Drivelife is a new up and coming Automotive youtube brand! We are dedicated to bringing you guys the best automotive content around! We have not started this channel as a business, we are enthusiasts looking to connect with other enthusiasts! We are trying to inspire and encourage everyone to own the cars they dream of owning! Our current project car is a 2009 Volvo S80 D5!
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It worked! Thanks!
D3 underrated?! I don't think so.. In Italy they want over 9000 euro for a used can with 200000km 😮
Lovely car!! Among my cars I have a S80 4.4 V8, a great machine!!
Did you ordered from us? Its gonna be alot of taxes to ship it to uk... :(
That looks impressive how the flashlight looks and that beam in night. Olight do some impressive flashlights as I just bought the olight seeker 4 pro which is impressive. Type C charging now which is faster to fully charge the flashlight. Can this use any type C charging cable? Great review!
Very helpful thx 💪🏼
We'll see, let us know when you get past 200,000 yeah..
Help, tomorow im going to look a s80 2007 2.4 d5 automatic. What i need to check before i buy?
Hello, Kiddo, it’s me again - I’ve practically watch you grow into the Volvo guru that you are today starting with the very first P2 estate that you derped around in your early videos. LOL! Anyway, I’ve got an unusual request, if you’re interested. And this concerns a P3’s center “waterfall” climate control panel - notice that nearly all surviving ones have peeling, silver laminated ‘sitting man’ buttons for the fan’s manual, directional flow? You know which three sitting man-shaped buttons that I’m talking about? The peeling factory material on it looks like it’s some kind of metallic Mylar wrappings on the head, torso, and legs of a sitting man shaped buttons, now - I wonder if those three buttons can be removed and dipped into some kind of water dipped film wrap, not unlike the overused ones that are almost always the favorite method to cover everything with fake carbon fiber pattern… Y’See where I’m getting at? So instead of reshaping small flat sheets of Mylar silver stickers to refurbish those three odd buttons, do you know of a thin, silver, water transfer sheets that would wrap the buttons but are translucent enough to allow backlighting as though factory? Hmmmm… I can’t find any such solution on eBay but you with your growing base might find some Volvo nutter out there who has this solution but too shy to market them. There’s gotta be one other bloke out there who’s tire of looking at the cracking silver buttons on the ‘waterfall’ panel. Cheers!
You replaced a perfectly good mount lol it's supposed to have those voids.
Ir saved me tine and money. Fantastic video. Appreciate your educative technique.
Amazing video. It made life troubled and frustrating situation very easy. Thank you so very much
Yes for sure 👍
Note: The P3 V70 D5; sensor isn't in this location.
A very easy transmission to change the fluid on, the downside is that they do not have a pan you can drop to change the filter. The gearbox should be at 50-60c when the level is checked, a lot of people worry that they need VIDA to set this, easier to use a cheap laser thermometer on the housing. Arguably an easier job than changing the engine oil.
A45 amg? 2015 dct gearbox
I agree with 100% we have a D3 p3 v70 and its been the faultless and it moves for a big car!
This video helped me out so much as well as replies to comments. Thanks
Please the language settings, i can not change my radio from Dutch to English.volvo v70 2008.
viimeinen oikea volvo on valmistunu vuonna 1998
I do have VIDA but also have a VDD dongle, quite expensive but useful, it can do some function enhancement and telemetry. Something else for you to play with perhaps? Annoyingly the cellular coverage (for the dongle) is poor in my driveway, but otherwise a great gadget.
Afaik all D4 awd is 5 cyl and all D4 fwd is 4 cyl.
How much was the remap please ?
£187 :)
Stupid?? This is a well thought engineering.
Yes, adhere to manufacturer specification when it comes to engine oils, however with brands, there are differences and I'll delve into that soon. For the five cylinder Volvo diesel, ACEA A5/B5 and viscosity of 5W-30 is perfect. Car manufacturers recommend a brand of engine oil for a number of reasons. Some manufacturers conduct their own inhouse tests to identify the best oil for their engines. Others invite oil companies to submit their test results and a few offer a supply contract in which they commit to buy a given volume of oil over a set period of time and in return for that they seek the lowest price. Volume and pricing are very important to "manufacturing" oil companies, while some so-called oil companies are really blending their products which are purchased from manufacturing oil companies. Now with regards to which brand is preferable? I know from my time working in the oil industry that the comany that's out testing oil forumlas in engines and have been doing so for many decades, will be the brand at the top of my list. There are only a few in this league and the best place to find them will be at the race track.That's where the real testing occurs, when engines are taken to the extreme of their performance capability. How does the engine oil protect those engines and what do oil test results reveal? Test results are usually focused on ware-metals that will be found in oil samples taken at the track. Also - does the oil affect power at the drive-wheels? Remember - race teams are really interested in anything that improves power output. What about cooling contributions? Yes, oil plays a role there as well. After all this, I'm not recommending a brand nor will I reveal which company I worked for, for 35 years. If you do your research you will find a brand that will be at the top in performance terms. The chemists and engineers in their research centres make sure of it. A few last comments: "Full" synthetic oils (PAO base stocks) don't need to be changed as often as mineral oils. I do not recommend using mineral or semi synthetic oils in anything. I use full synthetics even in my water pumps. The condition of used oil should still comply with specification at the time of change, so don't push your luck. If the mnaufacturer specifies 15,000 kilometre intervals, don't go past 20,000. There is extra duration capacity built into high quality synthetic oils. Always install a new oil filter with every oil change.
Hi, can you see a bit of the orange filter when installed, I can see a bit of orange on the forward/front of my air filter housing even though it appears well seated and all the clips are fastened?
Yes that’s the seal :)
I've had four belts snap. I wasn't aware of the potential catastrophic damage to the head. The first snapped shortly after buying the car. It was three years old. Luckily there was no damage. The belt and tensioner were replaced. This happened again, within the service interval. Again, no damage. The belt and tensioner were replaced. The third time it snapped and again there was no damage. The tensioner wasn't replaced as the work wasn't done by the usual garage due to time constraints. The replacement belt was non OE and I was still blissfully unaware of the risk involved. Seven months later, the fourth belt frayed and a slither of it caused the timing belt to jump a few teeth and the head was trashed. I'm in the process of replacing the head. I'm not a mechanic, so it's been a real trial as there's not too much space to play with. I've taken the rear bulkhead out which has made things more accessible. I'm replacing the water pump, the idler pulley, belt tensioner, timing belt, air con belt and the auxiliary belt. I've cleaned the egr valve and cooler in the process. The design of the lower timing belt cover is a less than robust, plastic half moon affair that wouldn't deflect a broken belt. I'm in the process of fabricating a guard to protect the lower timing belt cover in the hope that it will prevent any damage should there ever be another belt failure. A great engine let down by it's habit of devouring auxiliary belts. I bought my recon cylinder head from Autotech in Cornwall. They are doing a roaring trade supplying reconditioned D5 heads. Great Channel by the way!!
Still for sale?
Hi Neil, yes still for sale:)
I own a V40 6 speed auto with the 2.0 litre turbo "Drive E" petrol engine. A great running engine, smooth, and more economical than the older 5 cylinder engine it replaced In the 8 years I have owned the car, it has been totally trouble free. Whether it will have the long life that the 5 cylinder has a reputation for, I cannot say. The." Drive E" seies of engines haven't been around long enough to establish that yet.😉
a beautiful house, best for you, thanks
A torch review not in the dark 😮
I'm looking at getting a 2007 ish volvo v70 and I'm wondering what milage and engine I should be looking at. And then what price for that setup would be reasonable Any help?
What model and year?
Thanks man!
Did they remap the gearbox also? Or do they only do engine ecu remaps?
Please put the license plate on straight and level
Someone spent a long time designing these cars and used very expensive components is the prevailing feeling if you own one.
Nice area to drive in
This is just all reasons to have the 2A.
I use the electric tailgate on my V70 every day. Mikes it all so easy. Once you arrive at your car, it’s open. Once you’re behind the wheel, it’s closed again
I have had my 2010 S 80 turbo 6 cyl for 2 years now ...nice car ......fast car but it cost way more to maintain than any other car I owned....I did buy it with 110,000 miles on it but between oil leaks , suspension repairs , the control module broke for my ALL wheel drive system ...The maintenance and upkeep is ridiculous.....I plan to sell it as soon as i can and get a chevy impala 6 cyl with 300 horsepower ...Im sure that wont cost me that much to maintain...and at least it will be fast too.....😅😅😅
Btw one small addition, if you have a factory subwoofer (like mine), you can press tuning one more time to adjust the volume of that thing
I was hoping for a long term review, but you just reviewed the car in general. Good video still.
I am from the Netherlands and recently bought one of these. Yours is a sept 09 reg? Mine is a 13 reg D4 (163hp but tuned and now has 198hp) Mine had 280k km (168k miles) when I purchased it but it is mint. No leather wear and tear anywhere, no dings or scratches and motorway driven. Full options apart from bird eye view cameras and the tow bar but comes with a fridge in the rear seat;)
Diesel fuel additives should be pretty good especially for the injectors. However, if you're not happy how your diesel engine works, always start by swapping the fuel filter. A dirty fuel filter in diesel engine typically causes poor performance without any faults in the ECU.
I nearly bought a E39 Touring last week, but the rust on the sills did put me off as I could not buy a daily car and having to do additional work on it., especially bodywork. Saying that, I now bought a different daily commuter car and when the E12 is up and running, might fee the itch again and start to look at E39's (or even E38's) again.
The previous owner wrapped it? What does that mean? Was it sanded back to bare metal and then sprayed with owatrol /waxol or something like that? And then repainted with a roller?
It's a single row chain on the om651 and as the dual cam sprockets wear the small pieces drop down into the lower timing gears and can ruin the gear on the end of the crankshaft. Not a very good engine at all!
If you have a start stop button
I've done loads of these never needed any special tools and quite easy on a ramp. also rebuilt a few where the belt has snapped and gone in behind he crank pully and slipped or snapped the timing belt destroys the head the casting breaks off around the lifters. if something could be designed to stop the belt going into the rear of the pully that would be good brilliant engines though sound great the 5 cyl very tuneable too