DIY Bass Guy and let me know if you need some advice on your mortgage. Please note do not emulate or follow anyone of my repair videos as they are for entertainment purposes only and can cause serious injury. If you decide to do what I do with my cars, you are agreeing to only proceed at your own risk and that risk could be very high.
Пікірлер
Great ideas. I’m only 35 but my injuries are slowly catching up to me. These are the sort of ideas to enable us to keep fishing into the years. Loading and storing the boat. Thank you
Randy lost a HOG in that spooning hole
Thanks for the video.
Lets do this brother
Nice work Captain!
Nice work T
Overboard? Sounds like a great idea, if GM would have done the grounding right the first time…
Thanks man saved me!!
No problem 👍
Fun day for sure with the MR T EXPERIENCE
Awesome video sir, exactly what I needed. Appreciate you!
I did notice that. Absolutely always solder wires on a car or trailer wiring. Best way is have 2 lenghs of heat shrink on wire before soldering. After soldering smear some electrical grease on joint, heat shrink 1 length, then slide 2nd, longer length and shrink. Solid connection. Great vid.
You won't see mention of it that often but there is a couple ground wires that is key to the throttle-by-wire working and they throttled by cable. On the driver side between the driver fender and driver side door underneath the vehicle there are a couple ground wires. If corroded they can cause the throttle by wire not to work, they can cause missing etc
What size of nut is that on the block motor
Was this code c0283 ?
Anyone getting this code and o2 sensor? It doesn't let me clear it also
Me to
Before you do anything have your alternator tested that was my problem or a negative battery cable.👍
Wym the battery was the problem??
Philly dee
Evert time he says "right?", take a drink.
I had a p1518 code / reduced power and I checked the ground wire at the rear of the engine block passenger side and it popped right off. I believe that was the problem. I cleaned all the other ones but I didn't know about that one until I watch this video .I will report back after I've reconnected and driven a while. Thanks!
What size wire did you use for the ecm ground ?
Any suggestions for a PO120 code fix ?
Can you tell me if the roller is soft and not really hard. I keep buying the ones that don't flex on the outside the are hard like a rock? What brand is it in the video please
What size bolt did you use for the new ground on the block
What was the symptoms of a reduce power .? I have a 2007 tahoe no start
Do you need to disconnect the battery wen installing the wire to ground on fire wall..? I wanna do mine too
Yes
I replaced the throttle body and the pedal sensor grounded having the same problem. Reduced engine mode, Can it be the Mass Air Flow sensor?
If still no start that mean your ecm control module is dropping ground voltag
What size bolt did you use
Do the Big 4 upgrade..... It's a upgrade we use in the car audio world..... Use 1/0 awg.... And it would take care of your problem grounds.....
I’ve only ever heard/done it as the big 3 hahah
Code1518
You shouldn't need the wheel dollys. Just aim to either side to point it, it should turn on a dime.
My 07 chevy New body has been doing this on and off for 5 years only when i come up to a Red light or let it Idle for a few minutes Runs good going the speed limit Replaced my Throttle body it was dirty ran good for 2 years then again Reduced engine power replaced it again Factory parts only ran good for 2 years did it again code read Crankshaft position sensor above the Starter so i changed that as well ran good for 2 months now it's doing it again on and off Auto zone says it's my ECM $385 i know when it says reduced engine power many lights come on Traction control mainly and if your lucky enough for it to start within a few minutes it will snap your head back when it shifts out of low into second,I would Appreciate any thoughts on this problem,Thanks.
you ever figured this out? i swapped my ecm thinking that’s what it was broke down before but it was a broke wire and now that it runs it does this. under full throttle it’ll bog and thsn finally say reduced engine power but under slight acceleration it does fine. it blows my mind literally happened on the way home from gettin the wire fixed.
@@nate.hanlon Yes i did it was the Ground on the drivers side back against the Firewall its just a short ground wire i could not get it broke loose so i just ran another heavy duty Red wire from the Alternator bracket back into the firewall,But your problem sounds like you have Carbon build up on your throttle body Butterfly or maybe a weak fuel pump i know one thing buying parts for these pickups sure isn't cheap good luck.
@@missourimule2827 i’m afraid ima have to check all the wires again from checking them from before to find the broken wire. so there’s that ground wire and another one correct ?
@@missourimule2827 and i’ve already cleaned the throttle body and the fuel pump seems to be good makes the noise everytime i crank it lmao. maybe could be from where we tried to crank it a few times and it wouldn’t start maybe it wore the pump out but i doubt it.
Sure would be nice to see you do it
Looks like a good repair, do you know if that ground on the back of the block on the pass side is where the 02 sensors ground ? What kind of codes, if any, were stored in your pcm ?
Start by stating what year make and model u are discussing all car and trucks are not the same
Looks to be early 2000 Suburban or Tahoe
Exactly
You had a ground wire going to the battery negative terminal. Was the other end of that wire also going to the firewall where all the wires are now connected?
Yes it was
Thanks I just fix my Tahoe problem thanks to you …….problem solved
Ollloloo
Thanks I appreciate that
Actually that wire comes undone and you become ungrounded you're dead in the water it's going to die no injectors no fuel pump all kinds of issues with that ground and there's two of them there's one on each side of the block in the back you did one on the other side of the engine there's another one
I think what he is thinking is connect everything directly to the battery. Both wires in the back. The passenger side as you mentioned is critical. I have that one spliced and connected back to the ground at the firewall. And the firewall is grounded direclty to the battery and the engine. Over kill likley but if it breaks off at the back of the engine like many have experienced, I am still grounded. Drivers side is odd to me but was the one that was very corroded at the firewall. It appears this wire simply grounds to the engine block (negative). So essentially I have a redundant ground to the engine block plus I took another wire from the firewall and grounded it to the battery as well. Little to no chance of losing a ground. Overkill but man this thing is sensitive. My battery negative terminal on one of my 03's came slightly lose and "reduced... " came on. Thankfully it was the battery terminal.
why didn't you hook the wire to the negative on the battery?
Really good point. Looking under the hood just now, I can't think of a reason why not and it would be cleaner. Didn't think it through. Brain fog obviously. Passenger side ground needs to be grounded well and I would still be sure the engine block is grounded as well. If you do this with the thicker wire, it may take some finegaling to bolt it to the negative on the battery. There is not much room. I had to get a larger bolt for one of mine as it came loose. If you don't bolt it tight it will come loose and momentarily disconnect triggering "reduced engine power" as well. Thanks for addition. Need to make a better video now. :) Or you should make one to help others once u are done.
@@2009adtommy No, please you make the video's it just occurred to me as I just had this problem and the battery negative would be the best ground. Ps I squirted WD40 on the inside of the plug on the left side of the throttle body.
So would this work if my tahoe 5.3 v8 2wd wont go pass 40mph
Do you have a "reduced engine power" warning? Other than max 40mph. What other symptoms do you have. Don't worry these engines are simple. Also what year? Do you have a cable throttle?
I know ur trying but man all you are doing is putting duck tape on it.fix correct first time.
I know what you are saying but these grounds I made are now easy to get to and when corroded, I can easily remove and clean. Don't know why GM decided to hide the grounds in the back of the engine where one of them is nearly impossible to reach. Very strange to me. In any case I wouldn't discourage this repair as these corrections have solved both my 2003 Tahoe issues. I have an outboard with a similar grounding problem and it is a 1 hour job minimum to remove connections (and a plate) to clean at the connectors and the block. So I did the same. I brought the ground to a very accessible location for the next inevitable time that I will have to clean it again. I have noticed on all my vehicles, a lot of the problems are connection issues and mostly the grounds getting corroded. So if you want to do it as from factory feel free. But I believe this not only a design error as one of them often breaks in the back of the engine but for the purpose of anesthetics/or GM ease, GM foolishly hid these connections in very difficult to reach places.
@@2009adtommy did you ever get it fixed
It will work till burns up something ground wire is supposed to be no more the 18 inches good luck my friend
I am listening and willing to learn. Give me a web link regarding max 18 inch ground wire and I will post it. Remember don't do what I do! 🙂 I think if you brought it back to original condition, you can go worry free for another 100k miles. But nevertheless send me the link. Never heard of this before.
Do I still need that dumb unable to reach wire?
I would clean it and leave it attached.
So you hooked a ground to a ground?
Yes only because that large ground at the firewall is connected to the back of the engine which I can't reach to clean. Also the ground at the firewall was very corroded. So I grounded it to the front of the engine which I can reach. I even took a wire from the firewall to the ground at the battery for redundancy. Over kill I know but have not had a problem in 3 or 4 years. It is all about the grounds at the back of the engine, under the car under the drivers seat, the throttle body, gas pedal sensor and the wiring harness at the throttle body. I changed them all but what really did it was the grounds. The slightest variation cause a fault. I just had a reduced engine light come on and I was so annoyed and it turned out that the ground at the battery was loose. Grounds are the key.
I just did the same to my 2008 HD an it also fixed the problem I had code P2135 .. thanks for taking the time to put this up.... all it cost me was a 24' grounding strap... I had 4 ground location and each one was corroded ..I cleaned them all.. and still installed the extra strap .. do not know which one fixed it but its working and I also note my Alt is charging higher so that is a double check that problem was grounding issues.. thanks again
The steel, wires and connectors used on gm vehicles is a special alloy that has Alka seltzer in it. Slightest exposure to moisture melts and corodes them. I've only ever seen this happen on boats used in the ocean. Everything in these vehicles acts like they have been hit with salt water. That's American engineering/corporate thinking for you build it cheap as possible..
Salt water? Maybe all the chloride they put on our dirt roads in summer, plus chloride & salt in the winter? Salty ocean air?
@@jefffrayer8238 i have owned 9 boats and my second job is working in a marina for the last 31 years in the northeast. We know about the effects of salt water and corrosion. We coat the underside of our trucks once when new or when we first get them, put greases on the grounds and never have problems with the chassis, last as long as the drivetrain. They use non zinc plated, cheapest components possible to save a few pennys so....
Doesn't have to look pretty if it works....lol
Hi so I wanted to try this out on my 2000 Chevrolet tahoe LT 4x4 5.3 v8. So before messing with any wires. Should I disconnect my battery cable's??
Yes it is always wise to unbutton the battery but before you do this, do you have a cable throttle? I am pretty sure that model year didn't have an electronic controlled throttle body. Confirm before you go through all of this.
Ok sir I confirmed that my 2000 Chevrolet tahoe LT 4x4 5.3 v8. Has cable throttle instead of the the electric. So do you think the 40inch negative battery cable will work sir??
@@aprilviarreal441 so I am not familiar with the cable throttle model. Likely it is still a grounding problem. Sorry I can't help.
@@2009adtommy hi sir is your egine the 5.3 vortec v8 4x4? Cuz that's what mines is. And i was really looking close to your egine in your video. And your egine is the same thing as mine. I wish I would know if this ground wire fix you did would work on my Chevy tahoe LT 4x4 5.3 v8. Cause I was gonna go tomorrow in the morning to buy the 40inch negative battery cable..
@@aprilviarreal441 it is the 5.3. Likely you will need to do the 40 inch cable, along with the grounds under the drivers seat. I hope it works for you. I don't know anything about the cable throttle system. Proceed at your own risk please.
you have a solution out of many.
Yes both trucks have been flawless since. Thanks for watching. My videos are too long but oh well. :)
I'm talking to myself lol.