You should paint it in Meade Blue :D ... just to make ppl a bit confused
@AmatureAstronomer5 сағат бұрын
Interesting.
@dumpydalekobservatory7 сағат бұрын
I'd probably just wrap them as a safer bet to be honest mate as for colours I'm really clueless as to what to do them in, hope you're feeling better to mate take it easy & clear skies.
@Steve_The_Ignorant_Astronomer9 сағат бұрын
Steve , don't paint it , get them wrapped, I would worry about paint over spray or fumes ... Steve The Ignorant Astronomer.... That's my crappy little KZread channel..
@Steve_The_Ignorant_Astronomer8 сағат бұрын
Also ,I forgot to say glad your doing well.. looking forward to new videos
@gerardford11169 сағат бұрын
Glad you're feeling better Steven. Exciting times for you! I'm a multi bar telescope user myself, a 10" LX200R and an ES127, so I have the blue and white motif going. I'm a little bit partial to the blue, but it requires a little more time to cool down.
@StevenMorrisPhotography8 сағат бұрын
Thank you, still recovering but way better than what I was. That sounds like a nice setup you have there! Who would have thought colour has an impact in cool down times. If I paint it black it may never cool down lol
@Astro_Shed9 сағат бұрын
Hmmm, I would not paint them at all, TBH i think its a bad idea….personally I would paint the dew shields to match the scope…but that’s just me….🤷🏼♂
@StevenMorrisPhotography9 сағат бұрын
It’s a tough decision and the Celestron white does look good.
@Astro_Shed9 сағат бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography I just think it’s a massive thing to do, as there would be no going back, and I’m not sure you will ever get the good finish and be happy with them, it will make no difference to anything re imaging, and think it will look bad and ruin the asthetics of your rig, but that’s just me…
@StevenMorrisPhotography9 сағат бұрын
@Astro_Shed you bring up some very valid points
@Astro_Shed8 сағат бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography if you are really serious about the look, then a wrap would be better, maybe a carbon fibre wrap, this looks good and is removable, my mate did this to his Meade SCT and looks really good…
@dbakker721910 сағат бұрын
Well, I have been thinking the same for my dual rasa. Either wrapping it, or ... what about Musou Black paint? It will look as dark as it can be, no reflections whatsoever. I use it for my other scope, a Newtonian self built , for the inner side of the tube only. But it would like very different on the outside of the RASA tubes!
@StevenMorrisPhotography9 сағат бұрын
Haha wouldn’t that be something, Musou black telescope, you won’t know where it is in the dark. Didn’t think of a wrap.
@musiqueetmontagne10 сағат бұрын
White is always right.😂
@bikevatoart79293 күн бұрын
I bought one and was very confusing to use not being knowledgeable with the whole thing. It just sits in my garage.
@matforsbon7 күн бұрын
This "Telescope" has only an aperture of 24mm 1 inch yes you saw right 1 inch, and you will only get results with a Telescope that of a 1 inch of aperture.
@rayphillips81511 күн бұрын
Curious, does SynScan need to be launched prior to NINA everytime, or will NINA remember and just automatically connect?
@paiged18613 күн бұрын
What cable do you use to connect the SA to the AA+ please?
@tariqalkindi804514 күн бұрын
Great demo thanks
@ijontichy717923 күн бұрын
The center of the cluster looks a bit burned out, doesn't it?
@CDigata24 күн бұрын
Leg spreading, your knob and central shaft.. you can talk some Steve.. and dont be sticking your fingers in. I`ll be playing around with it a little bit tonight! 🥒
@SFUFOsSAАй бұрын
That's awesome.
@kfm6296Ай бұрын
Any chance of a dew shield that tries to minimize cable interference? Like those half moon pieces you can kind of route cables along. Love the concept just would prefer no spikes in my images as much as possible
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
It is something that I am trying to work on :)
@ThatOpalGuyАй бұрын
Glad you got to see it! I am working on my photos to make some content as well.
@thierrymartin8378Ай бұрын
This design had 10% of obstruction An optical designer will never design that way. First he will change cables for slim version for reducing vanes thickness. This is direct loss of star magnitude Then he will look at the design and find the true diagphramg position The ID shield at the front should not block the direct light , arcording Celestron choice of the size of the mirror . for memory 2 deg is equivalent to 1.5'' at 40'' This is a fast mirror much more than a refrector telescope which has a huge shield at the front... Why the RASA is built that way? because Celestron dosen't need to put a bigger Mirror to get a maximum field of light The Schmidt is nealrly at the focal plane , meaning half size of its Schmidt Camera in the 70th. A Schmidt camera is determiened by 3 numbers , the size of the Schmidt blade the size of the mirror anf the focal length which is half the size of the telescope!. Longer the distance of the mirror , bigger must be the mirror! . The RASA exists because new type of lenses like fluorite or ED are available on the market. Before it was military technology. Canon was the first with its Fluorite lens on the 300mm f2.8 in the 70th. Now there is no need to put a Schmidt blade at the radius of the mirror for big field pictures . Schmidt cameras or Slevogt telescopes are technology of the past. Now it is possible with some smart lenses at least 3 of them , one can gets the full field of light more than 2 degree of field ( 4 moons size) with stars of 3 at 5 microns of diameter despite of big obstruction and getting in bonus a flat field of few meters of radius. ideal for CCD sensors. I think the Rasa 8 is buily from the C 9.25 primary mirror. The Corrector reduces the final focus lenght to 16". Doesn't cost too much and the client had no idea what mean diffraction. Stars are 3 at 4 times the Airy spots but who cares..celestron is honnest to compare a picture done with its RASA and a true Professional Schmidt camera. Airy spot has nothing to do with telescope size but F/D . I mean Rasa could get even better image than the professional Schmidt camera in fact exept for power of resolution because this is derectly linked of the size of Schmidt blade . If someone understands this detail , he / she grabs the fact than the Schmidt blade is given the limitation of resolution not the focal length , The Shmidt blade should by no means be victime of obturation. . I understand about the idea of using 3D printing to build from bottom up pards to improve the support of the electronic and setup constants to the digital tratement of the picture . At least we know for certain the Schmidt blade will not break from the listed cameras compatible with the Rasa. Having slimmer cable alligned to a vane will reduce the impact of the vanes and the loss of light . My other concern is the diffraction spikes created by the printing pattern of the tube which must me removed and darkening to avoid ghost images on the Schmidt blade . I suggest Black Mars acrylic paint which is daker than musou for small angles like in astrnomy. Of course for photos made by objectives musou is better . When ideas look good in optical instrumentation is is wise to learn basic optics before...
@thesivrajАй бұрын
Where in SA did you take this Steven? Amazing Timelapse. ❤
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
I travelled to the Yorke Peninsula, a place called Honiton.
@paulatsydneyАй бұрын
Amazing, really loved that - thanks for recording it.
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
My pleasure, Glad you enjoyed it :) I should have let the time lapse last for longer, I was just too eager to see what I had captured!
@paulatsydneyАй бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography I'm just gutted - I'm in Sydney, and it was overcast here the whole time. Eveyrone is posting all this amazing photos and videos. Bah! Well, next time hopefully I'll see it. I think the video was just the right length, and the music really added to it.
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
I hope the next one is just as powerful and amazing that you can get all the images are we all have to suffer with clouds
@nikaxstrophotographyАй бұрын
We were so blessed to see this, last time I saw this so bright and so far North was in '89 yes I'm showing my age
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
We most certainly are, it's mind boggling how the impact of our star can effect planets so far away and create these amazing displays... we are all truly lucky to exsist. Age... what age ;)
@LogansAstroАй бұрын
Beautiful captures. It was certainly magical to witness.
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
Wasn't it just mate, saw your image on Instagram.... brilliant mate!
@eliotmess9723Ай бұрын
Image great... lose the music
@michaelw6173Ай бұрын
Unfortunately NE NSW was covered in cloud and rain, most of coastal NSW was the same. It did clear up by 11pm, last night, but the show was over. Had friends in Goondiwindi image it, heard that people were imaging at Uluru and in Townsville. Apparently this type of event and the latitudes it was seen at, was last recorded in 1932. So it is certainly a once in a lifetime experience.
@musiqueetmontagneАй бұрын
😮😮😮
@AstroNature_31Ай бұрын
Fantastic 🤩🤩🤩
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
Thanks 🤗
@deepskydiving8940Ай бұрын
Hello from rainy NSW😢
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
I hope it clears for you
@AmatureAstronomerАй бұрын
Pretty.
@dumpydalekobservatoryАй бұрын
Mate we had it here to right on my doorstep a sight we'd never thought we would ever see in our lifetimes, glad you guys got to see it to great timelapse clear skies!!
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
Yeah it’s just crazy and amazing all at the same time
@williemacdonald72Ай бұрын
Stunning timelapse big fella. I managed to get it last night here in Southern Scotland but it took me by surprise by appearing to the south of me. I was trying to do a holy grail into the aurora and was looking north west when out of the twilight the lights danced to the south west. I'm just stitching the different vids together the now, knackered but still buzzing.
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
That’s going to look amazing, I can’t wait to see it. You’ll have to show me when it’s done. It’s very hard not to stop a time lapse to view it lol
@williemacdonald72Ай бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography it's up on my channel now fella.
@StevenMorrisPhotographyАй бұрын
On it and subbed
@williemacdonald72Ай бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography cheers fella
@Dbentzjr2 ай бұрын
I was looking at Dwarf II as well as that ZWO Seestar and I ultimately ended up going for the Dwarf. Its a little rough around the edges on the software side of things, but overall I am extremely impressed with this little device. It sets up relatively easily in less than 5 minutes and you are off to take some amazing photos of space!!! Things I would like are a larger catalog of objects to look at, along with possibly things currently visible from my location, and I need the app improved so I don't have to keep entering the same settings each time I focus on a new target. Lastly, I believe the Dwarf should "park" itself before shutting down, like with the lenses down and lined up centered. It truly is a great little device overall!!!
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
I couldn’t agree more with the ideas, I had also put those ideas to Dwarf especially the parking of the lenses after a session or during the capture of dark frames. It wouldn’t be too difficult to have an internal shutter that closes off the sensor for dark frames. I too feel there is room for improvement on the software side of things. Still needs to be cleaned up a bit. Overall they are really good with suggestions if you choose to contact them I’m sure they will take note. Overall it’s a very easy and quick way to image on a budget. Congratulations on your purchase.
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
Recently purchased the RASA 8 and ZWO EAF. Thanks for this video, I dislike the sprawl as well. Do you have a video on how you configured the focusing in NINA. If not would you consider doing a video of your settings?
@jimmazurek55892 ай бұрын
You definitely have reached the compulsive-obsessive stage of our hobby. Incredible rig. Clear skies, from Chile.
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
I most certainly have lol. Thank you so much, clear skies to you too!
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
What filament do you use for printing these masks?
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
I use ASA these days for printing.
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography PLA or ABS?
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
You could use both
@Zisuen2 ай бұрын
Had a crack at it yesterday for the first time (Sony Alpha A7, Skymax 102, Star Adventurer GTi, guide scope and 120mm ZWO guide camera), I didn't have a clear view of Polaris so I pointed my mount north using a compass, the pointed the scope at a visible patch of sky, it did Polar Alignment, smiley face and all. But then after I pressed GoTo, it went in a completely wrong direction. Not sure what is wrong.... Any change you could make a workflow video showing your flow with the Star Adventurer GTi with the ASIAIR ?
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
Hi Steven, Love your videos, So much great information. I am setting up my new RASA 8 and wondered if you had a video with specific info on the configuration of the ZWO EAF? If not can I ask what your have your settings configured to in NINA?
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
How long did it take to print that beast? I am thinking of printing it out myself but I will be doing it at a community owned 3d printer at the library hence the question.
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
Hi mate, it takes me almost 200 hours to print this dew shield with all the internal structures and supports. When building the supports into the print for whatever the machine is and slicing software used you need to make sure you don’t place supports into the top internal section of the shield otherwise the slides for the windows won’t be able to operate fully.
@Astro-George2 ай бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography May have to go with the Celestron dew shield and a cable management piece that is separate for the star spikes. I'll let you know what I come up with and how it works.
@SaurabhShukla_222 ай бұрын
Hey, that's a beautiful video. Do you know what snap cable will work for Sony A7C (type c port). I don't seem to find any, and also people are saying that it doesn't work even if you find one.
@stephenc27382 ай бұрын
Load limit is given as 11 lbs but will it handle a 10lb refractor that is 24” long?
@AmatureAstronomer2 ай бұрын
I have been using my Sky-Watcher AZ GTi mount since I took up the hobby in August 2023, until last night. I could only take 10-20 total exposures before field rotation started eating my photo. Last night, I took my new Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTI mount out and found I could polar align using Sharp Cap and take 60 minute total exposures with no field rotation. So, it looks like I will be able to take total exposures of several hours now. I do not use guiding, but I only do 8 second exposures and stack as I go. Oh, and I just subscribed.
@StevenMorrisPhotography2 ай бұрын
Sounds like your having some excellent progress in your astrophotography. Keep getting that polar alignment spot on, collect lots of data and enjoy your hard work 😊
@Azreal343 ай бұрын
Dang. I want to buy and print this but my Bambu X1C only has a build volume of 256x256x256. I assume it won't work on that?
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
Height wise might be a problem.
@Azreal343 ай бұрын
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Well crap. Would you mind telling me the exact max height? I am tempted to buy it anyone and worse case use tinkercad to cut a bit out of the middle. Heck I am probably just going to go ahead and buy it anyway. Even if I can't print it I am supporting a creator in the community. :D
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
@Azreal34 the height is about 280mm, it’s a bit difficult if you were to cut it down to print because of the internal windows that slide up and down, you would then loose some of the strength if you want to attach a flat panel to the front. I’ll look into what I can do to reduce the dimensions so it can be printed on a small printer but the dovetail section might have to be removed.
@The_Vinceable3 ай бұрын
Nice one. The white looks slick and it works for NASA. So looks great on the RASA 😅
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
I never thought of that, NASA approved white lol
@will2see3 ай бұрын
it looks flimzy
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
It’s far from being flimsy.
@dumpydalekobservatory3 ай бұрын
Nice job mate I think I've lost count on how many revisions we're up to now lol, would love something like that for mine but still be able to rotate the camera which is a task in itself.
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
I agree, I think I’ve lost count with all the versions I have come up with. A camera rotator on a RASA would certainly be something and I’ve had some ideas on how it could be done, it’s just a serious amount of work to go into it that I just can’t give right now.
@Astro_Shed3 ай бұрын
Great video, can I ask why you printed this one in white, then had to paint…rather than in black as previous versions..? Great result all the same..👍🏻
@StevenMorrisPhotography3 ай бұрын
I couldn’t get a hold of any black ASA filament, I also thought white could look nice with the RASA. I’ll paint the outside I think too at some point.
Пікірлер
You should paint it in Meade Blue :D ... just to make ppl a bit confused
Interesting.
I'd probably just wrap them as a safer bet to be honest mate as for colours I'm really clueless as to what to do them in, hope you're feeling better to mate take it easy & clear skies.
Steve , don't paint it , get them wrapped, I would worry about paint over spray or fumes ... Steve The Ignorant Astronomer.... That's my crappy little KZread channel..
Also ,I forgot to say glad your doing well.. looking forward to new videos
Glad you're feeling better Steven. Exciting times for you! I'm a multi bar telescope user myself, a 10" LX200R and an ES127, so I have the blue and white motif going. I'm a little bit partial to the blue, but it requires a little more time to cool down.
Thank you, still recovering but way better than what I was. That sounds like a nice setup you have there! Who would have thought colour has an impact in cool down times. If I paint it black it may never cool down lol
Hmmm, I would not paint them at all, TBH i think its a bad idea….personally I would paint the dew shields to match the scope…but that’s just me….🤷🏼♂
It’s a tough decision and the Celestron white does look good.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography I just think it’s a massive thing to do, as there would be no going back, and I’m not sure you will ever get the good finish and be happy with them, it will make no difference to anything re imaging, and think it will look bad and ruin the asthetics of your rig, but that’s just me…
@Astro_Shed you bring up some very valid points
@@StevenMorrisPhotography if you are really serious about the look, then a wrap would be better, maybe a carbon fibre wrap, this looks good and is removable, my mate did this to his Meade SCT and looks really good…
Well, I have been thinking the same for my dual rasa. Either wrapping it, or ... what about Musou Black paint? It will look as dark as it can be, no reflections whatsoever. I use it for my other scope, a Newtonian self built , for the inner side of the tube only. But it would like very different on the outside of the RASA tubes!
Haha wouldn’t that be something, Musou black telescope, you won’t know where it is in the dark. Didn’t think of a wrap.
White is always right.😂
I bought one and was very confusing to use not being knowledgeable with the whole thing. It just sits in my garage.
This "Telescope" has only an aperture of 24mm 1 inch yes you saw right 1 inch, and you will only get results with a Telescope that of a 1 inch of aperture.
Curious, does SynScan need to be launched prior to NINA everytime, or will NINA remember and just automatically connect?
What cable do you use to connect the SA to the AA+ please?
Great demo thanks
The center of the cluster looks a bit burned out, doesn't it?
Leg spreading, your knob and central shaft.. you can talk some Steve.. and dont be sticking your fingers in. I`ll be playing around with it a little bit tonight! 🥒
That's awesome.
Any chance of a dew shield that tries to minimize cable interference? Like those half moon pieces you can kind of route cables along. Love the concept just would prefer no spikes in my images as much as possible
It is something that I am trying to work on :)
Glad you got to see it! I am working on my photos to make some content as well.
This design had 10% of obstruction An optical designer will never design that way. First he will change cables for slim version for reducing vanes thickness. This is direct loss of star magnitude Then he will look at the design and find the true diagphramg position The ID shield at the front should not block the direct light , arcording Celestron choice of the size of the mirror . for memory 2 deg is equivalent to 1.5'' at 40'' This is a fast mirror much more than a refrector telescope which has a huge shield at the front... Why the RASA is built that way? because Celestron dosen't need to put a bigger Mirror to get a maximum field of light The Schmidt is nealrly at the focal plane , meaning half size of its Schmidt Camera in the 70th. A Schmidt camera is determiened by 3 numbers , the size of the Schmidt blade the size of the mirror anf the focal length which is half the size of the telescope!. Longer the distance of the mirror , bigger must be the mirror! . The RASA exists because new type of lenses like fluorite or ED are available on the market. Before it was military technology. Canon was the first with its Fluorite lens on the 300mm f2.8 in the 70th. Now there is no need to put a Schmidt blade at the radius of the mirror for big field pictures . Schmidt cameras or Slevogt telescopes are technology of the past. Now it is possible with some smart lenses at least 3 of them , one can gets the full field of light more than 2 degree of field ( 4 moons size) with stars of 3 at 5 microns of diameter despite of big obstruction and getting in bonus a flat field of few meters of radius. ideal for CCD sensors. I think the Rasa 8 is buily from the C 9.25 primary mirror. The Corrector reduces the final focus lenght to 16". Doesn't cost too much and the client had no idea what mean diffraction. Stars are 3 at 4 times the Airy spots but who cares..celestron is honnest to compare a picture done with its RASA and a true Professional Schmidt camera. Airy spot has nothing to do with telescope size but F/D . I mean Rasa could get even better image than the professional Schmidt camera in fact exept for power of resolution because this is derectly linked of the size of Schmidt blade . If someone understands this detail , he / she grabs the fact than the Schmidt blade is given the limitation of resolution not the focal length , The Shmidt blade should by no means be victime of obturation. . I understand about the idea of using 3D printing to build from bottom up pards to improve the support of the electronic and setup constants to the digital tratement of the picture . At least we know for certain the Schmidt blade will not break from the listed cameras compatible with the Rasa. Having slimmer cable alligned to a vane will reduce the impact of the vanes and the loss of light . My other concern is the diffraction spikes created by the printing pattern of the tube which must me removed and darkening to avoid ghost images on the Schmidt blade . I suggest Black Mars acrylic paint which is daker than musou for small angles like in astrnomy. Of course for photos made by objectives musou is better . When ideas look good in optical instrumentation is is wise to learn basic optics before...
Where in SA did you take this Steven? Amazing Timelapse. ❤
I travelled to the Yorke Peninsula, a place called Honiton.
Amazing, really loved that - thanks for recording it.
My pleasure, Glad you enjoyed it :) I should have let the time lapse last for longer, I was just too eager to see what I had captured!
@@StevenMorrisPhotography I'm just gutted - I'm in Sydney, and it was overcast here the whole time. Eveyrone is posting all this amazing photos and videos. Bah! Well, next time hopefully I'll see it. I think the video was just the right length, and the music really added to it.
I hope the next one is just as powerful and amazing that you can get all the images are we all have to suffer with clouds
We were so blessed to see this, last time I saw this so bright and so far North was in '89 yes I'm showing my age
We most certainly are, it's mind boggling how the impact of our star can effect planets so far away and create these amazing displays... we are all truly lucky to exsist. Age... what age ;)
Beautiful captures. It was certainly magical to witness.
Wasn't it just mate, saw your image on Instagram.... brilliant mate!
Image great... lose the music
Unfortunately NE NSW was covered in cloud and rain, most of coastal NSW was the same. It did clear up by 11pm, last night, but the show was over. Had friends in Goondiwindi image it, heard that people were imaging at Uluru and in Townsville. Apparently this type of event and the latitudes it was seen at, was last recorded in 1932. So it is certainly a once in a lifetime experience.
😮😮😮
Fantastic 🤩🤩🤩
Thanks 🤗
Hello from rainy NSW😢
I hope it clears for you
Pretty.
Mate we had it here to right on my doorstep a sight we'd never thought we would ever see in our lifetimes, glad you guys got to see it to great timelapse clear skies!!
Yeah it’s just crazy and amazing all at the same time
Stunning timelapse big fella. I managed to get it last night here in Southern Scotland but it took me by surprise by appearing to the south of me. I was trying to do a holy grail into the aurora and was looking north west when out of the twilight the lights danced to the south west. I'm just stitching the different vids together the now, knackered but still buzzing.
That’s going to look amazing, I can’t wait to see it. You’ll have to show me when it’s done. It’s very hard not to stop a time lapse to view it lol
@@StevenMorrisPhotography it's up on my channel now fella.
On it and subbed
@@StevenMorrisPhotography cheers fella
I was looking at Dwarf II as well as that ZWO Seestar and I ultimately ended up going for the Dwarf. Its a little rough around the edges on the software side of things, but overall I am extremely impressed with this little device. It sets up relatively easily in less than 5 minutes and you are off to take some amazing photos of space!!! Things I would like are a larger catalog of objects to look at, along with possibly things currently visible from my location, and I need the app improved so I don't have to keep entering the same settings each time I focus on a new target. Lastly, I believe the Dwarf should "park" itself before shutting down, like with the lenses down and lined up centered. It truly is a great little device overall!!!
I couldn’t agree more with the ideas, I had also put those ideas to Dwarf especially the parking of the lenses after a session or during the capture of dark frames. It wouldn’t be too difficult to have an internal shutter that closes off the sensor for dark frames. I too feel there is room for improvement on the software side of things. Still needs to be cleaned up a bit. Overall they are really good with suggestions if you choose to contact them I’m sure they will take note. Overall it’s a very easy and quick way to image on a budget. Congratulations on your purchase.
Recently purchased the RASA 8 and ZWO EAF. Thanks for this video, I dislike the sprawl as well. Do you have a video on how you configured the focusing in NINA. If not would you consider doing a video of your settings?
You definitely have reached the compulsive-obsessive stage of our hobby. Incredible rig. Clear skies, from Chile.
I most certainly have lol. Thank you so much, clear skies to you too!
What filament do you use for printing these masks?
I use ASA these days for printing.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography PLA or ABS?
You could use both
Had a crack at it yesterday for the first time (Sony Alpha A7, Skymax 102, Star Adventurer GTi, guide scope and 120mm ZWO guide camera), I didn't have a clear view of Polaris so I pointed my mount north using a compass, the pointed the scope at a visible patch of sky, it did Polar Alignment, smiley face and all. But then after I pressed GoTo, it went in a completely wrong direction. Not sure what is wrong.... Any change you could make a workflow video showing your flow with the Star Adventurer GTi with the ASIAIR ?
Hi Steven, Love your videos, So much great information. I am setting up my new RASA 8 and wondered if you had a video with specific info on the configuration of the ZWO EAF? If not can I ask what your have your settings configured to in NINA?
How long did it take to print that beast? I am thinking of printing it out myself but I will be doing it at a community owned 3d printer at the library hence the question.
Hi mate, it takes me almost 200 hours to print this dew shield with all the internal structures and supports. When building the supports into the print for whatever the machine is and slicing software used you need to make sure you don’t place supports into the top internal section of the shield otherwise the slides for the windows won’t be able to operate fully.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography May have to go with the Celestron dew shield and a cable management piece that is separate for the star spikes. I'll let you know what I come up with and how it works.
Hey, that's a beautiful video. Do you know what snap cable will work for Sony A7C (type c port). I don't seem to find any, and also people are saying that it doesn't work even if you find one.
Load limit is given as 11 lbs but will it handle a 10lb refractor that is 24” long?
I have been using my Sky-Watcher AZ GTi mount since I took up the hobby in August 2023, until last night. I could only take 10-20 total exposures before field rotation started eating my photo. Last night, I took my new Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTI mount out and found I could polar align using Sharp Cap and take 60 minute total exposures with no field rotation. So, it looks like I will be able to take total exposures of several hours now. I do not use guiding, but I only do 8 second exposures and stack as I go. Oh, and I just subscribed.
Sounds like your having some excellent progress in your astrophotography. Keep getting that polar alignment spot on, collect lots of data and enjoy your hard work 😊
Dang. I want to buy and print this but my Bambu X1C only has a build volume of 256x256x256. I assume it won't work on that?
Height wise might be a problem.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Well crap. Would you mind telling me the exact max height? I am tempted to buy it anyone and worse case use tinkercad to cut a bit out of the middle. Heck I am probably just going to go ahead and buy it anyway. Even if I can't print it I am supporting a creator in the community. :D
@Azreal34 the height is about 280mm, it’s a bit difficult if you were to cut it down to print because of the internal windows that slide up and down, you would then loose some of the strength if you want to attach a flat panel to the front. I’ll look into what I can do to reduce the dimensions so it can be printed on a small printer but the dovetail section might have to be removed.
Nice one. The white looks slick and it works for NASA. So looks great on the RASA 😅
I never thought of that, NASA approved white lol
it looks flimzy
It’s far from being flimsy.
Nice job mate I think I've lost count on how many revisions we're up to now lol, would love something like that for mine but still be able to rotate the camera which is a task in itself.
I agree, I think I’ve lost count with all the versions I have come up with. A camera rotator on a RASA would certainly be something and I’ve had some ideas on how it could be done, it’s just a serious amount of work to go into it that I just can’t give right now.
Great video, can I ask why you printed this one in white, then had to paint…rather than in black as previous versions..? Great result all the same..👍🏻
I couldn’t get a hold of any black ASA filament, I also thought white could look nice with the RASA. I’ll paint the outside I think too at some point.
Wonderful ❤