The cold staet noise can be from carbon build up when oil is being pumped to cam shaft. Always drive car for good 45 minutes to get oil warm before changing That cleans out sludge. Change oil just sitting does not get good slow
@randybonner98705 сағат бұрын
What kind of sealant? RTV?
@miltonpratt6 сағат бұрын
Good morning and thank you for this step by step tutorial I purchased the two days ago and the code came on the seller not responding to my text. So far I change the spark plugs and coils and the code is still on. Watch your video I have a bright idea that Variable valve lift solenoid is my issue thank you
@partsshooter5 сағат бұрын
@@miltonpratt cool... update me on your results
@fabs-shop10 сағат бұрын
Those pins need to be lubricated generously at every pad change. I've had shops skip this step and experienced uneven wear. I do them myself everytime now.
@carlitospacheco973720 сағат бұрын
Hi how you doing I have a 2017 Kia Sorento it consumes a lot of oil you only have less than 70,000 MI I went to the dealership several times and complain about it and they still haven't fixed the problem I change the PCV valve I complain about it should be something worse than that
@Epi514Күн бұрын
Thank you 🙏
@fitnessandbeats2151Күн бұрын
Yo where you live at my Monte Carlo going through the same thing as we speak 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
@sheerwillsurvival2064Күн бұрын
I didn’t know there were red people. I think American Indians were called red men 😂 . I think all people can be positive or negative my kids are a mix of that
@partsshooterКүн бұрын
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 lol
@sheerwillsurvival2064Күн бұрын
Great diagnostic. Don’t be to hard on owners. Most DIY folks don’t understand that besides the crank and cam sensors failures . Even multiple misfires can cause injector shutdown on some vehicles 👊🏻
@giopirmisashvili5514Күн бұрын
Thank you
@randyrojas92912 күн бұрын
Just did the oil change on my odyssey still smells like it’s burning the oil white smoke coming out tailpipe also changed pcv valve and changed the whole Vvt assembly idk what to do anymore
@randyrojas92912 күн бұрын
Any recommendations?
@partsshooter2 күн бұрын
@randyrojas9291 assuming your p2647 is due to oil consumption and when adding oil it does away! Oil usage is trying to be resolved, your main symptom for the oil consumption causing code p2647 is the tail pipe smoking. Which is an indication of valve seal failure! What causes this on honda is valve seals get old from lack of maintenence, oil change interval or just natural wear and tear. When the valve seals leak in the port, it causes oil to accumulate in the port and when you pull off, IT SMOKE! The only fix is to replace valve seals. To isolate the cylinder, pull and inspect the spark plugs, the culprit will have more oil, look fouled and wet black depending on how severe the consumption is. Typically I see cylinder 3 look the worse or the rear bank numbers 1 2 3. Changing the plugs will increase burn efficiency but will not correct your issue! You can change the viscosity and go up in oil weight to slow the smoking down. Like from 5w30 to 10w40, but it'll still smoke. There additives you can add to the oil that will expand the seals over time and "stop" the smoke but these typically don't work! If you decide to try, change the oil with regular 5w30 and add the additive. Drive and cross your fingers! If you have will over 250k, I've had lots of success with 15w40 by rotella used for diesel engines, significantly reducing oil usage and slowing down smoking. But at the end of the day, it's an 80 percent chance you need valve seals!
@randyrojas92912 күн бұрын
@@partsshooter so would these valve seals also cause any slight knocking due to how fast the oil is being consumed
@partsshooter2 күн бұрын
@randyrojas9291 knocking? Well depending on the pace of the knocking. I think of ticking with honda. Knock it pretty extravagant, but the answer is yes, but only due to loss of oil and thus causing irreparable damage! You may have valve adjustment issues! Without diagnosing, I can't say conclusively
@randyrojas92912 күн бұрын
@@partsshooter got it knocking can only be heard when I accelerate and it very faint nothing crazy ok I’m definitely going to take a look at the valve seals and the cylinders to see which one is leaking
@randywills76862 күн бұрын
Did u rotate the cam shaft to get the QR code to the 12:00 position?
@partsshooter2 күн бұрын
@randywills7686 yes. Clockwise
@HunterB7382 күн бұрын
Which caliber is that again?
@chasechevy89332 күн бұрын
I've had them where they still won't free up with a torch. Nice job showing the proper technique 👍
@partsshooterКүн бұрын
I've had them break also the pins were so bad. Your cases must've been rusted bad!
@chasechevy8933Күн бұрын
@@partsshooter .....I've had it happen on 2 year old vehicles with zero rust! No idea what causes it if it's not heat cycles doing it. It's super weird. Thnx 4 the reply 👌
@Ljandy1212 күн бұрын
I have the exact same issue with a 2022 RAM 1500 Longhorn with a diesel. I'm thinking it is design issue. I'm reporting tomorrow to NHTSA. My dealer is fixing the issue...
@randie4502 күн бұрын
Calliper not calibre 👍
@tomlantis80162 күн бұрын
What causes it to seize? Lack of brake maintenance?
@partsshooter2 күн бұрын
Pin not grease properly
@EVsAreWorse4earth2 күн бұрын
the caliber is a great little car
@partsshooter2 күн бұрын
@EVsAreWorse4earth it's a piece of crap 😆 🤣 but luckily, I've kept this car running good! Complex things Whatever the dad couldn't fix
@EVsAreWorse4earthКүн бұрын
@@partsshooter lol i like them, ive never owned one but i have a few customers with them and they seem to be reliable and run nice. im actually about to buy one for like 2 grand as my go to car for when i dont want to drive my nice cars lol
@partsshooterКүн бұрын
@EVsAreWorse4earth make sense to me! Cool thing is we can fix them if something goes wrong. I just can't buy a dodge it would literally have to be given to me. You're a good man!
@jnjpina43102 күн бұрын
The part that you've removed from the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel lines Do you remember what the part is called?
@pearlbatts22282 күн бұрын
I love it. I love it. I went and got modem done for my 2014 jeep patriot at one shop and when I went to another shop for something else they said I needed some motor mounts put on so I paid $500 on one shop and $600 at the other shopcan motor mount break within 6 to 8 months that’s how long I had it first one was 68 months before I got the second one thank you
@joshuagrinstead88543 күн бұрын
Casually leaves out the fact your a body builder!! That’s awesome 😂😂😂
@WHMAGuy3 күн бұрын
I didn’t watch all the way through. I made the same routing mistake
@partsshooter3 күн бұрын
@@WHMAGuy lol... glad I'm not the only one
@michaelward93063 күн бұрын
Wouldve been helpful to see you install the thermostat to housing but thanks for the video
@partsshooter3 күн бұрын
Are you serious? You seen me remove it, you install it in reverse order. Cmon man common sense here
@newfreenayshaun66513 күн бұрын
You can tell what kind of a person a driver is by the curb marks all over the rim😅
@andercitolara31973 күн бұрын
La cadena la puso diferente en la bomba de agua como pueden ver
@KikeEscobar-gj2lp3 күн бұрын
Good Work
@onrdetailingnews8023 күн бұрын
Stay away from honda they love them timing belts they should use chains in all there stuff
@robhill99893 күн бұрын
I’m gonna make sure to use this technique when I have to. Hopefully I won’t have to.
@jayjones12203 күн бұрын
The top part of that engine look pretty damn good doh. Toyota Nation!
@sblazea504 күн бұрын
They don’t know how to diagnose 😂
@markparsons8664 күн бұрын
We all know what type drives a 2018 accord. Let’s not act surprised that there problems you gotta chase down on that car.
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@markparsons866 the same that drive the altimas? 😅
@brt-jn7kg4 күн бұрын
On any Honda or Toyota product if you are replacing any electrical component it is extremely important that you use factory parts OEM will not get it done. They are not built to the specifications that are required by the manufacturer for longevity and proper electrical input and output. Found this out the hard way
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@brt-jn7kg I agree however that's not entirely true. By your logic the import direct coils would've also failed over the cheaper aftermarket because they weren't OEM by your logic. Is it price, manufacturing or both? Where's the common ground with parts? Take into consideration that aftermarket is rare fixes for oem screw ups. Like external inline filters on old automatic honda transmissions. Chevy and their 4l60 issues 😆. Overall you're right....
@MECHc3ify4 күн бұрын
Its almost like there is several test you can run on scan tool that will isolate issues. And steps you can take to to isolate plugs and coils... people are rediculous. Like at least try to to figure it out... stop throwing parts at it..
@JacobTemple_CEКүн бұрын
Most can't afford the $6600 scan tool much less OEM parts. Diagnostic dice are on sale though
@MECHc3ifyКүн бұрын
Autel makes affordable fully & partially bidirectional scan tools. Subscription isnt so cheap tho, but you definitely don't need to drop more than $600 to do some pretty in-depth diagnostics.
@bvrgrn10384 күн бұрын
Maybe it’s the resistance of the non OEM coils being just different enough (for various reasons), it causes the computer to see too much voltage drop or increase for that matter. Quality of the metals used or different conductor material or less windings?
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@bvrgrn1038 if I get time I'll hook them up to the oscilloscope and check current ramp. But I can't make any promise due to work load. But I'll see if I can keep them for future video
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@bvrgrn1038 typically I see aftermarket coil have unnatural current ramp limiter, like they hit a ceiling in effort to meet factory spec. Vs natural flow. So this maybe the cause why under load these fail but naturally driving they're fine
@bjgaspar4 күн бұрын
Showing my age... Theres no way I'm going 7k before changing my oil. IDGAF what the manufacturer suggests. 3/6 months, 3k mi.
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@bjgaspar I understand you... and yes that's old school logic keeping oil change ever 3k. Typical oil changes I do are 5-6.5k miles. I have less than 5 people cars I do who change their oil ever 3k. Oils are so much better now than they were 10 years ago. I have lady car who do the 20k mile mobile 1. I've done 4 oil services on her car and believe me, it look very good inside. I'll do a video when it come in for service in the future for valve covers or something
@mr.selfdestruct16774 күн бұрын
2004 sienna xlt , i was about to do this job. I have the part new and boom what was my surprise? Theres nothing there. Not even the connector. Or the swivel arm. Nothing. Im getting hot air from the drivers side while the passengers blow cold air.
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@mr.selfdestruct1677 you have dual climate control or single?
@mr.selfdestruct16774 күн бұрын
@partsshooter I don't think so. I only have one knob for Temperature.
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@mr.selfdestruct1677 if you have one button you gonna have single climate control. Check your ac refrigerant level and top off if need be
@mr.selfdestruct16774 күн бұрын
@partsshooter so the one that's bad would be the one on the passengers side right? Even if it does move when I change the temperature from hot to cold and vice versa ?
@partsshooter4 күн бұрын
@mr.selfdestruct1677 hopefully I'm reading you correctly, and your complaint is, one side is cold and one side is hot? I'm interpreting that you're looking for uniformity of cold on both sides? So we're looking for blend door actuation and not the modes in changing the vent, correct?
@paprgl5 күн бұрын
Thanks.
@user-ns7tm8vt7t5 күн бұрын
Just replace the tensioner and done
@partsshooter5 күн бұрын
@@user-ns7tm8vt7t absolutely not... this is a customer car, I'm not half assing people cars and my reputation
@theoriginalerk5 күн бұрын
@partsshooter imagine that, a bot account telling a mechanic how to half ass a repair 😂😂😂
@partsshooter5 күн бұрын
@theoriginalerk I know right... seem more like a throwaway account. Bots are optimistic 😆
@turboimport954 күн бұрын
@@partsshooter I would not say its completely half assed. I installed a brand new timing chain set in a corolla like this for timing codes, and it rattled on startup every time, using aftermarket parts, the funny thing is the oem tensor and chain did not rattle at all.. so it could be a weak tensioner leaking down cause the chain to be a little loose.
@partsshooterКүн бұрын
@user-ns7tm8vt7t hey... guess what... you were right! After pulling down to replace everything, timing chain tensioner was stuck. Thought I'd let you know. Not sure if you're a bot or not. But good guess. She still getting all the goodies though
@faisalrehman17175 күн бұрын
Can someone tell me, if vtec solenoid is on all the time, then whats the consequence. Is it good bad. Thanks
@partsshooter5 күн бұрын
The video provided this answer you're seeking in regards to solenoid state being naturally off or no. There's no power while car is idled. Video didn't answer your second half. The answer is, if your solenoid is stuck on, engine will stall or run as if there's a bad vacuum leak if it manages to run
@WHMAGuy5 күн бұрын
As a side note I will be taking the cowling off now when I do spark plugs. It made removing the intake ridiculously easy.
@kayjay40605 күн бұрын
What grease did you use on those slider pins? If you mix the wrong greases they create a solid, and they will not slide.
@electtrickity15465 күн бұрын
This was awesome, the only thing that concerned me was the threads on the nut. The heat and the back and forth motion might break the nut loose. So i used a 1/4" clevis pin that locks in with a cotter pin and 5 washers . A washer on each side of the cable head with some grease plus 3 washers on the cotter pin side used as spacers for a tight fit. Thanks for the inspiration you are a meshanic.
@michaelsheehan28936 күн бұрын
Thank you for your great video! Two primary wires were broken. All fixed now and working fine 👍
@partsshooter6 күн бұрын
@michaelsheehan2893 good deal. Thanks
@nathanielsmith18926 күн бұрын
Do you have to put a load on it before tightening or are the top threads longer ?
@partsshooter6 күн бұрын
@nathanielsmith1892 I didn't have to. Because I use the old factory 14mm bolt with the new shocks. The old bolts don't have the Teflon lock integrated with the nut, so it made it easy to install. The 5mm hex is there to hold the shaft if it spin on you while tightening the nut.
@WHMAGuy6 күн бұрын
So I’m gonna need to recharge the ac on this one? Good thing I watched first I gotta go buy some 134
@Mamma19526 күн бұрын
Hello and thank you for making this video. My problem is I bought a car from a Spanish person with an English barrier. The odometer stopped working. I sent it in for repair got it back and then set up the PA TS system. I’ve beenfucking with this car. My problem is I went to ford today to talk to them and if you thought you got handled by those guys you should see what they told me. I’m like you I got a high barometer and I’m gonna try to fix the shit. Right now my car stuck and I don’t have a $1300 scan tool. What would be your best advice I also only got one key. I’m in a world of hurt. I guess my question is what kind of key do I need to buy so I can have two of them I’ve got one in the car we’re starting with a one key that you provided when I bought it. But now the car just turns over and won’t start and I ain’t got no friends to help me out. Any help would be really appreciated. It’s really bad. People won’t help other people and a super Chewase shin like this we’re just needs to be reprogrammed. I know nothings free and I’m like you were I can pay a couple hundred for told me Ford dealership told me it was gonna be $409 and it’s gonna go up from there and they look like two kids that were about 20 years old. I am thinking about sending the computer off for $149 to have the PATS system disabled. Do you think a locksmith would be able to help me out. Again any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’m sorry you got approved through that. I’m going through it right now though so there’s people out there that are in the shit to. Keep up the good work you’re actually helping people.
@partsshooter5 күн бұрын
So the car crank and won't start from what I'm gathering. Has the car ever ran since purchased? What's the back story on it running, if it ever did and the point when it stopped running?
@mcciaccio6 күн бұрын
I had a Toyota that sounded like that.. it made it another 80k
@partsshooter6 күн бұрын
@mcciaccio good deal... once I repair this issue hopefully we get 80k
@grindmusickent6 күн бұрын
Junk it
@partsshooter6 күн бұрын
You can't give up that easy...
@raulgcamacho6 күн бұрын
Just did the same repair on a 2007 Ridgeline. Thanks for the procedure overview.
Пікірлер
Great work. Thanks for the video…very helpful 👍
The cold staet noise can be from carbon build up when oil is being pumped to cam shaft. Always drive car for good 45 minutes to get oil warm before changing That cleans out sludge. Change oil just sitting does not get good slow
What kind of sealant? RTV?
Good morning and thank you for this step by step tutorial I purchased the two days ago and the code came on the seller not responding to my text. So far I change the spark plugs and coils and the code is still on. Watch your video I have a bright idea that Variable valve lift solenoid is my issue thank you
@@miltonpratt cool... update me on your results
Those pins need to be lubricated generously at every pad change. I've had shops skip this step and experienced uneven wear. I do them myself everytime now.
Hi how you doing I have a 2017 Kia Sorento it consumes a lot of oil you only have less than 70,000 MI I went to the dealership several times and complain about it and they still haven't fixed the problem I change the PCV valve I complain about it should be something worse than that
Thank you 🙏
Yo where you live at my Monte Carlo going through the same thing as we speak 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
I didn’t know there were red people. I think American Indians were called red men 😂 . I think all people can be positive or negative my kids are a mix of that
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 lol
Great diagnostic. Don’t be to hard on owners. Most DIY folks don’t understand that besides the crank and cam sensors failures . Even multiple misfires can cause injector shutdown on some vehicles 👊🏻
Thank you
Just did the oil change on my odyssey still smells like it’s burning the oil white smoke coming out tailpipe also changed pcv valve and changed the whole Vvt assembly idk what to do anymore
Any recommendations?
@randyrojas9291 assuming your p2647 is due to oil consumption and when adding oil it does away! Oil usage is trying to be resolved, your main symptom for the oil consumption causing code p2647 is the tail pipe smoking. Which is an indication of valve seal failure! What causes this on honda is valve seals get old from lack of maintenence, oil change interval or just natural wear and tear. When the valve seals leak in the port, it causes oil to accumulate in the port and when you pull off, IT SMOKE! The only fix is to replace valve seals. To isolate the cylinder, pull and inspect the spark plugs, the culprit will have more oil, look fouled and wet black depending on how severe the consumption is. Typically I see cylinder 3 look the worse or the rear bank numbers 1 2 3. Changing the plugs will increase burn efficiency but will not correct your issue! You can change the viscosity and go up in oil weight to slow the smoking down. Like from 5w30 to 10w40, but it'll still smoke. There additives you can add to the oil that will expand the seals over time and "stop" the smoke but these typically don't work! If you decide to try, change the oil with regular 5w30 and add the additive. Drive and cross your fingers! If you have will over 250k, I've had lots of success with 15w40 by rotella used for diesel engines, significantly reducing oil usage and slowing down smoking. But at the end of the day, it's an 80 percent chance you need valve seals!
@@partsshooter so would these valve seals also cause any slight knocking due to how fast the oil is being consumed
@randyrojas9291 knocking? Well depending on the pace of the knocking. I think of ticking with honda. Knock it pretty extravagant, but the answer is yes, but only due to loss of oil and thus causing irreparable damage! You may have valve adjustment issues! Without diagnosing, I can't say conclusively
@@partsshooter got it knocking can only be heard when I accelerate and it very faint nothing crazy ok I’m definitely going to take a look at the valve seals and the cylinders to see which one is leaking
Did u rotate the cam shaft to get the QR code to the 12:00 position?
@randywills7686 yes. Clockwise
Which caliber is that again?
I've had them where they still won't free up with a torch. Nice job showing the proper technique 👍
I've had them break also the pins were so bad. Your cases must've been rusted bad!
@@partsshooter .....I've had it happen on 2 year old vehicles with zero rust! No idea what causes it if it's not heat cycles doing it. It's super weird. Thnx 4 the reply 👌
I have the exact same issue with a 2022 RAM 1500 Longhorn with a diesel. I'm thinking it is design issue. I'm reporting tomorrow to NHTSA. My dealer is fixing the issue...
Calliper not calibre 👍
What causes it to seize? Lack of brake maintenance?
Pin not grease properly
the caliber is a great little car
@EVsAreWorse4earth it's a piece of crap 😆 🤣 but luckily, I've kept this car running good! Complex things Whatever the dad couldn't fix
@@partsshooter lol i like them, ive never owned one but i have a few customers with them and they seem to be reliable and run nice. im actually about to buy one for like 2 grand as my go to car for when i dont want to drive my nice cars lol
@EVsAreWorse4earth make sense to me! Cool thing is we can fix them if something goes wrong. I just can't buy a dodge it would literally have to be given to me. You're a good man!
The part that you've removed from the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel lines Do you remember what the part is called?
I love it. I love it. I went and got modem done for my 2014 jeep patriot at one shop and when I went to another shop for something else they said I needed some motor mounts put on so I paid $500 on one shop and $600 at the other shopcan motor mount break within 6 to 8 months that’s how long I had it first one was 68 months before I got the second one thank you
Casually leaves out the fact your a body builder!! That’s awesome 😂😂😂
I didn’t watch all the way through. I made the same routing mistake
@@WHMAGuy lol... glad I'm not the only one
Wouldve been helpful to see you install the thermostat to housing but thanks for the video
Are you serious? You seen me remove it, you install it in reverse order. Cmon man common sense here
You can tell what kind of a person a driver is by the curb marks all over the rim😅
La cadena la puso diferente en la bomba de agua como pueden ver
Good Work
Stay away from honda they love them timing belts they should use chains in all there stuff
I’m gonna make sure to use this technique when I have to. Hopefully I won’t have to.
The top part of that engine look pretty damn good doh. Toyota Nation!
They don’t know how to diagnose 😂
We all know what type drives a 2018 accord. Let’s not act surprised that there problems you gotta chase down on that car.
@markparsons866 the same that drive the altimas? 😅
On any Honda or Toyota product if you are replacing any electrical component it is extremely important that you use factory parts OEM will not get it done. They are not built to the specifications that are required by the manufacturer for longevity and proper electrical input and output. Found this out the hard way
@brt-jn7kg I agree however that's not entirely true. By your logic the import direct coils would've also failed over the cheaper aftermarket because they weren't OEM by your logic. Is it price, manufacturing or both? Where's the common ground with parts? Take into consideration that aftermarket is rare fixes for oem screw ups. Like external inline filters on old automatic honda transmissions. Chevy and their 4l60 issues 😆. Overall you're right....
Its almost like there is several test you can run on scan tool that will isolate issues. And steps you can take to to isolate plugs and coils... people are rediculous. Like at least try to to figure it out... stop throwing parts at it..
Most can't afford the $6600 scan tool much less OEM parts. Diagnostic dice are on sale though
Autel makes affordable fully & partially bidirectional scan tools. Subscription isnt so cheap tho, but you definitely don't need to drop more than $600 to do some pretty in-depth diagnostics.
Maybe it’s the resistance of the non OEM coils being just different enough (for various reasons), it causes the computer to see too much voltage drop or increase for that matter. Quality of the metals used or different conductor material or less windings?
@bvrgrn1038 if I get time I'll hook them up to the oscilloscope and check current ramp. But I can't make any promise due to work load. But I'll see if I can keep them for future video
@bvrgrn1038 typically I see aftermarket coil have unnatural current ramp limiter, like they hit a ceiling in effort to meet factory spec. Vs natural flow. So this maybe the cause why under load these fail but naturally driving they're fine
Showing my age... Theres no way I'm going 7k before changing my oil. IDGAF what the manufacturer suggests. 3/6 months, 3k mi.
@bjgaspar I understand you... and yes that's old school logic keeping oil change ever 3k. Typical oil changes I do are 5-6.5k miles. I have less than 5 people cars I do who change their oil ever 3k. Oils are so much better now than they were 10 years ago. I have lady car who do the 20k mile mobile 1. I've done 4 oil services on her car and believe me, it look very good inside. I'll do a video when it come in for service in the future for valve covers or something
2004 sienna xlt , i was about to do this job. I have the part new and boom what was my surprise? Theres nothing there. Not even the connector. Or the swivel arm. Nothing. Im getting hot air from the drivers side while the passengers blow cold air.
@mr.selfdestruct1677 you have dual climate control or single?
@partsshooter I don't think so. I only have one knob for Temperature.
@mr.selfdestruct1677 if you have one button you gonna have single climate control. Check your ac refrigerant level and top off if need be
@partsshooter so the one that's bad would be the one on the passengers side right? Even if it does move when I change the temperature from hot to cold and vice versa ?
@mr.selfdestruct1677 hopefully I'm reading you correctly, and your complaint is, one side is cold and one side is hot? I'm interpreting that you're looking for uniformity of cold on both sides? So we're looking for blend door actuation and not the modes in changing the vent, correct?
Thanks.
Just replace the tensioner and done
@@user-ns7tm8vt7t absolutely not... this is a customer car, I'm not half assing people cars and my reputation
@partsshooter imagine that, a bot account telling a mechanic how to half ass a repair 😂😂😂
@theoriginalerk I know right... seem more like a throwaway account. Bots are optimistic 😆
@@partsshooter I would not say its completely half assed. I installed a brand new timing chain set in a corolla like this for timing codes, and it rattled on startup every time, using aftermarket parts, the funny thing is the oem tensor and chain did not rattle at all.. so it could be a weak tensioner leaking down cause the chain to be a little loose.
@user-ns7tm8vt7t hey... guess what... you were right! After pulling down to replace everything, timing chain tensioner was stuck. Thought I'd let you know. Not sure if you're a bot or not. But good guess. She still getting all the goodies though
Can someone tell me, if vtec solenoid is on all the time, then whats the consequence. Is it good bad. Thanks
The video provided this answer you're seeking in regards to solenoid state being naturally off or no. There's no power while car is idled. Video didn't answer your second half. The answer is, if your solenoid is stuck on, engine will stall or run as if there's a bad vacuum leak if it manages to run
As a side note I will be taking the cowling off now when I do spark plugs. It made removing the intake ridiculously easy.
What grease did you use on those slider pins? If you mix the wrong greases they create a solid, and they will not slide.
This was awesome, the only thing that concerned me was the threads on the nut. The heat and the back and forth motion might break the nut loose. So i used a 1/4" clevis pin that locks in with a cotter pin and 5 washers . A washer on each side of the cable head with some grease plus 3 washers on the cotter pin side used as spacers for a tight fit. Thanks for the inspiration you are a meshanic.
Thank you for your great video! Two primary wires were broken. All fixed now and working fine 👍
@michaelsheehan2893 good deal. Thanks
Do you have to put a load on it before tightening or are the top threads longer ?
@nathanielsmith1892 I didn't have to. Because I use the old factory 14mm bolt with the new shocks. The old bolts don't have the Teflon lock integrated with the nut, so it made it easy to install. The 5mm hex is there to hold the shaft if it spin on you while tightening the nut.
So I’m gonna need to recharge the ac on this one? Good thing I watched first I gotta go buy some 134
Hello and thank you for making this video. My problem is I bought a car from a Spanish person with an English barrier. The odometer stopped working. I sent it in for repair got it back and then set up the PA TS system. I’ve beenfucking with this car. My problem is I went to ford today to talk to them and if you thought you got handled by those guys you should see what they told me. I’m like you I got a high barometer and I’m gonna try to fix the shit. Right now my car stuck and I don’t have a $1300 scan tool. What would be your best advice I also only got one key. I’m in a world of hurt. I guess my question is what kind of key do I need to buy so I can have two of them I’ve got one in the car we’re starting with a one key that you provided when I bought it. But now the car just turns over and won’t start and I ain’t got no friends to help me out. Any help would be really appreciated. It’s really bad. People won’t help other people and a super Chewase shin like this we’re just needs to be reprogrammed. I know nothings free and I’m like you were I can pay a couple hundred for told me Ford dealership told me it was gonna be $409 and it’s gonna go up from there and they look like two kids that were about 20 years old. I am thinking about sending the computer off for $149 to have the PATS system disabled. Do you think a locksmith would be able to help me out. Again any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’m sorry you got approved through that. I’m going through it right now though so there’s people out there that are in the shit to. Keep up the good work you’re actually helping people.
So the car crank and won't start from what I'm gathering. Has the car ever ran since purchased? What's the back story on it running, if it ever did and the point when it stopped running?
I had a Toyota that sounded like that.. it made it another 80k
@mcciaccio good deal... once I repair this issue hopefully we get 80k
Junk it
You can't give up that easy...
Just did the same repair on a 2007 Ridgeline. Thanks for the procedure overview.