Car modification and repairs in my shed
I started this channel because I was in lockdown due to the COVID 19 pandemic going on. I had seen that people were bored after just a few days of being stuck at home but I had plenty to do so decided to share it.
This channel will mainly focus on car repairs and modification that I am doing on my own and sometimes other peoples vehicles. Hopefully I can get a few videos up during the lockdown period, unsure after it ends but will try to get one up every couple of weeks.
I welcome questions and feedback as when it comes to videos and KZread its all new to me so anything I can learn will be a bonus.
Cheers
Dustin
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G'day - I grew-up in PNG (Ukarumpa), which gave me a love for Landcruisers. I have a 40 and a 200, but I am NOT mechanical AT ALL. My clutch on the 40 is almost non-existent ... goes right to the floor. I replaced all the fluid, no change. Is the master cylinder the next best option for the trouble shooting? I know this video is 4 years old; hoping you're still watching the comments. Much appreciated (I now live an hour N or Philly, but was back in PNG and Australia with my family of 6 in 2019 ... they loved both places, as I do.
I've done this job a couple of times on my Mazda Lantis KF-ZE 2.0 V6... Here are a few tips from my experience: -Water pump bolts are easy to get off and on with a long flat-head placed flush against the pulley, if needed. -Definitely remove the Intake Manifold completely, it's not to difficult and it makes it much easier to do the rear cover gasket (disconnect fuel pump and run fuel rail dry). While you're under there, I'd recommend replacing the coolant bypass O-rings and hoses. -If you have rattly lifters, I'd recommend pulling the cams out and cleaning the lifters when you're this far into a job. They're a bit fiddly, but it can make a big difference to the NVH of the engine. Don't worry about valve interference, these engines definitely are non-interference! The cams align with marks on the rear of the cam gears, which face inwards. Following a proper cam loosing and tightening sequence to prevent damage. Lifter internals pull apart with a pair of pliers on the plunger lip, and twist and pull gently. Just be careful you don't lose the tiny internal parts. Pre fill them with clean oil before fitting. -Cam blanking caps and end caps leak oil on most of these after a while. Fresh genuine ones are cheap, and the end caps come of with a light tap. -I'd recommend using genuine Mazda valve cover gaskets and crush washers, and make sure to follow Mazdas sealant and torquing instructions. Mazda crush washers are a little pricy, but the gasket itself is fairly priced. From y experience, aftermarket ones love to leak. Over torquing will also guarantee a leak, or a broken cover. Guess how I know that! -Spin any idlers and the water pump impeller by hand a few revolutions before fitting, to ensure the bearings are good. It's no fun having to re-do all that work because of a bum idler. -Always replace the tensioner. It might technically be reusable, but at the cost you can get them. GMB ones are cheap enough, see Butler Auto Mart in NZ. It's not worth the risk, as I've seen even low KM, reused ones fail prematurely. -Don't apply any sealant to the water pump gasket. Some workshop manuals say to do it, but it's just another point of failure. Just make sure everything is clean and dry, and torqued it to the correct spec. -While you're in there, wouldn't hurt to replace the power steering suction hose. On the Lantis they are fiddly buggers to do when everything is in the way, and they're prone to leak and cause damage to near-by rubber bushings, steering rack and CV boots. Don't be alarmed if you notice that for the first few dozen to few hundred KM's, it there is a bit of whirring noise from the idlers, which sounds like a bad bearing. This is usually due to the belt being a bit over tensioned. The hydraulic tensioners aren't adjustable, but as the belt stretches slightly, and everything 'breaks-in', the noise SHOULD go away....
How does this end? No part 3?
Nope. Camera had a meltdown and died, corrupted the SD card so no part 3. It lived though. The manifold is actually back off and apart now to do the flaps. I'll put up a video on this when I get it done
@@dustinphillips3855 did you get to this part? Im going to be doing all this very soon.
Hi, I used to own this car. I have some history on this car and great pics. How can I contact the owner. Thanks
Hi guys, I need help I own a Mazda 323 v6 same engine as this ford , my timing belt broke we replaced it but now the engine turns but won’t ignite injectors are working I’m so puzzled
check distributor rotor position, TOP DEAD CENTER Cylinder 1 should match with sparkplug cable position cil. 1 at the rotor. Still no start check high voltage output which is integrated inside the distributor, they tend to break. You can check this if you have RPM showing in de dash, no rpm during cranking possible distributor HV module defective.
definitely check that ur timing marks ALL line up when at TDC including the distributers cam position...almost certain something is Off
I thank you guys from my heart , we resolved it and it was timing belt issues wasn’t matching
Many thanks for these 2 Part videos, very detailed & a very helpful insight👍🏻👍🏻 & will really help me in deciding wether to actually get one from that era (2007-2010)
❤ I would like to see the when you fix the oil leak and putting the oil gasket!
Timing cam
It's not an interference engine
how did you turn the engine around to close the rear valves for cleaning?
mate thank you so much for showing those oil drain holes at the front of the engine at the end of the valley. No I understand where that oil from the front of the engine is coming from.
I see a TE37 Corolla back there.
13:00 Holy Hell! That big bearing is halfway out of its seat! No wonder it had issues.
Im using mx3 kf v6
Ravi
What happened to this thing? Did you get the leaks sorted? I have the same car myself and it's SPRAYING oil and coolant from under it's belly. :D Will be going to the shop in spring, it's pretty low miles at 70k
Yea I did get it sorted. Camera just died and corrupted the last video of finishing it off. Flaps have started rattling in the intake now so will be coming off again soon. Coolant is a concern but there's plenty of plastic fittings to leak being an Audi
These helped a ton and it’s the one of the handful of s6 videos on KZread or the internet in general. I’ll have to make a video too. This community needs more content with the S6!
Como retirare las poleas de los árbol de levas
KZread / internet always complains these are impossible to work on… yes, not easy but there harder cars like V8 range rovers, many 12 Mercedes etc. everyone seems oblivious to the ease the front swings out the way in ‘service mode’
Ford = mazda 626
I noticed you said it is a wannabe Lamborghini engine, and it is actually an upgrade from that engine which was a five litre
S a ludos desde Monterrey el cerro de la silla el car es igual al 626 Mazda gracias por tus vídeos !!!
Nice got hatchback one v6 manual 400.000 kz.still humming solid motors i
What about it if it’s stuck in first gear and you are trying to put in nature
Hey Mate! Where in NZ are you based?
The condition of that 1st gear is either from horrible clutch adjustment or someone with no patience at intersections. My personal practice is to tickle the 2nd gear synchro before diving into 1st. Also, 1st is so granny, nobody in their right mind would (or could) downshift into it.
Hey dude I'm doin some trouble shooting on KZread ,I have a decent oil leak on my s6 V10 .thought it was my sump seal ,re sealed it an still leaking .pulled front off so I could gain better view of th front as I could see from underneath that it was coming from up above in th front somewhere.pulled off crank pulley ,seal was fine .turned engine over and boom there it was pissing out of a hole above th pulley and below th intake manifold ..I'm told it's a drainage hole for valley ..I'm about to remove th intake manifold to see where oil is coming from .can u give me any advice or an idea what I might be looking for please ? Much appreciated
Yea it's most likely from the oil filter housing gasket. The other thing that does leak though is the variable cam timing solenoid o-rings. You can do these without removing the manifold and I think the intake ones could potentially leak into the valley. Worth having a look before pulling the manifold anyway
Can some one customize the first gear on these transmissions by adding a syco 1st gear ????
Hello, Can you please provide details/photo of the tool used to turn the crankshaft. Thanks!!
hello. is that the original engine that you are removing?
Jesus i avae a same engine i cant imagine how much u cost him🤔🤔
Колата е прекрасна съчетание на лукс и мощ на пътя
@@emilsimov8955 yes I like my Audi s6 but dang is it a little tricky to maintain
Good interesting content, be good to see the conclusion
Great cars :)
Excuse me, I would like to ask, is there a way to buy the rear bumper? I'm from Taiwan through translation
You can buy a bumper from Japanese car parts center. It'll cost quite a bit to ship. Better finding one in Indonesia.
Thanks for making this vid. I'm right in the middle of this same project on my '58 bus (differential is on the other side on buses). Same discovery: 1st gear was abused. Amazingly, I was able to find a new old stock mainshaft today on Ebay, talk about luck! Hope you have the same. Cheers from Alaska 👍
I need to rebuild a 68 Autostick .... Do you know anyone
Is it in New Zealand?
And then no part 3, probably failed...
Nope it's going good. Camera died and lockdown ended so had to get back to real work unfortunately. Haven't done anything in my shed for the last year.... Moving workshops now but one day I'll get back into it, soon hopefully
Hi there. Will you be posting a video of putting it back together?
It's all on hold as we are going through massive changes at work, moving workshops and all sorts of other stuff that has taken me away from any projects. And I can't find a good input shaft... But I have got a couple of synchromesh gearboxes so might have s look at one of them and then fit that. Oh and I need a new camera, the other one died. But hopefully happening soon
Thanks for showing, and editing, in such a straightforward and honest way.
Aside from the carbon build up and the high chance of the intake braking, how reliable is this car? Looking to buy one as a 2nd fun car. Won't be putting a lot of miles on it
As I've heard. Aside from the carbonbuildup and intake, what I've heard it's very good quality and reliable. I a lot of S6 V10s here in Sweden where I am that run 250 000km, no problem. Often these problems with intakes etc is fixed by that milage. Also it seems to be a lot more "home-mechanic" fixable compared to RS6 where every small job requires engine-out. But I've never heard any real extreme issues, so I'm also looking to buy one for a daily when I've sold my RS6 C7 because S6 often has engine-heater for winterseason.
No major failing points, but parts are very expensive overall it's still very expensive to maintain if major items haven't been replaced by 120,000 miles (sensors, alternatir, starter, suspension, cv shafts, etc). Once all this is addressed, it's just chasing oil leaks and carbon cleaning. Is important to note, replacing breaks and tired can also be rather expensive. Driving this car as a daily usually wears down tires every year and they were like 1700 dollars for good Michelins on this car.
More of the S6 please! Want to see the fixing of oil leaking. I think its the same problem mine is having. Can you show the screws a little bit more in detail? How to go ahead with the filter case? Thanks 🤘🏻👍🏻😄
hi can you tell me about your v10 car because am going to buy one
Can the gearing be fixed using the same part?? I have the same issue.... How can I contact you??
Really nice video!! Thanks
were is reverse?
If you stop the video at 16:19 you'll see the two straight cut gears that form the first gear. As you can see they are not meshing. There's a set of intermediate gears in the other half of the cage that slides into those two gears when you engage reverse gear. If you stop the video at 14:09 you can see the pair of little intermediate gears that form the reverse gear.
Someone was drive it like a civic? Less work and cost to fit a 1960 > box
Second part ??? show how to fix that???
Need to find a good input shaft and first gear to fix which I have had no luck with. It's currently on hold
Cool vid i gotta do mine im positive my intake broke a few months ago . This car used to take of like ancock sucker even at 1/8 THROTTLE IT WOULD LAUNCH IT LOST A LOT OF GRUNT. i know my 02 sensor bank one sensor 1took a shit . I hope that one can be accessed without pulling the dam engine.
Walnut blasting is the best but cost money to buy all the bs
Want to sell the pontiac or the s6
Check the intake thats crucial