Hi there! Thanks for stopping by. Have you ever looked at an image and thought "I wish my photos would look like that." - If so, then I hope to help to provide some practical advice to help you get you a little bit closer. I shot my first first commercial commission in 2011 and my first wedding in 2012. I take family portraits, commercial head shots, cast images for shows, pictures at gigs, and other events. I travel a lot and take images of the places I travel to overseas and in the UK, but my favourite place in the world is Cornwall.
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Seeing those converging lines of that beautiful piece of architecture in Seville was hard for me. You need to start using tilt shift lines and get rid of the distortion. Good video though, enjoyed it.
Standing joke with my wife is this same "little walk" she suggested we did on a hot summers day a couple of years back. No supplies or water which was dumb. Knackered by the end and sank 2 pints of lime and soda in the Tinner's Arms in a couple of minutes before I could turn to thoughts of beer and food! Turns out it is a "somewhat challenging" walk - though with spectacular scenery.
I agree with everything you said, sorry for the late arrival to this video. I find these views echoed so much by photographer's myself included its good to get out more.
Another very entertaining video with great pictures. As I know every inch of this trail and have walked it many times, I can only confirm that it is very challenging but also breathtakingly beautiful. Looking forward to being back soon. Danke Keith!
Many thanks, Mark. I’m sure you’ll probably be retracing my steps this summer! Best, Keith!
Just returned from a seven day trip to Cornwall( second time im there) and loved it soo much! Can't wait to see more from you because I really love this part of England and I will surely return one day!
Thanks, Stefan. It is my favourite place in the world and hope to post from here again soon
Perfect transition in the beginning. You could teach those tik-tok kids a thing or two haha. That was a great photography session and a fun challenge with those “restrictions”. I always enjoy your monochrome shots and the first gate image was fantastic. Good stuff!
Many thanks, Kevin. I was surprised the transition worked as I forgot to mark the spot I was standing in the suit so had to guess where to stand when I had changed. I think placing restrictions on a shoot tends to focus my mind on the strengths of a particular focal length or film simulation. Hope you’re well. Best, Keith
Good tips for shooting in theaters, but can i give you one turn that background music off.
Thanks for the feedback. Fair enough on the backing track! 👍
oh and aperture stick to 4 is wide enough since you using auto iso it willimprove your focus
Going wider with primes means I can save iso going beyond what I would consider reasonable. YMMV
Use auto ISO and 200 is not enough many times need to go to 500shutter speed dancers are fast
Cheers!! Dancers are certainly fast
Very helpful! Thank you
Hello, thank you for these tips! Do you use tripod when shooting a speaker on the stage ?
Hi there. I never use a tripod at a show
Thank you keith. This series was very helpful and clear as a beginner
Glad you found it useful, Daniel. And thanks for taking the time to send feedback. =)
Great content. Easy to understand. Thank you so much keith!
You're very welcome!
Loved this, made a nice change to include a project with photography vlog that was different from F-stops depth of field shutter speeds etc. Nice to see what you get up to as a photographer. Thanks
Thanks, Peter. It was a sp coal day at the University for sure.
I shoot with a Canon 80D, and when I do theater/dance photography I shoot in Shutter Priority so I can set the shutter speed, especially in dance, and will then dial in some exposure compensation. I've tried shooting in full manual mode, but unless the stage lights are bright and don't change, rarely does that happen, then there's no way I can shoot in manual and get a good picture.
Hi Operatigger. Sorry for taking a minute to get back to you. Setting an acceptable shutter and letting the camera do the rest is a great way to get decent, sharp shots when the lights are changing. And imo, sharp is far better than noisy (plus you can fix noise, you can't easily fix unsharp images). I've just bought a camera with IBIS so I look forward to seeing whether than changes my theatre shooting strategies.
Great walkthrough. Although I'm not currently on the Fuji system (may be making a purchase in the near future) there's a lot of fantastic information and recommendations that I took from this one for my current setup. Good stuff, Keith. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with the X-T5.
Thanks for your ever positive comments and kind remarks. Much appreciated.
Looking forward to mages from this camera. Should allow you to crop if needed and still have a large file.
Many thanks, Robert. Looking forward to getting out with it.
Thought you may enjoy this video.By Sean Tucker on his youtube site. Title of video ' The incredible photography I found in a fish and chip shop'. Located in Whitby North Yorkshire. Outstanding photographs during the 1800's by Frank Meadow Sutcliff. BTW, the fish and chip shop is Mr. Chips.
Hi Robert. I'll give it a look. I recently listened to a podcast with Sean Tucker and so know about some of his approach.
Great video, thanks for the thoughts you shared. I really like your London pictures. Greetings from Germany.
Many thanks!! Much appreciated. I'm glad you like the London pictures.
Hi Keith. Your video inspired me to be a photo tourist in my hometown, Vancouver, Canada. I just returned from Alaska taking photos with one camera, one lens & one film sim (X-T20, Kamlan 21mm, Vivid). I returned home to seeing tourists taking photos of things & places I had ignored & thought to be mundane. I will try to see my hometown thru a new set of eyes.
Hi there - I don't know the 21mm lens, but the set up for Alaska sounds awesome. Love to see those images. Vancouver is a wonderful city (I've visited three times), and I've certainly done the tourist thing there in Stanley Park and Granville Island and took evening bbqs on Kitsalano Beach (I visited UBC for a couple of weeks in 2007). I also went over to Vancouver Island to Ucluelet which was wonderful. I love to come back again some time.
I actually discovered your channel through your Lightroom tutorials. Really helped to get my feet under me with editing. I could see an updated version being valuable as well. Really enjoyed the concept of the “Hometown Tourist” in this video as well. Nice to make the effort to see the same things with a fresh perspective.
Thanks Kevin!! Hope you’re well. I will consider a new Version of the Lightroom for newbie ls video
Thanks for your video. What about WB? Also AF in single shot or continuous mode?
I generally shoot in single shot, except when I know there is going to be a jump coming up and I maybe shoot in continuous for that. Regarding WB, I generally set a Kelvin value that suits the set, but I always shoot in TAW so I can adjust the balance in post. As colours can change so much during a show, I will set an appropriate WB for each lighting set up in post and apply that to all the images with that set up so that the set looks consistent overall.
Can the dividers be configured to hold a 200-600 or 150-600 with camera mounted?
It would, of course, depend on the size of the body and lenses, but yes, the dividers are all removable and can be repositioned. Best, Keith
Love the monochrome picture
Thanks, Ray. I did consider making them all mono, but that was against the idea for what I was doing. As it was, this shot shouted "MONO!" so I did! Hope you and the family are well.
Great video. Really like the soft color.
Thank you Robert! I'm using Astia/Soft profile on my RAW shots more and more.
Hi Keith do you have any advice to deal with LED lighting/ banding. I shoot theatre and dance so need to keep shutter speed high and have tried R62 anti flicker features but its tricky to get the digital high quality backdrops completely band free.
Hi Steve - this is a great question, and, I'm afraid, I really don't have a definitive answer for you. The company I work with uses a regular projector for backdrops (from the ceiling of the auditorium - not back projections, I think). Their stage lights are a mix of LED and regular bulb. I have occasionally gotten banding in the frame which makes the image largely unusable so it's an issue. Firstly, make sure you review (chimp) your images often to check for this problem. You don't want to get home and find that all your images are unusable. Secondly, I have found that this largely occurs if the stage is really dark and I'm having to push ISO and reduce shutters below 1/100s. In this situations, I change one setting on the camera at a time to work out what might solve the problem. However, I am sort of resigned that if it is really dark on the stage that I probably won't get a shot. Having seen the growth of LED panels as part of the set on stage in professional West End stages recently (e.g. Back to the Future, American in Paris) I guess that they may well increasingly end up in semi-pro, and am dram shows and then I'll try to work out what works in those situations. Best, Keith
Thank you for making this series!!!
Hey there - Thanks for commenting. I'm glad you like the series, and hope you found it useful
Do we use strobe lights ?
Hi there - I have never used strobes or flash guns or fill lights in any of my theatre shoots. Firstly, as this would not be acceptable to the theatre company, and secondly, the lighting director has made decisions about how they want the stage to look both in terms of amount of light, focus on particular performers, and colour palette. A flash or strobe would change all that. So I trying to use the settings on the camera to capture the action as well as I can using high ISOs, wide apertures, and reasonably fast shutters (1/250s ideally). So it's a great question, but no, I don't use strobes.
@@KeithMasonPhotography Thank you 🙏
Nice video and love your photo’s…although you havent found a love for the 35mm you should love what it has produced for you. I’ve got the 35mm too and am also loving its 18mm brother which is a bit wider again…
Many thanks for your feedback about the pictures taken. I have just released a video where I take out the 18mm for a run. I think the photos are largely better in this video, but for both, I am trying to get more out of the lens, and more out of me creatively. Once I better know the capabilities of the lenses, I, of course, more likely to use them in the future.
This was neat. Always impressed with how well monochrome shots can show detail. Even motivated me to do a little research on Somoan Barkcloth to bring myself up to speed. Good stuff!
Hi Kevin. Thanks for your comments. I agree that it is in the mono final image that the effect of the indentations and patterns are properly revealed. If only I was better at the crafting part, it might have been a really nice finished result.
Not bad.
Thanks Robert. The idea was certainly better than the execution, but sometimes it's good to get out of your comfort zone!
Just watched it again, it makes me happy.
Thanks Amy!!! I'm glad you like it. It shows a few days just kicking back by myself in my favourite place.
@@KeithMasonPhotography This is her better half, but Amy liked it too.
@yemrot1 John - you’re a good man, despite what they say!!
@@KeithMasonPhotography 😀
A good photo is made by the photographer... and not the camera... the X-T1 is more than enough. A good meal is made by the cook and not the pan! But how we allow ourselves to be manipulated by the industry! I never will sell my two X-T1 bodies. Greetings from a swiss living in the Caribbean ❤
Hi Roland - Sorry for the delay. I agree with you. It's the photographer not the camera, and I love my X-T20. Have fun in the Caribbean!!
@@KeithMasonPhotographyKeith you are a great photographer, you know how to put the images in the right light. Thank you for the great shots!
Excellent. I really like those sea scapes where the sea and horizon just blend together. Consider a short tutoral on your vertical and horizontal camera movement during exposure. Those are interesting.
Hi Robert - Sorry for the delay!! (I've been rubbish at keeping up!). I'll certainly keep your suggestion in mind next time I'm in a suitable location. For now, you might check out my "Abstract Landscape" video as it has a bit of a discussion about ICM in there.
Simply inspiring. My solo hikes with my camera are not as successful. I am inspired to slow down and look more. Thank you.
Hi there - Sorry for the delay!! I wonder if you consider yourself a hiking photographer, or photographing hiker?? The hiker is always looking forward and keen to get to make progress to the next point. As a hiking photographer, I try to focus on trying to take some good photos so slowing down, occasionally looking behind you is what I try to do. Most importantly, having my camera close to hand means I am thinking about photography all the time. I try to force myself, when I see a potential shot, to put down my pack, get out the tripod and give my photography a chance to work. Best of luck!!
Great photos and video Keith. There is beauty all around if you know how to look for it and capture it. Like the somewhat sombre mood too. Do you edit your photos or are these SOOC? And what camera system/model camera did you capture these photos with?
Thanks for your kind words. All the images were shot on either an FujiX-T20 with a Fuji 27mm f/2.8 prime lens or my Fuji X-T3 with either the 18-55mm or 55-200mm zooms. The images were shot with the Astia/soft film simulation but saved as RAW and I developed a Lightroom preset for this set which brought up the shadows a little, and reduced the texture and saturation a little
@@KeithMasonPhotography Great cameras. I have the XT-20 with Fuji 27mm and 18-55mm kit lens too. And many other Fuji lenses (more than I need if I am honest). Also have the XT-1 too which is an awesome camera and got me started in the Fujifilm ecosystem. I haven’t gotten to the stage of editing my photos, except for cropping, where necessary. That is where I need to spend more time and invest in good software like LR or Capture One. In the last year or so I have gotten also into Full Frame DSLRs and have the Canon 5D Classic and 6D Mk1. Really liking the photos I am taking with these cameras and Canon colours these cameras produce. Looking forward to your next video and greetings from Australia.
Greetings from the UK and sorry for the delay! Sounds like you have a great set of equipment. I have the 5dmkii but it collects dust as it's too darn heavy to haul around - but it does make beautiful images! Some small / minor edits can really bring the potential out of a good sooc image so some investing some time there would be a great. I have an introduction course on lightroom (Classic) on my channel. It's a bit old, but the basics haven't changed. Simply raising the shadows a bit, adding some contrast, and a small vignette can really make a big difference in the final image. Best, Keith
@@KeithMasonPhotography Thanks for the tips Keith. Heard good things about the 5dmkii too. Maybe, when you can, take it out for a few shots here and there - you may get hooked into using it again more frequently. Feel like you and Martin Castein should do a photography video together. You both offer great practical advice and always worthwhile watching your YT videos.
I use the same peak design setup with a 5dmkiv with 70-200 f/2.8 and the clip with a 6Dmkii and 24-105 f/4 so it does work with a heavy set
Good to know!!! Thanks for sharing this info
Tank you for this video! I’ve been shooting contemporary ballet and ballet for more than a decade. Mostly dress rehearsals for the various companies that I have worked or volunteered with. Dress rehearsals allow the photographer great access without disturbing either audience or performers. All of my work has been with Sonys and I am currently using their A1. My go-to lens for many years was the Sony 24-70 GM and is now the Tamron 28-75. The f2.8 zoom lens allows me good latitude for composition. My settings are generally 1/400 f2.8-3.2 and auto-ISO from 100-6400, and occasionally up to as far as ISO 10,000. Exposure is Sony’s H+ (preserve highlights) AND exposure comp at -2/3 (for Caucasian foreheads and overhead spots). As you suggest, you can fix noise in post, but you can’t fix blur. In post, I start by culling my typical 1500-2000 images down to 100 or so, then sort by ISO and batch process like images for noise. And crop, adjust white balance, and process normally.
Hi Steven. I thought I had replied to your very interesting comment a while ago, but I guess YT must have lost my post. Your settings sound excellent and the 2.8 lens is great for work in darker spaces. The editing down to around 100 images can be a lot of work. I struggle between selecting the best images which I know the company will like and use, and making sure all the performers are in at least a few shots
@@KeithMasonPhotography Yes, I think the 'culling' takes more time than either the photography or the final post-processing. The first step I do is to import images using the "Embedded and Sidecar" previews. That makes looking at them in the LR Library module as fast as it was in Photo Mechanic (uses the camera jpg as the preview). I used to go through my images and mark "reject" on the ones I didn't like. But realized that with 1,500-2,000 images, it was faster to do it the other way, "Pick" the ones that I would consider keeping by giving them two stars. Then ruthlessly delete the others. Julienne Kost then provided the next step. Go through them again and choose the marginal ones to delete by changing them to one-stars - and delete those. That usually gets me down to under 200. Finally, Lightroom has great view options to do final selections - Grid, Survey and Compare modes. When I get down to the last 100 or so, I build 1:1 previews, then deNoise as I noted above. Lots of work, but I've gotten faster over the years and enjoy sharing the final product.
Great video! Tides aren’t something I deal with too much in my area, but it’s incredible how much they can change not only the composition, but also how you approach getting the shot. Well done!
Thanks for watching Kevin. I end up with wet feet more often than I would prefer!!!
The XF27mm is good enough that Fuji has it on the list lenses suitable for the 40MP sensor
That’s good to know as I think about upgrading
@@KeithMasonPhotography I wish the 27mm was f2 rather than f2.8 but then it wouldn’t be as pancake as it is perhaps. I have thought about replacing it with the XF23mm f2. There are no doubt sharper lenses in the XF range but it does make Fuji’s published list as suitable for the high definition 40mp sensors. As did the XF23mm f2, the 35mm f2 and 50mm f2 but NOT the old XF18mm f2 and NOT the old kit zoom 18-55mm f2.8-4. Do a Google search and you’ll find the list.
I’ll have to check the list as I think my zooms are not suited (10-24mm, 18-55mm (as you mention), and the 55-200mm). I also have the old 18mm, the 35mm 1.4, and the Viltrox 56mm 1.4. Lots of additional cost to move up to the X-T5
@@KeithMasonPhotography I’m not convinced there’s a need to go to 40mp APS-C. I have a full frame 36MP Pentax and while it’s nice to have some extra pixels to crop if needed I prefer not to and the benefits are mainly in the low noise of the larger sensor and the shallower depth of field that can be achieved with my f1.8 primes
Fabulous video and beautiful images.
Thanks so much, Jim. Your support is very much appreciated
Wales is a gem 💎 ✨️, gorgeous country !! 💜🥁🐉🎤🎶🏴💞
Thank you!
@0:08 yeah…. Because… money
Fair enough!
Man...my recipe is 1/640, f/4, ISO 6400 as a start point and adjust from there. That often works fine. I adjust the ISO before anything else, and try to understand how far I can push that considering the relationship between my camera (a Nikon D750) and my editing software (Lightroom). Granted, I am writing this 3 years after the fact, and noise reduction has changed a lot since this video was made, but it was true back then as well. I would rather have a slightly noisy theater photo than a blurry or out of focus one.
Hi Kevin. Sorry it’s taken me ages to reply. Those settings sound good, although whether, at that shutter speed and aperture you can let in enough light if the scene is dark (I’ve not shot with Nikon, so I don’t know). I tend to shoot at 1/250 and can get some motion blur if the performers are moving quickly, but have trained myself to wait to the freezes where they are not moving, or moving less. You’re right about noise reduction development in the past three years, and we have more ability to control grain, but I always prefer sharp to noisy.
Gonna be taking pictures of a musical today. I’ll be sure to use all the tips from this video
Always enjoy your tutorials, Keith. Great pace and flow so that we can easily follow along. Appreciate the effort you put into them. I’ve been looking at jumping into the Fuji system and it’s nice to hear from yourself and the other comments that the repair/support experience is positive. (Hopefully the support in the States is just as good) It was also nice to have a bit of a “busy life update”. Enjoyed hearing some of the backstory of the photos you post on social media. Inspired me to try some ICM of my own lately. Looking forward to the next video!
I really enjoy slowing down and taking ICM pictures- the results are sometimes unpredictable but that’s part of the fun. Good luck.
Interesting video Keith. I've found Fuji repairs brilliant as well.
I’m glad it’s not just me
You should but a second belt clip to the camera strap!….
That’s a good idea
Hi Keith , I’ve just had to send my xt3 to Fuji for a pixel bleed on the rear lcd screen with same box in box process ,the whole process was 4 days and my camera was back good as new it was £216 well spent ,superb service
Hi Gary. That’s great news that I wasn’t a fluke. I’m really delighted that they were able to fix my lens.
P.s. Happy birthday 🎂 😅