This is a place that I like to share with the world, the different projects that I am working on. I hope that I can guide people through some repairs and give them the confidence they need to tackle similar jobs. I am a single dad, and that has left me little time for keeping up with these projects, while keeping up with the kids full time. Meanwhile I will do my best to get back to creating content for everyone to enjoy, and maybe learn from.
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Nice video 👌. I was wondering what the name of this tire changer was? And maybe if you want you could do a more detailed video on how to use the Tire Changer and how it is built. I'm trying to build something similar to this design. Thanks either way 👍.
Any possible way to get that parts list? I am fixing to upgrade mine. I have some parts I am looking at but would help make a few decisions. I love my Rover.
What brake system are you using? My CUV axle broke a few days ago. I am trying to order the parts to upgrade it to a live axle. Any suggestions?
I had a problem with the IP adress, it results that I had another adapter for a PLC simulator and somehow when I installed the software it automatically configured the PLC simulator adapter. I recommend to check out the ip adresses and if needed manually change it.
I just got one of these for free.... I know its been 4 years since you posted the video... But the switch has to be in the middle lol. I was looking to use it as a go cart for the kifs too.
looking good
People, use the dump bed after removing the valve core. Smash the old tire off the bead between the frame and dump bed, lol
The shift fork plate needs to be modified likely to throw the slip collar onto the forward gear further.
Thanks for the video. Very cool.
Do u know what gy6 motor is in it to replace I see long case and short case
REF
Can the pads be changed without removing the axle?
I just bought my first Yerf dog Rover (1994). It was not running due to melted wires so I put it in neutral and winched it up on my trailer. Then put it in F to haul it home. Got home and put it back in neutral and rolled it off the trailer. Fixed the melted wires and started the engine. Moved the gearshift to R. Next day the shifter won't move. I went out and tried to push it backwards by hand. It wouldn't budge. I jacked the rear end up and I could shake both wheels back and forth about an inch either way. I had my wife sit in it with her foot on the brake trying to pull the shift handle down out of reverse. No luck. Then I started the engine and let it run at a low speed while I tried to move the gear shift lever down. No luck. Neither wheel was moving even though it is in reverse. When it was on the ground and I raced the motor, it seemed like it was trying to move forward but couldn't. But now I still have the rear wheels off the ground and the slack I had before moving the wheels back and forth is no longer there. It feels as if the brakes are on now when I try to shake the wheel back and forth. They won't move at all. I took the shift cable loose from the transmission linkage and tried to move the lever by hand. No luck. I noticed that lever is hooked at the bottom to other linkage behind the shift lever. It has an ear on if that rests against a pin coming out of the transmission. The pin fits against a couple of notches on that ear. I was unable to push the pin in and try to move the ear. I didn't force anything or hammer on it for fear of breaking something. It sure feels like the brakes are locked but the emergency brake is down and the pedal seems to be applying the brakes normally. I looked at the brake drums. The one on the driver's side appears to have moved over towards the passenger side a little with a gap in it. The drum on the passenger side has what appears to be a large rubber seal exposed between the hub and backing plate. Can you help me?
It all China lies with advertising. 2-7HP, 2-15HP etc. Like you said all made in the same factory in China with different sellers claiming their manufacturing name and ridiculous HP ratings. They are nice little units keeping under 7 HP, but more importantly is the toqure load mystery rating. They rang from 78USD to 145USD. There are better ones out there with 2 speeds about the same size and handle a true 15HP, 300USD is the cost though. Good luck. Im putting one on a Manco Fox Vortex with a 7HP engine. Its not a light cart but will see how it does with it 1:1.3 reduction output. Should help with the load at the expense a a marginally reducued top speed.
BIG PROBLEM I bought one with the 12 inch bar and 1/4 chain PM3. I used it as a pruning saw for olive trees. I managed to hurt myself but I am well now. One contributing factor was that the chain GRIPS the bar as it gets used ie warm, January weather in the south Meditteranean zone. Normally the chain gets looser during use, so the chain must not be loose to begin with. On this saw and bar the opposite happens. The bar must be expanding more than the chain as they get used and warm, resulting in the chain becoming tight on the bar. This SLOWS the chain down and thus the cutting is reduced ie the risk of a kick back is increased. Thus tensionign the chain correctly is a real problem I found. I wonder if other users may have noticed this phenomenon? Am I alone in this?
Simple job. I did it. No need to take out engine
Knowledge is power! Thanks guys!
I know it’s VERY late but I’m stuck at the front; I saw where you had the front ( door section ) first! I’m struggling with that part!
I have been wondering about getting the Stihl 161 battery top handle chainsaw but then was thinking of this one. Which one would you suggest?
I haven't tried the new battery saw. Batteries seem a little costly, and I don't know what kind of run time they get on a charge. I run the heck out of that little gas saw, usually several tanks of fuel. I wish I could speak for the 161, but I know the 151 is a great little saw.
@@TheSkinnnyFair enough. I have the batteries already and have heard it has a good run time from someone else and would only be using it occasionally for small jobs. So you think the battery one would be more ideal for me?
I wish I had the experiance to know. The only battery chainsaw I have used was an old 18v ryobi. I wouldn’t recommend that tool for anything but cutting a few small branches down. If you live in California, I would recommend getting a gas saw before they are banned at the end of the year, especially if you need one for larger jobs
@@mattseymour8637 I would have to recommend getting as much info as possible before making the purchase from people with experience using the battery saws. If you have the battery, that is already a good starting point. Pruning a few small branches should be light work for any small battery saw, but if your still on the job and you dont have fuel left for you tools, that can be a little embarrassing. I would want a gas backup personally, and use the battery saw until its out of juice, but still be able to finish that occasional job that takes more time than expected. p.s. I have a ton of useless dead batteries to recycle... I can refill my little empty gas can no problem, then toss it in the trash if it breaks.
@@TheSkinnnyThat is a good point and I guess there are good points to both. But I already have the batteries for a battery chainsaw and have the msa200 and I'm impressed with it. I have heard the battery run time is pretty good too and would only be using it occasionally so a petrol one I might get problems with it if left for longer periods I'm thinking.
Now that is a classic tire changer very well built man I wish I could find one they are pretty easy to use and keep you in shape too!... Guess I'll have to stick with my old HFT manual tire changer as back up for my rim clamp and my 40-40 sa coats 😂😂
Where r u located
Any recommendations on chain jumping? When I’m going occasionally my chain will jump and then be fine. Almost seems like the longer I go the less it happens. Not sure what’s going on or how to fix it.
You could maybe just use lapping compound.
Good job. Where did you learn how to do this?
Thanks! I always learn best when I am in the garage trying to figure it out. Other than that, just stuff I've learned from previous projects I have worked on.
You are doing a great job young man. Excellent walk through with your procedures.
Thank you very much!
A little late but something to check. The gears themselves. If you buy them from places like Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet, you'll see them marked for 40/41 chain. initially a 420 chain fits, but after a few runs the chain will start to clunk and jump. Why? If you look at the gear from the edge you will see the teeth get wider as they get closer to the center. What this does is cause the sides of the chain to spread apart as it's tightened making the rollers bind up and kink the chain. This will cause the exact problem described in the video.
So are you saying to change the chain ? I was wanting to get that same gearbox for my golf cart build using the predator 420.
reducing RPM with increase torque load... that adds stress to the FNR. High RPMs kill engines not transmissions, torque load breaks gears.
If you getting one looking to upgrade what’s the better option
I would go full suspension if you're going out on trails like this. I was getting pretty beat up on the coleman with no rear suspension. But for the money, the coleman is still fun to ride, but mostly I hop on the trailmaster. I still haven't modified the trailmaster, so I don't know what to really expect yet when I go to swap the motor. The hope is to get a predator ghost engine for it and see how it compares to the tillotson that's in the coleman.
@@TheSkinnny know anything about the tillotson 212 motor??
@@TheSkinnny or I should say are you expecting the predator to be better?
I can't find a carb kit like yours for a Honda GX 270. Which carb did you use?
What motor and clutch setup did u use?
Perfect video will help me tremendously
Hi! I’m in the process of swapping the old gy6 in my Rover to a slightly modified 440 DuroMax. Just wondering how you mounted your engine?
Man could this be a chain alignment issue putting stress on the clutch?
Only reason smaller one was more expensive is because you bought a top handle, that is an arborist chainsaw meant to be attached to leash on a climbers belt via that back loop, you could have bought the same 151 rear handle and spent a fraction of the cost
I really like the top handle for this saw. It makes it really easy to use with one hand. And yes this does go up the tree on a leash really easy. Money well spent.
dude on the trailmaster is about my size.
Thank You so much for the video. I was wandering how they were made. I wanna build a hunting cart , and was wandering how well these would hold up.
what exactly does the card do?
The computer uploads the print to the card for storage, and then the printer prints the file from the card. Depending on if you are using the xyz filament, you can then print the file directly from the card when no computer is connected.
@@TheSkinnny okay thanks. I have the same error and must then probably exchange the card.
do you have any experience opening the transmission on the back? i have the same model and the driveshaft/sprocket appears bent because it rotates oblong. i really dont want to commit to an entire swap, im hoping i can figure out a fix. everything else is very manageable and runs well
im dealing with a bent driveshaft right now on my rover. it rotates in an oblong fashion and kicks the chain off repeatedly. not sure how it happened exactly. i was going to just commit to an engine swap because i wasnt confident in getting parts, but that looked like a ton of work in your other videos. I think I am going to attempt to split the transmission open and try to rebuild it. these videos help, thank you
BMI karts in ohio supplies a lot of yerf dog replacement parts. great service. good website. call and order. i always receive timely with no issues.
I have built a number of mill/drills using the stock lead screw and they are plenty accurate with backlash compensation. They will repeat to under .001". I have found that ball screws are usually a little less accurate, possibly because they aren't as solid. The biggest advantage to ball screws is they can be spun quickly.
You should just put a small quad motor on there that way there you'll have five speeds and a reverse and not have to worry about a gearbox or any of that
That is the goal, just haven't been able to find one that is affordable at this point. I have been watching craigslist like a hawk! Hoping that I might even find one that is 4x4 to give this thing some major upgrades!
Any ideas on how to bypass the original chain tensioner? I only get about 6 months and have to replace the nylon rollers
Z axist?
I recently picked up an all original rover identical to yours with under 100 hours on it. After I changed the oil, spark plug/coil it was running great. But the chain kept popping off. Finally realized somehow the driveshaft is bent. It is rotating in a sort of oblong pattern and the sprocket wobbles with that pattern and pops the chain off under tension. I’m trying to decide if it’s A possible to repair and B is it even worth the attempt? Are you happy with how your swap turned out? Any advice? Thanks!
My yerf dog rover is not stopping, how do I fix the brakes ? Can you make a video of how to fix the brakes ?
I'm using a transmission out of a Polaris 250 trailblazer or trailboss, not sure which but it has forward, reverse and low range. I'm still getting everything put together but it should hold up fine in my asw carbide. What part of the 30 series converter wouldn't hold up for you?
May i ask how tall are you removing seeems easy to you ?
I am 5’6” and about 135 lbs. it was fairly easy but the instructions recommend using caution when taking it apart, and if you don’t want to risk it, I would recommend some kind of lifting device. I had it on the ground, so there wasn’t much risk of it falling very far.
@@TheSkinnny Thank you so much. 😄
Howd the gearbox hold up?
It did not. Anything more than idle for the size motor caused the shifting mechanism to jump in and out of gear. I wish I had better results, but it was a complete failure.
@@TheSkinnny could it be the work if the idle was lower? Or does the box need zero movement to shift?
The idle was a little high, but it did go into gear and take off immediately. The jumping in and out of gear was made way worse with any throttle. it just can’t handle the power. It did that with the 212 tillotsen stage 1 motor as well, but it only did it under heavy load. It was just too much power for the little gearbox to handle, and the internal shift collar was the failure point. I don’t think I would recommend this gearbox for much over 8 horsepower, at least on something as heavy as the rover, or with the big tires
Great video and thank you! I have a question about the ball screws? The actual screw is it 25mm,20mm, or 16mm in diameter? I thing you said in the video that a 1/2 motor shaft would connect to ball screw, that would be at the end where shaft has been cut down. It is now 2 years late, is it still performing as you wanted it to. The controller you used is it still working properly? I guess my question would be, would you do anything different? Again Thank you for your time!!
The ballscrew is 20mm, and the end was turned down and drilled out with a threaded collar that clamps down to the 1/2" motor. This machine was made custom for a machine shop that I am not part of. I did offer to maintain the machine for the current owner, and I have not gotten a single call for any service to it. I did give the owner a basic rundown of how to service it if the tolerances went out of spec, and the machine is still in service cutting splines for swaybars. I do believe that I would have heard back if there were any issues since I have done other work for that shop in the past, and the owner knows that I stand behind my work. The only thing I would have done differently is use a better donor machine. I was unimpressed with the quality of the original grizzly machine. Hope that helps, and feel free to come back for any help I can offer. Thanks for the comment and I hope this helps.