Jeff Smith has been an automotive journalist for over four decades serving as the editor of Hot Rod and Car Craft magazines making him an icon of of cutting edge automotive tech and how to content.If you've read either of these classic magazines over the years, you've probably read his stories about engine building, innovative new products and the fine art of tuning classic and current performance vehicles of all kinds. Together with his Production Editor Cam Benty, another legendary editor of automotive magazines who charge Smith's passion for improving the efficiency and performance of all types of transportation.
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Good video! Trying to build my 427 back for my 56 Chevy. Starting over from scratch. :) I'm in my 70's, so I hope this is the last time I have to do this. ;)
Best video on this topic period!! Thank you for the simplicity and common sense approach!
Best explanation of concentric check!❤ loved the fact that you included the importance of both planes of alignment, both parallel to block face and of course the driveshaft check too, perfect and thank you for this! “Perfect explanation Sir”😊
How many CFM in that carb
just buy dynosim6 for 150, best investment i made on my engine development, endless what ifs, and virtual tuning adjustments, saved me wasting 340 bucks on the wrong cam
THANKS FOR GOOD INFO FOR US NUBS!
Hello great video i have a 57 coupedeville 365 and now i want to upgrade to a edelbrock which size do you recemand a 500cfm avs2 or the 650 avs2 its a have car
Thanks
You never explained the duration you just explained how they standardized
Please note that is FOOT LBS and not LBS feet. Please get this right GRRRRRRRR.
how come you didn't show the indicated run-out afterward?
are you ever going address indicator sag and how it affects the true indicated runout?
Kindly explain how to find angle for end of opening Ramp and Beginning of closing ramp by cam shaft drawing . Make video on actual Camshaft drawing for various calculation.
kzread.infoTdUet19Mk3g my way to pull it out
Can I Use a Degree wheel to time a new rebuild with the heads and Intake Manifold on ?
BuzzJones Yes absolutely. The biggest difficulty will be establilshng TDC. The msot common tool used is a spark plug piston stop. The only problem is taht with newer heads and flattop pistons that often the piston stop will not contact the piston. What I've done in tese cases is to use a lever-action, over-center tool that was originally designed to remove/change valvesprings. If you use a flat bar to contact the valvestem insted of the spring retainer, you can use this tool to push down on either the intake or exhaust valve and use it as a piston stop. You must be very careful here not to hit the valve very hard with the piston or it may bend the valve, so approach the top of the travel carefully and slowly and under no circumstance use the starter motor to bump the engine - you must do it by hand wtih all the spark plugs out of the engine. But first, try the spark plug piston stop method and see if that works - its much easier to use and quicker.
How to you true the micrometer to the crank? If the mic isn't centered to the crank wouldn't it throw off your measurements?
Yes you are correct - if the dial indiator is not pependicular to the surface, it will affect the reading but sometimes it's just too time consuming to get it square. I've checked it both ways and frankly can't see a significant difference - perhaps 0.001-inch. If you are concerned with total accuracy - then yes it's important- but with a spec range of 0.000 to 0.005-inch - an error of 0.001 isn't that critical.
Awesome knowledge
I disagree with applying antiseize to any harmonic balancer. It’s press fit and should only be installed dry to the crank. WD-40 at most!
is it possible to degree a cam without a cam card ?
Is there a link to thise tools?
I'm so glad that you took the time to document this procedure. I've watched several alignment videos, but yours is the first to mention that the face has to be aligned.
That combo will make 425
Thanks for these great videos!
When you say install “straight up” do you mean just install it dot to dot? Reason I ask is because my cam has a 111 ICL and a 114 LSA and I was looking into if it needed to be degreed because it broke 3 valve springs, luckily they are dual so I didn’t drop valves
My dad bought a new Ford pickup in 1967 . The Ford dealership replaced the clutch do to shifting/dragging problems twice before one of the techs checked the bellhousing and found that the bellhousing was apparently drilled out of alignment . You never know ............
This is way off. I run the numbers on the Boss 429 and it came up with 551 hp. They only make in stock form around 430 hp on a dyno.
As mentioned in the video, this simplified HP estimator is just that - an estimate that assumes (there's that word again) several things like a really good camshaft that is likely a roller with more lift than a flat tappet. Plus as mentioned several other variables. I ran the numbers to get your 551 hp at 6,000 rpm. The Ford numbers of 450 lb-ft of torque and 375 hp is using a stock and very mild flat tappet cam with a stock intake and cast iron exhaust. If you put headers, a better intake, a nice hydraulic roller cam, and enough carburetor it would probably make 530 lb-ft of torque and somewhere around 550 hp. If you tested a bone stock 429 - it will probably make more than the factory numbers - the OE's often under-rated their engines in order to pass through car inssurance regulations back in the day. Plus, the Boss 429 was rated at 5,200 rpm peak hp - way short of what you plugged into it at 6,000 rpm - do the math - with 1.25 x 429 and then peak hp at 5,200 - it comes to 475 . So it should be obvious that rpmplays a big part in this estimate. We are working with 20 to 30 variables here and yet estimating power to come up with a single number as the result. These are just estimates - it's possible that the Boss 429 isn't capable of 1.25 lb-ft per cubic inch. But I think it probably is - again assuming everythign else. Also consider that this 1.25 lb-ft/ci is based on using modern combustion chambers - which is what establishes combustion efficiency. A Boss 429 chamber may not be that good. But then again - it might be capable of actuall more since its close to a hemi chamber.
What would u recommend I got 454 gen 5 what kind of heads and carb u recommend it has a 520 280 Comp Cam
You said at the beginning of the video one has to be within .001" inch of concentricity - FALSE. One has to be with .005" run out or .010" of total indicated run-out. So if one has a reading of 8 thousand on the dial indicator their run out is 4 thousand and within spec and they don't have to do anything with offset dowel pins.
I find it ironic you have a summit hat on. They can't even give out their cam info because they don't know it...they only know some of the info...real idiots at summit.
Does the offset throw the bolt holes off bell housing and block
I think this post is dead. There is enough clearance within the bolt holes to allow movement. If you take a bolt and put it in a the bellhousing tons of clearance hence the need for dowel (alignment) pins. Have them on cylinder heads for the same purpose.
Good stuff!! Very clear explanation!! Great job!!
Hi Jeff I’m in the process of building a 489 and was wondering how you think the Mama Bear cam would work with 10:1 compression, and a set of AFR 335 Enforcers. Great video .. TIA
Actually this car is very good and great shifting😊
Are u ready?
Need to do another Texas turnaround.❤
Well how would you get the torque number w out a dyno???
It's an average ..good heads intake, headers, 9 to 1 compression say. Based upon thousands of engine dyno pulls
Hey Jeff I just watched your big block combo video I have a 427 that's 0.60 over so a 439 it's 10.5 to 1 compression it's got a Howard's hydraulic roller 235x241@50 with 618 lift and a 108 lsa it's got a forged crank good gm dimple rods and a set of AFR 265 oval port heads it made 661 hp and 605 torque on the dyno I know this is a great street combo but I want it to be a Lil more nasty I have a comp cams xr292r solid roller that is 254x260@50 with 660x666 lift on a 110 lsa what's your thoughts on doing this cam swap I don't mind the Lil extra mantnince with a solid roller?
Excellent tutorial,thank you!
I have always used a piston "stop" degree of 30 + / - in either rotation! Jeff's 47 degrees ensures even more accuracy.... but is not necessary. 30 +/- is near perfect. Keep in mind that this is not limited to camshaft degreeing.... it also serves as an excellent means for locating true # 1 TDC that can be used for Ignition Timing as well.
Excellent video thanks only had to do this one time before to make sure the bell was centered but i did not check for flatness that os a good tip keep up the good work.
Isn't the degrees of the lobes come with the manufactured cam? I'm not understanding the purpose of the degree wheel. Timing marks sets the cam, correct?
Not necessarily! The keyway in the crankshaft indexes the lower sprocket to the crankshaft....assuming that the keyway is correct. The "dot" in the upper sprocket is to align with the "dot" in the lower sprocket. This indexes the camshaft to the crankshaft, the chain locks them together! To further degree the camshaft, an offset bushing is used at the upper sprocket........ or, we use a lower sprocket with several offseting keyways in it. Now, to precisionally verify that all is good, we use the true # 1 TDC markings against the camshaft lobe operation, as per the manufacturer's specs.
I have an 85cc engine, which is roughly 3hp. With this calculation, it's saying my engine is around 106 hp. This can't be accurate.
He said small block chevy. V8 v8 v8
@@hankclingingsmith8707 cylinders dont matter, engine build type is the only thing that matters, the FACTOR 1.25 must be changed DOWN for stock and UP for build $$$$$$
How do you know where to position the pointer?
The pointer is adjustable so that you can split the "stop". The degree wheel, once attached, should NOT be moved against the crankshaft.
Amazing vid! thanks for the explanation. One question though, where does the 1.25 in the CID*1.25 comes from? was there a follow up to this vid explaining it?
Thanks Jeff, just did this procedure on my 66 Nova with a Tremec 5 speed. The dial indicator set up took forever LOL. There should be a video just on that. One more task completed on a 20 year project. Next getting the hydraulic clutch installed and bled.
Nice!
Great video, thank you.
What do you think of speedmaster cylinder heads? They make an as cast oval port with 2.19 and 1.88 valves.
I read one of your articles where you did a roller retrofit on a 454 and you used the comp xr276hr cam. You said your friends car had 3.08 gears and with traction it would run 11.50 1/4 miles. What torque converter stall did you use in the simulation?
For those that have asked. All bell housings need to be checked, factory and aftermarket. It is 50/50. It either will be in spec, or it will not. But you have to be 100% certain. I put a TKO in one car, (years ago) and a TKX in the other this past year. One had an aftermarket housing (Bendtsens) and the other was OEM. Making sure all paint etc. is removed from the mating faces of the block, bell flanges engine and transmission sides, and the face of the transmission case. Also make sure the inside of the bell flange circle is clean, as well as the pilot bearing retainer outer diameter. And the dowel pin holes in the bell housing are clean and true. Running a fine tooth flat file (using fingertips like playing the piano) and make the file in figure eights or a knife stone like in the video. Also checking runout on the flywheel since you are already familiar with the process. Stacking up by using a clutch alignment tool, put the tool in the disc, put the disc in place flat against the flywheel, set the pressure plate against the clutch disc and install the pressure plate bolts and then run them down until the bolt heads just contact the pressure plate, and then tighten them in a star pattern about 1/2 turn each until snug (about 10 foot lbs) and then use a torque wrench set at 15 ft lbs, tighten following the star pattern and keep adding 5 ft lbs until you reach final toque per spec for your bolts (ARP) or per manual for your application. All of this will take some time, but worth every second you spend prepping for the miles and time you would be driving without troubles. And the RobMC cammed pins are worth everything they ask!