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  @mikesimmonds19162 күн бұрын

  I'm going to have to send this to Hyundai UK as my box need a full repair at 13 thousand miles. Could this magnet be removed as preventative measure and a magnetic sump-plug be used instead?

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  @boredKiwi2 күн бұрын

  Removing the rattling factory magnet and using a magnetic plug instead would make the reducer as reliable as those in any other EV. But the dealer will replace the gear reducer as a unit, perhaps even including the motor. As far as I know the factory are still unaware of this design defect. But you can certainly avoid another failure by changing the oil on the new unit at around 300-500 miles, then again at perhaps 1,000 miles to remove break-in particles that the factory magnet fails to hold. I posted similar advice on SpeakEVs Kona EV forum about this just today.

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  @mikesimmonds1916Күн бұрын

  I saw a video with a scope making the magnet with a hand held external magnet. Could a neo magnet glued externally hold the little sod down through the casing?

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  @boredKiwiКүн бұрын

  @@mikesimmonds1916 tried it for a few months, made no difference.

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  @mikesimmonds19165 күн бұрын

  Does this relate to excessive and early final drive wear on the kona ev?

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  @boredKiwi5 күн бұрын

  Yes, but only because the factory magnet contained inside the gear reducer fails to sequester ferrous wear particles because it's allowed to rattle around in a small pocket while driving. This test pertains to demonstrating that particles on a magnet are not removed by being exposed to high fluid turbulence. However, I used cold-filed particles in my test while in fact those in the gear reducer have undergone exposure to a high temperature at the moment they are worn off and won't have as strong an attraction to a magnet. The secret to obtaining a long life from a Kona gear reducer is to change the oil at 300 km / 500 miles from new and again at 1,500 km / 1000 miles. If dealers had provided this service as a workaround to Hyundai's design defect there wouldn't be so many problems. There's been no factory correction on first-gen models (2018 - 2023) but 2nd-gen (2024+) are not affected.

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  @Tim_Small17 күн бұрын

  Any idea if this problem has been addressed in later manufacturing? I've just bought a used 2020 Kia E Niro (AKA Niro EV) which has done 143000 km. Whilst the dealer had it, they noticed noise which they originally suspected was brake noise, but their local Kia dealer said that a motor+transmission change was needed, and did-so under warranty. New motor is Hyundai part no 36500 - 0E712. Would you still recommend the early oil change?

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  @boredKiwi17 күн бұрын

  There's been no sign to date that Hyundai-Kia have fixed the gear reducer but that motor is the latest revision. With a new gear reducer you have a perfect opportunity to avoid a repeat failure by simply carrying out an early oil change - and ideally installing a pair of magnetic plugs ASAP, but check with the dealer if you have a lot of warranty left. I've been recommending 500 km based on one case in Australia but in another recent case here in NZ it was clean at 500 but then contaminated at 3,000 km. It may depend on how hard you drive the car. If you're not able to DIY then an independent shop that services the Nissan Leaf may be far less expensive than the dealer, just supply the oil. I do stay in touch with Niro forums at SpeakEV and InsideEVs. www.speakev.com/forums/kia-niro.298/ www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?forums/kia-niro.56/

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  @pbelb21 күн бұрын

  Nice!!! I suspect this kind of replacement of logic control would likely be similar for the Studer B67?

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  @boredKiwi20 күн бұрын

  What I've done is really not a substitute for the transport logic control but only the three TCA561 servo amplifiers. If the B67 has TCA561 failures there is a plug-in replacement you can have fabricated, found on the Tape Heads forum. That is a far easier option. There is another design for the SC10429P logic chip as well. Neither were available when I did this work.

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  @quietsparks17912 ай бұрын

  This makes perfect sense. My kia e niro is making a milling or grinding sound. This useless magnet, which cannot be cleaned when changing oil is the one that is causing trouble because it is loose and keeps banging on the casing side to side!

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  @boredKiwiАй бұрын

  Unfortunately I haven't seen any evidence yet that Hyundai/Kia have resolved this on replacement gear reducers. But, a very early oil change will reveal that, somewhere around 500-1000 km or 300-800 miles. I've heard of one recently (4 weeks ago) which came out clean so there is a chance.

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  @quietsparks1791Ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi for the first ever seeing a gearbox that needs magnets to clean the oil. I had a citroen and done over 200,000 miles without any issues.

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  @boredKiwiАй бұрын

  ​@@quietsparks1791, any gearbox without a magnet is the exception rather than the rule, especially in industrial applications. Its presence may not always be obvious but it's rarely missed, even in cost-cut consumer products. And it wasn't missed in this case either, just mis-applied. Have a read: www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/794/magnetic-filtration

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  @quietsparks1791Ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi very interesting. For me, the thing is to remove the reduction gear unit, drill 2 holes both sides of the magnet housing and tie the magnet to secure it. Then atleast every 20,000 miles, remove the reduction gear unit to clean the magnet. Or, remove the magnet completely and use magnetic drain plugs.

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  @boredKiwiАй бұрын

  @@quietsparks1791 the latter idea would be ideal but from my experience an oil change once a year keeps the oil sufficiently clean.

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  @maxxim4yt2 ай бұрын

  excellent, thanks

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  @1234nervo4 ай бұрын

  I have the same problem with an a700 can you help me

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  @boredKiwi4 ай бұрын

  Did you follow the link provided after the only other post?

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  @1234nervo4 ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi yes i read tapehead

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  @Shiggy9385 ай бұрын

  Kiwi - Thanks for the document on the gear oil issue. I created one for myself and will replace it with your much more complete one.

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  @anhbaoconnecticut31287 ай бұрын

  Wow amazing! I have A700 Revox currently in the shop for repair.

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  @robviously-rob0ts9 ай бұрын

  This is what's included in the reduction gear from the factory?

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  @sc0or10 ай бұрын

  Hi. FYI TDA1000, TC561 and their components is all together called PLL. Your link to tapeheads is incomplete by the way

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  Thanks, fixed the link. I kind of understood it was a PLL but not being an expert did not want to assume.

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  @sc0or9 ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi Thank you that fixed. You've made a great implementation. I like how it solves a problem of 360 phase shift. Safe and fast.

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  @gbclab10 ай бұрын

  Hello, I would like to replicate the project, I found the schematics on the forum but no code, can you share it with me? Greetings

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  Ok, I posted a link today on the same forum.

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  @gbclab10 ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi thank you very much my friend

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  This video is a follow-up to my video last year where I first used the camera and left three of those disk magnets glued in place. 3,800 km later it seems to have helped reduce the oil blackness so I refined the location of the magnets and added two more for a total of five. It seems to take strong field to influence the factory magnet and hopefully prevent it from moving around under the influence of oil turbulence. kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Wpu7yJhM7Jnaw.html

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  @crealhill307210 ай бұрын

  hi, very very nice works on your A700. I also have 2 A700 at home. i have fully serviced the first one, but the second still need some work. Can you share the code and the schematic of your ESP32 mods/repair? I would like to try many updates and mods on my second A700. Thanks and BRAVO

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  The schematic and code are attached to this post www.tapeheads.net/threads/a700-restoration-started-deciding-how-far-to-go.99864/post-775712978

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  @berlininn11 ай бұрын

  What a fantastic video. I have one question on my A700. I can fast forward the machine but not backwards. Any help for me? I'm living in Florida and nobody wont touch this machine.

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  @boredKiwi11 ай бұрын

  If it Plays normally with both reels 'pulling' the tape tight at either side of the capstan then everything outside of the main controller IC should be working. If the lamp behind the Rewind button illuminates when the button is pushed than the controller IC is sensing and reacting to the pushbutton switch. If not it could be the switch contacts or the microcontroller is faulty on that input. If you can make a video of the Play, Fast forward and Rewind actions and post a link here I may be able to help further.

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  @boredKiwi11 ай бұрын

  August 2023, I'm now back to working on improving the design. I've gone back to the OEM MJ411 power transistors for the 2 reel motors as the motors seem to run quieter than with the power Darlingtons. I've carefully characterised the motor static torque response to base drive and revised the amplifier design to match that. Lastly I characterised the tension arm output voltage vs tension. Once I modify the 2 drive amps I need to re-characterise all these again directly from the ESP's I/O and decide if I should linearise the hardware response using lookup tables in the hopes of improving the stability under PID control. I've also noticed ongoing electrostatic discharge from the reels when fast-winding, which oddy upsets the power supply 24V output. I had already added grounding brushes to the reel motor shafts (tail-end) but now have cleaned the paint off the reel tables to get nearly zero resistance from reel to chassis. Hope that fixes it and I wonder now if the stock Revox paint that peels off over time was conductive? The capstan operation (in PWM) seems to be OK so I'll probably leave that alone for now. I'm still running the reel motors in linear mode (as OEM) but always have the option to use PWM if that doesn't work out. Once I have something that works better than before I'll publish the schematic and code so that other owners of the A700 can have a go if they wish. EDIT: Work complete, see description above for details. EDIT JAN 2024: I also found that one of the two power switch poles had intermittent contact which is why I was seeing brown-outs while fast winding. Another major fix was to offset the start of drive voltage demand for each reel motor transistor such that the resulting motor torque characteristic appeared more linear to the PID controllers. That corrected the poor tape tension control when entering Play at 15 IPS. On Tapeheads.net there is a thread with the drawings and PCB files needed to replicate this. A demo has been added here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y22LucyMpbDSnqg.html

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  @electrohoard Жыл бұрын

  I also have a bad A700 with bad TCA561. It would be nice if you could share your ESP32 project o help many others like me :)

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  Although it works at a basic level It really needs more development. Are you able to construct such a board from a schematic and install it as I've done?

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  @electrohoard Жыл бұрын

  @@boredKiwi yes sure! Im used to dealing with electronics and have a degree, dont worry about that. I never programmed an ESP32 before but it will be nice to learn, if you could share your findings and project!

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  @@electrohoard ok, that's good. The project needs electronic expertise that I'm less experienced with. What it needs for improvement is the design of an amplifier to interface the microcontroller analog output of 0-3V and the power transistor driving the reel motors to provide a roughly linear torque relationship. That transistor is normally a MJ411 but I'm using MJ10012 because I can buy these locally. My 2-transistor design doesn't provide good linearity over the full range. You could help by developing that circuit that you could test on your machine. The microcontroller part is working reasonably well and I can provide a schematic and code.

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  @crealhill3072 Жыл бұрын

  @@boredKiwi Hi, I also have two A700 at home. One fully serviced by me and i perfect working order. The other have a bad TCA, can you also share the Code and schematics with me? Thanks

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  @@crealhill3072 the output circuits needs more work, outlined above, and I've started that. There's little point in releasing anything until I've finished that work, perhaps 4th quarter this year.

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  @pernicolaisen Жыл бұрын

  Hello! I am really impressed of your work and i have the same question as n.n. samoht9150. I am at the moment working with replacing the tape transport logic IC SC10429 on my A700. I haven't yet completed this work, but it will happen. I am using an ardunio uno as a controller, but in my planning, i will use an ESP32. I think that it would be handy to use wifi for remote, together with an updated tape lenght/ time counter. I will also replace the VU-meters with a TFT display - replicating the Original VU-Meter assembly.

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  Thanks. Was that your thread on AudioKarma a few months ago?

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  @ColocasiaCorm Жыл бұрын

  I wish I was smart and hard work

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  This sort of repair may look daunting in its entirety but in fact is just the sum of many small simple tasks done one at a time. It doesn't take an extensive knowledge of either electronics, programming or control systems but does require significant time to complete those many tasks and remain confident that it cannot fail to work.

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  @meshplates Жыл бұрын

  This is incredible. I'm flabbergasted.

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  Thanks ... It's been quite a marathon effort overall but each of the many subtasks were relatively straightforward. The restoration and ESP additions took about 3 months of between 2 and 6 hours a day. I'm still working on the audio section which has been almost as challenging to locate and replace sub-standard components. The end goal here is mostly to learn from the experience (I'm retired) and rescue a nice example of a 50-year old tape recorder, at least to the point where it works to a minimal standard and I can confidently display it in my living room.

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  @n.n.samoht9105 Жыл бұрын

  Hello the fault of the TCA561 comes often to the king of open reel to reel tape recorder A700. Will and can you share the schematic and the ESP32 sketch for others? Thanks for your video and your work Thomas

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  I will consider that on a case-by-case basis. It really needs more refinement to be directly transferable to other A700 machines. I would prefer others take on the challenge in a similar way and add their unique expertise. It could even be done using only op-amps and logic gates.

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  @thomasadmiral3401 Жыл бұрын

  Did you leave this magnet there and use the car like that?

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  @paulaxford6754 Жыл бұрын

  Yes, they are glued on and I'm hoping it will constrain the internal magnet to wander around less. I've only put 1,000 km on the Kona since Nov 2022 so I have a long way to reach 4,000 km so I can do an apples to apples comparison.

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  @thomasadmiral3401 Жыл бұрын

  @@paulaxford6754 understand ,thanks

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  As a note, I changed the oil 3,800 km after those magnets were fitted and there was a noticeable improvement in the oil cleanliness. I've moved the magnets slightly and added 2 more for a total of 5.

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  @ferixp10 ай бұрын

  @@boredKiwi Can you please post a frontal picture of the exact sweet spot for the magnets? It is difficult to judge from this angle. Even 1 mm off is a big deal. Great service to the community, very much appreciated!

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  @@ferixpthe photo is at this post. www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/repair-issues-and-fixes.7097/page-38#post-203245

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  @vernonbrechin4207 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you for your very persistent investigative work. It does look like the loose magnet is likely to be the cause of the widely reported darkened oil found at even relatively low milage/kms. Ceramic magnet materials are very hard and if this is eroding into the oil those particles will act as an abrasive. The standard oil analysis tests are unlikely to identify this abrasive material. Let's hope that after more than three years of this reported contamination problem that Hundai Motors begins to recognize it and addresses the cause.

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  You've described it in a nutshell! I'm debating whether I should send my importer or the factory another email, as neither have replied to prior queries. I hope my experimental attachment of the magnets to the underside confines the internal magnet to a tighter orbit, but due to both having axisymmetric field patterns it couldn't influence the spinning. But even if it did work it could be a difficult modification to roll out among owners, many who are understandably already past comprehending the implications. Unfortunately I've noted that the Ioniq 5 (and consequently the Kia EV6) have a similar internal magnet retention arrangement. But they also have an oil filter screen and pump to cool the motor stator. On one hand the screen will catch larger particles but on the downside it could clog and reduce oil flow or damage the electric oil pump.

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  @vernonbrechin4207 Жыл бұрын

  @@boredKiwi - Keep us informed of your attempts to alert higher-ups in the chain of command. They may not want to believe what you found, or simply rationalize it has no significant consequence. One aspect of your finding is that it is likely due to a slow mechanical erosion of the aluminum magnet pocket meaning only very small particles are scraped from the surface and then suspended in the oil before being smashed into tiny flattened aluminum flakes. I'm most worried about the small amount of surface erosion of the ceramic magnet which appears to be more of a problem than a cleaning solution. After seeing your suggestions I hope to do my first oil change at about 24,000 miles, making sure the case is well flushed, and to install the suggested magnetic drain plug. Depending on the space at that location I might glue two stacks of the rare-earth magnets where the inner magnets held onto the external magnets shown in your video. Perhaps if the pole orientations were opposite and somewhat separated then they might form a tighter 'grip' on the inner magnet. A bench test might provide you with an idea of what configuration could work best to minimize the internal magnet movements. It did look like it is a ring magnet. Perhaps someone who has an open case can supply a closeup image of the internal magnet and the travel path as seen from the outside surface of the case.

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  @@vernonbrechin4207 thanks for your comments. I oriented and secured the exterior magnets to attract the internal magnet away from the nib at the left. It will be some months before I find out if this has any effect but meanwhile my impression is that the car runs more quietly than it ever has. Generally I keep a thread going on InsideEVs as KiwiME with the latest news on the subject: www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/repair-issues-and-fixes.7097/page-31#post-186810

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  @boredKiwi10 ай бұрын

  @@vernonbrechin4207 I recently changed the oil again after a 3,800 km period (it was green rather than black this time) and refined the location of the stack of magnets underneath. I think it's helping but needed a stronger field so I added more for a total of 18mm dia x 15mm high. Interestingly and almost puzzlingly the car seems to run quieter now. www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/repair-issues-and-fixes.7097/page-38#post-203245

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  @boredKiwi9 ай бұрын

  @@vernonbrechin4207 Another relevant update is that the Go Green Autos channel stripped an Ioniq GRU (only slightly different from the Kona) and did not see any obvious wear from the magnet moving inside its pocket. Not sure what to make of that. kzread.info/dash/bejne/f6WWzM2fqa3apqg.html

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  Used oil reports: drive.google.com/file/d/18XsnmXd2WgqBwPVeOpOIlThFlAk98XYs/view?usp=drive_link Pictorial summary of oil condition: drive.google.com/file/d/1hT_rh4A95hSA6ALUEqiG--pMvxIaKxGH/view?usp=sharing

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  @boredKiwi Жыл бұрын

  A question that has been raised is based on the effect seen at the end of the video where a 'clump' of particles moves to the spade drill tip. I had only left that clip in the video for amusement as I considered it a mistake on my part to allow the steel drill to influence the plug's magnetic field, but it does raise a valid question. Could this happen in the Kona gearbox due to the proximity of the steel final drive gear, which is about located about 2 cm away from the OEM plug end? The effect, as best as I understand, is due to the high-gradient distortion of the magnetic field lines surrounding the steel plug where they pass through the sharp tip of the spade drill. Particles are attracted to areas where they can reduce the magnetic field gradient. The large gear inside the Kona gearbox doesn't run nearly as close and doesn't have sharp contours that might attract particles. However, in saying that it's clear that having a high magnetic field strength seems to have low importance as even the very-weak Toyota plug worked very well at sequestering particles.