Пікірлер

• 
  @tannerl56074 күн бұрын

  Cool to see your still responding to comments after all this time! Are the flange bolts TTY? Guess not 😅

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom4 күн бұрын

  I try to keep on top of them! Don't think so, I imagine I would have replaced them if they were

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  @BEFORETHEMHYPEBEASTS4 күн бұрын

  I got stuck on a anti shudder valve bottom torx screw. Its a torture. I cant find a way how to unscrew her next to all the hoses around throttle body.

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom4 күн бұрын

  It sucks, the clearance is really tight and it's very awkward!

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  @BEFORETHEMHYPEBEASTS4 күн бұрын

  any tool that you would recommend to go around this issue? I use ratchet wrench and not sure if a straight tool wouldnt be better? I couldnt tell what you’re using here. Your video has been my go to. thanks for that:)

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom4 күн бұрын

  I think I broke it loose with 1/4" ratchet, then unscrewed it by hand. Will be just finding the right combination of extensions, wobbles and bits

• 
  @BEFORETHEMHYPEBEASTSКүн бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom thanks and any idea why the egr hose gaskets come with a four clamps? I bought incorrect one which was flat but everywhere I look to shop for they have clamps and I cant imagine how that would fit there. The one you shown in the video doesnt have those clamps.

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  @user-or7qd1rm6g6 күн бұрын

  Does any fluid need to be drained while performing this job

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom5 күн бұрын

  Drain the coolant, oil will be fine to leave in but I would change it after new head is in place.

• 
  @thepandorica17 күн бұрын

  The link for the injector seal kit is gone, angbody have a link?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom5 күн бұрын

  It was a generic kit from eBay, there's quite a few on there, should be quite easy to source

• 
  @thepandorica17 күн бұрын

  Great video. Thank you!

• 
  @leonst846811 күн бұрын

  When is it advisable to change them?

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  @ToolTimeWithTom11 күн бұрын

  I couldn't find a solid answer, the intervals are all over the place depending on the year, engine code and which day it currently is. I've opted for 5 years or 80k miles but don't count that as a recommendation.

• 
  @mindthegap119811 күн бұрын

  Do you have a video of all the vac pipes please mine are I a muddle and there is 1 to the injector side I don't know where it is supposed to go/feed😢

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  @ToolTimeWithTom11 күн бұрын

  I don't have a video but if you're standing in front of the engine, from bulkhead, towards you, on top of the cam cover, it should go, green dash, white dash, no dashes on the vac lines

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  @007tomcampbell613 күн бұрын

  Fantastic job will be attacking this very soon many thanks

• 
  @josephmtsindula725614 күн бұрын

  Nice job

• 
  @sometunes239217 күн бұрын

  Hiya bud, great videos. I’ve watched all the parts as I’ve got a 2005 L200 with the 4D56 engine and it needs the head gasket replaced. Have you got any tips and advice on where’s best to get parts. Cheers 👌👍

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  @ToolTimeWithTom17 күн бұрын

  I think I linked all the parts I used in the video description, hope it helps!

• 
  @benbrummitt795321 күн бұрын

  What were your symptoms for this needing replacing? Ive got a k74, noisy when coasting in gear, ok with clutch in or foot down. This has been floated as the possible problem

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom19 күн бұрын

  The bearing had detached from the rubber mount, interestingly didn't make much noise, only noticed when I was under for something else. Easy enough to crawl under and have a look

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  @danielrios995524 күн бұрын

  Do you have those 3D files by any chance??

• 
  @kanadianmaplesyrup25 күн бұрын

  What torque settings did you need when tightening the injector bolts?

• 
  @cocalarusnk23 күн бұрын

  5nm + 90 degrees

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  @kanadianmaplesyrup23 күн бұрын

  @@cocalarusnk 5nm?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom22 күн бұрын

  In the video description

• 
  @sigbreach25 күн бұрын

  Very detailed and useful video. Well done 👍

• 
  @dancharles694226 күн бұрын

  Random question but where did you get the floor tiles from? 😂

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom26 күн бұрын

  Duramat UK, I don't think they do these exact ones anymore but they've got similar

• 
  @dancharles694226 күн бұрын

  Thanks!

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  @brandondeel356727 күн бұрын

  I know this video is a bit old but hopefully you are still active on here. I'm putting in new rod bearings in my buddies rb20 and I head online that torque specs are 14-16nm, then 60-65degree. Is your method of 20mn, then 40nm basically the same thing? I'm using the green plastigauge and they're falling within the .038 mark with the torque specs I'm using. I made a mistake and put the tangs on the wrong side so I have to go back tomorrow and flip those around so I'll have to torque them again. Do you recommend I keep using my method or do the 20nm then 40nm method you're using? I have a digital torque wrench so I can accurately do the 60 degree but I would rather get the info directly from someone with experience building these engines. This is my first time doing something like this and I want to make sure its absolutely right! Oh BTW, I'm not doing a full rebuild, I'm just replacing bearings from the pan. His #6 bearing took some damage but not enough to knock at idle. Only over 2500 rpm so we caught it before doing any damage to the crank. Theres no grooving and I'm polishing the crank smooth before installing new bearings. May not be the best way to do the job but I we don't have the resources to do a full breakdown. Any advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated! Hoping to get the bottom closed back up tomorrow.

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  @ToolTimeWithTom27 күн бұрын

  So normally the torque application method is defined by the fixings used. Torque to yield bolts almost always use the angle method to set the clamp load, it's more accurate at hitting a precise clamp loading than a standard torque application. The Nissan standard fixings aren't torque to yield and should be fine with a standard torque application. I'm following the Nissan service manual so hopefully should be accurate and suitable for the fixings. Make sure you clean out the oil passages in the crank journals and use assembly lube going back together

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  @brandondeel356727 күн бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate it. I'll do the 20/40 method and check with plastigauge again to make sure tolerances are right. Its nerve racking doing something like this for the first time. I've seen that you need to be careful not to spray brake clean into the main passages when cleaning the rod passages? Should I just put some brake clean on a q tip and make a few passes that way or do you have another suggestion? I'm not using a crazy amount of polishing material so its not caking the passages but I definitely want to make sure they're clean.

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  @brandondeel356726 күн бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom so I took out #3 today and it is spun. Theres some discoloration on the cap and the bearings are quite this. Also the lettering and numbers are worn off the cap. The discoloration is not on the crank itself, just part of the cap. I know it would be wise to replace the con rods but is there a chance that slight discoloration due to heat doesn't mean the cap/rod are trashed? New bearing still fits nice and tight in the cap. I am going to sand and polish the crank and check tolerances, if the tolerances are still in spec, is it ok to use the slightly discolored cap and rod? Engine is in the car and we're trying to not have to pull it and completely rebuild the engine if possible but I've never messed with internals so I'm not 100% sure what is still considered acceptable. This motor won't even see 300hp without doing rods which is a future project. We just want to get back to stock operation. He does have a aftermarket(same size) turbo and running about 10-12psi so its making a little more power than stock but nothing crazy. Any input is appreciated.

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  @ToolTimeWithTom26 күн бұрын

  If it's spun it's time for a new rod. You'll have to take the head off anyway to get that out and get the crank measured. Pulling the motor only takes 2-3 hours start to finish, best to pull it out and go through everything

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  @brandondeel356726 күн бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom oof. Well, I guess the motor is coming out. Found a crank about 5 hours away in good condition for a decent price. Might end up just replacing it instead of having it machined and having to run thicker bearings. That was not what we wanted to find but it is what it is. Thanks for the help man. I'll be using your video to rebuild his engine for sure. One more quick question. When I pull the pistons, is it required to hone the cylinders or should I just pop the pistons right back in as is? Seems like I wouldn't want to do that if everything is operating properly as is right? Like, I don't necessarily need to check the ring gap if everything was good prior to disassembly right?

• 
  @chazhodge876828 күн бұрын

  How much fluid did you use in total for all 4 oil changes?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom22 күн бұрын

  In the video description

• 
  @osmankonukseven387129 күн бұрын

  Is it leaking oil now?

• 
  @louischoi2883Ай бұрын

  Hey mate, how did you make the knuckle hold on there not fall down after you removed the 4 lower control arm bolts 3:50?I did mine today, very struggling to lift it align with the 4 holes as it’s so heavy.

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  @ToolTimeWithTomАй бұрын

  I had the opposite issue, I couldn't get it down! From memory the lower ball joint mounting to the control arm is tapered as is the arm, they sort of wedged themselves together by pulling the knuckle outward. They weigh a ton don't they. Other option, you could stack up some bits of wood, put the knuckle on the wood while you're getting the bolts through? Or you could use a trolley jack?

• 
  @jonbraid2520Ай бұрын

  I wasn't sure if the caliper piston pushes in or was threaded back in but this confimed that they push in thanks.

• 
  @bobappleman8432Ай бұрын

  just have to say, wow, what a good video

• 
  @leonsutton299Ай бұрын

  Please tell me you live near Northamptonshire, I really need my injectors doing on my Alfa? Could you please let me know ?

• 
  @charlieletsgoАй бұрын

  Hello I cleaned and replaced my seals and injectors out all together and went for a drive and seems to run lumpy any ideas anyone

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  @ToolTimeWithTomАй бұрын

  Did you clean the sealing surface in the injector port ?

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  @charlieletsgoАй бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom no couldn't get them seals out so left them

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  @ToolTimeWithTomАй бұрын

  They injectors might not be sealing against the old copper washers or there could be air in the fuel system somewhere

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  @charlieletsgoАй бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom I replaced maf sensor which was bad fuel filter and still when driving it's like a wheel balancing shake but just had two new tyres and all wheels balanced

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  @jakelochrie4038Ай бұрын

  What size belt did you use as I’m searching to buy one for cbab but it comes up with 141 teeth & 160 teeth

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  @ToolTimeWithTomАй бұрын

  Just checked, I've linked the kit in the description, it says it's 160 teeth

• 
  @TheEulerIDАй бұрын

  Beautifully done and thorough job.

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  @ToolTimeWithTomАй бұрын

  Thanks!

• 
  @jaheimwilliams9768Ай бұрын

  What is the torque specs for the head bolts

• 
  @robmontoya1597Ай бұрын

  At that point you should had just removed the intake and walnut blast the valves 😂….

• 
  @giorgio14333Ай бұрын

  Sorry what torx number ?? 🙏🙏

• 
  @TheFarmhouseDIYАй бұрын

  🚜

• 
  @Its_NellllllАй бұрын

  This video safe me from forgot to put the washer and the plastic cone😂

• 
  @TheFarmhouseDIYАй бұрын

  🚜

• 
  @Max-ff8fiАй бұрын

  ...mia Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi 109 CV del 2009 con all'attivo 427.000 km e mai mai un problema mai ....auto con motore eccezionale!!!!

• 
  @SoapSud90902 ай бұрын

  Great video, extremely useful! Thank you

• 
  @i0am0fear02 ай бұрын

  is it necessary to replace the cam/hpfp bolts? The vw dealership near me says they want $300 + parts to change them during the TB job

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  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  They're listed as one time use but I've seen people reuse them, I'd go with what that dealership recommends as they'll be liable. $300 is crazy though, they're about $15 and will take about 5 minutes to do

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  @i0am0fear02 ай бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom I know right, I've been researching and it looks like a swap out of bolts? I hate the vw dealership near me though, they have no idea what they are doing

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  Yeah you just swap them out, you could even do them one at a time so as not to adjust the timing on the pulley if you so desired. Very easy job

• 
  @harper60892 ай бұрын

  Hey man. I have this same apexi turbo I am about to put on my rb25det. Do you remember what the size of the AN fittings were for the oil/coolant into the turbo? Also would re doing the coolant line at the rear of the block be too hard to do with the engine in the car?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  I think they're M12x1.25 but not 100% sure on that, I went with AN4 lines. Yeah will be tricky to do in the car but not impossible, there's a single M6 bolt holding the line on the back of the block, it's the clips for all the coolant lines that will be the trickiest bit

• 
  @harper60892 ай бұрын

  @@ToolTimeWithTom thanks for the reply and info mate, much appreciated!

• 
  @roberto2862 ай бұрын

  I am wondering. The oil bottles you used seem to have a long spout. Does the spout fit into the filter housing hole you placed the funnel in? If so, is it possible to place the inverted bottle spout into the hole to speed filling up? A small hole for a breather may be needed on the top (bottom) of the bottle after it is placed in the housing? What are your thoughts?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  Yeah you could give it a go, I think the thing that slows it down is there isn't a way for the displaced air to get out of the box

• 
  @salimmetin2 ай бұрын

  Hi, at 11:12 I've seen that you already put the injector seals on the injector and you put the injector in the hole while the seals are on it! Is that correct way to do? I have seen in other videos that first the seals are placed at their location and after that the injectors are mounted!

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  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  You can do it either way, it doesn't really matter, I found it easier to mount the seal on the injector and drop it in together because then you're not having to line the seal up with the injector hole in the head

• 
  @MC-dw5or2 ай бұрын

  I changed the rear bush while everything else was in place. Just lube the bushing. Use 1 crowbar to lever the wishbone down and another crowbar to lever the bushing off.

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  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  Yeah if you can get it to come off that way it's great, was hoping I could do the same but it was stuck on

• 
  @impaelas2 ай бұрын

  Thanks Tom! Will attempt this in my Peugeot 2.0 diesel as I've noticed smoke coming out. There was a small puddle of oil around the top of two of the injectors.

• 
  @abdotouil16642 ай бұрын

  Same thing for me , does it cause engin light ?

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  @impaelas2 ай бұрын

  @@abdotouil1664 it didn't for me. Just noticed the puddle and some smoke.

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  @captainotto2 ай бұрын

  The stainless pipe that brings the EGR gasses to the valve was blocked on mine nearly halfway through. I wasted years debating whether to get an EGR delete but all I needed to do was wait and let it delete itself. I found way less muck in the intake as I had expected. It was pretty much all in the plumbing leading to the throttle valve, the diffuser, and the throttle valve itself. I have a CAYC engine so I can't touch my EGR valve without some serious dismantling.

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  @nandrewbcannon70392 ай бұрын

  Yo can you share those files, or put them up somewhere?

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  @TheKruxed2 ай бұрын

  The skoda garage says you need to remove the whole front end to do this job, so its ironic to be here watching someone not doing that

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  @jeremyjackson11022 ай бұрын

  Very good video with great lighting thanks! I’m about to tackle this, but I want to know how you ‘adjusted’ the timing as you skipped that in your video. You seemed very confident and thorough in your methods yet the timing was still out slightly; is this common?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom2 ай бұрын

  Thanks! Are you referencing the position of the fuel pump gear where it was slightly out the first time and then needed tweaking? The timing of the gears is locked by the pin going through them onto the back side. The position of the gear in it's adjustment slots is somewhat irrelevant so long as the timing is held with the pins as these control the physical timing until the adjustment bolts are tightened

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  @SpongeBob-yk9oo3 ай бұрын

  I did the exact same thing as you and forgot to undo the CV bolt before jacking up the car, had to lower it again to undo 😂

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom3 ай бұрын

  Gets me every time!

• 
  @Mac_s943 ай бұрын

  I followed this step by step, used the same oil you said! Unfortunately I now have a leak from the plug!! New OEM plug and washer as well as PTFE tape on the plug still hasn’t resolved it 😔 have you ever come across it leaking after ?

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom3 ай бұрын

  Super odd! Never had a leak, always followed the torque spec and never had any issues. I think PTFE tape is oil soluble so that won't help you. I suppose you could drain it out again into a clean container, use permatex black or equivalent on the bolt threads, only a small amount though, you really don't want any bits of that floating around the box. It should really seal on the washer though, could try nipping it up a bit tighter but again you really don't want to strip the threads out the box!

• 
  @noodles_9993 ай бұрын

  Just curious would this help remove a p2ba6 code on my 2012 golf tdi??

• 
  @ToolTimeWithTom3 ай бұрын

  I think unlikely, better to look at other components first

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  @acepro7423 ай бұрын

  What size bit (torx? triple square?) is used for the inner 6 bolts?

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  @ToolTimeWithTom3 ай бұрын

  I can't remember the bit size but they're triple square bolts

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  @murrayadair13213 ай бұрын

  Great help, thank you

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  @S35CANAVERAL3 ай бұрын

  Thanks Tom, the link to the cleaning kit is very important, I diy the 4 injectors for the first time, on the 8 valve 1.6 tdci Ford DV6C, and cleaning the bore is essential, I think. After pulling out the injectors, there was crud in the bore.Everything worked out just fine, the injectors I pulled them out by hand, after 240 k kilometers, they did need programming, but hey,that's just fine. Well done !

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  @user-ee7cw7tr5u3 ай бұрын

  I wish i could work for you for free 😂