Welcome to No Fixed Course the channel dedicated to helping you improve your miniature painting skills! We offer in-depth tutorials on how to base and paint miniatures for warhammer and other tabletop games. Whether you're a beginner looking to learn the basics or a seasoned painter wanting to refine your techniques, our videos are perfect for you. Subscribe to our channel for regular updates and tips on how to take your miniature painting to the next level. Start creating stunning miniatures today! #warhammerbasing #howtopaintminiatures #warhammer #warhammer40k #miniaturepainting Subscribe for more tutorials!
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Superb video and I am going to steal this whole cloth for my Flesh Eater Courts Spearhead! My one suggestion would be turning the music volume down slightly as it was quite overbearing at points, but thats just like, my opinion man!
Working out the volumes on videos is by far the most annoying part of the creation, it doesn't seem to be a consistently easy thing to manage. I'll make a note for the next one though, any improvement is good improvement. Glad you enjoyed it
God, the music is terrible. I couldn’t make it through what was probably a really good tutorial.
Very nice. My process is about the same as yours. I use a clear UV resin. The resin is on the thick side and the surface tension keeps it from runing off the side. Once it is poured on or painted on can hit it right away with UV to have inperfections in surface or let it set for a bit and it will self level. Love your tutorials.
Thanks! Appreciate you watching them. Uv resin is something I've not really dived into yet, but I think soon will be time to do so, because I spotted some uv putty the other day, which I've got some ideas for using in display basing.
I liked this a lot. However, it is a little too simple. Performing the technique on the surface you did is ‘too easy.’ I think it would add a lot if you then demonstrated on actual surfaces we will be painting on like power armor panels. Demonstrate how you adapt that basic technique on a tube to our models. Thank you for the content.
There is a reason I picked that particular shape for the tutorial, because its a cylinder, and power armour is made up of cylinders, so the technique translates exactly and doesn't need to be adapted. Obviously there's other factors like lighting and secondary reflections etc, but that's a subject for a future video, there's definitely room to expand upon what was covered here, and plenty more planned! Thanks for watching.
Where did you get the headstones from?
According to the text on the sprue they're from a company called Renedra, Gravestones set 1 apparently. Hope that helps.
Your voice is awesome for explaining things!!! Caln, clear and relaxing :)
Ace model, brilliant title 😅
Looks good. Needs an upclose
I'll see what I can do! I'm not overly proud of it, but I could do a quick close up and why there's bits I don't like about it.
Great video - and the result is impressive
Thanks!
Saw this on FB and did wonder about the methodology........fantastic process and result!
Thanks, really appreciate you checking it out!
Just found your channel and instantly subbed, really enjoying these tutorials!
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying them
Brilliant video. One of the best basing videos I have seen
Thank you! Very kind of you to say.
Great video mate!
Thanks bud!
My super glue has always melted XPS, is the gel that much different or is your foam the change here? I use XPS from insulation but not the blue Styrofoam branded kind. Thanks for the video!!!! Love the outcome!
Always best to test really I guess, I've just this second popped some plastic glue, gel super glue and normal super glue on the foam as I was intruiged! Plastic glue eats straight through it as expected, but neither super glues did at all. And the normal super glue was just a cheap hobby craft bottle, nothing special. The gel superglue is worth trying as it's great, but if your superglue melts your foam, the gel could potentially still do the same! Thanks for watching, appreciate it
If you happen to live near a pine forest you can most likely find some pine bark there. Has really nice miniature stone texture that can be used as is or to rough up the foam like you did!
👏 👏 👏 more!
Looks like "don't have airbrush = every base will take forever"
It's the old 'Fast, Good, Cheap' triangle. You can only pick 2. You want fast and good...won't be Cheap. This one is Good + Cheap, so it's not Fast.
Doing it by brush makes you feel more pride in your work.
What drill is this and where do i get it?
Its an older Citadel drill, Not 100% if its still available. But saying that, the actual way it grips the drill bit isn't ideal, you want something with what's called a 'Jacobs chuck' or a universal pin vise (they use 4 little grips rather than the one here which uses a collet system and can't go to really really small drill bits) you'll have much more freedom over what size bits you can put into it and it'll grip the smaller stuff better. Dspiae do one I believe that's quite good, but there are other options.
Had to share this
Gorgeous
Il try it
Full Video Here - kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZJqEm7CwgJbagaw.htmlsi=LK7XVwG_4UYTowk-
Full video Here - kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZJqEm7CwgJbagaw.htmlsi=LK7XVwG_4UYTowk-
What's the music at around 7 minute mark? Is that an old video game theme by any chance?
I use stream beats by Harris Heller, so the chances it references an old video game theme is probably quite high, but there's certainly nothing specific.
The result looks really great! also, nice editing, keep it going man! One question though: could you achieve a similar result just by using milliput? that way you could avoid the whole oven and transfer step!
Yeah you absolutely could use milliput or greenstuff, anything like that. Just takes too long to cure for my liking! 🤣 thanks for the kind words, editing is not my favourite part of the process it has to be said.
I have done this with Milliput; it works well, and also has the advantage of being able to be smoothed out with water. I never thought of impressing texture into it, though.
@Vlad_The_Imposter milliput actually takes texture really well, it doesn't shrink or move as it cures so you can get really crisp details.
@@nofixedcourse I'll have to give it a go next time. I'm wondering now if there's something with finer bristles than a toothbrush that would work - an old synthetic brush with the bristles cut down maybe.
@Vlad_The_Imposter a paintbrush like you would use for a wall would have bristles stiff enough to do it, but you'd have to cut some off to make something smaller and more useful for what we do. Also dirt cheap to pick up and you can use the remaining bristles for long grasses!
Could citadel ardcoat work as the varnish here? Ive never hsed it before but id like to know before i use it in case i need to return it
I'll be honest, every time i've used citadel ardcoat for similar stuff it hasn't sanded well at all, but maybe I wasn't leaving it long enough to cure properly. It's useful stuff, but maybe not for this particular application. Unless your budget is strictly limited to that one pot of varnish, get some tamiya but keep the ardcoat and test some on a plain base, sanding a section in 24hr intervals. Both have their uses for hobby stuff.
Perfect, thank you
I know I've come across this late, but my man I could kiss you. I've been racking my adhd addled brain for a way to make tiling and marble bases for my Emperor's Children and FINALLY I've found it. I can't thank you enough for this!
A wizard is never late, you have arrived precisely when you were meant to. Anyway, hope it helps, from one adhd addled brain to another!
Hey, been wanting to do ice bases for ages and this looks ace! Quick question, you do 2 layers of x-22, then theres the part you mentioned that you did a 2 layers and then some contrast paints. Is that 2 layers in total or another 2 layers of what's already shown in the video, so 4 layers in total?
The more layers the better really with tamiya clear, I'd have to go through the video again to double check, but in hindsight, if you can do a few more layers of the clear, it will add to the illusion of depth in the base, so do that. Just make sure each layer is completely dry before adding the next.
@@nofixedcourse Thanks! Should've realised not long after that you mentioned you have 5-6 layers on, which answers my question, sorry. I'm giving these a try, slowly but surely doing them, hopefully I wont have the issue with the cracks other people seem to be mentioning. Ill let you know how it goes?
@@nofixedcourse Unfortunately I ran into the issue with the cracks. Did make me wonder if perhaps i'm putting on the varnish too thinly? Do you put it on quite thick?
@klobb1236 it's fairly thick yes, I suppose that makes sense if you're used to gw or most miniature paint range varnishes, if you put them on too thick they go cloudy and rubbery, but tamiya doesn't do that so you can put on thicker layers. It's looking like I'll either have to do an updated video covering some of the issues people have had, or a little troubleshooting guide on the Facebook page.
Ill in a few weeks attempt to mix this with another technic, badland tech primed white and contrast on top to create the snow area firest as raised areas, will hopefully make the ice looks like it flows into the snow rather than on top.
I so much enjoyed this video. Will absolutely have to try this!
Please do! give it a try and let me know how you get on, a couple of people have mentioned they've not had much luck with replicating it so i'm curious as to why that is. I wonder if a little thinned white ink in the cracks would be an addition that makes it easier for people to replicate.
Looks cool. 👍
I wish I found this video BEFORE I glued all my mini's to their bases....
You could potentially get away with It if you put the snow around the feet, you'd just have to put more snow nearby so it doesn't just look like they've conveniently stood in the only two patches of snow around!
Must acquire more minis!
This is really helpful. Thank you for the tips and advice.
I have a question, do you coat the grass in any way? Does it fall off over time?
Sometimes I varnish the whole base including the grass, which can help. But generally as long as its not being moved or touched constantly it should be fine, although you'll always lose a little bit over time anyway it won't be a huge amount.
@@nofixedcourse ok thanks so much! I just finished doing the bases for my skorpekh destroyers, and all of my dnd friends are impressed thanks to your tutorial 😁
Definition of trust the process! Just about to make my first models (Skorpekh Destroyers) and this is SOOOO helpful!
could you still paint these with miniatures already on?
Yes absolutely, your main concern would be is the base smooth enough, and painting it in such a way that it looks natural, so either having the lines avoiding the feet completely or painting it to look like it's passing under the feet. Either way is perfectly fine.
@@nofixedcourse awesome, i was planning on smoothing the bases before attaching and priming. Then fix the feet once the bases is done.
The kind of tutorial i like. Thanks a lot!
Thank you, glad you liked it!
Mate, this video has inspired me to do my whole Astra Militarum in this basing method. Completed the first 20 bases for the shock troops today and honestly after trying different 'How to' videos off youtube for years, this was the first time my end product looks as good as the video. Wish I could post a picture! Thanks for a great video!!!!
Really glad you found some use in the video!
Nice tutorial, but how do you stick your miniatures on after when theres stones and brushes in the way?
There's a couple of ways to do it, either with pinning or by covering a section of the base beforehand. Pinning would be to drill a hole in the foot of your model and in the base and connect the two using part of a paperclip or small brass rod. Or you can cover parts of the base where the feet connect before you start putting on sand etc. Either works fine although pinning is a stronger connection.
This looks great but there is no way in hell I'm gonna do that to 100 bases. I'd go insane. I need a faster method 😅
I'm not looking to do marble bases, but I AM looking for ways to paint marble effects on some Dark Angels. This is really nice, going to try this one. Nice job!
Hi! Just one small question. Do you think this can work the other way around if I want a black marble base? I mean, begin with black, then the grey lines and finally white. Liked and subscribed! Thank you very much
Yep, it absolutely would work. It would potentially be easier as well, because black highlights up through grey very well and you can start with a variety of different dark colours to give the black a bit more depth, such as incubi darkness from citadel, that's one i use to do initial highlights on black a lot.
@@nofixedcoursethank you so much! I appreciate it very much
Amazing advice!
Finally a guide that doesn't use that dried wet-wipe and spray can trick! Many thanks! ^^
thank you so much for this vid im new to miniature painting and didnt have a good understanding of thinning paints until this vid👍👍
You're absolutely welcome! Glad it's helped. I'll try and do a video for various techniques in a similar style as a reference for beginners.
@@nofixedcourse I'd really appreciate that😁
I've decided to pick one up in green & sand. I've been looking for something to fill just this role, my tiny space needs the help, haha, and this released before I decided to find a friend with an FDM printer. The full price of these when on sale hit the sweet spot for me. It was great to see a take from a commission painter, and someone making using of the dry palette as a palette! I'm thinking I'll use the dry palettes to holds bits and bobs.
This is some genuinely useful information! There's a lot of talk about "thinning your paints" but not nearly as much on how *much* to thin by - or how you know when you've thinned enough. Not to mention the fact paints differ greatly in how much thinning they need - and how the amount a paint needs can change as a bottle ages. I wish I'd had this video when I got back into the hobby about five years back. It would have saved me a *lot* of grief!
Glad you liked it! Now if only there was an easy, universal way of describing how to thin to a glaze consistency. That's the next problem to solve.
@@nofixedcourseOh my goodness, *yes*! Even after a few years, I can still struggle with it. Inevitably I over-water half the time.