Пікірлер

• 
  @cicerojunior7014 сағат бұрын

  tutorial works perfectly, congratulations kzread.infoeAIhmF6Gyws

• 
  @IsaakO-sf2rd4 күн бұрын

  Hey can you give me the link to the screws holding down the motor to the 4 way connector?

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  @brianbenson30914 күн бұрын

  @@IsaakO-sf2rd as long as it is 2 1/2’’ or longer, any screw will fit. (5.5-8 cm) I’d go with it being no wider than a #8 so it fits in holes. I have no idea if you are in the US but if you are, I use these a lot when securing motors. www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-9-x-3-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-Coarse-Thread-Construction-Screw-1-lb-Box-3GCS1/204959258

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  @IsaakO-sf2rd4 күн бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 thank you I appreciate it

• 
  @brianbenson309114 күн бұрын

  Couple ways to add pipes to motors kzread.info/dash/bejne/lJpslayGnZeYeMo.htmlsi=BNyOGllKw0PF8nxA kzread.info/dash/bejne/nWiauMOdkqWrZ8Y.htmlsi=9sCKX3xYgsd-vqfT

• 
  @conraddickinson2418 күн бұрын

  Looks awesome just a question though. How do you get the mouth to move in time with a speech recording?

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  @brianbenson309117 күн бұрын

  Using the Jawduino build. The audio goes straight to the arduino. I have the build here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/YqaKvLaBctLOgtI.htmlsi=bMbgJ83FoRvIrLqb

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  @brianbenson309117 күн бұрын

  Here’s a better sample using the Jawduino build. kzread.info/dash/bejne/pKx7s6h8XdmygdI.htmlsi=fnFaj31OKxfDxbiG

• 
  @dhall18523 күн бұрын

  Just found your channel great video . Subscribed

• 
  @susanowen170925 күн бұрын

  It looks great, however I'd be concerned about the skull breaking/tearing where it is screwed to the L-bracket.

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  @brianbenson309125 күн бұрын

  Understandable. I’m sure there is a shelf life. When I use this build on Halloween I’ll be putting some glue there most likely. All I need is for it to last one night!

• 
  @GDub1958Ай бұрын

  Hey this is G_Dub again, really cool stuff here. Do you create your own background music? I would bet you are also a musician! I heard a scary little lick being sung repeatedly on the previous video of yours and it seemed original but still really professionally done. Original back ground music is another niche that has so much potential, KZread is so very very strict, right?!#@* Opinion coming: Oh I feel sometime with zombies blues and purples make a death and rotting impression and when tied together with a light pink creates a swollen infected look too! Sorry it just had to be said! I like the use of your microwave turn table motors too.I am into arduino, raspberry pi, esp32 micro-processors, and most recently have immersed myself into becoming really good with 3D design because I want to get more into designs for plugs for silicone props... i do not have any examples yet, because I have never had the need to create anything, YET? Keep up the good work!

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  I used music from the iMovie app BUT I do use my own music occasionally (I have a KZread channel for my music too). I’m still learning how to paint zombies and rot, it’s still a learning process for me, so I learn a lot on KZread. I appreciate the info and feedback! Make some stuff on KZread and share with the world my friend!

• 
  @rosannasantiago193Ай бұрын

  Thank you Brian! Just discovered your videos and am learning so much! Quick question; how tall have you gone with the pvc or pex pipe? I want to make a prop of a moon with a flying witch around it. I got the idea from another youtuber but he used metal pipe with reindeer motor. Thanks again and keep those videos coming 😂

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  These motors can’t handle much weight, so even a long pvc pipe may be too much. The witch would have to be super light and use like a wrapping paper tube as broom maybe. I’ll think about this and see if it is possible or not.

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  @rosannasantiago19329 күн бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 thanks! I'm making a paper mache witchy cat that will fly on a small broom. It might weight 1.5 pounds at most. My vision is to have maybe a 3 foot pipe coming through the paper mache moon with the cat flying around it.

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  @brianbenson309129 күн бұрын

  @@rosannasantiago193 can you upload a video on your channel of what you made and your idea and put link in the reply? What I have pictured may be different what you are saying. I’m picturing like the full moon and the cat on a broom sorta hovering around moon going in circles? Like an armature attached on motor that goes beyond circumference of the moon that is attached to broom?

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  @rosannasantiago19329 күн бұрын

  kzread.info/dash/bejne/lHeYmsWGp8-5fs4.htmlsi=PZB0_FVfsUUG-4ho

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  @rosannasantiago19329 күн бұрын

  I think I added the video. 😂

• 
  @GDub1958Ай бұрын

  I think the quick unexpected movements create more reaction from the audience and gets the adrenalin flowing more ... (involvement). Arms and hands reaching out towards me is terrifying , ugh oh yes the eye dangling is a must! I have no clue what happens to the eye if it gets smashed does it just explode, my brain can tell me the eye that has been torn out prolly looks like what you made, right? Realistic results are the scariest!

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  Thanks for the input! I made the dangling eye one from a cheap mask and dollar store flower parts. The video of the mask is here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gZWfw7GOZMivdaQ.htmlsi=iRCU71colOHpBAnx

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  @Tus7rsppufzfupf7363Ай бұрын

  Uao que zobie

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  @sinner13halloweenfiend76Ай бұрын

  Can you just use pvc for all of it instead of the red n blue plastic things ?

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  Yes. Just need to secure it on motor. Here’s a video I did with other ways to attach. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lJpslayGnZeYeMo.htmlsi=RhoqRkNa--x0HizU

• 
  @mikelesh3881Ай бұрын

  The motors seem to survive just wondering how long if they get stopped w the screws over and over if itll burn em out

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  Good question. I’ve had those for a couple years now and use only during builds and Halloween. So I have no idea if it affects the motor life. I don’t even know the normal life of them. Some of them get hot and quit right away and some go on and on…

• 
  @hopelessnerd6677Ай бұрын

  Well, i had planned to get some sleep tonight

• 
  @alanesq1Ай бұрын

  I think you would find a 3d printer really handy for this type of thing. I was very sceptical of their usefulness myself for a long time suspecting I would spend far longer trying to get a print to actually work than just making it myself but now I have one I would hate to be without it, you can usually find adaptors like this ready designed for download but once you get the hang of the software (which is I must took me a while) to design your own you can just draw what you want and 30mins later its ready for you to use 🙂

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  I 100% agree with you that it would benefit me, especially all that I do for Halloween. However, I started making these videos for those who want to save money, especially if you only have a few motors. But, I might look into a printer. So share a link if you can on a good starter one.

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  @alanesq1Ай бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 Hi, I bought a used custom one myself which happened to come up locally so I wouldn't be a good person to recommend which one to buy. I personally would just look for a cheap one which is popular so there should be lots of support, upgrades etc. available.

• 
  @peezytheproducer116Ай бұрын

  The 48-58 rpm actually did 59 I counted it lol

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  The motors are pretty mischievous

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  @johnwhitley9209Ай бұрын

  I don’t want to bust your balls but it seems like while you were heat-molding the tube, you might just heat-mold your own adapter too? Here’s where you school me though. I’ve seen that motor “chassis”, but I don’t know what it is. I think “clock motor” when I see it, because I have seen it, but was like 1RPM and even less, as I recall.

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  Ya I’m still trying to find the best way to attach pipes since I use them the most. Creating a universal adapter that could be used for either pipe or axles or whatever would be best, but I find stuff out on the fly. I’m always looking for better ways for sure. Also, I had to look up “chassis” lol, because really I don’t know much. All I can say on that part is all synchronous motors I get are designed that way. I either screw them to wood to keep them down or on pvc pipes if making like a body frame. Hope I answered somewhat in the ballpark?

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  @johnwhitley9209Ай бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 LOL, yeah "chassis" prolly a bad description, maybe form factor? IDK. I know that motor as a (very low RPM) drive for intermittent lubrication (which makes it really dependable). Its just a "servo" for you right? Wouldn't matter what voltage or ac/dc?

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  All the motors I buy are AC with standard 120v plugs. When I do use servos they are usually small 5v ones.

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  @canadaplease7981Ай бұрын

  You need a 3D printer! lol

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  I’m too cheap! lol. If you have a link for a 3-D printer attachment for these, please share! Someone with one of those would appreciate it.

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  @canadaplease7981Ай бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 I don't know if there is one specifically for that purpose, but its an incredibly easy part to model, even for a complete beginner. If you build custom things, you can't go wrong by going down that road!

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  @unliving_ball_of_gasАй бұрын

  I needed this 5 months ago for my sister's cat feeder project..

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  @user-rb8sl4sg2mАй бұрын

  Now your turning heads😅

• 
  @MrJoerTАй бұрын

  This is one of the best spinning skull channels I found this week.

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  @Sandwich2ndAccАй бұрын

  Ah yes spinning skulls

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  @alexplorerАй бұрын

  They say idle hands are the Devil's workshop, but you seem to keep pretty busy. As always, excellent and helpful work!

• 
  @lynellreed1906Ай бұрын

  This visual helps a lot when deciding between speeds. Thank you.

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  @cicerojunior70Ай бұрын

  Thank you, it worked fine - kzread.info8vptG_u7jQo

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  @brianbenson3091Ай бұрын

  Wow I like your setup. Where you get those LED eyes?

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  @cicerojunior70Ай бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 I had to do it manually because the max7219 matrix was bigger than the eye socket . kzread.info/dash/bejne/oGSmt8N9mJqnpNY.html

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  @cicerojunior7016 күн бұрын

  @@brianbenson3091 I manually make the LED matrix and replace it on a board with MAX7219 because this LED matrix does not fit into the skull used. Your tutorial is excellent.

• 
  @rolsenrolsen2 ай бұрын

  Great walkthrough! would you please share a link to the power supply? thanks

• 
  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  I power up the board with 6v 2a power supply. www.spirithalloween.com/product/6v-2-0a-adapter/26365.uts a.co/d/hH1lNzG

• 
  @miguel2day2 ай бұрын

  Super helpful video. Thank you for explaining this.

• 
  @joemunley57352 ай бұрын

  Used the link but they didn’t reverse and went really slow despite being the same. Will try another brand and see

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  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  The speed will determine the rpm so 2-3 is the slowest and my range is between 2-60rpm, just depends what I buy. They should reverse when any hard friction disrupts turning. Here are some other links of three different brands. a.co/d/aHIQWb9 uxcell AC 100-127V 15-18R/Min... www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0FVHM7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share CHANCS Synchronous Electric Motor... www.amazon.com/dp/B012W0AMYE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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  @joemunley57352 ай бұрын

  Thank you. Turns out I wasn’t applying enough resistance but tried again after your comment. Thanks again

• 
  @ez2automate2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the code!

• 
  @ez2automate2 ай бұрын

  Brian, Do you have the code for this project? Thanks

• 
  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  /*********************************************************** 08-14-2016 Mike North This is a little proof of concept to make a servo move in sync with audio. *******************/ #include "SoftRcPulseOut.h" #define TEST_PIN 11 //pin 11 set to ground will kick off the servo sweep test int audio_value = 0; long lastMsg = 0; long sleepWindow = 300000; //if 5 minutes go by with no signal, then put the servos to bed SoftRcPulseOut servo; volatile boolean servosEnabled = false; volatile boolean ledsOn = true; volatile unsigned long currentTime = 0; volatile unsigned long lastLEDtime = 0; unsigned long resetWait = 120000; //servos sleep if not changed within this time frame (120 secs) void setup() { set_minmax(); pinMode(TEST_PIN,INPUT); //pin 11 will be digitalWrite(TEST_PIN,HIGH); //assign pull-up resistor } void loop() { servo_test(); audio_updates(); //read sample from audio input and apply average to buffer if(servosEnabled) { action(); //servos are handled in the action loop SoftRcPulseOut::refresh(); if((millis() - lastMsg) > sleepWindow) detach_servos(); } } void attach_servos() { // attach the pin to the servo object servo.attach(2); servosEnabled = true; } void detach_servos() { // detach the servo objects servo.detach(); servosEnabled = false; } void servo_test() { if(digitalRead(TEST_PIN) == HIGH) return; attach_servos(); SoftRcPulseOut::refresh(); for(int i = 0; i < 360;i++) { if(i < 180) audio_value = i; else audio_value = 359 - i; action(); for(int i = 0; i < 10; i++) { delay(1); SoftRcPulseOut::refresh(); } } detach_servos(); } void audio_updates() { audio_value = 0; if(analogRead(A0) < 341) audio_value += 50; if(analogRead(A1) < 341) audio_value += 50; if(analogRead(A2) < 341) audio_value += 50; if(audio_value > 0) { lastMsg = millis(); //save the time stamp from when we last had some action if(!servosEnabled)attach_servos(); } } void action() { if (!servosEnabled) attach_servos(); servo.write(audio_value); SoftRcPulseOut::refresh(); } void set_minmax() { //set the first parameter in the following functions to a number between 0 and 180. //I used 92 and 72 in my tests to give about 20 degrees of motion. //You may swap the large and small numbers to reverse direction. //Just play with them, upload the code, then ground pin 11 to run the sweep test. // Be sure to only play with these numbers while the jaw linkage is disconnected, // otherwise, you risk hitting mechanical limits and damaging your linkage or servo! servo.setMinimumPulse(map(62,0,180,512,2400)); servo.setMaximumPulse(map(120,0,180,512,2400));

• 
  @haywardhaunter26202 ай бұрын

  It looks and sounds like you're suggesting putting an extra voltage source (like the batteries or a DC power adapter) in parallel a with the power output of the Arduino. That would be a bad arrangement that'll likely shorten the life of your Arduino board and the batteries. You said it provides 8 volts, which would be true if you connected the power supplies in series. But that might not solve your problem and it's still possibly going to overtax the voltage regulator on the Uno board. Most hobby servos are designed to work at approximately 6V. Many list specs for running them at 4.8V and 6V. If you don't have enough power, then you probably aren't able to source enough current and/or the servo is too small for the job. A typical hobby servo might draw something on the order of 100 mA on average, but it can peak above 1 A when driven under load. The +5V output pin on the Arduino can provide a limited amount of current. Details vary by board, and some clones use different power management designs that are fine for general use but don't meet the specs of the official boards. You can probably power a single, lightly loaded servo from the Arduino's +5V output. (Even if you can, there can still be reasons to consider using a more capable power supply.) If you want to drive a larger servo, a servo that's most produce a lot of torque, or more than one servo (at a time), you're going to need more current. A better solution would be to power the servo directly from your 6V power adapter. Connect the power and ground wires from the servo directly to the positive and negative outputs of the power adapter. Connect the signal wire to the GPIO pin on the Arduino. If you power the Arduino from a separate supply (like the USB or a second power adapter), then you **must** connect the 6V ground (negative) to the Arduino's ground. The servo is going to compare the signal voltage to the ground from its power supply, so you need both grounds to be at the same potential. If you want to power the Arduino from the same 6V supply, you'll need a tee that gives your power supply two outputs in parallel. In that case, keep in mind that the total current rating of the supply must exceed the current needed by the servo plus the current needed by the Arduino. (Powering an Uno from a 6V supply will usually work, though it's recommended to use at least 7 volts.)

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  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  Appreciate the info. I don’t know about any of that and just do what makes it work the way I need it to. But, I definitely don’t want to ruin a board. I’ll take your information gladly. Just thought using the breadboard would help, because the 5v wasn’t allowing the movement with weight but the 7 something I had connected to breadboard did. I’m proficient in replacing light bulbs, at the least! Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.

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  @mocontext32802 ай бұрын

  Thanks for your pro-human choice of terminology. It was refreshing to hear "really small" drill bit instead of "1.25 mili-vanilimeters." By keeping the minutia out of the way it was easier to focus on the goal.

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  @MiguelOliveira-hh1ue2 ай бұрын

  Yes

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  @alexplorer2 ай бұрын

  Obviously the dangling eyeball better conveys the motion, but everything ultimately depends on the lighting. For example, if you have monochromatic lighting, certain colors are going to pop. Same with UV. The dangling eyeball might work better on a prop that sways, like a shambling zombie, so that it's more of a pendulum. You probably have enough motion going on with this prop that any mask is fine.

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  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  Appreciate your feedback and makes total sense. I’ll use the hanging eyeball mask on a build that has light movements or swaying.

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  @X115Megaman2 ай бұрын

  Is there a way to get it to work with a remote control? I’m trying to get something to turn but only a little bit on command

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  @brianbenson30912 ай бұрын

  I never thought about doing that but maybe a remote plug like this: a.co/d/hkv6tVZ

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  @chance19863 ай бұрын

  Well done. Effective use of a single motor. Terror on a budget. I like it.

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  @KELLYTOOLZ3 ай бұрын

  Cool!!!

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  @brianbenson30914 ай бұрын

  Wow! It worked well enough to move it. What type of motor you using to blow a breaker???!! Must be big enough to move a real corpse.

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  @MisterRat5964 ай бұрын

  cool, did your motor work properly, because i bought one and it my blew my breaker lol 😆

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  @scaresandsparks4 ай бұрын

  Nice video. We have a lot in common :-)

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  @brianbenson30914 ай бұрын

  I see that!

• 
  @budmonk28195 ай бұрын

  Not sure it's terrifying. It looks like an epileptic episode.

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  @brianbenson30915 ай бұрын

  Best to know the signs kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKybvKx6ZpWbgbQ.htmlsi=xchutR8HQmsvLm2w

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  @brianbenson30915 ай бұрын

  Troubleshooting video for common issues with Jawduino kzread.info/dash/bejne/oayDl6Wdkca_mrQ.htmlsi=MIH8VNoYRAal0TGj

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  @NotRandylentsaltdefinite-tv4ku5 ай бұрын

  U should be a vendor at transworld

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  @brianbenson30915 ай бұрын

  I appreciate the compliment!

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  @EvanVanderStoep5 ай бұрын

  Neat, looks great!

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  @alexplorer5 ай бұрын

  Very cool. You lucked out with the length of the rod. If you do another project like this and fail to get the right movement, try it with a turnbuckle. You can "tune" it to the length that gives you the right animation, and then substitute it for a better linkage in the final version. Saves you from having drill a dozen holes in search of the elusive sweet spot. Another trick I like is the use of springs. There's this genius guy in England named Paul Jones who seemingly just makes things up as he goes, and it's always amazing. He has put springs into several of his animatronics, and it often gives the character an organic feel instead of the clockwork sorts of motion we usually end up with using rigid mechanical parts. Search "DIY Animated slapping skeleton rough guide on how to make(Slappy)" to find one of his tutorials, and I'm sure you'll be hooked.

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  @brianbenson30915 ай бұрын

  I really am winging it most of the time. One of the reasons why I love the KZread community is finding new ways to make builds easier. Never thought about a turnbuckle, I didn’t even know what it looked like. Thanks for that great info, I’m gonna get some turnbuckles now. And I’ll check out that DIY.

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  @alexplorer5 ай бұрын

  As requested, here are a few suggestions for you and anyone embarking on this sort of project: -Drill press table attachment. Makes it easy to set up repeatable holes because there's an adjustable fence with a stop block on it so the tubing ends up in the same position every time. WEN makes one for $40, or look around at the dozens (hundreds?) of KZread tutorials on building your own. -Chop saw. (Unless I missed it, you didn't say/show what you used, so adding this here.) It's useful if you're cutting anything stronger than aluminum. A miter saw will cut aluminum. -Miter saw workbench. I made my own so that the height of the middle section (i.e., where the tool sits) can be adjusted. That means I can drop in other tools like the drill press (or router table, band saw, etc.). The advantage is you can have the work piece resting on the tabletop rather than clamping it and having it hanging in the air. -Linkage software. It's free; just search for "rectorsquid" and you'll find it. Saves a lot of guesswork (or prototyping and experimenting in the real world), and it's just plain fun to play around with. For example, you can make a scissor mech that curls as it extends, almost like a scorpion's tail. How? Try offsetting the center bolt holes. Lots of fun applications and comes with models to edit so you aren't starting from scratch. -To keep costs down, buy packs of 100 of anything standard, and the per-unit cost drops to the same as that of 3x 4-packs. If you're handy, you'll the same parts again on other projects. I use 1/4"-20 bolts for loads of things (e.g., they fit in T-tracks, so they're always going to have applications for wood-working jigs). I also invested in wingnuts so I can prototype faster (i.e., throw it together, test it, then disassemble and cannibalize for the final build). If you just use one or two popular sizes of bolts, then you can get all the things associated with just that size: lock nuts, washers of several diameters, threaded knobs (e.g., for woodworking hold-downs), threaded inserts, etc. -Look for a metal supply shop nearby. They charge far less than big-box stores, and often they have deals on shorter lengths that are leftovers (i.e., scraps) from custom orders. That may even save you from making a few cuts. Great tutorial! Excellent builds. Looking forward to more.

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  @brianbenson30915 ай бұрын

  Thanks for all that great info! I’ll definitely use your information for future builds. We all want to find the cheapest and easiest way to build props. I used a jigsaw to cut the metal pieces that were clamped to a vice but hindsight I could’ve bought a metal cutting blade for my miter saw. People like you help people like me do better. Appreciate your input.

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  @WORLD-OF-MERLIN3 ай бұрын

  In place of multiple washers to fill up the space; have you thought of spacers?

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  @brianbenson30913 ай бұрын

  @@WORLD-OF-MERLIN​​⁠never thought of that but what a great idea. I will definitely give it a try. Thanks!

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  @ericthorsell75155 ай бұрын

  The motor will automatically reverse direction? I want to upgrade my heavy metal snowman band so it looks like they're head banging. If they do this would be perfect!!!

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  @scaresandsparks6 ай бұрын

  Nice.

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  @herbertj93876 ай бұрын

  Promo_SM 😋

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  @danilaalpatov13747 ай бұрын

  Just what i needed

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  @jaimepalomino79337 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much for this tutorial. I was able to complete my jawduino with this great video. The only issue I have been having is how to configure the audio. I am currently using an mp3 player connected to the audio jack that seems to work, except that I can figure out how to also play the audio on a speaker. I tried using an audio splitter, but that isn't working. What do you recommend?

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  @brianbenson30917 ай бұрын

  @jaimepalomino7933 the audio splitters seem to never work. In this video, the sound going to the Jawduino is my headphone jack and the sound is coming out of my computer speakers. What I used for my last Halloween show (I uploaded a video of it), was a device that I had the sound coming from, go into a cheap mixer (less than $80) and then had the headphone jack output from mixer to Jawduino and the line output to a speaker. Does that make sense? Here’s another idea, have mp3 go into an aux port on a stereo. Use another audio cable to plug into the headphone output and the other end to Jawduino. Now you should get sound from speakers and headphones. That is if your radio doesn’t cut out once headphones are plugged in. Mine doesn’t cut out. Or if speakers are detachable, just detach one speaker and use that line to Jawduino.

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  @jaimepalomino79337 ай бұрын

  ⁠This makes sense. Thank you