You guessed it! Here on Make Stuff Nation, I make stuff. A wise man once told me, if you want to learn how to do something, go to a library and get a book. I've taken that to heart and try to learn something new every day. Topics include woodworking, cooking, aviation, gardening, sailing, blacksmithing, and more.
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Where did you order your baring's at?
McMaster-Carr
Very useful very helpful. Very very great. Save me lots of money.
If you were to use a jack would the piece of the frame in front of the oil pan be a good spot?
great restoration !!! I've been looking for the quick change plate for mine, haven't had much luck, checked eBay, KZread and google... if you have any other resources for part finding, it would be greatly appreciated! great job on videoing and explanation of process...Thanks
I've had the best luck on eBay, but sometimes you have to wait a few months to find what you're looking for. You can set up search alerts which is helpful.
Have you heard if using Boeshield T-9 for lubricating and protecting your ways and other lathe parts? A machinist told me is the way to do it so dust and other stuff don’t stick to the oil like way oil.
I have not heard of it. Thank you. Excellent suggestion.
I am nearing the completion of a restoration of my Atlas 10", a model QC42. While yours looks much different in the power head area, the functions are all the same as mine. I had not thought about having a methodical testing of each function as you have done here, and it really does make a lot of sense to do it. I've saved a link to this video on my Desktop labeled "Excellent Delta Lathe Startup Procedure after Restoration" and will follow your steps. THANK YOU very much!
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for the support!
Why does everyone else different oil? Some say these cars have something about a flat roller cam and they use 15-40 some use ams oil zrod
Million different ways to skin that cat. It is a flat lifter. You definitely need an oil with zinc in it or a zinc additive
@@MakeStuffNation I need to do an oil change soon what do you recommend?
Thanks for making your video short, descriptive and easy to follow.
Thank you. Check out the video for my version 2 which has a much better and simpler design.
Cool vintage lathe! Did you make those red belts?
Thank you! Yes, they are 1/2-in link belts. You can pick them up on Amazon or other stores and adjust them to any length you need.
Awesome job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow, first of you should have heated up the teapot first. You didn’t steep the tea very long, looked very weak. Are you sure you had enough sugar lol.
Thanks for the tips!
When he took the plug out “he had to stop yelling bang cuz it was scaring the neighbors”
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My 2017 F150 has sync 3 but no backup camera, I was able to find a used oem handle with camera and harness, but after a closer look at my grey plug it only has 2 wires. Meaning my truck is not prewired for the camera.
I have a 2015 f 150 xlt lart. can the fact.back up camera be relocated I had to install a power h/c lift it block the camera view 😢😂
Great video. Thanks for the complete process.
Glad it was helpful!
I checked out your video as I was working on exact same apron. After I watched I went down and inspected my Carriage handwheel bushing. Mine was identical to yours, no lube hole. I suspect that incorrect parts were used on assembly line, maybe they ran out of proper bearings. I drilled my new one also. Thanks for pointing this out.
wild! I thought it was just mine. Glad I was able to help
Followed everything exactly. No camera detected. DTC error. Any idea where I might of gone wrong?
hey make stuff nation....thanks for the video. helped a lot....I have a question though....i did all the process since I change my 4in screen and all works. the only thing missing is the zoom function that doesnt work when it used to. I checked through the spreadsheets but cant find anything to fix this. Any idea for me ? thanks again
I also have this issue. Everything works great but the "+" zoom button does nothing. Let me know if you find a solution.
could use JB weld to secure the mig tip to the cast iron in order to keep it aligned correctly... Great build..
Good tip! Thanks!
@makestuffnation is there a code to get the tailgate handle led to light up? I wired my harness everything worked great! Just need my light to work.
Great video. I was after some hints on building rub rails and this was exactly what I was after.
Thanks! I hope your project goes well.
Thank you just what we need.The on lest thing is youns yankee talk to fast for laid back folk like me.. Again Thankyou
Thanks! I made an even better version that is linked at the end of the video.
Thank you for doing this series. I just bought my first real lathe, an Atlas QC-42 which is a 10" lathe. It has the quick change gears like yours does. Original motor is trying to start, and I believe the capacitor is bad on it. It came with the original cast iron stand and the two wooden shelves. All of the handles on the controls on the cross-slide vise are broken (Zamak?) and a few gears need replacing. I hope I'm able to find the parts, either used or reproduction. Or else I'll have to sell the parts off of it.
I was able to find most of the parts I need on eBay. Sometimes they are listed under the wrong part number so you have to be careful.
Thank you!
will was a waste of my time. would of been nice explain the gear box and how it comes aprt so on. o will .
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300 bucks and about 10 hours no back up camera. I did the door key pad though. Good luck!
Use pipe dope for gas fittings not tape
Thanks for the suggestion
Assisti todo o projeto, parabéns pela construção e pela qualidade dos vídeos. Se puder produza um documentando sobre as soluções dadas. Obrigado.
My issue I'm trying to figure out is why does pulling the pin to use the back gear do absolutely nothing to free up the belt pulleys. I've got an old Atlas 618...
Do you mean to loosen them, Like if you want to change the ratio or they won't turn it all? If they're not turning at all and the pin is pulled, something is frozen. It is possible that the pulley cone is frozen to the shaft. It should rotate freely with the pin pulled.
I love your video and I am inspired. Can you let me know if your drill bit is vitrex. 102756 and which hand drill I should buy for it. Be really grateful.
I used a Bosch brands drill bit but honestly any diamond glass and tile drill bit should work. Also any hand drill should work. If the drill has hammer mode, do not use that. It will break your plates. There are links in the video description to the drill bits I used.
Just found your video and i have to say, smart easy and good design
Thanks!
Very irritating music
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For a 20/25 feet long & 5/6 feet wide boat what's the ideal size of the sail should be? Long upward & wide sideways. Give measurements in feet kindly
click.....
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primitiv job
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The backup lines overlay requires 2 pins shorted on the camera side. Not sure which. It's not a FORScan module.
Maybe on different model years. I was able to get it activated with forscan without shorting any pins.
If you go to your local auto parts store you should be able to buy a big drip pan for less than $10. If you find the kind i bought you will find it a perfect fit between the inside of the legs/feet of the legs. You should also find it wide enough to extend well behind and in front of the lathe. The beauty part is it can be slid out from under the machine and easily cleaned of swarf and chips. Plus, it costs a fraction of what one to totally cover the top of the bench does and you are not left with bending the edges up to give it a lip. I hope you sized it so you can slide a 7 drawer Kennedy under the machine on the bottom of the bench.
Excellent suggestions! Thank you for supporting the channel
You probably already know it, but the chuck is at least a third larger in diameter than that machine was ever designed for. If it has not already damaged the spindle bearings, it will if you continue using it. But again, I suspect you already know that.
Thank you! I did not know that. I have two smaller chucks that I intend to use with the lathe. Luckily the bearings were in good condition when I got to that point in the restoration. Not sure why they had such a huge chuck on it.
@MakeStuffNation WOW, then I am glad I shared that with you. I have a twin to your machine with all the original Atlas tooling it came with. If you want, I can get measurements off my chucks if that would help. The 4 jaw original is a significantly larger diameter than the 3 jaw these machines were originally equipped with. I suspect that chuck likely came on something like a Southbend heavy 10" When you are ready to use it, get a quick change tool post for it, you will be glad you did. Unless you are wealthy and can afford the best, Aloris, or Dorian, Look at Phase II brand. Import and half the cost of the good brands. Also, if $ is tight the next decision you will have is piston type post, or wedge. Wedge is better, but costs more for guys with shallow pockets like me. I had to settle for the cheaper piston, but have never been disappointed with the piston. Next decision is size of post. Ideally an AXA would be the first choice. I opted for a BXA post, which absolutely looks a bit large on the machine, but in use works just fine with no issues I have noticed. I chose the BXA specifically for one reason only. I can use a scissors type knurling attachment from the tool holder. AXA posts you cannot do that with as unless you build one, you cannot buy a scissor type knurling attachment to fit an AXA tool holder. Don't use a pressure type knurling tool holder on an Atlas machine. If you do, don't do it very often, or you will destroy the brass nut on the cross slide. Atlas made them that way for use with a lantern type pressure knurler, but simply put, those machines are not heavy enough to do much knurling on with that kind of holder without damaging that nut. Pressure type knurling tool are fine for heavier machines like South Bend, Logan, Etc. Just NOT Atlas.
On the apron assembly there’s a part that has what I’ll call pipe cleaners to distribute oil , I didn’t see that on yours
Interesting. I didn't see that anywhere in the parts diagram for this model. The oil passages I found in the apron all appear to be working as designed though.
@@MakeStuffNation the pipe cleaners wick the oil and direct it to gears below. Could be later models I suppose. I actually bought my lathe with the 3 phase motor in it , luckily I hade a converter I found at a thrift store for 25 bucks .
I have the 12” commercial version with the metal base . They actually function well . I have a 3 phase motor and converter so speeds hasn’t been an issue for me and surface finish is good .the issue most talk about is speed for threading is to fast my converter took care of that problem.
Cool! Maybe I will do a motor swap sometime in the future. Yes, the carriage feed is a little fast for a nice surface finish.
It seems like the belt would need to be installed on the pully cone before assembly. I must be missing something.
You are correct if you are using standard belts but I use link belts. They run quieter and are easily replaced without disassembling anything.
Very good !
Thanks a lot!
Awesome. This will save me about $300
Thanks. I hope your project goes well.
@@MakeStuffNation I'm deleting it since I know there's a gbody windshield with the antenna built in
1st
Thanks for your support!
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Where do you get the 4scan software???
There is a link in the video description (4scan tutorial)
really enjoying watching these restoration videos. I'm preparing to start restoring my late grandfathers lathe in a few weeks. It has been used heavily and will continue to be used a lot in the future.
That's awesome! I wish you the best of luck!
The parts are now 130% more expensive since the time of this video.
such is life
Nice work painting and assembling. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
how did the pvc steam box work out for you? I'm in the rpocess of replacing the woodwork on my 14' rowboat. I have some pvc down spout and I was thinking of using it to steam my rails. just discovered you using pvc. my stuff is larger diameter.
The PVC worked just fine but you need to make sure it's supported. It gets very flexible and floppy when it is heated by the steam (just like the wood).
BET GRINDING MANUVEL ADACHMEND
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In your first video you had mentioned you would link the video explaining what gears are needed to lower the feed speed. Can you link that here?
Of course! I haven't made my video yet, but this gentleman explains it well in his video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ooppttKGp8jOl8o.htmlsi=HY6YkMRbzTUMvcwj Good luck and thanks for the support!