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This will be a combination of work from the RattyFab LLC shop, my personal builds, and more.
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@RogueFabrication
P.s. I have no clue what I'm doing, so constructive criticism is very welcome.
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My R/T was broken from the factory and sold it to me like thar. I was told that it was normal and after 20k. I went out on me and was told that it's my fault, but they had to fix it for me under warranty anyway. Then after they fixed it. I definitely noticed the difference. It's no longer making this hissing sound when you pressed on it. If you tell me I can't drive a manual. I have driven manual vehicles since I was 10 years old in the philippines. Of course, I didn't have a license then. I decided to get my license after my accident 😅😅😅. But IMO, the clutch on this car is not good. Next time, I'll replace it myself with an aftermarket parts. I think the problem that's causing this is the shifter to.
Damn … I want a Softail …
They're pretty nice, but nothing compares to these big beasts
What about an older Road King alignment, 2004
We offer a kit for the older FL models that require 2 links. They are special order so you will need to contract us prior to ordering. The top link is adjusted in the same manner. Typically the top link is removed and the lower is adjusted first, insuring the drive line is aligned and square. Then the top link is used to perform the same type of alignment procedures as the newer models.
A lot of talking and not much showing and doing
Thanks for your input. I hope this information helped. Not everything can be shown, especially when you are filming, talking, working all at once. Have a great day!
Is there a link for the part's thanks
www.rattyfab.com/shop
does this prevent possible death wobble ?
I can't say it will certainly prevent it. But our part along with a proper alignment and worn parts check should do the trick.
My hellcat challengers clutch just started slipping was wondering what you would recommend as far as repair/upgrade it also any cost information for jobs like this would be very helpful thank you!
I will have to put together a price list. We went with the MCLEOD clutch kit and fresh slave/throwout. It was a perfect fit and really simple install. The clutch kit was around $1500 if I'm correct.
Thank you Sir! Big help! 💪
Thanks. I will tried it this things. I changed rear and front tyre. Then i install the wheels. Then i go test drive, when i speed up and i release the handlebar ( no hand driving ) , the bike pull to the left .i measures the size between the the rear shock screw hole. The right side is longer than left side. In which directions should i align the engine ? Left or right side ? Thank you for your help.
If the right side is longer, you need to adjust the engine so the top goes "left". Play with the adjustment until you find which direction works and then get it in line. Also be sure to check for worn items like neck bearings, mounts, isolators, and bushings.
@rattyfab thanks for your help. you wrote very informative stuff. I've called 4-5 mechanics who service harleys, but no one has said anything similar.
Its unfortunate that many shops or mechanics simply don't have this info. It's either not taught/learned through experience... or they just fail to see how important it is.
What are some of the signs while riding that your bike might need aligned?
You can get wobbles when cornering, or just very poor handling. You can also get speed wobbles or have trouble keeping it straight.
Manufacturers who have played it safe from the war era until now have not innovated with old-fashioned gas tanks and only two-cylinder engines which cause the entire frame to vibrate like a diesel engine, but the manufacturers make big profits.
These are rubber mounted engines. While I agree a 4 cylinder may be smoother and make more power stock, there's nothing like the torque in these v twins. You should ride a newer Harley. You might like it.
Stop talking and show how to and where install it. So much words for nothing.
Sorry you feel that way. We have a video just for that. This one is simply what it is.
hello. please help. how adjust properly this upper stabilizator link? the service manual dont proper insruction.
Harley doesn't have an oem adjustable link on 2009+ bikes. Ours is adjustable. Check out our other videos for more information.
@@rattyfab i have a 98 fxdl. Oem link is adjustable. But the services manual dont proper explanation how adjusting this upper mount link.
@@laszlokovacs6014 watch the alignment help video. It displays and talks about a touring bike but it is nearly an identical process. OEM service procedures also show how to do them. Your tank must be removed.
@@rattyfab thanks, i watching.
Hi to adjust the front shocks to align the axle what do you adjust please I am not sure 3:50 Thanks peter
You adjust the forks inside the triple tree clamps. You would first check with the axle to see if they are aligned. If not, keep one tight as your "reference" side. Loosen the other until measurements match AND the axle can slide freely between the 2 sides. Then proceed to tighten the loose side and torque to spec. Double check the axle is still free when tightened.
@@rattyfab thank you I was thinking that but wasn’t 100% sure
@@petercrane2328 happy to help and clarify anything.
This is great stuff to visit over the winter if your bike is currently riding ok. Totally agree with you on knowing each and every bushing and bearing is in proper condition and every bolt is tight. Amazing how many people just gas up and ride thousands of miles never checking anything😂 thank you for your time helping us elevate❤
Thank you for that! As a rider myself, I feel this is vital to a quality ride. I don't understand how people can go so long and never check anything.
Just makes sense! I'm building a S&S 129ci from 107ci. In other words, the forward engine mount was not designed for my new engine! And doesn't account for motor mount degradation over time on stock engines. 💡!!! SKWID Rider’s Shipmate ET1(SS/SW/MTS) US Navy, Ret. Killmonger: 2020 Fat Boy (Stage II+ by Blockhead) SilverBAK: 2021 Road Glide (S&S 129ci/Fueling Race Kit by Rider’s Shipmate)
Exactly! The OEM part is barely designed for the OEM application.
Just ordered! Dude! I'm in the middle of my first engine build, and I have a list of questions that I hunt answers down for all the time. When I removed my engine mount, I didn't see any adjustability and instantly thought about that guy on the highway, white tee and wobbles his way into two 360's. I dropped my oil pan, as per Fueling's instructions and couldn't believe the lack of precision on the stock rear, as I installed the Alloy Art Cush. I thought I was addressing the rudimentary set up with my Legend's Revo Arc...until you explained the difference between preload and alignment. I'm not sure how to align my engine with your product, but when you explained the mount use to be adjustable...stopped me in my tracks. Manufacturers change their products because of bean 🫘 counters, materials, end user complaints, or regulations. I didn't know I had an engine mount until it was pointed out to me last year. And it was presented to me as a hinge point. Coming from submarines, rubber mounts have a shelf life, and degradation happens over time. The time period between initial degradation and replacement is where having adjustability is necessary, not optional. Subscribed 🔔 2FD brother SKWID Rider’s Shipmate ET1(SS/SW/MTS) US Navy, Ret. Killmonger: 2020 Fat Boy (Stage II+ by Blockhead) SilverBAK: 2021 Road Glide (S&S 129ci/Fueling Race Kit by Rider’s Shipmate)
Good to know, thank you...
You're welcome
Are you losing up the pivot shaft, isolators and other engine mounts when you do this? Do you have a torque sequence if so? Thanks
We are NOT loosening any of those. The mounts are rubber and the idea is to move them inside of the isolators. Loosening will cause things to move where they shouldn't.
Video starts at 3:40
Most of the process starts then, but there is important info throughout the entire video. Thanks!
Yes , unfortunately some people have no idea about the bike they are riding. Whenever I buy a bike to keep, I buy the factory manual. They are not expensive and can save you a lot of money. First thing to know about the rear wheel is the brake caliper will lock up because the pads aren't sliding on the tabs.They need some grease, not to much mind you, and about every couple of thousand miles.While you are at it check your alignment. Loosen axel a little, make sure your adjusters are equal, check the tension of your belt, turn the wheel till the belt is at its tightest point on the bottom, use a measuring tape and measure from a point on the swingarm to the centre of the axle, when they are equal, nipp up the axle bolt and the adjusters slowly together, while checking the alignment and the tension of the belt. Turn the wheel a few times and bring it back to the tightest point, making sure it is not over tight. About ten mills up and down. Then you should be able to tighten the axle bolt firmly, not over tight and nipp up the adjusters. Pump the rear brake and turn the wheel, make sure everything is freeing up, tyres have the right pressure and you should be good to go.
It's the sad truth. Most people just want to modify them and know nothing of how they function.
Thank you for the information 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Looking for a link on your website, for the one you're holding in this video. I don't see it for sale?
We no longer have the aluminum/polished versions. Our 4130 links are in stock and available on the website for multiple models.
A buddy told Me after explaining a handling issue that it is the manufacturing issue . I am thinking that the handle bars are to blame possibly bent .
The manufacturer is using subpar parts for production purposes. They're focusing on selling bikes, not making them perfect. Our link, a check for worn parts, and an alignment will do wonders for handling issues.
Could be 580 different things. Tire air. Rear wheel alignment. Bad beaings. Front weel spacers used wrong. Weight loaded to one side..primary
It very well could be, which is why we always recommend checking for worn parts and checking your bike over. There are many components that can create or exaggerate an issue. An alignment is a great place to start, and puts you hands on to check all other parts.
Super informative. Thanks so much.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
This is great information, I just did legends on my 13’ roadking. They didn’t match up and I was wondering if there was a way to make it line up. I’ll definitely be ordering your linkage.
I'm glad you got this info in time! That's a big deal on these bikes. Grab a link and get that bad boy aligned. Then tune the suspension and really enjoy the bike all over again.
Right on! Jacked I couldn’t make it this year. My bike will be down for the next few weeks 😢
Don't worry, my bike is down too lol
Great video
Thank you. You guys put on a hell of a show?
Great information. I just built that black 04 SG from the frame up that I posted on your Performance Baggers ONLY post and it's aligned but when I put the Street Glide fairing on, it front end wobbles slightly over 80mph (I typically cruise @100mph) I'm gonna strip it back down and redo it. I have Sputhe stabilizers now since I just learned about yours, I will try yours on the next build. More shall be revealed. Thx again for takin the time to explain how to do this properly.
Appreciate it! I'm glad this helps in any way. Those street glides suffer from that head shake due to the fairing design. Unfortunately. Seems to be a very common issue.
Great information! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great info and something I need to do. On my 95 FLH I have an adjuster by the front motor mount also. What does that one adjust and how or what to measure to see if that is in alignment?
The FLH/FL models had 2, one upper and one lower. They both play a part in alignment due to the single point mount design in the front. There are some service procedures floating around from Harley on the details. Ill try to get that info and make it available as well.
On the early year touring models with a single motor mount the front lower turn buckle is for alignment of the horizontal alignment between the front and rear wheel there are procedures in manual and on line on how to perform this procedure. This video is explaining how to check the vertical Alignment of the engine,transmission and the rear swing arm as they are interconnected. I use a magnetic torpedo level that has several bubbles. Get bike on jack take tension of rear wheel remove lower shock mount bolts and just loosen upper shock mount bolts. Attach magnetic base to rear rotor in in vertical position providing you perform brake disc run out and determine that rotor is not warped. Adjust upper turn buckle until bubble rests in the center of the sight glass. This tells you that the adjustment of the rear wheel is set to 90 degrees. Using a tape measure is good, and this video stated there are several ways to perform this procedure, I find it easier to use my stated procedure this way you are not trying to locate center hole position with a naked eye. This video provides good insight for the DIYer and the required procedures. Again this is my humble opinion.
@@DevilDog59 Thanks for that additional info! Its always good to have more insight. Our process follows the OEM procedures that were eliminated. While I also like using angle gauges, they can cause some confusion as well, especially if the table or bike isn't perfectly vertical. The length between shock mounts is the vital measurement. Thanks for watching, and again, THANK YOU for the additional info. It's great to see others trying to spread useful information for others to use!
Did you have to space the clutch at all or was it a direct fit to the dowels?
It was direct fit
Did you have to space the clutch at all or was it a direct fit to the dowels?
Direct fit.
Right on, not only do I want this for my self I am going to buy it for every els I ride with as soon as I know where ti goes. Great Video.
These are typically located at the front cylinder area going from a bracket on the front head to the left side of the frame.
ما اطرب البشر غير الشفر
🤘🇺🇲
Why on earth would you replace a clutch at 5K miles ? 😮
It had a hard life haha
My front fork on my 2023 Tri-Glide is out of adjustment and the dealer tells me that they can't adjust it. When I ride strait down the road, my handles are a few degrees to the right.
I can't speak much for the tri glides. They are an entirely different beast. Many of them have leveling features to help with road crown yeah?
Do they have exhaust kit for the V6?
I believe just the v8
Lookin good man!
Thank you!!
Nice. Our Corolla 2001 is the same theory, stock bolt on parts for endurance race.
Thats the way to go. Making it simple and easy to replace items!
Only in black?
The 4130 version only comes in black Cerakote. The aluminum versions are a limited production run. We'll do another run of those later this year. I have raw aluminum ones available that can be painted or coated to your desired color.
Can't wait to see how this project progresses 👍🏻
You and me both!
This build is so cool
Thank you. More coming on it very soon!
G'day from nsw Australia just found your channel and subbed.
Thanks for the sub! G'day mate!!
Jeez, can the music be any louder. great vid!
Agreed! I'm finally learning how to turn it down ha. Thank you!!!
Great video with a lot of good info!
Thank you. I really appreciate that!
🦅🦅🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you!!!
How much do you charge to do this ? On a 2016 Scat Pack?
Sorry for the late reply. I just saw you email as well. I'll send you a reply today.
Sounds amazing can’t wait to get one for my caprice
You won't regret. Super easy install and an awesome sound.
Can i install it on a caprice royle 2009 ?
@@zerodown4230 I don't have that information. Check out Solo Performances website or give them a shout to check fitment.
My guy 🙌🏽🐐
Thank you homie!
I have the same exhaust on my G8. Big cam, stall, 3.45’s, etc. It’s great.
Hell yeah! Now we're talking. My buddy wants to do some more upgrades in the future. Fingers crossed for big cam and intake next!