In November of 2021 I uploaded my first video of me removing the rear main seal on my 1987 Mercedes-Benz 560SL. I started this channel because a friend of mine said I should share how I change the rear main seal with KZread. That rear main seal turned into a complete engine rebuild.
I am documenting every part of this vehicle as I put it back together in great detail. The idea is to end up with the best documented M117 560SL rebuilds on the Internet.
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A great video mike
As much as you have put yourself into this Mercedes, you deserve to enjoy hearing it start up and drive it. I concur with your decision to send it off to those who daily repair and adjust CIS fuel distributors. This is a highly specialized task and even though you eventually would have gotten it straightened out you don't need to develop that skill for a once in a lifetime task. Good luck Tony.
@@cwmoser thanks Carl. I’m happy to take a break with this heat. I did consider rebuilding it myself for the channel content, but then it didn’t make sense the more I thought about it.
I'm currently working on my r107 560 sl exhaust. Thank you!
What camera are you using for this video? Exhaust: How difficult were the flange bolts and how did you reach them? Other than that, this car looks so clean as if it had no miles on it! No corrasion anywhere or even usual dust on the suspension components. I really enjoyed your calm and patient demeaner....
@@paullyczek9358 I have several cameras. The opening dialogue I am using a Canon EOS M50 Mark II with 24-70mm F/2.8L. But all the other video is shot with inexpensive 20year old Sony camcorders I purchased on eBay. I use a Blackmagic Atem Mini for the video switching.
I agree with the previous comments regarding the decision of sending the distributor, best thing 👍. I'm sure you could have done it still those guys have the correct equipment so once done dial in , it will be bang on. Btw could you share the ball park figure for the rebuild ? Thank you.
@@danricci6996 thank you Dan. I will do a follow up video and will include the invoice and total cost. I was quoted $605 for the rebuild and $25 for the EHA calibration plus shipping.
This was the right choice...it's a few hundred more than doing it yourself but without the rig they have, you'll never get it right...
@@trevorchilders479 thank you Trevor. That’s what I figured. The first thing I will measure when I get it back is the control nut depth to see what they set it to. I have a video mod when I set it. I will be making a follow up video showing the before and after of course.
@@TonyLiveTV it’s got me thinking I should send mine in as well. Not quite as hot as where you are but too hot for driving after 10 am here. :-)
Good idea to send your FD to CIS Flowtech. They are amazing and do great work. Too bad this is probably the ONE part on the engine that you didn’t re-do during your rebuild process. Also, just have them put a new EHA on for the calibration process, and keep your old one as a spare.
@@gerryvanzandt7894 thanks Gerry. I do have an extra EHA and an extra idle control valve. The real reason I didn’t rebuild the FD earlier is because I ran out of money and I knew I could replace/repair the FD easily at any time so this is where I skimped (stupid me). After shipping it will still cost around $700, but the peace of mind it will bring is priceless.
@@TonyLiveTV I have never seen a "used" EHA valve (pulled off a car, wrecking yard, etc.) NOT be leaky, lol. In 22 years of owning my 560SEC, I think it is on its third EHA. I have never had to rebuild the fuel distributor. Some years back I was able to get my hands on an original Bosch duty cycle meter, which plugs into the round black connector on the driver's side inner fender. Of course you can check duty cycle with a multimeter that is duty-cycle-capable, but it's very jumpy when measuring it digitally. The Bosch test box works wonderfully for this specific test. CIS unfortunately suffers from a major lack of knowledge among owners and enthusiasts, as well as mechanics nowadays. It has a bad rap as being a bad system, but honestly I think it's one of the very best systems that Bosch created. K and KE-Jet will ALWAYS get you home even if a major component fails, such as the KE computer. K-Jet has no computer to fail. And you are 100% correct, the WORST and LAST thing that you want to do is to mess around with that idle mixture screw. There is a HUGE reason that they put a ball bearing in there from the factory !! I do have an EHA adjustment tutorial on my 126board forum site, and it is one of the most read/downloaded threads on that site over the years. Most people don't even know that the EHA is adjustable !!! Anyway, looking forward to you getting this nailed and for the "real" startup live !!
Your patience and process is admirable. Many (probably me included) would’ve started with starting fluid, or turned screws unnecessarily. Hang in there!
My car SL560 1987
Tony i need to replace fan clutch brand URO - BOSCH AL69X Remanufactured Alternator - water pump from meyle what do you think about these companies
@@MariaQueenGames I am not a fan of URO products. The only time I buy URO is when nothing else is available. I have purchased Meyle products and have had good luck. I have a video where I replaced the auxiliary fan with Meyle. The water pump I purchased was a Graf (perfect fit) which came with a lifetime warranty from FCPEuro. I have a video of that as well. Bosch is always a welcome. Many of the original parts are Bosch.
Great video ! One quick comment: shouldn't dismiss the "use a starter fluid" method, it's the fastest and easiest way to find out if the non-starting problem is electrical or fuel .
@@danricci6996 the problem in this case was very easy to diagnose. If you were to watch the livestream of the first start you can easily see that the engine was starving for fuel. And because everything was replaced in the fuel system except the fuel distributor, it didn’t make sense for me to throw starter fluid down the plenum. The best thing you can do is what I did and that is to investigate why. I am in no hurry. I personally will never force an engine to run. You are always better off investigating before forcing. What I did wrong here was not checking fuel flow first.
Hi Tony. I have a 560 and a 380. When I got the 380 the previous owner couldn't get it to start and the idle air screw assy was removed so I had to start from scratch. Before you rebuild the fuel distributor. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZoN-zaSaotiwh5M.html is a reference to get the idle air screw to a baseline so you can get the car started. Your go live it sputtered, but your mix is off and I'm guessing very lean. If you follow his instructions you will get it to a point where it will start then you can adjust the screw to where it idles smoothly. Yes you can do a lambda test, but I've had 5 R107's and eventually you can tune them by feel. PS I've rebuilt 3 R107 fuel distributors. It helps them, but I've experienced a break in period of about six months unless you start messing with individual metering which is a PITA; that being the case you're best buying a rebuilt one (Australia has some good shops) and sending them your core. But if you just want to get it running and see if it smooths out (I think it will), that video is a good reference. Following those instructions I had a 10 year neglected 380 running and idling smooth in 15 minutes. Then I Facetimed the previous owner. :)
@@matthewstephenbrown This video I discussed in detail here. I have been working with Ivica (Fix Your Mercedes) on this issue. I mention his video as well as Pierre and Mercedes R107’s videos on setting this up. They all do this differently as discussed in my video. I included links to these videos in the comments area if you are interested. My fuel distributor needs rebuild for sure. I was unable to get fuel to flow out of 4 ports. I even plugged 7 ports with plugs and tried to get one of the plugged ports to flow and had no success. It doesn’t make sense for me to have a rebuilt engine and new fuel pumps and strainer with a fuel distributor that has been sitting for 16 years. Once it is rebuilt I will fine tune everything via duty cycle. When I’m done it will be perfect.
Experienced the same thing with my 1989 560SL/M117 after draining all the gas when replacing most of the fuel system. When the system got the necessary pressure, the engine started and ran like new. Air was the cause and I forced the engine to run in short sequences with starting gas. Your problem may lie elsewhere and it will be interesting to see what you find out here. Good luck in the process!
@@runearctander5878 I played with the fuel distributor after the video and I was unable to get fuel to flow out of those other four ports. I have been thinking that it may not be worth my time to rebuild the fuel distributor. Instead I am considering having CIS Flowtech, LLC do the job. They are a highly respected family business and are well know in the Mercedes, Porsche and Ferrari communities.
Welcome back Tony. Good diagnosis. Great to see you back. MH
When you mentioned long ago that you were not rebuilding the fuel distributer, I thought that was a mistake. Don’t rebuild the distributor yourself unless you can test bench flow. To fine tune your car, you will need to adjust duty cycle when you get to that point.
@@MrBobby3340 I haven’t decided if I will rebuild the fuel distributor myself or not. If I do, I will certainly flow test. I have the tools for that and the tools needed to adjust the duty cycle as well. Having someone else rebuild it seems like hit or miss from what I’m hearing. I am not afraid of rebuilding the fuel distributor. I just don’t want to.
@@TonyLiveTV I had mine rebuilt from an older gentleman that has a shop that specializes in rebuilding JetTronic systems. He is in Australia. Was recommended to me by Ken at Mercedes Source. Perfect rebuild. Reasonable as well. Try finding spare parts for the distributor - you can’t for the most part. This guy has inventory.
@@MrBobby3340 I’m listening MrBobby. How do I contact him?
@@TonyLiveTV Info Sent.
@@MrBobby3340 Only a few can contact the guy ? 🤔
🎉 extremely helpful.Thank you very much for the great video, keep up the good work
Congrats Tony! I would test the fuel volume that comes out at every injector 😮
@@ionutboruga6015 Thanks! I may get to that point. Right now I’m testing the fuel distributor’s sensor plate position and deflection clearance per the manual. If it ever cools down I will continue with testing the fuel delivery from the fuel line to the top of the fuel distributor for all 8 injectors. I will test to make sure the distributor does not flow fuel when at rest and that it delivers fuel when the plunger is depressed. I have previously tested the injectors so I do not need to go any further except to test fuel pressures. It’s been 115-118 degrees and too hot to work in the garage. Next week doesn’t look much better I’m afraid. I am recording the process and will upload a video when I have something worth posting.
@@TonyLiveTV regarding airplaye there is a video from r107 schruber channel, a german guy , and it shows the level checking. Also Inova Hightech has a good video too. The CO screw might help too. I still think that the easiest think to do in order to see the whole image is to see how much fuel is getting every cylinder. Chapter 07.3-160. Also check 07.3-130
@@ionutboruga6015 I am aware of the video from Mercedes R107 Screwdriver. I subscribed to his channel. Mercedes Classics with Pierre Hedary has one and so does Fix your Mercedes which specializes in the KE-Jetronics. In a future video I will be discussing each of these videos and how the manual says to test and adjust the sensor plate. This can be found in chapters 07.3-245 and 07.3-130. That’s the first step. After testing, the sensor plate is sitting correctly and it is currently set a little rich. In the livestream many people said it was too lean and some suggested I turn the mixture screw. Turns out, it is rich according to measurements. Next I will test fuel delivery out of the distributor to injectors, cold start valve and eventually I will test fuel pressures. If this doesn’t solve the problem I will move on to testing electronic components like the EHA, the potentiometer and things like that. Eventually I will figure it out I’m sure.
@@TonyLiveTV i really want to see a smooth start. Hopefully i can be available for the livestream. Fingers crossed
@@ionutboruga6015 I probably won’t start it live, but I will certainly record it and share.
Interested to know if you have had any progress on getting the R107 running yet and what was the issue?.
@@user-gf4ud9mf7m it has been 115 to 118 degrees everyday since the livestream and the lows are above 90 degrees. It’s been too hot to actually work out there. I have tested a couple of things, but so far those tests were within limits. I am recording the steps I am taking to diagnose the problem. Currently I am testing the fuel distributor.
Hi tony Yesterday i make a new circle for A/c : compressor - Condenser - i wash all the circle before but after install every parts the A/c is good and cold but It turns on and off sometimes when it is cold and when it is hot. Is it because of the sensor? Where is the sensor and how many sensors are there in the air conditioning? Because I will replace them completely. I am tired. Another problem: The air outlet in the middle does not work. Is it from the air conditioning center inside the cabin
@@MariaQueenGames There is a pressure sensor on the receiver drier. If the pressure goes too low or too high, the a/c compressor will turn off to prevent damage. The temperature setting on the climate control system determines when the compressor engages as well. Faulty electrical components can cause the compressor to cycle improperly. There are other sensors like the temperature sensor that will send a signal to the auxiliary fan. If this is not working or your auxiliary fan is not working, it can cause the a/c to cycle. Good luck.
@@TonyLiveTV hi toni sorry to bother you you but today i replace both sensor in the receiver drier but still the compressor work 5 minutes and he off I checked the feron good now i think the temperature sensor in the meddle cabin i see behind the gloves box foem hose connected with temperature sensor old and exhaust what you think ? Please give me your opinion Thanks
@@MariaQueenGames I will assume that when you did this work you changed the receiver drier and you have the correct oil. I will also assume you pulled a vacuum below 500 microns and that you put in the correct amount of refrigerant. When I see an a/c compressor cycle on and off it is usually a pressure issue. Pressures change as the system works. You could possibly have a restriction in the condenser or evaporator. A restriction can cause incorrect pressures. There is another item in the loop called an expansion valve. If this is obstructed the low-side pressure will be lower than normal. This happens because the restricted valve limits the amount of refrigerant entering the evaporator, reducing the pressure in the low-pressure side of the system. The high-side pressure will be higher than normal. Since the refrigerant can't flow freely through the expansion valve, it causes a buildup of pressure on the high-pressure side of the system. If the expansion valve is stuck open the high pressure may be lower than normal because the refrigerant is allowed to flow too freely into the evaporator, reducing the resistance and hence lowering the pressure on the high side. The low pressure side will typically be higher than normal because the excess refrigerant entering the evaporator causes it to not drop in pressure as much as it should. This can lead to poor cooling performance. You might want to consider having a professional look at this. A good shop would evacuate all the refrigerant and pull a deep vacuum and then recharge it with the correct amount of refrigerant. They can also diagnose your entire a/c system while they are there. I was going to pull a vacuum on my system, but I found that my vacuum pump is not capable of pulling below 500 microns even though it is rated at 54 microns. Pulling below 500 microns is the only way you can be sure there is no moisture in the system. Moisture will destroy your a/c. The $120 vacuum pump I have can’t pull that deep.
Thanks tony
I removed the same fuel tank (560sl) without removing the upper vent tank and I also unplugged the fuel sender from trunk, took me 1 hour. You did a lot of extra unnecessary stuff
@@mrobjects I may have done a little more work, but it wasn’t a big deal. I wanted to keep the canister in an upright position and I didn’t want to remove the vent line so I separated it from the tank. It only took a minute or two. I still needed to remove the rubber hoses from the canister to the tank because I wanted to flush the tank and I didn’t want anything I flush to enter the canister. I don’t really see what I did was unnecessary stuff considering what I was doing.
@@TonyLiveTV tank is held down by 2 bolts on each side, and the main fuel hose below and the return hose below. It can slide under the vapor tank with some patience back and forth. Also the small 2 hoses on each side of the vapor tank and 1 middle hose. Easy. Takes an hour at most. Anything else is extra or unnecessary, it's like making an easy job more complex
@@mrobjects it took me about an hour the way I did it as well. With the canister removed it was even easier in my opinion. The entire process was fast and easy as I said in the video. I don’t know why people struggle replacing the strainer from under the vehicle, but they do. There was nothing complex in what I did trust me.
I hand polished my journals with sandpaper and shoelace from retired bowling shoes. BUt I never thought of how to do the lobes. Briliiant work.
@@mac1mike thanks!
Hi tony do use head gasket spray .all so engine head were large diameter bolt how much nm.fp .can u show thanks I learned a lot 👍
@@Like9-t I put in head gaskets dry. I have a playlist of everything of course: kzread.info/head/PLQAW1udK_cOjUxXdqszLITa5AS4ZxvmwD&si=CoMc3OTKNafRGSOK
Hey very nice, thanks for this! A few questions: is there a video where you took out the transmission? Do you feel there was a bit more complexity added re: disconnecting tranny lines, whereas it could all have remained intact were the engine and tranny kept together? Also, what kind of cart did you use to set the engine onto? Thanks!
@@PJ-qx5yt unfortunately I did not record the removal of the transmission. I have removed the transmission twice with the engine in the vehicle. To be honest. If I ever need to remove the transmission again I will remove the engine and transmission together. For me it was much simpler and faster. I installed the engine and transmission together and it was very easy. You can remove the transmission without removing the banjo lines, but I did a complete engine and transmission overhaul so these needed to be removed. The engine hoist and the engine stand are both from Harbor Freight. I purchased the 2 ton versions. Anything less will not work well.
Oh and if your heater core springs a leak, I know of a fantastic place that duplicates and builds them from scratch out of copper and brass with no damn plastic fitting such as are in this car's factory heater core.....OEM heater cores are extinct. If you find one (new) used are worthless, you need to become an archeologist....Mercedes has stopped producing so many parts......don't get me started on that rant.....
With your flow potentiometer did you remove it during your rebuild - I don't recall if you did. Is it the original? If it tests defective, you will need to replace it and there is a specific adjustment procedure for that. Incorrect adjustment of potentiometer can easily cause starting problems. I replaced mine since it was worn, the adjustement procedure is tedious but you as a DETAIL kinda of guy will have no problems.....
@@MrBobby3340 I did not remove, replace or test potentiometer.
Tuning diagnostic info on Duty Cycle and EHA amps. It is important to first ensure there are no problems before attempting this tune. In other words, are system and control pressures correct, are fuel pressure leak down correct? Perform a smoke test. Any leaks fix them. Yes I know this is a rebuild, but you would be surprised where you would find smoke test leaks..... With that said: Preparations: In case of California version the ECU may have to be switched over to duty cycle output. Check the service manual for instructions if necessary. Warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature. A 10-minute warm-up drive is better than letting the engine idle until it’s warm. Make sure that the engine does not heat up too much during the check / adjustment procedure. Pull off the vacuum line between the throttle valve and the regeneration valve of the fuel evaporation system at the regeneration valve and block it. Keep the A/C switched off. Check procedures: Connect the meter to the diagnostic coupling X11 port 3 and 2 (or ground) using MT471 to pin 3 With ignition switched on (engine not running) the duty cycle should be about 70% (California: 85%). If you’re using a voltmeter it should read 0.3 * Vp6 (California: 0.15 * Vp6) If in case of engine M116 / M117 the duty cycle is 100%: The installed ECU version doesn’t feature fault diagnosis via static duty cycle. Take off the air filter lid and check two other duty cycle values with ignition switched on (engine not running): With the throttle closed and the air sensor plate deflected the duty cycle should be about 10%. If it stays at 70% there may be a problem with the ‘closed signal’ of the throttle position sensor. With the throttle fully opened and the air sensor plate not deflected the duty cycle should be about 20%. If it only drops to 40% there’s a problem with the air flow potentiometer. Put the air filter lid back on for the duty cycle check with the engine running, which should be done with the air filter installed (and clean)! Start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate (it takes a moment until the o2-sensor reaches its operating temperature). If it doesn’t start to fluctuate after a while, the meter may be displaying a static error code (see ‘Static duty cycle’ further down). Increase the engine’s speed and monitor the meter while you keep the speed at about 2500 rpm. The reading should fluctuate! Record the values between which it fluctuates - it should be a range not much bigger than 4%, for instance: valley = 42%, peak = 46% (mean value = 44%). The fluctuation frequency (1 cycle = from ‘valley’ to ‘peak’ and back to ‘valley’) should be about 1 Hz (1 cycle per second). Then check the reading at idle. Again it should fluctuate, and again record the values between which it fluctuates. The fluctuation frequency should be about 0.5 Hz (1 cycle per 2 seconds). The mean value at idle should not differ by more than +/- 10% from the mean value at 2500 rpm. In case of engine M116 / M117 of model years ’86 & ‘87 the mean value at idle should be 5-15% higher than the mean value at 2500 rpm. Adjustment procedures: Remove the plug from the adjustment tower (if it’s still in there), so that the Allen wrench can be inserted. You can put a drop of oil into the adjustment tower if you like. Then start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate again. Please note: adjustments are always done at idle (not at the higher rev)! Then insert a 3 mm Allen wrench into the spring-loaded adjustment pin in the adjustment tower and carefully push it down. Don’t put too much pressure on it, otherwise the air sensor plate’s lever below the adjustment pin might be pushed down, which can easily stall the engine. With the Allen wrench engaged, turn the adjustment pin a little to and fro in order to let it snap into the actual adjustment srew, which is located in the air sensor plate’s lever. Turn the adjustment srew in small steps. Even tiny turns can change the duty cycle by several percent. Cw turns lower the duty cycle … ccw turns raise the duty cycle. After each step briefly rev the engine and let it settle for about 10 seconds before taking readings. I recommend to record the total adjustment angle. If you turn the adjustment srew too far the engine will stall. And if you can not remember how far and in which direction you have turned it, you may not get the engine restarted. Then the KE-Jetronic needs to be reset in order to get the engine started again, which is not very difficult, but unnecessary labor. After the adjustment to the desired value at idle, check the duty cycle at 2500 rpm and then again at idle. Readjust if the mean value difference between both engine speeds exceeds the above-named allowance.
@@MrBobby3340 WOW MrBobby! Thank you for all this. This is very helpful.
@@TonyLiveTV These instructions originated from a friend of mine, named Steve. He owns a 87 as well - original owner of his car. He is a retired nuclear engineer - it is safe to say he has an eye for detail!
Missed the stream but very glad to see you finally get to this point
@@jamesturner9651 I’m just about there. It dud start and the motor sounded great. Once I sort out the fuel problem I think it will be great.
adjust the mix screw, you change the height of the plunger maybe just 1mm when changed the seal just play 1/4 of turn with the 3mm screw it works opposite in is rich out is lean
@@alexschulz5305 hi Alex. Yes I agree it is fuel delivery. The plunger was stuck on the distributor earlier in the build. I had to remove the plunger and replace the o-ring. I have a video of that procedure. I want to put a gauge on there and see what I have, I also want to crack each injector line to make sure they are flowing. I said months ago that if there is a problem, it’s the fuel distributor. Otherwise it sounded great. No weird noises is a good thing.
Congratulations , sry I was working while streaming :)
Hi Tony! Congrats on getting this far. As you may remember I just finished rebuilding my upper and lower intakes as well as rebuilding fuel distributor. I also tuned using ampmeter for EHA as well as duty cycle meter to adjust to 50 percent duty cycle. Perform diagnostics to see where the problem is. As a suggestion, disconnect connector on EHA and try to start the car as a troubleshooting step. I have mine humming great after tuning. Do not touch the lambda adjustment screw without measuring duty cycle.
@@MrBobby3340 thanks MrBobby. Yes I remember your build. Thanks for the tip. I wish it was a bit cooler here. We will see 118 degree temps this coming week. The low doesn’t get below mid 90’s! Usually I would be in the mountains this time of year.
@@TonyLiveTV 118 ……that’s too dang hot!
Also, perform a smoke test. Vacuum leaks have a significant effect on duty cycle. Plug line at firewall drivers side going into car before you test
@@MrBobby3340 can you believe it! 118 here today and the low was like 96! It’s just too hot to go in the garage.
@@TonyLiveTV stay hydrated, helps with kidney stones……I no longer have a problem after taking that supplement I mentioned!
Sorry I missed the livestream. Too bad you couldn’t have kept it going when you were working the throttle. I think if you did, it would’ve stayed running. Just seems starved for fuel.
@@OB928 hey David. I hope once it pushes fuel through it will eventually stay running. I said months ago fuel would be a problem. It was still a success. I didn’t hear anything snap and it turned over nicely. And it did run for a few seconds
@@TonyLiveTV Yes! I’d call the rebuild a success! Way to go!!!
Timing is not right
Thanks for the suggestion. I will investigate this further. Everything should be at TDC when I started. This is a complete teardown and I set the timing. Of course there will be a follow up video of the investigation.
Missed your stream. All you had to do was to make the air/fuel mixture richer by turning 3mm hex adjustment screw on the top of the airflow meter clockwise until you get enough fuel coming to your injectors. Cheers!
Thanks buddy. I appreciate your suggestion. I agree it is fuel. This vehicle has been sitting for 16 years and I expected a problem with fuel delivery. Because of this I will properly test the pressures and I will make a follow up video.
Cool video gave me ideas. The flat block for sure on cranks with lines and you really need to flaten evenly. Maybe something stiffer than rubber like thicker leather for cams and cranks that are very good and just need a polish job. Thanks it is cool using drill speeding up the process. I went with 1000 and then 2000 on last one i did very slow might do it again to get a little bit better before polish. I will try mothers for mag aluminum on it wont.cut too much.
I’ve had several Lithotripsies. I’m a "chronic stoner". My incompetent new neurologist told me I don’t need to take Flomax before the procedure. Wish I didn’t listen to him. After the procedure the crushed up stones all wanted to get out at the same time… the pain was so bad I was hitting my head on the wall to knock myself out. Life-changing experience. Glad you’re better my friend and thanks for the awesome videos and explanations.
@@Carzan-k7z I know the pain you endured. Unbelievable how something so small can drop you. Tomorrow morning they remove the stent. I’m not looking forward to that. Now I need to find a competent Urologist. I wonder if that’s possible? I’m not going back to the doctor that did this procedure. They are the worst.
@@TonyLiveTV Best we can do is read some reviews and do our own research. I get on Facebook groups or reddit for every illness and read to see what other people's experiences are. For kidney stones I've learned to drink tons of water, take potassium, and Chanca Piedra suppliment (Whole World Botanicals liquid in perticular)
Hi Tony.....kidney stones...it makes my eyes water just thinking about the pain. At least a bit of hospital time will give you a chance to plan the road trip in what will be one of the best 560sl's on the road...Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars and I’m still suffering from this. The plan is to try and start the car live this Saturday, but I’m not sure I can. If I move I start to bleed! I can’t believe something as common as a kidney stone is so difficult for a urologist to deal with. I have had two painful procedures (under anesthesia) so far and they still can’t seem to remove it. Unbelievable incompetence I feel. I did have time to think and not a single thought of the Mercedes came to mind. You know if it runs great today, tomorrow is another day. Those tomorrows turn into rabbit holes and I am tired of following those. To be 100% honest. These old cars scare me. I will probably never drive it out of the garage. If it doesn’t start I don’t know what I will do.
Why didn't you cut the kick down solenoid wire right by the broken old connector and solder a new one at the end? I hate making splices, but yours was more. than professionally made.
@@MacusAvr I could have done it that way, but I chose farther back because the wire was hard, brittle and obviously broken. That wire was stiff and hard so I needed to gar far enough back to avoid the broken wire and burnt wire sheathing.
Tony, is it a big job to get to the air pump? I've been looking all day but can't find a video or any instructions on how get to the air pump. It looks impossible to get out without removing a lot of other things in there.
@@Carzan-k7z You can get to the air pump. I have another video on the air pump that might help you. 560SL - Installing The Air Pump & Bracket kzread.info/dash/bejne/dGaTwcFqdKu_pLw.html
@@TonyLiveTV Thanks Tony. Any idea if it's removed from the bottom or top? Looking under the car it seems impossible to get the pump through. But looks like it's possible from above if I remove the radioator?
@@Carzan-k7z I would remove it from the top. I don’t think you need to remove the radiator, but you will need to remove the fan, shroud and alternator. I would suggest you purchase new hoses for the air pump. That way you can cut the old one off to make it much easier to remove. It is quite difficult (was for me) to remove the hoses, but easy to install them. Good luck 🍀
@@TonyLiveTV got it. Thank you
Hi tony My car sl560 87 i have problem in my rocker arm and now i need to change this parts but the original is to expensive i see from febi is that good ?
@@MariaQueenGames yes I believe febi is ok. I know of plenty using febi without problems. Make surre you check the compensating elements for proper clearance. I have a video for that. 560SL - Adjusting Valve Clearance / Compensating Elements / Go-No-Go Gauge kzread.info/dash/bejne/iad_rcNpptbgkbA.html
@@TonyLiveTV thanks 🙏
I agree the health care system is so dysfunctional!
Thanks!
Thank you Roger. I really do appreciate it. First start live is coming soon! Unfortunately I got sick. After the follow up with my doctor I’ll be back out in the garage to finish this.
best of luck and get well soon Tony!!! - be sure to tell them to replace the crush washers. j/k lol.
Now that was funny 🤪
Ford based the 4.6 2v off this motor. I don’t see a lot of information about this at all. But take a look at the two motors side by side. They are identical.
Look at the LS. The Mercedes M117 engine is the base of many other engines.
Wow Mr Tony graet content! I've just moved my W124 3.0L 1988 from garage after 12 years and I have a problems :( We have a presure of gasoline before the distributor but there is none after. Do you knoe if there should be a 12V after ignition on this plug attached to distributor??
Fuel is pressurized by the fuel pumps. The fuel regulator determines how much fuel is deliver based on pressures. If that is working properly and you have constant fuel to the distributor, then something is likely wrong with the distributor. You need a Bosch fuel injection pressure gauge to diagnose the KE-Jetronics properly. All are simple tests, but you need the right tools. The biggest problem with these cars is the fuel delivery system. Most problems are because of dirty fuel and ethanol. I think the going rate to have your fuel distributor rebuilt and calibrated is about $1,000. These are not cheap vehicles to maintain.
@@TonyLiveTV I've changed both pumps and filter, and we've started the engine finally but there was a problem on one of cylinders (it worked probably only on 5 intead of 6) so probably i need to check injectors too. The next day it was impossible to start it again, ,and as I've mentioned You before we have checked the presure before distrubotor and it looked okey, but on the end of injector cords almost nothing. So is that electric plug on distributor a fuel regulator?? Or you mean the one near pumps??
@@michalkarol2959 I guess you are talking about the EHA valve. The regulator is mechanical and shiny metal (looks like a filter) and is attached to the same bracket that your incoming fuel line is attached to. You can try disconnecting the EHA and try starting. You can also test the EHA. The KE-Jetronics is simple, but complicated. It is simple for what it does, but it is very complicated on how it does it. To properly diagnose these systems you need a Bosch CIS test kit. You need to test both sides of the distributor to make sure the pressures are within specifications. These pressures are controlled by a diaphragm on the top of the distributor. I tested my fuel lines, filters and the injectors prior to installing so for me I know I have fuel flowing from the pumps to the distributor. Once at the distributor and ready to start like you are now, you kind of need a Bosch CIS test kit. This is the test kit I own: amzn.to/3xDHKpX
@@TonyLiveTV thank you very much
the Doctors work for Satan ....the Cops work for Satan .....now who do you think runs the world ? Jay.
Good channel ! Jay.
Oh my god tony, you had me rolling. I was laughing so hard. You are just so tony all the time. Love you buddy. So happy you've finally gotten this taken care of.
Hey there buddy. I would rather be at the lake with you! Thanks for watching till the end where what I think is the funny stuff is. I love the comment I made about doctors killing me in Thailand for 1/2 the cost. I need to hang out with you for a couple of hours. I make a funny comment by accident, but you genuinely make me laugh. I could use a good laugh.
@@TonyLiveTV yeah buddy! I'll be by tomorrow with some don julio.
Tony - best wishes for a fast recovery and take your time. Was wondering what happened so it is good to know. Thanks for being transparent with your situation. When having a scan last year in preparation for part of my colon being removed (ended up being a benign polyp), I was told I have a 3mm stone - they felt it wasn’t enough to worry about at this point. Take it easy and we’re all pullin’ for you !! ❤
That you Gerry. At first I was too sick to make a video. I'm glad I made it before I went back to the hospital. It's going to be a tough recovery I can tell. I had surgery today and they tell me it was a success. Tonight I have extreme pain as expected and I'm peeing Roma tomatoes. Is that a success? Hahaha The pain is unbelievable. Do what you can do for this 3mm stones. The doctor told me if I had small stones they can break them up with ultrasound. Much better way to go. When they get bug like mine (11mm) they can't break it that way because the broken pieces of that size will cut you up bad.
Sounds about right, since 2012 or before, our medical system has spiraled downward...obummer care, DEI and all that fun. The other day a new patient form asked me how I identify, it had at least six choices! I chose "other" TAX EXEMPT
Tony I wish you, to get absolutely good in your health. We like you get back with us, with your excellent videos! Best whises from Greece !