WELCOME!
This channel is all about me repairing cars and attempting to show you how you could go about doing the same repair, or in some cases, showing you what not to do so you don’t make the same mistakes that I might make.
The videos on this channel won’t be about my car only, but rather about any car that I can get my hands on. But mostly 90s, early, and mid 2000s Japanese cars.
If you have any suggestions, comments, or advice, let me know in the comments!
For collaborations, please mail me at [email protected]
I hope this is helpful and that you enjoy watching my videos!
Follow me on Instagram for any updates and stuff that isn't KZread worthy: instagram.com/autofix.cris/?hl=en
or just search @autofix.cris
Пікірлер
I'm doing my 1999 Toyota Aristo with sat nav gps and the stock amp is located in the boot. 😢
Very informative video, i didn’t know how the Led side in the bulb needed to sit inside the housing. Thanks man
Do you know what's the original size of the exhaust pipe?
2.25" all the way back
@@AutoFixYT Thank you 👍
How much miles till you change that transmission fluid because mine looks no where near as dark. Mine is red with little slight tint a of gray 109000 miles toyota avalon
You desirve a subscribe man
Thank you!
This also as easy to the front sway bar bushings?
I just watched a video and you're taking more steps to take out your CV shaft. The other channel didn't bother with the brake lines.
I did it so I wouldn't accidentally overstretch it. You do you, I'd you don't want to remove it then definitely do it your way. I take shortcuts sometimes that work well as long as I'm careful. Sometimes the risk is worth it ;)
@@AutoFixYT If you removed the lower ball join nut and a linkage nut, the brake lines wouldn't stretch. I have a bad vibration when I accelerate so I'm not looking forward on replacing my driver side cv shaft.
Would you recommend me changing the transmission fluid on my 300 K mile one will it be safe? I don’t think it’s been done in a while.
Doesn't matter how many miles the vehicle has, it matters how many it's been since the last change. The only way to know is to pull a sample. Sometimes this can be as little as what's on the dip stick. Smell it and look at it on a white paper towel or napkin. If it smells burnt and is black like used oil or worse, it's cooked and it's too late, don't change it. If it smells like transmission fluid still and isn't black, you can change it.
OK so I just checked it it’s not completely black, but is brown kind of like used motor oil. Is it still safe to have changed by the dealer? And also thanks for your help!
@coleromani8420 if you don't think it smells burnt then yeah have them change it. Not flush it, just drain and fill.
@@AutoFixYT thanks for your advice 👍
I have a "Heritage" supercab 2004 with a 6.ft bed. I beefed up the leaf spring as it's carrying a 1200lb camper. What a diffence. Just picked it up today. Not cheap here in Alaska but nothing is. Great little V-6 truck. BTW my little gem has just turned 84,000 miles. Owner was a mining engineer and spent most of his time at Red Dog mine. Hardly drove it.
That's awesome! These are great trucks indeed and I have learned a lot about them and have learned to appreciate them way more than i used to before I owned one.
@@AutoFixYT Great little trucks. Good luck.
Thank you good video
Thanks!
so easiest way to instal them in projector housing will be to put an arrow with marker on bulb that shows top and bottom so you can turn them enough to know how they are positionited easy you can try
Yeah that would work well! Thanks for the tip!
If your early model Lexus came with the Navigation system (my GS400 did), which also controls the HVAC (Heat/Vent/Air Conditioning), removing the outdated Navigation unit also removes your HVAC! I thought I was doomed for a minute. However, you likely have another option. As you can see in this video, models that did not have the Navigation system have a separate, single-DIN HVAC controller (shown above the factory radio at the beginning of this video). My Navigation unit sat in the top, and had a tape deck underneath. I found this separate HVAC controller module online, used for cheap. It fit perfectly in the space, and the electrical plugs that were removed from the Navigation model plugged right in to this standalone HVAC controller!
Re: Replacing the HVAC servo motors comment below, there are videos showing how to clean the encoder wheel, which worked on my GS400. You likely don't have to buy a new servo.
Don't buy a new servo! First, take the current servo out, and clean the encoder wheel and copper brush ends. Add a bit of dielectric (non-conductive) grease to the encoder wheel and gears. This is the best video showing how to remove/replace the mode select servo, but in many cases, you don't need to spend hundreds of $ on a new servo. Note: The fresh/cabin air selector servo is just to the right of the mode select servo, but tricky to remove. Re: Just clean and re-use your servo, search for "Lexus Air Conditioning Servo Repair and Cleaning Guide".
Im working on the exact same car right now lol Its a '94, but its a wagon in the same color. Great video!
That's awesome!
Great video, wish i had your patience.
Well... i didn't have another option haha but also it was a learning experience for me.
Do you have to jack the wheels up aswell or is it doable just putting car on stands ?? Only have stands and one jack
I'm sure you can do it differently than how i did it.
@AutoFixYT I ended up borrowing a second jack from a friend so I'll just do it same way u did hahah my cars about to pass a wof because of all ir videos !!! Last mission rear engine mount wish me luck
@@KentuckyFriedKiwi haha you got this!
Those little ones are rebrands as Auxito. CLR tested those called Auxito - 10S. They produce 16.5W per bulb after the observation. And they get warm up to 141 degrees Fahrenheit. Which is very good. The lower the temperature, the better the lifespan is. The higher the wattage and temperature, the shorter the lifespan is.
I will look into that, thank you!
I’m so glad there’s still more and more people that knows how led bulb works. Two sided led bulbs with big enough heatsink and cooling fan. A two sided led chips such as CSP,ZES,CSP flip chips, SMD, Osram, LMP, and Cree led chips that’s the same size of the halogen coil filament, with very thin center piece of the led bulbs works a lot better than halogen, and way better than those dreadful. Disgusting, horrible 3-4-5-6 sided or 360 degree cone shape led, square shape with a bubble led, or double stack led will never perform the same as original halogen headlight bulbs. I had an argument with one dude sayin u know nothing about led, yes we do. With lots of research, see them testing, lots of education. We truly do. Thanks to headlight revolution, car light reviews, Sergiu garbor, and bulbfacts. If it wasn’t for them, this would not happen.
I immediately laughed because my hood doesn't stay open too. 2007
Lol yeah they all do this eventually
I need the plug schematics for this dealer
Thanks about to attempt my sons 99 es300..
Hope it goes smoothly! Make sure you get the right torque specs and parts. In this video I'm working on a GS300 not an ES300. Big difference in components and I'm sure the torque spec is different too.
Bro just put some switch back led bulbs in the turn signal light
You know, as much as I love LEDs, i kinda prefer the incandescent style blinking for the turn signals. I'm weird.
My new timing belt does not have lines on it for timing marks?
Some don't, that's ok. You don't need them. Just need to make sure the cam and crank sprockets are lined up, and that you leave all the slack on the tensioner side.
If there is oil residue on the plug what should I check
Then you have a spark plug tube seal leak which in turn means you need to do valve cover gaskets. They all come as a set. So you do both valve cover gaskets as well as all 6 spark plug tube seals.
There are a ton of videos on how to fix little things on these trucks such as your keypad not working and your broken spring in your cup holder. Most are super easy to fix.
Yes there are!
@AutoFixYT Whats wrong with the keypad?
@@kykrazy6050 nothing, works great!
Nice truck!!! Fog lights however are not stock.
Thanks! They were replaced with new ones but still OEM style
I have the 98 of this car. Doors are much of the same. Love your educational video!
Thank you!
Hey how have these parts held up, mine need replaced aswell it’s hard to decide what brand to go with. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Held up fine for me! They're still on the car now doing well
Rocking video bud you have a really good voice and clarity
Thank you!
DID YOU HAVE TO RE AIM THE LIGHTS?
Yes, always after replacing or removing and reinstalling headlight assemblies.
I bought an 06 ranger in Colorado brand new. They don't use salt out there. I retired to North Carolina about 5 years ago. Its got about 160,000 miles. I'll keep it till it dies. Change your fluids! It should last another 10 years. 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual. I don't know how many people have come up to me over the years and ask me if I wanted to sell if.
Yeah I believe it, i sold it a couple years ago because I needed something bigger, but it was a great truck while i had it!
4 wheel drive too
@@johnhorton1862 Nice
Hi, first thanks for sharing and helping in a simple way. The GS300 has 2 servos? If yes, how do you access the other one?
Yes these cars have multiple servo motors. I believe the other one that you're looking for is also behind the dash there somewhere.
Thank you ! It helped me for my 1994 starlet
Glad it helped!
Your videos make life so much easier. Great work man!
Thank you!
I'll pay you to fix my head gasket leak😅
Lol I don't have the time nor the space at the moment.
Such a compact spot for the last 3 smfh
Not that bad, I've done way worse lol
Best Video out there for a 97' Corolla/Prizm. I'm sure my Prizm will need this very soon as the relay was replaced but I'm still getting a random click/no start. Thank you.
Yeah sounds like a bad starter or starter solenoid if it's clicking but doing nothing.
@@AutoFixYT Strange thing is it starts when the air temperature is cooler and problems start (click) when it's around 70° or warmer. That is stumping me. Something's expanding and preventing a connection. I'm going to replace the whole part instead of messing around (180k miles and still runs like a charm!)
Your patience for this is amazing.
Thank you! I kind of had to have the patience, i had no other choice haha but I also wanted to show people how it's done.
Open fill cap FIRST Always something missing in these types of video
What's that going to do?
@@AutoFixYT dude think
@@MontyGumby Please enlighten me and share your thoughts on this.
@@AutoFixYT how about a hint: pressure
@MontyGumby The crankcase is not under vacuum nor pressure. There are breathers. Next time you change oil, try draining it without removing the filler cap, you'll see that there is no difference in oil flow. What you're referring to is only applicable to cooling systems, hydraulic power steering, and in some cases braking systems, but even those will drain with the master cylinder cap on. Engines, transmissions, differentials, and even transfer cases all have breathers and are never meant to operate under vacuum or pressure.
While you have it apart, shouldnt you have replaced the boots with new ones?
Not if they're still good. You only need to replace them if they're broken or swollen.
Just bought a 95 Camry 4 cylinder with 280k miles, nice little work commute car and they are solid & dependable. Thanks for this video, im going to flush out my transmission and hopefully that helps
Nice! Make sure the fluid isn't back like used engine oil and smells burnt like it's been overheated almost. If it does, don't change it or you will probably start losing gears. That usually means the transmission is gonna need a rebuild at this point.
man i wanted to change my ball joints the bolts where sooo rusted i couldn’t take em off even if i heat them up soo i had to change the wheel hub and everything from 2 tires having a really rusty car frame is the worst thats why i always tell people every weekend wash the buttom frame so all that mudd or salt from snow goes away cause thats what eats and rust the frame i live in washington state and cars are not even close to rusty from the car frame
Yeah rust is a huge car killer, you can't have a nice daily driver AND have it be rust free unless you live down south.
This is a great video. Very detailed. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Glad it helped!
Hey brother man, watched your video and did everything as you did except I was struggling with the cam shafts and harmonic balancer. Ended up accidentally turning them all individually (which I think messed up some kinda timing) I’m not hearing any clanking or ticking or anything but I marked all the shafts and old belt with the new. Got everything back put together and went to start up, car cranks but didn’t start, took everything back apart and tried to confirm the timing belt was aligned properly with the engravings within the shafts and the covers and everything looked good, put all together and tried again.. didn’t start again, put the old belt back on lining up all the marks from before and gave it another go, car started but it ran like absolute poop. Very high idle, still overheating and car wouldn’t go faster then 5-10 mph, didn’t have any of these issues before only the car was overheating. Doesn’t make any sense to me, from what I can tell the belt is aligned properly with all the marks and all the marks are all aligned TDC. Any advice on what to do? The car starts and runs now but it struggles to start and when it’s running it idles very high (around 1800-2000rpm) and shakes a bunch. Again, no ticking or mocking so I believe valves and pistons are good. Just not sure what’s going on
Don't worry about the fact that you spun the cams and crank individually. It doesn't matter as long as you put them back at TDC when the belt goes on. Also, spinning them by hand will not do any damage to the valves even if they hit. You can't spin it fast enough and hard enough to bend a valve, at leats not on that engine. On some yes, not on that one. So first thing i would recommend doing is to check all the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. If you are sure those are not a problem, you have to be 100% sure that the mechanical timing is set right (as in the cam and crank sprockets on the timing belt) but it seems as though you checked it countless times already (but that doesn't mean you didn't make a mistake several times, trsut me, I've been there before). Another thing you can do is put a scan tool on the car and watch live data. Watch MAF data, upstream O2 sensor data, cam position and crank position data, misfire data, timing advance (sometimes called spark advance). There are so many things you can watch live to see what is happening. Hopefully you're able to do that. With OBD2 cars, scan tools and live data is a must for diagnosing certain engine issues. The fact that it shakes a lot, to me that means it has a misfire or its so out of time that it's causing a misfire. High idle is usually caused by a vacuum leak or excess air entering the cylinder. That can be caused by the timing being off too. There fact that it's overheating however, makes me worry about the head gaskets. Overheat for? How bad did it overheat? And is it actually overheating or is it the coolant temp sensor that is bad and reading high? What is the computer getting for information on engine coolant temperature? If the sensor is not reading right and the computer is getting false readings, it will cause it to not start and run like it should. When coolant temperature is low, the computer will dump fuel in to make it warm up faster. When it's hot it will enter closed loop and will start running off of the O2 sensors and MAF sensors mainly, as in its self adjusting. When it's overheating it will pull back fuel and timing. I hope this helps!
No need to cut sway bar link Allen key goes in the bolt to stop it from moving..
Well... yes, in theory. When you work on rusty old cars with original links that have been on there for 20 years and 200k miles, that theory immediately goes out the window and you just find the easiest and quickest way to remove them lol
@@AutoFixYT I have never had a problem in 48 years of nuts n bolts some of the things I see done to cars is sad look after customers.
@neilasd3043 i get that it might look hack but I even said in the video, i was planning on replacing them anyway. So why waste time. Regardless, what part of the country do you work on cars in?
Amazing video! Was wondering what the two hoses on the back are called? Mine are starting to crack and I was going to replace them at the same time. Thank you so much!
One is the PCV hose, the other is just a vacuum hose. Replace them if you want, I actually just deleted mine completely. The PCV is routed to a catch can and vented to atmosphere, and the other smaller hose is capped off on both ends.
@@AutoFixYT Thank you sm!!!
Automotive engineers in America and in Germany are absolutely horrid. They also work for terrible companies run by clueless CEOs and upper management.
Lol yeah or... planned obsolescence
Got a question. What happens when you change the T5 bulb as well? Does it make any difference?
No, those are not for the backlight