My name is Wes Stanley and I love to build and fix things on my own. I rarely hire professionals, so that leaves me with a lot of projects. I always have multiple projects going at one time. I will also share a one year Bible reading plan and biblical studies about things I have learned throughout my life as I walk with God.
One of the things that has helped me the most is KZread. This channel is a way for me to give back and show people my projects and how I accomplished them. I am an amateur at everything you will see here so that is why we decided to call it “The Stanley Way.” If you want instructional videos then I must warn you that my way may not be the right way, hence the name.
Along the way you will meet my family and grow with us. We hope to be able to help people, make you laugh, or cause you to feel better about yourself because of my failures. Either way we hope you have a good time on our channel.
Пікірлер
Get it all in there im a cheap skate 😅
@@xboxice2005 😂
Thank you Sir! Great video-
@@jimmorton1169 thank you for watching and for commenting!
I got this thing but the worry of light no problem. Worry about the car tha hardly run and getting the engine hot that's worry to let me car in the middle of traffic
@@jmchennel1 if your engine is running rough and getting hot that means your catalytic converter is severely clogged. This will not fix it and Cataclean won’t either. You will have to replace the converter or at least remove it and clean it out physically, it is possible. It is also important to fix what is causing your converter to become clogged. Your engine could be running rich or burning oil causing the converter to clog. If you don’t have to have an inspection on your car, just remove the converter and put a straight pipe in its place.
I have a 2010 venza I get all those lights I replaced 2 front abs sensors and brake light switch has brake need brakes all around what could it be
@@riggoo14 it could be a number of things. Here are some things to check: Low brake fluid: Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it up if it's low. Malfunctioning ABS module: The ABS module may be faulty. The wheel speed sensors may be broken. The emergency brake may be left on or not properly adjusted. Sensor sensitivity: The ABS sensor may be too sensitive and activate for no reason. Blown fuse: If both the ABS light and the engine warning light are on, check the fuse. System turned off: The ABS system may be turned off. If all these are good then take it to a reputable shop. If you don’t have money for a shop, your brake fluid level is good, and it stops fine then drive it. The abs light on just means your computer turned the abs off which means your tires can lock up under heavy braking so drive carefully.
Thank you for doing this. I’m gonna try it too.
@@Jared_Albert you are welcome, thanks for watching.
It’s important to not leave that in your tank, drive it through and refill because it swells seals and can negatively impact many components. This is why using a product specifically for cleaning a catalytic converter is a much better option
Scotty is a bit overrated; mechanics worth their salt will not suggest something so risky, particularly when there are plenty of catalytic converter cleaner products out there which won’t swell your seals nearly as much as lacquer thinner does, plus many cost less too
Question: what position do the pins need to be in when you install? And how should the alignment with the actuator be? Mine works when I use the first time is hit the switches, but then it stops. When I removed it from the pins it then works-as if the alignment is off. So frustrating
@@pa4life there is no way I can tell you what position it should be in because the pins can move independently once the actuator is installed. What you can do is turn the fan on and move the pins to a known position. Example, move the pins until air is only coming out of the defrost vents. With the new actuator connected electrically, select defrost on the head unit. This will move the actuator into the defrost position. Now your pins and the actuator will be aligned for you to install the actuator.
@@TheStanleyWay good advice. I’ll try it
My vacuum line is broken near the firewall. I believe it is the one that connects to what I believe is the mode actuator. The hose shown in 19:20 of the video. Is there a way to access this hose to change it out completely without pulling the dash apart?
Did you mean 9:20? If so in order to replace the entire line I think you will have to pull the dash. But there is no need to replace the whole line if you see where it is broken. You can buy a rubber coupling that fits over the plastic vacuum lines. You can slip it over the broken portion and then add new lines as needed.
@@TheStanleyWay Yes I did mean 9:20. I did this in the past but the wear was near the firewall and it has since broken off flush with the firewall now.
@@TheKevinChaz gotcha, yeah you may have to pull the dash but I would take a look underneath first. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
was a great help for gose for sure in the all proces Thanks
@@alealbert4686 awesome, glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
excelent valued way to demostrate evrething related Thanks for vid clips like that Congratulations any way for be in volve in this kind the repairde needs Knowlege ......
@@alealbert4686 thank you!
I just attempted this, it sort of works. I’m driving a 12 ford fusion hybrid, it did kick the compressor on but you got to keep the fan on high and the other con was it made my car run poorly. The AC with this fix was pulling way too much power from the hybrid system. I went ahead and did the other shortcut thru the dash and cut a hole in the center console to get to the evap sensor, got it replaced with a new one. AC is running well and I don’t have to have the fan on high, way less power draw on the car. This is great if you’re in a pinch and you need AC for short trips. But definitely get the evap temp sensor swapped ASAP! Also once you place the center console back you don’t even see the hole you created to get to the sensor!
I have a 2011 ford fusion se v6 3.0l. I just put in New ac pipes supposedly they where leaking. Then had to put in a new ac compressor. Now the ac kicks on an off and when it kicks off it blows humid air. The car heats up with the ac on. I feel like this car is over rated for sure. When the compressor kicks off the car goes back to normal but when it kicks on an I'm idle it heats up when the ac kicks on. Funny thing is it doesn't do it when it is cooler outside. I have replaced the radiator fan 2 times, alternator, resistor ac, blower motor 2 times but fixn to replace it again. Replace the thermostat, Water pump. The ac compressor and hose and alternator had it done at shop. The rest I did. I heard that there could be a bubble in the ac line that's what would cause the car to heat up. Idk I'm over my car. Every year it's something.
@@heathermishra sorry to hear all the trouble you are having with it. When you say “the car heats up” are you saying the engine begins to overheat or it starts to get warm in the passenger compartment? If the passenger area is getting warm due to the compressor kicking off, the system may be over serviced with refrigerant. An overcharge will cause the pressure to get too high so the computer kicks the compressor off to protect the A/C system.
Thank you for the video! I had this exact same thing happen to me the other day.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Would this sensor be responsible for burning up the resistor?
I’m not sure what you mean.
@@TheStanleyWay There's a resister that is a common issue with the Ford Fusions on these models as well that the pigtail will burn up and cause similar issues. It connects to the blower motor just under the dash. You can't just replace the resistor you have to also replace the pigtail. I wonder if the sensor trying to push out a big electrical load is responsible for this issue?
@@midwestmutineer7675 oh I gotcha. I’m not sure. I was unaware of this issue. That could be why some people have weird symptoms that I haven’t been able to explain. I will keep this in mind the next time someone asks a question, thanks. There are definitely some serious electrical gremlins in these Fusions.
What’s the model of this sprinkler?
I don’t know the exact model number of this sprinkler head but all the rain bird rotors I have used all adjust the same. I do know it has 3/4” female threads on the bottom.
What pins are they on the sel?
I’m not sure on an SEL. Is it a different pin count? If it has the same pin count on the plug it will the same pins as this one.
Hi .. I have a crv can anyone of u folks tell me how to close the vents so that no air can blow ..
I’m not sure if this is what you mean but our CR-V has a wheel below the vents that you can turn left and right. The vent by the driver’s door is closed when the wheel is spun to the left. The one by the passenger door is off when spun towards the right. The vents in the middle do not have a shutoff, you can only redirect the air. I hope this helps.
@@TheStanleyWay thanx for the reply .. The crv i have doesnt have any wheels to turn on the vent like my old crv had .. Lol so every day i have to decide and choose airflow in my face or on my feet or both 🤣
@@viral-mania 😂 gotcha. I never noticed our center vents didn’t have a shutoff until you asked the question.
Hello, is the problem already solved now? Because I got the same issue with my 2014 Fiesta, it says the same thing (O2 sensor fault). But I'm not doing anything yet because the sensor is quite expensive here and I'm afraid it won't change anything. 😅
No it did not help the issue so don’t waste your money on a new sensor. I never did figure it out, I just dealt with it. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@TheStanleyWay Glad I asked it first. Thanks for the response, nice video mate.
@@raihanmjenar you are welcome and thank you!
The problem is 150 miles idk ugg
this is not changing fluid, this is mixing old fluid with new. While not a waste of time but pretty close.
😂
@@TheStanleyWay I have actually done your version as well, as you say "easy"...😁
Excellent video!! I have a 2012 Dodge Challenger with 30,000 miles on it. Red brake light, ABS, traction control Those three lights came on. and stay on , taking it to the shop Monday just your thoughts, is it a pretty good chance it is just a wheel sensor. Didn’t know if you had an opinion about these certain cars. Thank you ! You’re very clear and understanding in your videos.
Thanks! I don’t have any specific knowledge on Challengers. Hopefully that is warranty work with that low mileage. I would recommend scanning it with a scan tool before you take it in and write the codes down, knowledge is power. If you don’t have a scan tool an auto parts will do it for free. It could be a sensor and a scan will tell you that. Even if it is warranty work you still want to know the codes, it will help you learn for the future as well. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@TheStanleyWay Wow !! did not expect a response this late, you are the man and really appreciate it. The car is a 2012 so it’s 12 years old with low mileage no warranty but still being 12 years old I guess age is the factor . I agree I’m going to get a scan tool actually have a cheap one, but it only diagnose engine stuff such as emissions ect Praying it’s just a wheel sensor and nothing more serious.
@toxictube392n7 no problem. It is probably something simple. Wheel sensors will cause all of those lights to turn on at once. I hope you get it fixed quick and inexpensive.
So my compressor doesn't kick on but a relative did jumpstart it by connecting it directly to a battery or something? Idk but they said the compressor does come on, but the car isn't telling it to come on but not sure why. Could this be the problem? Or is this only a solution if the compressor is kicking on? Thanks!
If the compressor came on that is good news. Now that you know the compressor is working a number of things may keep the compressor from initiating. You could have a refrigerant leak. If so your compressor won’t come on because the low pressure switch is telling it not to. The best way to check is with a gauge set from Amazon or an auto parts store so you can read high and low pressures. If you don’t have a gauge set and don’t want to buy one you can get a 2 pound can of refrigerant from the auto parts store with a low pressure gauge attached to it. Connect this to your system and see what your system pressure is with the car off, it should be around 100 pounds if it is hot outside. If not, then it is low. Now start the engine and turn the A/C on. Add refrigerant as the instructions on the can say. Once pressure builds up, the compressor should come on. Once the system is running, then look at the pressure gauge on the can to see if you need more refrigerant. Add as needed and not too much.
To answer your question specifically, yes, this video is if your compressor is running and the A/C is hot. Here is another possible fix if you have a fusion. **Save $900** Easy 2006-2012 Ford Fusion Air Conditioner Fix! kzread.info/dash/bejne/X6Cgw5OTm8fSqZc.html
🚫🚫 Not helpful
😂
Actually, you did pretty good
Thanks!
That torsion bar isn't as scary as i thought it'd be. 😮 i that it would be under constant load like a coilover strut and explode apart if i didn't have the proper tools.
I agree. I like that you can relieve the tension with it still in the truck and then pull it out completely relaxed.
@TheStanleyWay i've been putting off replacing the bushings on the lca's on both sides. Trucks got almost 300k on the clock and still has the factory bushings under there and it's starting to feel super unsafe to drive because of how loose it is. Gonna need to do a whole front end rebuild.
@@spyker_aileron good luck. It’s not too bad of a job.
@TheStanleyWay thanks. Now that i know how to do the lca's it's more about money to buy the parts i need. 👍
Thanks my next project
Cool, good luck with it!
Lacquer thinner , spray bottle. Warm up engine. Remove bank one sensor , spray heavily into hole , spray sensor. Replace. Drive repeat. Better results tap cat with mallet while someone revs engine. Clean Mass Air and O2. Code stills shows screen is likely damaged in cat. Running Lacquer thinner in some engines could be catastrophic and cause more problems. Older car the better
Im not throwing codes, yet. When i hit over 3k rpms i get a smell in the car. Only smell it when the windows are down. Someone said it was dirty cats. I've run 2 bottles of cataclean and it seemed to help a little. Would the thinner be better?
I think it is better but that is up for debate. My neighbor just used Cataclean and it didn’t do anything but the lacquer thinner did. I would try it. I have personally used it on two vehicles with success and no issues.
Thank you
You are welcome!
Me personally i think its more effective to take the upstream sensor out and pour some in the converter, maybe about a pint or a little less and letting it sit for a bit
I’m sure it is. I have had so many comments talking about doing it that way I would like to try it next time.
stop talking so we can hear the sound lol
😂
🙏🇱🇰❤
I did the same to dodge Durango was having lot of problems was driving out of state and it took care of the problem saved$$$$$ it’s funny I used to live in enterprise and I worked a lot around Dothan plus the all up and down Florida panhandle but the bottom line it does the job and save $$$$ because you don’t have to buy a catalytic converter witch is not cheep plus the labor to 👍👍👍😎
Very true, I’m glad it worked for you. Thanks for the comment and for watching. If you are ever in the Dothan area again let me know.
Live in SC and have the same issues with my HVAC ducts and air handler being in my attic.... Was thinking of getting it spray foamed. Looks like you insulated between and over the rafters with foam sheets? Any issues with moisture because of that?
I have had no issues with moisture. Since I used foam sheets it’s not 100% sealed of course but there is a huge difference in temperature. It has worked great so far.
Have this problem on my 16 chevy colorado. I would still continue to drive on it, but when I'm at lower speeds, when I brake, my abs kicks in while I'm braking, it's real weird. continued to drive and brake at low speeds to test it out in my neighborhood, then it randomly abs stopped kickin in at the low speeds. Don't want it to happen at high speeds, so going to check sensors before driving again.
You might want to try this. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZpqtzLx7YMq9edo.htmlsi=_qKugDXUELtjvAT6 I hope you get it figured out soon.
I still can’t believe that real agency’s use these things, I know it’s mostly for under covers or detectives but the flash back and visibility from the exterior of the vehicle is very poor. In my opinion these agency’s should just use a dash light. Most of them are better shrouded for flash back and don’t need to be flipped into place. Tint can also be placed on the window or lenses of the dash light to make it almost invisible.
This shouldn't be needed to say ... You get the car, and want the customer to be happy and not only come back because they have to ..
Where I'm from, it's called common sense
As someone who does weekend details on cars, literally a bit of water and a microfibre towel can get the majority of brake dust off, and it only takes me less than a minute. More dirty wheels would require wheel cleaner, but if you're taking your car to the mechanic the customer isn't expecting a perfectly clean wheel, therefore a wiped down wheel will blow them away
Take care of your customers and they will take care of you. Customers notice the little things
I paid to have a motorcycle tire mounted and balanced, i brouggt the wheel in. When i came to pick it up, the guy said the rim was too dirty, so he wouldn't balance it. The bike got death wobbles and crashed my next ride. I broke my neck (various other injuries) because he wouldn't wipe down and balance the rim like i paid him to do.
Good grief that is terrible. Bad service for sure.
your not very smart lol u shouldve wiped it down and told him to do the balanceing lol and why would you go ride it without going somewhere else to get it balenced seems like u got what was coming to ya bud
I just did a 3 part translation of this on my blog kensdevotional.blogspot.com. The Hebrew is a mess. Far more messed up than even David psalms. I don't know Hebrew, and haven't been taught anything, but you can do it today with translators. Your translation is very different. I like it. I tried to make mine more like the Hebrew, but the words are all in the wrong order. Mine will be up online starting every other day from Tuesday May 28 every other day; Luke is in-between; until June 3 were I put your 3 shorts in as the song of the day. Did you do the translation yourself? I won't look at The Message, or the Voice or something like that when I'm doing translations, because I don't want to be swayed. Well Done man!
Great idea and I agree, but nobody wants to do anything more than absolutely necessary anymore. I guess people are just too lazy.
Unfortunately you are correct.
Wouldn't it be easier to take the whole wheel off rather than just the tyre?
lmao you're not wrong
😂
How come you tube doesn't delete this? It's disinformation.
It’s not the journey it’s the destination
😂
Can I do it for passenger side? My AC blows cold air on driver side and hot air on passenger side
Yes, you can do this with any failed actuator. Thanks for watching and good luck on your fix.
Thanks man 😂😂 i fix it
Great job!
Thanks for the great video! After confirming the mode door actuator wasn't moving properly I actually took it apart on the work bench (it can be opened by removing three screws and releasing about 5 clips ... it's OK if the clips break since the screws will hold it back together). Inside I noticed that the actuator encoder (spiral silver traces on the inside of the big gear) was quite greasy / dirty and the copper finger wipers that read the position on the encoder also had a lot of gunk built up on them. I cleaned the encoder trace and fingers with MAF cleaner (any solvent would likely work), reassembled, and the repaired/cleaned actuator now works perfectly. It seems the failure mode on mine wasn't a broken motor, just a dirty encoder that needed to be cleaned.
Awesome job! I’m glad you got it fixed for nothing. Thanks for watching and for the comment.