Spanner Rash is a father and son DIY automotive restoration blog and channel with an eclectic mix of automotive repair, resto and custom projects running concurrently. We love to share our tinkerings with classic bikes such as the Triumph Bonneville and Honda CB750 which is more the old man's forte, but also enjoy working on modern classic cars such as the BMW E30 and E46 M3, more the son's area. You can find helpful how-to guides and detailed project logs on our blog here: www.spannerrash.com
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Trying to figure out why my front brake squeals no matter how I adjust it. I have a feeling my piston looks similar.. I put new pads on it and greased the piston a bit and it helps but iv still just got this awful squealing noise
And a top view from the side showing the roof panel especially the front starting one
Would you mind giving us a slow video showing every corner top to bottom, front, back, side. Roof side shots to show the overhangs on al sides. The roof view the inside. How the braces are all together. Which eay the roof braces are facing, a detailed video so we can try to use it to put this absolute nightmare of a shed up. Im on with the roof now and the roof holes don't line up, im thinking maybe the braces are facing the wrong way or they are sat on the wrong side of the angle brackets, any chance of a detailed roof brace video asap pls 🙏
I did post on one of your other Blade vids these are exactly the same lowering/raising plates I had on my 1997 RRV, I know this a pretty old vid now, but one of my bug bares about watching people showing how to fit items is they never seem to use copper grease, on the threads, I was always told to use this as it made disassembly much easier later on... just a thought.
Ha :) If you knew how much copper grease we go through, you would fall over. I hear what you say with this vid. Most importantly if using anything stainless not using some form of anti sieze is playing russion roulette.
Ohhh this takes me back to when I had a 97 RRV Blade in HRC colours, loved that bike, developed it over a couple of years with Ohlins rear shock and fork kit, crashed it twice, rebuilt it twice even rode to the South of France on it a couple of times, no comfort issues, funnily enough your footrest lowering kit is the same I had, but reversed so it gave better ground clearance, that bike was the first that I got my knee down on and I was in my early 40's at the time, stupidly part-ex'd it in 2004 for a new RR4 Fireblade which although was faster was so uncomfortable I hated it on the annual ride to France and back, with mates. I've subsequently owned 5 different model Blades, but my all time fav has to be that 1997 RRV, and although this might sound strange, and a different manufacturer but my GSXR1000K5 felt to me so much like my 1997 RRV just in a faster ultimately more comfortable better handling package, two bikes I wish I'd never sold, alone with my VTR SP1 🤔
I really should look at a GSXR1000 before I get too old :) I keep coming back to Blades, I also fancy a 954 because everybody says how good they are.
@@SPANNERRASH You know you want to... I had a 954, great bike, but tbh, as much as I love Blades, the GSXR1000K5/6 is so much better, better get one before they get too pricey, every time I look they are still going for what I paid for my second one in 2015.
"You can put a Rolls Royce on these" - yes, if you got one 😂
Haha a man can dream. 😂
I don't have a helper so I would use my miter saw on a stand with the end stop set at a desired length. Thank you for the video, I'll give it a try. 👍
Using the right tools would have helped massively, hope your crib build goes well!
Hey guys. I bought one from ya at Stafford in April. Easy to assemble and mount engine. Your next mission, should you choose, is to add a rotator.... somehow. However, this stand works a treat. Thank you!
It is a great stand. But it isn't us that sell them :) ours is just a review. I like the idea of something that would rotate the engine, but I suspect it would make the stand a hell of a lot bigger.
Good job!
Cheers Barry!
Great help. Thanks very much!
Cheers Graham, glad it was useful!
There is a joke, when somebody says: there is 90% chance that this will work, and 100% that it won't. :D
Haha! Yeah it's all a matter of timescales. 😆
Lifting front by the engine?
I am lifting it by the E30's front subframe, it works really well. On my E46 there is a dedicated central front jacking point so that also works perfect.
Can you do a detailed video of the mounting brackets for the seat rails and how you sized up the fabricated steel please 😊
There wouldn't be much more to see. If you look at the part where I am drilling you will see that they are literally two small plates about 5cm long with two holes drilled in them. I would use 3 to 4mm thick plate. The inner rail just needed the holes extending so the plates are used on the outside. The seats are great, everybody who sits in the car says they are a game changer compared to the original seats. Hope this helps.
Glad to see your progress (havent finished watching though).. however I fear that broken tab might cause vibration in the clutch basket...
Great point! I do intend to get another, but I'm going to hang on until I find one at an autojumble.
@@SPANNERRASH Goodluck! I hope you come right!👌
On my petcock. I font have a return nipple, whatever the brass fitting is that the fuel lines go onto. Is there a way i can add one, or would it be better to buy a new petcock with 2 of the brass nipples?
The tubes/nipples just push in so if you had the right tube you could replace it. But I suspect it would be a lot easier just to buy another.
Why not sand it just that little bit more so it doesnt even show the weld?
I guess I was worried about thinning the surrounding metal necessarily, and knowing its never going to be seen under underseal and carpets I wasn't too worried.
@@SPANNERRASH fair enoughh
Would this be the same with a v55/4 form
Sorry, but I haven't completed a V55/4. I think that is the form for registering a new or kit car type vehicle. I suspect that they may want some more information, but I haven't any experience of the form so I really can't say.
Great to see someone honest makes us all feel a bit more human, we all make mistakes never to happen again lol, keep up the good work, fellow cafe racer rebuilder, enjoy life
Thanks 👍 Solving the problems keeps our minds agile :)
Didn’t know you had garages in UK?? 😮
Haha course we do, we just pronounce them differently. 😆
Every time I see that engine I wanna touch it. Really good looking Honda engine. And master content master 👍🤣
I know how you feel! Thanks for the comment.
Really interesting topic, very well explained, made the job far less daunting than it actually is. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! I enjoyed doing them.
Hi stripping lots of clutches and normally they are dripping with oil and yours looks very dry and the adjuster was pivoting and not rotating fingers crossed you sort it, I am 18 month into my super sport cafe racer build 👍👍👍
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by pivoting, I'll have to watch the video again to try to see what you mean. I can't wait to getting it going well enough for me to start thinking about the paint.
Good afternoon, if the clutch cable has an adjuster at the clutch case end, then the clutch case should have threads too so that you can wind the cable in and adjust the slack properly at that end as well. If the cable is not secure at that end, then you'll always struggle to adjust it properly. Have the threads been stripped out on the case? Maybe its just the wrong cable and it needs one with a wider adjuster?
I'm with you. I expected it to thread in, but the threaded part seems to be bonded to the outer of the cable so it wouldn't be easy to thread it in and out. There is a nut that will adjust how far the threads will go into the hole. I'll have to investigate it further when I next have it apart. But I don't think it would have been causing the clutch slip.
@@SPANNERRASHIf you can get your hands on the Honda workshop manual, on page 183, you’ll see that there should be 2 hex ‘nuts’ at the casing end, one with a shoulder. This one slides into the casing up to the shoulder and has an internal thread. The threaded portion of the cable screws into this. The other nut is a locknut which should be on the threaded portion of the cable, fwd of the one that slides into the casing. As you turn the cable it will move out of and into the shouldered nut, giving initial adjustment of cable free play at clutch lever. The manual gives the free play amount. When you achieve this amount you tighten the locknut. The final amount of clutch cable free play is achieved at the lever end. Clutch adjustment is as you say in you video.
Shopping for one now! :) I don't suspect this was causing the slip though, there was plenty of play at the lever end.
Hello from the Midwest US! The underside of the e30 is lovely! So my shop is two cars deep and the car in the rear of it is afforded the time to sit and be worked on opportunistically - these will make that space much more pleasant and useful. I am wondering if just a couple more "stories" would make these high enough to drop engine and or transmission out of small cars like Honda Fit/Jazz and Toyota Yaris, even e120 Corolla that dont need the subframe dropped to do so, while being able to slide the unit out and not scrape the bottom. That could be life changing in my 200+ year old shop with it's 90 year old busted concrete floor! Subscribed and excited to see that lovely bimer be finished
Hey Drew, thanks for the kind words! These wheel cribs have been brilliant so far. I've had the E30 on and off them a few times now. I think depending on the car you'd need a fair bit more hight to drop an engine down and out. Brilliant for gearbox removals though. A couple more layers to add height would be tempting, but I'm doubtful I could get a car on them. I'm already operating about max for my jack and how many risers I am prepared to use. Maybe you have other means of lifting a car higher, if so, I think if you're careful they should be spot on. Hope that helps!
Yea I was thinking that as well - tranny swaps much easier. And no I don’t have any means better than you to lift. lord willing someday I’ll have a 2 post. They aren’t expensive the building and concrete required is :) Enjoy your bmw - looking forward to seeing it in my recommend videos! And enjoy your summer! It’s short like mine
Do you know which nipple the tube with the tip over valve attaches to? Ive just had my engine replaced and had to do a few tweaks to it, now cant find where the tip over tube goes! I also seem to be missing the tube that fits to the second nipple. If you can point me to location of the tip over valve i can figure out the other one, thank you!
Sorry, I haven't got the Sprint any more so I can't take a look to say. Good luck.
@@SPANNERRASH ah that's a shame. Thank you anyway! Your videos still helped me do both upgrades to mine a couple years ago, lifesaver!
If you power coat a long gym bar, can u skip the baking in the oven?
The oven baking makes the powder into a solid coating, so I'm afraid you can't skip it, the powder would just rub off.
Glad I came across this video
Hope it helped.
Wow that CB750 rips. That must have been a real sleeper back in '68. A 900 Sportster might get it off the line, but once the 4 cylinder winds up its over 😂
True. We forget what these things were like first time around. Imagine going back with a modern superbike, it would have seemed like science fiction.
Oh the sound would terrify those poor people. Thanks for sharing this, safe travels 👍 😊
Great job😎🤘❤️🔥💪
Thank you! 😃
Just to keep getting this message out there, those are not jacking points, and people who jack from them are the reason they rust out in the first place because it separates the layers of metal and promotes corrosion. Those footwell corner cups were for transporting the shells around at the assembly plant. The jacking points are on the sills, but I personally use the chassis rails and a rubber pad. Nice looking repair though, very smart!!
Cheers! Yeah I got corrected very quickly on that - every day is a school day! 😃
@@SPANNERRASH apologies, didn't know people had already pointed it out! Video was on my recommended! Haha
Enjoyable video thanks and quite a nice bike. I love VFRs’ . May I suggest if you’re having trouble getting on and off any bike use the side stand first…. Now for the trick….engine off, engage 1st gear clutch out ease the bike forward to take up the play in chain / shaft… side stand down then dismount. The bike will not go anywhere especially if someone nudges you from behind I.e another bike. Also right hand bends at speed tuck into nearside, better view and safer from oncoming traffic…. Cheers
Thanks. I have never go into the leaving it in gear idea, too many old bikes! But it is such a good thing to do, especially with bikes that don't lean over on the stand much. The CB I have virtually falls on it's side when I put it on the side stand. and you could use the sidestand off the other one, which you haven't seen yet, as a carpark exit pole.
I have a 1997 750 VFR with still only 15,000 miles on the clock. I do admit to dropping it once. Came to a roundabout, gave way to an artic, but didn't see the car close to the rear of the trailer. Braked ok, but I couldn't get my feet down quick enough. The only damage was a bent clutch lever, which I removed and bashed back into shape. Happy riding.
It's not my first drop on the side, but at least it was a no speed and I wasn't actually on it. Makes a change :)
The sensor's arm points to the wrong direction. It should piont to the back of the car. The bracket on the control arm should be right angle and the linkage betwen the control arm bracket and the sensor's arm should be almost upright.
Really? Mine is the wrong way around? 😆 How do you know this?
I beat to death my US CBR900RR with thousands of unknown miles (broken odometer) commuting daily for 13 years! NEVER adjusted the valves .Just oil changes and a stator or two.I finally gave it to my son and bought a gently used 954RR still riding for 9 years with four more to go to retirement.
Blades are great. I haven't had a 954....YET!
You need conditioner as well to keep the leather soft.
Wise, I use one from Gliptone which seems good.
Good video. I just bought a gen 5 vfr800 & I think I'm getting bar risers and possibly a new screen. Do the bar risers affect handling in a negative way?
Not that I have noticed. I think they work well, but don't make a dramatic difference.
Im not big expert, but from other guys what i have seen,that after you put this rust preperat and it react and get purple, you needwait when it get almost dry and again sand itand put on one more time this preperat until itnot show anymore purplecolor. What i mean with that, is the rust poors is still thereand in time it will keep rusting.
I think there are quite a few different rust converter products with different procedures. I am not saying this way is the best, but the rust has not come back at all on this filler neck so far. 😁 Lets hope that continues
You missed an opportunity for a Paul Daniels phrase. For this next trick, I'm going to need some help, please give a warm welcome to my beautiful assistant Miss -----------------.
Haha! If only I'd thought on at the time.
Wow. I wouldn't trust this for no amount of money. Lol. Some things you just should not cheap out on.
You'd be really surprised about how solid they are. I am far more confident than I was with axle stands.
I have seen the light, and the light, and the light, and the light, and the light, and the light, and the light, and the light, and the light,. Great video as always and some very useful advice and guidance. The young gun has a great rhythm on the hammer too! I'll look into getting some of these. Cheers!!
Hahaa cheers Mike! Its super bright in the garage now which makes filming (and seeing) much easier. 😃
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You're a good man i can tell.
I appreciate that!
When you remove the fairing panels, there should also be 3x plastic push clips, 2 holding it to the plastic V piece, and 1 up under the nose cone. These are moved by pushing the middle section In and not by digging them out with a screwdriver as you have shown with the 2 bottom clips, as this will result in them breaking. Just for future reference.... cheers
Thanks for sharing. I think the bottom clips have been replaced in the past. I hven't spotted the other 3, but I will look.
just seeing the rust when you unboxed it was enough for me to know never to buy this cheap crap
Definitely a shame that, but it's still a bargain for what it is, it's going to live outside anyway.
Ha! Just finished my lights a few hours ago. Now im here!
Great, that should shine a light on things. :)
Top tip -- if you are welding gasless , remove the torch shroud for better visibility. Be doing my own soon and not looking forward to it-- even though ive done it countless times before, -- it always seems more daunting when its your own car lol.
Cheers Martin, yeah it's always tough getting a proper visual on what you're welding with the mask on. Good luck on the job!
Very timely! Coincidentally I'm just about to install better lighting in the garage so I can see what I'm doing on my GT750 project!
Perfect! We find them really good, and very cheap to run.
Hello. Nice video mate. Do you get any dust outside while blasting ? i want to keep in my home garage. Thank you
We bought a dust extractor, like this one ebay.us/hHkqG9 , which we connect to the outlet pipe. There will always be some dust leakage from the cabinet, which is worse without an extractor. They are not too expensive.
@@SPANNERRASH ok 👍
Could i ask for pictures up close on the e30 ebrake switch? Im in the process of fixing it and i would really like to see how its mounted
Hi mate, I could probably take you some, but there's no way they are going to be clearer than the pics on this: ebay.us/Iq4d68 Hope that helps!
all the hard work has paid off ....nice build thread !! this has given me some motivation to start my e30 m3 restoration .
Thanks Dal! Sounds like a very exciting E30 project, get stuck in. 😃
I have a 2011 ford transit 2.2 swb semi high top ,would this type of tow bar fit on it, Thanks
Yes, they add a bit in the middle to change the SWB to MWB. Unless you are looking for one second hand the supplier will confirm the right type.