I've started this channel to document in detail motorcycle and bicycle repair procedures.
My bike shop in Bellingham WA (Robert's Bicycle Repair) has online scheduling - link listed below
Disclaimer:
I have done my best to provide accurate information, but as with everything on KZread and in life, do your own due diligence. (due diligence - an investigation or review performed to confirm facts or details of a matter under consideration). I accept no responsibility for errors or omissions. Perform service at your own risk and liability. Check the service manual for your own particular year and model.
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when aligning the cams,surely there must be a easier way. how do they do it in the factory at initial assembly? great vids by the way.
Thanks...maybe at the factory the engine is out of the frame....you could have a jig that holds the cams in the correct postion...then you could just lay the chain where it goes with no fuss...at 14:14 into the video, I explain the mystery of the difficulty...I just rewatched this video which I made over a year ago...the only thing that I would do differently would be to make two rotation tools instead of one...I didn't damage the case by prying with a small force on the intake cam (the part with the brass shim) but would rather have a tool to turn it the slight amount needed.
Hi there, my MT07 have sound tick tick tick, mechanic told that sound from tensioner timing chain or timing chain it self, can you advise me...
Are you planning on doing the repair yourself or hiring somebody?
the bolt on the rad cap broke off as I was trying to loosen it, do you think it's a big deal if I ride without it until I get the new part?
Can't say for sure, but if I remember right it seemed like a safety feature to keep the cap from accidentally loosening... So if the cap seems to be on there fairly snug and you have to turn it hard to get off you're probably okay
It looks to me like the cam chain sprokes are marked E and I like the cam caps dose this stamd for exaust amd intake?
the foil trick was legit! You also forgot to leave a zip tie on the brake lever over night.
Thanks... I did put a zip tie on the lever overnight... It just didn't make it into the video
You forgot to tap the lines.
Good point...that helps sometimes.... Do you think it's necessary considering the amount of fluid I pumped through the lines? What is the theory of tapping the lines? Is it to get little bubbles off the sides that are sticking to the liner?
How similar would you say this process is to the gen 3 mt09 compared to gen 1?
Are you talking about the whole process of checking and adjusting valves?
@@meticulousmechanic Yes. Also do you have a link to the tool you use to turn the crank shaft?
I haven't worked on a gen 3 but I imagine the process would be similar... The first thing I did when I bought my bike was to buy the factory service manual.... That way you get all the exploded views, all the specifics on torque values, and the procedures. I bought the tool that I used to turn the crank at harbor freight... It's basically a breaker bar but the socket holder slides back and forth... Couldn't find the exact link. @@GabriellaMetelits
Γειά σου φίλε πως λέγεται το εργαλειο αυτό που έχεις
Carbtune pro
Where are u located?Wanna do mine too?😢
hey man I'm curious if you experienced something similar to me with the cam chain. I got everything bolted down and in timing according to the btdc125 triangle/intake camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line/exhaust camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line, and all my pictures. My concern is my cam chain was tensioned correctly with my APE manual CCT before turning the generator rotor to verify timing marks come back, and when I did see my timing marks in line after rotating engine (which was great to see) my cam chain now has considerable slack in the same spot where it was tight before on the CCT side of the chain. And the other side, away from the CCT becomes tight... one side of the chain is tight in some positions of the generator rotor, and the other side is tight in other positions... I was thinking this may be the way it was operating before I did this service... since I'm doing the first valve adjustment at 35,000 miles... maybe the cam chain has stretch and that causes this? I have the cam chain casing off making sure there was no weird kinks or slack when I got my camshafts rotated to get the chain on the right teeth. what do you think? any thoughts are appreciated.
Let me see if I understand the situation.... You took off the cam chain cover and analyzed the tension on the cam chain before you did anything by spinning the crank.... Then you removed the camshafts and put everything back together and now the chain tension is different?
@@meticulousmechanic i mean to reference the cam chain tension i inspected after the adjustment, and after I installed the cam chain tensioner. When you installed your cam chain tensioner after the adjustment and got it set to a good tension, you rotated the engine and got back to your BTDC125 timing marks. When I did this, I found my timing marks all correct, but I found that my cam chain was loose on the tensioner side after I got back to my BTDC125 timing marks, and it was set tight before I did this. Basically, after installing cam chain tensioner properly and rotating the engine, when I got back to BTDC125 I found slack in the cam chain where there was not before. The only thing I did was rotate the engine and something created a bit of slack in the cam chain but only on one side of it at a time throughout the rotation of the engine. Do you think this could be cam chain wear causing this? It couldnt be a tooth skipped because my timing is good...
You could look in the manual to see how to check for cam chain wear.... Or I'm thinking, and I'm not sure, it could have something to do with being on cylinder one at 125 before top dead center on the compression stroke.... Maybe you're on cylinder two or three and that's why it's different...? Just guessing…..
@@meticulousmechanic thanks a ton for the ideas man and once again thanks for putting in all this work to film. Everything’s good for me after following except this cam chain behavior haha, I’m thinking it’s gotta be the tensioner or the chain itself. I’ll try to figure it out playing with the tensioner after I put everything back together. All timing marks check out after rotating the engine for now. You da man.
Im at the point to do the tb sync im not sure which direction is what. Does Right lower the reading? And left increase reading? Or the other way around?
Whatever you do... do not turn the screw with the paint... Just turn a screw one way and see what happens... and if it's the wrong way turn it the other way.... It's not going to be much of a turn...
How important is it to have the restrictors cut in even lengths?
Probably doesn't matter that much...they just hold the hoses together and restrict the airflow.... I measured the first cut and eyeballed the second... You should be able to hit plus or minus a millimeter no problem....
Hey man, I'm confusing myself here because the example in the manual I think is the opposite situation I have with my exhaust being too tight. Could you straighten this up with some verification of my math? I measure 0.21 on my exhaust, spec is 0.26 minimum 0.30 maximum. I'm 0.05 away from minimum spec. The bucket is tight against the lobe so I need to create a bigger gap. meaning the new valve shim should be a smaller number than the current shim installed, correct? This thinner shim would drop the bucket down and put me in the spec clearance, I understand that, but which shim number would be best for this specific scenario? Current shim is 180 (1.80mm). Does this mean if use a 175 shim, that would adjust this valve previously reading 0.21 from 0.21 to 0.26? If this is true, then the next option would be 170 shim which would adjust it to 0.31 which is out of spec, so I guess if this math is correct then I only have one shim option to replace the current shim with to make the adjustment into spec, which would be the minimum of the spec. range at 0.26. Any of this sound familiar to you, and any advice you might have?
Sounds like you're pretty much on the right track.... I'm about to head out on a ride right now so I couldn't totally think about it... I spent a couple days thinking about it and I drew a picture to get it in my mind.... I did mine in thousands of an inch instead of millimeters and I went down to a motorcycle shop which had more options than just the 0.05 mm increments.... I did the math in this video but it's been about a year.... I have heard especially on the exhaust that if you go with the bigger gap it's better because the exhaust Valve gap gets smaller faster over time than the intake... Due to the fact that it's hotter in that area.... I have experienced this with my dr650 doing its valves...
@@meticulousmechanic Thanks. The intervals of 5 are going to put me at either the bare minimum of the exhaust spec (0.26) and the next interval of 5 I can use would put me just over the maximum exhaust spec range at 0.31. Have you ever head of pads that fit this bike inbetween the intervals of 5? Specifically, if I could find a pad stamped 173 (1.73mm) this would adjust my exhaust valve to a comfortable 0.28 instead of the minimum 0.26. You ever heard of pads like this 173 I mention? Or only intervals of 5 everywhere on earth...
@@Jaggy1021 I rewatched my video...if you pause at 1:37 you can see all my numbers...I was using feeler gages that measure in thousandths of an inch because I had more options than with the millimeter gages...the Y means the gage went in and the N means it didn't...if you look in the middle of the page you'll see that on the 2nd cylinder left exhaust valve (2-L) that from the factory it came with a 188 and the motorcycle shop where I got the shims had a 178 which obviously is not an increment of .05....not sure where he got the shims maybe from a different make/model...I'll try to remember to ask him next time I'm in.....most of the other factory numbers are also not in increments of .05mm.. which by the way is 0.00196 inches round off to 0.002 inches. The tolerance is fairly tight on the exhaust .010-.012 inches...a human hair is typically about .003 inches...Maybe this is where the expression comes from..."we are splitting hairs!" If you haven't taken the cams out yet maybe try the gages that read in thousandths and you might be in spec since you are only over by .01 mm with your .31 mm which is .00039 inches...not even 1/3 of a thousandth....let me know what you find out...thanks
did you find the easier way to reassemble cams in timing after the exhaust cam rotates coutnerclockwise when removing the CCT like that?
kzread.info/head/PL9a5oWl0x1as8Zf1dRJhJ0teInrhb_qMl Go to this playlist and find the video on reinstalling camshafts.... I had to use a tool to turn it....
@@meticulousmechanic I skipped forward and paid attention to your moves there, thanks for that. I still wanted to ask in case there was anything you thought of that might help before getting to that point. Thanks for being prompt to reply, I'm sure the comments supplement others experience while going through troubleshooting things along the way
sounds like butter, i brought mine with light ticking and neutral sounds like crap
Did you figure out what the "light ticking is"
You save my life ...great video man ..thanks a lot !
Thanks
Hook wrench size?
I don't know the exact size it's an old bicycle tool from 1985 or so..."hozan C-205 made in Japan" I just measured it and if I had to guess one end has a 1-inch diameter approximate and the other an inch and a half with respect to the hook... From my recollection, you would use the 1-inch side.. there are models that are more adjustable where the hook pivots... Let me know if you find the official tool.... Thanks
My man, thanks for the videos and work put in. The takes for the coffee break included had me cracking up very well done.
Thanks for the nice comment!
Why is it important to have the OEM tool or make a similar one, I have a normal allen key and can I do the job, or am I doing something wrong?
Hi, What is your procedure for reinstalling the cam chain tensioner after a valve adjustment?
@@meticulousmechanic I clarify that my motorcycle is a YZF-R3, however, the tool referenced in the workshop manual is the same, I use instructions from the manual to adjust the valves, I use a common Allen tool to manage the cam chain tensioner, apparently the system of the FZ-09 is similar, I don't understand why the workshop manual says that we need to have a special tool.
@@andresh77 on the FZ 09, the frame is really close to the cam chain tensioner.... You could use a 3 mm but it hits the frame when you try to wind in the cam chain tensioner in when doing the final adjustment... You wouldn't need a special tool as long as you have room....
👍🏻 Good video i subscribed. Thanks.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the sub!
@@meticulousmechanic please answer my question on another comment below. Thanks 👍🏻
When the engine is working how does it compress 0,7" (3:20) if when you squeeze it (1:58) it only goes 1/16" and something is stoping from going further back (certainly the screw that you twist for it to retract) ? 🤔 Did i just understood it wrong or the whole actual play is just the 1/16" while the engine is working and the extra length it goes back is just for instalation purposes?
You're right it does retract for installation... Once you pull the key it's self adjusting as the cam chain wears... It can only go out not in...
Very informative!
Thanks for the positive comment!
very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome!
You should tighten the left hand cam holders before the right, so that the small amount of valve lift is taken up by the middle cyliner cam holders first. Tightening the right cam holders first applies a bending force to the camshafts. Nice clear vid - thanks
Thanks for the comment.... I just re-watched the video and I'm trying to figure out what you mean.... Somewhere around the 10 minute mark I am showing the tightening sequence.... The left cam cap as it's being filmed is one solid chunk that holds down the intake and exhaust cams whereas at the right they are separated. I believe you take it apart at 125 degrees before top dead center so there isn't a lot of force on the camcaps.... There was only one tiny little gap(about half a millimeter) on the third row of bolts from the left by the middle exhaust valves.... This gap was easily eliminated by the Criss-Cross tightening pattern. This is the valve that makes it hard to turn the exhaust camshaft when setting the timing as shown in part 2 of this video..... Didn't notice enough force to bend a camshaft when tightening.... I read in several forums where people would get the chain on the camshafts correctly and then use the Caps to tighten and push those middle exhaust valves down...but that would crack the caps for sure.... This is why I tightened the camcaps first, then rotated the exhaust cam with a tool to get the timing set per the second video in the series.... Please explain...maybe I'm missing something....
@@meticulousmechanicI'll come clean and admit I haven't had the top off yet but it's a job for this year when I hit 24k miles. I like to be ready for what I'm likely to find. No matter how many bikes you work on they're all slightly different and you can easily be caught out. Ive been reading through the shim changing section in my Haynes manual and they are adamant the you must start by tightening the bolts above the no 2 cylinder- the ones in the left-hand (ie two separate) camcaps to prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves. I believe you started tightening the bolts on the right hand, double camcap. Thanks again
thanks for responding...if anyone is reading this, the video is filmed looking from front to back whereas I think roast chicken 9143 observations of left and right are as if you are sitting on the bike looking forward. Regardless of that clarification, I find it interesting that the official Yamaha manual just says reinstall the camcaps and tighten in a criss cross pattern. The Haynes manual is "adament." I'm not sure what is meant by "prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves." From my experience, when I tightened in a criss cross fashion, I did not notice any excessive force on the camcap or camshaft above cylinder 2 exhaust valve....if I did it again, I would condsider the Haynes procedure...maybe after drawing down all the bolts to finger tight, I would tighten the bolts near exhaust valve two more first than all the others but still maintain a criss cross pattern to prevent excessive force on the campcaps which seem to be made of light weight aluminum and could crack easily. If anyone sees what we are missing, feel free to chime in!@@roastchicken9143
Could you have marked the chain and cams before removing them? Then assembly would be much more easy?? And agree about removing the lower cover!
Just rewatched my video... You would have to mark it in three places... The two cam gears and down on the crankshaft gear.... It could be a good reference but I would just follow the procedure I laid out... ultimately relying on the camshaft timing marks and the crankshaft at the correct rotation....
As it can be seen from the video your bike's seat - like 100% of FZ/MT 09 1&2 Gen - has a huge gap between the tang and the holder on the tank that means that the seat wiggles A LOT. To solve this you could stick a proper size teflon chair leg pad under the tank holder roof, so that it can hold firmly the tang. it's invisible and effective. If the hooks are loose themselves, you could cover them with heat shrinkable sheath. A bit of silicone grease on the lock trigger it does no harm to make the open close process easier
Good observation and advice...I can see what you are saying by rewatching my video.... I've never noticed the looseness when I'm riding... probably because of all the downward force of my body on the seat....now you have me curious...
I'm not through all the videos yet, so you may address this, but a thought occured to me. If I do all the calculations in advance could I just lay out the shims I will need and as I pop each shim out, just replace it with the correct size?
It's good you are thinking the process through before you blindly plow ahead! You have to take the old shim out to see how thick it is, so you can calculate what the new shim thickness will be. There would be many different ways to keep things organized....I used the labeled bags. I did all my calculations, and then went to the local motorcycle shop to buy the required replacements. ..so I didn't have to buy a large kit with different shims that I will probably never need. Then I came back and did what you are suggesting....one valve at a time.....
@@meticulousmechanic Thanks. Yes, I definitely want to think it all through and make sure I want to commit before pulling any camshafts out. For some reason I was thinking all the shims would be the same from the factory. I have to keep watching videos and not get ahead of myself. 😉
@@meticulousmechanic I do like your idea of gathering all the measurements and then just buying the shims I need. Those kits are a bit spendy and with my luck I'd need two of the same size and have to buy more anyway.
Is it a 3mm Allen?
Yes...3mm... Found this video one year after I made this video that just came out from Yamaha... kzread.info/dash/bejne/hoeTq85wdJadk9Y.htmlsi=fSkqulTq_sBqXEuq I think my tool works a little better but if you're in a time crunch at the end of this video they give the dimensions on how to cut the 3 mm Allen key.... Haven't tried it but it looks like it could possibly work.... Harder to turn than the one I make in this video.....
@@meticulousmechanicthank you, you’ve definitely made reshimming my MT a feasible project. Very good videos
Thanks, nice to know my 70 degree garage (in phoenix) will be fine for checking my valves (2015 FJ-09). Thanks for your other videos as well, I just ordered feeler gauges after watching another one of your videos.
You're welcome.... You probably already found this but all the videos for the valve clearance check and adjust are located in a playlist for easy reference...
@@meticulousmechanic Yes, it is very helpful! 🙂
that’s a sick stand! about to do a top end rebuild, thanks for all the info.
You're welcome! How did the rebuild go...which year and model do you have?
Hi thank you for your videos they are fantastic. Question. Can I cable tie the two chains together with the timing chain cover removed and then pull out the guide and replace it with a new one the rear guide only and tensioner as well. Thank you in advance
I don't understand your question ....what are you trying to do and why?
Have a question about removing the tensioner. I read to never do it on a mounted engine. However I see yours is mounted. Do you know why they recommend not to do it on a mounted engine?
Whoever "they" are is probably wrong... It's irrelevant if the engine is mounted or not because the tensioner just pushes on the cam chain... Maybe they're thinking of some other issue?
@@meticulousmechanicyou are probably right. It is in the Yamaha manual on a small box as a tip. But the manually misses a few things that are important in other areas. I just could not understand the reason behind why removing it with the engine mounted should be a no no. Thanks for responding. Videos are great!
Greetings from Germany... i watched your videos to do it on my own rn43 sp. it helped me. very good made videos thank you
Great to hear…….thanks for the positive feedback!
Great video thanks , I've noticed none of my screws have any white paint on them , would would you recommend and is there any other way of knowing what the main throttle body is
What is the make year and model of the bike you are working on?
@@meticulousmechanic 2020 Yamaha mt10 , I've checked the service manual and it's very similar to your mt09 , I got mine tuned so no 02 sensors anymore , I've noticed some people think you can turn the bypass screw but because mine is tuned I want to do it right , thanks for the reply
@@bccapone837I don't know... Did the service manual specify a certain cylinder that is the one you don't mess with? I noticed with my bike I accidentally tried to turn the one with the white paint because I was filming and not paying total attention.... It didn't even want to turn like it was locked tight... The other two screws turned easily.... as the last case emergency scenario.... You might be able to find the one that doesn't turn easy but you would have to be careful and watch where the slot exactly was so you can get it back there if it turns....? I would do some more research before I tried this though!
@@meticulousmechanic no the service manual is like yours it just said don't turn the white screw but didn't mention anything about what cylinder , I won't tackle it until I'm sure what one it is in case I make a mistake , i did read somewhere that its usually the one that the throttle cables and tps go to so on ours it would be the right side one if you were sat on the bike but not sure how accurate that is . So far Ive done the plugs , air filter oil change and oil filter , coolant change and new brake fluid front and rear so I'm looking forward to doing the sync and getting it all where it should be . much appreciate the feedback I'll let you know if I find out what one it was , all the best 👍🏼😎
@@bccapone837 maybe you could find out if Yamaha specifies a certain cylinder at the factory... Hopefully it's not willy-nilly (without direction or planning )depending on what the current factory technician feels like doing... Let me know what you find out I'm curious!
is yamaha r6 and r1 valve shims are same or not
I don't know....I would check service manual for your bike...good luck!
you are a great teacher
Thank you!
Perfect! I can apply this on my Yamaha Sidewinder snowmobile.
Good to hear!
I am also a tall guy and work on my multistrada gives me serious back pain, mind you I am only 26😂. One question about the stand. As you lift it in a wheelie position,or just the normal level position and then proceed to remove the forks and wheels from the bike, does any movement happen in the stand? From the weight shifting as you remove heavier components
In the normal level position, at least on my bike, the engine is to the front of the pivot on the abba stand. This makes the bike want to rotate with the front wheel going towards the ground. You can take off both wheels and the fork and it remains the same since the engine is so heavy. I usually use this mode most of the time. I set it up in wheelie mode to do my valve adjustment(see this playlist kzread.info/head/PL9a5oWl0x1as8Zf1dRJhJ0teInrhb_qMl&si=4yN2D8n-B9gDU_fk) and got into trouble trying to get it back to normal mode. I figured out (I declare that it is not safe but works) how to get it back and show the tecnique in this video. kzread.info/dash/bejne/o5-ZrbZ-qdqph6Q.htmlsi=8T7e8qFXipBOquLL See the description in this video for links to other ways that I used the stand. Hope this helps!?
@meticulousmechanic Do you find the bike is held securely enough to loosen torqued bolts while the bike is held up in the skylift? I'm looking to make my own stand similar to the Skylift, and considering a few minor changes to the design to make it more suitable for my needs. I'm just not sure that it will be sturdy enough to do some maintenance and repair tasks in the lift.
@@WillT1000If you're removing the wheels you'll need to break the axle nuts free while it's on the ground... it's not stable enough in the air.... For general maintenance like lubing the chain and adjusting the valves, it works perfectly fine... I would incorporate something in your design to hold it by the foot pegs(or somewhere convenient not where the swing arm pivot is located) so that you can service the rear swingarm when needed.... If you want more stability I would also incorporate a mechanism to hold it by the front fork and/or rear swingarm when the wheel/wheels are removed....
Great demonstration on the inner working of the valve cover. TY for sharing! 🤜🤛
Glad you liked it! Thanks for letting me know!
If you were out of timing your valves would hit and the motor would not spin
Correct.... That's why it's a good idea to spend the crank slowly by hand to verify that everything is timed correctly...
Bro, you’re amazing for making every single on of these videos. Thank you so much 🙏🏻
You're welcome...Thanks so much for the positive comment! It means a lot
So you should probably mention that when you take off the seat it is the very back little square that releases only on the left of the bike. Video says it’s a removal and reinstall but the only thing you showed was the reinstall not taking it off after taking 45 minutes to figure it out I got it but would be helpful if you SHOWED THE WHOLE PROCESS
Thanks for the comment! You are right... To get the seat off, just turn the key and lift up on the rear of the seat while pulling slightly to the rear. It's a little harder to get back on properly... that's why I showed all the little mechanisms involved for reinstallation....glad you figured it out!
where you get the shims from?
I went down to a local motorcycle shop and bought just the ones I needed
wow you'd think Yamaha would have come up with a better design on that spacer by now ,just did 2020 tracer and its all the same ,I wrap the spacer with some teflon tape to hold it in snug ,once I got the faster started I installed the lower spacer ,,then used a funnel to fill reservoir thanks for the vid
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment...I just re-watched the video 7 months later... When I do it again, I would do it like you..... mount the bottle without the coolant in it, then use a tiny funnel to fill it.
@@meticulousmechanic
Hey whats wrong with the radiator, if there is any
Nothing is wrong with the radiator you are correct... I just took it off so I could film the valve adjustment procedure better.... Some people just tilt the radiator forward to do a valve adjustment... It's not too hard to remove so I would probably just take it off and change the coolant while you're at....if it's time....
nice job, how you feel the actual riding differences compare to OEM shock?
Thanks... I mainly did it because I weigh 240 lbs.The stock springs are for someone around 180 from what I've read. It feels a little more planted when going around corners fast...
thx, I ordered my ohlins rear shock 1 month ago and it feels more stable through uneven road, eliminate uncomfortable high frequency pitching motion, great@@meticulousmechanic
I'm following the playlist order and am guessing you didn't happen to record taking the front forks off. Do you believe it to be worthwhile to remove the forks for the valve clearance job? Reviewing the manual it doesn't seem to be required and I can see the benefit. Curious to your opinion.
No need to remove the forks... I removed mine because I sent them off to Stoltec Moto to have the springs replaced with stiffer ones for my weight and to have the dampers modified to work with the stronger springs.... I figured I could get the suspension work done while I finished the valve job. If you haven't changed the oil in your forks in a while this might be a good time to do it.... Also it would be easier to reach in and do the work without the front wheel and forks in the way.... You'd have to tie off the front brakes out-of-the-way somehow or take those off too...if you wanted it to look like how I did it.... I also removed everything just so I could film better.....
I definitely forgot to read the manual, that's why my gauges were jumping as madman when trying to use this device the first time :)
LOL... Like they say "if all else fails... read the directions!"
Greetings from "across the pond". Just about to dump some cash on a set of these gauges; so it's good to see how they're made ready for use. Have you made a video of you actually synching your bike's carburettors with them?.
Yes, If you click on the description of the video there's a link... it's number 39 40 and 41of this playlist kzread.info/head/PL9a5oWl0x1as8Zf1dRJhJ0teInrhb_qMl
@@meticulousmechanic Thanks my friend 👍🏻
@@WhyteZone You're welcome!
Brilliant series of videos, I've got to do my MT10 soon, might buy an ABBA stand looks good
Thanks for the vote of confidence! I love the Abba stand especially because you can roll it out of the way when not using it...