I tinker with 8-bit Commodores (C128, C64, PET, Plus/4 etc), and 16-bit ones (Amiga...), plus disk drives and other bits and computers. Mostly 80s/90s but sometimes newer. Projects, repairing stuff, breaking stuff, software, hardware, 3D printing, coffee, & 85% chocolate...
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could I run it on an raspberry pi zero 2 w?
I don't know about a Zero 2W, but you can certainly run it on a bigger Pi.
Nice! Reminds me I wouldn't mind a C64 with modern keys.. At least one candidate for a new keyboard on Github.
That's an early rev c74 with tan keys and a 407 board..... nice
Love a good c64 video mate .. the 8key is in the post mate
Thanks 👍
If you are going to get a new case then use the new KB else just fit a #8 key as you've fixed F1. Enjoyed the vid Tim 👌
nice test kit do you sell them for the c64 also what other computer do they work on plz also do you do repairs?
No, but they're readily available on ebay and other online stores. The harness is usually sold separately from the cartridge. There are versions for the C64, C128, Plus/4 & C16 etc.
Maybe that's a Vic-20 keyboard?
Interesting, that's a possibility...
Use the new keyboard. Just my vote. Nice work.
Thanks for sharing this.
If you ask me, this is a super ugly update. (Sorry to say.) It is way tidier to replace the existing 16KB DRAMs with 64KB DRAMs and run the wires on the bottom side of the board, if you run them in horizontal/vertical lines, with a drop of glue, this looks super tidy. For the cutting the trace under U7 I did drill a tiny hole, this causes less scars than desoldering U7.
Brilliant video Tim. I managed to snag a lovely condition C16 a few years ago from F/Book/MarketPlace which had a blown internal fuse and a faulty power supply plug. After replacing the internal fuse with a brand new one and fixing the P/Supplies faulty plug the machine powered up perfect. I then researched on Google to add the 64k RAM upgrade, which i did mine with an On-Off inline switch (so i can still switch back to the standered 16k (as there are a few C16 games that refuse to run correctly in 64k mode (Rockman is just one of these games). I also added an internal SD2IEC Micro SD card board, added heat sinks to the main IC chips and it works flawless. I last owned a C16 in the late 1980's/early 1990's and spent many joyfull and happy hours playing Rockman, Bandits at Zero, Booty and Blagger. For me the C16 is still such a thing of pure beauty and nostalgia.
Finally a color-coordinated 1581 for my Plus 4!
Did a similar mod with 2 chips and breakout wires, looks like a neat mod, how you finding the ksger ?
The Ksger is a dream!
When you zoom out, it’s amazing what drives us.
I always wonder why the Plus4 has 8 RAM chips and the C16 only 2, those 8 must have been way cheaper back in the day, but they could have saved a lot of space on the board an put more ROMs in it and called Plus5. LOL I upgraded my C16 last weekend the old way, put the bodge wires under the board then it looks almost original from a distance :)
Nice upgrade :) .. Id keep the ram chip you took out mate .. They go in the C64 466 board :)
Don't worry, I'm not getting rid of them ;)
I think they are the wrong ones. The 64 uses a pair of xx464, 4 bits x 64K, but these are xx416, 4 bits x 16K hence the need for the upgrade.
@DaveCurran correct fella .. I dont know what I was thinking. It must be an age thing, lol
@@8BitRetroReFix I think we could all do with a memory upgrade :^)
I'm still not getting rid of them! ;-)
Great, thank you. Yes, using the board to align the sockets does help. Dual wipe sockets are more forgiving for alignment, but the turned pins ones seem a better contact.
Wow, I thought that would have been in a wedge case and not a bread bin. I didn't know the made a C-16 like that. I guess the smaller ram chips were a lot cheaper back in the days of lore.
The wedge case didn't appear until the C128, and by that time the C16 was done and dusted. I guess it didn't sell well enough for them to retool.
@@TimsRetroCorner I meant the wedge case that the C64C (Short Board was in). Wasn't that sort of wedgy? (lol)
Yep. It was a shortened version of the C128 case.
@@TimsRetroCorner Ah, okay, I did not know that; cool. It is good to learn at least one new thing each day <smile>.
The retro-brighting of the keys and case look great. I haven't used a tape drive in 40 years so I can't help you with functionality.
good one tim. i'll give that a go.
I'm curious about your ground routing, also what is the noise polution like, as in are there certain days that are much noiser? If atmospheric noise is not a problem then I would suspect connectors and cables may have intermitten issues.
Very impressive work Tim!
Cheers mate
Well done Tim, I admire your perseverance 😊
Very useful guide. Nice.
Great job!!
Liked the vid, and i'm a BBC / Atari bloke. Why not do your PCB revisions in the colour code? Brown, red, orange, yellow, green etc, then you will know the revision by colour. I just thought of this, and its what I will do in future. Version one is always 'brown' anyway !
Nice idea, but the entire spectrum isn't necessarily available for solder mask colours (unless you go for UV overprinting. Plus some solder masks can be a lot more expensive than others. I tend to just go for "a cheap colour that I haven't used recently", lol
@TimsRetroCorner I've only ever done green, call me traditional. I guess some colours are more popular. Back to that little grid where you can see the layers and revision etched in. Would have been fun though.
Nice vid, shame about the TED 😢
Yeah, at first I thought maybe I'd done something really stupid, like pulling the cartridge out with the power on. But reviewing the footage, I didn't. It seems to have just given up :(
The amigados command "format" is in the c dir of the install disk and if you highlite the disk you want to format then you can go to the ikon menu on top and select format
@47:44 Your mistake was that you forgot to press the RETURN key after pressing the PLAY button
Thanks.
Nice video! :) You resistor value worry me a bit. You should multiply them by 10 before you test any more 6507's. The databus is probably fine since you have RW tied high but I'd still put 10k in case it does something funky during powerup. The address pins should not be sourcing > 6mA - that'll let the magic smoke out if it's close already or at least burn the NMOS gate pullup. Also, remember there's no 65C07 - the 6507 will start losing register data < 10kHz. From experience the program counter is a bit more resilient than that so for the NOP test here, you might get away with it. It's a quick, cheap and easy way to test if a 6507 is likely to work but of course it won't test registers.
Always learning :)
I’m just puzzled as to why you thought the 2 x Capacitors were installed backwards in the first place so decided to install them the wrong way round?
Because it's a well documented fault, and brain was not engaged that some boards might be correct.
@@TimsRetroCorner Oh ok & fair enough, I’ve only just come back into the Amiga scene after owning an A1200 many years ago and finding an A600 that I’d left in my Brothers loft in the late 90’s albeit in a poor state of repair & missing the PSU & Floppy, I’ve replaced one of the Caps near NE555 as it turned on initially after buying a PSU and after a few minutes I got a BSOD and removing the Cap near NE555 brought the “Insert Disk Screen” back so I’ve since replaced that Cap, I’m not looking forward to replacing some of the other Caps though, I’ve also managed to mod a Samsung PC Floppy Drive to work with the A600 so it now loads Workbench 3.0 fine, Question for you, Should a standard PC Serial mouse work with an A600 or not as I don’t have an Amiga Mouse?
...or a BackBit Chip Tester Pro
Sure, if you've got a spare couple of hundred bucks and don't mind waiting for transatlantic shipping ;)
@@TimsRetroCorner It even tests the 6530 and 6532 (!) chips in a Pet 4040 Floppy drive control board. I've use it to test 6504s, already. I really liked you showing the difference between the 6504 and the 6507. I thought the Atary 2600 used the 6504, now I have learned - almost, just missed it by 3 - heh heh
Well, I'm taking a different approach to testing the 6532.... but that's for another video!
Hi, are the LEDs directly connected to the address-Pins ? did you do the math how much current goes through the IC with all LEDs being on ? The datasheet says the output is only valid to drive TTL logic !
Each LED is pulling 1.6mA, and that's one 'TTL Load' - they don't need to run at full power.
Check CPU clock & reset pins
Thank you. Very helpful video
My Dad had an FX-80 for his BBC Micro, and I don't think he ever bought a new ribbon for it. His trick was to open the ribbon case (carefully, so as not to let the ribbon spring out), give the ribbon mass a moderate even spray with WD-40, reassemble, and leave it for a few hours. As the print head only hammers the centre third or so of the ribbon, the solvent in the WD-40 would wick some of the ink from the unused top and bottom to replenish the used stripe. If done with the right amount of spray, it was indistinguishable from a new ribbon. I'm not sure if the thin lube in the WD-40 played any role, but I doubt it'd hurt. He ran our school's computer department with about 100 BBC Micros and subsequently Arcs across the campus, so this trick was used to significantly reduce the consumables cost right up until they switched to laser printing.
I did try re-inking mine once back in the day. I remember it was very messy and not particularly effective. Ink went everywhere except into the ribbon, and subsequent prints could only be described as "blotchy". Maybe WD-40 would have done better...
It'll be a LOT of work, but you can definitely fix this computer. I have faith in you ;-) Get it done!
One day I'll get a microscope, then I'll be able to see what I'm doing, lol
Laptops from this era had a certain science fictiony look about them, that assymetrical display hinge and drive bays and ports all over the place. Cool! Shame the guts are munted.
The case is in good nick, and the keyboard has a really nice feel to it.. Maybe one day I'll find one with a good mainboard & trashed case... Failing that, there's always the option of putting a Pi or FPGA inside it...
Worth noting is that if you want to use ppazip with Workbench 1.x you need the older ppazip 0.7, not 0.8 that is on aminet. That isn't really explained in the readme.
I had (still do) 2 Zip Drives --- One for my PC and one for my Amiga. Also had (have) LS-120 Disk/Drives.
actualy Iomega made a scsi drive called a floptical before the zip (i've had a coupel) that was a 21 mb floppy drive but it could altso read HD nd SD floppies
I loved my time with a Zip. Mine was in my new Gateway Computer. I got one put in. Because they said that one was available. I also got my hard drive upgraded from 2.5 gb. To 6 gb. The largest one around at the time. Good Old Days. 😊😊😊😊
First time we got a 4GB drive in the office, I remember we all crowded around to look at it. "Max Storage!!!" And these were full-on heavy half-height drives, not the thin single platter things we see nowadays!
Very cool Tim :) I just love it, Making two devices (never meant to use together), working :) awesome! Cheers
Maybe I should try and hook it up to an IEC bus....
Thanks for the video! I am currently trying to calibrate my CD32 too. I did not quite get the point when you adjusted pot 3 and 4. What do I need to look for on the oscilloscope? A signal shape that is as balanced as possible, without undulations?
Yes, you're looking for the least amount of turbulence in the signal.
I may know whats on the disk with the Wav files! They were edited or even made with something called Wavelab. Quite likely this particular disk was used with an SCSI zip drive on an Akai rackmounted sampler. Maybe anything from an S1100 or even an S3000XL. I have a bunch of these samplers. I am getting things together to hook up an scsi zip drive to one of the samplers in my collection.
Ok this is great timing! I found a stash of my old zip disks a while ago. Then I decided a few days ago to buy in some zip drives, ide and scsi.
I really like the zip drive. Feels like a future that never was. It was too short lived.
For a variety of reasons I think. The disks were fairly expensive, somewhat bulky and they couldn't keep up with the storage capacity of CD-Rs and USB thumb drives, even though there was a 250 MB version of the ZIP disk. I also seem to remember Iomega made some questionable business decisions with another, physically smaller disk format intended for digital cameras. For me, the appearance of USB thumb drives is what I consider my "personal 640 KB moment". When people around me first started using them in 2002 or so me and my mates were like: "What the heck is that and why would anyone use it? It's not like you'd simply take it and give it to someone with the files you want to share, or post it to someone! Someone will invent a removable disk that stores multiple gigabytes at the cost of a 1.44 MB floppy disk soon and those USB drives will be forgotten!". Well, you all know how that went. Perhaps today SD cards are the closest to what floppies used to be but even small ones are still more expensive. I mean how much was a budget floppy near the end of the era? 1 Euro in today's money maybe, or even less than that? I vaguely seem to remember a ten-pack for a fiver but adjusted for inflation 1 Euro probably isn't too far off.
No "click of death" yet then ;-)
Nope. Never had it back in the day either. Maybe I was just lucky...
@@TimsRetroCorner I had a few of these drives back in the day one had an issue but the other 4 were OK. I also believe a bad disk can damage a good drive too. I also had a floptical drive too, remember those?
@@TimsRetroCorner My dad's first one developed the CoD after a few years, the one he bought to replace it outlived the ZIP era. The ugly thing is the drive destroys the data on the disk when it fails with the CoD.
I use a 100MB zip drive for moving files between my PC (I also use another USB zip drive with an old laptop) and my Archimedes 3010 computer, it works perfect. 😊 Btw. USB zip drives dont work on PC's with Windows 10/11 at least that's from my experience, so I have Windows XP on my old laptop and here it works.
I'd heard that too. But the USB Zip works fine on my Windows 11 laptop. I guess it gets treated as a generic USB storage device?
Some of them have both parallel and SCSI. They called them Iomega Zip100 Plus ... Whatever you do, never have the Amiga or the device powered on when unplugging or plugging in something in the serial/parallel port of the Amiga. It will blow the 8520 chip. I used a SCSI ZipDrive for my Amiga back in the days. Much faster than the parallel version. If i remember correctly, no drivers was needed. You need to use a file manager like "Diskmaster" or similar.
Good tip. Especially in the A1200 & A600, where the CIAs are soldered on.