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Go Chelsie and remember it is for the kids!
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Stage 2 kit video ???
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Help with my Maytag Neptune dryer model # and serial # below
My name is Rich Grant and my dryer has been running for a while then stops , then runs again for a while , then stops but today it stopped and just makes a light clicking sound when I try to start it , sounds like a relay clicking on and then in about 20 seconds , off. The timer goes from 102 minutes and as its clicks, right to end . No error codes , just 102- 1 and end? [email protected], thanks
Are you still watching these comments? I have a Neptune model number (P)MDG9700AWW , serial number (S)14669491 GN
Thanks for the video -- in particular, the way to temporarily bypass the lock is so simple yet I didn't see it described elsewhere while researching this problem. Question, though: I got someone else to do a control board repair and I think they didn't succeed -- the washer behaves the same. But I don't know because it could also have a locking failure unrelated to the control board. Before I buy your kit and try the repair myself, how can I verify that the board really is still faulty? Something I could check with a multimeter maybe, or ?? Or can I only try to rule out other causes of failure to lock? (The behavior is just "no lock, so no spin": despite it having been used, in ignorance, in its half-working condition, it doesn't have any other symptoms of "extra" board damage, like water flow or timer, that iirc you mention elsewhere as cases when your "stage 2" kit is needed or when the board would be irreparable.)
go dad
Cool
can I add the kit to my existing doorbell button its square like the one you sell only its a aluminum finish
Should the old style spacer (thin, non-beveled) be upgraded to the thicker beveled style?
Hi Jack, if your original thin spacer is not cracked and looks structurally sound you can re-use it. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
The best thing Maytag builds now is a reason to buy SPEED QUEEN!
Thanks for the warning! 👍🏻
You're welcome! I do my best to keep my clients informed about important issues. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
My local washing machine repairer, hates you now that that they've missed out on call.
Hi there... Somethings you can easily do yourself : - ) Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
your. a god
This was so helpful! Thank you for posting!!
Very good video. Mine is a hot point washing machine but essentially the same. Only thing I'd add is that it's that to turn the drum from the rear is tricky so I turned from inside the drum so no chance of catching my fingers/knuckles. This vid saved me a heap of hassle. Thank you very much 😃👍🏻
Brilliant, couldn't have done it without this trick. Especially on my Samsung machine were they had the stupid idea of making the back panel un-removable.
This was awesome! Thank you so much - I'm so glad I was able to fix the squeaking on my dryer myself!
superb tip, thanks mate
hey !! thanks a lot i was fighting 2 weeks and bought 2 belts thinking they were wrong. i would hug you :-p ...thanks a lot and sorry for my english XD
Thank you! we were sure we had the wrong belt. Our washer is working fine now. thank you!
That is a top trick using a cable tie - thanks for sharing phil mason
had to use 2 ties. That was one tight belt. wouldn't of gotten it on without your tip. Thanks
Hi, I have a washing machine and the belt came off and I was unable to fit it back on, I watched your video and the tip you gave I now have managed to get it back straight away, Thank-you Kind Regards
it's really works nice trick thank you very musch
great video! I applied your instructions and actually fixed our dryer! Thanks heep much!!!!
My neptune washer drum doesn't turn at all. wash cycle or nothing. Is the R11/transistor and wax motor for this issue too. Thanks
Hi Rich, In most cases the R11 resistor, Q6 triac and wax motor does not damage the motor control board ... But it is possible. If you have the brown tipped wax motor see my www.neptunehelp.com to replace it. Remember that all of the timer based stand alone Neptune's shipped with the faulty brown tipped wax motor. Some stackers shipped with the new black tipped wax motor once Maytag figured out what the root cause was. I would check the belt first because that can cause no movement to happen. If you have noticed your Neptune getting louder in the spin cycles then that is the bearings failing. See my www.neptunebearing.com more information. In addition, bad bearings can damage the motor drive by putting excessive load on the motor drive system. I would recommend running the motor drive diagnostic test to see if your inner basket rotates at 50 rpms. There should be a document in the top console section on the stand alone Neptunes and it will tell you how to perform the motor drive diagnostic test. See my www.12002039.com for more motor drive information. I hope this helps... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
why did maytag not fix this problem!! my expensive washer sounds like a jet engine on the spin cycle!
Hi there, you can replace your Neptune bearings with my help at www.neptunebearing.com. Actually, it is more important now to keep your Neptune running because Whirlpool is welding the tub halves together so you will not be able to replace your bearings. Models include WFW72HEDW0, WFW87HEDW0 and WFW95HEDW2. You will have to buy an expensive tub assembly to repair these machines. See my video at kzread.info/dash/bejne/foJ9y62DmbzIXZM.html. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
I love the Internet. This is *exactly* what I needed, thanks a bunch!
Thankyou so much! I didn't have tie wraps so I wrapped some metal wire around to keep it in place, only took seconds!!! I'm very pleased :D
Great info. Thanks Jeff.
You're welcome! Let me know if you run across a washer where you cannot change the bearings and seal... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Good one, and good to know, thank you,
You're welcome! I'm always looking out for my clients! Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Thank for the demo this yr is my first foggier your vid gave me some good ideas nicely done .
Was this in Western New York by any chance?
Hi Jeff, no this event was held in Columbus, Ohio.
Great engineering input. Those designers at Whirlpool don't think people like you will call them out like this. If they put excellent SKF or Nachi bearings in the machine, this wouldn't be such an issue. But they put junk bearings in the machine, and then weld it shut so you can't change them. Horrible.
To me... the tub seal is more important because if the bearings (any manufacturer) get wet they will fail... Most washer bearing failures are due to the tub seal leaking water. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Nice milestone, good job.
I've found it isn't strictly necessary to remove the detergent bin to effect the repair. I also ended up propping open the lid with a bit of old floor tile. Thanks for the step-by-step disassembly! I'm using it right now, in reverse order, to reassemble the unit.
R11 and q6 fried on my mah4000, but my washer went through the cycle as normal, but in the last state "idle" it would continue tumbling intermittently, indefinitely. I believe this is because the triac fused closed causing the wax motor to never disengage. .
Hi, Yes, you are correct... Your Q6 triac shorted internally which will keep the wax motor energized so the washer will just slowly tumble back and forth waiting for the door to unlock. Visit my www.neptunehelp.com for my STAGE 1 Q6 R11 repair kit. Thank you, Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
really helpful thanks
Hey Jeff (Mr. Neptune Man...Please Help) Question! I recently received both the Maytag Washer #MAH5500BWW & Matching Dryer for $175.00. They are both in awesome condition, just needed cleaning as they were sitting in a garage. They both work flawless. My question/problem, at the bottom of the rubber boot where that tiny single hole to drain water is, it was rusty (whoever owned them before me, had very bad water as well as they never cleaned these machines) So I, like an idiot decided to clean that hole by using a nail, which turned into a screw. Long story short, that screw fell into that single drain hole at the bottom of the rubber boot and is gone. The machine now, immediately, leaks water as soon as I start a load, within 3-5 seconds. Mind you, since getting this combo I have done at least 30 loads and have had zero problems. No leaks, no noises, nothing, honestly flawless. No smell either as I cleaned everything with "Tide Machine Washer" and "Clorox's" version too. Do you think I somehow tore the boot or is it possible that the screw traveled and tore up something major? May I ask what is your honest opinion is as to what else might be leaking? It started leaking AS SOON as I dropped that screw...I started a load right after dropping it and as soon as it started to fill, all the water was at the front of the washer, at my feet. No water in back FYI I appreciate your time and input as I want to order the right part once. Would you advise me calling a repair man to diagnose the problem? As far as replacing that "boot"...I am very comfortable I can do that. Again I thank you in advance for your time sir, Dustin
Hi Dustin, I would see if the water is over flowing the water dispenser. Open the dispenser lid when it starts to fill and see if it is over flowing. The softener/ bleach hoses leaving the dispenser can become clogged or perhaps there's another obstruction with the water flow. Let me know what you find. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
WOW....Thank you so much for your quick reply....So I just tried what you suggested. I started the machine with "Delicate"..."Warm/Warm" water Temp...."Quick" wash. Pressed "START" and water flows to the soap dispenser as normal but nothing to either the Softener or Bleach Dispenser....but again immediately (5 seconds or less) I can hear it (water, more of a dropping than a dripping sound) and right at my left & right feet are two (2) LARGE pools of warm/hot water. So I stop/pause it and open the door and the door is wet (inside) as well as the clothes are starting to show signs of a little water. This all happens before the door "locks" to show you how much and how fast it begins pouring at my feet. I checked, it is NOT coming from the door or around the door. Rather (I cannot lift the machine) but from UNDER and it seems and sound as if it is right below that front fascia panel. Also, that screw, when I so stupidly tried to poke that drain hole became stuck. I tried to get it out but no matter how much I tried to back it out (twisting/turning left) it just went deeper and after a couple of turns it was gone. Again the machine worked perfectly until I messed up and used a screw instead of a Q-Tip. The machine literally had just finished a load before I decided to try and clean that drain hole. Any ideas Jeff? Again thank you so very much for your time, Dustin
Dustin, the next step would be to remove the front panel so you can maybe see where the water is leaking from. There could be a crack in the door boot since they flex quite a bit when washing the clothes. See my how to inspect the wax motor video on my neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page482.htm page and it will show how to remove the door, front panel. You could reinstall the door and start machine and maybe have a better look at where the water is coming from... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Ahhh….you beat me to the post. I DID IT…I FIXED IT!!! First of all, thank you so much for the informative video as well as your responses. I apologize if this is a little long, but, it might help someone else in the future. I watched your entire video from beginning to end and something you said caught my attention. It almost seemed as if it was an afterthought to you as you were showing us how to do this repair. When you disconnected the black drain tube that connects the "boot" to the basket, you mentioned that some earlier models just dripped in that hole and that was that. Then you went on to mention that for those that would like to have it connected like this model washer, they could order that little drain tube and then drill a hole into the basket (like this model has) and it would drain as the pump drained the basket. So I thought, if that area has water being sucked out by the pump, it also possibly holds water as it begins to fill. I don’t know, it made sense to me and maybe I am not explaining my thoughts correctly, I apologize. Anyways, I decided to do exactly as you just advised before this post and began to slowly remove things to see if I can locate the cause of this large leak. I figured at the very least, I tore or punctured the “boot” with that screw. I watched the last step where you began securing the boot by pressing the rubber back to the “shroud” So I began there, by removing the boot from the “shroud” After I did this, VERY carefully as to not tear it, just in case. I was able to see that black drain tube you spoke of and there it was, hanging, disconnected from the “boot” with my screw dead center in the black drain tube but still connected to the basket. I could not safely remove it from the basket with pliers because the front panel was still attached. So I followed your instructions just enough to remove the front plate/face of the machine. I then removed the entire drain tube. I removed the screw and to my surprise it was also FULL of hair and sand. I also found a hair pin and a small rubber band inside of that tube. I also pulled some light debris from the drain hole where it connects back to the basket. Anyways, I carefully put everything back together and that’s that, it works. No leaks and everything is working normal. I really thank you Jeff for your time, instructional video and responses. You saved me a lot of heartache and serious money. BTW: I am very surprised at how much water came out of that little tube. Dustin
Great video. Very helpful. One thing that I notice when taking my voltage measurements is that I get the .38 volts from terminal 1 to 2 with the power off to the washer i.e. plugged in but the power button not pushed. When I push the power button, my voltage goes to 1.19 volts from terminal 1 to 2 on the CCU. What does this mean? Is my pressure switch bad or is the CCU going out on me? Thanks again for the great videos.
Hello, in your case it looks like a CCU issue. From my experience with past clients the F35 Error Repair kit at www.f35error.com will fix your F35 error code issue. Thank you, Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Hi Jeff, my Neptune MDG5500AWW will and will not start intermittently. When it is running , it is perfect... but when it does not want to start it will just not start,,, I will unplug let it, let it sit from a minute to a few days then replug in and it may start... When it is not going to start the light on start button is not lit.... when it is going to start the button is lit.... it is not associated with over heating because the dryer can be cold, but the light on the starter button is not lit...
Hello, sounds like it could be the motor . Does it seem to start more reliably with a lighter load ( or no load) in dryer? Send me your email and I will send you a PDF service manual link. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Now I'm having another problem.After installing the new wax motor,the door locked light won't come on and door isn't locking.I have the maytag washer and dryer combo,looks like the exact same setup as the vid.What should I do now.
Hi Michael, I would check to see if your R11 resistor is burnt on the upper machine control board located behind timer. See www.neptunehelpsong.com for more information about the burnt R11 resistor issue. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Ok,thanks Jeff.
Great vid,thanks for the help.
Just finished replacing my boot. Took abut an hour but that included cleaning the various parts. The hardest part of this process is the spring. While taking it off it just slid off which made it easier. While putting it back on I found that using a shoe string on the spring was the best way to put the spring back together. Make sure you check the wire after attached. I had to go and move mine into the correct position.