This channel is dedicated to sharing the repairs I do on discarded & neglected outdoor power equipment in hopes of helping and inspiring others to fix and not throw away.
Video posting schedule may vary and/or be inconsistent based on project equipment and time availability.
Please note that I do this as a hobby and I'm not a trained professional. The information shown in these videos is not intended to be used as formal instruction and/or a "How-To". Use all necessary safety precautions when attempting any repairs yourself.
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Did an Ariens mower with a Kohler a little bit ago... Wasn't starting, but ran on sauce.. So I just threw the carb thru the Ultrasonic cleaner, and poof... The AutoChoke was a fricken pain on the XT6 on that Ariens... I had to completely disassemble the thing. Honestly, I should have made a video of it for my channel, but ah well.. Next one. after the cleaning, the mower is a beast! Sounds fantastic too, and really smooth.. Was overall a very simple fix.. The autochoke wasn't assembled correctly, so it wasn't working anyway, and the carb wouldn't let the mower run, I tried with fuel, the main jet was plugged bad.
My guess he had an issue took it apart and got frustrated and gave up on it.
Great video!!
Sorry being late on this one, but great job on your initial educated guess fits! Where do you find the torque call-outs? KZreadr's are always saying "I can get the torque settings later" or "F it" lol. Problem is I can only find blade torques in the manual and nothing in the engine manual. Some tuber's are even saying there's a torque call-out for every bolt and nut. What's your take? BTW, I just got this model (w/ electric start) from my local mower shop in their so called "bone yard" area for $25! Everything's there and it turns over (no oil though). Can't wait to dissect it as soon as I get done rebuilding a hrm215 I got for $4! 😃😃 I'm wondering if they were going to attempt to part it out but later figured, screw it...?
Thanks! I can say via career experience that there is a max torque based on fastener capability, and then an assembly torque based on fastener application for pretty much any product out there. I've found that type of information is not available to people like us and is typically only available in the factory manufacturing/assembly process. So in most cases I can't find the mower-body assembly torques and will usually assemble it tightened "well" by hand, then try to find a torque for things I think are safety-critical after the fact. The engine-specific torques are typically in the engine shop manual that authorized dealers have and use, which has way more information than the basic use/care engine owner's manual they send with the mower. I think those who say they have the torque either invested in getting the right manufacturer documentation and looked it up, or are looking up the max torque via a general torque-tension chart using the fastener's size/type/grade. The risky part about the max torque route is those values do not take into account the application (i.e. steel bolt into plastic or aluminum threads requires lower torque than steel bolt into steel nut, etc) Great score on the $4 HRM215! What a random sale number lol
@@BackyardRepairs yeah, I just realized “the shop manual” ($40). I see why these mechanics forgo it 😆. Thank you on your follow up! The hrm is running. Just needed emulsifier/pilot jet cleaned (bowl was pristine surprisingly) and oil added. Now learning linkage for proper RPM setting. Just got a tachometer also
Got a hand me down, non-starting mower from a neighbor moving out. Runs good now! Thanks!
Great video just what I needed to fix my oiler . Suggestion please add a pdf manuals ,parts lists to your website would be a great help on chain saw
Please make a demonstration video with that weed eater.
I unfortunately don’t have the trimmer anymore to do a separate demo video but there is a brief demo of it working at the end of the video at about 18:36
@@BackyardRepairs You didn't have it anymore, what happened to it?
This one was a fix and flip project, so it was sold after I used it a few times to ensure no issues popped up. The equipment from my videos are primarily repairs on personal machines, repairs for neighbors, or fix and flips to sell. So after the video is done I don't typically have access to them again as it's either sold or returned to the owner.
Thanks for a great video i have just rebuilt my XL 2 automatic new piston etc but could you please give me the part number for the bar and chain
Appreciate it! The bar/chain combo I used was Oregon 27860 (12” bar, S48 chain). It was a new old stock eBay buy at the time of filming, so I’m not sure the exact one will be easy to find
my curb fined needed a replacement carburetor, that was all
If you take a small steel wire you can run thru the whole in the tank and out the filler neck and you won't have to remove the tank. Nip a piece off the end of the line like from opposite tip down about 1/4in to otherside and push wire thru the line and pull back up or down thru the tank
Nice tip! I’ll have to give that a shot next time I work on one of these style trimmers
4:00 Info starts here.
2:25 *TWO tubes is spaghetti? SMH*
Lol yeah I guess if you just look at the line count it’s more of a complicated routing situation than spaghetti
Hi thanks for the video! I just picked one up pretty cheap running, but I want to go over it like you did to ensure it's reliable!
You have an amazing array of tools! I would have chucked the whole project in by the slide hammer time as a lost cause due to my skill level. Personally I don’t think the mower is worth the effort. Excellent video though and excellent teaching on your part!!
Appreciate it! All that stuff is conveniently around from working on my old Jeep otherwise I'd likely have given up on this one as well lol
First of all, that small tube thats in the oil tank is a Sintered brass tube. That means the tube is pourous. The idea is that when you shut the saw off, the pressure in the tank is bled off through the Sintered tube back in to the crankcase otherwise the pressure will continue to push oil out until the pressure is bled off. There needs to be about 1/8" between the end of the Tygon tube and the end of the duckbill. Second, you have the air filter assembled wrong. That metal grate goes in first then the foam sits on top of the metal grate. The way you have it assembled, the foam air filter is pushed down in to the butterfly so flip the metal grate and the foam air filter around.
thanks for the tips! I believe I do have that gap between the line and the duckbill on that tube, but I will have to double check. For the air filter, I guess the foam isn't retained by anything then if it's meant to be on the outside of the metal grate? I figured I didn't have it quite right as shown in the vid, but just having it loose in there didn't seem correct either. I'll have to revisit this one day as the foam contacting the butterfly could have been causing the running/tuning issues I was seeing as well
Watching your clip, I think I am seeing the carb / filter housing wobble a bit when you nudge it. If this is the case, the carb is loose in the intake port attached to the engine. There are two 4mm hex button head bolts on the bottom of the port assembly that have to be tightened so there is no movement of the carb / filter assy at all. If there is movement, you are likely sucking air in past the carb which will lean down your mixture. To tighten these bolts, you need to tear down the blower so you can lift the motor and fuel tank up enough to access the bolts. Please refer to this video supplied by "The Greasy Shop Rag" for the exact step by step on how to perform this procedure. It really saved my butt and a lot of money! kzread.info/dash/bejne/ppNquNegosmanps.html
thanks! I'll have to double check
Who did you purchase your parts from?
It was a mixture of eBay and Amazon
Its this that WD 40.is Penetrating oil/ water Displacemet / and degreaser. T evaporate and not really a Lubercant. Like Dry lube silacone . Maybe work better
thanks, my thought was that I would be reapplying light oil periodically as it dries out to avoid yard products from sticking. Maybe that graphite lubricant that's meant for door locks would have been perfect for this, but I did not think of it at the time
Did you use RTV on the valve cover?
Yes I ended up resealing it after running it a few times to make sure I didn’t need to get in there again to adjust valves
Excellent video. Well done!
If you do get it off I recommend luring it with Anti Seize before Reinstalling it Maybe heat it up and add wax from.a Birthday Candle
thanks! my go-to is usually the red high-temp bearing grease to act as an anti-seize, have not tried the birthday candle yet
It's looks like you have been watching James Gordon Channel
thanks man i dont live with my dad and i hadda mow the lawn couldnt find a vid anywhere but u helped me thanks a lot🖤
I was diagnosing my blower earlier and decided to watch this video afterwards. Mine had the exact issue with the filters and lines
I’m having the same shit going on !! Can’t figure it out !!!!
You can even lubercaite itcwithvWhite Spray Grease
That would work well, but I tried to avoid a lubricant that fertilizer etc would stick to which would cause more problems down the road
Instead of WD 40 used WD 40 Gel Lube
Did you use anti - seize on the Bushings
Just WD40 to lubricate
Heat up the sprocket and put a Birthday Candle after you remove the Heat letvthe wax seep in
What wuld you use to lube the Hieght Adhustment mechanism
How do you shatpen the Blades
Some people like to use a bench grinder but I like to use an angle grinder
I use an angle grinder with either a flap disc or a metal wheel depending on if the blade edge just needs a touch up or heavy work
All they need is a 2 buck carb kit and quart of 30W oil plus a 3.25 air filter Just like new 😊😊😊
How you clean it up Degrees or Power wash Or this wipe down With WD 40 Or pledge Furniture Polish
I don’t clean them all the same way each time and just wing it based on how dirty they are. If they’re bad I’ll use degreaser and loosen dirt with a brush then spray them down with regular hose pressure. Some just need a rinse and a wipe down/brush. I very rarely will use a pressure washer bc I don’t like blowing the labels off. I’ve never thought to use pledge, does that work well?
warm water in the ultra sonic works best when i use mine
from experience not all £20/$20 mowers are equal but some are more equal than other. great video btw 🙂
I definitely learned that on this one haha. In my area about 90% of the time it’s just a carb clean, small odds and ends, and regular service to get it going again
thats awesome.. i wish i could do this .. great job
Thanks!
Volume is low 😢
Thanks for the feedback, I’ve been working on getting a mic for future videos that should help
Wow
No don’t know how you could open it up with the outside so darn filthy
That's what was thinking
It's what's on the inside that counts guys :).. (duly noted though)
New one is 100 bucks, junk ones 5 bucks if it’s all there and looks good
Proper👍
Theses still sale fast in the used mower market 😊 I call them cemeteries mowers because they are light and reliable for small plots 😅
Where did you get your parts from ? I have this saw too, ran a bit but not long fuel out exhaust picked it up at a flea market for 10 bucks So Id like to try and save it, Im missing about as much as you are LOL
I got all my stuff through a mixture of eBay and Amazon for best pricing and actual availability. This was a fun little project saw but the cost definitely added up quick with everything that was missing lol. Good luck on yours!
🐭strikes again
Just worked on an identical carb. Didn't know the handle was obsolete. Of all the handles I had I was able to find 1 to replace that style.
Yeah I was surprised, but this one was a 2012-ish AYP build which are starting to be harder to find parts for. I'm sure I can cross it to a Craftsman part number that will fit and it'll just be black instead of grey
Nice flip! I feel like push mowers are significantly easier and less complicated to fix than weed whackers, leaf blowers and even bigger riding mowers. Have you noticed that too? Cheers!
Thanks! From my experience I think it depends on the manufacturer of the two-stroke equipment and how easily *they* want them to be repair/maintained for the price point they sell at. Some are vastly easier than others, sometimes to the point they're easier and quicker to fix than push mowers with the added bonus you can do everything from a bench instead of from the ground. Riding mowers are a whole other story lol, but I don't see a lot of those in my area.
I love videos like this. Just fascinating - even for a novice homeowner who doesn’t have a handy husband ! 😀
Glad you enjoyed it!
I need the parts you replaced. Where did you order them from. I thought I heard you say
I got them through Amazon. Checking quick It looks like they’re still available there
I have had the pick-up tube loose wouldnt suck up gas. I pull them out warm up the end with a lighter push it against a object to squash it and expand it a little re install. Now tight.
Great tip, thanks!
Omg what a find . Best mowers ever. I just bought 2 like that one for 999 . They are going away forever .