Mike's Carburetor Parts is the number one carburetor parts & fuel injector supplier on the Internet. We have carburetor kits, floats, choke thermostats and many other carb parts. Visit www.carburetor-parts.com
They designed these carburators for Chevys to explode and scrap and melt down to make Dodges.
@DougsMessyGarage22 сағат бұрын
Thanks for the Holley 94 playlist. Lots of great information.
@DougsMessyGarage23 сағат бұрын
I kind of figured that was how the power valve worked but it is good to have it explained.
@MikesCarburetor15 сағат бұрын
Thanks. That is great.
@DougsMessyGarage23 сағат бұрын
Great information
@idaho_girlКүн бұрын
Saving this for later!
@jigiels29Күн бұрын
On the carb for my Mercruiser 3.0 there doesn't seem to be that little arm that hits the cam for pulloff. It just looks like it was made without it. Does that sound right? Im getting bogging about half way through thr throttle range but it smooths out if I just push passed it.
@MikesCarburetor15 сағат бұрын
That is normal on some of the Mercarbs. The bogging is probably a dirty passage.
@georgeh16502 күн бұрын
I need some advice if you don't mind. Have qjet gm350. Recently rebuilt. Runs great wot. Won't idle, idle fluctuating up and down, idling bout 900 to 1000. I've checked every thing. Not sure what to do. Thanks.
@MikesCarburetor15 сағат бұрын
Please refer to this page for some ideas. Could be a lot of different things: www.carburetor-parts.com/quadrajet-rough-idle.html
@zackeryclark86223 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for the help ver much appreciated
@78SilverBronco4 күн бұрын
Hey Mike, great video! Do you know when you’ll be getting new Daytona 1904’s in stock? I have a 1904 off a Ford 144 inline 6, but I would like to put it onto a Ford 200 inline 6. Do you think a rebuild + swapping the main jet would be sufficient or should I look for a 1904 with a larger throttle blade and Venturi?
@MikesCarburetor3 күн бұрын
I think swapping the 1904 will work. Try one size bigger jet. I never know when we will get the new ones. We have them on order constantly. Order 200 and we get 100 kind of thing.
@78SilverBronco3 күн бұрын
Thanks Mike! I have one of your rebuild kits on the shelf, I’ll freshen it up and toss a different jet in it and see how it does. I appreciate the advice!
@tacticalofficer61034 күн бұрын
Thank you !!!
@MikesCarburetor4 күн бұрын
Welcome!
@jamescaneda95154 күн бұрын
@@MikesCarburetorI’ll be purchasing a 1904 from you real soon. Rebuilding my 1951 L110 International PU. Thanks for the tutorial.
@phillipball-reed80715 күн бұрын
Some great info in the video! It solved my problem! Thanks
@MikesCarburetor3 күн бұрын
Thank you for that. I appreciate the feedback
@10rrace7 күн бұрын
What is the difference between the Rodchester 22 and the rodchester 24 castings for the tbi systems
@MikesCarburetor6 күн бұрын
Sorry I wouldn't know that.
@MikesCarburetor6 күн бұрын
The Rochester 22 and Rochester 24 are different types of throttle body injection (TBI) systems, primarily used in General Motors vehicles. The differences between these two castings typically relate to the following aspects: Bore Size: The Rochester 22 often features a smaller bore size compared to the Rochester 24. The bore size affects the amount of air that can pass through the throttle body, which in turn influences the engine's airflow and power output. Flow Rate: Because of the difference in bore size, the Rochester 24 generally allows for a higher airflow rate, making it suitable for larger or higher-performance engines. Fuel Delivery: The fuel injectors used in these TBIs might differ in flow rates to match the air intake. The Rochester 24 might be paired with injectors that can deliver more fuel to accommodate the increased airflow. Application: The Rochester 22 is typically used in smaller engines, where a lower flow rate is sufficient. The Rochester 24, on the other hand, is used in larger or higher-performance engines that require more air and fuel. Mounting and Compatibility: There may also be differences in how these TBIs mount to the intake manifold or their compatibility with different engine models. Identification: The casting numbers or markings on the throttle bodies help identify the specific model. These numbers are usually cast into the body of the TBI unit and are used to distinguish between the Rochester 22 and Rochester 24. These differences are crucial when selecting a TBI system for a specific engine, as choosing the right one ensures proper fuel and air delivery, optimizing engine performance.
@camerondow41847 күн бұрын
I'm working on a TSX-363 and no matter how many times I clean out the carb and all the jets, I can't get any fuel past the bowl. Floats have been adjusted within spec, and the entire fuel system has been cleaned and replaced new. Is it possible with these TSX models to take something like a TSX-33 and change out all the jets and internals to what is in the TSX-363? I cleaned the carb with acetone and Im guessing theres a deposit somewhere under the main jet thats causing a blockage.
@MikesCarburetor6 күн бұрын
Changing jets to another number would take a detailed build sheet for each carburetor. Unlikely to find such a thing. I would start by squirting spray carb cleaner through each passage to make sure they are clear. Also are you sure the float bowl is filling up. A new needle often sticks closed. Wiping off with mineral spirits might help that.
@ChrisRodgers-z6j11 күн бұрын
Mike I have a 2009 Mercrusier 5.0 . Every year on the first ,second and third times out, the engine starts fine ,idles fine , when you first push the throttle down somewhere between 2 to 3 thousand rpm the engine runs very rough. If you try to add more power it will stall almost out. After the engine boggs and wants to stall, you can slowly add more power, then after say 5 min it will run just fine for the rest of your current time out. Seems to clear itself as the boating season progresses. I tried Quick Clean and Seafoam to no avail. Any Thoughts?
@MikesCarburetor8 күн бұрын
I would take the carburetor apart and clean it. I'll bet you have dirt in the system. Could be junk in the gas tank also.
@timdybala712713 күн бұрын
IS IT A GOOD CARB? OR SHOULD SWAP HOLLEY
@MikesCarburetor8 күн бұрын
I have never run a 4300 but from what I hear it is a bit troublesome.
@timdybala71278 күн бұрын
@@MikesCarburetor thanks
@WilliamMunny-d8s14 күн бұрын
i know when rebuilding these carbs they recomend zero-ing out the bleeder screws then turning them out about 1.5 turns as a starting point. BUT whats a zero-ed out stated of the choke adjustments look like? Context; i just bought a 76 F150 with 360/390 stock carb. it had a bad off idle stumble when i got it, so i decided to rebuild it. The FULE filter at the carb was overflowing with large grain rust, so i replaced it with a new one AND a see thru one pre pump.[note after just blowing out the old filter i could see thru it so i kept it] now with carb rebuilt im having trouble getting the choke to work AND also not keep high idle and slam into gear. if i get the idle slow enough then i have ot feather throttle for a minute on cold start cuz choke isnt right. Note; my heater tube from manifold is broke off like you mentioned., SO can i get this working for a spring/summer /fall truck w/o buying a warming tube or electric choke by just using the stock bracket to hold the htr core tubes against choke? How do i zero out the adjustment screws on choke to start getting it set up? ive already removed all unnecessary vac hoses and plugged everything off except brakes, dist and tranny. also need to plug warm tube hole like yuo mentioned
@WilliamMunny-d8s14 күн бұрын
Forgot to mention, now with carb reinstalled, the stumble seemed to be gone at first but is coming back, not as bad as before. my prepump filter seems clean { i just did a comression test too and found why i have a miss, most cylinders are 95-110 but number 4 is 75-82ish] Will that affect the stumbble?
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
@@WilliamMunny-d8s A cylinder that low will cause all kinds of problems including a stumble.
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
@@WilliamMunny-d8s Getting the rust stuff probably means a dirty gas tank.
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
Nothing to zero on the choke. Place the thermostat onto the housing and then hold the throttle open a bit then twist the cap until the choke valve closes. Tighten it there.
@barrystellrecht921814 күн бұрын
Hi Mike, I'm rebuilding a carb like this. There was NOT a washer(stepped) on the diaghragm shaft. The Standard rebuild kit says to use a 1/16" flat washer from the kit. It is plastic and not sure if I need to or should put this in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also there is a metal washer in the kit that fits nicely but it is 1/8" thick.
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
1st test the pump action with some fluid in the bowl. Then add any metal washer to the top spring and test again. You may, or may not need it. It isn't clear because of the wear you have over 60 years.
@patrobertson275615 күн бұрын
Thank you sir! Your videos are excellent!
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
Appreciate it!
@darrinoilar596815 күн бұрын
Are all the Rochester 2GC fast idle cams similar to one another? On my boat the cam is not stepped, but i see some that are. Is this a normal variant for boats?
@MikesCarburetor13 күн бұрын
I don't know if it is marine specific but yes the cam can be smooth or stepped.
@darrinoilar596812 күн бұрын
Thank you
@patrickfitzpatrick651115 күн бұрын
Hi can you do a video explaining all the vacuum lines please
@Burchrg2417 күн бұрын
Put a dab of grease on accelerator pump armature, polish shaft and dab grease on spring, polish nose of spring end cap.
@60sPatinaRust18 күн бұрын
Very helpful video!! I didn’t take pictures and this really helped me with re-assembly!!
@MikesCarburetor15 күн бұрын
oops!
@andrewdrevdahl232920 күн бұрын
Vary dark can't see it
@edg510221 күн бұрын
The top section of that carb has a plug over that screw that you can pop out. Then you can adjust the metering rod by just removing the air filter housing. Did that to mine probably 30 years ago, still running in my old F250. I usually have to adjust it for emissions testing, and I added an air/fuel gauge to get it right. I also made a plug for that hole out of a vent valve seal. Just trimmed the edges so it fit in the hole.
@MikesCarburetor15 күн бұрын
Good feedback. Thanks
@SpeizioCustoms24 күн бұрын
For the a/f idle screws is it clock wise leaning it and counter clockwise richening it?
@MikesCarburetor15 күн бұрын
counter clockwise lets more fuel/mixture in
@billhayward266826 күн бұрын
I bought a rebuilt Q jet from rock auto #702 9207 and out of the box it ran very rich. Adjusting the idle mixture screws where no help. The float level was good. I installed a fuel pressure regulator and adjusted it down to the #2 and it ran better. I decided to take it a part and found that the power piston spring appears to be too short. It doesn't lift it at all. I looked for a carb kit that has the spring included ,wasn't able to find one. I found a number of springs in your store but I have no clue which one is correct. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video,thanks
@TateChmielewski26 күн бұрын
Helpful video! I'm working on my new to me 64 Biscayne with the 230. Who ever messed with the carburetor last put the fast idle cam on backwards. It would stall out at operating temp.
@kylehooper298129 күн бұрын
I have thus carb, been struggling with it for some time. It's my first carb if that helps. But in the manual, it says "IMPORTANT: Before checking float level, raise float and allow it to fall; however, DO NOT force downward by hand" Does this mean: 1. I simply let it rest by itself and do the measuring and bending? Or 2. I lightly push down on the float taking care to not apply too much force and then take the measurement? The numbers are 9mm amd 24mm for me because I have the spring loaded one. So do I let it rest on its own upside down and measure 9, or do I lightly push down and measure 9?
@MikesCarburetor24 күн бұрын
Just let it rest by it's own weight;
@markbrownsr436129 күн бұрын
Hi Mike I have Pontiac 455 3 Rochester middle carb what is normal set the 2 mixture screws?
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
starting out 1 1/2 turns then adjust after it is running and warmed up.
@mrbakerskatz8 күн бұрын
@@MikesCarburetor adjust with the help of a vacuum gage to highest vacuum ? Is that what I need ?
@MikesCarburetor6 күн бұрын
@@mrbakerskatz That is one way. More of a steady vacuum close to highest.
@mrbakerskatz6 күн бұрын
@@MikesCarburetor yes Thank you ! It’s been rebuilt Runs beautiful other than catches the high idle …requiring just the slightest tap to release = fuel economy
@andrebourque9783Ай бұрын
I am wondering how to remove the old leather plunger and installing the new blue one that came in the kit. watching the video you did not show how to do so. this is for a rochester bc one barrel,
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
You cannot replace a leather with a rubber. You must have a carb that has an aftermarket replacement. You will need to replace the entire pump. There are 2 depending on the size. www.carburetor-parts.com/rochester-b-bc-accelerator-pumps
@venisonslayerАй бұрын
Thank you, I have been working on a D-15 II for a couple years now and this was the best video i have seen for the carburetor.
@LostandFoundClassicsАй бұрын
Thanks, Mike! Great video, short, to the point, solved the problem! Thanks! Lost and Found Classics.
@codyt4012Ай бұрын
Hi there, so I'm working on one of these carbs. When I tipped mine over 2 check balls came out instead of a ball and weight. Either that or I lost the weight when I tipped this over on the bench. Could this carb have used a second check ball as the weight or am up a creek on getting this thing back into working order. Or do you guys have an extra check weight I can buy with a rebuild kit?
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
Yes, that isn't a problem.
@ninja63639Ай бұрын
From what I've been reading the standard float level is too high and will cause flooding. How much lower should it be set?
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
It should be set to the specs as provided in the instruction sheet of the kit.
@jakeman4325Ай бұрын
Thanks
@barry.anderbergАй бұрын
what about using a 5/64" drill bit to set the gap on the choke plate per the mercruiser service manual?
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
Yes, that works great.
@zombienectarАй бұрын
Thank you for no stupid intro and straight into a video that helped me right when I needed it.
@MikesCarburetor29 күн бұрын
I know what you are saying. I hate watching videos where the youtuber likes talking.
@slowkidsmedia4179Ай бұрын
You golden soul …super helpful 3 second video like and follow just for that
@Steve40458Ай бұрын
Thank You Very much
@MikesCarburetorАй бұрын
Welcome!
@SkularxАй бұрын
This helped me sooo much, thanks for being so cool
@MikesCarburetorАй бұрын
Glad to help.
@Hsmith6921Ай бұрын
I couldn't see what he was pointing out because he was holding the part away from the camera instead of towards the camera.
@meanmachinesgamingАй бұрын
So mines an 85 Chevrolet Impala with a 305 th2004r 2.41 rear gears and a posi off idle and a dead stop it's a slug it barely moves but if your in second gear or any other gear and it kicks down 1/2 gears it pulls like a freight train and can knock a house down but im thinking mine might be a combination of issues I'm going to try replacing the ignition module and coil just as a preventative measure and im doing a tune up But part throttle it can chirp the tires but full throttle nothing it has mid length headers full exhaust ive done the timing advance springs and seems to have woken the car up through the curve and a new air cleaner the car has 54,000km since new
@knuckle47Ай бұрын
So my guess is that you are rebuilding the new Chinese copy as a lesson in Marvel Schebler carb work? Love your work on the ‘56 T-bird carb and several others including the Aisan FJ40 too! 👏👏👏
@BlisterBangАй бұрын
My original vent rod has the notch at 7/16" . Should I use that, or the 1/4" you specify? Also, does the clip "sandwich" the vent actuating lever, or are the two holes of the clip next to each other?
@BlisterBangАй бұрын
Does a problem with this vent cause vapor lock? When my 1964 200-6 engine is warm or hot it is difficult to start. I've been told this is caused by vapor lock, and my vent rod is broken.
@MikesCarburetorАй бұрын
It's possible, but I would look at other things first. Look down the carburetor after turning off the hot engine. If gas is dribbling down the venturi then you have gas siphoning cause gas in the intake. www.carburetor-parts.com/autolite-1100-troubleshooting
@175southАй бұрын
God bless you sir❤!!!!!!!!!
@christopherlovell8406Ай бұрын
Hey, could you plz help me with my carb it's like it's not getting gas at idle it will stay running if I'm giving it gas
@MikesCarburetorАй бұрын
See this page for some ideas on what to check: www.carburetor-parts.com/mercerb-doesnt-want-to-idle.html
Пікірлер
75% of video is an empty pan and mounting bolts?
what year is this one from?
too many ad interuptions
They designed these carburators for Chevys to explode and scrap and melt down to make Dodges.
Thanks for the Holley 94 playlist. Lots of great information.
I kind of figured that was how the power valve worked but it is good to have it explained.
Thanks. That is great.
Great information
Saving this for later!
On the carb for my Mercruiser 3.0 there doesn't seem to be that little arm that hits the cam for pulloff. It just looks like it was made without it. Does that sound right? Im getting bogging about half way through thr throttle range but it smooths out if I just push passed it.
That is normal on some of the Mercarbs. The bogging is probably a dirty passage.
I need some advice if you don't mind. Have qjet gm350. Recently rebuilt. Runs great wot. Won't idle, idle fluctuating up and down, idling bout 900 to 1000. I've checked every thing. Not sure what to do. Thanks.
Please refer to this page for some ideas. Could be a lot of different things: www.carburetor-parts.com/quadrajet-rough-idle.html
Thank you so much for the help ver much appreciated
Hey Mike, great video! Do you know when you’ll be getting new Daytona 1904’s in stock? I have a 1904 off a Ford 144 inline 6, but I would like to put it onto a Ford 200 inline 6. Do you think a rebuild + swapping the main jet would be sufficient or should I look for a 1904 with a larger throttle blade and Venturi?
I think swapping the 1904 will work. Try one size bigger jet. I never know when we will get the new ones. We have them on order constantly. Order 200 and we get 100 kind of thing.
Thanks Mike! I have one of your rebuild kits on the shelf, I’ll freshen it up and toss a different jet in it and see how it does. I appreciate the advice!
Thank you !!!
Welcome!
@@MikesCarburetorI’ll be purchasing a 1904 from you real soon. Rebuilding my 1951 L110 International PU. Thanks for the tutorial.
Some great info in the video! It solved my problem! Thanks
Thank you for that. I appreciate the feedback
What is the difference between the Rodchester 22 and the rodchester 24 castings for the tbi systems
Sorry I wouldn't know that.
The Rochester 22 and Rochester 24 are different types of throttle body injection (TBI) systems, primarily used in General Motors vehicles. The differences between these two castings typically relate to the following aspects: Bore Size: The Rochester 22 often features a smaller bore size compared to the Rochester 24. The bore size affects the amount of air that can pass through the throttle body, which in turn influences the engine's airflow and power output. Flow Rate: Because of the difference in bore size, the Rochester 24 generally allows for a higher airflow rate, making it suitable for larger or higher-performance engines. Fuel Delivery: The fuel injectors used in these TBIs might differ in flow rates to match the air intake. The Rochester 24 might be paired with injectors that can deliver more fuel to accommodate the increased airflow. Application: The Rochester 22 is typically used in smaller engines, where a lower flow rate is sufficient. The Rochester 24, on the other hand, is used in larger or higher-performance engines that require more air and fuel. Mounting and Compatibility: There may also be differences in how these TBIs mount to the intake manifold or their compatibility with different engine models. Identification: The casting numbers or markings on the throttle bodies help identify the specific model. These numbers are usually cast into the body of the TBI unit and are used to distinguish between the Rochester 22 and Rochester 24. These differences are crucial when selecting a TBI system for a specific engine, as choosing the right one ensures proper fuel and air delivery, optimizing engine performance.
I'm working on a TSX-363 and no matter how many times I clean out the carb and all the jets, I can't get any fuel past the bowl. Floats have been adjusted within spec, and the entire fuel system has been cleaned and replaced new. Is it possible with these TSX models to take something like a TSX-33 and change out all the jets and internals to what is in the TSX-363? I cleaned the carb with acetone and Im guessing theres a deposit somewhere under the main jet thats causing a blockage.
Changing jets to another number would take a detailed build sheet for each carburetor. Unlikely to find such a thing. I would start by squirting spray carb cleaner through each passage to make sure they are clear. Also are you sure the float bowl is filling up. A new needle often sticks closed. Wiping off with mineral spirits might help that.
Mike I have a 2009 Mercrusier 5.0 . Every year on the first ,second and third times out, the engine starts fine ,idles fine , when you first push the throttle down somewhere between 2 to 3 thousand rpm the engine runs very rough. If you try to add more power it will stall almost out. After the engine boggs and wants to stall, you can slowly add more power, then after say 5 min it will run just fine for the rest of your current time out. Seems to clear itself as the boating season progresses. I tried Quick Clean and Seafoam to no avail. Any Thoughts?
I would take the carburetor apart and clean it. I'll bet you have dirt in the system. Could be junk in the gas tank also.
IS IT A GOOD CARB? OR SHOULD SWAP HOLLEY
I have never run a 4300 but from what I hear it is a bit troublesome.
@@MikesCarburetor thanks
i know when rebuilding these carbs they recomend zero-ing out the bleeder screws then turning them out about 1.5 turns as a starting point. BUT whats a zero-ed out stated of the choke adjustments look like? Context; i just bought a 76 F150 with 360/390 stock carb. it had a bad off idle stumble when i got it, so i decided to rebuild it. The FULE filter at the carb was overflowing with large grain rust, so i replaced it with a new one AND a see thru one pre pump.[note after just blowing out the old filter i could see thru it so i kept it] now with carb rebuilt im having trouble getting the choke to work AND also not keep high idle and slam into gear. if i get the idle slow enough then i have ot feather throttle for a minute on cold start cuz choke isnt right. Note; my heater tube from manifold is broke off like you mentioned., SO can i get this working for a spring/summer /fall truck w/o buying a warming tube or electric choke by just using the stock bracket to hold the htr core tubes against choke? How do i zero out the adjustment screws on choke to start getting it set up? ive already removed all unnecessary vac hoses and plugged everything off except brakes, dist and tranny. also need to plug warm tube hole like yuo mentioned
Forgot to mention, now with carb reinstalled, the stumble seemed to be gone at first but is coming back, not as bad as before. my prepump filter seems clean { i just did a comression test too and found why i have a miss, most cylinders are 95-110 but number 4 is 75-82ish] Will that affect the stumbble?
@@WilliamMunny-d8s A cylinder that low will cause all kinds of problems including a stumble.
@@WilliamMunny-d8s Getting the rust stuff probably means a dirty gas tank.
Nothing to zero on the choke. Place the thermostat onto the housing and then hold the throttle open a bit then twist the cap until the choke valve closes. Tighten it there.
Hi Mike, I'm rebuilding a carb like this. There was NOT a washer(stepped) on the diaghragm shaft. The Standard rebuild kit says to use a 1/16" flat washer from the kit. It is plastic and not sure if I need to or should put this in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also there is a metal washer in the kit that fits nicely but it is 1/8" thick.
1st test the pump action with some fluid in the bowl. Then add any metal washer to the top spring and test again. You may, or may not need it. It isn't clear because of the wear you have over 60 years.
Thank you sir! Your videos are excellent!
Appreciate it!
Are all the Rochester 2GC fast idle cams similar to one another? On my boat the cam is not stepped, but i see some that are. Is this a normal variant for boats?
I don't know if it is marine specific but yes the cam can be smooth or stepped.
Thank you
Hi can you do a video explaining all the vacuum lines please
Put a dab of grease on accelerator pump armature, polish shaft and dab grease on spring, polish nose of spring end cap.
Very helpful video!! I didn’t take pictures and this really helped me with re-assembly!!
oops!
Vary dark can't see it
The top section of that carb has a plug over that screw that you can pop out. Then you can adjust the metering rod by just removing the air filter housing. Did that to mine probably 30 years ago, still running in my old F250. I usually have to adjust it for emissions testing, and I added an air/fuel gauge to get it right. I also made a plug for that hole out of a vent valve seal. Just trimmed the edges so it fit in the hole.
Good feedback. Thanks
For the a/f idle screws is it clock wise leaning it and counter clockwise richening it?
counter clockwise lets more fuel/mixture in
I bought a rebuilt Q jet from rock auto #702 9207 and out of the box it ran very rich. Adjusting the idle mixture screws where no help. The float level was good. I installed a fuel pressure regulator and adjusted it down to the #2 and it ran better. I decided to take it a part and found that the power piston spring appears to be too short. It doesn't lift it at all. I looked for a carb kit that has the spring included ,wasn't able to find one. I found a number of springs in your store but I have no clue which one is correct. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video,thanks
Helpful video! I'm working on my new to me 64 Biscayne with the 230. Who ever messed with the carburetor last put the fast idle cam on backwards. It would stall out at operating temp.
I have thus carb, been struggling with it for some time. It's my first carb if that helps. But in the manual, it says "IMPORTANT: Before checking float level, raise float and allow it to fall; however, DO NOT force downward by hand" Does this mean: 1. I simply let it rest by itself and do the measuring and bending? Or 2. I lightly push down on the float taking care to not apply too much force and then take the measurement? The numbers are 9mm amd 24mm for me because I have the spring loaded one. So do I let it rest on its own upside down and measure 9, or do I lightly push down and measure 9?
Just let it rest by it's own weight;
Hi Mike I have Pontiac 455 3 Rochester middle carb what is normal set the 2 mixture screws?
starting out 1 1/2 turns then adjust after it is running and warmed up.
@@MikesCarburetor adjust with the help of a vacuum gage to highest vacuum ? Is that what I need ?
@@mrbakerskatz That is one way. More of a steady vacuum close to highest.
@@MikesCarburetor yes Thank you ! It’s been rebuilt Runs beautiful other than catches the high idle …requiring just the slightest tap to release = fuel economy
I am wondering how to remove the old leather plunger and installing the new blue one that came in the kit. watching the video you did not show how to do so. this is for a rochester bc one barrel,
You cannot replace a leather with a rubber. You must have a carb that has an aftermarket replacement. You will need to replace the entire pump. There are 2 depending on the size. www.carburetor-parts.com/rochester-b-bc-accelerator-pumps
Thank you, I have been working on a D-15 II for a couple years now and this was the best video i have seen for the carburetor.
Thanks, Mike! Great video, short, to the point, solved the problem! Thanks! Lost and Found Classics.
Hi there, so I'm working on one of these carbs. When I tipped mine over 2 check balls came out instead of a ball and weight. Either that or I lost the weight when I tipped this over on the bench. Could this carb have used a second check ball as the weight or am up a creek on getting this thing back into working order. Or do you guys have an extra check weight I can buy with a rebuild kit?
Yes, that isn't a problem.
From what I've been reading the standard float level is too high and will cause flooding. How much lower should it be set?
It should be set to the specs as provided in the instruction sheet of the kit.
Thanks
what about using a 5/64" drill bit to set the gap on the choke plate per the mercruiser service manual?
Yes, that works great.
Thank you for no stupid intro and straight into a video that helped me right when I needed it.
I know what you are saying. I hate watching videos where the youtuber likes talking.
You golden soul …super helpful 3 second video like and follow just for that
Thank You Very much
Welcome!
This helped me sooo much, thanks for being so cool
Glad to help.
I couldn't see what he was pointing out because he was holding the part away from the camera instead of towards the camera.
So mines an 85 Chevrolet Impala with a 305 th2004r 2.41 rear gears and a posi off idle and a dead stop it's a slug it barely moves but if your in second gear or any other gear and it kicks down 1/2 gears it pulls like a freight train and can knock a house down but im thinking mine might be a combination of issues I'm going to try replacing the ignition module and coil just as a preventative measure and im doing a tune up But part throttle it can chirp the tires but full throttle nothing it has mid length headers full exhaust ive done the timing advance springs and seems to have woken the car up through the curve and a new air cleaner the car has 54,000km since new
So my guess is that you are rebuilding the new Chinese copy as a lesson in Marvel Schebler carb work? Love your work on the ‘56 T-bird carb and several others including the Aisan FJ40 too! 👏👏👏
My original vent rod has the notch at 7/16" . Should I use that, or the 1/4" you specify? Also, does the clip "sandwich" the vent actuating lever, or are the two holes of the clip next to each other?
Does a problem with this vent cause vapor lock? When my 1964 200-6 engine is warm or hot it is difficult to start. I've been told this is caused by vapor lock, and my vent rod is broken.
It's possible, but I would look at other things first. Look down the carburetor after turning off the hot engine. If gas is dribbling down the venturi then you have gas siphoning cause gas in the intake. www.carburetor-parts.com/autolite-1100-troubleshooting
God bless you sir❤!!!!!!!!!
Hey, could you plz help me with my carb it's like it's not getting gas at idle it will stay running if I'm giving it gas
See this page for some ideas on what to check: www.carburetor-parts.com/mercerb-doesnt-want-to-idle.html