Welcome to the new DIYautotech website,
It is here where you'll be able to learn how to maintain your vehicles performance, looks, and drive ability all from the comfort of your computer screen. My step-by-step instructional videos offer great knowledge and insight on how proper vehicle repairs can be performed. I specialize in engine building, machining, and fuel/electrical diagnosis. Stay confident, and no job will ever stump you.
This channel is dedicated to all you "Do It Yourselfers" out there. Keep on wrenching!
I have been certified by the state of California for the following:
Automotive Chassis Specialist
Automotive Engine Service Specialist
Automotive Engine Performance Specialist
General Automotive Technician
Advanced Clean Air Certification
MVAC Tech Certified
EPA Clean Air Section 609
ASE Certifications Include:
A1- Engine Repair
A6- Electrical
A8- Engine Performance
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Ok, it's been 12 years , what is your opinion of the model 63 now ?
On the starting of your video, by hearing your voice I thought you're a 16 year old guy😅
Hi sir my a.c is continue taking 5 amp and not going down and room temperature is also not going down. But a.c is blowing cool air. Please help
Thanks for taking the time to make this video 🍻
Tried this it does help but doing it by yourself fucking sucks
The updated Streamlight ProTac HL-X has the same candela as the HL-X Pro, and a better remote switch. I'm going to wait until all the old stock is sold, and I can confidently buy the updated ProTac HL-X with 50,000 candela.
How do you differentiate the old vs updated HLX? They share the same model code and none of the retailers have updated the spec to 50,000 candela. According to streamlight the model is 88066 without usb battery and 88071 with, but they have the specs from the old one on every other website.
@@willng34 it's impossible right now. Streamlight didn't change the part number. On most websites, it still says 27,600 candela. I imagine there's still a lot of old stock out there that needs to be sold, before they send the new one to resellers. If it's actually advertised as 50,000 candela, I'm sure it's the new model. Something to consider, is that with that much candela, it will likely wash out your red dot. I might buy both models, to see if they wash out my red dot, and then return the one that doesn't wash it out. My iron sights are co-witnessed. But, I'm so farsighted, I can't see the front iron sight post. I need the red dot.
Dude I was wondering why my HLX-Pro looks exactly the same as the HL-X. I got both so I could decide and was losing it because I couldn’t tell a difference in illumination.
@@UpsideDownHamster it depends if you receive a new HL-X, or old stock that still needs to be sold. Online retailers haven't yet updated the regular HL-X to the 50,000 candela, so you don't really know what you're buying
Streamlight needs to get better. I'd pay $250-300 for a rifle light with a good remote switch, that doesn't drop the water resistance to IPX4, and has several intuitive functions on the remote switch. I really wanted to like this light, but the remote switch attachment kills it, in addition to the beam pattern. I honestly can't see how this is better than an Olight Baldr Pro or Olight Baldr Pro R. If they want us to buy US made products, they need to make them better than the Chinese competition.
Thank you I been trying to get it to in for last 30 minutes
Seriously? What you think about in a firefight/CQB: - don't fuck up/don't die - protect your team - don't fuck up/don't die - COVER! - don't fuck up/don't die - If in darkness, get lights. ANY LIGHTS. - don't fuck up/don't die - More 'nades, more ammo - don't fuck up/don't die What you don't think about in a firefight/CQB: - That guy over there has a pink scarf - The rings of this WML truly look like rings of Saturn - Did I leave the gas on? - 1 grenade and 2 full mags is plenty enough - Too bad this WML has those rings, it really prevents me from seeing the full range of colors of the hairs of that guy's moustache properly
I think you've missed the point of the video. The concept I am trying to relay is that any advantage in CQB is an advantage, therefore if you can find a light without rings in the beam profile, you'll have better visibility without creating shadows or casting lines across your field of view. Rings add clutter, add more information to process, that equates to more time "thinking" instead of acting. Any advantage is an advantage, so if all things are equal, you'd want a light without rings in the beam profile vs one that DID have rings like this does. That is the point.
I totally disagree with this. I have used a CD with 100k candela inside and its fine. You have to know what you are doing some but it gets it done. I am sure you could get different lights for different situations but I dont think that 50k candela is overwhelming indoors and it works well to about 200 yards outdoors. What if the indoor threat becomes an outdoor threat. To you tell the bad guy ..."hang on my other rifle has the higher candela - let me get that one please so I can shoot you from a distance while positively id'ing you"? Those rings would never hinder you from a positive ID. Are you going to tell me if there was a man sized criminal that bathroom those rings would camo him somehow or you wouldnt see him quick enough. I cant buy that.
You've missed the entire point. It's not JUST about rings. It's about the disadvantage one small thing like that adds to an already high stress situation. Given the option to have a light with similar outputs, one would want a clear white light that had no artifact in its beam profile, nobody would choose the light that had a bunch of rings in it with different colors that bent and changed shape around corners/doors. THAT is the point. Yes it would work but there are options out there that will work a lot better given the fact that they don't have any artifact in their beam profile.
Useless
any idea why the fuse on the harness blows everytime i switch the lights on?
What was it doing that made you decide to change that?
What does that really matter though? In a serious situation you’re not going to notice or care about those rings anyway. If you’re distracted by that, it means you aren’t threat focused.
White light beam profiles with clean optics provide better data to the end user. White light beam profiles with rings and discolorations put you at a disadvantage. You may not focus on it in a threat centered situation. But it may make the difference in a split second decision that could alter your life forever. Given the options, I would choose the WML platform with solid, white light that didn't have artifact in it. That was the point of this video.
@@DIYautotech as someone who has this light and other more expensive ones, I didn’t even notice this to be honest.
@@robert1539 yours might not have it. I too own other lights from other companies at similar and more expensive price points. None of them have those rings, including lights from the same company. Either way this was my opinion in the video noted. Feel free to make your own conclusions and I hope the light works well for you.
@@DIYautotech no it does, while yeah it may be noticeable against a plane white wall and not be aesthetically pleasing, I don’t see it as being an issue being able to pid something, especially outside in brush, you won’t see those rings at all. The point is I don’t feel it in no way makes the light unless as you mention, just a minor flaw.
cool, Thx for sharing
What seem to be the problem because mine does this? Please help can find the problem!
Who's going to focus on rings in a self defensive situation ..
You've missed the entire point. It's not JUST about rings. It's about the disadvantage one small thing like that adds to an already high stress situation. Given the option to have a light with similar outputs, one would want a clear white light that had no artifact in its beam profile, nobody would choose the light that hand a bunch of rings in it with different colors that bent and changed shape around corners/doors. THAT is the point. Taking a hollistic view of this light, a small notion like rings puts it at a disadvantage vs 99% of the other WML systems out that that don't have any abnormal colors or rings in their beam profile. Any advantage is an advantage in a life or death situation. So you may not focus on it, but the addition of small advantages here and there make the difference between you meeting your maker and you getting to hug your family again.
Nice video, im not sure if I would have put anti seize on the lug threads, though..
I really like the protac 2.0 .. 2000 lum.. I just don't like the extra port for the battery charger.
For one.. You could run it on low for CQB and it would work better. But you're missing the whole point of this light: It has 50k candela and works well at shooting a far beam. So depending on what you are using it for, the benefits of the longer range is well worth the bit of artifacts you get in CQB.. Thrid'ly: I agree that the plug isn't great; but all switches break, so I never use them. It works well running it left side- and just use the button on the cap. It's a great light for a rifle.. maybe not so much for a CQB setup.
Surprisingly, that high candella and high lumen combo worked really well for CQB. It was just the rings that threw me off on corners. You'd think the 50k was too narrow, but because it also had high lumens it provided tons of spill WITH a tight hot spot. So you got the best of both worlds in that regard.
@@DIYautotech I'd use a different light if I could find one that was better for the same price. or at least similar performance, but for cheaper. This is about the best bang for buck that I can find
@@calholli I agree with you on this point despite the downfalls noted in the video. If those rings don't bother you and you don't use the rail mount switch, it's basically a perfect light.
The Best Video !!!
So was this just content for the sake of content?
Isn't that the case for all content? lol
This content was to go against the grain of every other youtube channel who watches other peoples videos and regurgitates the same old review. This was an honest review.
High candela is for longer range not for cqb they have other protect versions that will work better for cqb
This man saved my life😢
Thank you I love you handsome brilliant man
Thanks, you made it clear that I can not do this where I live (an apartment complex where they do not want you working on cars). I have rebuilt several big block engines, but there is no way I could quickly slip this in and out in a parking lot. That said, hey, thanks for sharing the basic removal steps with us all. (01 Honda Civic EX vtec 2 dr. Manual) 🙂
You’re not showing nothing but your face😂
Man…watching and hearing the way you work is like looking in a mirror. Always thought I was being too OCD with everything but looks like you validate my workflow! Only thing I’m hesitant on is anti-seize on the wheel lugs, but it’s usually a highly unlikely scenario that they just back out for no reason. But anyways, thank you so much for this well thought out and thorough walkthrough! Didn’t realize the slide pins would be so cheap, so went ahead and got those as well. Thanks again!
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
So u gonna show how to do it with a screw driver?
Those battery ends are cheap. They don't last very long. Corrosion sets in. If you don't get the ends that need soldering what is the point?
Thanks for the video! A very detailed and clear tutorial. I will be doing the pads and rotors on my 02 4Runner in the next few days and I will be using this video as a guide.
You are a beautiful man
Will the original hl-x tailcap fit the pro?
Yes they are backward compatible l. I have the hlx pro because it's higher candela at 50k but I use the old tail cap cuz it's smaller and doesn't rattle around all loose plug like
Any chance you can get a fuckin air horn while doing this fucked video
Great video Sir 👍 do you have a video that show how best to run exterior wires up to a roof rack for mounted offroad lights ?
I think the feeler gauge might scratch your inner tube.
I watched your vodeo for doing a tining belt on a 2001 Honda Civic, & YOU SAID Turn the EngineCLOCKWISE, Because it is an Interference Engine, & you do Not wat the Piston to Hit the Vlves & THAT IS WRONG, THAT IS WRONG, The PROPER Direction is Turn the Engine COUNTER CLOCK WISE,( CCW) COUNTER CLOCK WISE. ....ANOTHER YOU TUBE DUMMY THAT THINKS HE KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING... BE WARNED
❤❤❤😘😍
your doing it wrong u place the feeler gauge down first then the straight edge on top and check for drag
My Coleman CT200-U (FVRITO Performance VM22 26mm Carburetor). Did the same thing thru me of the back, while riding) Because i am not smart. I started it 2 times more with it going full throttle and launching into the air. I have replaced my carburetor. Seems to work. Mine is not a toy
Did you contact Streamlight about the "rings" or the tailcap issues? This could be a one-off problem.
I did. Noted no issues. Said it had to do with the reflector profile/lens coating.
15 minutes of complaining about the "rings". I promise you, in an actual use scenerio, you’ll never notice those "rings". The loose plug is an issue and probably something that Streamlight will address. Their CS is fantastic so I'm not worried. If you dont run preasure pads, it's a non-issue.
Their CS was helpful but identified the rings being normal for this run of lights due to the lens coating and reflector profile. Providing data against the grain isn't complaining, you ought to understand the difference. The world isn't all "this is right" and "this is wrong" this light is a blend in-between. It has terrible rings within that 99% of other lights do not. It does however offer a great blend of high candella and high lumens similar to the PLHV2 at a fraction of the price. In an actual use scenario I want every advantage I can take. Using a light that provides solid white light data without ANY artifact within will allow me to process better, clearer, non articulated information that much faster. Every small advantage works in your favor of going home to your family. If you missed that point of the video then you should re-watch.
This is my first time doing rear brakes btw so you saved me hours of head scratching trying to figure it out ❤😊
Omg thank you ! You saved my ass I already had my tire and old brake pads off when I realized the caliper cant compress with c clamp 😅
I just received mine today and it's going back to Amazon. It wouldn't even turn on unless I loosened the Battery cap. Also The pressure Switch didn't work at all. So disappointing! I will definitely look for those Rings when I shop around for the next one.
You may have gotten a fake copy.. Only buy from reputable places
Yeah you get ripped on stuff like this off Amazon fake optics Magpul a bunch of stuff. Unity risers a lot is fake on their. I learned the hard way myself
That intro is really cutting it close & similar to that dude in blues intro…
thanks really helpful
Oh wow you have some imperfections with a 130.00 wml. These lights are not made for the operator doing cqb 8 hours a day. Its for the homeowner when he hears so.ething go bump in the night.
So just because it is mid-range we cannot talk about its shortcomings? Sort of weird logic my friend.
1:49 just started watching, but I feel like there is no reason to be running 50k candela when you are indoors. Wouldn’t you be running the lower power indoor in a dark house?
50K candella is great for busting through photonic barriers IE other lights or windows, and also blinding power. This light also had enough lumens to provide plenty of spill for CQB. The 1K lumen/50K candella is a fantastic mix for CQB in my opinion. Anything 15k-50K candella.