Installed a 1/4" barbed shutoff valve (and another inline filter) which I will shut during driving times, turned on when stopped for the night. Pulled the failed spring loaded part out of the system and which is a common issue. Now I'm just relying on the shutoff valve during transport. No more issues, hopefully.
@mgshedden7 күн бұрын
$448 now on onan webstore 7/2024…
@mikecourson6208 күн бұрын
My daughter asked me to send photos to her with your Instagram address and said she would send the photos, my e-mail address and phone number to you to make more private future communication simpler. She is with a client/patient now and says she will get it sent by some time this evening. It will be nice to talk with you. Best Mike C.
@mikecourson6208 күн бұрын
Good Morning Jeff, I'm a bit of a dinosaur but I'll ask one of my daughters how to use Instagram. If I can rub two rocks together and figure it out, I'll send you photos of the battery box, and if you wish - one of the boxes. I used to own a plastics injection molding business down here in San Diego and for over 20 years designed and built production injection mold tooling and finished products for my customers. I moved some of my CNC equipment to my home "shop" when I retired and also still have several - 3D printers which is what I made the battery boxes with. The fit is perfect and I have to say that its a really good looking system. The only thing that keeps it from being a complete "Plug and Play" for the average person is that two of the wiring plugs require a short extension which could be easily made by someone with basic electronics skills. The box is simple to manufacture. A 3D print with a Bambu printer takes just under 3 hours in PETG. An injection molded part would take about 20 seconds. My concern about possibly manufacturing and selling them inexpensively is potential liability and the yet unexamined cost of liability insurance. I've considered sending the design to Smart Drive, but I suspect that they'd rather continue selling their batteries for $1600+ instead of a longer lasting, lighter weight one complete for $100 to $200??? If I can figure out how to use Instagram we can trade thoughts on that later. If you have thoughts on this that won't end up with one of us dealing with un-necessary liability kindly unfold them. Best to you.
@duneroller8 күн бұрын
I would love to get a plug and play kit out there. I'm not hard to find if you use Facebook, Instagram, or LinkedIn. I'm in the Madera, CA area. We would need to discuss how to limit the liability while still giving the users an option. I'm currently in the environmental field and my LinkedIn picture is about 10 years old.
@jvv89508 күн бұрын
Thanks
@mikecourson6209 күн бұрын
Good Afternoon Jeff - I appreciate your efforts to help those who need an affordable battery for their SmartDrive. The SmartDrive is a well thought out, excellent product. Their replacement battery at $1600+ for a battery that can be manufactured and sold for $59-$70 is a bit steep for anyone let alone someone who requires a wheelchair for mobility. Following up on your kind KZread providing an explanation and demonstrating how an affordable hoverboard battery can replace the $1,600+ replacement battery designed for the Smart Drive, I have designed and made a nice fitting box to contain the battery you've shown here with standard attachments to the smart drive, fitting attachments for the computer board, and attachments for the buzzer. If you provide a contact address, I will send you photos of same and if your request it, follow up with one of the boxes. Looking at some of your you tubes, you are a fine example of "running" with the gift of life. Thanks for that. Mike C.
@duneroller8 күн бұрын
I'm not sure if you are an Instagram user. I don't use it much but do you the messenger feature. You can send me a message @duneroller and I'll reply as soon as I get the request. I don't know a safer way to get in touch without posting email on a public post. I'm very interested in the box and how you are making (printing?) them.
@mikethe2thman9 күн бұрын
how is the run time? and do you think a 40 volt lawn mower battery might work as well maybe faster?
@duneroller8 күн бұрын
The run time is better than stock because the hoverboard battery has a larger capacity. Because I don't have any specifications on the drive board I would stay in the 36-volt range. The additional voltage will not change the speed. That is limited by the software on the board.
@mikecourson62012 күн бұрын
I would like to make a wire conversion harness to connect the main power connection on the stock battery to connect to the connector on the hover board battery which is a SL60. Can you (or anyone) tell me what the identifying number is for the stock larger battery connector - and where I might purchase one? Thank You for your help on this.
@duneroller11 күн бұрын
I don't happen to have one apart right now. Most of the other connectors are Molex Wire to Board connectors. They are also known as "plug and socket" connectors. For example, the RS232 plug from the battery is a CLIK-Mate Molex. The wire to board Molex connectors can be found here. www.molex.com/en-us/products/connectors/wire-to-board-connectors. The connectors can be complex. The plug and socket connectors are sold separately from the male and female plug housing. I have many sets of connectors and crimping tools including several Molex and JST (Japanese Solderless Terminal). The connectors don't match any of the common plugs I use on RC, motorcycle, and automotive applications. I'll take a closer look next time I have it apart. If you are dead set on not cutting the wires start by measuring the pin-to-pin distance. This is the pitch of the connector. Identify if the plug connectors are round or blade next. Then locate the corresponding family and part number. Digikey stocks many individual parts and crimpers. Let us know if you find the exact connector.
@mikecourson62018 күн бұрын
I use he newer "rotary power" controller to turn on and off and vary the speed of my SmartDrive. It plugs into the same socket used to charge the battery. My question is - if I splice the two power wires in the hover board battery into the original power wires (red and black) and use the same connections into the circuit board - do you foresee any damage or issues from that layout. Since the hoverboard battery has its own integral BMXXXX board - am I OK ignoring the two sets of plug ins from the BMXXX board that exists in the original $1,600 SmartDrive battery, or do I need to integrate them somehow into the new system's circuit? I'm unsure of how the 2 plugs from the BMXXX origional battery interact with the circuit board??? Can it be ignored since it appears that the new hoverboard battery has its own integrated BMXXX? It appears to me that the new hover board battery can be plugged into the existing circuit board and be charged from the origional charging system/plug, and enjoy a long, happy life doing its work. Thank you MUCH for the time you've taken to design and KZread post a solution providing an alternative using a more reasonable $50 to $100 battery to being forced to purchase a battery proving lesser service for 15 to 30 times the cost. SmartDrive is a finely designed product. Their product and battery costs however significantly gouge those who are unfortunate to be mobility handicapped as well as the insurance companies or uninsured people that are seeking a way to be mobile without wearing out their shoulders in the process. I look forward to your response and/or any knowledgeable answer posted.
@duneroller18 күн бұрын
The accessory wires and plug are separate from the charge circuit. I don't see any issue with the splice and connect as shown in this video. The original battery should have 3 connectors. One to the charge port, one that supplies power to the circuit board (heavy wires) and the rectangular RS232 from the BMS to the main controller. The hoverboard battery does not have a separate charge and power from the BMS so the charge and power plugs need to be connected in parallel as shown.
@mikecourson62017 күн бұрын
Good Morning Jeff, Wow! thank You for a fast and helpful response to my question. I will complete the new battery installation today. Thank You again for your consideration in finding and YouTubing a solution for wheel Chair users who cannot pay $1,600 for a battery that with a simple modification can be replaced for $50 to $100. Best Regards - Mike C.
@4cornershike51Ай бұрын
Thank you!!!!!!! I was able to save a "broken" unit. These companies are insane charging what they charge and even absolutely refusing service if you are not the registered user.
@timgraves.crittersinmyarea7792Ай бұрын
Awesome. I have the same mx2 from max mobility in 2016 recently the battery finally died, and i didn't want to pay 1500 for a new battery. Permobil said I needed to update my mx2 with mx2+ technology, but I wanted to use my old school Bluetooth wristband. They said it wouldn't work. So I told them I'll just get a new mx2+ and swap the batteries. lol they said the batteries in the mx2+ are not compatible with the old mx2. I didn't believe them but my insurance would pay 100% for a new mx2+. Soon as I got it I opened it up to discover they are the exact same battery. Now my old mx2 is perfect and I have a box of spare parts from the new mx2+. LoL
@dunerollerАй бұрын
Thanks for verifying the batterie are the same. I found parts diagrams that gave the same part number but your information means the numbers actually mean the same battery! I also have an MX2 and and MX2+ and the batteries had the same number when I took them apart. The MX2+ app on the Iwatch actually has an MX2 mode so it uses the MX2 push sensing rather than the MX2+ double tap to start, single tap set, and double tap stop.
@jvv8950Ай бұрын
Hi Jeff, my son uses an MX2 for years and depends on it. Recently battery has decreased capacity. I bought a used one on eBay to refurbish as I didn't want to mess up his existing one. I also bought a replacement battery there from Europe for $500. I replaced it and it worked for awhile then stopped working. Wrist band is connected, motor will not kick in when chair is pushed. The unit has an older serial #, so according to permobil r 232 should not be connected but old and replacement batteries have cable for RS 232. Do you think connecting the rs232 could be the problem ? Have you found anyone to replace the cells in the battery?
@dunerollerАй бұрын
When you say the wrist band is connected I'm assuming when the MX2 and wrist band are powered on the LED on the wrist band blinks blue about 1 time each second. This indicates a solid connection. The RS232 should not have any effect on the function of the MX2 other than you will not get battery error information. If you want to make sure it's not the RS232 just remove the handle (only to make it easier to sit it upside down) then the six screws that hold the bottom on. The RS232 connector can be unplugged with a fingernail. Re-assemble and mount on chair to test. Are you testing the unit mounted on the chair in normal orientation and with a smooth push? The unit needs to be at approximately the operating angle and handle up to function. I've also had issues if I run the wrist band loose because I push and the wrist band detects the wrist band hitting my wrist as a stop tap. I have not found anyone in the US to change cells other than the manufacturer. The US has many attorneys that like to file suit against anyone for any reason. Most people will not work on a medical device due to liability issues. I have built other battery packs successfully but I have not been able to do this one. I purchased quality cells the same capacity as the originals, welded them properly with nickel flat wire, connected the 13 BMS leads by soldering with high temperature (850F) for very short duration. I verified voltages pin to pin on the 13 pin BMS connector and all cells were within .01 volts but it still burned up the BMS as soon as I plugged in the connector. That's when I gave up and put the hoverboard battery inside.
@jvv8950Ай бұрын
Thanks. According to the Permobil smartdrive battery replacement video, lower serial numbers do not use the battery connection to RS232. I'm not sure what that means.
@duneroller8 күн бұрын
@@jvv8950 Sorry for my slow response. I just read your comment. RS232 is a basic serial communication protocol. It's most often used on computer with a 9 pin VGA port to communicate with peripheral devices. The cable with the small wires running from the battery pack to the board communicates the status of the battery pack to the main board. The earlier drives do not use this communication connection according to Permobil.
@marcstlaurent37192 ай бұрын
I was able to rebuild my pack for $ 180 Canadian getting them from 18650 Battery store , but you need access to spot welder for the nickel strips you also need . Did you mention scooter battery .
@gerryhan8818Ай бұрын
If you found my channel, mine is better solution. As good as original pack, runs for 4 km and still show 3 led.
@gerryhan8818Ай бұрын
18650 may have 3.7v The original is 3.2/3.3v
@alnitty11422 ай бұрын
How is it holding up?
@duneroller9 күн бұрын
All good so far...
@alnitty11429 күн бұрын
Nice.. I’m going to try to do this to a friends of mine’s smartdrive. He probably used it once and didn’t use it much after that and apparently the battery got messed up. Which is crazy . Thank you for the reply.
@alnitty11422 ай бұрын
Hello do you happen to have the link for the hover board battery thanks.
@brittanygamblin73929 күн бұрын
Wondering the same!
@alnitty114229 күн бұрын
@@brittanygamblin739 in his other video he has the specs of the battery .. you can google it and find it.
@indigokids882 ай бұрын
We played 😊❤❤
@turbof3503 ай бұрын
Very nicely done! Cheers!
@mrb29174 ай бұрын
Excellent, just watched your other video, this one will be perfect for my used mx2+
@mrb29174 ай бұрын
Thanks for this great video. I just bought a used mx2+, now I don't have to worry about if the battery is DOA or not. This looks like a quick easy upgrade, thanks again!
@05rickie4 ай бұрын
Yes this video is 8 yrs old,at the time Jeff did not know how to remove the Altitude Adjuster,this could have saved him some time,to remove the Adjuster remove the drain screw just below the Adjuster,then turn the Adjuster to locate the stops on the back of the Adjuster,with a pair of needle nose pliers break off the plastic stops,now you can turn the Adjuster counter clockwise to remove the Adjuster,now you can clean the needle and orifice without removing the solenoid and float bowl. When removing just make sure you count the number of turns to remove the Adjuster,then after cleaning replace the Adjuster with the same amount of turns.
@bullspitteninawheelchair87484 ай бұрын
Can i get the information on the hoverboard battery?
@duneroller4 ай бұрын
I used a 36 volt 4.4AH (4400mAh) 20 cell (10S-2P) with outside dimensions of 135X70X60 millimeters. Some descriptions will say 135X75X60 which will still fit. There are many options on Amazon or eBay.
@Wheeled_Fighter5 ай бұрын
I knew someone would finally put a different less expensive battery in one of these. Amazing how $1500 is what they want for a battery. My buddy and I were going to buy to lipos for an RC rock crawler and adapt them to power a smart drive power assist. We can charge them on special chargers that balance the cells.
@ricardokimball18445 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. My generator surges when idealing. When I put a load on, it smooths out and runs fine. Any advice please?
@williamramsey28516 ай бұрын
As a last resort, I carefully pried the black plastic knob off, and was able to unscrew the needle and clean the passage in the float bowl. I left the knob off, and adjust the screw in until the engine runs rough, and then back out 1/2 turn or so. Just like you would on a car or motorcycle. Instantly ran perfect.
@jramseysr18 ай бұрын
Hey Jeff mine has a new carb and it surges, could it be the choke adjustment?
@heathersinclair26849 ай бұрын
You love doing that sort of thing ❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
@heathersinclair26849 ай бұрын
❤❤❤you doing what younlike .
@user-sd1jp9oo9y9 ай бұрын
Hi Jeff, I'm writing from Italy...nice to meet you. I've got an Onan Generator Microlite 2.0 Genset(very similar to your one...the only difference is the power it generates, here in Italy we need 220Volts). I'm asking you, please, if you think that the carburetor mounted on mine could be the same of your(as a spare parts)...what do you think, please? Many thanks for any reply you can and for the well explaing video...ciao Ricky
@davidmurphy7587 Жыл бұрын
A perfect instruction with no fanfare!
@optimusprime2125 Жыл бұрын
How do you turn the machine off, do you hold the switch on off for a prolonged period?
@SabInCali Жыл бұрын
"no wires hanging out" you say this like it's a bad thing. 😂
@yogibeer9319 Жыл бұрын
They’re over $300 now. I’m going for an Onan vs the Chinese one on your recommendation, plus the principle. Thanks for a great video
@marrmar1 Жыл бұрын
Thanks Jeff! I just did mine based on your video. I also installed a manual fuel shut off valve for the long periods of non use. Happy to say it is running like a champ now.
@pnoman316 Жыл бұрын
Where did you buy your carburetor? The very cheapest I have found is $300.
@OmaticFever Жыл бұрын
Looks amazing! You need a vid of the thing running around.
@sandasturner9529 Жыл бұрын
First
@sandasturner9529 Жыл бұрын
What does it do?
@toupsclassroomtoupsclassro9557 Жыл бұрын
update: tried 2 knockoff carbs from amazon neither worked. bought a gallon of carb soak for oreileys' and soaked the oem carb for 25 min. sprayed with water and then blew with air. this oem carb was ultrsonic cleaned before by me and it did not work but after soaking it did...........used the foam from one aftermarked with silicone to glue it and took off one spacer between carb and pipe that mounts to engine. I cut with my makita the metal on that pipe along with one spacer off and could bolt the carb to pipe and get the whole assemble in the space.................rpm s seem high but the carb is starting and starting from the panel inside the rialta............used the after market bowl and needle and used the needle but used the oem float.................hey, it works......................hope this helps someone
@CesarGonzalez-pj9gg Жыл бұрын
Love all you’re toys Jeff. I’m a C5/6 myself. Can you make a video of the homemade wheelchair for the dunes. I’ve seen It on the background of several of your videos. Thanks 🙏 Have a great day
@dennmartin6736 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for vedio, did same and found jet stuck in hole had to really clean her up and after I finally got altitude mixture screw set to running state and it took awhile but she finally ran smooth I knew I had it and popped the plastic turn marker in place now I know altmanator was dead on to my 500' altitude. Load hardly makes I studder
@toupsclassroomtoupsclassro9557 Жыл бұрын
Frist off thanks so much you did a nice job filming. I pulled mine off like you did before I watched your video, but watched to replace torn the black foam a little................ultrasonic for 1 hr no luck.............buying one from amazon with shut off.....hoping for best. I would like to cut the filter bracket out and mount the filter directly to the carb. but not sure how and may not........but w/o that bracket it would be so much easier..............if you ask me it is a bad design.........
@philjohnson564 Жыл бұрын
Am dizzy after watching. Good video even with shaky camera.
@Niguelpacific Жыл бұрын
Trying to set up speed front light bar which is 288 W That’s about 24 A I’m confused when you said run a pilot wire what do you mean by pilot
@1494galvez Жыл бұрын
Great video. Fixed my issues. Thanks 🥹
@EstradaSteven Жыл бұрын
Still works for the Cummins Onan QG 4000 EVAP generator.
@scottphillips88 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for great video.
@MR_UNOoo Жыл бұрын
Great video man but I think I would rather just place the carb with a cheap Amazon carb and save myself some time. and put up fuel shut off before the carburetor suck it run it dry
@locopilot1 Жыл бұрын
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
@locopilot1 Жыл бұрын
This is how I fixed mine. In the case of: "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in my RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker (ON) at front RV engine compartment for current, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay runing only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old tricks) it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats. Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion. For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Eny engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding. After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover and done!!! If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
Пікірлер
winner gets Bob and a Bud Lite
Installed a 1/4" barbed shutoff valve (and another inline filter) which I will shut during driving times, turned on when stopped for the night. Pulled the failed spring loaded part out of the system and which is a common issue. Now I'm just relying on the shutoff valve during transport. No more issues, hopefully.
$448 now on onan webstore 7/2024…
My daughter asked me to send photos to her with your Instagram address and said she would send the photos, my e-mail address and phone number to you to make more private future communication simpler. She is with a client/patient now and says she will get it sent by some time this evening. It will be nice to talk with you. Best Mike C.
Good Morning Jeff, I'm a bit of a dinosaur but I'll ask one of my daughters how to use Instagram. If I can rub two rocks together and figure it out, I'll send you photos of the battery box, and if you wish - one of the boxes. I used to own a plastics injection molding business down here in San Diego and for over 20 years designed and built production injection mold tooling and finished products for my customers. I moved some of my CNC equipment to my home "shop" when I retired and also still have several - 3D printers which is what I made the battery boxes with. The fit is perfect and I have to say that its a really good looking system. The only thing that keeps it from being a complete "Plug and Play" for the average person is that two of the wiring plugs require a short extension which could be easily made by someone with basic electronics skills. The box is simple to manufacture. A 3D print with a Bambu printer takes just under 3 hours in PETG. An injection molded part would take about 20 seconds. My concern about possibly manufacturing and selling them inexpensively is potential liability and the yet unexamined cost of liability insurance. I've considered sending the design to Smart Drive, but I suspect that they'd rather continue selling their batteries for $1600+ instead of a longer lasting, lighter weight one complete for $100 to $200??? If I can figure out how to use Instagram we can trade thoughts on that later. If you have thoughts on this that won't end up with one of us dealing with un-necessary liability kindly unfold them. Best to you.
I would love to get a plug and play kit out there. I'm not hard to find if you use Facebook, Instagram, or LinkedIn. I'm in the Madera, CA area. We would need to discuss how to limit the liability while still giving the users an option. I'm currently in the environmental field and my LinkedIn picture is about 10 years old.
Thanks
Good Afternoon Jeff - I appreciate your efforts to help those who need an affordable battery for their SmartDrive. The SmartDrive is a well thought out, excellent product. Their replacement battery at $1600+ for a battery that can be manufactured and sold for $59-$70 is a bit steep for anyone let alone someone who requires a wheelchair for mobility. Following up on your kind KZread providing an explanation and demonstrating how an affordable hoverboard battery can replace the $1,600+ replacement battery designed for the Smart Drive, I have designed and made a nice fitting box to contain the battery you've shown here with standard attachments to the smart drive, fitting attachments for the computer board, and attachments for the buzzer. If you provide a contact address, I will send you photos of same and if your request it, follow up with one of the boxes. Looking at some of your you tubes, you are a fine example of "running" with the gift of life. Thanks for that. Mike C.
I'm not sure if you are an Instagram user. I don't use it much but do you the messenger feature. You can send me a message @duneroller and I'll reply as soon as I get the request. I don't know a safer way to get in touch without posting email on a public post. I'm very interested in the box and how you are making (printing?) them.
how is the run time? and do you think a 40 volt lawn mower battery might work as well maybe faster?
The run time is better than stock because the hoverboard battery has a larger capacity. Because I don't have any specifications on the drive board I would stay in the 36-volt range. The additional voltage will not change the speed. That is limited by the software on the board.
I would like to make a wire conversion harness to connect the main power connection on the stock battery to connect to the connector on the hover board battery which is a SL60. Can you (or anyone) tell me what the identifying number is for the stock larger battery connector - and where I might purchase one? Thank You for your help on this.
I don't happen to have one apart right now. Most of the other connectors are Molex Wire to Board connectors. They are also known as "plug and socket" connectors. For example, the RS232 plug from the battery is a CLIK-Mate Molex. The wire to board Molex connectors can be found here. www.molex.com/en-us/products/connectors/wire-to-board-connectors. The connectors can be complex. The plug and socket connectors are sold separately from the male and female plug housing. I have many sets of connectors and crimping tools including several Molex and JST (Japanese Solderless Terminal). The connectors don't match any of the common plugs I use on RC, motorcycle, and automotive applications. I'll take a closer look next time I have it apart. If you are dead set on not cutting the wires start by measuring the pin-to-pin distance. This is the pitch of the connector. Identify if the plug connectors are round or blade next. Then locate the corresponding family and part number. Digikey stocks many individual parts and crimpers. Let us know if you find the exact connector.
I use he newer "rotary power" controller to turn on and off and vary the speed of my SmartDrive. It plugs into the same socket used to charge the battery. My question is - if I splice the two power wires in the hover board battery into the original power wires (red and black) and use the same connections into the circuit board - do you foresee any damage or issues from that layout. Since the hoverboard battery has its own integral BMXXXX board - am I OK ignoring the two sets of plug ins from the BMXXX board that exists in the original $1,600 SmartDrive battery, or do I need to integrate them somehow into the new system's circuit? I'm unsure of how the 2 plugs from the BMXXX origional battery interact with the circuit board??? Can it be ignored since it appears that the new hoverboard battery has its own integrated BMXXX? It appears to me that the new hover board battery can be plugged into the existing circuit board and be charged from the origional charging system/plug, and enjoy a long, happy life doing its work. Thank you MUCH for the time you've taken to design and KZread post a solution providing an alternative using a more reasonable $50 to $100 battery to being forced to purchase a battery proving lesser service for 15 to 30 times the cost. SmartDrive is a finely designed product. Their product and battery costs however significantly gouge those who are unfortunate to be mobility handicapped as well as the insurance companies or uninsured people that are seeking a way to be mobile without wearing out their shoulders in the process. I look forward to your response and/or any knowledgeable answer posted.
The accessory wires and plug are separate from the charge circuit. I don't see any issue with the splice and connect as shown in this video. The original battery should have 3 connectors. One to the charge port, one that supplies power to the circuit board (heavy wires) and the rectangular RS232 from the BMS to the main controller. The hoverboard battery does not have a separate charge and power from the BMS so the charge and power plugs need to be connected in parallel as shown.
Good Morning Jeff, Wow! thank You for a fast and helpful response to my question. I will complete the new battery installation today. Thank You again for your consideration in finding and YouTubing a solution for wheel Chair users who cannot pay $1,600 for a battery that with a simple modification can be replaced for $50 to $100. Best Regards - Mike C.
Thank you!!!!!!! I was able to save a "broken" unit. These companies are insane charging what they charge and even absolutely refusing service if you are not the registered user.
Awesome. I have the same mx2 from max mobility in 2016 recently the battery finally died, and i didn't want to pay 1500 for a new battery. Permobil said I needed to update my mx2 with mx2+ technology, but I wanted to use my old school Bluetooth wristband. They said it wouldn't work. So I told them I'll just get a new mx2+ and swap the batteries. lol they said the batteries in the mx2+ are not compatible with the old mx2. I didn't believe them but my insurance would pay 100% for a new mx2+. Soon as I got it I opened it up to discover they are the exact same battery. Now my old mx2 is perfect and I have a box of spare parts from the new mx2+. LoL
Thanks for verifying the batterie are the same. I found parts diagrams that gave the same part number but your information means the numbers actually mean the same battery! I also have an MX2 and and MX2+ and the batteries had the same number when I took them apart. The MX2+ app on the Iwatch actually has an MX2 mode so it uses the MX2 push sensing rather than the MX2+ double tap to start, single tap set, and double tap stop.
Hi Jeff, my son uses an MX2 for years and depends on it. Recently battery has decreased capacity. I bought a used one on eBay to refurbish as I didn't want to mess up his existing one. I also bought a replacement battery there from Europe for $500. I replaced it and it worked for awhile then stopped working. Wrist band is connected, motor will not kick in when chair is pushed. The unit has an older serial #, so according to permobil r 232 should not be connected but old and replacement batteries have cable for RS 232. Do you think connecting the rs232 could be the problem ? Have you found anyone to replace the cells in the battery?
When you say the wrist band is connected I'm assuming when the MX2 and wrist band are powered on the LED on the wrist band blinks blue about 1 time each second. This indicates a solid connection. The RS232 should not have any effect on the function of the MX2 other than you will not get battery error information. If you want to make sure it's not the RS232 just remove the handle (only to make it easier to sit it upside down) then the six screws that hold the bottom on. The RS232 connector can be unplugged with a fingernail. Re-assemble and mount on chair to test. Are you testing the unit mounted on the chair in normal orientation and with a smooth push? The unit needs to be at approximately the operating angle and handle up to function. I've also had issues if I run the wrist band loose because I push and the wrist band detects the wrist band hitting my wrist as a stop tap. I have not found anyone in the US to change cells other than the manufacturer. The US has many attorneys that like to file suit against anyone for any reason. Most people will not work on a medical device due to liability issues. I have built other battery packs successfully but I have not been able to do this one. I purchased quality cells the same capacity as the originals, welded them properly with nickel flat wire, connected the 13 BMS leads by soldering with high temperature (850F) for very short duration. I verified voltages pin to pin on the 13 pin BMS connector and all cells were within .01 volts but it still burned up the BMS as soon as I plugged in the connector. That's when I gave up and put the hoverboard battery inside.
Thanks. According to the Permobil smartdrive battery replacement video, lower serial numbers do not use the battery connection to RS232. I'm not sure what that means.
@@jvv8950 Sorry for my slow response. I just read your comment. RS232 is a basic serial communication protocol. It's most often used on computer with a 9 pin VGA port to communicate with peripheral devices. The cable with the small wires running from the battery pack to the board communicates the status of the battery pack to the main board. The earlier drives do not use this communication connection according to Permobil.
I was able to rebuild my pack for $ 180 Canadian getting them from 18650 Battery store , but you need access to spot welder for the nickel strips you also need . Did you mention scooter battery .
If you found my channel, mine is better solution. As good as original pack, runs for 4 km and still show 3 led.
18650 may have 3.7v The original is 3.2/3.3v
How is it holding up?
All good so far...
Nice.. I’m going to try to do this to a friends of mine’s smartdrive. He probably used it once and didn’t use it much after that and apparently the battery got messed up. Which is crazy . Thank you for the reply.
Hello do you happen to have the link for the hover board battery thanks.
Wondering the same!
@@brittanygamblin739 in his other video he has the specs of the battery .. you can google it and find it.
We played 😊❤❤
Very nicely done! Cheers!
Excellent, just watched your other video, this one will be perfect for my used mx2+
Thanks for this great video. I just bought a used mx2+, now I don't have to worry about if the battery is DOA or not. This looks like a quick easy upgrade, thanks again!
Yes this video is 8 yrs old,at the time Jeff did not know how to remove the Altitude Adjuster,this could have saved him some time,to remove the Adjuster remove the drain screw just below the Adjuster,then turn the Adjuster to locate the stops on the back of the Adjuster,with a pair of needle nose pliers break off the plastic stops,now you can turn the Adjuster counter clockwise to remove the Adjuster,now you can clean the needle and orifice without removing the solenoid and float bowl. When removing just make sure you count the number of turns to remove the Adjuster,then after cleaning replace the Adjuster with the same amount of turns.
Can i get the information on the hoverboard battery?
I used a 36 volt 4.4AH (4400mAh) 20 cell (10S-2P) with outside dimensions of 135X70X60 millimeters. Some descriptions will say 135X75X60 which will still fit. There are many options on Amazon or eBay.
I knew someone would finally put a different less expensive battery in one of these. Amazing how $1500 is what they want for a battery. My buddy and I were going to buy to lipos for an RC rock crawler and adapt them to power a smart drive power assist. We can charge them on special chargers that balance the cells.
Thank you for the video. My generator surges when idealing. When I put a load on, it smooths out and runs fine. Any advice please?
As a last resort, I carefully pried the black plastic knob off, and was able to unscrew the needle and clean the passage in the float bowl. I left the knob off, and adjust the screw in until the engine runs rough, and then back out 1/2 turn or so. Just like you would on a car or motorcycle. Instantly ran perfect.
Hey Jeff mine has a new carb and it surges, could it be the choke adjustment?
You love doing that sort of thing ❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
❤❤❤you doing what younlike .
Hi Jeff, I'm writing from Italy...nice to meet you. I've got an Onan Generator Microlite 2.0 Genset(very similar to your one...the only difference is the power it generates, here in Italy we need 220Volts). I'm asking you, please, if you think that the carburetor mounted on mine could be the same of your(as a spare parts)...what do you think, please? Many thanks for any reply you can and for the well explaing video...ciao Ricky
A perfect instruction with no fanfare!
How do you turn the machine off, do you hold the switch on off for a prolonged period?
"no wires hanging out" you say this like it's a bad thing. 😂
They’re over $300 now. I’m going for an Onan vs the Chinese one on your recommendation, plus the principle. Thanks for a great video
Thanks Jeff! I just did mine based on your video. I also installed a manual fuel shut off valve for the long periods of non use. Happy to say it is running like a champ now.
Where did you buy your carburetor? The very cheapest I have found is $300.
Looks amazing! You need a vid of the thing running around.
First
What does it do?
update: tried 2 knockoff carbs from amazon neither worked. bought a gallon of carb soak for oreileys' and soaked the oem carb for 25 min. sprayed with water and then blew with air. this oem carb was ultrsonic cleaned before by me and it did not work but after soaking it did...........used the foam from one aftermarked with silicone to glue it and took off one spacer between carb and pipe that mounts to engine. I cut with my makita the metal on that pipe along with one spacer off and could bolt the carb to pipe and get the whole assemble in the space.................rpm s seem high but the carb is starting and starting from the panel inside the rialta............used the after market bowl and needle and used the needle but used the oem float.................hey, it works......................hope this helps someone
Love all you’re toys Jeff. I’m a C5/6 myself. Can you make a video of the homemade wheelchair for the dunes. I’ve seen It on the background of several of your videos. Thanks 🙏 Have a great day
Thanks for vedio, did same and found jet stuck in hole had to really clean her up and after I finally got altitude mixture screw set to running state and it took awhile but she finally ran smooth I knew I had it and popped the plastic turn marker in place now I know altmanator was dead on to my 500' altitude. Load hardly makes I studder
Frist off thanks so much you did a nice job filming. I pulled mine off like you did before I watched your video, but watched to replace torn the black foam a little................ultrasonic for 1 hr no luck.............buying one from amazon with shut off.....hoping for best. I would like to cut the filter bracket out and mount the filter directly to the carb. but not sure how and may not........but w/o that bracket it would be so much easier..............if you ask me it is a bad design.........
Am dizzy after watching. Good video even with shaky camera.
Trying to set up speed front light bar which is 288 W That’s about 24 A I’m confused when you said run a pilot wire what do you mean by pilot
Great video. Fixed my issues. Thanks 🥹
Still works for the Cummins Onan QG 4000 EVAP generator.
Thank you for great video.
Great video man but I think I would rather just place the carb with a cheap Amazon carb and save myself some time. and put up fuel shut off before the carburetor suck it run it dry
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
This is how I fixed mine. In the case of: "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in my RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker (ON) at front RV engine compartment for current, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay runing only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old tricks) it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats. Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion. For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Eny engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding. After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover and done!!! If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!