Пікірлер

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  @PeterAltuzzi15 сағат бұрын

  I understand how the circuit changes the output state. However I can't wrap my head around why Q2 is in the on state, when the voltage source is turned on. So why is Q1 defaulted to off and Q2 defaulted to on state?

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  @david.vieiraocurioso49172 күн бұрын

  Very good. Thanks!

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  @MD.ADE9973 күн бұрын

  what is this circuit used for ?

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  @catalinalb172220 күн бұрын

  Is this a clone of Owon? Or?

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  @tedbastwock381024 күн бұрын

  Frankly, I dont think I would have shared this with the world for free. Its not like its world changing or anything, but it did take a lot of thought and effort. And on top of that, it is useful. Think of all the money other people will make using this in their broader designs with no credit whatsoever to Steve. I hope you all are very grateful for someone sharing actual innovation rather than regurgitated and ubiquitous starter nonsense over and over, e.g. arduino jump how high bro.

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  @tedbastwock381024 күн бұрын

  This .... this is amazing. Not just demonstration of a "classic" circuit (which is great, too), but sharing something useful that he thought up on his own. Wow. This is Art. Thank you, please make more videos 🙏

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  @erikvincent584625 күн бұрын

  How is the button debouncing on this?

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  @tgirard12325 күн бұрын

  Does the switch stay in the off state when you apply power the first time? I'm assuming yes?

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  @ivololАй бұрын

  Can you get any better performances using a mosfet?

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  @synth1002Ай бұрын

  Where to put LEDs here?

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  @merveozdas1193Ай бұрын

  Why does the collector of first transistor is low, even though its base is high?

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  @marcisberzinsАй бұрын

  That's the very point of a transistor...

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  @axelg79Ай бұрын

  so in this case where would we put the LEDs? After R1 and R4?

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  @castours8290Ай бұрын

  Are there any circuitboards available on Aliexpress or Amazon that have this function?

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  @kingshahzad78Ай бұрын

  The Best Explanation Dear❤

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  @wilmorekunda97392 ай бұрын

  Can this circuit work with 100microfarad capacitors and 22k resistors

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  @RenderdFat3 ай бұрын

  i would love to know how you pic your resistors in your curcuit designing ?

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  @ilyass_bouarasse3 ай бұрын

  Hey can I use 1uf

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  @CoderDad3 ай бұрын

  Guys like this is why I luv KZread 😁

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  @oreoluwabukunmi84303 ай бұрын

  hello. By display driver you mean a shift register right?

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  @cub85583 ай бұрын

  Can I use 470nf ceramic capacitor instead of electrolytic?

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  @marcisberzinsАй бұрын

  Sure

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  @luizfelipecampos69503 ай бұрын

  I`ve been looking for a circuit with that purpose for a couple months. And this approach is so simple. I used BC547 (plan on using BC847 on PCB) for the transistors with a 12V power supply I designed and it works perfectly! Thank you very much! 🇧🇷🇧🇷

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  @bassamskafi13844 ай бұрын

  It's very good of this circuit

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  @Usnveteranstacker4 ай бұрын

  Dude you really need to make more videos, your teaching style is definitely for me

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  @keithking19854 ай бұрын

  That's a really cool circuit.. 👍🇮🇪

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  @keithking19854 ай бұрын

  Just found your channel. And subscribed. Was looking up latch circuits online and it brought me here. Have a 300Watt power supply myself. A 60v 5A one. Got it just incase my E-bike charger ever bit the dust and so I don't have to put together a 56v 2A supply. But I'm going to get another supply, and something like this is what I'm looking for.. real nice PSU.. How much is it??👍🇮🇪😊

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  @keithking19854 ай бұрын

  I'm also going to subscribe. Like the stuff you have on this channel 😊🇮🇪👍

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  @keithking19854 ай бұрын

  Just came here for an online page while looking at latch circuits.. like this one for it's simplicity and low number of components. 👍🇮🇪😊

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  @mendebil4 ай бұрын

  Works with BC337 without modifications

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  @S_e_r_g_ei4 ай бұрын

  I'm watching from Russia. Well done! Everything is clear, simple and understandable! And most importantly - a very useful device! On high-quality, cheap and common parts! Respect! The author, but would give an idea about a bistable relay (Pulse relay) at 220V. Similar relays are sold by the Chinese for installation on a DIN rail. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to connect it according to the type of "pass-through switch" from several places (parallel power buttons), but the Chinese sculpt there, mechanical(!) Relay! And recently they opened such a relay made in a case with some kind of semicircular diamond and saw that there was such a microcircuit HCF4013BE and a minimum of strapping, apparently a direct-current chip from 220 V., and a BT136-600E triac is already in the form of a key (if necessary, I can post a photo of that relay). So I would like to come up with something on this very chip or on a domestic and high-quality K1182PM1 or at worst TDA1085 or NE555 (for example). I called it that offhand, maybe there's even something simpler and much better! (I don't really know the element base). And if it is on K1182PM1, it is powered by a 220 V mains, and it does not need any reduction. (By the way, the Chinese have long had analogues of this chip). And so that the key would serve, just like in the video, a simple and powerful triac (BT136-600; BTA41-600), or even preferably their parallel row, if there is a need for a large current!! Well, if you build on TDA1085 or NE555, then to have a minimum of details, so as only to power the master logic through a quenching conder, a bridge and a zener diode of some kind (zenner), but this is only for TDA1085 or NE555. But if you do, then only without controlling any separate power supply (from a separate DC unit). Something simple with a minimum of strapping (like the Chinese, only to be much better!!) and the maximum benefit. But just like that, in an adult way, so that like on a factory relay (which is on a din rail) - the principle of "one button" once pressed-turned on, the second time pressed-turned off. And such a cycle is in a circle, endlessly. This is going to be a breakthrough! No one has done this before and thousands of people will be grateful! they will take it and do it! Because the thing in the household is very necessary and the request for it is large. Sincerely from Russia! /// Смотрю из России. Молодец! Всё понятно, просто и доходчиво! А главное - очень полезное устройство! На качественных, дешёвых и распространённых деталях! Респект! Автор, а вот выдал бы идею, по поводу бистабильного реле (Импульсное реле) на 220В. Подобные, реле продают китайцы для установки на DIN-рейку. В инете много инфы, как подключать её по типу "проходного выключателя" с нескольких мест (параллельные кнопки включения), но лепят китайцы туда, механическое(!) реле! И вот недавно открыли такую релюшку, сделанную в корпусе каким-то полукруглым ромбиком и увидели, что там стоит вот такая микруха HCF4013BE и минимум обвязки, видимо прямоточная микросхема от 220 В., и в виде ключа уже стоит симистор BT136-600E (если нужно, могу выложить фото той релюшки). Так вот и придумать бы, что-нить на вот этой самой микросхеме или на отечественной и качественной К1182ПМ1 или на худой конец TDA1085 иль NE555 (к примеру). Это я назвал, так навскидку, может даже есть что-нить проще и в разы лучше! (я не особо знаю элементную базу). А если на К1182ПМ1, так она и питается от сети 220 В, и никакое понижение ей не нужно. (У китайцев кстати, давно есть аналоги этой микросхемы). И чтоб ключом служил бы, так-же как и в ролике простой и мощной симистор (BT136-600; BTA41-600), иль даже желательно их параллельный ряд, при нужде в большом токе!! Ну а если строить на TDA1085 иль NE555 , то чтоб минимум деталей, чтоб только запитать задающую логику через гасящий кондёр, мостик и стабилитрон какой-нить (зеннер), но это только для TDA1085 иль NE555. Но если и делать, то чтоб только без управления всяким там отдельным питанием (от отдельного блока DC). Что-то простое с минимум обвязки (как у китайцев, только чтоб намного качественней!!) и максимум пользы. Но только прям вот по-взрослому, чтоб как на заводском реле (которое на дин-рейке) - принцип "одной кнопки" раз нажал-ключил, второй раз нажал-выключил. И такой цикл по кругу, бесконечно. Вот это будет прорыв! Такое ещё никто не делал и тысячи людей будут благодарны! возьмут и сделают! Потому как вещь в хозяйстве очень нужная и запрос на неё большой. С уважением из России!

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  @gkdresden4 ай бұрын

  I like to use the LM334 as an adjustable current source. The circuit consists of only 2 devices, The LM334 and a resistor to set the current.

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  @gkdresden4 ай бұрын

  Where is the frequency deviation (1 kHz at 50% and 1.8 kHz at 15% or 85%) at the lowest and highest duty cycle coming from? Does it result from the nonlinear charging behavior across resistors or is it an effect caused by avalanche breakdown of the base-emitter diodes due too much negative voltage? Maybe also a combination of both effects.

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  @ryleebrownfox5 ай бұрын

  does the circuit consume zero current while in off state?

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  @jim99304 ай бұрын

  Use cmos invertor gates for the lowest quiescent current. 10meg resistors and an HC14 will last years with two AAA cells.

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  @jmi59695 ай бұрын

  0:45 - "Q2 in cutoff" - why? R3 provides enough base current to saturate it, Q1 is off so it cannot shunt the base of Q2.

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  @S_e_r_g_ei5 ай бұрын

  I'm watching from Russia. Well done! Simple and clear! The author, is it possible to make a similar circuit for 220 V? To get a pulse relay with one-button control? And instead of a mechanical relay, you can use a triac. After all, as a key, a triac is much more reliable than a mechanical relay! And if you use a MOSFET or a microchip, then power can be supplied through a low-capacity quenching capacitor, a bridge, a smoothing capacitor and a Zener diode at the desired voltage. And yet, there should always be a scheme! Preferably laid out separately or in the video itself, at least for 5-6 seconds. Then it will be considered a full-time job, and this is already professional and high-quality! And then, you will want to watch something else on Your channel again! Sincerely from Russia! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Смотрю из России. Хорошо сделано! Просто и понятно! Автор, а можно сделать подобную схему на 220 В? Чтобы получилось импульсное реле с управлением от одной кнопки? И вместо механического реле можно использовать симистор. Ведь как ключ, симистор намного надёжнее, чем механическое реле! И если использовать МОСФЕТ или микросхему, то питание можно сделать через гасящий конденсатор малой ёмкости, моста, сглаживающего конденсатора и диода Зенера на нужное напряжение. И ещё, всегда должна быть схема! Желательно отдельно выложенная или в самом ролике, хотя бы на 5-6 секунд. Тогда это будет считаться полной работой, а это уже профессионально и качественно! И тогда, захочется снова и ещё что-то смотреть на Вашем канале! С уважением из России!

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  @healer10000406 ай бұрын

  How much does it draw current in an idle state?

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  @clipPRmusic6 ай бұрын

  I’m new to this, and it might sound dumb, but where exactly is the output?

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  @blackbox3306 ай бұрын

  Sir, Great video

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  @ChandrashekarCN7 ай бұрын

  💖💖💖💖

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  @t1d1008 ай бұрын

  Wow, super clean square wave output... Kudos.

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  @uni-byte8 ай бұрын

  You should be able to get a fairly nice square wave out of a circuit like this. See this example using the same transistor: and kzread.info/dash/bejne/jHqgs8yIk8aoocY.html I think you might just be driving the base too hard.

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  @white-rider8 ай бұрын

  The issue with this design becomes apparent when you press and hold the button for a couple of seconds. Also you don't need additional transistor to default to off state.

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  @ItsGoolMCz8 ай бұрын

  Can you make this but instead of driving led to driving 5v relay, what I have to change?

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  @ivolol9 ай бұрын

  Interesting video. Would be cool to see the absolute measured rise/fall times the scope can give for each. Would also be interesting to compare your 'discrete' solution, to putting it through a 74 series schmitt buffer or double schmitt inverter, as well as a comparator (lm393) opamp solution setup correctly. See what pros and cons arise. Would also be cool to see inserting a pot to tune a 'sweet spot' resistance helps improve the rise time any, or doesn't make much material difference.

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  @Enigma7589 ай бұрын

  Nice video, thanks. One question though, I'm not sure why R1 and are R2 are on the emitter side. Would there be any reason not to have them on the collector side?

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  @BBCircuitsbySteveMorrison9 ай бұрын

  Nice catch. Thank you. I'm actually not sure why I put them on the emitter side other than trying to rush the circuit together. As it is, the current through Q3 and Q4 is so low, that the voltage drop across R1 and R2 is low enough as not to raise the required base saturating voltage above 5v w/r to ground. However, a high enough current through the main drivers could ultimately require Q3 and Q4 to need too high of a base voltage to do their job. So It makes much better sense to put them on the collector side so as to guarantee a base voltage below that which a microcontroller can supply. I added a video caption to reflect that correction, as well as updated the schematic in the article referenced in the video description.

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  @kamleshchavan74519 ай бұрын

  Sir any small simple Remote Control project controlling dc motor using bread board, transmitter circuit on one bread board and receiver circuit on another . But project should be with out any transmitter and receiver module's e.g. 433 mhz transmitter and receiver module's. There should not be any module on transmitter or receiver side

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  @Electronzap11 ай бұрын

  Nice circuit.

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  @harrylister804 Жыл бұрын

  I built this but I only had 2N2222 transistors and used 22k instead of 27k because that's all I had. When I give it 5V, the power supply quits. I went to an adjustable power supply and gave it 12V 3A and the voltage dropped to about 0.6V @ 2.9A. I have the LED after the first 1k resistor and it doesnt light up. I've checked for shorts and opens with that feature on a DVM and cant find anything wired wrong. Transistors emitters all go to ground. Are the transistor types that important? Any clues? Still, nice video.

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  @harrylister804 Жыл бұрын

  I got it to work. Started fresh, soldered a new board. I changed the 27k resistors to 1k and now I get a square wave and I can change pulse width with the potentiometer. I also changed the capacitors to a 10Uf electrolytic and I only input 5V into the astable side of it. I get about 30-70 to 70-30 range on the duty cycle. The square wave is not as nice as yours(has a slight rounded rising edge) but with my components available, that's probably as good as I can get it.

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  @BBCircuitsbySteveMorrison Жыл бұрын

  @@harrylister804 Good deal. Yes. the 2222 & 3904 differ mainly by collector current. Glad you got it working. If you add an additional amplification stage you can really clean it up as illustrated in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/nGd40tiyh7HgYbg.html

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  @dylanm.3692 Жыл бұрын

  Do you have any idea how long I've been looking for a latching circuit like this? Thank you.

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  @BBCircuitsbySteveMorrison Жыл бұрын

  Glad you like it. A little history behind it. I spent the last part of the senior year in high school and the first year of college trying to figure this thing out. Finally got it working and it was a hit in the electronics lab in college. The 5 V / USB version of this which is another video on my channel is about three to four iterations from that college circuit..

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  @sorryimajerk735 Жыл бұрын

  HEY PAL, IM NOT SURE OF THE VALUE OF THE CAPACITOR, IS IT NOT 4.7 UF? LOOKS LIKE IT BY THE SIZE ETC

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  @rul1175 Жыл бұрын

  Would you recommend this power supply over a Rigol?? The price is pretty close.