I would definitely say you can use it for that. Might be a little oversized but that never hurts anything. This one Can definitely be used for up to 1/8th scale so 1/16th no problem. I’ve been grinding on this ramp with only one resurface for 7 years now. Mostly i jump a 1/8th scale kraton exb or 1/10th scale Arrma, losi, team associated vehicles.
@NicolaiLab19 күн бұрын
1) Voltage drop is a really bad indicator. In an ideal world there will not be any drop at all. In the real world our batteries have internal resistance. This resistance causes voltage drop proportional to current. Different batteries can have different resistance, the same battery will degrade over time and internal resistance will change. It is really hard to compare apples to apples using this method. Best option to measure power(voltage + current). 2) To compare efficiency you need to know power consumption at THE SAME SPEED. E = mv^2. To speed up the car twice, we need four times more energy. To maintain this speed we also need more than twice more energy. Of course faster setup will consume more energy from the battery. But it tells NOTHING about which setup is more efficient. A more efficient setup will consume less power at the same speed.
@mandismith8927 күн бұрын
my friend took my senton apart removing motor and rear diff and ive now got to put it back together and ive got a rubber ring that i dont know where it goes
@milehighspeedrc841227 күн бұрын
Not many rubber gaskets on these cars, as rubber gaskets are good for only sealing things up. So, probably came out of the differential thats full of fluid. Been a long while since i worked on a blx diff but seems like there is a large gasket that rings the differential housing that seals when you put the two sides of the diff together. If its roughly matches the size of the diff housing thats probably your spot. Otherwise, if it’s smaller it is likely the ones that seal where the diff cups poke through the diff housing.
@JesseBlumАй бұрын
Sadly today may 2024 this is $200 crazy
@milehighspeedrc8412Ай бұрын
Good lord thats insane. Inflation is out of control but for such basic building materials thats almost unimaginable. Im glad the ramp lasts a long time cause i certainly wouldn’t build another at those costs
@JesseBlumАй бұрын
@milehighspeedrc8412 ya the cheapest plywood I can find is $48 and that's just to cheap of a wood. The one that's $75-90 would do
@NKPGarageАй бұрын
Great little tutorial for an easy build. My 11yr old son wants to build one for his Traxxas Sledge, and this will be perfect. Thanks for putting this video together.
@rust1eronblitzrussia542Ай бұрын
Dang a sledge for an 11 year old. Lucky boy
@NKPGarageАй бұрын
@@rust1eronblitzrussia542 he is definitely a lucky kid. I wish I had what he does at my age. All we had was sticks we would try to set on fire in the woods.
@milehighspeedrc8412Ай бұрын
Enjoy. Hope he has fun and doesn’t run the meter on parts cause even with a durable piece of kit like the sledge, jumping is hard on the wallet!!
@thecarter70252 ай бұрын
Pro. Ty sir
@alanbunger88422 ай бұрын
Would 1/2" particle board work?
@greggbarela38952 ай бұрын
I’m 47 years old and received as a Christmas present in early 90s still need a speed controller and I’ll be on the road been in the box for about 20+ years almost the same situation looking forward to getting it going
@rc-fannl73642 ай бұрын
Nice vintage specimen
@ernestoescasena71162 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing...was a real nice video
@acceler8n2 ай бұрын
Very clear explanation! 👍🏾 Ive watched many videos on this topic and after watching your video, I will stop. Thank you!
@reneledz3 ай бұрын
I have a Arma Mojave 4s so can I run a 17t to my spur gear? It comes with a 16t right now.
@milehighspeedrc84122 ай бұрын
Of course. Go for it. But whether thats the right gearing or makes sense is up to what you are trying to do.
@cristianionut76153 ай бұрын
Thx man!
@andymerc190E3 ай бұрын
I just bought my first Arrma and after doing extensive research the problem is from the weight of the motor pulling down when landing hard on all fours. Now I've scavenged the net and have found a solution on Amazon. There's a motor brace that gets installed under the motor in order to prevent the downwards pulling motion. Thus not bending the motor mount
@milehighspeedrc84123 ай бұрын
Yep, very common issue as well, and as you note, folks have come up with some creative solutions. Some folks have some good aftermarket 3d printed supports, I use an art gum eraser carved out with the shape of the motor. Once you install your support, and if you keep bashing hard, you may still get bending however. Thats what happened with me. The continued bend will be cause by the thrusting torque described here. With your support underneath and the screws shown here though, you should be able to send it without issues. 👍
@rccarloverluxembourg7183 ай бұрын
acceleration for me meant how fast there is speed on the wheel and in high gear, the wheel began to turn very fast so I did not understand why in high gear there was written "I accelerate very slow it takes me a while to get up to speed" there I said "No" look how fast the wheel is turning, then I went back to the beginning, watched again from start, then concentrated on the leveller and then I understood that it rotates much more slower...so my conclusion is that only with the resistance of the bike sat on the ground, one could say in high gear that ""I accelerate very slowly and it takes me a while to get up to speed". Low gear = low high speed. High gear = high final speed. Like this I will remember it. Fantastic visual and understanding video.
@ShonMorgenrood3 ай бұрын
Appreciate your video man. Helped me a lot with this second hand Typhon we got off marketplace
@milehighspeedrc84123 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful
@glaanon42253 ай бұрын
Absolutely wrong, they do not mess correctly!
@FelipeFerreira-iq4bg4 ай бұрын
Should you incorporate your differential ratio into FDR?
@milehighspeedrc84123 ай бұрын
The FDR is inclusive of the differential ratios.
@strhhswgter4 ай бұрын
Great video.
@archerash66954 ай бұрын
Music is to loud.
@davidzizelman20614 ай бұрын
Awesome video. Have 2 typhons and a vortex in line on the bench. Doing all diffs and shocks for the first time. Wish I watched this 2 weeks ago. Just finished the vortex and removed the whole front and rear to get the diff out. Oh well. Will make the typhons easier. Thanks for making such a great video!
@milehighspeedrc84123 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful. Happy RC-ing
@gutenbird4 ай бұрын
Thanks. Great explanation.
@milehighspeedrc84123 ай бұрын
You're welcome!
@gilleblanc73814 ай бұрын
I just got my first car, a Typhon and after first use (didn't even kill the battery), I am getting a loud clicking noise as if a gear or something similar is not meshing as it should and it started whining a bit just prior. Don't know why it happened, but it is and it was during second use this happened. Besides for noise, it still works but I won't run it. I have no idea what it is but waht was looking for a great video to be able to tear car apart and yet be able to get it back together.Your video and explanation is fantastic for tear down and getting it back together. Thank you.
@milehighspeedrc84124 ай бұрын
Appreciated. I hope you can solve the concern on ur vehicle. Obviously a new car shouldn’t be giving you such issues. With these cars and the power they have it is best to try and identify and fix and not just “power through”. To identify just strategically remove parts along the drive train till you find it. For example, remove the center shaft and test. That will tell you if its front or back. Then you can remove axels and determine if its in the gear box or out near wheels. remove left vs right components etc… and eventually you’ll track it down. If you hit any snags be happy to help, just drop a line.
@dailyroejoganclips.5 ай бұрын
what pinion would be good with a 60 tooth spur?
@luise.hernandez45485 ай бұрын
Loved how you explained everything GREAT VIDEO. Thanks
@lf51335 ай бұрын
Some great information here but trying to hear over the music was a less than pleasant experience. Like trying to have a conversation with the radio volume up to loud. I don’t know why KZreadrs do this.
@MrRj600rr5 ай бұрын
Omg I need this. Thank you
@erikl10036 ай бұрын
Spot on!😢
@dirtrider886 ай бұрын
4:30 thats a bullshit method that depends on a lot of things the biggest being how strong your motor (magnets) are and how quick you pull it , oh and what kind of paper. 4:56 not a flick but yes thats the best way.
@ubreakitirepairit35697 ай бұрын
Doesn't make sense to me. That simply stops the entire gearbox assembly from having any forward movement within the slot it sits in. That still wouldn't stop the motor itself from having any side to side or up and down movement. Maybe you've just been getting lucky since you've done this, and it has yet to happen. After I bent my motor mount 2-3 times across different RC cars, I straightened out the mount, and then put one of those self stick furniture floor protector pads, that are about the size of a nickel, under the back (wire side) of the motor. On another note, this was happening to me when I was sending my 3S & 4S cars about 15 feet in the air.
@milehighspeedrc84126 ай бұрын
Your second sentence is on the right track. These do stop the gearbox module from trying to slide forward in the slots. The key is, these screws are on the outside or ends of the module and thats what your trying to pin down. The module assembly is already “pinned/fixed” in the middle by the drive shaft. That shaft acts as a brace or anchor for the middle of that module keeping the assembly from sliding forward there, but the ends are free to slide forward if enough force is applied. The weight of the motor can thrust forward in a big crash and be that force. When you take a big tumble the whole assembly wants to slide forward, the middle cant, but the ends can and the heavy weight of the motor adds to the “moment arm” effect. The motor will thrust the end of the motor plate forward while the center is pinned, and your motor plate will bend. This solution stops that type of bend by keeping the ends from sliding forward while the middle is already anchored. This type of bend mostly comes from high speed crashes 70mph+ or huge jumps that aren’t landed, 50 plus feet and over 10 feet high. You are correct that another more common type of bend comes from the motors “up and down” force on the plate since it’s hanging there suspended off the plate. Your solution is a good one, as is any that fills that gap between motor and chassis so its not hanging there. Lot of people including myself solved that in various ways (got mine from a guy who makes 3D printer “motor cradles”) but were still getting the first type of bend.
@nobody6177 ай бұрын
In the end, always expensive
@cliffcampbell88277 ай бұрын
So a pinion gear with a 48 pitch is compatible with a spur gear with a 0.5288 module?
@milehighspeedrc84127 ай бұрын
Yes, 48 pitch is .5288 module. They are one and the same. 48 pitch is used by a number of manufacturers for 1/10 scale vehicles. (And is sometimes referred to as .5 mod…but almost always 48p). Unfortunately .6 mod is also utilized by some manufacturers and those are not compatible with 48 pitch ( .5 mod). They ( .6mod and 48p) look almost identical as they are close but they will not mesh. The only two pitch/mod combinations which are different but yet compatible are 32p and .8 mod.
@lanyburnett79667 ай бұрын
So why would someone use a pinion gear that has more teeth than another? (Or vise versa). For example, my xmaxx comes with 18 tooth pinion stock. Why would someone drop to 15, or increase to 20?
@creditrazer9817 ай бұрын
Need a good video, in regards to the Electronics. Binding / Calibrating DX3 to ESC, Endpoint Settings, etc. I had issues with having NO reverse, could never sort it out.
@milehighspeedrc84127 ай бұрын
This one is pretty good. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qaGEw9aOkdmYmNo.htmlsi=-8WL3FZ6LhKZGSAJ
@creditrazer9817 ай бұрын
So far I have $1950 in my $329 Typhon 3S...Upgrades! If knew then, what I know now, would just went 8S Kraton. However, my 3S Typhon will stomp every 8S i see at a track, everyday
@milehighspeedrc84127 ай бұрын
Sounds like you might have blown away all the data that went into my video on the true cost of owning rc cars.😂. That thing must be fun to drive.
@ocelee77947 ай бұрын
Nice and details video! But I do hope you can solve the low volume, because i had to turn the volume to max to hear you, but when an advertisement come, the volume would become so loud that hurts my ears. So imagine how many times I need to adjust the volume while watching your video.
@Mr.Titanium19118 ай бұрын
I’ve been into RC since 1997. Blew lots of money on this hobby but I have no regrets as it keeps me out of trouble.
@rcarty4198 ай бұрын
The the Kraton verybnkce dude!!!
@rcarty4198 ай бұрын
Wow that is sick!! Making me feel good about my buying this rig! Haven’t run it yet but damn!! That is I was e testing dude!!
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
Typhon flies like an airplane. But watch out for bad landings😂: Huge air / Huge destruction - Typhon 3s RC car split in half kzread.info/dash/bejne/qqthy7iClqmThaw.html
@markmccullough68738 ай бұрын
good info my man.thats why i buy used .great for a budget.see you on the next one.
@stevensaid22008 ай бұрын
I primarily bash but I do have a crawler. If I had to guess I’d say I’ve prolly put the price of 2 8s cars in my 6s kraton. Bathers are a money sink, unless you don’t actually bash it. If you don’t have money to light on fire then don’t get into bashing. Now my crawler is good old reliable, breaks maybe once a year if that. If I was on a budget I would stick with crawling only probably.
@polishguywithhardtospellna82278 ай бұрын
Thank you for a very comprehensive analisys.
@maszkalman36768 ай бұрын
Very detailed and thoguht out video except your shared costs parts that are replaced or electronics put in can't be on the shared costs you don't just swap the parts and electronics in and out all of your cars in worknig condition so the parts put in is out of the shared parts basically forever so the shared cost category if exist should be higher or in case of parts that stays in the car should be nonexistent. *edit* also you should show the base price that tiem you got them so peopels can be more easily compare them costs of each car because a low price car 300% spending would be still more affordable than the expensive car's 170% plus money spent on it.... without base price it's meaningless.
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
The parts category was never shared between vehicles. A replacement part is tracked only under that specific car and never shared. The overall cost increase of the car when you reach this category did have a shared value noted, due to the “needed to run” category creating shared costs, but parts were never shared. Parts category alone for each car averaged about 40% increase over the cars. Electronics were a little trickier to assign. The only two vehicles that didnt come with electronics were the optima and the kraton. Motor/esc and one 3s battery were added exclusively to the kraton as the electronics are not used in other vehicles (too big and powerful). The receiver/transmitter/and 2nd 3s battery were tracked as shared however as those can be used across all cars. All electronics in the optima were tracked as shared because everything used there can be used in other cars or taken from other cars except the 2s battery, which i dont use anywhere else so that got assigned solely to the optima. Any other electronics purchased are all in the hop ups category and tracked as single ownership manner and also in the shared manner. You can absolutely share electronics across vehicles, I swamp electronics in and out of cars all the time.
@maszkalman36768 ай бұрын
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Ah so you though out all of these then your assesments are quite on point...
@polishguywithhardtospellna82278 ай бұрын
I would also argue with your points of view, by saying this: if im o a tight budget, but own a brushless basher, i might get a well price or used roller of a short course truck or a buggy, to swap all Electronic and ha a season of different kind of fun, on track racing. In my case, i have a 2wd e-firestorm. It gets stuck on grass a lot. Dislike 2wd with no tracks around. I might sell it as a roller and keep electronics for a new 4wd roller. Or keep that invested 2wd as a spare roller, if i ever decide to race outside my area
@Rek_Rc8 ай бұрын
Great video! I'm not that smart on my channel, just loud.
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
I love it. Sometimes loud and simple is better:)
@BoondockStryker8 ай бұрын
Can you tell me the exact formula you used to get 12.11 average cell voltage.
@BoondockStryker8 ай бұрын
(((act MPH/Tire circ)*FDR/60))/KVA(kv*voltage) this formula doesn’t work don’t know what is wrong
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
The formula is shown in the bottom left at mark 19:19 of the video. What you have here seems right, however there can be circular references that sometimes cause issues if some of the cells you utilize have a different Calc method. For example on the kva, I don’t use a formula (kv*voltage) to get that I simple had a whole chart of hard input kva’s that are referred…otherwise some circular references may occur.
@SnarkyRC8 ай бұрын
Prices can get up there. I've been in the hobby for over 35 years. I probably have thousands in RCs and that's just my crawlers. I also have touring cars, bashers, racing trucks, handmade boats and drift cars lol.
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
Wow, I’d love to see your garage! I try to only keep about 6-8 cars on hand at a time max. Overwhelms me otherwise. Once i reach that limit i’ll sell off cars i dont use as much or don’t like.
@bestamerica8 ай бұрын
' no wonder why american company dont want to make their own any R/C systems and hobbys models
@BASSstarlet8 ай бұрын
Baby is sleeping?
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
perhaps referencing low audio volume? others have noted as well. wish i could fix it for ya. Unfortunately everything is fine on creation of the videos on my end and then when uploading to youtube they get clipped down for whatever reason. I've read this is a common issue of youtube, and shockingly there is no fix that youtube allows. Once a video is up, its up, no adjustments. All sorts of people have comments about bit rates, audio mix, equal curves blah blah. I'm not a professional video editor or someone trying to make a living on youtube. i do it for fun with my daughter. I don't have time for all that and its sad that youtube has become so complex that simple audio adjustment is not an option and more and more they only seem to cater to high end users with tons of tech behind them. Ordinary folks posting for fun like me end up with quiet videos i guess.
@barbedwirerat6618 ай бұрын
I tracked my upgrade costs on a few RCs and learned that I should pretty much expect to pay an additional 50% on upgrades over the retail price of the RC. Actually had one car I was 100% over and a buggy that was 123% over! I buy RTRs and enjoy adding upgrades both for functional and aesthetic reasons. These tend to be chassis upgrades mostly though I do find myself replacing some of the electronics, usually steering servos and receivers. It is not that all these upgrades are necessary, it is just what I wanted to have on the vehicle. I recently picked up the brushless Rival MT10 for $340, really tried to keep the upgrades to just bare minimum necessary items to reasonably support running 3S as well as a new receiver to bind it to a Spektrum transmitter. So I'm right about at $100 on upgrades. I guess that is putting me about 30% over on this truck that I was trying not to spend so much on LOL!
@milehighspeedrc84128 ай бұрын
awesome. glad to hear there is another money tracker like me out there:) thanks for sharing. i was able to pick up my MT10 brushed for $269 on sale and given i have about 7 other electronic set ups to drop in it was great. but funny thing about this analysis is: the cheaper you get the car to begin with, the worse the increase percentages are!!
@pitbulloncr4ck8 ай бұрын
Wow, nice research… really great to break it down!
Пікірлер
Is this for 1/16 scale RWD?
I would definitely say you can use it for that. Might be a little oversized but that never hurts anything. This one Can definitely be used for up to 1/8th scale so 1/16th no problem. I’ve been grinding on this ramp with only one resurface for 7 years now. Mostly i jump a 1/8th scale kraton exb or 1/10th scale Arrma, losi, team associated vehicles.
1) Voltage drop is a really bad indicator. In an ideal world there will not be any drop at all. In the real world our batteries have internal resistance. This resistance causes voltage drop proportional to current. Different batteries can have different resistance, the same battery will degrade over time and internal resistance will change. It is really hard to compare apples to apples using this method. Best option to measure power(voltage + current). 2) To compare efficiency you need to know power consumption at THE SAME SPEED. E = mv^2. To speed up the car twice, we need four times more energy. To maintain this speed we also need more than twice more energy. Of course faster setup will consume more energy from the battery. But it tells NOTHING about which setup is more efficient. A more efficient setup will consume less power at the same speed.
my friend took my senton apart removing motor and rear diff and ive now got to put it back together and ive got a rubber ring that i dont know where it goes
Not many rubber gaskets on these cars, as rubber gaskets are good for only sealing things up. So, probably came out of the differential thats full of fluid. Been a long while since i worked on a blx diff but seems like there is a large gasket that rings the differential housing that seals when you put the two sides of the diff together. If its roughly matches the size of the diff housing thats probably your spot. Otherwise, if it’s smaller it is likely the ones that seal where the diff cups poke through the diff housing.
Sadly today may 2024 this is $200 crazy
Good lord thats insane. Inflation is out of control but for such basic building materials thats almost unimaginable. Im glad the ramp lasts a long time cause i certainly wouldn’t build another at those costs
@milehighspeedrc8412 ya the cheapest plywood I can find is $48 and that's just to cheap of a wood. The one that's $75-90 would do
Great little tutorial for an easy build. My 11yr old son wants to build one for his Traxxas Sledge, and this will be perfect. Thanks for putting this video together.
Dang a sledge for an 11 year old. Lucky boy
@@rust1eronblitzrussia542 he is definitely a lucky kid. I wish I had what he does at my age. All we had was sticks we would try to set on fire in the woods.
Enjoy. Hope he has fun and doesn’t run the meter on parts cause even with a durable piece of kit like the sledge, jumping is hard on the wallet!!
Pro. Ty sir
Would 1/2" particle board work?
I’m 47 years old and received as a Christmas present in early 90s still need a speed controller and I’ll be on the road been in the box for about 20+ years almost the same situation looking forward to getting it going
Nice vintage specimen
Thanks for sharing...was a real nice video
Very clear explanation! 👍🏾 Ive watched many videos on this topic and after watching your video, I will stop. Thank you!
I have a Arma Mojave 4s so can I run a 17t to my spur gear? It comes with a 16t right now.
Of course. Go for it. But whether thats the right gearing or makes sense is up to what you are trying to do.
Thx man!
I just bought my first Arrma and after doing extensive research the problem is from the weight of the motor pulling down when landing hard on all fours. Now I've scavenged the net and have found a solution on Amazon. There's a motor brace that gets installed under the motor in order to prevent the downwards pulling motion. Thus not bending the motor mount
Yep, very common issue as well, and as you note, folks have come up with some creative solutions. Some folks have some good aftermarket 3d printed supports, I use an art gum eraser carved out with the shape of the motor. Once you install your support, and if you keep bashing hard, you may still get bending however. Thats what happened with me. The continued bend will be cause by the thrusting torque described here. With your support underneath and the screws shown here though, you should be able to send it without issues. 👍
acceleration for me meant how fast there is speed on the wheel and in high gear, the wheel began to turn very fast so I did not understand why in high gear there was written "I accelerate very slow it takes me a while to get up to speed" there I said "No" look how fast the wheel is turning, then I went back to the beginning, watched again from start, then concentrated on the leveller and then I understood that it rotates much more slower...so my conclusion is that only with the resistance of the bike sat on the ground, one could say in high gear that ""I accelerate very slowly and it takes me a while to get up to speed". Low gear = low high speed. High gear = high final speed. Like this I will remember it. Fantastic visual and understanding video.
Appreciate your video man. Helped me a lot with this second hand Typhon we got off marketplace
Glad it was helpful
Absolutely wrong, they do not mess correctly!
Should you incorporate your differential ratio into FDR?
The FDR is inclusive of the differential ratios.
Great video.
Music is to loud.
Awesome video. Have 2 typhons and a vortex in line on the bench. Doing all diffs and shocks for the first time. Wish I watched this 2 weeks ago. Just finished the vortex and removed the whole front and rear to get the diff out. Oh well. Will make the typhons easier. Thanks for making such a great video!
Glad it was helpful. Happy RC-ing
Thanks. Great explanation.
You're welcome!
I just got my first car, a Typhon and after first use (didn't even kill the battery), I am getting a loud clicking noise as if a gear or something similar is not meshing as it should and it started whining a bit just prior. Don't know why it happened, but it is and it was during second use this happened. Besides for noise, it still works but I won't run it. I have no idea what it is but waht was looking for a great video to be able to tear car apart and yet be able to get it back together.Your video and explanation is fantastic for tear down and getting it back together. Thank you.
Appreciated. I hope you can solve the concern on ur vehicle. Obviously a new car shouldn’t be giving you such issues. With these cars and the power they have it is best to try and identify and fix and not just “power through”. To identify just strategically remove parts along the drive train till you find it. For example, remove the center shaft and test. That will tell you if its front or back. Then you can remove axels and determine if its in the gear box or out near wheels. remove left vs right components etc… and eventually you’ll track it down. If you hit any snags be happy to help, just drop a line.
what pinion would be good with a 60 tooth spur?
Loved how you explained everything GREAT VIDEO. Thanks
Some great information here but trying to hear over the music was a less than pleasant experience. Like trying to have a conversation with the radio volume up to loud. I don’t know why KZreadrs do this.
Omg I need this. Thank you
Spot on!😢
4:30 thats a bullshit method that depends on a lot of things the biggest being how strong your motor (magnets) are and how quick you pull it , oh and what kind of paper. 4:56 not a flick but yes thats the best way.
Doesn't make sense to me. That simply stops the entire gearbox assembly from having any forward movement within the slot it sits in. That still wouldn't stop the motor itself from having any side to side or up and down movement. Maybe you've just been getting lucky since you've done this, and it has yet to happen. After I bent my motor mount 2-3 times across different RC cars, I straightened out the mount, and then put one of those self stick furniture floor protector pads, that are about the size of a nickel, under the back (wire side) of the motor. On another note, this was happening to me when I was sending my 3S & 4S cars about 15 feet in the air.
Your second sentence is on the right track. These do stop the gearbox module from trying to slide forward in the slots. The key is, these screws are on the outside or ends of the module and thats what your trying to pin down. The module assembly is already “pinned/fixed” in the middle by the drive shaft. That shaft acts as a brace or anchor for the middle of that module keeping the assembly from sliding forward there, but the ends are free to slide forward if enough force is applied. The weight of the motor can thrust forward in a big crash and be that force. When you take a big tumble the whole assembly wants to slide forward, the middle cant, but the ends can and the heavy weight of the motor adds to the “moment arm” effect. The motor will thrust the end of the motor plate forward while the center is pinned, and your motor plate will bend. This solution stops that type of bend by keeping the ends from sliding forward while the middle is already anchored. This type of bend mostly comes from high speed crashes 70mph+ or huge jumps that aren’t landed, 50 plus feet and over 10 feet high. You are correct that another more common type of bend comes from the motors “up and down” force on the plate since it’s hanging there suspended off the plate. Your solution is a good one, as is any that fills that gap between motor and chassis so its not hanging there. Lot of people including myself solved that in various ways (got mine from a guy who makes 3D printer “motor cradles”) but were still getting the first type of bend.
In the end, always expensive
So a pinion gear with a 48 pitch is compatible with a spur gear with a 0.5288 module?
Yes, 48 pitch is .5288 module. They are one and the same. 48 pitch is used by a number of manufacturers for 1/10 scale vehicles. (And is sometimes referred to as .5 mod…but almost always 48p). Unfortunately .6 mod is also utilized by some manufacturers and those are not compatible with 48 pitch ( .5 mod). They ( .6mod and 48p) look almost identical as they are close but they will not mesh. The only two pitch/mod combinations which are different but yet compatible are 32p and .8 mod.
So why would someone use a pinion gear that has more teeth than another? (Or vise versa). For example, my xmaxx comes with 18 tooth pinion stock. Why would someone drop to 15, or increase to 20?
Need a good video, in regards to the Electronics. Binding / Calibrating DX3 to ESC, Endpoint Settings, etc. I had issues with having NO reverse, could never sort it out.
This one is pretty good. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qaGEw9aOkdmYmNo.htmlsi=-8WL3FZ6LhKZGSAJ
So far I have $1950 in my $329 Typhon 3S...Upgrades! If knew then, what I know now, would just went 8S Kraton. However, my 3S Typhon will stomp every 8S i see at a track, everyday
Sounds like you might have blown away all the data that went into my video on the true cost of owning rc cars.😂. That thing must be fun to drive.
Nice and details video! But I do hope you can solve the low volume, because i had to turn the volume to max to hear you, but when an advertisement come, the volume would become so loud that hurts my ears. So imagine how many times I need to adjust the volume while watching your video.
I’ve been into RC since 1997. Blew lots of money on this hobby but I have no regrets as it keeps me out of trouble.
The the Kraton verybnkce dude!!!
Wow that is sick!! Making me feel good about my buying this rig! Haven’t run it yet but damn!! That is I was e testing dude!!
Typhon flies like an airplane. But watch out for bad landings😂: Huge air / Huge destruction - Typhon 3s RC car split in half kzread.info/dash/bejne/qqthy7iClqmThaw.html
good info my man.thats why i buy used .great for a budget.see you on the next one.
I primarily bash but I do have a crawler. If I had to guess I’d say I’ve prolly put the price of 2 8s cars in my 6s kraton. Bathers are a money sink, unless you don’t actually bash it. If you don’t have money to light on fire then don’t get into bashing. Now my crawler is good old reliable, breaks maybe once a year if that. If I was on a budget I would stick with crawling only probably.
Thank you for a very comprehensive analisys.
Very detailed and thoguht out video except your shared costs parts that are replaced or electronics put in can't be on the shared costs you don't just swap the parts and electronics in and out all of your cars in worknig condition so the parts put in is out of the shared parts basically forever so the shared cost category if exist should be higher or in case of parts that stays in the car should be nonexistent. *edit* also you should show the base price that tiem you got them so peopels can be more easily compare them costs of each car because a low price car 300% spending would be still more affordable than the expensive car's 170% plus money spent on it.... without base price it's meaningless.
The parts category was never shared between vehicles. A replacement part is tracked only under that specific car and never shared. The overall cost increase of the car when you reach this category did have a shared value noted, due to the “needed to run” category creating shared costs, but parts were never shared. Parts category alone for each car averaged about 40% increase over the cars. Electronics were a little trickier to assign. The only two vehicles that didnt come with electronics were the optima and the kraton. Motor/esc and one 3s battery were added exclusively to the kraton as the electronics are not used in other vehicles (too big and powerful). The receiver/transmitter/and 2nd 3s battery were tracked as shared however as those can be used across all cars. All electronics in the optima were tracked as shared because everything used there can be used in other cars or taken from other cars except the 2s battery, which i dont use anywhere else so that got assigned solely to the optima. Any other electronics purchased are all in the hop ups category and tracked as single ownership manner and also in the shared manner. You can absolutely share electronics across vehicles, I swamp electronics in and out of cars all the time.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Ah so you though out all of these then your assesments are quite on point...
I would also argue with your points of view, by saying this: if im o a tight budget, but own a brushless basher, i might get a well price or used roller of a short course truck or a buggy, to swap all Electronic and ha a season of different kind of fun, on track racing. In my case, i have a 2wd e-firestorm. It gets stuck on grass a lot. Dislike 2wd with no tracks around. I might sell it as a roller and keep electronics for a new 4wd roller. Or keep that invested 2wd as a spare roller, if i ever decide to race outside my area
Great video! I'm not that smart on my channel, just loud.
I love it. Sometimes loud and simple is better:)
Can you tell me the exact formula you used to get 12.11 average cell voltage.
(((act MPH/Tire circ)*FDR/60))/KVA(kv*voltage) this formula doesn’t work don’t know what is wrong
The formula is shown in the bottom left at mark 19:19 of the video. What you have here seems right, however there can be circular references that sometimes cause issues if some of the cells you utilize have a different Calc method. For example on the kva, I don’t use a formula (kv*voltage) to get that I simple had a whole chart of hard input kva’s that are referred…otherwise some circular references may occur.
Prices can get up there. I've been in the hobby for over 35 years. I probably have thousands in RCs and that's just my crawlers. I also have touring cars, bashers, racing trucks, handmade boats and drift cars lol.
Wow, I’d love to see your garage! I try to only keep about 6-8 cars on hand at a time max. Overwhelms me otherwise. Once i reach that limit i’ll sell off cars i dont use as much or don’t like.
' no wonder why american company dont want to make their own any R/C systems and hobbys models
Baby is sleeping?
perhaps referencing low audio volume? others have noted as well. wish i could fix it for ya. Unfortunately everything is fine on creation of the videos on my end and then when uploading to youtube they get clipped down for whatever reason. I've read this is a common issue of youtube, and shockingly there is no fix that youtube allows. Once a video is up, its up, no adjustments. All sorts of people have comments about bit rates, audio mix, equal curves blah blah. I'm not a professional video editor or someone trying to make a living on youtube. i do it for fun with my daughter. I don't have time for all that and its sad that youtube has become so complex that simple audio adjustment is not an option and more and more they only seem to cater to high end users with tons of tech behind them. Ordinary folks posting for fun like me end up with quiet videos i guess.
I tracked my upgrade costs on a few RCs and learned that I should pretty much expect to pay an additional 50% on upgrades over the retail price of the RC. Actually had one car I was 100% over and a buggy that was 123% over! I buy RTRs and enjoy adding upgrades both for functional and aesthetic reasons. These tend to be chassis upgrades mostly though I do find myself replacing some of the electronics, usually steering servos and receivers. It is not that all these upgrades are necessary, it is just what I wanted to have on the vehicle. I recently picked up the brushless Rival MT10 for $340, really tried to keep the upgrades to just bare minimum necessary items to reasonably support running 3S as well as a new receiver to bind it to a Spektrum transmitter. So I'm right about at $100 on upgrades. I guess that is putting me about 30% over on this truck that I was trying not to spend so much on LOL!
awesome. glad to hear there is another money tracker like me out there:) thanks for sharing. i was able to pick up my MT10 brushed for $269 on sale and given i have about 7 other electronic set ups to drop in it was great. but funny thing about this analysis is: the cheaper you get the car to begin with, the worse the increase percentages are!!
Wow, nice research… really great to break it down!
Thank you!