Пікірлер

• 
  @vault_climbingАй бұрын

  "I would hang my gran off that" 🙂 haha - excellent video and really like the simple explanations of "angel" wings

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  @renatosureal2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the info; just what I needed to see !

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  @SUF-py4ix2 ай бұрын

  I’m no rock climber. But as a tree climber it was 8mm minimum and up to 10mm

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  @Latexskates2 ай бұрын

  Thank you sir

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  @ellavateify2 ай бұрын

  Really nice video thank you

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  @ellamorris9313 ай бұрын

  ‘I’d hang my granny off that’ 😂😂😂😂

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  @Need_for_cubing3 ай бұрын

  Very helpful

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  @user-du5dj3cg2q5 ай бұрын

  Hallo by cep from bandung indonesia I like video

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  @aidanschulze15726 ай бұрын

  Is there an advantage to using the classic prussik over the klemheist for the main cord? I've seen both in tutorials.

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  @blackhulk198410 ай бұрын

  can be use as top rope anchor system replace the sling?

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  @sam_farns_climbing10 ай бұрын

  No, that wouldnt be a recommended replacement for a sling... ...i'm sure you could figure something out but it'd be pretty 'non standard'. Good luck!

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  @alexanderSydneyOz11 ай бұрын

  It seems like it would be easier to push up if both feet were in a small loop, in the larger foot loop. Is there some reason to not do that, or is it simply that your typical climber considers that unnecessary?

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  @TheGunz00019 ай бұрын

  The free foot is for steady the swaying and to distance yourself from the cliff as you ascend. Otherwise as you push vertically upwards, your whole body slams horizontally into the cliff as the rope sways.

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  @josephsharp99393 ай бұрын

  Yeah the other foot is for control

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  @HondoTrailside11 ай бұрын

  It is funny how many trad videos there are, stupid term, where you see someone lace up a crack with cams that was originally climbed with a pocket full of pebbles. The engineer in me loves cams, they are just so cool, and I bought them and used them when they came out. But they hit the climbing world with a lot of skepticism (at least in the columns). People are still dissing Jardine for one supposed crime or another, and you can imagine the sigh of relief that followed the news that Honnold had climbed The Phoenix unroped solo: "Take that, Ray!" Cams were the beginning of the end. If you can just move your top rope up the crack, why not pepper crags with bolts. Trad was more a rack of stoppers and eccentrics. And if you survived teaching yourself to use those, the idea you need instruction on placing cams is funny.

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  @SM-wg5nh11 ай бұрын

  How do you do this with a half rope/half ropes please?

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  @2rfg94911 ай бұрын

  collies are the best :)

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  @largeformatlandscape11 ай бұрын

  Nice video… the only potential negative is having so much slack whilst clipping the cloves. If you did one at a time, the length of fall risk is reduced

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  @Captaraknospider11 ай бұрын

  Thank you for the video.

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  @ipomoea_batata990611 ай бұрын

  How unexpected ... tree surgeon (yes we also prusik, generally techniques are slightly different though) - here I am, watching a video for rock climbers and when you get to the end of the video - "We'll plant you a tree" ... Grand.

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  @ashleystirland Жыл бұрын

  dont like the prusik on leg loop to close to abseil devise risk of touching and slipping alway extend abseil devise with short sling to keep prusik safe

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  @joepetroske29457 ай бұрын

  It’s way faster and safe enough

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  @michaeldemasi1984 Жыл бұрын

  This system does not allow the belayer to tie off the belay device to escape the system if they need to rescue the seconder or haul them.

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  @michaeldemasi1984 Жыл бұрын

  It’s the most unconventional anchor I have ever seen

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  thanks for watching @michaeldemasi1984 - it's certainly not the easiest system to escape from you're right. But, of course, there are ways it can be done.

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  @michaeldemasi1984 Жыл бұрын

  @@sam_farns_climbing it also wouldn’t work on a multi-pitch climb if the leader is planning to also lead the next pitch

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  @michaeldemasi1984 yep - that's right again. It's not the easiest belay option for that particular scenario. Horses for courses!

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  @largeformatlandscape11 ай бұрын

  You learn tool kits to escape the system… might take about three or four minutes to do so.. also, it’s easy to block lead, ghe follower just cloves in the same way but underneath

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  @salihyigitbicer Жыл бұрын

  👾

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  @themeatpopsicle Жыл бұрын

  This is definitely called "toproping" in North America

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  Haha yep! Most people here in the UK as well would call this toproping. But... its just a way to help differentiate between where the belayer is positioned. If the belayer is sitting at the top holding the rope for someone climbing up.from below we'd call that toproping. And the setup in this video bottom roping. 👌 it's all semantics! As long as we're having fun climbing that's the main thing right?!

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  @JD-wk4us Жыл бұрын

  What crag is this

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  @dennisgarber Жыл бұрын

  The king Kisa and the slyde. A refresher on the set up is needed for me, since it has been a year since I have used these. Stopping distance (as I recall on the Kisa) was dramatically shorter when the rope was wet. Newtons law is essential to using these.

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  @mattbaker1683 Жыл бұрын

  Is this Lion Rock? Great venue to teach/learn, shame there's virtually no parking space! Great video. Another good reason to carry multiple prusiks. I have a beal jammy 22kN plus a 7mm cordlette prusik with 2 strands pulled, should be roughly equal (or greater) in strength to 6mm but wraps around the rope better and is easier to get it to grip. Andy K recommends a VT for this, something I'll have to experiment with, obviously in a safe location. And of course using the 22kN sewn one for life support carrying 100% load above the belay device.

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  It is indeed a little spot close to Lion Rock with a similar feel. I've never actually used 7mm cordlette so I should experiment with that. I'd be interested to see if it works ok on skinny ropes? What have you found? Yeah I also have a beal Jammy and love that reassuring 22kn tag! Thanks again for the comment. Appreciate ya!

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  @mattbaker1683 Жыл бұрын

  @@sam_farns_climbing with 2 strands pulled out it wraps in a tight radius, works well with double 8mm half ropes as well as 10mm static rope. I have heard of people pulling a single strand from 6mm cord, that's where it came from but to keep both the strength and the bigger diameter (=bigger surface area contact) I opted for 7mm. I absolutely hate using normal 6mm which is a fight to rig and is all or nothing in use. Needs to be cut cold then sealed afterwards. 👍

• 
  @richardruns4cake Жыл бұрын

  Much clearer than any other films on this ✅

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  Thanks Richard. Appreciate that. Sam

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  @richardruns4cake Жыл бұрын

  Really nice film 🎥. Clear and really good with no unnecessary faff ✅

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  @sam_farns_climbing Жыл бұрын

  ah, thanks. But watching it back myself there are a few things id do differently next time. thanks,

• 
  @largeformatlandscape Жыл бұрын

  Pac-Man! At least for those of a certain age… (

• 
  @emmaglass48742 жыл бұрын

  Me n the boys doing this straight away don’t see anything going wrong

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  @reubenmains86532 жыл бұрын

  Crocs are the best approach shoes. I get a lot of looks at the crags and on the trails for them. But I swear by them. Comfortable, convenient, and they have solid tred and in sport mode they are undeniable.

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Crocs for the win!

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  @HondoTrailside11 ай бұрын

  Not enough sole protection for me. But I gather there is a barista no slip version that at least has tremendous traction.

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  @mattbaker16832 жыл бұрын

  100% this is the most clear video I have ever seen on this, and I really like how you can see that the tail end can be tight in the harness tie in points. IMO much better than the BMC effort.

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  @mattbaker16832 жыл бұрын

  Nice one dude, thanks for the simple instruction. I'm compiling a little list of videos to send to a mate who has basic gear but no real experience with trad gear and routes (mostly indoor) and your videos are featured heavily. I'm a big fan of the inline method, so the 2 pieces on the right could become effectively one leg of a conventional masterpoint sling belay stacked, then the other one is the other leg of the sling belay. That would then make one single point to clip the rope, out of reach. I do like this method though and might try it. Never really thought of using a sling to create two isolated loops apart from when connecting 2 pieces to clip the shelf but no masterpoint. I think this is the confusing bit, and maybe needs a video of it's own to clarify when, and how to use which method. Also this place looks brilliant, is it Lion Rock? I have been to Union Rock over the water for a day with Go Vertical.

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  @mattbaker16832 жыл бұрын

  @Sam Farnsworth yeah I'd either do a long sling belay to a single 'out of reach' point or do each with the rope; needs a lot of spare though if they're not close and obviously out of reach single pieces need to be done separately from the harness and back. If using a sling it's often too short to make a 'W' to a masterpoint so I'd isolate a loop with an overhand for the first piece, then the overhand knot becomes the stop for the second. The other leg is to the 3rd piece and creates a V, that's what I meant by in-line. You can even do 3 in line with a 120 but there's not a lot of directional stability. It is often possible to use a 60 (alpine draw) to get 2 in line then use that as a single point rather like you did. The method shown is a bit of a combination, efficient with rope and gear. Your way is basically a 2 piece sling belay and clipped into the shelf rather than the masterpoint, one I'd never even considered. So many ways to do things, every day is a school day! All these things are easy to show but tough to describe. I did a 3 piece at Union Rock then had to run 60ft of rope out to get back to the edge! Would have used up all of my rope doing each piece separately.

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  @mattbaker16832 жыл бұрын

  I know that spot! Great little venue for teaching trad and lead climbing, needs a long static rope to get back near the edge or a good 3pc then out of reach clove hitched back to you for bringing up a 2nd for trad. Nice explaination.

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  @mattbaker16832 жыл бұрын

  Really nice video, thanks. Bomber anchor with those 3 good pieces all well equalised. I have yet to climb at Tremadog but I hear it's good, being Midlands based everywhere is more than an hour away, but subsequently we have the luxury of going where the weather is best. Shrewsbury/Shropshire, Wye valley, Bristol, Trevor and the South peaks are all 1-1.5hrs away. Proper Snowdonia and the Lake District is 3 hours.

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  @danielduda61112 жыл бұрын

  3:15 After you have tied the figure eight to the harness coupler, you should slide the Kong Slyde down to the coupler to use it as an absorber. It's not clear from the movie;) and someone might want to use it in an extended state. Regards, Dan.

• 
  @gabenemeth70122 жыл бұрын

  Great video

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Thanks for the visit

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  @corentinlemasnedechermont73192 жыл бұрын

  Can you use the ATC in guide mode in this way?

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  A lot of the same principles apply yes, but it's unusual to belay in 'guide mode' from an indirect belay like this. Guide mode would more commonly be used in a belay that comes to a central high point, separate from the belayers harness.

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  @user-zx2mm5ch6p2 жыл бұрын

  For the anchor, why did you decide to use overhands instead of alpine butterflies? (Not a criticism by the way, a general query)

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Alpine butterflies would work fine. For me they take a tiny bit longer to tie and I just find it quicker to fire in an overhand knot. Boom done.

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  @user-zx2mm5ch6p2 жыл бұрын

  @@sam_farns_climbing can’t say fairer than that! Thanks for replying

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  @penenow2 жыл бұрын

  could you put a loop in the middle for rappel device?

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  You sure could! But when rappeling id rather keep my lanyard free to clip in to the next anchor and set up a separate extension for the rappel device. The length on this lanyard wouldn't be long enough as well I think. And if you did make it long enough it would then be annoying in 90% of the situations you want it for!

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  @MOTOMINING2 жыл бұрын

  Is it possible to do this in reverse, like if you dropped into a canyon and wanted to go up the same way?

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Not totally sure I understand the question. But you could climb up the rope if it was already fixed above you yeah. kzread.info/dash/bejne/aJOg27ytlabXl8Y.html this video show an improvised way of doin gthis. Faster more efficient methods recommended if you know this is going to be part of your day.

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  @TheGartkd2 жыл бұрын

  Exactly what I was looking for and very informative! Thanks :)

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Glad it was helpful and thanks for the note! Happy climbing.

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  @douglasw26623 жыл бұрын

  Why not add a little more redundancy with a BHK or two figure of eights at the master point bruv? Also why two lockers for the first two pieces and a non-locker on the last leg? Also, why not retie the tail end back into the last piece for extra safety. Why do British hate cams? Use a cam in the system if you have!

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  @sam_farns_climbing3 жыл бұрын

  ha yeah - Douglas I cant get enough of those sweet sweet cams! Good points, all possibilities. Just keeping things nice and simple for the video I guess. And a locker might have been a good example on the last leg. The non-locker is actually suspended in space - not touching the rock and the others we're all touching rock. I think that's why we just just the nonlocker on that piece. Make sense?

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  @douglasw26623 жыл бұрын

  @@sam_farns_climbing makes sense. Personally, I tie cloves for the last leg on lockers considering you won't be able to monitor the system once down but it being suspended does make me feel better. Thanks bruv! 🤙

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  @sam_farns_climbing3 жыл бұрын

  @@douglasw2662 Perfect. Cheers for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.

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  @iankeck34193 жыл бұрын

  I would use a butterfly knot to isolate the damage instead of an overhand knot.

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  yeah that would work a treat. Nice one!

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  @andrewmanger99113 жыл бұрын

  It's not safe to climb a prusik into your leg loop, either the prusik or rappel device should be extend from your harness and the other should be kept close, but both should be attached to the tie in points/belay loop.

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  @mar5042 жыл бұрын

  Forgive my ignorance as I'm new to rappelling, but why is it not safe? Nearly all of the information I've seen so far suggest this is the commonly taught placement for a backup. Strength wise it seems like it should be fine, though not as strong as the tie in/belay loop it should easily support your weight even though it only needs to supply braking force and not take your full weight. Can you share your take on it?

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Hey I agree that the method of abseiling that we suggest switching to is not the absolute best abseiling/rappeling method. However, it is totally workable and most importantly in this case it is the simplest to switch over to when passing a knot. If you skip to this point kzread.info/dash/bejne/dqdnuqmykr3JYps.html in the video here you'll see our recommended standard set up. Happy climbing. Sam

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  I think the disadvantage that could be suggested of the rappeling methos we switch over to after passing the knot is that.... there isnt so much distance between the prusik and the abseil device. Its conceivable that the prusik would be released if it comes into contact with the abseil device as it rises up the rope as it begins to act as a break. Hope that makes some sense?!

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  @pascaljutras1782 жыл бұрын

  prusik in leg loop is not totally safe if you don't have extension on rappel device, if you pass out for any reason your leg may lift up and prussik may fail by getting contact with the rappel device. Extension may give hard time to move out the first prusik, harder but safer in my opinion. I will try this for sure in my backyard and see...

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  @lukeaurand572211 ай бұрын

  This “rule” can be broken under certain circumstances. There’s a lot of dogma in climbing to keep jerry’s from getting killed but by the time you are doing real alpine or complex routes almost every “rule” you have been taught will be broken under the right context in order to increase security or deal with certain situations

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  @rickedeckard20063 жыл бұрын

  New tool added to my box. Thank for the vid!

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  @sam_farns_climbing3 жыл бұрын

  thanks for the comment. Good luck, safe climbing!

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  @sdoowramaj3 жыл бұрын

  I was always not to clip into the shelf without something in the masterpoint. If the overhand rolls off the end of that slippery dyneema the carabiner won't be attached to anything.

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  @sam_farns_climbing3 жыл бұрын

  Hi there Jamar - thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it. Yep, your correct. If we managed to generate a really massive force the overhand knot might 'undress' and another carabiner might help in that scenario. Certainly no problem with having one there, in the masterpoint. If the masterpoint loop is really tight that would be more likely, I've never seen or heard of this happening in real life application though. Have you? I'd be interested to hear about it. Thanks. Sam

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  @EvanWisheropp3 жыл бұрын

  First time in 20+ years heaering "bottom roping"

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  @sam_farns_climbing3 жыл бұрын

  Perhaps there is no need to make the differentiation between where the belayer is located (either at the top - or at the bottom) with the term used -'Bottom roping' or 'top roping'. Either way I hope the video explains this example clearly to folks looking for a reminder on their climbing systems.

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  @thegingerpowerranger3 жыл бұрын

  how do you do this when there is no sport rings?

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  @harlinbrandvold88273 жыл бұрын

  There should always be some form of hardware to lower/rap off of at the top of a single pitch. If there's nothing at the top to lower off of (Just raw hangers for example), then you will have to leave one or two carabiners behind to lower off of. Then you should probably make local route developers aware of the issue by contacting them directly or posting on mountainproject.

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  @mountbeckworth13 жыл бұрын

  Well done. And the music wasn't intrusive.

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  @mountbeckworth13 жыл бұрын

  Thanks. But couldn't hear some of your speech because of the music.

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Yeah thanks for the feedback. This video thing is tricky ay!

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  @derekcraig36173 жыл бұрын

  A great video for the 1970s or for total emergencies. But nowadays most of us have various light and small rope grabbing devices at our disposal.

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  @sam_farns_climbing2 жыл бұрын

  Hey Derek - just noticed this comment. Thanks for watching, we appreciate it! It would be interesting to know the difference in proportion of people carrying specialist rope grabbing devices, and the differences between say the US, UK, and Europe. I dont see many people carrying them here... yet!

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  @menakles Жыл бұрын

  I don't think that's true. I virtually never carry a shunt but almost always have a couple of prussiks on my harness if I'm on a multi-pitch or sea cliff.