Hello. Thanks for the video. Can you please specify how many millimeters you adjusted the rollers to? On my mill it says on the side, on the adjustment wheels: 0.5 or 0.3 mm. Thank you in advance.
@tybrewing98073 ай бұрын
Hey, no worries at all. I believe the factory setting was .039”, but I adjusted mine closer to .042”. This resulted in a slight loss of brewhouse efficiency in favor of more consistent lauters. My brewing system is notorious for having tricky lauters though, I would definitely recommend experimenting/keeping detailed brew logs and see what works best for your particular setup.
@zberteoc4 ай бұрын
Did you mean a rancid taste, like rancid oil?
@tybrewing98074 ай бұрын
Diacetyl is said to have a taste and aroma of rancid butter when present in beer. While everybody’s perception of it is a little different, that is one of the more agreed upon descriptions. It also tends to give beer an oily mouthfeel. Some people say it gives a ‘slickness’ to the beer, but I’ve found that it just makes it seem kind of dull and savory in an off-putting way. Hope this helps!
@zberteoc4 ай бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 this explains some of my old memories while living in an communist country we would find once in a while a beer bottle with that rancid oily taste that was disgusting. We thought at the time that they were using bottles that used to store cooking oil before. The half liter bottles, green or brown, were also used to store cooking oil and we thought they were not washed properly before filled with beer. The recycle program was collecting them together so the scenario was believable.
@terrysaunders82224 ай бұрын
"Wetting Pressure" is sort of a misnomer, you are actually determining what's called "bubble point". Bubble point is driven by several factors. The contact angle of the liquid is influenced by what the solution makeup is. Water has one contact angle, alcohol has another, and other materials and mixtures will something else. Contact angle can be looked at as how much a drop of liquid will stand up on a surface, which is a function of it's surface tension. A drop of pure water will stand quite high if placed on a hydrophobic surface, and a drop of alcohol will "spread out" and be flatter on same material generally. It's good to know that this is basically how soap works... when you add soap to water, it makes the water "wetter", and drops the surface tension, lowering the contact angle. This allows water to overcome surface tension, and sneak into the smallest pores, thus improving the ability of water (or any other solvent) to "lift" the dirt out easier and wash it away. So the porosity of a material (the stone in this case), the contact angle of the solution (determined by solution makeup), and the pressure used during testing is really just measuring the pressure required to overcome the surface tension that is holding the liquid in the pores via capillary action. There will be little bubbling (just via diffusion) that will take place until you overcome the threshold, and then an avalanche of bubbles will occur, and that is the "bubble point". This is how most filter's average pore size is determined during manufacturing, as you can solve for pore size if the other factors are known. You can find several variations of the formula online if you're curious.
@tybrewing98074 ай бұрын
A lot of great information here. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain it all! I’ve pinned your comment so others can see it as well! Cheers!
@terrysaunders82224 ай бұрын
@@tybrewing9807I may have worked in the filtration business just long enough to become boring, lol. Hope it sheds a little light on the hows and whys. Take care.
@gregmorris20225 ай бұрын
Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing. I’ve also learned the hard way about diacetyl. I have pretty much solved this by 1) making HUGE yeast starters, 2) fermenting under pressure, 3) fermenting longer than I think is necessary, usually like 2 weeks, and 4) raising the fermentation temp 5-6° to perform the mentioned diacetyl rest.
@anatolpomozov94805 ай бұрын
What is the mill gap did you use for the "just right" crush?
@tybrewing98075 ай бұрын
I believe the ideal crush for me ended up being between .040-.042”. Slightly wider than the default .039” of The Barley Crusher malt mill that I use. This is specific for my system though. I had issues with slow lauters due to too fine of a grain crush, so I sacrificed a bit of efficiency in favor of smoother/more consistent brews. Basically the intent of this video was to encourage people to ‘fuck around and find out’ in a positive way.
@paskrell5 ай бұрын
How do you get the ambient air out prior??
@tybrewing98075 ай бұрын
Generally not a concern if you primary ferment with the carb stone in the tank. You could purge the tank if you are using the Unitank as a brite tank but that’s an entire process in itself. I only have 1 Unitank currently so I haven’t delved into it. If you have a specific use case that you’re curious about just let me know and I can try to help.
@stelianmarinescu92856 ай бұрын
Se poate face decorticarea griului SPELTA cuaceasta moară ? Mulțumesc
@tybrewing98076 ай бұрын
I don’t have any experience milling Spelt but I believe you would be able to.
@RanaHamza-iv2wj9 ай бұрын
Hi Taylor I have question how you are able to produce very tiny bubbles and can we use other gases like compressed air , oxygen or nitrogen?
@tybrewing98079 ай бұрын
The tiny bubbles are caused by the carbonation stone. The stone itself has tiny perforations in it. It is intended to be used in a uniprocess fermentation vessel for brewing beer. You can run multiple types of gas through the stone, but its intended use is for CO2. You could in theory use a carbonation stone to oxygenate wort once it has been sent to a fermenter, prior to fermentation, but most people add O2 in-line while sending wort to their fermentation vessel. Hope this helps and isn’t too confusing. Let me know if you have any questions.
@RanaHamza-iv2wj9 ай бұрын
@@tybrewing9807I did the same, as you did in the picture but still I am not able to produce at tiny bubbles , I could only see the big bubbles very big bubbles, I have tried different things like pressure and flow rate but still not able to see that tiny bubbles as you are producing. Please if you could help me it could be a great favor.
@tybrewing98079 ай бұрын
@RanaHamza-iv2wj Oh, I see. I believe the difference you are noticing is because the liquid in the video contains Star San. It’s very bubbly. If not that, then maybe because I am running into the stone at a rather low pressure. It’s difficult to troubleshoot why the bubbles would be a different size but that’s my best guess.
@WilsonBarabanFilho Жыл бұрын
Hi Ty. Thanks for the video. Question: What is the best grain crush to produce more alcohol in the beer? I have the same system you have and I never reach the original gravity of more than 1.065 even with my recipe reaching 1.090.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Hey Wilson! So there could be a few different causes to your low extract problem. The first thing I would look into is your overalll mash/Lauter setup. If your efficiency is normal for standard gravity beers (1.050-ish), but you have low OE on higher gravity beers with larger grain bills then you’re probably losing efficiency due to your mash/Lauter vessel. This is normal and expected and there are a few ways to remedy this. You can either: Substitute some of your base malt for malt extract of a similar variety (ie 2-Row for DME). A good strategy is to aim for approx 1.060-1.070 from grain and make up the remainder with malt extracts. This would be my first choice. You could also consider doing a reiterated or double mash. Basically mash half of your grains (maybe leave the dark malts/adjuncts for the second mash so you don’t get any astringent or off-flavors). Just make sure you skip the mash-off step for the first mash as that will kill off your enzymes. Hope this helps and isn’t too much of a ramble. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll try to answer when I can!
@WilsonBarabanFilho Жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 I will try your two suggestions and check the results. Thank you so much for your help.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Absolutely! Let me know how it goes!
@WilsonBarabanFilho Жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 I substituted part of my grain bill for 2-Row DME and I reached 1.081 OG. Thank you for your suggestion. I guess my mash vessel is not so good for larger grain bills. I am using a BrewZilla 35L.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it! It’s a common problem. Even the big breweries use extracts/adjuncts to hit their targets ok occasion. As long as the beer is good!
@scottt7586 Жыл бұрын
When do you turn on your carbonation stone? When the beer is done fermenting, or right when you put it in the tank?
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
You would want to wait until the beer is finished fermenting and has had a chance to condition a bit. Yeast need oxygen to ferment beer so if you start with CO2 in the tank they will not be very happy. Basically as soon as the beer is done fermenting (check my video on diacetyl tests, it is a good reference on figuring out when your beer is finished) you want to cold crash it (make sure there is positive pressure on the tank so you don’t pull a vacuum). Once the beer has been at terminal temps for at least 24hrs you can start carbonating using the method shown. A safer and easier, albeit slower method is to just inject CO2 through the carb stone until you hit your required pressure (use a carbonation chart) and leave it for a week or so. Check it every day because it will lose pressure (this is normal - it means the beer is absorbing the atmospheric CO2 in the tank). Keep topping it up through the carb stone until you’re ready to package. As long as you set your pressure correctly it is impossible to overcarb your beer this way, but it could take quite a while to actually become carbonated.
@Marbaye Жыл бұрын
Hey, how long you think it takes to lower the temperature with a glycol chiller from 77f to 35-36f in a 1bbl tank ? And how long it takes to carbonate with a carb stone ?
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
It depends on a few factors but usually crashes are complete within approx 24-36hrs with a properly sized chilling system and insulation on the tank/glycol lines. Not to mention ambient temps. How quickly a beer takes carb depends on how effectively you can chill it as well. A beer that is at 33-34f will take carb much faster than a beer at even 35-36f. Just check your carb chart and get your head pressure set right. I would recommend doing things different than shown in the video nowadays if you don’t have a means of measuring carb (homebrewers don’t really have this convenience). I would just run 2-3 sets through the carb stone as shown in the video then just leave it at the pressure your carb chart recommends. If you’re packaging off the 1bbl for sale or in a way where you can’t adjust carb after it’s packaged then I would look into a Taprite brand carb checker to make sure you hit your targets. Otherwise you’d be chasing your tail a bit hoping to hit carb spec. Sorry a bit long winded but there is a lot of info to cover. Let me know if you have any more questions!
@InvisibleCitizen Жыл бұрын
The column pressure is the problem that must be contended with. For example a one inch by one inch column puts more and more downward pressure on the grain at the bottom of the column which can increase the chance of a stuck mash and can increase the chance of channeling. Since you already have your brew rig which has a column pressure you must experiment to find a grind that is less likely to stick. Of course adding rice hulls can help when throughly mixed into the mash! Many of these all in one brew pots have this same issue.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Absolutely. Thats one of the ‘features’ of brew systems like the Brewzilla and Grainfather. Rice hulls are pretty much a given for my brews these days. I don’t doubt that it’s possible to get things dialed in enough to not need them but I think it would come at the cost of efficiency. It’s not like rice hulls are terribly expensive anyway. Cheaper than malt at least! At the end of the day it’s all about figuring out what works with your system and how far you want to go down the rabbit hole. It’s all a part of the fun. Cheers!
@reggieregan8675 Жыл бұрын
The mill you have is the same one I use. What I do is set them as close as possible so grain can't go through. Than I drop in about 5 grains. Than I slowly open it until all the grains fall through. After that I turn it in about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn and set the grains back in and start sample cracking and turning it in closer until I get the consistency I personally like.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
That is a good approach. A lot of people say to go for a certain gap size and you’re set, but the truth is that malt is different between batches and brands. The best method is always the one that makes good beer for you.
@barrykeane742 Жыл бұрын
Whats the internal diameter of the hose you connected to the carb stone?
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Should be 5/16” ID, 9/16” OD. I just got a 25’ set of lines on Amazon and cut what I needed.
@barrykeane742 Жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 thanks a mill, just ordered 2 brite tanks 😍
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Nice! I was just looking at those earlier today actually. Let me know what you think of the BBT’s! Also let me know how carbonating goes on the BBT. The technique I showed in the video here is kind of niche and specific to quickly carbonating on the Uni. You should be able to just set it and forget it with the BBT rather than run bursts and purging like I showed in the video. I intend to make more videos to correct myself and expand upon this but haven’t had the time. Feel free to reach out if you have any trouble!
@barrykeane742 Жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 appreciate it, thanks for the tips. Will definitely be watching for future videos. I'll let you know how carbing goes 👍
@tonylemos4472 Жыл бұрын
I have the exact same set up. Im not getting as much carbonation as id like. When I take samples my temp is higher than expected. Have you noticed that when you set the temp its off? Maybe my glycol chiller is running into issues at lower temps. Ferm temps I see no issues.
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
You’re talking cold crash temps, right? I do have trouble getting a typical 5-6gal batch below 35-36f when cold crashing. I think it is intrinsic to the design of the cooling coil. It doesn’t have as much contact with the beer as say a jacketed tank would. I think that loss of efficiency makes it impossible to cool the beer down below a certain point. As long as your glycol chiller is hitting it’s set point and isn’t running constantly then you’re fine. You’ll see that the pump that supplies glycol to the chiller coil continuously runs if the tank isn’t at its target temp. That’s how you can tell it’s a result of the design of the cooling system.
@josearturogonzalezmorgan8188 Жыл бұрын
dude this is a cool video! I'm about to get the eBrewing kit from these guys but i don't know if i should still getting the Brite Tank from them. Should i get it?
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Personally I think it’s just as easy to just transfer to a keg and carbonate, but if money is no object and you really want to dive deep into the hobby then a Brite Tank will allow you to have even better beer going into your kegs. I rack from the Unitank into my corny kegs through the liquid out port, which works well enough but if I get any sort of hop material in there it clogs and it makes kegging a real pain. A BBT should resolve most of those headaches. Depending on how quickly you drink your beer you could even just serve off of the BBT.
@wef.rubbish4714 Жыл бұрын
This was a test where's the prevention?
@tybrewing9807 Жыл бұрын
Prevent Diacetyl in your finished beer* I guess I could edit the video title.
@innocentbystander26732 жыл бұрын
if you crush too fine...it's a pump on pump off thing and a bit of stirring. You will win the OG/FG thing if you put in the work. Do you want efficiency or a lazy brew day?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
I personally aim for consistency. If I can maximum extract while maintaining a ~1% brewhouse efficiency between batches then I call that a success. Sure you can dilute with water at/after knockout but I like to keep my hop utilization and batch size as exact as possible. Stirring and changing processes drastically increases likelihood of missing your targets. Everybody has a different philosophy though.
@rugsuckersrus2 жыл бұрын
Dude dumb and dumber. Read and learn.
@devpower2 жыл бұрын
Hi! What type of tubing are you using for your co2 line? Is it 3/8" and PVC?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Hello! The type of lines I use for my co2 are the type here: a.co/d/3qkYHik Just generic gas tubing. You can also use braided lines, etc. as well but they’re generally more expensive (they are nice to see if you’ve had backflips though). I bought 25’ of this type and cut it down for my uses (kegerator lines, co2 for Unitank, etc. Hope that helps!
@devpower2 жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 Thanks! I see this is 5/16 tubing instead of 3/8, I've been looking for 3/8 but I've seen people recommend using a smaller size for the co2 lines to avoid leaks, does the 5/16 tubing fit well on the unitank's 3/8 barb valve?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Now that you mention it. I do have two separate barbs. I have a 3/8” for a blowoff hose as well as a 1/4” for my gas line. I think I just got one from my local home brew store because I was in a hurry at the time. It’s been a couple of years now so my memory isn’t as fresh.
@bigreedinkc2 жыл бұрын
Good stuff, thanks for making this. I’ve also kept the ‘too fine’ setting as recommended by Monster Mill M3 (not their fault, they don’t know my system etc). Having some astringency problems so will give your setup a shot! I can tell just by looking that mine are set a lot more tight than yours but can you give the gap a measure with that feeler gauge?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Sorry it took me a while to get back on this! I just checked it and it looks like it's around .045" - .046".
@rubbermaiden2 жыл бұрын
But How do you Prevent? Leave more time the beer on fermenter to give time to the yeast consume all vdk?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Best practice is to let your beer start around the recommended temp range (i.e. 67-68 for WLP001), then after once fermentation starts to slow (approx 72hrs), allow the beer to free rise a few degrees. That’ll allow the yeast to finish strong and accelerate the process of cleaning up any VDK/potential diacetyl. This is different for lagers and there is a bit of debate on process but the general premise is the same across most yeast strains/beers. Once your beer passes the VDK test you can go forward with dry hopping, cold crashing, etc. and then package without the concern of diacetyl developing.
@s.venkateswarpatnaik24842 жыл бұрын
My Request to your company to supply such Machinery to my place Bhubaneswar city in Odisha state in India
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Hi! To be honest I’m just a guy that makes beer in his basement. I do work at a brewery but everything I do on this channel is my own work, knowledge, etc (for better or for worse). Perhaps you could reach out to one of the big manufacturers to see if they can ship to your locale!
@joshuapinter2 жыл бұрын
Okay, been brewing for a couple years now and I've always been concerned with diacetyl but I can't say that I have ever tasted it. I've definitely had off flavours, more like alcohol / nail-polish remover type, or extreme bitterness in more hoppy beers. But I really don't know what diacetyl tastes like. Since you seem to perhaps have an acute awareness of it, is there something I can do or taste that is as close to what it would taste like in finished beer? You mentioned butter or rotten butter but is there something even closer that I can taste and use for comparison. Thanks!
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Honestly, it’s a hard flavor to describe. Rotten butter is probably the best description of it in both flavor and aroma. It has a sort of sweaty/musty thing to it. Some people have a very high flavor threshold for diacetyl, meaning you need a very large amount of it in your beer to be able to even taste/smell it. Whereas other people notice the smallest bit of it. Your best bet is to look into a beer off flavors kit if you want to get into it. It’s very helpful in training your palate but they can be pricey for the good ones (hundreds of dollars).
@joshuapinter2 ай бұрын
Coming back after a while but wanted to say thanks for this. Our home brew club is going to get an off flavour kit. And i’m trying this forced VDK test for the first time today. Cheers!
@jimbaulsir88382 жыл бұрын
First stone should be in the same orientation as it will be in the tank, second head (hydrostatic) pressure has nothing to do with quantity of beer it’s how far the stone is submerged 1psi per approx. 28 inches and third don’t control the flow of co2 with a regulator, get a flow meter with a valve. Wetting Pressure + Head Pressure + desired Equilibrium PSI = Carbonation Pressure
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this comment. I had intended to expand upon (and correct) the information in this video when I uploaded my video on how to carbonate beer using a carb stone but I missed the mark. I’ve pinned your comment so people can use it as reference. Definitely important info, especially when scaling up to commercial scale
@homebrewingtips60292 жыл бұрын
I give this video an A+. 1) Important topic. 2) clear and concise 3) nice quality all the way around. I'll be looking for more of your stuff! -DT
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot! I wish I had known about this technique a couple of years ago. Would have saved me a lot of trouble and bad beer!
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Hey everybody! I just realized a small detail I forgot to point out in the video. It is a good idea to cover the samples with something to make them slightly airtight while they are resting so that when you go to check them any potential diacetyl is more present and hasn’t volatilized. If you forget to do this, it isn’t the end of the world (if you are sensitive to diacetyl you will notice it regardless), but it’s always a good idea to cover your samples up. Cheers!
@alecortiz46172 жыл бұрын
Wetting pressure depends on hidrostatic pressure so what you calculated there is 1psi/4qt 0.25 psi per qt of water/beer so if you want the psi needed to get the stone working on a 5gallon fermenter you just multiply that
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this! I knew there was an equation involved in the process but I forgot to include it in the video. Definitely an important detail! We typically just run carb sets and then check with a TapRite/Zahm gauge but this is crucial if you want to just set it and forget it or don’t have access to that sort of equipment.
@azerbouf2 жыл бұрын
I have a few questions: how long you should do a diacetyl rest? And what happens with Ale that fermented at 68f?
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
You can start testing your beer for diacetyl using the method shown in the video as early as a couple of days into fermentation (some strains are faster/slower than others). If you test your beer for diacetyl and it fails, give it another day at diacetyl rest temps (this is yeast strain dependent but usually high 60’s) and then test it again. If I fermented a beer around 66-68f then I typically will not raise the temp or anything, I just give it more time at those temps. A proper diacetyl rest involving raising temps, etc. is best left for more traditional lagers or hybrid beers. Once the beer passes the VDK/diacetyl test you can proceed with dry hopping, cold crashing, etc.
@azerbouf2 жыл бұрын
@@tybrewing9807 Wow! Thank you very much for this explanation. Very helpful! Will try it out
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
@@azerbouf No problem! Let me know how it works for you!
@azerbouf2 жыл бұрын
So weird that nobody talk much about grain crush, but as you probably mentioned, this is the most important part of the brew =) Great video. Btw, I found your channel very helpful! Subscribed =)
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much!
@standelaat50282 жыл бұрын
You’re a real life saver! Me and my friend own one of those and we were always struggling with this issue, thanks a lot!
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
That’s awesome! I’m happy I was able to help!
@noiseterrorcodes2 жыл бұрын
cool video
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@irrlicht69972 жыл бұрын
Well explained 👏 there's quite a few videos out there with diacetyl tests and this one was just as good. I have a lot of problems on and off with an off flavour which I'm beginning to think is diacetyl.
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I had hoped my explanation made sense. It’s always hard to tell how things will be received. Diacetyl, in my opinion, is the most common off-flavor in homebrewed beer. If there is an obvious off-flavor that you are noticing but can’t put your finger on it, a safe bet would be diacetyl. Definitely try this trick next time and see if it works for you. Either way, I would love to hear your results!
@michaeljames35092 жыл бұрын
The first thing to consider before crushing malt is knowing if the malt being crushed is capable of producing ale and lager. There are two types of malt on the market, high modified, high protein, malt, and under modified, low protein, malt, one is better for making whiskey, and one makes ale and lager. High modified, high protein, malt is used in grain distillation with the single temperature infusion method, which produces moonshiners beer. Under modified, low protein, malt is used for producing ale and lager. Under modified, malt is richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt, and low protein, malt contains more starch/sugar. To know the difference between the malts, a malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, they are online from every malthouse. Level of malt modification (Kolbach), protein content, and a few other chemical acronyms and numbers are listed, which a brewer uses for determining the quality of malt, before purchasing malt. A recipe that doesn't list the malthouse is invalid because a malt spec sheet cannot be obtained. There is hard, heat resistant, complex starch in malt, called amylopectin, it makes up the tips of malt, and it is the richest starch. The starch contains the ingredients that provides body and mouthfeel in ale, which are limit dextrin and pectin. The problem with the home brew method is that the temperatures aren't high enough to burst the heat resistant starch, where it would enter into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures, and the starch is thrown away with the spent mash, paid for. To take advantage of amylopectin, the triple decoction and Hochkurz brewing methods are used, where mash is boiled a few times. When mash boils, amylopectin rapidly bursts and enters into the mash liquid. The boiling mash is added back into the main mash resting at a low temperature to preserve enzymes, mash temperature increases, and Alpha liquefies the starch causing dextrinization and gelatinization to occur. The finest ales and lagers are produced from dextrinous extract. In home made beer, starch carry over, Beta Glucan, and protein sludge provides body and mouthfeel. In the single temperature infusion method, temperatures are too, high, and low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager rapidly denature, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion which occurs around 140 to 145F. During conversion, Beta turns simple sugar, glucose, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose are the sugars that produce ale and lager, glucose makes the alcohol. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place due to maltose. Maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed to carbonate ale. STAY PARCHED. STAY TERRIBLY PARCHED.
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Looks like I have homework to do. Hahaha I really appreciate you taking the time to share such detailed info. I will absolutely be sure to reference this before I even consider mashing in again.
@StoneyardVineyards2 жыл бұрын
Cheers to awesome beer that’s why we home brew our own on our channel . We just subscribed to your channel after your video found us . We love growing hops making mead and wines and others . Stay thirsty and brew good beer.
@tybrewing98072 жыл бұрын
Thanks for stopping by and for subscribing! Cheers!
Пікірлер
Hello. Thanks for the video. Can you please specify how many millimeters you adjusted the rollers to? On my mill it says on the side, on the adjustment wheels: 0.5 or 0.3 mm. Thank you in advance.
Hey, no worries at all. I believe the factory setting was .039”, but I adjusted mine closer to .042”. This resulted in a slight loss of brewhouse efficiency in favor of more consistent lauters. My brewing system is notorious for having tricky lauters though, I would definitely recommend experimenting/keeping detailed brew logs and see what works best for your particular setup.
Did you mean a rancid taste, like rancid oil?
Diacetyl is said to have a taste and aroma of rancid butter when present in beer. While everybody’s perception of it is a little different, that is one of the more agreed upon descriptions. It also tends to give beer an oily mouthfeel. Some people say it gives a ‘slickness’ to the beer, but I’ve found that it just makes it seem kind of dull and savory in an off-putting way. Hope this helps!
@@tybrewing9807 this explains some of my old memories while living in an communist country we would find once in a while a beer bottle with that rancid oily taste that was disgusting. We thought at the time that they were using bottles that used to store cooking oil before. The half liter bottles, green or brown, were also used to store cooking oil and we thought they were not washed properly before filled with beer. The recycle program was collecting them together so the scenario was believable.
"Wetting Pressure" is sort of a misnomer, you are actually determining what's called "bubble point". Bubble point is driven by several factors. The contact angle of the liquid is influenced by what the solution makeup is. Water has one contact angle, alcohol has another, and other materials and mixtures will something else. Contact angle can be looked at as how much a drop of liquid will stand up on a surface, which is a function of it's surface tension. A drop of pure water will stand quite high if placed on a hydrophobic surface, and a drop of alcohol will "spread out" and be flatter on same material generally. It's good to know that this is basically how soap works... when you add soap to water, it makes the water "wetter", and drops the surface tension, lowering the contact angle. This allows water to overcome surface tension, and sneak into the smallest pores, thus improving the ability of water (or any other solvent) to "lift" the dirt out easier and wash it away. So the porosity of a material (the stone in this case), the contact angle of the solution (determined by solution makeup), and the pressure used during testing is really just measuring the pressure required to overcome the surface tension that is holding the liquid in the pores via capillary action. There will be little bubbling (just via diffusion) that will take place until you overcome the threshold, and then an avalanche of bubbles will occur, and that is the "bubble point". This is how most filter's average pore size is determined during manufacturing, as you can solve for pore size if the other factors are known. You can find several variations of the formula online if you're curious.
A lot of great information here. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain it all! I’ve pinned your comment so others can see it as well! Cheers!
@@tybrewing9807I may have worked in the filtration business just long enough to become boring, lol. Hope it sheds a little light on the hows and whys. Take care.
Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing. I’ve also learned the hard way about diacetyl. I have pretty much solved this by 1) making HUGE yeast starters, 2) fermenting under pressure, 3) fermenting longer than I think is necessary, usually like 2 weeks, and 4) raising the fermentation temp 5-6° to perform the mentioned diacetyl rest.
What is the mill gap did you use for the "just right" crush?
I believe the ideal crush for me ended up being between .040-.042”. Slightly wider than the default .039” of The Barley Crusher malt mill that I use. This is specific for my system though. I had issues with slow lauters due to too fine of a grain crush, so I sacrificed a bit of efficiency in favor of smoother/more consistent brews. Basically the intent of this video was to encourage people to ‘fuck around and find out’ in a positive way.
How do you get the ambient air out prior??
Generally not a concern if you primary ferment with the carb stone in the tank. You could purge the tank if you are using the Unitank as a brite tank but that’s an entire process in itself. I only have 1 Unitank currently so I haven’t delved into it. If you have a specific use case that you’re curious about just let me know and I can try to help.
Se poate face decorticarea griului SPELTA cuaceasta moară ? Mulțumesc
I don’t have any experience milling Spelt but I believe you would be able to.
Hi Taylor I have question how you are able to produce very tiny bubbles and can we use other gases like compressed air , oxygen or nitrogen?
The tiny bubbles are caused by the carbonation stone. The stone itself has tiny perforations in it. It is intended to be used in a uniprocess fermentation vessel for brewing beer. You can run multiple types of gas through the stone, but its intended use is for CO2. You could in theory use a carbonation stone to oxygenate wort once it has been sent to a fermenter, prior to fermentation, but most people add O2 in-line while sending wort to their fermentation vessel. Hope this helps and isn’t too confusing. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@tybrewing9807I did the same, as you did in the picture but still I am not able to produce at tiny bubbles , I could only see the big bubbles very big bubbles, I have tried different things like pressure and flow rate but still not able to see that tiny bubbles as you are producing. Please if you could help me it could be a great favor.
@RanaHamza-iv2wj Oh, I see. I believe the difference you are noticing is because the liquid in the video contains Star San. It’s very bubbly. If not that, then maybe because I am running into the stone at a rather low pressure. It’s difficult to troubleshoot why the bubbles would be a different size but that’s my best guess.
Hi Ty. Thanks for the video. Question: What is the best grain crush to produce more alcohol in the beer? I have the same system you have and I never reach the original gravity of more than 1.065 even with my recipe reaching 1.090.
Hey Wilson! So there could be a few different causes to your low extract problem. The first thing I would look into is your overalll mash/Lauter setup. If your efficiency is normal for standard gravity beers (1.050-ish), but you have low OE on higher gravity beers with larger grain bills then you’re probably losing efficiency due to your mash/Lauter vessel. This is normal and expected and there are a few ways to remedy this. You can either: Substitute some of your base malt for malt extract of a similar variety (ie 2-Row for DME). A good strategy is to aim for approx 1.060-1.070 from grain and make up the remainder with malt extracts. This would be my first choice. You could also consider doing a reiterated or double mash. Basically mash half of your grains (maybe leave the dark malts/adjuncts for the second mash so you don’t get any astringent or off-flavors). Just make sure you skip the mash-off step for the first mash as that will kill off your enzymes. Hope this helps and isn’t too much of a ramble. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll try to answer when I can!
@@tybrewing9807 I will try your two suggestions and check the results. Thank you so much for your help.
Absolutely! Let me know how it goes!
@@tybrewing9807 I substituted part of my grain bill for 2-Row DME and I reached 1.081 OG. Thank you for your suggestion. I guess my mash vessel is not so good for larger grain bills. I am using a BrewZilla 35L.
Glad to hear it! It’s a common problem. Even the big breweries use extracts/adjuncts to hit their targets ok occasion. As long as the beer is good!
When do you turn on your carbonation stone? When the beer is done fermenting, or right when you put it in the tank?
You would want to wait until the beer is finished fermenting and has had a chance to condition a bit. Yeast need oxygen to ferment beer so if you start with CO2 in the tank they will not be very happy. Basically as soon as the beer is done fermenting (check my video on diacetyl tests, it is a good reference on figuring out when your beer is finished) you want to cold crash it (make sure there is positive pressure on the tank so you don’t pull a vacuum). Once the beer has been at terminal temps for at least 24hrs you can start carbonating using the method shown. A safer and easier, albeit slower method is to just inject CO2 through the carb stone until you hit your required pressure (use a carbonation chart) and leave it for a week or so. Check it every day because it will lose pressure (this is normal - it means the beer is absorbing the atmospheric CO2 in the tank). Keep topping it up through the carb stone until you’re ready to package. As long as you set your pressure correctly it is impossible to overcarb your beer this way, but it could take quite a while to actually become carbonated.
Hey, how long you think it takes to lower the temperature with a glycol chiller from 77f to 35-36f in a 1bbl tank ? And how long it takes to carbonate with a carb stone ?
It depends on a few factors but usually crashes are complete within approx 24-36hrs with a properly sized chilling system and insulation on the tank/glycol lines. Not to mention ambient temps. How quickly a beer takes carb depends on how effectively you can chill it as well. A beer that is at 33-34f will take carb much faster than a beer at even 35-36f. Just check your carb chart and get your head pressure set right. I would recommend doing things different than shown in the video nowadays if you don’t have a means of measuring carb (homebrewers don’t really have this convenience). I would just run 2-3 sets through the carb stone as shown in the video then just leave it at the pressure your carb chart recommends. If you’re packaging off the 1bbl for sale or in a way where you can’t adjust carb after it’s packaged then I would look into a Taprite brand carb checker to make sure you hit your targets. Otherwise you’d be chasing your tail a bit hoping to hit carb spec. Sorry a bit long winded but there is a lot of info to cover. Let me know if you have any more questions!
The column pressure is the problem that must be contended with. For example a one inch by one inch column puts more and more downward pressure on the grain at the bottom of the column which can increase the chance of a stuck mash and can increase the chance of channeling. Since you already have your brew rig which has a column pressure you must experiment to find a grind that is less likely to stick. Of course adding rice hulls can help when throughly mixed into the mash! Many of these all in one brew pots have this same issue.
Absolutely. Thats one of the ‘features’ of brew systems like the Brewzilla and Grainfather. Rice hulls are pretty much a given for my brews these days. I don’t doubt that it’s possible to get things dialed in enough to not need them but I think it would come at the cost of efficiency. It’s not like rice hulls are terribly expensive anyway. Cheaper than malt at least! At the end of the day it’s all about figuring out what works with your system and how far you want to go down the rabbit hole. It’s all a part of the fun. Cheers!
The mill you have is the same one I use. What I do is set them as close as possible so grain can't go through. Than I drop in about 5 grains. Than I slowly open it until all the grains fall through. After that I turn it in about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn and set the grains back in and start sample cracking and turning it in closer until I get the consistency I personally like.
That is a good approach. A lot of people say to go for a certain gap size and you’re set, but the truth is that malt is different between batches and brands. The best method is always the one that makes good beer for you.
Whats the internal diameter of the hose you connected to the carb stone?
Should be 5/16” ID, 9/16” OD. I just got a 25’ set of lines on Amazon and cut what I needed.
@@tybrewing9807 thanks a mill, just ordered 2 brite tanks 😍
Nice! I was just looking at those earlier today actually. Let me know what you think of the BBT’s! Also let me know how carbonating goes on the BBT. The technique I showed in the video here is kind of niche and specific to quickly carbonating on the Uni. You should be able to just set it and forget it with the BBT rather than run bursts and purging like I showed in the video. I intend to make more videos to correct myself and expand upon this but haven’t had the time. Feel free to reach out if you have any trouble!
@@tybrewing9807 appreciate it, thanks for the tips. Will definitely be watching for future videos. I'll let you know how carbing goes 👍
I have the exact same set up. Im not getting as much carbonation as id like. When I take samples my temp is higher than expected. Have you noticed that when you set the temp its off? Maybe my glycol chiller is running into issues at lower temps. Ferm temps I see no issues.
You’re talking cold crash temps, right? I do have trouble getting a typical 5-6gal batch below 35-36f when cold crashing. I think it is intrinsic to the design of the cooling coil. It doesn’t have as much contact with the beer as say a jacketed tank would. I think that loss of efficiency makes it impossible to cool the beer down below a certain point. As long as your glycol chiller is hitting it’s set point and isn’t running constantly then you’re fine. You’ll see that the pump that supplies glycol to the chiller coil continuously runs if the tank isn’t at its target temp. That’s how you can tell it’s a result of the design of the cooling system.
dude this is a cool video! I'm about to get the eBrewing kit from these guys but i don't know if i should still getting the Brite Tank from them. Should i get it?
Personally I think it’s just as easy to just transfer to a keg and carbonate, but if money is no object and you really want to dive deep into the hobby then a Brite Tank will allow you to have even better beer going into your kegs. I rack from the Unitank into my corny kegs through the liquid out port, which works well enough but if I get any sort of hop material in there it clogs and it makes kegging a real pain. A BBT should resolve most of those headaches. Depending on how quickly you drink your beer you could even just serve off of the BBT.
This was a test where's the prevention?
Prevent Diacetyl in your finished beer* I guess I could edit the video title.
if you crush too fine...it's a pump on pump off thing and a bit of stirring. You will win the OG/FG thing if you put in the work. Do you want efficiency or a lazy brew day?
I personally aim for consistency. If I can maximum extract while maintaining a ~1% brewhouse efficiency between batches then I call that a success. Sure you can dilute with water at/after knockout but I like to keep my hop utilization and batch size as exact as possible. Stirring and changing processes drastically increases likelihood of missing your targets. Everybody has a different philosophy though.
Dude dumb and dumber. Read and learn.
Hi! What type of tubing are you using for your co2 line? Is it 3/8" and PVC?
Hello! The type of lines I use for my co2 are the type here: a.co/d/3qkYHik Just generic gas tubing. You can also use braided lines, etc. as well but they’re generally more expensive (they are nice to see if you’ve had backflips though). I bought 25’ of this type and cut it down for my uses (kegerator lines, co2 for Unitank, etc. Hope that helps!
@@tybrewing9807 Thanks! I see this is 5/16 tubing instead of 3/8, I've been looking for 3/8 but I've seen people recommend using a smaller size for the co2 lines to avoid leaks, does the 5/16 tubing fit well on the unitank's 3/8 barb valve?
Now that you mention it. I do have two separate barbs. I have a 3/8” for a blowoff hose as well as a 1/4” for my gas line. I think I just got one from my local home brew store because I was in a hurry at the time. It’s been a couple of years now so my memory isn’t as fresh.
Good stuff, thanks for making this. I’ve also kept the ‘too fine’ setting as recommended by Monster Mill M3 (not their fault, they don’t know my system etc). Having some astringency problems so will give your setup a shot! I can tell just by looking that mine are set a lot more tight than yours but can you give the gap a measure with that feeler gauge?
Sorry it took me a while to get back on this! I just checked it and it looks like it's around .045" - .046".
But How do you Prevent? Leave more time the beer on fermenter to give time to the yeast consume all vdk?
Best practice is to let your beer start around the recommended temp range (i.e. 67-68 for WLP001), then after once fermentation starts to slow (approx 72hrs), allow the beer to free rise a few degrees. That’ll allow the yeast to finish strong and accelerate the process of cleaning up any VDK/potential diacetyl. This is different for lagers and there is a bit of debate on process but the general premise is the same across most yeast strains/beers. Once your beer passes the VDK test you can go forward with dry hopping, cold crashing, etc. and then package without the concern of diacetyl developing.
My Request to your company to supply such Machinery to my place Bhubaneswar city in Odisha state in India
Hi! To be honest I’m just a guy that makes beer in his basement. I do work at a brewery but everything I do on this channel is my own work, knowledge, etc (for better or for worse). Perhaps you could reach out to one of the big manufacturers to see if they can ship to your locale!
Okay, been brewing for a couple years now and I've always been concerned with diacetyl but I can't say that I have ever tasted it. I've definitely had off flavours, more like alcohol / nail-polish remover type, or extreme bitterness in more hoppy beers. But I really don't know what diacetyl tastes like. Since you seem to perhaps have an acute awareness of it, is there something I can do or taste that is as close to what it would taste like in finished beer? You mentioned butter or rotten butter but is there something even closer that I can taste and use for comparison. Thanks!
Honestly, it’s a hard flavor to describe. Rotten butter is probably the best description of it in both flavor and aroma. It has a sort of sweaty/musty thing to it. Some people have a very high flavor threshold for diacetyl, meaning you need a very large amount of it in your beer to be able to even taste/smell it. Whereas other people notice the smallest bit of it. Your best bet is to look into a beer off flavors kit if you want to get into it. It’s very helpful in training your palate but they can be pricey for the good ones (hundreds of dollars).
Coming back after a while but wanted to say thanks for this. Our home brew club is going to get an off flavour kit. And i’m trying this forced VDK test for the first time today. Cheers!
First stone should be in the same orientation as it will be in the tank, second head (hydrostatic) pressure has nothing to do with quantity of beer it’s how far the stone is submerged 1psi per approx. 28 inches and third don’t control the flow of co2 with a regulator, get a flow meter with a valve. Wetting Pressure + Head Pressure + desired Equilibrium PSI = Carbonation Pressure
Thank you for this comment. I had intended to expand upon (and correct) the information in this video when I uploaded my video on how to carbonate beer using a carb stone but I missed the mark. I’ve pinned your comment so people can use it as reference. Definitely important info, especially when scaling up to commercial scale
I give this video an A+. 1) Important topic. 2) clear and concise 3) nice quality all the way around. I'll be looking for more of your stuff! -DT
Thanks a lot! I wish I had known about this technique a couple of years ago. Would have saved me a lot of trouble and bad beer!
Hey everybody! I just realized a small detail I forgot to point out in the video. It is a good idea to cover the samples with something to make them slightly airtight while they are resting so that when you go to check them any potential diacetyl is more present and hasn’t volatilized. If you forget to do this, it isn’t the end of the world (if you are sensitive to diacetyl you will notice it regardless), but it’s always a good idea to cover your samples up. Cheers!
Wetting pressure depends on hidrostatic pressure so what you calculated there is 1psi/4qt 0.25 psi per qt of water/beer so if you want the psi needed to get the stone working on a 5gallon fermenter you just multiply that
Thank you for this! I knew there was an equation involved in the process but I forgot to include it in the video. Definitely an important detail! We typically just run carb sets and then check with a TapRite/Zahm gauge but this is crucial if you want to just set it and forget it or don’t have access to that sort of equipment.
I have a few questions: how long you should do a diacetyl rest? And what happens with Ale that fermented at 68f?
You can start testing your beer for diacetyl using the method shown in the video as early as a couple of days into fermentation (some strains are faster/slower than others). If you test your beer for diacetyl and it fails, give it another day at diacetyl rest temps (this is yeast strain dependent but usually high 60’s) and then test it again. If I fermented a beer around 66-68f then I typically will not raise the temp or anything, I just give it more time at those temps. A proper diacetyl rest involving raising temps, etc. is best left for more traditional lagers or hybrid beers. Once the beer passes the VDK/diacetyl test you can proceed with dry hopping, cold crashing, etc.
@@tybrewing9807 Wow! Thank you very much for this explanation. Very helpful! Will try it out
@@azerbouf No problem! Let me know how it works for you!
So weird that nobody talk much about grain crush, but as you probably mentioned, this is the most important part of the brew =) Great video. Btw, I found your channel very helpful! Subscribed =)
Thank you very much!
You’re a real life saver! Me and my friend own one of those and we were always struggling with this issue, thanks a lot!
That’s awesome! I’m happy I was able to help!
cool video
Thanks!
Well explained 👏 there's quite a few videos out there with diacetyl tests and this one was just as good. I have a lot of problems on and off with an off flavour which I'm beginning to think is diacetyl.
Thank you! I had hoped my explanation made sense. It’s always hard to tell how things will be received. Diacetyl, in my opinion, is the most common off-flavor in homebrewed beer. If there is an obvious off-flavor that you are noticing but can’t put your finger on it, a safe bet would be diacetyl. Definitely try this trick next time and see if it works for you. Either way, I would love to hear your results!
The first thing to consider before crushing malt is knowing if the malt being crushed is capable of producing ale and lager. There are two types of malt on the market, high modified, high protein, malt, and under modified, low protein, malt, one is better for making whiskey, and one makes ale and lager. High modified, high protein, malt is used in grain distillation with the single temperature infusion method, which produces moonshiners beer. Under modified, low protein, malt is used for producing ale and lager. Under modified, malt is richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt, and low protein, malt contains more starch/sugar. To know the difference between the malts, a malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, they are online from every malthouse. Level of malt modification (Kolbach), protein content, and a few other chemical acronyms and numbers are listed, which a brewer uses for determining the quality of malt, before purchasing malt. A recipe that doesn't list the malthouse is invalid because a malt spec sheet cannot be obtained. There is hard, heat resistant, complex starch in malt, called amylopectin, it makes up the tips of malt, and it is the richest starch. The starch contains the ingredients that provides body and mouthfeel in ale, which are limit dextrin and pectin. The problem with the home brew method is that the temperatures aren't high enough to burst the heat resistant starch, where it would enter into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures, and the starch is thrown away with the spent mash, paid for. To take advantage of amylopectin, the triple decoction and Hochkurz brewing methods are used, where mash is boiled a few times. When mash boils, amylopectin rapidly bursts and enters into the mash liquid. The boiling mash is added back into the main mash resting at a low temperature to preserve enzymes, mash temperature increases, and Alpha liquefies the starch causing dextrinization and gelatinization to occur. The finest ales and lagers are produced from dextrinous extract. In home made beer, starch carry over, Beta Glucan, and protein sludge provides body and mouthfeel. In the single temperature infusion method, temperatures are too, high, and low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager rapidly denature, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion which occurs around 140 to 145F. During conversion, Beta turns simple sugar, glucose, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose are the sugars that produce ale and lager, glucose makes the alcohol. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place due to maltose. Maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed to carbonate ale. STAY PARCHED. STAY TERRIBLY PARCHED.
Looks like I have homework to do. Hahaha I really appreciate you taking the time to share such detailed info. I will absolutely be sure to reference this before I even consider mashing in again.
Cheers to awesome beer that’s why we home brew our own on our channel . We just subscribed to your channel after your video found us . We love growing hops making mead and wines and others . Stay thirsty and brew good beer.
Thanks for stopping by and for subscribing! Cheers!