I purchased an IJ M1 carbine new (AA prefix S/N) It came with an oil finished walnut stock, WITH the cutout for the select-fire lever.
i have a question. What is the functional difference between a round bolt and a flat one?
None accept being heavier it feeds a little bit better and is a must for M2. It actually developed from skipping the milling process to speed up production.
thank you 😄@@norwich93CMP