Пікірлер

• 
  @michaeldority269219 сағат бұрын

  Wait, you had a microcender on the table, then talked about the shunt??

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing10 сағат бұрын

  @@michaeldority2692 LOL you think I should have said something about the Microcender?

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  @michaeldority26928 сағат бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing I use a microcender, so yes.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing8 сағат бұрын

  @@michaeldority2692 the Microcender is a safe one when used with a backup (all systems should have a backup). The tricky part about the Microcender is if the cable is damaged: the spring action of the cam 100% relies on that cable. If the cable is worn, you HAVE to replace it to make the device safe again.

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  @skillbehКүн бұрын

  What is your preferred connector for he Micro Traxion when top rope soloing? Petzl BM'D? OK? Sm'D?

• 
  @YannCamusBlissClimbingКүн бұрын

  Look here for the problem and the solution: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qYitrNx-m9zHgZM.htmlsi=lNbWJxIbHF8obWSN&t=171

• 
  @b0mazor2 күн бұрын

  "I watched some youtube videos and thia setup is increadible." So it is true, you can become an expert from youtube videos!!!!

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing2 күн бұрын

  @@b0mazor 😂 I guess the 10,000 hours rule would hold truer. Study 10,000 hours of KZread videos and we talk again!! ;-)

• 
  @ssaw30083 күн бұрын

  nobody is making this videos!! very good man!! thanks Can you show a video doing the chest harness with the 120cm slings which are even more common to have??

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing3 күн бұрын

  @@ssaw3008 I never climb with 120cm slings. (Very seldom) I don’t think you can make such a convenient and comfortable chest rig with them. Sorry to let you down on this!

• 
  @johannaw11924 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the video! I’ve been struggling to get the chest harness high enough and comfortable. I ended up doing the double wrap method on both sides, because the extra loop on the other side was not enough. A lot of loops to get through the carabiner. 😂

• 
  @YannCamusBlissClimbingКүн бұрын

  Recently I used and liked the Avant LRS Chest Harness and I like it! I should make a video about that accessory! avantclimbing.com/products/lrs-chest-harness

• 
  @skillbeh4 күн бұрын

  Been clipping my way up sport routes for 15 years, to set up my TR Solo. I very rarely encounter climbs I want to do that can be accessed easily from the top. Its my favorite way to check out potential projects as well.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing4 күн бұрын

  @@skillbeh cool! Do you ever rely on a single bolt momentarily? Or do you tend to always be on 2 bolts like I try to do in the video? Or do you « aid-LRS » your way up self belaying with a bottom belay anchor?

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  @skillbeh4 күн бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing I clip a figure 8 in a bight to a steel locker and put that on the first bolt. I then clip up to the next bolt with a quick draw, jug up with an ascender and a gri gri, go in-direct, then repeat, until I get to the anchors. I will always be on one bolt, plus the original locking biner with the figure 8, plus I will be on the bolt i'm in direct to, or, until I go back on the rope, as I progress to the next bolt/quickdraw. If, for example, the third bolt failed, I would take a factor 2 fall on to the second bolt, but with the rope, not a sling. It would be very bad, but I wouldn't hit the ground. If that same bolt failed while I was pulling slack to clip to the next bolt, I would take a similar fall, but it would be longer. It's hard to explain. I should probably just make a video.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing4 күн бұрын

  @@skillbeh if you end up making a video, please contact me through my website BlissClimbing.com. I can post the link to your video here for others to watch. You cannot because you don’t own this video here and YT will not allow your comment. Makes sense? I think I understand what you describe. Do you think my method has an advantage? As both of us must reach between 2 bolts? Right?

• 
  @skillbeh4 күн бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing Your method is perhaps slightly safer and more redundant, but I believe my margin for safety is acceptable enough for most people. Mine allows me to set up quite quickly. I have encountered many bolts that I did not feel comfortable with (old/rusted/tipped out, etc) in which case I will "down clean" and exit the route rather than risk a bolt failure and a factor 2 fall. In my area we are starting to replace most old bolts with glue ins, which if installed properly, have a very low likelihood of failure, as you know quite well i'm sure. I am a rope access professional so I typically have a low tolerance for unnecessary risk, but I think the method I use is a good compromise between convenience/ease of use/ and safety. If I make a video I will reach out to you via your website. Thank you for all of your content. Excellent stuff.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing4 күн бұрын

  @@skillbeh Sounds great! Thanks for sharing your experience!

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  @skillbeh5 күн бұрын

  Perhaps youve mentioned it in other videos, but why do you replace your belay loop with a Petzl Open Ring?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing5 күн бұрын

  @@skillbeh it has more pros than cons for rope solo systems.

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  @skillbeh5 күн бұрын

  A Edelrid HMS biner with the keeper spring seems like it would work well with all of these.

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  @PinkFromTheFuture7 күн бұрын

  nice. we crossed on the trail the other day when you were at the crag to find something you had forgotten the day before. I also sent this route, but someone was belaying me! hehehe

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing5 күн бұрын

  @@PinkFromTheFuture cool! See you next time!!

• 
  @QuentinLeCalvez7 күн бұрын

  Why black and white?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing6 күн бұрын

  @@QuentinLeCalvez the color was weird on the original for some reason. Black and white showed much better.

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  @gfgytyt57477 күн бұрын

  Thank you!!! What backup are you using? Backup knots?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing6 күн бұрын

  @@gfgytyt5747 yes. 6 to 10 (?) slip knots and an overhand on a bight as a « final » backup. Makes sense?

• 
  @richardsmith99187 күн бұрын

  Awesome

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing7 күн бұрын

  Thanks!

• 
  @oldclimber55028 күн бұрын

  I have only used the Micro Traction once to control my cache loop, I did worry a bit in a fall , the two devices would meet, it should feed ok but I wasn’t sure; you released the Silent Partner very efficiently, it can be tricky. Nice to see a real world example of LRS. Have extra likes 🙂

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing7 күн бұрын

  Thanks so much! Yes: if you use a very thin rope, and you feed the Silent Partner in a certain way, there is a risk that the whole clove hitch falls in a single slot of the Silent Parter "sheave". If you fall with the clove in that position, it can be almost impossible to un-cinch. I used a nut tool to pry out the rope from that mess once and resume climbing! It was a 9.4mm rope and I pushed it beyond normal use. Never happened to me with a 9.5 or 9.6mm rope... You can look in details how I release the SP here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dYOnk7t_oM-dh9Y.html

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  @herbothremodelingllc46999 күн бұрын

  I still have my Soloist from the 90's, it is gold.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing9 күн бұрын

  I used and loved my soloist so much! It still runs strong! 🙂

• 
  @neitzsche515013 күн бұрын

  Yann, couldn't you use two simple Petzl Tangas, or the Kong Fast Rubber Carabiner Connector?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing13 күн бұрын

  @@neitzsche5150 two Petzl Tangas would be annoying as you would have to remove one each time and risk dropping it. The Kong fast rubber might be good to keep a carabiner permanently on the belay loop but it is not my style. And would not keep the Spoc from sliding over the gate. Only the Avant "Flex-Link" - Anti-Crossload Protector would work and be of this kind!! Makes sense?

• 
  @gryphon94017 күн бұрын

  Most people use a grigri when hang dogging routes. It's very common actually among pros from what I've seen and read

• 
  @robstone878218 күн бұрын

  Curious, why not a non cross loading locker where the gate is blocked like the DMM belay master or similar? Do they get caught up? Good video as I'd sort of written it off without ever using one but generally like edelrid gear

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing18 күн бұрын

  @@robstone8782 I just don’t like the belay master because the plastic gets in the way to clip to a gear loop. Also plastic can be lost.

• 
  @isakhammer655819 күн бұрын

  What do you think about two rope system of Shunt and grigri (with a knot) as backup?

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  @coach-respiration19 күн бұрын

  Good job. Simply this device is not for dynamic rope ...

• 
  @colecooper979220 күн бұрын

  My partner and I met Yann at the base of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite a few weeks ago. Cool guy and great info!

• 
  @YannCamusBlissClimbing20 күн бұрын

  @@colecooper9792 Thanks Cole! Were you part of the team I let pass me?

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  @colecooper979219 күн бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yep that was us! I was the follower on the first couple pitches

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing19 күн бұрын

  @@colecooper9792 well done I thought you were fast! I had a fantastic climb :-) Thanks for the comment!!

• 
  @paulmorrey429820 күн бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @YannCamusBlissClimbing19 күн бұрын

  @@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

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  @paulmorrey429820 күн бұрын

  Thanks

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing19 күн бұрын

  @@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

• 
  @paulmorrey429820 күн бұрын

  Thanks

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing19 күн бұрын

  @@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

• 
  @momchilatanasoff745621 күн бұрын

  Thank you!

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing19 күн бұрын

  @@momchilatanasoff7456 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

• 
  @jackberdine21 күн бұрын

  What's the red device you're using to represent the climber here?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing21 күн бұрын

  @@jackberdine à silent partner

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  @verti_call21 күн бұрын

  Great vid as usual. Thank for sharing your knowledge

• 
  @WillTheFrozen22 күн бұрын

  great content. Like

• 
  @YannCamusBlissClimbing21 күн бұрын

  Thanks!

• 
  @jonbarnhard368122 күн бұрын

  Dmm I am pretty sure makes rubber stoppers that you put on the carabiner on both sides of the device to stop it from side loading.

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  @mathpotatostudios22 күн бұрын

  Its called DMM Wallis Avant Climbing also have their own version

• 
  @nathanrice735223 күн бұрын

  I'm glad you've moved on from hanging on fire piping. That shit is scarier than rope soloing. Lol

• 
  @johnnyray627223 күн бұрын

  Just use a rubber ring stopper and you can use any biner you want

• 
  @climberevan23 күн бұрын

  Great video! Electrical tape will eventually ooze off and get all misaligned, especially if the 'biners are exposed to higher heat (like in a car). I'd suggest a few layers of heat shrink tubing to give you that thickness.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing23 күн бұрын

  @@climberevan wow the heat shrink tube is a great idea!! In my experience the electrical tape gets damaged from friction but it stays decent for a while.

• 
  @prusiker23 күн бұрын

  Thanks Yann! Profound content as always!

• 
  @WeekdayProductions23 күн бұрын

  Soft shackle?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing23 күн бұрын

  I am not the specialist in Soft shackles. I own a few and never use them in rock climbing. I know no one using them in rock climbing. I hear (and believe) they are safe when kept under tension. Not the case with the Spoc. I don't believe they are safe for that use...

• 
  @WeekdayProductions23 күн бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing v interesting, I did wonder.

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  @hummerchine23 күн бұрын

  Killer video!

• 
  @die_hertz27 күн бұрын

  I'm probably too short (172cm), 60mm slings end up under my belly button I haven't tried making it shorter yet but it seems like only option number 4 or 5 might work

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing26 күн бұрын

  Let me know if it was reasonable for you in the end or if not! Thanks for the constructive comment!

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  @b0mazorАй бұрын

  Can you please review the Edelrid Spoc?

• 
  @DavidSmith-qb4fyАй бұрын

  Have you done any tests on the Saftey Tec Duck ?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  Safe-Tec Duck-R Back Up Device: I have never touched one. I have researched the subject for Top Rope Solo (TRS) and decided against buying one. People who test it for TRS found there is too much friction going on and it seem like the device is annoying. Also it is 290g so not the most heavy but substantial. Also a bit expensive but would be ok if it did the job! Also I know no one using the Duck-R for TRS. Do you know more about it?

• 
  @BluesyBorАй бұрын

  Maybe it's rope's problem? It's 9,5mm, while Fuse and most (if not all) other safety devices are certified for ropes above 10mm, even above 11mm.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  For sure I made a test outside the scope of the device. I wish it would have worked with 9.5!! Thanks for the comment.

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  @BluesyBorАй бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing I wish it would too, dynamic ropes over 10mm aren't that popular. Still it's certified with an absorber too, so maybe these devices are made with static ropes in mind - I don't know really, I doubt I've seen this mentioned in any documentation. Your test shows what would happen in a non-ideal scenario, but I think this happens quite a lot, so it's extremely useful!

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  @@BluesyBor Thanks!

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  @scottperkins3696Ай бұрын

  I have 1/2" inch stable braid polyester safety rope and I want a rope grab device to use on steep roofs to do roof work I want it to " lock" while I am doing work with both hands in a specific roof location. If I slip and otherwise would slide off the roof. would this device catch my fall and work for me ? I need to walk up and down the roof frequently to get to new places to work. Will the rescuender work if I get a proper harness ?

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  I believe this device is not made for that purpose. You should ask some specialists on the subject. In my opinion you need one rope + device for positioning (lock) and another rope + device in case the first system fails. Good luck with your research!

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  @BulletResistant4 күн бұрын

  ASAP Lock

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  @mimirovinj100Ай бұрын

  I have a simpler solution, not use the Revo. With this method you have a lot of dead weight (weight of the whole rope)

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  @z1522Ай бұрын

  Updated: The adoption of girth hitches in creating master points has seen strong recommendations to incorporate the magic X half twist, thankfully. Other new tricks include use of modern fat, high test 22kN rings, and given how often a ring is carried anyway, as a backup in rappel situations, this can add some interesting pluses, like no gate, strong in every direction, smooth, no cricks to bind. A fat girth in one can still accept two carabiners as well. Climbing anchors will never experience more than one major directional load at a time. Max load can only come from a serious, factor 1.5 -2 fall. Toproping, rappelling, ordinary uses never come close to the limits of even poor knots and pro, BUT inadvertent shock loading of a system, from slack in a static personal anchor, or chains, even just a couple feet, can create very high peak forces our intuition simply doesn't foresee. All the experience, testing, and sharing by Yann and others adds to the general awareness and overall safety for all climbers, from the novice to the old diehards with half a century of hands-on learning, like myself. Thanks for the public service.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  Thanks so much for the comment!! I must note that some people discourage the use of rings because their smooth radius make them slip more. They promote “I-beem” shaped carabiners that create more friction in the girth hitch. I think I have heard this from Karsten Delap. Best Regards!!

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  @TomHumphries-gk6qfАй бұрын

  Yann,, would like to see your set up with the Petzl Mini Traxion 2023 for TRS!! Thanks 🙏

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  I will do that for my online TRS course buyers. Thanks for the interest!

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  @brutalxmurderrАй бұрын

  Жаль ты по русски не говоришь )

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  @stevenculver7228Ай бұрын

  Petzl specifically states that the Shunt should never be used for top rope solo. They recommend many others of their ascenders instead.

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  I agree. Too sad a lot of people still trust this device for TRS use!

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  @DaveEwen-dn2ytАй бұрын

  Cool to see this thanks. One other thing that comes to mind is water getting in the silent partner freezing the locking mechanism. Cheers

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  Exactly! That is a concern of mine. Also drying of the container water could be a problem as it is an enclosed mechanism.

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  @thedanishvikingpilgrim5753Ай бұрын

  Which type of carabiner do you recommend to use with the mini

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbingАй бұрын

  Depends for what use! For general use, an oval would be ideal. If you need to minimize the risks of “bad loading” at all costs (if the mini is not always tended by someone near), I have a complete list available to my online TRS and LRS students.

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  @denniswegner99242 ай бұрын

  You do know taht if you fall u dont fall at taht Speed you fall a lot fastet and wiht more weight Do it like it's made for wiht a humen atacht an fall

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  @YannCamusBlissClimbing2 ай бұрын

  Check the manual, this one is forbiden by Petzl for fall arrest. Nevertheless I tried it for top rope solo climbing (self-belay) in real life (not only testing) and it locked about 75-80% of the time. The other 20-25%, the backup caught. Clearly unreliable to me. And Petzl seem to concur.

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  @denniswegner99242 ай бұрын

  @@YannCamusBlissClimbing crazy my dosent do taht and who uses only one divice to secure them tahts prety stupid