A guy in the Midwest USA who messes about with O gauge New York Central (on a budget) and on occasion, live steam. Also dabbles in 4mm GWR broad gauge.
FAQs:
Q. How old are you?
A. I was born at a very young age.
Q. Where do you live?
A. In a house
Q. What happened to the mogul?
A. I retired it to a display capacity for various reasons.
Q. Favorite tool?
A. My brass lined parallel jaw pliers.
Пікірлер
why didn’t you give me videographer credit
I don’t know you didn’t exactly film all of it
asparagus man
Nice. :)
An American consist would be fun for a Mogul.
Nice engine, running well
that is late 18th century
Appreciate a bit of help. I have just acquired a completely dismantled one. I have figured out how 90 percent of it goes together but I am stuck with the layout of the pipes on the reversing block. Not sure which is steam and which is exhaust or how it all connects up to the cylinders!. Rgds Graham Powell
Hello Graham, congrats on your acquisition. I’d very much like to help, but truth be told, I’m not really sure either as I’ve never had to dismantle mine that far.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 Thanks very much anyway. rgds
come back dougie
Bruh who is this
Wow shes looking great
Thanks she’s about 3 days from completion but the tender is about 2 months out from being done lol. How’s the Black 5?
@@douglasmcdermott2830 ahh yess my British 19D Im ashamed to say but i haven't touched it yet 😂 Im planning to complete the tender soon tho But alot has been going on in between So i cant carry on with it for now
Excellent
Yo Keith what’s good
Wow Youve done a great job
Thanks mate it’s not done yet but we are getting very close! The engine will be done by February and then I will start on the tender.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 fantastic My engine is coming along slowly Infact its still just 4 frames
spin spin spin
misleading title. i don’t see a bank or you running. please improve
Is that you driving?
Indeed it is, I was testing a new sprocket setup. We need to go a few teeth higher as I am still hitting the rev limiter.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 cool. It’s good to have interests and I see you have at least two.
Wow its really coming along
Are you gonna ad coupling rods?
Once the wheels arrive yes.
This is the first locomotive made in a gauge of 2 inches known to have been made since the 1940s, it’s still a long way off from completion but can now move itself.
Carlynne You should report and delete that comment That is a p website I clicked on the link once Long story short i got shouted at
@@laaity NEVER CLICK THOSE LINKS, those accounts are robots not real people.
FACE REVEAL
heckle heckle
If the audio had worked the title would have made a lot more sense.
Is this your 3 1/4 inch engine?
No it’s 2 inch gauge. I regret to say I don’t have a 3 1/4 inch gauge.
Btw, in process right now of filming big video on it, should be uploaded within 45 min.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 o wow Its a shame its not 3 But atleast you can ride on it
@@laaity yeah I suppose, video uploaded btw.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 thank you
Ive been working on usr today And im egsated
Sounds fun though, I’m probably equally exhausted, karting is nowhere near as easy as it looks.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 i know Me and my brother useto go to a go kart place Man it was fun But the bruises on my hips wernt Sadly he is gon to university So we dont do that anymore
@@laaity yes that problem with hips is well known, I’m surprised you had that problem in rental karts which are slower than what I’m driving. In the ones like mine we wear special vests over our suits to stop the seat from separating our ribs.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 yip Not even the softest pellow will help But those karts here are bledy fast One time i whent a lil to fast and i swong out of the track
@@laaity yes karts are pretty fast, mine has theoretical tools speed of 105 mph. If you spun out then you definitely driving on the limit, which is a good thing.
Is the problem fixed?
As far as I can tell yes, I tried your JB Weld tip and it seems to have worked. Why I didn’t think of it before idk, thanks though.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 its my pleasure Please show a vid of wat you did
@@laaity I’ll try and make one soon, school soon starting back up so I’ll have a lot less time tho.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 o i know how that feels Enjoy or atleast try to enjoy school
@@laaity I’ll make an attempt lol. What’s school like in South Africa? Down in Oklahoma (it’s a state in the USA, right above Texas) we have a pretty similar climate to you guys so summer isn’t very exciting. I hope your staying safe from all the violence in Johannesburg etc.
fake id
Awesome to see it pull those attractive coaches. You need to find the source from whence the steam leaketh.
its (the steaming pile of sauce) name is anxiety
first
Given the relatively low temp and low pressure these engines run at… I have seen an old Mamod with a steam pipe leak where the fellow sealed it with complete success with cleaning it well and smearing the leaking area with two part epoxy resin meant for higher temp use. I have lots of experience with such resin. You can get it in small packets in the glue aisles of places like Home Depot. However, I have not tried it on a steam pipe myself. I’d imagine that you’d have to wait the recommended time where it is fully cured before trying the engine. Your leak is away from the flame.
Such a handsome engine.
Thank you Terry! At the moment it’s on hold as I am currently scratch building a Gauge 2 engine out of brass plate, steel and loads of Meccano.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 now that sounds like a fun project!
Any time you get a thing like this run is a success. Any step toward better running is a success.
Wow
what goods can i bungle some
that’s a nice car
those paper towels though
i am an unstandard fuel
so that’s what a tomato looks like
No tomatoes were harmed during the filming of this video.
I don’t know why this popped into my head yesterday but I suddenly had a feeling I may have told you I use silicone plumbers tape. Eek! I meant teflon plumbers tape! It allows the threads to tighten a bit better and does not cause the join to resist being unjoined as much. Teflon tape is a bit better at live steam threaded piping connections than silicone.
that jug of water in the middle looks scrumdiddlydumptious how much would you take for it
where are its legs
since it’s running
would have looked better in a swamp
Respectfully, no.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 i disliked your comment
@@thirteengreasypans977 how sad, I thought you were for positive
Rad
Lit
Link to part 2:kzread.info/dash/bejne/mIaEmNeupNPXhKQ.html
Seems like an oil problem to me (i watched a couple of your other videos) my late 30's Mogul would only just pull it's self when i was using some of my dads old brandbright steam oil, tried some 1000 grade steam oil we use on 7 1/4 gauge locomotives and it was a dramatic change in performance so a bottle of 460 grade oil was purchased now it will happily haul 13 Hornby open wagons up a 1 in 100 grade or 4 Leeds bakelite Carriages or 6 Exley style carriage. I use bio-ethanol (99.999% ethanol), UK methylated spirits is actually 95% ethanol/water and bio-ethanol works out cheaper by the litre, works out to 1ml per minute on meths and ~0.75ml/min with bio-ethanol. here's a wee clip of a runaway I had recently imgur.com/a/fN3QT2W
Hi Munkey, Yes I agree with it probably being an oil problem. My order of Accucraft oil shipped yesterday, so should be here soon. Your engine looked very handsome in that short video btw.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 Thank you, it's actually quite scruffy up close, I thought that was an album link evidently not (is now).. anyhow there's a Bowman 300 video on my channel with a link to my Dad's channel which has a couple clips of some other Bassett Lowke steames, he recently got a Super Enterprise and we're waiting on a nice day to steam test it, runs great on air. By the way are you using the original safety valve?
@@munkeyWITHbeard well it looks nice form far away! Yes I am using the original safety valve as my engine was basically brand new new when I got it, having only been steam once.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 A rare that, actually recently saw a boxed unbuilt kit mogul for sale on ebay in Italy. I've replaced the rubber seal in my safety valves with a 7mm disc of 2mm thick viton sheet, the same stuff they use as piston rings on modern 16mm scale live steam locos, nitrile would work fine too, it seems to help keep a steady head of steam without needing to change the blowing off pressure
Awesome! Great to see the engine having a go! 👍🏻🙂
Thanks Terry! It still can’t pull my coaches though, but I think this is as good as I can get it. Mind you this was the first time it was running really well, and I couldn’t test the coaches as one bogie decided to disassemble itself at a very inopportune moment. I am hoping to expand my fleet of wagons by another two, and get a brake van. These way a lot less than the coaches, which a pressed steel.
@@douglasmcdermott2830 I think you’ll get it even better. Did that run happen with still no replacement lubricator? If so, and if you cannot find a replacement, get a smaller one that will fit the space and get someone very good at silver soldering to make the connections. Someone nearby in the steam community will be able to do it I’m sure. Watching your engine run, and listening to it, I think you probably have a good runner. Some 460 steam oil will better seal the cylinders. To bad we didn’t live closer. I agree about having a few Bassett Lowke friends in North America.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Cobi yes the lubricator was refitted. Here’s a thread on a forum about the rebuild. www.tapatalk.com/groups/modelsteam/a-seriously-troubled-bassett-lowke-mogul-t110715.html
@@douglasmcdermott2830 interesting! I just read everything in the blog. A couple things popped out... first of all, my B-L’s motion runs very freely when cold. Virtually the same as when hot. Most live steam engines need to ‘bed in.’ That is, the working parts need to wear together. In fact, Roundhouse Engineering runs each of their engines four hours in forward and four hours in reverse before sending to the customer. Bassett-Lowke engines are simpler but should still be broken in. You mentioned it was steamed once or so, correct? It’s possible it will improve with running. Mine runs like mad even with dents in the boiler and evidence of rods and links having been bent back in place from accidents no doubt at some point in its 94 or so years. I use light machine oil on all the bearings, etc. You are right not to fill the boiler quite to the amount in original instructions. I’d still try Accucraft steam oil if I were you. It will either improve running, or it won’t. It certainly won’t hurt. Can you measure the distance of your burner arm from the bottom of your boiler? Also, does it run better in reverse? The reason I mention it is that some B-L 2-6-0 locos have had the slit for the reversing lever a teeny bit off-centre and it held the lever from going as full as it should in one direction or the other. Probably not a problem with your engine. But I thought I’d mention it. Again, I wish I lived closer. I’d love to see your engine. Another thing I noticed is that you are in high school. Is that correct? If so good for you! An early mechanical interest is always handy. You learn to operate and fix things. I am a communications and stakeholder relations professional but in my home life an early interest in old mechanical things grew an interest that means I can generally now fix about anything. I learned from older experiences people. I did not have a live steam engine in high school. I wanted one though. Instead I had some fine scale model trains. Well, fine for the early 1980’s. Kato N scale was good then too, even if they were not equipped to onboard DCC. Lol I also tinkered a lot with old antique electric trains to bring them back to life. If we hope to continue an interest in preserving real live steam engines as part of our history we cannot without smart and capable young people that follow behind the older generations. I’m glad to know you. You remind me a bit of myself at your age.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Cobi thank you Terry for the high praise! Yes I am indeed in high school, I have been messing about with live steam engines for roughly 4 years now. I’ve only been messing about with live steam locomotives for almost 2 years though. My first one was a repainted Bowman 234 (the big 4-4-0 bowman) which I got really lucky on eBay with and got it for dirt cheap. I never steamed it though. After I had replaced the safety valve spring I had an attempt at steaming, but the burner was leaking so dad and I stoped the test. The burner was fixed though. However about 2 week later dad gave me my mogul for my birthday, to my utter surprise and jubilation. So the bowman got shelved, as work was now focused on the mogul, and the bowman didn’t represent the greatest time in my life either. About a year ago I sold it to buy a clockwork Bing for Bassett Lowke LNWR George the Fifth, to replace my mogul which we though was unfixable at the time. Sadly the spring broke in the Bing engine soon after acquisition, as she was made in 1912. That did spur me on with trying to fix the mogul though. You mentioned the Accucraft oil. I have run heavier weight oil in my engine before, with very bad results. The oil was some older Wilesco stuff, which they made roughly as thick as what you can buy from Ministeam.com. It was pretty bad, wouldn’t leave the lubricator, just sit there and turn in some awful looking slime feature that I would then have to remove by hand. Cleaning out the lubricator on a BL mogul is NOT something you ever want to do. The new Wilesco oil is much better, as you have seen in the video. I have misgivings about the Accucraft oil, as this is the best I’ve ever had the engine running, so I don’t want to mess up the lubrication system with heavier weight oil that’s it shown it doesn’t like.
Running pretty good now! Did it end up being a fuel issue?
I’m fairly certain Nick, I’m burning grain alcohol now. An update on the Mamod forum should be coming soon.
Swag
Drip
Looks better with less leaks. :) I use cheap silicone plumbers tape to wrap tightly around the threads of my steam line joints, or if pressed fitted I essentially still to the same. Works great for leaking.
What seals does this engine have in the joints?